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Messages 1 - 65 of total 65 in this topic
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Oct 27, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
I bet Pete is prepared to spend the winter there if he has to.
the Fet

climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
Oct 27, 2016 - 05:50pm PT
Wishing them luck.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 27, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
hey there say...

saw a few updates... prayers and more, for pete and anita...

you are in my heart...


mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 27, 2016 - 06:22pm PT
And the long night begins.

Keeping you both in our thoughts & best wishes & prayers & so on.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 27, 2016 - 07:00pm PT
All good so far. Nathan s Grade 7 ledge and fly keeping us warm and dry. Margaritas and Petite Sirah. Wonder what tomorrow will bring?
the albatross

Gym climber
Flagstaff
Oct 27, 2016 - 07:32pm PT
Hope they are all ok. NWS is calling for 2-4" of rain in the next day then 8-14" of snow starting Sunday., From the comfort of my couch, Wino Tower looks to be an exposed spot to be in during a winter storm.

Good luck!
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
Oct 27, 2016 - 08:30pm PT
Great to hear about the rain. Safe climbs and retreats for all who need it.

BAd
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
Oct 27, 2016 - 08:40pm PT
A real Warren Harding wanna be....
i-b-goB

Social climber
Wise Acres
Oct 27, 2016 - 10:02pm PT

Member It's dark at night so be safe OK!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 27, 2016 - 10:21pm PT
Love the talk about portaledges and tents. Let's hear it for standing on
a 6" ledge for 24 hours in a blizzard with a bivy sack draped over you!
No brewing up hot water bottles to put in yer sleeping bag for that!
What's a sleeping bag? Do the Watusi all night long! Woot!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 27, 2016 - 10:36pm PT
Like Werner said, it's exposed there on Wino Tower.
In a big storm, there could be a lot of water funneled into the wide crack that forms the left side of the Bismark.
It might drain just right of them, or maybe right on top of them.
1-2 inches of rain forecast for tonight, and another 1-2 inches on Friday.
Then less Saturday, and 1-2 inches Sunday.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Oct 28, 2016 - 12:09am PT
hey there say... just keeping an eye on all this...

wow, just saw clint's...

interesting post, jim, :))

and radicals, :))


mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 28, 2016 - 01:05am PT
They should weather this one like it's a night in the park.

It's the next one that's gonna make 'em cry. :0)

Good to hear Pete is feeling so sassy.

Cheers, ya winos!
Da-Veed

Big Wall climber
Bigfork
Oct 28, 2016 - 07:45am PT

Looking kinda stormy!
10b4me

Mountain climber
Retired
Oct 28, 2016 - 07:50am PT
Anybody bother to check the forecast before they started?
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 28, 2016 - 07:55am PT
Drinking alcohol on a wall in even perfect conditions is a fool's mistake.

I know. Only time I did the beer was so warm I had to pour it out after two sips!
That was some serious trauma.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Oct 28, 2016 - 07:57am PT
It is dumping in L.A.

Stay safe piton pete..
SC seagoat

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab, A sailboat, or some time zone
Oct 28, 2016 - 09:03am PT
Safe thoughts for everyone.
I wonder if all the hardware in Anita's leg is aching???!!!
She's as tough as they come, that's for sure!



Susan
F

climber
away from the ground
Oct 28, 2016 - 09:18am PT
Cragman -

How is it you can post predictions like these :

Soft target extraordinaire.

May make Munich look like a good time.

Don't have a real good feeling about this one.

Two under Obama....the present one, and the big one that is imminent.


That have yet to come to fruition, and then post sh#t like this

I suggested an all-night lead to at least get to Harding Roof. That's 5 pitches.

It took them 3 days on the previous 5 pitches.

Recommended jettisoning the booze.....lightening the load....

Seriously?

You really think it's safer and more sane to lead through the night during a storm hauling a wagon train of sh#t, than to sit comfortably ensconced in a high tech portaledge designed for the very conditions they are experiencing, sipping a beer and waiting until the weather passes.

You are either some kind of prognostic super-genius, or just another armchair wannabe that should probably keep his mouth shut more often.

