Look out Yosemite: Ondra is coming!

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Sheets

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 1, 2016 - 11:10am PT
It's also worth watching Jorg Verhoeven trying to get the 2nd ascent of the Dihedral Wall. He's climbed the Nose and another El Cap route, I believe. Here's his latest update:

jorgverhoevenDihedral Wall is kicking my ass! This route is hard as nails and as technical as it gets, covering many hard pitches on polished and slippery rock. I did lots of weeding and brushing, since it hasn't seen much freeclimbing action. I also chose to fix ropes on the lower pitches, since they don't seem to bother anyone. If so, give me a shout!
@dustin.007 (shot the 📷) helped me out a bunch, and together with @katha_saurwein made it possible for me to work the route, before attempting a free push. Need to get stronger!

Dihedral Wall in itself seems impossible for me to comprehend climbing and it is probably the 3rd hardest route up El Cap.
couchmaster

climber
Nov 1, 2016 - 11:22am PT

Updated Sheridan Andersons great version, the fat woman to Ondra would be: "Did you do the changing corners pitch free or did you blow the onsight?" LOL

Molle

Boulder climber
Berlin
Nov 1, 2016 - 02:20pm PT

matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Nov 2, 2016 - 05:03pm PT
https://www.instagram.com/p/BMTQKGRhIZd/

Sent most of pitch 15 4th try last night. He skipped the first 5m as it was too wet. Got close a few times on top rope pitch 16 after that. Kudos to ondra for putting forth such effort.

Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 3, 2016 - 06:24am PT
https://www.facebook.com/blackdiamondequipment/photos/a.304377381604.193174.153989481604/10154561622446605/?type=3&theater


From BlackDiamond Facebook:

Update: Ondra Dials in Pitch 15 (5.14d) of the Dawn Wall

“After the period of rain and two days of rest, I went onto the wall with Pavel for three days. The plan was to send pitch 15 [5.14d] and 16 [5.14a] the first night. Hauling took us a while, so we got to our basecamp under the crux pitches in the dark. But it did not matter really. It was finally cold enough for pitch 15!

“Unfortunately the very beginning of the pitch was still wet after the big rain, so I had to skip the first 5 meters, which are not very difficult. Finally, on my fourth go I could send this ‘shortened’ pitch 15. Super excited about it! I worked hard on pitch 16 later that night. I got pretty close, trying it via the ‘Loop Pitch’ and tried to continue all the way into pitch 17 (5.14a), which makes sense to me. It is much harder—the whole pitch could be around 5.14c—but I think it is worth it. But let's see what I will think on the push;-)

Right now, we are resting on the portaledge this morning. I would like to work on the 4 pitches (around 5.13c-5.13d) to the Wino Tower tonight and tomorrow. Then we will go to the summit and complete our ground-up free/aid ascent. Cool style in my opinion to justify the use of fixed ropes.

“Life on the portaledge is just great. We’ve just had oatmeal for breakfast, and it is pleasant temperature to hang around in the sun and we even have solar panels to charge our phones. Life is pretty sweet up here. Even using Wag bags when necessary is not as bad as I thought.”

–BD Ambassador Adam Ondra, November 2, 2016.

Stay tuned for more exclusive coverage of Ondra’s Yosemite trip.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Nov 3, 2016 - 06:45am PT
good to note that BD is supporting leaving tat all over the valley for Team Ondra media coverage
chill

climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
Nov 3, 2016 - 11:22am PT
good to note that BD is supporting leaving tat all over the valley for Team Ondra media coverage

Yeah, this "tat all over the valley" completely ruins the natural experience to be had in Yo.

You jealous man?
brotherbbock

climber
Alta Loma, CA
Nov 3, 2016 - 12:02pm PT
Take your van elsewhere then Patrick Compton. Stay off the haterade also.
drewsky

climber
Seattle
Nov 3, 2016 - 12:08pm PT
"In my experience the very, very best are humble, secure in their ability and place in the scheme of things."

