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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 15, 2016 - 07:10pm PT
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Camalot Ultralights?
Metolius Ultralights?
with...
Metolius FS II biners?
Mammut Dyneema Slings and draws?
nuts? what about the lightest 'standard' collection of nuts?
lets see some stats on grams!!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2016 - 07:11pm PT
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and yes, a good coffee cleanse in the morning will lose more weight off your 'rack'...
WOOF!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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Aug 15, 2016 - 07:12pm PT
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a sack with two yuuuge nuts
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 15, 2016 - 07:37pm PT
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Al Ewe Minny Ummmm nutz!!!
Brass is too heavy
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Aug 15, 2016 - 07:41pm PT
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Pretty confident that the new BD ultralights will be your lightest "rack" based on weight to cover a given range. (Omega Link cams excluded)
Metolius UL master cams are lighter per cam, but require an extra cam or two to cover the whole range.
The Edelrid Nineteen G is the lightest biner at 19 grams.
Most companies don't publish the weights of their slings, so you'd have to go weigh them yourself.
At some point you might want to consider diet and exercise as an alternative.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Aug 16, 2016 - 07:31am PT
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Man those FS Mimi's are light but damn near toys in feel. Just got a C4 ultralight. Noticeable difference between the regular C4
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Aug 16, 2016 - 07:38am PT
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Totally sold on camp nanos. hung out in the tetons for a fair bit this summer and found the micro biners, slim rack, no chalk bag, climb in your approach shoes and BD ultra light couliar harness to be quite helpfull.. also lost 25lbs but that was mostly from lugging that ultra light gear around and puking from altitude sickness.....
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Aug 16, 2016 - 07:56am PT
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At some point you might want to consider diet and exercise as an alternative.
Classic! Got a chuckle out of me as I pinch way more than an inch on my growing belly. I'm being stubborn to not buy new pants though, using the uncomfortable fit for motivation to exercise.
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ThomasKeefer
Trad climber
San Diego
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Aug 16, 2016 - 09:17am PT
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hahahahah... Nut - we think along the same lines. Although it seems to be more a way to hold steady than make progress.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 16, 2016 - 09:28am PT
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More cowbell.
The only time I carry hexes is when I need some doubles of big pieces, usually for the anchors. They are way lighter than cams.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 16, 2016 - 09:29am PT
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One doesn't need a light rack.
One only needs to climb ......
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Aug 16, 2016 - 09:34am PT
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light rack for normal climbing is not nessicary. light rack for monster teton approaches is mandatory ;)
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Aug 16, 2016 - 10:20am PT
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One doesn't need a light rack.
One only needs to climb ......
Listen to WVB, the Yozenite Master, who has learned from earlier masters.
With respect to the wide crack horror show, Chuck Pratt said it this way:
Our technique is our protection
That rack weighs nothing on a scale, but weighs mightily on the mind.
At the other end of the spectrum, we have this:
My protection is my technique
That rack can weigh in at 2 to 3 pounds per cam.
Not very light, at all.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2016 - 11:14am PT
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My Pro is my technique! buahahahaha!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 16, 2016 - 12:29pm PT
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My Pro is my technique! buahahahaha!
For some of us oldtimers, that statement has particular relevance. I know I spent extra time developing my offwidth and squeeze chimney technique precisely because familiarity and technique offered the only protection of a leader.
I want to add on to the Fet's mention of Hexcentrics. Even after joining the century and making cams my first wide piece on the rack, I find I still encounter cracks where hexes actually work better -- and they certainly weigh less. Consequntly, I took my least ancient slung hexes and slung single runners through them. I carry three of them with me on most climbs. If I need them, they're there, and if I don't, I can still use the runner. And they increase the overall weight very little. Unfortunately, modern designs preclude that option now.
John
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2016 - 12:39pm PT
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I think he meant at the other end of the spectrum. a la direct aid/crack jumaring.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 16, 2016 - 02:20pm PT
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What Werner said.
The problem with a rack like that, which is pretty light to begin with, compared to a standard desert rack, is the average climber asking those questions tends to be too Lite, to get up anything with it.
Worrying about minutiae like that is distracting the climber from the real issue, going for it in the first place.
The difference between the weight of the heaviest possible version of a small rack,like that, and the heaviest, is insignificant when compared to the power of the force! I.e. It won't be the difference of sending, or not.
,
" don't be too impressed with this technological marvel you have created...."
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Aug 16, 2016 - 02:24pm PT
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" Climbers don't need that sh#t, but if they want to wall paper their garage with it, I'll sell it to them!" Yvonne Chouinard, circa 1987.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 16, 2016 - 02:51pm PT
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The best way to reduce weight is to read the pitch and only bring what you need. This is where you really get to see someone's skill and experience - or lack of it. The goal is to have nothing left on your harness/gear sling when you put your partner on belay. For the hardest leads, I'm running a tag line to bring up a pack and extra gear. For easier pitches, who cares.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Aug 16, 2016 - 03:04pm PT
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Nano biners, skinny runners, set of Totems, set of Dmm offsets. Good to go. Even a double rack don't weigh sh#t.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 16, 2016 - 03:45pm PT
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Up through the BD C4s, the solid shaft Friends were still the lightest.