They are big kids, they'll be fine.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 28, 2016 - 09:30am PT
They are big kids, they'll be fine.

Boy, howdy!
F

climber
away from the ground
Oct 28, 2016 - 09:47am PT
Yeah, we're all entitled to our own opinion, even if they don't make any sense.
Maybe you could explain to me slowly, using very small words, how it would be safer for them to climb 5 pitches through the night in the middle of the storm than to wait for a lull and make an up or down decision? What experience have you had in life to enforce your opinion? Climbing 5 pitches through the night during a storm on El Cap carrying way too much crap? How'd that work out for you?
Hard to respect someone who dedicates their life to worshipping zombie saviors and imaginary friends in a rapturous afterlife that doesn't exist, that says the kind of weird stuff you do all the time.

But that just like my opinion, man.
F

climber
away from the ground
Oct 28, 2016 - 09:56am PT
Did your imaginary friend in the sky give you the exact times of the break in the storm while you were staring into your crystal ball? Or were they divined by the same intuition you used to predict the "soft target" nightmare in Rio?

Dumping the booze = bad form.

Dingus, shut your f*#king hot dog hole and go drive around and take pictures of sh#t.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Oct 28, 2016 - 10:02am PT
F, it's too late to take yer foot out of yer mouth. Nobody, in their right mind, would ever
accuse Cragman of not caring, let alone not knowing what is involved in any of this.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Oct 28, 2016 - 10:03am PT
Gotta love it, sh#t storm on El Cap and sh#t storm on ST-Who needs Netflix?
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Oct 28, 2016 - 10:27am PT
Lol trollhunter
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
Oct 28, 2016 - 10:28am PT
I thought F was that sleazy bastard Cosmics fake avatar...? Washing windows in the rain today..?
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Oct 28, 2016 - 10:31am PT
"Jettison the Alcohol?"

Let me send you my address....popcorn popping...
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 28, 2016 - 10:33am PT
Hey, Dean. Thanks for the updates and commo with the "party" on the wall.

And I'm sure you COULD care less about F's opinion, if you tried. :0)


Here is what Burr Snider wrote in Climbing Magazine in June 2012. It's part of an interview with the tough old bantam Batso "Ha-ha" Harding, who courted disaster several times and laughed at death doing so.

“It was a pretty good idea, the Bat tent,” Harding says. “I think I invented it, although there may have been others working on something like it at the time. It was designed to keep you out of the elements, but the first time we used it, on Half Dome, we discovered a basic flaw when a storm hit, which was that it held any water that came its way. We spent a couple of days swimming in the damn things, and nearly froze to death. Back to the drawing board.”

This, of course, was the famous attempt on the south face of Half Dome with Galen Rowell in 1968. In the annals of climbing literature, Harding’s account of his and Rowell’s “death bivouac” and eventual rescue ranks among the most thrilling. “I strongly believed that we weren’t going to survive on Half Dome,” he says. “I just had this feeling of resignation. I’ve read about dealing with likely death, and the sense of peace that comes, and even though I’m not religious, and I don’t pray up there, I had no problem with it. I was ready for it. We spent three days stuck in freezing rain and snow 750 feet from the top, and it puts you into this kind of induced shivering to try to keep yourself warm. After about 36 hours of it, you’re pretty exhausted. That’s the merciful thing about climbing – that you can get so goddamned tired you just don’t care if you die or not. It finally took a helicopter to get us off that face, and it was Royal Robbins who rappelled down to get us. I was so far gone I didn’t recognize him. Of course, hypothermia hadn’t been invented by then, so we didn’t even know we had it.”
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 28, 2016 - 11:12am PT
Wow. Rain is really coming down hard now again. Nathan Kukathas' Grade 7 ledge and fly absolutely bomber!

This was my 686th night on El Cap for me, and one of the wettest ever. Yet the Grade VII fly keeps us so dry, I did not bother even getting into my Goretex bivy sack. Truly amazing! Grade 7 has changed the entire paradigm of big wall climbing.

