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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 16, 2016 - 03:45pm PT
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Up through the BD C4s, the solid shaft Friends were still the lightest.
(Might seem strange, but the aluminum solid shaft is lighter than the steel cable shaft).
I haven't weighed the BD Ultralight Camalots, but I've heard they finally are lighter than Friends.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Aug 16, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
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no one's mentioned the DMM cams? I'd bet they're in the running
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2016 - 05:15pm PT
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Stregors, if they were made anymore?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 16, 2016 - 05:19pm PT
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Light skinny rope makes a huge difference high on a pitch.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Aug 16, 2016 - 06:30pm PT
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For easy alpine climbing where the rope is there mostly for head gear and for the decent we use a single half rope.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2016 - 06:37pm PT
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Mammut Serenity gets you a 60m rated as a single rope for only 6.75lbs.
Any others better than that, rated as a single rope?
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Aug 17, 2016 - 10:44am PT
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Beal makes an 8.5mm that's rated as a single at 48g/m. Works out to 6.3lb for 60m.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Aug 17, 2016 - 10:49am PT
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we used 7.8mm 70m for stuff that required longer raps and 8.8mm sterling marathon for 60m . neither rated for use as a single but thankfully I don't drink the cool aid so I am able to make reasonable decisions based on experience.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
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thx Nathanael
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 17, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
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I knew there was a reason I haven't relegated my solid-shaft Friends to the museum bin, yet! (Paul Souza probably believes that my entire rack belongs in a museum, but that's a different story).
John
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Aug 17, 2016 - 03:12pm PT
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Old rack. BD ovals, 62 gms per
Newer rack. Petzl Spirits, 39 gms per
Latest rack. Petzl Ange, 34 gms per
So light enough for me to really notice.
But not while I'm actually climbing. Where I notice the weight difference is on the long uphill approaches. During aerobic work. That's why I love my new 8.7 mm single 60 meter rope.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Aug 17, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
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All weight in ounces.
Slings similar on the last 3..
Negligible in weight.
And surprisingly by comparison..
Couldn't find #9 Hex..
Time to check the smaller cams..😬
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2016 - 09:46pm PT
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Rollover ftw!
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Aug 17, 2016 - 10:40pm PT
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Current #2 Camalot 155 g / 5.47oz size 2.55"
Ultralight #2 Camalot 126 g / 4.44 oz size 2.55"
Current #8 Hexentric 93 g / 3.28 oz size 2.51" (widest passive wedge)
Current #11 Hexentric 170 g / 6 oz size 2.56" (widest passive cam)
There may be an argument for the lightest still being the hexes if you're looking at blocky rock or rock with variable cracks that is very amenable to passive wedge placements. The versatility of cam placements through their whole range makes an argument for them being lighter in less broken rock and rock with more uniform crack size.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Aug 18, 2016 - 05:25am PT
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Up through the BD C4s, the solid shaft Friends were still the lightest.
I live with a guy (in his early 30s no less) who climbs with the solid shaft friends for exactly this reason. I didn't believe him until he stuck one in my hand. It really is counterintuitive.
The Tech Friend is made using more steel than the Jardine Friend. Steel is much more dense than aluminum.
The steel cable stem of the Tech Friend is thicker than it needs to be because the flexible cable they use needs to be fat enough that it doesn't buckle when pulling the trigger bar. That cable stem could be about half the diameter (one fourth the weight) and still be strong enough. A different cable, like a 1x19, would be stiff enough to resist the trigger pull.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 18, 2016 - 06:14am PT
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So thank you from me too! I've never retired the original 'sticks' I have three pre US release with Brit. Made crude machine nuts that sprout sharp points. I keep an eye one them.
tradmanclimbs, Ice climber, Pomfert VT. Aug 17, 2016 - 10:49am PT
we used 7.8mm 70m for stuff that required longer raps and 8.8mm sterling marathon for 60m . neither rated for use as a single but thankfully I don't drink the cool aid so I am able to make reasonable decisions based on experience.
Spelling edit....
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Aug 18, 2016 - 06:40am PT
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Re: Serenity ropes. I have a 70m. Rope that by my calculations of 51 grams/meter should weigh 7.8 pounds but on my scale actually weighs 8.5 pounds. Still a light rope and I like it. Especially at the end of a 70 meter pitch. Just not quite as light as advertised.
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Matt's
climber
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Aug 18, 2016 - 08:57am PT
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they should really switch rope specifications to weight per meter, as opposed to diameter-- the diameter changes dramatically with use, and people only really care about the weight anyway...
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