It takes balls to use nuts...


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Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Apr 21, 2012 - 01:50pm PT
"it takes balls to use nuts"

...not if you climb at Lumpy Ridge. Hot damn! Forget cams in a place like that. That place is tailor-made for nuts!

Ahhhh! Lumpy. The land o-nuts. What I wouldn't do to be there now. Disneyland for climbers. SOOOOOO much stone. Sticky granite.

Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
Apr 21, 2012 - 01:53pm PT
I love those blue nuts, but I must also say...nice dime!!

Trad climber
Apr 21, 2012 - 03:21pm PT
Credit: throwpie
gonzo chemist

Fort Collins, CO
Apr 21, 2012 - 05:48pm PT
^^^fukin genius

beneath the valley of ultravegans
May 3, 2012 - 12:37am PT
Double copies of the '72 catalog, plus singles of the '75, '78, '85, and '86 catalogs just fell into my lap and I'm just curious about a few things:

* What typeface was used for the item names?
* What spurred the change toward the steel nuts that show up in '85?
* Has anything been written about the craftsmen/women that are profiled in the '85 catalog (Ezquivel Machado, Sue Mulford, Julio Varela)
* Does anyone have a Chouinard Changabang poster that they'd be willing to part with?

beneath the valley of ultravegans
May 3, 2012 - 12:22pm PT

Damn the torpedoes...

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
May 11, 2012 - 10:04pm PT
Another classic thread title (and thread) that deserves to be bumped.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 12, 2012 - 08:59pm PT
climbing is dangerous. climb at you own risk.

It doesn't take balls to post photos of roaches.
It does take a camera, though.
Pie, I got a doob wants his portrait done.
jack herer

Big Wall climber
Veneta, Oregon
May 12, 2012 - 09:04pm PT
yeah throwpie... f*#kin genius!!!

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
May 12, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
Credit: StahlBro
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 12, 2012 - 09:53pm PT

The centre piece of the Llanberis Pass is Cenotaph Corner on Dinas Cromlech, climbed by Joe Brown.

Yes, but search as I might, no photos of the companion to Cemetery Gates is to be found on ST. There are some soso shots on the web, but there are photos in at least one of the ancient Mountain magazine numbers.


Steve, Guido, Don, Royal, even YOODawg, over...
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 12, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
I'm jamming thru these posts and there are the Peck crackers...
The Mtn. Shop in YV in the critical years 1970-71 carried these. They sold like warm turds, they had cooties, I guess. I had a set, never ever had one pull out. But they were far less useful in Y-type climbs just because they were not designed primarily for smooth surfaces. Plus they were not as versatile as the gifts of the Magi, the Stoppers and Hescentrics, which replaced them on my rack.

I never had much use for the larger tubes, I-bars, and other wide stock that started showing up before the Friendly Revolution. Apparently
Jardine was like the second coming of Yvon, but his ethics ruined his gig for me
and so I never ever bought a Friend, and made sure my friends stayed stoned if it bothered them.

Seriously, this question should be asked, I feel, by honest leaders everywhere: "Does this supplier/mfr. deserve my support, or what?" I think it needs to be addressed. Ethics are not enforceable unless a man takes a stand and puts his money in the hands of those who are willing to forgo profit for the greater good.

In my case, I elected to ignore Friends like I ignored OW. I did enough of that wide shiteyshite so my knees aren't exactly ruined but well-thrashed. So I didn't really need the Friends. It seems like an empty gesture, I suppose, but I really hate the auto and ride a bike and support public transport and give the finger to every Hummer I see. So I am not hypocritical.

I wonder what the journal of that Pudding Stone would read like...

Healyje--I would like to see a Cams-free challenge, too. But it hasn't happened yet in the six years since you brought it up.

Two reasons, I think:

1) No balls, obviously.
2) It's probably just as useless as establishing a climbing route, in the long run.

To me, relying on cds, without having ever placed pro using non-cams, it's like using skins on skis w/o learning something about wax, which you can do, but there's something lost in the total experience. It is more satisfying to set that nut and know it's bomber after hours at it. On the other hand, sometimes we end up with a hole in our tongue and our teeth in chunks. It's the game we play. Never forget its a game.

Or that climbing IS and ALWAYS WILL BE DANGEROUS. Climb without me if you're bringing your little Friends, though. I accept cds as part of the modern rack, but nuts are light compared to iron. I am so goddam glad I was able to begin climbing in a time when pins were being eschewed in favor of cleaner things. It taught me a whole lot. When you just do it so it feels right, that makes climbing fun. People who chip holds should be sanctioned. Don't buy sh#t from them. Tell your pals.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 12, 2012 - 10:21pm PT

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 12, 2012 - 10:43pm PT
I struck out on a quick pass...