The rain stopped just long enough to step outside and make coffee. Might have to add some Maker's Mark later.

Ryan is under my old A5 TNF floored fly which fends off the worst but is a bit leaky. His bivy sack keeps him dry. I am now 100% convinced a fly with a floor is Big Wall Theory. Floorless for quick on off superior. Russell Walling knew this year's ago.

Valley Giants Tom dropped his sleeping bag early on and did not check the fit of his fly on his ledge. He is pretty wet but in good spirits and well insulated in his synthetic layers. A lesser man would be complaining but not Tom. Although he complained one night about where I stacked a rope.

Rain continues off and on. We're in runoff but rock a few pitches above appears drier. We are unlikely to move unless rain stops.

Adam Ondra's fixed lines are three pitches plumb below us so we have an escape route if necessary. It's true I offered to escorts Anita down the other day then return to my team. But she chose to remain.

So thanks for your concern. I just turned 57 and God willing this would be my 57th different route on El Cap. So in order to "climb my age" I will have to follow my usual strategy which is to bail to the summit!

More rain. Feeling thirsty. Is it Changeover Time yet?

Cheers from Wino Tower! Thanks for your concern all especially our friend Dean.

PtPP and Anita

P.s. Pat Aments comment had me laughing my ass off! Please do carry on!
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
Oct 28, 2016 - 11:26am PT
You're a hardman, Pete.

Can someone remind the rest of us where Wino Tower is
if it's not too much trouble?

And you're a trooper, Anita!

...

re: Petite Sirah

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Durif

I learn something new everyday. :)
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 28, 2016 - 11:33am PT
^^ :) ^^
High Fructose Corn Spirit

Gym climber
Oct 28, 2016 - 11:40am PT
Thanks, Cragman.

Wow.

So Pete and Anita, I imagine it's got to be pretty awesome, energizing and all,
at a time like this to have internet. Real 21st century.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Oct 28, 2016 - 11:54am PT
Thanks kigtut, pretty cool how the perspective changes as you scroll down in that article.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 28, 2016 - 12:50pm PT
The intensity of the rainfall and runoff now pouring down on us is concerning. Please keep an eye on us!
LAhiker

Social climber
Los Angeles
Oct 28, 2016 - 01:02pm PT
Pete, Anita, et al., I hope you stay safe and err on the side of caution in deciding what to do next.
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Oct 28, 2016 - 01:27pm PT
Nail biter!
10b4me

Mountain climber
Retired
Oct 28, 2016 - 01:41pm PT
In that photo really el cap tower is in the 'middle' and wino tower is unclear.

This below gives you a better view and shows the problem of runoff from

that's a really neat photo.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 28, 2016 - 01:53pm PT
Thanks for the updates, Pete, Anita and Dean.
I don't envy Tom with the dropped sleeping bag.
(Maybe a good chance to go for a "warmup lap" down the fixed lines to get it back?).
Forecast low is 45 tonight.
Forecast partly sunny Saturday, so maybe a chance to dry off if the runoff stops
(could be a "big if" since runoff seems to focus on Wino Tower or maybe just right of it).
Forecast partly sunny Monday and nicer next week.

BJ, the forecast you showed is for Tuolumne.
Here is the point forecast I use (east end of Valley floor):
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lat=37.74031329210266&lon=-119.5697021484375&site=hnx&smap=1&marine=0&unit=0&lg=en#.WBO5jS0rLcs
Studly

Trad climber
WA
Oct 28, 2016 - 01:56pm PT
Surprised at calling for Pete to beat his retreat meet. Hes more tenacious then the Plaidman, and that is saying something.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 28, 2016 - 02:21pm PT
The rescue dog did it.
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Oct 28, 2016 - 02:23pm PT
Wet down. Chitty

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Duck aka Deutsch Coast Guard? Ahem.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 28, 2016 - 02:29pm PT
Oh, get the damned stick out of yer butt.

Dean, everyone here is concerned.

I feel for Anita with her wet bag, and wish the other fellow hadn't dropped his.

You need to laugh in situations like this.

