Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 43 of total 43 in this topic |
SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 28, 2016 - 06:01pm PT
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and we know who you are,tell Pete and gang that they're going to have about 12 hours tomorrow. Chance of convective showers tonight that will contain heavy and butt cold precip. Chance of showers tomorrow, SW winds, temp in the mid 50's. As the afternoon wears on to evening it's going to be game on. They'll be about 3 hours behind the bay area. Winter Storm warnings are up. Get down, but be safe about it eh?
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 28, 2016 - 06:02pm PT
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#DROPTHEBOOZEANDCLIMBTHROUGHTHENIGHT
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 28, 2016 - 06:09pm PT
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OP deleted it because it was so F'd up by F.
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2016 - 06:14pm PT
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Damn shame, I was settling in for the debate on the effects of alcohol on hypothermia between apogee and KingTut MD (not making fun, he actually plays an MD in real life).That, and it had the posts from PtPP and team...so in that regard, the deleting tantrum kind of sucks.
That said, I'll buy a six pack of Lagunitas IPA for the first team that names a Sierra climb "Drop the Booze and Climb through the Night".
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 28, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
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I'll throw in a 12 pack of Bud light Lime to sweeten the pot on that one.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 28, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
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Dibs on
"Eat Your Young"
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 28, 2016 - 06:43pm PT
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^^^
F*#k I'm dying here Dr.
Between you, Cragman, the glue fumes, and Bunchy humping my leg trying to get approval, I think I'm gonna piss my pants.
Could be all the booze welling up in my bladder. Better lead out now...
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 28, 2016 - 07:06pm PT
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But whiskey is alright since it warms you up.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 28, 2016 - 07:16pm PT
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Had a margarita. Crashing now. No booze on descent tomorrow.
Way to delete all our fun Dean! See you tomorrow. Jug Adams lines and come meet us. Channel 1 sub 10.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 28, 2016 - 07:19pm PT
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Dean meant well, Pttp. He just needs a thicker skin.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Oct 28, 2016 - 07:31pm PT
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Godspeed, Pete, and sweet dreams.
When Pete and Anita descend tomorrow, will they bring
everything down with them or just the essentials? What's the
usual routine under these circumstances?
Or maybe there is no usual routine? If so, any guesses?
Curious if they may leave a ton of stuff up there
during the retreat. Of course to be retrieved later.
Thanks.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Oct 28, 2016 - 07:40pm PT
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Safe journey tomorrow Pete
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 28, 2016 - 07:54pm PT
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Pete, any photos of "Nathan Kukathas' Grade 7 ledge and fly"?
Would like to hear more about that. Are you using a beta test, or are they commercially available now?
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SalNichols
Big Wall climber
Richmond, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2016 - 08:15pm PT
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[url="https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/6974036http://"]https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/6974036http://[/url]
A series of five experiments was undertaken in order to characterize the pharmacological effects of alcohol on the body temperature of the unrestrained rat. After a thermistor probe was fixed within the colon of each animal and its body temperature had stabilized, physiological saline. 2.0 g/kg or 4.0 g/kg of ethyl alcohol was given by intragastric gavage. A constant concentration of 20% was utilized with doses determined volumetrically according to the individual weight of the animal. The following observations were made: (1) At a laboratory room temperature of 22 degrees C, alcohol produced a dose-dependent decline in colonic temperature. This fall was enhanced when the rat was placed in a chamber with an ambient temperature of 8 degrees C, but reversed into a hyperthermic response when the ambient temperature of the rat was elevated to 36 degrees C. (2) If the rat was exposed for one hour to either a warm (36 degrees C) or cold (8 degrees C) ambient temperature beginning at the time of the intragastric gavage with alcohol, the body temperature of the animal correspondingly decreased or increased, respectively. The magnitude of the shift in the animal's colonic temperature depended solely on the dose of alcohol given, i.e., thermolability was enhanced to a greater extent by the r.0 g/kg dose than the 2.0 g/kg dose. Exposure of the rat to a high or low ambient temperature prior to intragastric gavage with alcohol also affected the body temperature displacement as well as the direction of change. (3) Following the 4.0 g/kg alcohol dose, the animal's colonic temperature could be controlled precisely by varying the ambient temperatures in the 26 degrees C--32 degrees C range of thermoneutrality; in fact, within limits, the rat's temperature could be held constant at any predetermined level. (4) Pretreatment of the animal with 6.0 ml of a 50% solution of glucose given subcutaneously failed to attenuate the poikilothermic effect of intragastric alcohol administered in a dose of 4.0 g/kg. (5) Comparisons of the effect on body temperature of equipotent doses of sodium pentobarbital (25 mg/kg), administered intraperitoneally, and alcohol (4.0 g/kg) given by gavage showed that either a high or low ambient temperature elevated or lowered the colonic temperature of the rat at an identical rate and magnitude. It is concluded that alcohol acts acutely as any other anesthetic agent to abolish all thermoregulatory control functions. Thus, the physiological mechanisms for the dissipation of body heat as well as those for heat production are incapacitated by the drug. Clearly, alcohol is a poikilothermic agent, and thus, the decline in body temperature observed in the animal typically kept at a laboratory room temperature of 20 degrees C--24 degrees C represents the result of a cold challenge and is not due to a postulated "hypothermic" effect of alcohol.
