Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2016 - 06:19pm PT
|
Agree, clifff. That upper descent of Whitney down the Mountaineers Route is tricky, especially when you're tired and there's snow/ice. It's been the scene of numerous accidents.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2016 - 06:38pm PT
|
I did a FA in the Olympic Mts where there was a whole pitch of 4th that
was almost vertical and it seemed to be 6'-8' dominos. I was afraid to
even slap some of them. I tried to channel Muhammed Ali and float like
a butterfly. Miraculously, just as I was running out of rope I got to
decent rock and was able to set up a belay.
|
|
pb
Sport climber
Sonora Ca
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
|
Mill Creek Jumpoff
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2016 - 08:42pm PT
|
Mountaineers route is definitely a sandbag at 3rd class! You fall you die, that's 4th class. I wasn't really worried about my self but I would not do it with someone above me on it. Scarier than any 4th class I've done including the approach to leaning tower.
|
|
Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2016 - 06:16am PT
|
That Willis Wall shot looks horrible, probably a winner. My vote--no photo--is for the traverse from Sahale Peak into Boston Basin in the N. Cascades. Actually, I think we turned back at the Class 3c section--horrifyingly loose, no way to anchor to the mtn., pure shite. This was supposed to be the quick and easy way to get over. NOT! We traversed back to Sahale Peak and enjoyed the views as the deep clouds in the valley boiled up and engulfed the crest. We hiked out in a steady rain. Ah, the Cascades.
BAd
Oh, and the easy NE ridge on Bear Creek Spire is mid-5th in places near the top. I think it's nearly impossible to keep it down to 4th class.
|
|
ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2016 - 06:53am PT
|
The walk/skooch across from the North summit to the south summit of Bugaboo Spire. In the rain. Or snow. Second time wasn't so bad.
Arne
|
|
Byran
climber
Half Dome Village
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2016 - 09:50am PT
|
Is the Bellygood Ledge 4th class, or only 3rd? Super exposed and yet somehow it's a little claustrophobic at the same time. Not really that scary compared to some other stuff rated 4th class, but it's one of the more awesome features out there which most people do without a rope. If you really want to make it scary, you could stand up and "Honnold" across it with your back to the wall.
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2016 - 09:58am PT
|
Wow, I've had experiences with a few of these.
Leaning Tower: first did it as a teen without thinking of it. Went back when I was older (and they had a fixed line up) and was thinking 'Holy crap...'
Black Tusk: I've bagged this but remember looking at the upper tower, with some tat slings hanging off of what looked like talus and remember thinking 'no thanks'.
|
|
Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2016 - 12:07pm PT
|
Sierra Ledge Rat:
I think that NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire was always rated 4th (like when I did it,) but it has been rerated to 5.5 now.
Maybe there is not much difference between those two....
|
|
renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2016 - 12:41pm PT
|
Northeast ridge of Mt Moran..
|
|
StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2016 - 01:01pm PT
|
Getting off Temple Crag can be a exciting depending on how much you rope up.
We watched in horror as one our friends started sliding on a traverse along the summit ridge, then miraculously came to a stop. The look on his face was priceless. Once he stabilized we tossed him a cord.
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2016 - 01:50pm PT
|
The Owen Spaulding route on the Grand Teton. Especially down climbing it. Unroped, one slip and that's it. Period.
Roper's definition of 4th class goes something like "experienced climbers won't need a belay but the consequences are serious if you fall"
I'm sure someone will look it up and correct me but that's the best definition I've read.
Of course a great deal depends upon weather conditions and climber fatigue.
I can't think of any rating that's more subjective than "4th class".
And lots of 3d class can quickly become 4th or even 5th in the dark or inclement weather or carrying a big load.
Cat Walk on Middle Cathedral? M'eh. However see the sentence above.
|
|
hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2016 - 01:56pm PT
|
leaning tower approach was crude
Those exit moves of the Royal arches--seriously? I had to cut loose and run down hill to the moss.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2016 - 01:57pm PT
|
The Owen Spaulding route on the Grand Teton
HaHaHa! Last time I did it I guided a complete n00b up (and down) in early
winter conditions: verglas over everything - crampons only, braj! I did
belay him, though. The wind was blowing so hard at the last rappel I had
to tie big azzed rocks to the ropes, otherwise they went straight up! Fun!
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2016 - 02:36pm PT
|
Descending Michael's ledge. Scary sh#t.
|
|
sowr
Trad climber
CA
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2016 - 02:40pm PT
|
Two that I can remember:
1) The East Face Route on Middle Palisade - I know it's supposed to be 3rd Class, but it scared the crap out of me and I've done a bunch of routes solo in the Sierra.
2) Had to retreat off Pingora once in the rain (NE Face) and those slabs at the bottom were horrifying.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2016 - 02:51pm PT
|
Journey home has some 4th class that felt like 5.7-8 and scary for 400ft at the start.
|
|
kew
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2016 - 05:32pm PT
|
I slipped and started sliding down those slabs at the base of NE face of Pingora far enough to get my attention. Pre-sunrise, dark-ish, sleepy. That woke me up.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
|
Ice Point in the Tetons. Not so bad on the way up...caught my partner on the downclimb when they slipped...yikes...
|
|
The Frog
Trad climber
West Allis WI
|
|
|
Jun 23, 2016 - 07:47pm PT
|
On my first trip to Yosemite in the 1980's, I helped haul gear to the base of the Leaning Tower. Tom (and the several others who added this one), I agree with your votes-there were times when I thought I was going to die on that approach. And I was leading 10's then.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!