I don't give a damn if you agree or not.
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Oct 28, 2016 - 02:32pm PT
This crowd might know this. I've been googleplexed and don't know.

What's the old mountaineering film with the Sasquatch surprise?

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Oct 28, 2016 - 02:40pm PT
Down bag with bottom part wet, and 18 hours until the next possible sunshine is not fun.
At least there are spooning options if shivering sets in.

Back in 4/87 I was up on the Shield headwall in a portaledge bivvy.
We were dry, but the wind blowing up underneath the canvas surprised
me and made me wish I had a foam pad under me. The down on the
underside of my bag was compressed to nothing and it felt fairly cold.
My partner John Lockhart saved the day by lending me a second shirt
from his spare clothing. (I felt like an idiot for not bringing one myself).
Getting wet would have made it so much worse.

The advice we took from our mentor Charlie Schreck was that it was OK
to spend one wet/shivering night on a wall, but if it looks like a
second wet night, you go down if you can do so safely.
Otherwise the risk goes way up. We were lucky and never had that
first wet night, so didn't have to make the call.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 28, 2016 - 02:40pm PT
Hey all,

We're hanging in there for now but will obviously get the hell outa here and bail to Ondra's lines at the first available safe opportunity. Too wet now for sure but maybe tomorrow? Thanks for the message Silver.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 28, 2016 - 02:44pm PT
Been up here before on Octopussy during a storm. It was more comfortable once the rain turned to snow. So hopefully we can bail tomorrow.
F

climber
away from the ground
Oct 28, 2016 - 02:55pm PT
What would Jesus do?




DROP THE BOOZE AND CLIMB THROUGH THE NIGHT!!!!!
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Oct 28, 2016 - 03:00pm PT
Here is where Crag and I are on the same page. The Sierra storms have this nasty habit of freezing wet and windy conditions. The idea of rigging sequential rappels is really disconcerting. Freezing rainy windy conditions are the Sasquatch surprise in our low coastal range.
F

climber
away from the ground
Oct 28, 2016 - 03:02pm PT
Don't make me buy you a tshirt Flop master Flip.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Oct 28, 2016 - 03:02pm PT
Okay, Dean. I understand your perspective.

My climbing partner Mathis left the game for that reason.

Why does Jesus get so much negative feedback around the campfire? He's the dude with the good wine, right? It's a mystery.

Thanks again, Dean, for the cases of Mammoth at Facelift. Wish I'd had more conversation with you.

(I'd have sent you a PM, but you're not connected to the ST grid, such as it is.)
F

climber
away from the ground
Oct 28, 2016 - 03:09pm PT
Doing great Burcherma.

Just got back from a nice long swim. Saw a hammer head shark about 40-60 feet underneath me. Didn't become bait, so it's a pretty good day so far.

Started with some laughs via the experts on everything, some water time, and now a nice lunch of Kahlua pig and rice. Then I think I'm going to go hide from the heat and start working on some cabinet doors for a while?

How's your day going? Stuck in your cubicle, dreading the drive home, trying not to get caught by your boss posting 2/10s and looking at midget porn all day?

Brah
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Oct 28, 2016 - 03:10pm PT
You have a supply of alcohol, which is calories to generate heat, and lowered inhibitions to generate even more heat while sharing it. It seems like alcohol is really a good thing in this situation, as long as it is consumed along with water and not to the point of losing motor control or mental acuity.

Maybe time to gather all the troops and have a love-fest until the weather break, to make sure everyone makes it home alive?

[Click to View YouTube Video]
10b4me

Mountain climber
Retired
Oct 28, 2016 - 03:22pm PT
mistakes are more likely to be made when one is cold, wet, and possibly suffering from hypothermia.
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Oct 28, 2016 - 03:24pm PT
I wonder why they call it Wino Tower.
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Oct 28, 2016 - 03:28pm PT
"Alcohol vasodialates capillary beds in the skin leading to a false sense of warming that actually *accelerates core temperature loss*."


Well, sorta. That's what used to be thought was the case, anyway.

