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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Oct 30, 2016 - 02:38pm PT
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he red-pointed Changing corner from second try.
Hi Alexey! Where did you hear this? It's not clear from the usual sources what happened on this pitch.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Oct 30, 2016 - 04:10pm PT
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Hi Duncan, I took it from here:
Oct 25, 2016 - 07:17am PT
Update: Ondra Attempts to Onsight the Nose
“Yesterday was probably the longest climbing day of my life. We went with my dad up on The Nose, wanting to free it in a day. We started at first light and up to the Great Roof it was going well, onsighting all of the pitches in a few hours. But the Great Roof shut me down. I had a pretty good flash go, got the beta, lowered and gave it a second shot thinking I would fire it off easily, but I had not realized how important the feet are on this climb. After climbing so many pitches and taking no rest after my flash, they went super shaky and weak. I fell, gave it even a third go and fell in the end of the traverse. There was no point in giving it more tries and we just wanted to top out. Time to switch to night climbing and onsighting all of the pitches except for Changing Corner, topping out at midnight in the starting rain. Full alpine experience, as we did not find the descent route in the pissing rain, and had a wet and cold bivy in the little cave, before we finally got to the car at 9 a.m. The Nose is one of the most famous climbs in the world and I am super glad to have climbed it with my dad, even though not free. A big day out.”
—–BD Ambassador Adam Ondra, Oct. 24, 2016.
Now I see when re-read that there is no facts supporting what I say above, just my interpretation.
He mention that he tried Great Roof tree times and all tree times fall. He mention that he onsite all except of Changing corner, I honestly interpret this as he made it from second try, but now I see that it can be only my fantasy and I do not know if he even tried Changing corner again.
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Oct 31, 2016 - 05:04am PT
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Ondras climbing speaks for itself. If embellishment is required, he should at least be given the opportunity to do it himself.(However tempting it is for us in this forum.)
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 31, 2016 - 06:22am PT
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Ondras climbing speaks for itself.
Yup, Warren, Dean, Kevin and Tommy's as well. Hell, isn't that what Royal would say?
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Oct 31, 2016 - 09:11am PT
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Sounds like his line fixing needs work. Did he on-sight the two 12b and one 12d pitches down low? 14 grades below his hardest red point and 8 grades below his best on-sight.
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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Oct 31, 2016 - 09:23am PT
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Not sure, but he onsighted your mom.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Oct 31, 2016 - 10:02am PT
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Oct 25, 2016 - 07:17am PT
Update: Ondra Attempts to Onsight the Nose
“Yesterday was probably the longest climbing day of my life. We went with my dad up on The Nose, wanting to free it in a day. We started at first light and up to the Great Roof it was going well, onsighting all of the pitches in a few hours. But the Great Roof shut me down. I had a pretty good flash go, got the beta, lowered and gave it a second shot thinking I would fire it off easily, but I had not realized how important the feet are on this climb. After climbing so many pitches and taking no rest after my flash, they went super shaky and weak. I fell, gave it even a third go and fell in the end of the traverse. There was no point in giving it more tries and we just wanted to top out. Time to switch to night climbing and onsighting all of the pitches except for Changing Corner, topping out at midnight in the starting rain. Full alpine experience, as we did not find the descent route in the pissing rain, and had a wet and cold bivy in the little cave, before we finally got to the car at 9 a.m. The Nose is one of the most famous climbs in the world and I am super glad to have climbed it with my dad, even though not free. A big day out.”
—–BD Ambassador Adam Ondra, Oct. 24, 2016.
Now I see when re-read that there is no facts supporting what I say above, just my interpretation.
He mention that he tried Great Roof tree times and all tree times fall. He mention that he onsite all except of Changing corner, I honestly interpret this as he made it from second try, but now I see that it can be only my fantasy and I do not know if he even tried Changing corner again.
Alexey--not trying pick on you here, but since you write about your interpretation, let me note that that it's not clear if Ondra even tried Changing Corner's once. I have no idea if he did or didn't, or if he did how close he came, or anything else besides what's been written. If he just wanted to top out, as he said, it may have been perfectly reasonable for him to not have even attempted to free that pitch.
