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kew
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 16, 2016 - 11:12am PT
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My very first multi-pitch (as a very new climber) was What's My Line in Cochise Stronghold. The climb (with an A0 pendulum) goes at only 5.6 but I remember thinking the approach was way more terrifying than anything on the route (chimney out onto a ledge, maybe?).
Anyway, that formative experience years ago still makes me wary when I see "class 4" in the approach/descent.
I know "scary" is relative, but wondering--just in your personal opinion--what's some of the scariest 4th class out there? The approach to the sea king (Reef of Rocks?) crags on Mt Lemmon also comes to mind.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 16, 2016 - 11:18am PT
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Wet friction slabs at the top of the Royal Arches!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 16, 2016 - 11:19am PT
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Any of Norman Clyde's "class 4" routes (hell, even some of his class 3 routes had me pretty scared)
The NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire is class 4 but I swear I was free-soloing class 5 near the summit.
Just about any class 4 gets pretty frightening if you get off route. :)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 16, 2016 - 11:25am PT
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what SLR said, specifically as promulgated by Roper.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jun 16, 2016 - 11:34am PT
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First time I crossed Boulder Creek to climb Empor on Cob Rock, this is back before there was a Tyrolean, it was May with high water, I almost perished leaping to the final rock with all of my gear and rope on.
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 16, 2016 - 01:20pm PT
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Approach to Power Dome gets your attention.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 01:26pm PT
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How about scariest 3rd class?
Or is that 2nd class? I guess you can barely see the 300' ice cliff above.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
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The NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire is class 4 but I swear I was free-soloing class 5 near the summit.
+1
Also what Guido said. For that matter, the class 3 slab out of the Jungle can be rather frightening in the wets.
Now that I think of it, I got a rather rude surprise when I accepted at face value old guidebook's descriptions of fourth class (e.g. the first pitch of Lower Cathedral Spire). It just means that there either isn't protection, or the first ascent party didn't use it.
John
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 16, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
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How about scariest 3rd class? Willis Wall?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 02:04pm PT
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+2 on the NE Arete of BCS. I probably got off route on that but parts of it felt about 5.6 to me. The summit block felt casual in comparison.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 02:07pm PT
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Alex Honnold claimed he wasn't scared when he did it, but 4th-classing the RNWF of Half Dome would be a Depends moment for most people.
EDIT:
Oh, you meant, "Scariest section that is rated 4th class".
The final approach traverse to the WF Leaning Tower is kinda notorious, especially with a haul bag.
The approach to some of the Sentinel Rock routes, the ones left of the Flying Buttress, have been known to frighten and even kill people.
The Katwalk on MCR is supposedly an eye-opener.
The dike pitches on Snake Dike are rated 5.3R, but how are those pitches different from 4th class? You go from belay to belay with no pro in between. Those pitches are exhilarating, which is a subset of scary.
VVVVVVVVV
It always seems scarier climbing down, rather than up. That's why free soloing is such a stiff game.
I rapped (wearing a pig) down the 4th class approach to Lurking Fear after climbing Cosmos and rapping LF from Thanksgiving. My partner, and two other climbers were taken a bit aback, but sure enough, they hand-lined down the rope before I pulled it. As I recall, I did it Dulfersitz style. Wearing only polypro thermal underwear.
There is nothing wrong with using the equipment and tools that you brought with you for that specific purpose.
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kew
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2016 - 02:24pm PT
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What about that part of the descent just labeled "JUMP" in the guide to the Exorcist part of Hall of Horrors in Joshua Tree? The 'casual' leap across the chasm (that I will never ever do)--does that qualify as 4th class?
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Jun 16, 2016 - 02:48pm PT
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Haven't visited the location myself, but I've heard that the powder snow-covered loose shale plates at the top of Edith Cavell's N face are pretty effective sphincter tensioners.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 03:00pm PT
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^^^^^Going up is usually easier on the brain than going down.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jun 16, 2016 - 03:00pm PT
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Ask Ridgeway about the approach to the start of bizness on Mt. Watkins…
I had to demand a rope crossing the mud of Sunnyside Bench in a pouring rain!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 03:32pm PT
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^^^^ Like the Royal Arches long-jump finale, Muddyside Bench is seasonally 4th class.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 16, 2016 - 03:46pm PT
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Approach to Leaning Tower with 80lb pig on your back.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 16, 2016 - 05:31pm PT
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The whole concept of fourth class makes no sense to me. The hardest climbs should be rated 4.15b. Third class and then 4.0 to 4.15 and beyond.....the original fourth class definition eliminated as nonsensical..
