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kew
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 16, 2016 - 11:12am PT
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My very first multi-pitch (as a very new climber) was What's My Line in Cochise Stronghold. The climb (with an A0 pendulum) goes at only 5.6 but I remember thinking the approach was way more terrifying than anything on the route (chimney out onto a ledge, maybe?).
Anyway, that formative experience years ago still makes me wary when I see "class 4" in the approach/descent.
I know "scary" is relative, but wondering--just in your personal opinion--what's some of the scariest 4th class out there? The approach to the sea king (Reef of Rocks?) crags on Mt Lemmon also comes to mind.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 16, 2016 - 11:18am PT
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Wet friction slabs at the top of the Royal Arches!
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 16, 2016 - 11:19am PT
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Any of Norman Clyde's "class 4" routes (hell, even some of his class 3 routes had me pretty scared)
The NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire is class 4 but I swear I was free-soloing class 5 near the summit.
Just about any class 4 gets pretty frightening if you get off route. :)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Jun 16, 2016 - 11:25am PT
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what SLR said, specifically as promulgated by Roper.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jun 16, 2016 - 11:34am PT
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First time I crossed Boulder Creek to climb Empor on Cob Rock, this is back before there was a Tyrolean, it was May with high water, I almost perished leaping to the final rock with all of my gear and rope on.
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PSP also PP
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jun 16, 2016 - 01:20pm PT
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Approach to Power Dome gets your attention.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 01:26pm PT
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How about scariest 3rd class?
Or is that 2nd class? I guess you can barely see the 300' ice cliff above.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
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The NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire is class 4 but I swear I was free-soloing class 5 near the summit.
+1
Also what Guido said. For that matter, the class 3 slab out of the Jungle can be rather frightening in the wets.
Now that I think of it, I got a rather rude surprise when I accepted at face value old guidebook's descriptions of fourth class (e.g. the first pitch of Lower Cathedral Spire). It just means that there either isn't protection, or the first ascent party didn't use it.
John
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 16, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
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How about scariest 3rd class? Willis Wall?
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 02:04pm PT
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+2 on the NE Arete of BCS. I probably got off route on that but parts of it felt about 5.6 to me. The summit block felt casual in comparison.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 02:07pm PT
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Alex Honnold claimed he wasn't scared when he did it, but 4th-classing the RNWF of Half Dome would be a Depends moment for most people.
EDIT:
Oh, you meant, "Scariest section that is rated 4th class".
The final approach traverse to the WF Leaning Tower is kinda notorious, especially with a haul bag.
The approach to some of the Sentinel Rock routes, the ones left of the Flying Buttress, have been known to frighten and even kill people.
The Katwalk on MCR is supposedly an eye-opener.
The dike pitches on Snake Dike are rated 5.3R, but how are those pitches different from 4th class? You go from belay to belay with no pro in between. Those pitches are exhilarating, which is a subset of scary.
VVVVVVVVV
It always seems scarier climbing down, rather than up. That's why free soloing is such a stiff game.
I rapped (wearing a pig) down the 4th class approach to Lurking Fear after climbing Cosmos and rapping LF from Thanksgiving. My partner, and two other climbers were taken a bit aback, but sure enough, they hand-lined down the rope before I pulled it. As I recall, I did it Dulfersitz style. Wearing only polypro thermal underwear.
There is nothing wrong with using the equipment and tools that you brought with you for that specific purpose.
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kew
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2016 - 02:24pm PT
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What about that part of the descent just labeled "JUMP" in the guide to the Exorcist part of Hall of Horrors in Joshua Tree? The 'casual' leap across the chasm (that I will never ever do)--does that qualify as 4th class?
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Jun 16, 2016 - 02:48pm PT
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Haven't visited the location myself, but I've heard that the powder snow-covered loose shale plates at the top of Edith Cavell's N face are pretty effective sphincter tensioners.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 03:00pm PT
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^^^^^Going up is usually easier on the brain than going down.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Jun 16, 2016 - 03:00pm PT
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Ask Ridgeway about the approach to the start of bizness on Mt. Watkins…
I had to demand a rope crossing the mud of Sunnyside Bench in a pouring rain!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 16, 2016 - 03:32pm PT
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^^^^ Like the Royal Arches long-jump finale, Muddyside Bench is seasonally 4th class.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 16, 2016 - 03:46pm PT
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Approach to Leaning Tower with 80lb pig on your back.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jun 16, 2016 - 05:31pm PT
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The whole concept of fourth class makes no sense to me. The hardest climbs should be rated 4.15b. Third class and then 4.0 to 4.15 and beyond.....the original fourth class definition eliminated as nonsensical..
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clifff
Mountain climber
golden, rollin hills of California
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Jun 16, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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The Mountaineer's Route on Mt Whitney is rated class 2-3. No problem even in crummy sneakers, a very experienced climber would think?
Not when its iced over it's not. Even ice free it would be class 4 I think.
And without a rope and the need to down climb with over 3000' of vertical exposure - yikes.
Or SW Side of North Palisade - Class 3?
Even without the 30' of ice it would be at least class 4. Plus the down climbing and difficult route finding make it even harder. Woe to the real beginner that goes thinking that those climbs are easy.
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new sick 4th class routes in Yosemite
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/92/new-sick-4th-class-routes-in-Yosemite
way back in the beginning on st:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum.php?f=76400&b=0#forum
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jun 16, 2016 - 06:01pm PT
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The solo descent from the highest peak of the Black Tusk (here, Tom Fyles on the first ascent, solo, 1917). The rock is very rotten; if you fall, that's it.
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