The 72 Chouinard catalog has a small but nice shot of Cenotaph if memory serves. Can't find my copy...Even The Hard Years doesn't have a good shot.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 12, 2012 - 10:44pm PT
All righty,then.

The very photo I was thinking of.

The damsel is no longer in such dire straits. Think I'll listen to some.

And think about those Cemetery Gates.

Good old Steve, you'll make some one a fine second some day. Thanks. mfm

Clint, esp. thanks. You can be leader, okay? mfm
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 12, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
Several shots but not great ones in the second Robbins article in the Nuts To You thread. Another historical tidbit likely to get a nibble from the Mouse...
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 12, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
"Steve, get the net, my god he's huge."

I'm having fun.


Let me clarify that. 'rocksport'--a magazine circulating in the late 60s and early 70s, came regularly to the YV Mtn shop, but we were the only ones who read it. Camp 4 generally ignored things that cost money. Except Werner, but that's just a rumor.
Turn over any rock in the Valley there's probably a Wernerumor under it...

But the Brits' Mountaineering Council apparently had this under their charge, and there was another title, Mtn Life, which we may have seen, but don't have much recall. The thing about Rocksport, that mainly appealed? Photos and route lines.

There are few of these Mtn Life + Rocksports left available an the market, I think. At Abebooks, for example the one copy they have is "temporarily unavailable." WTF is up with that, I wonder? Someone take it home to read in the john? I certainly would. And did.
Rick A

Boulder, Colorado
May 13, 2012 - 11:48am PT
Here you go. Rob Muir leading Cenotaph in 1977. Picture above looking down is from that same day.

Credit: Rick A
mouse from merced

Trad climber
merced, california
May 13, 2012 - 12:17pm PT
Thanks for the rock porn, Rick--I really mean it, buddy.
My favorite tale of several I've read of this meanie is the one of the attempt JB made where he had to down-climb it to help his second.
He bloody down-climbed it!
I gotta go change my drawers.....

Here's some stuff about some stuffed shirts from the Valley.

Two Nuts in Wales
photo not found
Missing photo ID#213836

Randy Hamm and Gypsy in North Wales, shopping at Joe Brown's shop.
Of all the Flames, and all my other close climbing friends, Randy was the only one to live the fantasy of climbing in Wales/England, and I received lots of mail from traveling customers at TNF's Outlet, putting the cards on the wall by the register. Randy had either just done the Cenotaph Corner or was looking to do it. That and Dream of White Horses were my and Randy's lodestars back at TNF. I was sorry to see him leave the shop, but he and Gypsy were going abroad to climb--they were going to Blighty!

They sent Dolores and I a card, telling us little. I had one letter, a brief one--thanks, Gypsy--telling of the field in Chamonix, the climb they did together on the M. She sounded so 'at home' with the goings-on in Chamonix, like it was all just ordinary--it's tough when you gotta listen to the travelers' stories, especially when there is a great deal of envy involved.

A short bit of background is interesting, so--
Randy was a Southern Californian who ended up in the Marine Corps. He never talked surf, so I suppose he wasn't all that cool, eh? Like a good number of us vets, he came to YV after serving. Gypsy Flores came from Fresno, a bagel-baking beauty with whom Randy instantly took up. He was a talent-filled and imaginative artist, who could emulate like nobody's business. I had a , never mind, I gave it to a friend--describing good art is too big and difficult a thing here. Let's just say Skywalker Ranch was lucky to get him on staff.

Gypsy raised their son Ariel Sierra in Santa Cruz and he is thirty-five. There's a memorial tree in SC for Randy. I've no interest in going there. My memories are his memorial in my view. When you have literally caught a fellow in your lap after a fall, there is a closeness to be shared by nobody else. He fell fifteen or so feet on the second pitch of Tweedle Dee, landing where I sat on the pillar, perfectly willing to belay him. There was no pro so he landed square in my lap, my feet braced perfectly on the wall he'd fallen off. No heads bumped, no breath was lost. It was all "scripted," as it were. Harold Lloyd might have done it better, but it wasn't Harold, it was Randy.

Randy had every good reason to look so smug: good woman, in the Blighty, France next, and looking forward to going back to Camp 4. He and I decided that if one of us was to get to Wales, the Corner was the main objective. Besides, who needs Cemetery Gates? Right, Rick? Thanks again for that photo, it means lots to me, and I'm pretty sure he would want to be remembered this way.

Edit: There is another artistic talent lurking on this page, the irrepressible Throwpie of Berkeley. Sounds like a bakery for the Stooges.
Anyway, Randy might have taken your roach portrait and rendered it in pointillist style, rock and all. Emulation and animation were easy for him. That's talent. His ducks in wingtips (shoes)--that's imagination.

But I must credit Throwpie for creation of the AMAZING Ripstop Geese. Awesome dudes, both Flames, no Stonemasters need apply.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 19, 2012 - 01:41pm PT
Nut bump....
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