To all the blowhards who will strain to interpret my post as demeaning the great Ondra--I actually haven't seen anyone suggest that Ondra isn't the best or at least one of the best climbers in the world. That's obvious.
But it's also obvious that the information on this thread doesn't give much insight as to how close Ondra may have been to onsighting the Nose.
The grades everywhere feel the same to me, gym included. Yeah - styles, rock type, etc, differ and there are always a few sandbags and way over graded gimmes - whatever.
If you take that 10d sport route - if you can even call something that easy "sport" - now climb it with 20 lbs of gear, 19 lbs of which you don't need, add in some gumby clod-hopper shoes and maybe a pack full of candy bars and water - now stop every 3 feet and pick your nose for 5 minutes to simulate your gear placing prowess...
It would be a fun outing to see you do the 11s and 12s at my local gyms (BRC/Movement) and then walk up trad routes of the same grade in BoCan and Eldo. I'm a little skeptical.
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m.
Trad climber
UT
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Oct 31, 2016 - 10:25am PT
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In response to Alexey- I had also read- somewhere!- that Ondra had done the Changing Corners pitch on his second try. FWIW, planetmountain.com reports this feat. Cheers.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Oct 31, 2016 - 10:46am PT
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m, I don't know where you read that, but planetmount.com doesn't say that, at least not the part that I saw in a quick perusal.
Adam Ondra continues his Yosemite first trip at a relentless pace. A few days ago the Czech climber attempted a one day free ascent of The Nose but after starting at first light, his onsight attempt ground to a halt by the technical climbing on the Great Roof pitch. After three foiled attempts Ondra decided to continue upwards and, falling only once more on the famous Changing Corner pitch, he topped out at midnight in the rain with his father. http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/adam-ondra-yosemite-dawn-wall-update-2.html
The vagueness of the above may lead one to suspect that the author was doing a little "interpretation."
But regardless, it does not say that Ondra ever redpointed the Changing Corners pitch or even free climbed it. Maybe he did, maybe he didn't, but once again, there doesn't seem to be any credible info on that, at least not that I've seen.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Oct 31, 2016 - 11:03am PT
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My boyfriend's cousin's classmate said that she overheard her mom talking to the butcher who sold a flank steak to a guy that used to be married to the grand-daughter of a guy who was business partners with a dude who used to own a climbing gym, and that dude knew friends of Adam very well and he heard that Adam fired Changing Corner's on second try. Fact.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Oct 31, 2016 - 11:07am PT
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appreciate ondra's transparency regarding the process [from BD's facebook page]:
Complexity and difficulty of the whole climb is just shocking to me. I might have been too optimistic, but I definitely expected it to be easier. Every single pitch is so tricky and hard and yesterday on pitch 16 was the most frustrating day so far on the wall. It revealed the real difficulty of the whole climb and crucial importance of good conditions and skin. Hats off to Tommy and Kevin, who believed that the whole climb was possible before they free climbed. Without having the beta, some of the sections look just impossible. I have the advantage that I know that the climb is possible and that helps me to keep the faith that I might be able to do it as well. I am humbled and impressed by what Tommy and Kevin did!
sounds like he has a good fight on his hands...
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Oct 31, 2016 - 02:09pm PT
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Nutjob ^ - that just about sums up this thread! (-:
I bet the guys at planetmountain just read supertaco and quoted what happened only in Alexey's imagination (I actually doubt they wrote that). I referred to that earlier already. Adam is doing his thing being the strongest climber around, being really humble and completely transparent about what he's doing while crushing (almost) everything in sight. While the peanut gallery at the keyboards are trying to find ways to make everything sound way rader than it really is and sensationalize everything. It's a bit pathetic.