This. Well put, kingtut.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Nov 3, 2016 - 12:29pm PT
If I strung up Mescalito like the Dawn Wall, would that be cool?!

sure Ondra is glad to have ST ball-cuppers defending his honor!

proud work boys

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Nov 3, 2016 - 12:37pm PT

?
brotherbbock

climber
Alta Loma, CA
Nov 3, 2016 - 01:09pm PT
If I strung up Mescalito like the Dawn Wall, would that be cool?!

Yeah but how many people climb Mescalito vs. Dawn Wall?
brotherbbock

climber
Alta Loma, CA
Nov 3, 2016 - 01:19pm PT
They are largely the same route I think is his point.

10/4
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Nov 3, 2016 - 01:21pm PT
Good thing Tommy and Kevin never strung it up eh Patrick?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Nov 3, 2016 - 01:25pm PT
If I strung up Mescalito like the Dawn Wall, would that be cool?!

Part of the beauty of climbing is that the noobs are free to strung up popular routes and people who want to pass are free to do so as well. The freedom to spent as long as you find appropriate, without showing anyone a belay cards is nice. Any reasonable human trying to climb Mescalito now, will find a way. Or choose one of the other 50 worthy routes on that wall.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 3, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
Pete bailed but Ondra stayed up there and climbed all night. I thought sport climbers were weenies and aid climbers were the tough guys? Or maybe that's just on the internet.


Did Ondra have any booze to jettison?
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Belmont, California
Nov 3, 2016 - 01:37pm PT
Somebody needs to go do a big ultra-hard free project in the Garhwal Himalaya where there wouldn't be any crowds or socio-ethical overlap. No one would be able to argue much about a 5.15+ pitch at 20 grand.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Nov 3, 2016 - 01:47pm PT
Did Ondra have any booze to jettison?

I am imagining Yes!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 3, 2016 - 02:09pm PT
Alexey,
Slivovitz !
[Click to View YouTube Video]

Plum "wine" that will put hair on your chest!
.





Oplopanax,
I'm sure you're not that deep in the woods.
The bouncing Chezc was not on the wall during the stormy weather.
He says in his report it took them all day to jug & haul.


Mountain climber
The Deep Woods

Nov 3, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
Pete bailed but Ondra stayed up there and climbed all night. I thought sport climbers were weenies and aid climbers were the tough guys? Or maybe that's just on the internet. Did Ondra have any booze to jettison?

Dude ?! Kinda strange cheap shot! Anita5.14, PtPP, and the other two climbers were mid climb, days in- when the forecast came, they stayed right till the storm was in the Ditch.

kingtut, Social climber, carmel, ca. ,Nov 1, 2016 - 07:21pm PT
In my experience the very, very best are humble, secure in their ability and place in the scheme of things.
Yaniro, Price, Kauk, Edlinger, Hill, Sharma; Had nothing but the best experiences from that lot.
even that Peter Haan guy and Werner are nice,
of course, they are cut from different cloth of bad-assedry :P.

Ondra it seems too is solid.

*Its the next rung that is arrogant and obnoxious, probably from insecurity.*
Climbers who take that sort of shot are that " next rung" - second teir, if that!
Climbers that have a need to tear down the accomplishments of others, to build up their own self delusion . . .

Are you planning to Shepard three people of mixed skills,
the wrong gear for the season up a multi-day climb?
If so share that adventure. . .



Cutting edge 5.15 climbers ! So what anyone out there getting after it is plenty tough!
The two disciplines only compare in the way that they use similar gear. The fact is the highest end free climbing demands the overlapping of skills that a big wall aid climber has already rejected as aid avoids free climbing, mostly.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Nov 3, 2016 - 02:22pm PT
If you don't know anything about modern big wall free climbing it's best to guess.
Messages 161 - 180 of total 475 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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