(Might seem strange, but the aluminum solid shaft is lighter than the steel cable shaft).
I haven't weighed the BD Ultralight Camalots, but I've heard they finally are lighter than Friends.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Aug 16, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
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no one's mentioned the DMM cams? I'd bet they're in the running
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2016 - 05:15pm PT
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Stregors, if they were made anymore?
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 16, 2016 - 05:19pm PT
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Light skinny rope makes a huge difference high on a pitch.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Aug 16, 2016 - 06:30pm PT
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For easy alpine climbing where the rope is there mostly for head gear and for the decent we use a single half rope.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2016 - 06:37pm PT
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Mammut Serenity gets you a 60m rated as a single rope for only 6.75lbs.
Any others better than that, rated as a single rope?
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Aug 17, 2016 - 10:44am PT
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Beal makes an 8.5mm that's rated as a single at 48g/m. Works out to 6.3lb for 60m.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Aug 17, 2016 - 10:49am PT
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we used 7.8mm 70m for stuff that required longer raps and 8.8mm sterling marathon for 60m . neither rated for use as a single but thankfully I don't drink the cool aid so I am able to make reasonable decisions based on experience.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
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thx Nathanael
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 17, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
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I knew there was a reason I haven't relegated my solid-shaft Friends to the museum bin, yet! (Paul Souza probably believes that my entire rack belongs in a museum, but that's a different story).
John
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Aug 17, 2016 - 03:12pm PT
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Old rack. BD ovals, 62 gms per
Newer rack. Petzl Spirits, 39 gms per
Latest rack. Petzl Ange, 34 gms per
So light enough for me to really notice.
But not while I'm actually climbing. Where I notice the weight difference is on the long uphill approaches. During aerobic work. That's why I love my new 8.7 mm single 60 meter rope.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Aug 17, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
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All weight in ounces.
Slings similar on the last 3..
Negligible in weight.
And surprisingly by comparison..
Couldn't find #9 Hex..
Time to check the smaller cams..😬
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2016 - 09:46pm PT
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Rollover ftw!
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Aug 17, 2016 - 10:40pm PT
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Current #2 Camalot 155 g / 5.47oz size 2.55"
Ultralight #2 Camalot 126 g / 4.44 oz size 2.55"
Current #8 Hexentric 93 g / 3.28 oz size 2.51" (widest passive wedge)
Current #11 Hexentric 170 g / 6 oz size 2.56" (widest passive cam)
There may be an argument for the lightest still being the hexes if you're looking at blocky rock or rock with variable cracks that is very amenable to passive wedge placements. The versatility of cam placements through their whole range makes an argument for them being lighter in less broken rock and rock with more uniform crack size.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Aug 18, 2016 - 05:25am PT
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Up through the BD C4s, the solid shaft Friends were still the lightest.
I live with a guy (in his early 30s no less) who climbs with the solid shaft friends for exactly this reason. I didn't believe him until he stuck one in my hand. It really is counterintuitive.
The Tech Friend is made using more steel than the Jardine Friend. Steel is much more dense than aluminum.
The steel cable stem of the Tech Friend is thicker than it needs to be because the flexible cable they use needs to be fat enough that it doesn't buckle when pulling the trigger bar. That cable stem could be about half the diameter (one fourth the weight) and still be strong enough. A different cable, like a 1x19, would be stiff enough to resist the trigger pull.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 18, 2016 - 06:14am PT
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So thank you from me too! I've never retired the original 'sticks' I have three pre US release with Brit. Made crude machine nuts that sprout sharp points. I keep an eye one them.
tradmanclimbs, Ice climber, Pomfert VT. Aug 17, 2016 - 10:49am PT
we used 7.8mm 70m for stuff that required longer raps and 8.8mm sterling marathon for 60m . neither rated for use as a single but thankfully I don't drink the cool aid so I am able to make reasonable decisions based on experience.
Spelling edit....
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Aug 18, 2016 - 06:40am PT
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Re: Serenity ropes. I have a 70m. Rope that by my calculations of 51 grams/meter should weigh 7.8 pounds but on my scale actually weighs 8.5 pounds. Still a light rope and I like it. Especially at the end of a 70 meter pitch. Just not quite as light as advertised.
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Matt's
climber
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Aug 18, 2016 - 08:57am PT
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they should really switch rope specifications to weight per meter, as opposed to diameter-- the diameter changes dramatically with use, and people only really care about the weight anyway...
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| Messages 1 - 39 of total 39 in this topic |
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