nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Please Steve, may I correct a little mistake.
The Bi-Caps were not marketed by Salewa but by Bergsport International. They were created by Stefan Engers. (Patent DE 35 26 402, 5 February 1987).
This company also marketed the other Stefan Engers’ creation, the Joker (Patent DE 35 17 741, 5 March 1987).
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2011 - 08:09am PT
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How long were these two designs on the market?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 11, 2011 - 08:30am PT
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Steve, it is not that easy to answer your question. I would say, in Europe, four or five years, maybe a little less. I am sorry not to be more accurate this time.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2011 - 08:31am PT
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What does the Joker look like?
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 11, 2011 - 08:40am PT
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Here they are... But, of course Steve, you know them!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2011 - 09:04am PT
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I've known a lot of Jokers along the way but none that I would trust to catch a fall! LOL
Interesting design! I actually haven't seen those before. I wonder who imported them in North America, if anyone did?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 11, 2011 - 09:07am PT
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I wonder who imported them in North America, if anyone did?
Obviously nobody with a clue about marketing. That assumes that they did
work, up to a point which appears debateable.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 11, 2011 - 10:15am PT
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So many cams, so little time!
I did read your excellent history but didn't keep the Joker in my hand! LOL
I am a bit surprised that they were able to obtain a patent.
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nutstory
climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
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Mar 12, 2011 - 12:49am PT
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Steve, once at home yesterday evening, I dug in my archives. In France, the Joker was marketed from 1986 to 1990.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 12, 2011 - 11:32am PT
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Thanks Stephane.
I would assume that the Bi-Caps had a similar run.
Did Bergsport Int. make and market any other hardware?
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miwuksurfer
Social climber
Mi-Wuk
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Feb 11, 2012 - 06:52am PT
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Can't get enough ball nuts...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 11, 2012 - 02:12pm PT
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I love them too.
The crux of the Muir Wall when Jay Ladin and I did it hammerless was a #2 Ballnut that finally stuck after three hours of trying everything on the rack five times in a miserable little scar.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Apr 15, 2012 - 01:45pm PT
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The crux of the Muir Wall when Jay Ladin and I did it hammerless was a #2 Ballnut that finally stuck after three hours of trying everything on the rack five times in a miserable little scar.
Is that accurate, Steve? That's some pretty good dedication!
I've been thinking if a beak or pecker and a small upside down nut would get you up some wierdo pin scars or parallel cracks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 15, 2012 - 01:51pm PT
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Out came the headlamp and I kept working into the darkness looking at a good dive all the while. No regrets now looking back just a smile.
Difficult aid climbing and especially clean aid is all about tenacity under fire and it starts on the ground.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Fort Collins, CO
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Apr 15, 2012 - 03:17pm PT
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"it takes balls to use nuts"
...not if you climb at Lumpy Ridge. Hot damn! Forget cams in a place like that. That place is tailor-made for nuts!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 15, 2012 - 03:46pm PT
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Henry Barber still won't stoop to gizmos...they make some routes "critically easy" you know. LOL
Henry walking the walk on True Grit!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 21, 2012 - 10:33am PT
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Pretty blue bump...
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Plaidman
Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
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Apr 21, 2012 - 10:48am PT
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Difficult aid climbing and especially clean aid is all about tenacity under fire and it starts on the ground.
I love this line! Especially the "starts on the ground" part.
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