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clifff
Mountain climber
golden, rollin hills of California
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Jun 16, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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The Mountaineer's Route on Mt Whitney is rated class 2-3. No problem even in crummy sneakers, a very experienced climber would think?
Not when its iced over it's not. Even ice free it would be class 4 I think.
And without a rope and the need to down climb with over 3000' of vertical exposure - yikes.
Or SW Side of North Palisade - Class 3?
Even without the 30' of ice it would be at least class 4. Plus the down climbing and difficult route finding make it even harder. Woe to the real beginner that goes thinking that those climbs are easy.
-----------------------------------------------------------------
new sick 4th class routes in Yosemite
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/92/new-sick-4th-class-routes-in-Yosemite
way back in the beginning on st:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum.php?f=76400&b=0#forum
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 16, 2016 - 06:01pm PT
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The solo descent from the highest peak of the Black Tusk (here, Tom Fyles on the first ascent, solo, 1917). The rock is very rotten; if you fall, that's it.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Jun 16, 2016 - 06:19pm PT
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Agree, clifff. That upper descent of Whitney down the Mountaineers Route is tricky, especially when you're tired and there's snow/ice. It's been the scene of numerous accidents.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 06:38pm PT
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I did a FA in the Olympic Mts where there was a whole pitch of 4th that
was almost vertical and it seemed to be 6'-8' dominos. I was afraid to
even slap some of them. I tried to channel Muhammed Ali and float like
a butterfly. Miraculously, just as I was running out of rope I got to
decent rock and was able to set up a belay.
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pb
Sport climber
Sonora Ca
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Jun 16, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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Mill Creek Jumpoff
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 16, 2016 - 08:42pm PT
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Mountaineers route is definitely a sandbag at 3rd class! You fall you die, that's 4th class. I wasn't really worried about my self but I would not do it with someone above me on it. Scarier than any 4th class I've done including the approach to leaning tower.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jun 17, 2016 - 06:16am PT
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That Willis Wall shot looks horrible, probably a winner. My vote--no photo--is for the traverse from Sahale Peak into Boston Basin in the N. Cascades. Actually, I think we turned back at the Class 3c section--horrifyingly loose, no way to anchor to the mtn., pure shite. This was supposed to be the quick and easy way to get over. NOT! We traversed back to Sahale Peak and enjoyed the views as the deep clouds in the valley boiled up and engulfed the crest. We hiked out in a steady rain. Ah, the Cascades.
BAd
Oh, and the easy NE ridge on Bear Creek Spire is mid-5th in places near the top. I think it's nearly impossible to keep it down to 4th class.
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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Jun 17, 2016 - 06:53am PT
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The walk/skooch across from the North summit to the south summit of Bugaboo Spire. In the rain. Or snow. Second time wasn't so bad.
Arne
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Byran
climber
Half Dome Village
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Jun 17, 2016 - 09:50am PT
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Is the Bellygood Ledge 4th class, or only 3rd? Super exposed and yet somehow it's a little claustrophobic at the same time. Not really that scary compared to some other stuff rated 4th class, but it's one of the more awesome features out there which most people do without a rope. If you really want to make it scary, you could stand up and "Honnold" across it with your back to the wall.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 17, 2016 - 09:58am PT
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Wow, I've had experiences with a few of these.
Leaning Tower: first did it as a teen without thinking of it. Went back when I was older (and they had a fixed line up) and was thinking 'Holy crap...'
Black Tusk: I've bagged this but remember looking at the upper tower, with some tat slings hanging off of what looked like talus and remember thinking 'no thanks'.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jun 17, 2016 - 12:07pm PT
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Sierra Ledge Rat:
I think that NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire was always rated 4th (like when I did it,) but it has been rerated to 5.5 now.
Maybe there is not much difference between those two....
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renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
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Jun 23, 2016 - 12:41pm PT
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Northeast ridge of Mt Moran..
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 23, 2016 - 01:01pm PT
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Getting off Temple Crag can be a exciting depending on how much you rope up.
We watched in horror as one our friends started sliding on a traverse along the summit ridge, then miraculously came to a stop. The look on his face was priceless. Once he stabilized we tossed him a cord.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jun 23, 2016 - 01:50pm PT
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The Owen Spaulding route on the Grand Teton. Especially down climbing it. Unroped, one slip and that's it. Period.