IOW,
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atchafalaya
Boulder climber
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Oct 28, 2016 - 10:28pm PT
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Another cragman "rescue" story for his book, and another bail from supertopo. It's a twofer.
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Oct 28, 2016 - 10:44pm PT
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Okay so far what I have gleaned from this thread is to not drink cold beer if you have a warm rat stuck up your azz.
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couchmaster
climber
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Oct 29, 2016 - 03:50am PT
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^^wut^^ I read that twice too. hmmm. Nevermind. Anyway, I'll toast (with my coffee cause it's not even 4 am yet) to a dry safe fun rap anyway. Best to all.
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LAhiker
Social climber
Los Angeles
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Oct 29, 2016 - 06:43am PT
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Pete, Anita, and friends, I hope you get down safely. Please let us know when y'all are down.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 29, 2016 - 06:49am PT
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Don't waste time trying to free the Dyno pitch on TR.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 29, 2016 - 06:55am PT
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Who would willingly eat Deleties?
They taste like wet cardboard.
Try Ban-Loops instead.
With bananas on top.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
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Oct 29, 2016 - 07:26am PT
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Thinking of you Anita! Love that hat!
I miss you. Next time you and Pete need to hit the desert for a little dry fun on mud towers. We'll leave the light on for ya!
And...don't "down bag" again! Not good wetsky!
Hugs to you and Pete.
Susan and Michael.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 29, 2016 - 07:40am PT
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Sometimes these threads are better than the climbs.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Oct 29, 2016 - 08:03am PT
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I'm taking my toys and going home.
Just like The Good Book says. Lollity.
And guys like F are why we can't have nice things.
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Jim Clipper
climber
from: forests to tree farms
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Oct 29, 2016 - 08:04am PT
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Never got to do a wall. Heard there can be partner drama, maybe more so when you have a few dozen virtual partners. Clinker for the win!
p.s. the sky is falling!, rap safe
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pb
Sport climber
Sonora Ca
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Oct 29, 2016 - 08:31am PT
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where's that confounded tower?
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Oct 29, 2016 - 08:48am PT
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and where is the expresso machine..?
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 29, 2016 - 10:00am PT
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We're all going to die! Well, if Hilary or Trump gets elected that is.. but I imagine Pete and Anita and Co. are going to be just fine.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 29, 2016 - 11:22am PT
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It's a good day for bailing!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 29, 2016 - 11:26am PT
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Looks like a gud day for climbing!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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Oct 29, 2016 - 11:40am PT
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DL in a similar area on El Cap back in 19-digity. We had lost communication with supertaco and were out of beer so we decided to press on.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Oct 29, 2016 - 01:05pm PT
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Best thread in a long time. Highlight was cragman calling Mike. Clueless lol. Wow.
Gyms didn't pussify climbing, but the Internet surely did.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Oct 29, 2016 - 01:07pm PT
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hey there say, anita and pete...
hugs to you both...
prayers for a good arrival down...
hey there say, to salnichols...
thanks for putting this up... i was wondering what
happened... and was trying to keep up here,
although, i could see the facebook, thankfully...
thanks, too, study:
i wondered why the other thread was gone...
:)
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Oct 29, 2016 - 01:43pm PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 29, 2016 - 04:50pm PT
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Are they down yet to re-stock their whine cellar?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Oct 29, 2016 - 07:08pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 30, 2016 - 08:40am PT
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I just had a delightful breakfast of young
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 30, 2016 - 09:33am PT
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We all like to express our identity, don't we?
Some just like to do it louder than others.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Hmmm... not sure if I am bumping a climbing thread!
In light of PTPP's coments about ST not being very climbing oriented these days... I'm re-posting my upthread question, from this fall when Pete, Anita, Tom and ? were on El Cap and bailed from the storm.
Hoping you'll see this now, Pete.
==
Pete, any photos of "Nathan Kukathas' Grade 7 ledge and fly"?
Would like to hear more about that. Are you using a beta test, or are they commercially available now?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oh geez, OK - I owe you guys some pics and stories, eh? All right, fair enough. I'll work on uploading some videos and pics.
All in all we cheated death, rapping down during a break in the weather on some dude's fixed lines all the way to the base. The rain began as we hit the deck.
When we came up the next morning to retrieve more gear, there was a full-on trout stream roaring down along the base of the Mescalito slab! It was good to have come down.....
Grade 7 ledge design is brilliant, although it needs some debugging in the suspension system. Fish has it right - simpler is better. Nathan's rain fly is the best I've ever used, far and away. I had been using an old TNF-A5 fly with a floor, and I have come to the conclusion that portaledge flies with floors are Big Wall Theory. The floorless fly is 10x easier to deploy, and every bit as warm and dry, if not better with no "lake" forming under the ledge like the A5 one does. Of course, Russ could have told you that one, too.
Stay tuned, though - big surprises in ledges and hauling technology coming to El Cap this spring. It's possible we will be rewriting the book.....
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Stay tuned, though - big surprises in ledges and hauling technology coming to El Cap this spring. It's possible we will be rewriting the book.....
"we", do you mean Grade 7? http://grade7equipment.ca/
Looking forward to hearing more.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Apr 28, 2017 - 08:05pm PT
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Bump because I just dropped a beer and I'm going climbing tomorrow...
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| Messages 1 - 43 of total 43 in this topic |
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