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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 28, 2016 - 09:47am PT
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Yeah, we're all entitled to our own opinion, even if they don't make any sense.
Maybe you could explain to me slowly, using very small words, how it would be safer for them to climb 5 pitches through the night in the middle of the storm than to wait for a lull and make an up or down decision? What experience have you had in life to enforce your opinion? Climbing 5 pitches through the night during a storm on El Cap carrying way too much crap? How'd that work out for you?
Hard to respect someone who dedicates their life to worshipping zombie saviors and imaginary friends in a rapturous afterlife that doesn't exist, that says the kind of weird stuff you do all the time.
But that just like my opinion, man.
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 28, 2016 - 09:56am PT
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Did your imaginary friend in the sky give you the exact times of the break in the storm while you were staring into your crystal ball? Or were they divined by the same intuition you used to predict the "soft target" nightmare in Rio?
Dumping the booze = bad form.
Dingus, shut your f*#king hot dog hole and go drive around and take pictures of sh#t.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 28, 2016 - 10:02am PT
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F, it's too late to take yer foot out of yer mouth. Nobody, in their right mind, would ever
accuse Cragman of not caring, let alone not knowing what is involved in any of this.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Oct 28, 2016 - 10:03am PT
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Gotta love it, sh#t storm on El Cap and sh#t storm on ST-Who needs Netflix?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Oct 28, 2016 - 10:27am PT
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Lol trollhunter
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Oct 28, 2016 - 10:28am PT
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I thought F was that sleazy bastard Cosmics fake avatar...? Washing windows in the rain today..?
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Oct 28, 2016 - 10:31am PT
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"Jettison the Alcohol?"
Let me send you my address....popcorn popping...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 28, 2016 - 10:33am PT
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Hey, Dean. Thanks for the updates and commo with the "party" on the wall.
And I'm sure you COULD care less about F's opinion, if you tried. :0)
Here is what Burr Snider wrote in Climbing Magazine in June 2012. It's part of an interview with the tough old bantam Batso "Ha-ha" Harding, who courted disaster several times and laughed at death doing so.
“It was a pretty good idea, the Bat tent,” Harding says. “I think I invented it, although there may have been others working on something like it at the time. It was designed to keep you out of the elements, but the first time we used it, on Half Dome, we discovered a basic flaw when a storm hit, which was that it held any water that came its way. We spent a couple of days swimming in the damn things, and nearly froze to death. Back to the drawing board.”
This, of course, was the famous attempt on the south face of Half Dome with Galen Rowell in 1968. In the annals of climbing literature, Harding’s account of his and Rowell’s “death bivouac” and eventual rescue ranks among the most thrilling. “I strongly believed that we weren’t going to survive on Half Dome,” he says. “I just had this feeling of resignation. I’ve read about dealing with likely death, and the sense of peace that comes, and even though I’m not religious, and I don’t pray up there, I had no problem with it. I was ready for it. We spent three days stuck in freezing rain and snow 750 feet from the top, and it puts you into this kind of induced shivering to try to keep yourself warm. After about 36 hours of it, you’re pretty exhausted. That’s the merciful thing about climbing – that you can get so goddamned tired you just don’t care if you die or not. It finally took a helicopter to get us off that face, and it was Royal Robbins who rappelled down to get us. I was so far gone I didn’t recognize him. Of course, hypothermia hadn’t been invented by then, so we didn’t even know we had it.”
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 28, 2016 - 11:12am PT
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Wow. Rain is really coming down hard now again. Nathan Kukathas' Grade 7 ledge and fly absolutely bomber!
This was my 686th night on El Cap for me, and one of the wettest ever. Yet the Grade VII fly keeps us so dry, I did not bother even getting into my Goretex bivy sack. Truly amazing! Grade 7 has changed the entire paradigm of big wall climbing.
The rain stopped just long enough to step outside and make coffee. Might have to add some Maker's Mark later.
Ryan is under my old A5 TNF floored fly which fends off the worst but is a bit leaky. His bivy sack keeps him dry. I am now 100% convinced a fly with a floor is Big Wall Theory. Floorless for quick on off superior. Russell Walling knew this year's ago.
Valley Giants Tom dropped his sleeping bag early on and did not check the fit of his fly on his ledge. He is pretty wet but in good spirits and well insulated in his synthetic layers. A lesser man would be complaining but not Tom. Although he complained one night about where I stacked a rope.
Rain continues off and on. We're in runoff but rock a few pitches above appears drier. We are unlikely to move unless rain stops.
Adam Ondra's fixed lines are three pitches plumb below us so we have an escape route if necessary. It's true I offered to escorts Anita down the other day then return to my team. But she chose to remain.
So thanks for your concern. I just turned 57 and God willing this would be my 57th different route on El Cap. So in order to "climb my age" I will have to follow my usual strategy which is to bail to the summit!
More rain. Feeling thirsty. Is it Changeover Time yet?
Cheers from Wino Tower! Thanks for your concern all especially our friend Dean.
PtPP and Anita
P.s. Pat Aments comment had me laughing my ass off! Please do carry on!
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Oct 28, 2016 - 11:40am PT
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Thanks, Cragman.
Wow.
So Pete and Anita, I imagine it's got to be pretty awesome, energizing and all,
at a time like this to have internet. Real 21st century.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Oct 28, 2016 - 11:54am PT
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Thanks kigtut, pretty cool how the perspective changes as you scroll down in that article.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 28, 2016 - 12:50pm PT
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The intensity of the rainfall and runoff now pouring down on us is concerning. Please keep an eye on us!
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LAhiker
Social climber
Los Angeles
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Oct 28, 2016 - 01:02pm PT
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Pete, Anita, et al., I hope you stay safe and err on the side of caution in deciding what to do next.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Oct 28, 2016 - 01:27pm PT
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Nail biter!
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Oct 28, 2016 - 01:41pm PT
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In that photo really el cap tower is in the 'middle' and wino tower is unclear.
This below gives you a better view and shows the problem of runoff from
that's a really neat photo.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Oct 28, 2016 - 01:56pm PT
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Surprised at calling for Pete to beat his retreat meet. Hes more tenacious then the Plaidman, and that is saying something.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 28, 2016 - 02:21pm PT
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The rescue dog did it.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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