Roper's definition of 4th class goes something like "experienced climbers won't need a belay but the consequences are serious if you fall"
I'm sure someone will look it up and correct me but that's the best definition I've read.
Of course a great deal depends upon weather conditions and climber fatigue.
I can't think of any rating that's more subjective than "4th class".
And lots of 3d class can quickly become 4th or even 5th in the dark or inclement weather or carrying a big load.
Cat Walk on Middle Cathedral? M'eh. However see the sentence above.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 23, 2016 - 01:56pm PT
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leaning tower approach was crude
Those exit moves of the Royal arches--seriously? I had to cut loose and run down hill to the moss.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 23, 2016 - 01:57pm PT
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The Owen Spaulding route on the Grand Teton
HaHaHa! Last time I did it I guided a complete n00b up (and down) in early
winter conditions: verglas over everything - crampons only, braj! I did
belay him, though. The wind was blowing so hard at the last rappel I had
to tie big azzed rocks to the ropes, otherwise they went straight up! Fun!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jun 23, 2016 - 02:36pm PT
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Descending Michael's ledge. Scary sh#t.
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sowr
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 23, 2016 - 02:40pm PT
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Two that I can remember:
1) The East Face Route on Middle Palisade - I know it's supposed to be 3rd Class, but it scared the crap out of me and I've done a bunch of routes solo in the Sierra.
2) Had to retreat off Pingora once in the rain (NE Face) and those slabs at the bottom were horrifying.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 23, 2016 - 02:51pm PT
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Journey home has some 4th class that felt like 5.7-8 and scary for 400ft at the start.
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kew
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 23, 2016 - 05:32pm PT
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I slipped and started sliding down those slabs at the base of NE face of Pingora far enough to get my attention. Pre-sunrise, dark-ish, sleepy. That woke me up.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jun 23, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
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Ice Point in the Tetons. Not so bad on the way up...caught my partner on the downclimb when they slipped...yikes...
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The Frog
Trad climber
West Allis WI
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Jun 23, 2016 - 07:47pm PT
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On my first trip to Yosemite in the 1980's, I helped haul gear to the base of the Leaning Tower. Tom (and the several others who added this one), I agree with your votes-there were times when I thought I was going to die on that approach. And I was leading 10's then.
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ruppell
climber
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Jun 23, 2016 - 07:58pm PT
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The 3rd class of the back of Norman Clyde Peak. Not bad but jeez it's a long, long slide if you miss a step.
StahlBro
Temple is a walk off with one 60' rap down into contact pass.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Jun 23, 2016 - 08:12pm PT
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Oh my....
Getting in and out of the shower is pretty dang scary anymore. Slipperier than the slabs at the top of the Royal Arches, and just as horrific potential. I could "fall and can't get up," break a hip, you know, terrible outcomes. It's even feeling more and more exposed.
4th-classing pales by comparison to such dangers.
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ruppell
climber
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Jun 23, 2016 - 08:46pm PT
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StahlBro
Your talking about Dark Star not getting off Temple. DS has lots of fourth class on it. Once you summit is the walk off I was talking about.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Jun 23, 2016 - 09:15pm PT
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The down traverse to the rappel anchor on top of the Wedge in the Humbugs is heady DFU 4th class.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Jun 23, 2016 - 10:01pm PT
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The mantle at the top of Gunsight gully (Yosemite) has always been entertaining.
Easy yes, but there's a 30 footer if you sketch.
As tourists (I am) we went up to the pools/ waterslides BITD.
Last time I did it in 1990 I was trying to trail-run Pohono to 4 Mile Trail to Valley.
Got smoked early from so much uphill, but I saw Bridalveil creek/ falls below.
Descended Gunsight to safety, but that move was weighing on my mind.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 24, 2016 - 02:26pm PT
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ruppell,
Yep, you're right. Should have been more specific.
Cheers
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Psilocyborg
climber
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Jun 24, 2016 - 10:35pm PT
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General 3rd class scrambling....very loose very large talus, crumbly bumblys, and slippery sandy ledges always have me on edge. Don't need exposure to think your gonna die!
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID or the fricken Bakken, variously
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Jun 25, 2016 - 01:10pm PT
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The Ledge Trail in Yosemite. Good stuff!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 25, 2016 - 05:19pm PT
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^^^^^ The Ledge Trail that goes up Glacier Point?
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