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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 11, 2011 - 12:07pm PT
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I wonder who imported them in North America, if anyone did?
Obviously nobody with a clue about marketing. That assumes that they did
work, up to a point which appears debateable.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2011 - 01:15pm PT
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So many cams, so little time!
I did read your excellent history but didn't keep the Joker in my hand! LOL
I am a bit surprised that they were able to obtain a patent.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 12, 2011 - 03:49am PT
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Steve, once at home yesterday evening, I dug in my archives. In France, the Joker was marketed from 1986 to 1990.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 12, 2011 - 02:32pm PT
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Thanks Stephane.
I would assume that the Bi-Caps had a similar run.
Did Bergsport Int. make and market any other hardware?
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miwuksurfer
Social climber
Mi-Wuk
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Feb 11, 2012 - 09:52am PT
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Can't get enough ball nuts...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 11, 2012 - 05:12pm PT
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I love them too.
The crux of the Muir Wall when Jay Ladin and I did it hammerless was a #2 Ballnut that finally stuck after three hours of trying everything on the rack five times in a miserable little scar.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 15, 2012 - 04:10pm PT
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Way back in the early 70's I bought a bunch of used gear at Culp's shop, The Boulder Mountaineer. Among those mixed nuts was a tiny CMI hex. Somehow it didn't get used beyond my X gear stamp.
Recently I landed the rest of the set short one.
The two smallest sizes #610 and #620.
The next two sizes with the #640 missing in between. If anyone has a #640 in good shape to sell or trade please let me know so I can fill this set out.
Designed by a machinist, every bit of material was milled away leaving the central web.
Despite the same old hexagonal shape, these nuts are beautifully crafted and lovingly finished much like Dolt gear.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Apr 15, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
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The crux of the Muir Wall when Jay Ladin and I did it hammerless was a #2 Ballnut that finally stuck after three hours of trying everything on the rack five times in a miserable little scar.
Is that accurate, Steve? That's some pretty good dedication!
I've been thinking if a beak or pecker and a small upside down nut would get you up some wierdo pin scars or parallel cracks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 15, 2012 - 04:51pm PT
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Out came the headlamp and I kept working into the darkness looking at a good dive all the while. No regrets now looking back just a smile.
Difficult aid climbing and especially clean aid is all about tenacity under fire and it starts on the ground.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Apr 15, 2012 - 06:17pm PT
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"it takes balls to use nuts"
...not if you climb at Lumpy Ridge. Hot damn! Forget cams in a place like that. That place is tailor-made for nuts!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 15, 2012 - 06:46pm PT
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Henry Barber still won't stoop to gizmos...they make some routes "critically easy" you know. LOL
Henry walking the walk on True Grit!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 21, 2012 - 01:33pm PT
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Pretty blue bump...
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Apr 21, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
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Difficult aid climbing and especially clean aid is all about tenacity under fire and it starts on the ground.
I love this line! Especially the "starts on the ground" part.
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Apr 21, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
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"it takes balls to use nuts"
...not if you climb at Lumpy Ridge. Hot damn! Forget cams in a place like that. That place is tailor-made for nuts!
Ahhhh! Lumpy. The land o-nuts. What I wouldn't do to be there now. Disneyland for climbers. SOOOOOO much stone. Sticky granite.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Apr 21, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
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I love those blue nuts, but I must also say...nice dime!!
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throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 21, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Apr 21, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
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^^^fukin genius
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Double copies of the '72 catalog, plus singles of the '75, '78, '85, and '86 catalogs just fell into my lap and I'm just curious about a few things:
* What typeface was used for the item names?
* What spurred the change toward the steel nuts that show up in '85?
* Has anything been written about the craftsmen/women that are profiled in the '85 catalog (Ezquivel Machado, Sue Mulford, Julio Varela)
* Does anyone have a Chouinard Changabang poster that they'd be willing to part with?
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Damn the torpedoes...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!