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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 28, 2016 - 02:29pm PT
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Oh, get the damned stick out of yer butt.
Dean, everyone here is concerned.
I feel for Anita with her wet bag, and wish the other fellow hadn't dropped his.
You need to laugh in situations like this.
I don't give a damn if you agree or not.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Oct 28, 2016 - 02:32pm PT
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This crowd might know this. I've been googleplexed and don't know.
What's the old mountaineering film with the Sasquatch surprise?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 28, 2016 - 02:40pm PT
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Down bag with bottom part wet, and 18 hours until the next possible sunshine is not fun.
At least there are spooning options if shivering sets in.
Back in 4/87 I was up on the Shield headwall in a portaledge bivvy.
We were dry, but the wind blowing up underneath the canvas surprised
me and made me wish I had a foam pad under me. The down on the
underside of my bag was compressed to nothing and it felt fairly cold.
My partner John Lockhart saved the day by lending me a second shirt
from his spare clothing. (I felt like an idiot for not bringing one myself).
Getting wet would have made it so much worse.
The advice we took from our mentor Charlie Schreck was that it was OK
to spend one wet/shivering night on a wall, but if it looks like a
second wet night, you go down if you can do so safely.
Otherwise the risk goes way up. We were lucky and never had that
first wet night, so didn't have to make the call.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 28, 2016 - 02:40pm PT
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Hey all,
We're hanging in there for now but will obviously get the hell outa here and bail to Ondra's lines at the first available safe opportunity. Too wet now for sure but maybe tomorrow? Thanks for the message Silver.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 28, 2016 - 02:44pm PT
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Been up here before on Octopussy during a storm. It was more comfortable once the rain turned to snow. So hopefully we can bail tomorrow.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 28, 2016 - 02:55pm PT
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What would Jesus do?
DROP THE BOOZE AND CLIMB THROUGH THE NIGHT!!!!!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Oct 28, 2016 - 03:00pm PT
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Here is where Crag and I are on the same page. The Sierra storms have this nasty habit of freezing wet and windy conditions. The idea of rigging sequential rappels is really disconcerting. Freezing rainy windy conditions are the Sasquatch surprise in our low coastal range.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 28, 2016 - 03:02pm PT
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Don't make me buy you a tshirt Flop master Flip.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 28, 2016 - 03:02pm PT
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Okay, Dean. I understand your perspective.
My climbing partner Mathis left the game for that reason.
Why does Jesus get so much negative feedback around the campfire? He's the dude with the good wine, right? It's a mystery.
Thanks again, Dean, for the cases of Mammoth at Facelift. Wish I'd had more conversation with you.
(I'd have sent you a PM, but you're not connected to the ST grid, such as it is.)
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 28, 2016 - 03:09pm PT
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Doing great Burcherma.
Just got back from a nice long swim. Saw a hammer head shark about 40-60 feet underneath me. Didn't become bait, so it's a pretty good day so far.
Started with some laughs via the experts on everything, some water time, and now a nice lunch of Kahlua pig and rice. Then I think I'm going to go hide from the heat and start working on some cabinet doors for a while?
How's your day going? Stuck in your cubicle, dreading the drive home, trying not to get caught by your boss posting 2/10s and looking at midget porn all day?
Brah
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Oct 28, 2016 - 03:10pm PT
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You have a supply of alcohol, which is calories to generate heat, and lowered inhibitions to generate even more heat while sharing it. It seems like alcohol is really a good thing in this situation, as long as it is consumed along with water and not to the point of losing motor control or mental acuity.
Maybe time to gather all the troops and have a love-fest until the weather break, to make sure everyone makes it home alive?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Oct 28, 2016 - 03:22pm PT
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mistakes are more likely to be made when one is cold, wet, and possibly suffering from hypothermia.
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Oct 28, 2016 - 03:24pm PT
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I wonder why they call it Wino Tower.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 28, 2016 - 03:28pm PT
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"Alcohol vasodialates capillary beds in the skin leading to a false sense of warming that actually *accelerates core temperature loss*."
Well, sorta. That's what used to be thought was the case, anyway.
Alcohol does have a vasodilating effect, giving the skin the sensation of being warm due to somewhat increased shunting of blood to the skin, but the degree to which this causes core cooling is questionable.
The bigger, more relevant issue is the effect on judgement.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 28, 2016 - 03:38pm PT
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You're losing your touch Burch.
Could you try a little harder, with all your free time you have being the boss of your "branch", and at least give me something I can award you a 4/10 at some point today?
And remember always celebrate your ignorance, and if the going gets tough...
#DROP THE BOOZE AND CLIMB THROUGH THE NIGHT!!!!
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 28, 2016 - 03:48pm PT
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It's pretty obvious that you hang out with a bunch of fools all day while you're grinding away in your "branch". Good luck with that.
Keep trying, that one was like 1.5/10. Your going down hill fast. Did you even warm up today?
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 28, 2016 - 03:52pm PT
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Weather is looking better from the webcams.
Hoping for a dry exit for Pete, Anita, Tom and anyone else up there, before the freeze.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 28, 2016 - 04:03pm PT
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I hope they don't have to eat their young up there.
All the best.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Oct 28, 2016 - 04:23pm PT
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Yeah, get a room.
A little brevity is fine but Cragman is part of the ground crew and these are crucial lines of communication. Or something. I think that surface water is flowing for the near future with periods of intensity and temperatures hovering around the grim zone. Still warm at 7000 but cooling.
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