scariest 4th class?

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kew

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 16, 2016 - 11:12am PT
My very first multi-pitch (as a very new climber) was What's My Line in Cochise Stronghold. The climb (with an A0 pendulum) goes at only 5.6 but I remember thinking the approach was way more terrifying than anything on the route (chimney out onto a ledge, maybe?).

Anyway, that formative experience years ago still makes me wary when I see "class 4" in the approach/descent.

I know "scary" is relative, but wondering--just in your personal opinion--what's some of the scariest 4th class out there? The approach to the sea king (Reef of Rocks?) crags on Mt Lemmon also comes to mind.
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Jun 16, 2016 - 11:18am PT
Wet friction slabs at the top of the Royal Arches!
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jun 16, 2016 - 11:19am PT
Any of Norman Clyde's "class 4" routes (hell, even some of his class 3 routes had me pretty scared)

The NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire is class 4 but I swear I was free-soloing class 5 near the summit.

Just about any class 4 gets pretty frightening if you get off route. :)
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Jun 16, 2016 - 11:25am PT
what SLR said, specifically as promulgated by Roper.
ydpl8s

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Jun 16, 2016 - 11:34am PT
First time I crossed Boulder Creek to climb Empor on Cob Rock, this is back before there was a Tyrolean, it was May with high water, I almost perished leaping to the final rock with all of my gear and rope on.
PSP also PP

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jun 16, 2016 - 01:20pm PT
Approach to Power Dome gets your attention.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jun 16, 2016 - 01:26pm PT
How about scariest 3rd class?


Or is that 2nd class? I guess you can barely see the 300' ice cliff above.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Jun 16, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
The NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire is class 4 but I swear I was free-soloing class 5 near the summit.

+1

Also what Guido said. For that matter, the class 3 slab out of the Jungle can be rather frightening in the wets.

Now that I think of it, I got a rather rude surprise when I accepted at face value old guidebook's descriptions of fourth class (e.g. the first pitch of Lower Cathedral Spire). It just means that there either isn't protection, or the first ascent party didn't use it.

John
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jun 16, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
How about scariest 3rd class?
Willis Wall?
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jun 16, 2016 - 02:04pm PT
+2 on the NE Arete of BCS. I probably got off route on that but parts of it felt about 5.6 to me. The summit block felt casual in comparison.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jun 16, 2016 - 02:07pm PT
Alex Honnold claimed he wasn't scared when he did it, but 4th-classing the RNWF of Half Dome would be a Depends moment for most people.




EDIT:

Oh, you meant, "Scariest section that is rated 4th class".

The final approach traverse to the WF Leaning Tower is kinda notorious, especially with a haul bag.

The approach to some of the Sentinel Rock routes, the ones left of the Flying Buttress, have been known to frighten and even kill people.

The Katwalk on MCR is supposedly an eye-opener.



The dike pitches on Snake Dike are rated 5.3R, but how are those pitches different from 4th class? You go from belay to belay with no pro in between. Those pitches are exhilarating, which is a subset of scary.



VVVVVVVVV

It always seems scarier climbing down, rather than up. That's why free soloing is such a stiff game.


I rapped (wearing a pig) down the 4th class approach to Lurking Fear after climbing Cosmos and rapping LF from Thanksgiving. My partner, and two other climbers were taken a bit aback, but sure enough, they hand-lined down the rope before I pulled it. As I recall, I did it Dulfersitz style. Wearing only polypro thermal underwear.


There is nothing wrong with using the equipment and tools that you brought with you for that specific purpose.
kew

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2016 - 02:24pm PT
What about that part of the descent just labeled "JUMP" in the guide to the Exorcist part of Hall of Horrors in Joshua Tree? The 'casual' leap across the chasm (that I will never ever do)--does that qualify as 4th class?
Spiny Norman

Social climber
Boring, Oregon
Jun 16, 2016 - 02:48pm PT
Haven't visited the location myself, but I've heard that the powder snow-covered loose shale plates at the top of Edith Cavell's N face are pretty effective sphincter tensioners.
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Jun 16, 2016 - 03:00pm PT
^^^^^Going up is usually easier on the brain than going down.
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Jun 16, 2016 - 03:00pm PT
Ask Ridgeway about the approach to the start of bizness on Mt. Watkins…

I had to demand a rope crossing the mud of Sunnyside Bench in a pouring rain!
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jun 16, 2016 - 03:32pm PT
^^^^ Like the Royal Arches long-jump finale, Muddyside Bench is seasonally 4th class.

rincon

climber
Coarsegold
Jun 16, 2016 - 03:46pm PT
Approach to Leaning Tower with 80lb pig on your back.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jun 16, 2016 - 05:31pm PT
The whole concept of fourth class makes no sense to me. The hardest climbs should be rated 4.15b. Third class and then 4.0 to 4.15 and beyond.....the original fourth class definition eliminated as nonsensical..
clifff

Mountain climber
golden, rollin hills of California
Jun 16, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
The Mountaineer's Route on Mt Whitney is rated class 2-3. No problem even in crummy sneakers, a very experienced climber would think?

Not when its iced over it's not. Even ice free it would be class 4 I think.
And without a rope and the need to down climb with over 3000' of vertical exposure - yikes.

Or SW Side of North Palisade - Class 3?

Even without the 30' of ice it would be at least class 4. Plus the down climbing and difficult route finding make it even harder. Woe to the real beginner that goes thinking that those climbs are easy.

-----------------------------------------------------------------


new sick 4th class routes in Yosemite

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/92/new-sick-4th-class-routes-in-Yosemite

way back in the beginning on st:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum.php?f=76400&b=0#forum
Tricouni

Mountain climber
Vancouver
Jun 16, 2016 - 06:01pm PT
The solo descent from the highest peak of the Black Tusk (here, Tom Fyles on the first ascent, solo, 1917). The rock is very rotten; if you fall, that's it.

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