"easily hike his way, with a few falls, through the next two pitches"
"went up trying to onsight the Nose in a day"
"redpointed changing corners 2nd try"
Sure, he didn't onsight the Nose, but has anyone EVER done better on it or is it even reasonable to expect? Everyone who seriously tried it either got completely shut down or spent multiple weeks working just the changing corners pitch (Maybe Lynn Hill has done it a little faster. I don't know). Doing it first try in a day at 12d A0 onsighting all but 2 pitches! That's pretty awesome and a really proud achievement even for Adam!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Oct 31, 2016 - 04:41pm PT
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I appreciate Ondra's straightforward writing.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Oct 31, 2016 - 09:33pm PT
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... before ... try(ing) to climb the whole route in one single push, I need to ... have every single pitch super wired.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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The El Cap routes aren't like the hardest sport climbs. It is generally vertical with micro edges. The hardest sport routes overhang like crazy, and involve dynos to little mono's, but they are visible.
I would expect a sport climber to take a little while to get used to the type of climbing on the Dawn or even the Nose.
Most of the hardest sport routes are now in caves, or on very overhanging limestone. Anything vertical or less is called a slab. So El Cap is like a slab compared to most of the hardest sport routes.
Tommy always talked about the need for low temps and the proper shoe. Ondra mentioned a hold on the Dawn that he had to do at night. The skin would be so soft during the warmth of the day that it would rip the skin, and torn fingertips were a problem on the FA, if you recall.
I'm happy to see the home cliff give the best climber in the world at least a little pause, and a confirmation of the ratings, but I hope that he sends the Dawn, and then hop back on the Nose and free that.
The Nose really only has 2 cruxes: The Great Roof and the Changing Corners. The other spots aren't much for a person who can do 5.15.
A Nose on-sight would be remarkable. If he had spent a little time getting used to that type of climbing, I think he could have flashed it. Instead, he hopped right up there with little preparation.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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To me, Ondra's commentary verifies two things: The fiendish difficulty of the Dawn Wall, and the adventurous spirit, tenacity, amazing skill and enviable integrity of Adam Ondra. I've got nothing but respect for Tommy, Kevin, and now Adam, who have done such outstanding work on what must be one of the world's greatest modern rock climbs. What sometimes gets lost in here is that Adam was basically a crag/sport climber before visiting the valley, and simply jumping onto the Captain with his background, knowing little to nothing about the logistics, the king air up there, and the intricacies of the trad milieu, make his efforts almost unique.
I hope Adam continues to visit the valley till he puts his stamp on the place and nudges the bar even higher, as he surely will. As every Valley veteran knows, there is always a break-in period for every visiting climber, and anyone faulting Adam in this regards has simply never gone big in Yosemite.
Go Adam.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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While it's true that Ondra is best known for single pitch cutting edge sport routes, he's not by any means inexperienced with longer routes. From Wikipedia:
Mora Mora - Tsaranoro Atsimo (Madagascar) - 10 October 2010 - First free ascent
Bravo Les Filles - Tsaranoro Kelly (Madagascar) - 7 October 2010
Tough Enough Original - Karambony (Madagascar) - 4 October 2010 - First free ascent[54]
Tough Enough - Karambony (Madagascar) - 30 September 2010 - First free ascent[55]
Hotel Supramonte - Gole di Gorroppu (ITA) - 18 October 2008 - First onsight ascent[56]
Ali Baba - Paroi Derobée di Aiglun (FRA) - 2008 - Second ascent[57]
WoGü - Rätikon (SUI) - 26 July 2008 - First free ascent of Beat Kammerlander's route (1997)[58]
Zub za zub - Rätikon (SUI) - 29 July 2007 - First free ascent[59]
Silbergeier - Rätikon (SUI) - 27 July 2007[60]
These routes are up to 400m in length, with 5.13 and 5.14 pitches.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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I don't know how much crack climbing experience Adam had before getting on these routes which makes it all the more amazing and not caring that everyone is watching him on El Cap's plumbs, way to get after it!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Melding Largo and Mcreel's posts into one basically means Ondra is next level, and like the first ski run of the day, he's now warmed up and has the skills to take El Cap to the next level.
Onsights
Onsight in a day
Onsight speed records
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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If Ondra is falling in love with slab, perhaps on a rest day he can onsight Hall of Mirrors. The Mountain Project description calls it " possibly the best Slab climb in the world".
Nice light rack, no portaledge needed and it's the right season.
:-)
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