Alcohol does have a vasodilating effect, giving the skin the sensation of being warm due to somewhat increased shunting of blood to the skin, but the degree to which this causes core cooling is questionable.

The bigger, more relevant issue is the effect on judgement.
F

climber
away from the ground
Oct 28, 2016 - 03:38pm PT
You're losing your touch Burch.

Could you try a little harder, with all your free time you have being the boss of your "branch", and at least give me something I can award you a 4/10 at some point today?
And remember always celebrate your ignorance, and if the going gets tough...














#DROP THE BOOZE AND CLIMB THROUGH THE NIGHT!!!!
F

climber
away from the ground
Oct 28, 2016 - 03:48pm PT
It's pretty obvious that you hang out with a bunch of fools all day while you're grinding away in your "branch". Good luck with that.
Keep trying, that one was like 1.5/10. Your going down hill fast. Did you even warm up today?
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Oct 28, 2016 - 03:52pm PT
Weather is looking better from the webcams.

Hoping for a dry exit for Pete, Anita, Tom and anyone else up there, before the freeze.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Oct 28, 2016 - 04:03pm PT
I hope they don't have to eat their young up there.

All the best.
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Oct 28, 2016 - 04:23pm PT
Yeah, get a room.
A little brevity is fine but Cragman is part of the ground crew and these are crucial lines of communication. Or something. I think that surface water is flowing for the near future with periods of intensity and temperatures hovering around the grim zone. Still warm at 7000 but cooling.
F

climber
away from the ground
Oct 28, 2016 - 04:32pm PT


climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Oct 28, 2016 - 04:03pm PT
I hope they don't have to eat their young up there.

All the best.


7/10

The Dr. Showing you how it's done Butchy.

I'm gonna go back to watching glue dry on Sapele. It's more entertaining than Bunchy tell us about his "division".

Sorry to hijack the thread. Just remember, if it gets wet and scary.....


















Well. You know what to do.
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Oct 28, 2016 - 04:41pm PT
Best to the stormbound. we're all pulling for you.

no place for humor or banter? did you text Pete to let him know?


Learn to have some respect.

Crag- I know you 'couldn't care less (sic)" but...

With all due respect - and as you know that's precious little - IMO calling Mike. a clueless idiot makes you look like...well... a clueless idiot.

Earn Some Respect.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 28, 2016 - 04:46pm PT
Certainly we need to GTFO ASAP. Tom is wet but maintaining his spirits. Ryan pretty soaked but warm and giving Tom hot drink.

Anita and I are damp only from underside condensation although she is a bit cold. I offered her dry midweight polypropylene top and bottom. During the most torrential downpour on our Grade 7 fly, I was constantly wiping the fly with a sock having misplaced my microfiber cloth. It took over an hour of wiping to get enough water in the sock to squeeze out drops. Nathans Grade 7 fly is THAT good.

So Tom fixed a rope one pitch higher for Heinz Zak to shoot Adam so it's only two pulldown raps to reach his fixed lines thankfully.
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Oct 28, 2016 - 04:52pm PT
Keep the warm drink flowing! Best to those on the wall, esp TK!
F

climber
away from the ground
Oct 28, 2016 - 05:02pm PT
I was constantly wiping the fly with a sock having misplaced my microfiber cloth. It took over an hour of wiping to get enough water in the sock to squeeze out drops. Nathans Grade 7 fly is THAT good.

That's a bummer Pete. I've always found a sponge to be a great accessory in a tent or portaledge.
Good luck, stay safe.

Bunchy says...
Haha, man you really are rubbish. You crack me up with your obsessions, btw. My level of Avy education. Now you're jealous and won't shut up about my work. It's not becoming, little guy. To be fair, it would appear you have some redeeming quality - working with wood is a fine skill.

I'm not sure if you read the part where I said listening to you tell me about the fools you get to work with at your "division" is less entertaining than watching glue dry. Literally. I said that.

As for YOUR obsession with your level of avalanche education..... Well you are the only person that keeps bringing it up, over and over, so I'm not sure what that says about you.
How's your Gay-Jin neighbor doing? You guys been having some fun times on the strip lately?
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