It takes balls to use nuts...

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charlie.elverson

Trad climber
St. Paul, MN
Oct 26, 2010 - 08:37pm PT
Were nuts accepted more easily for aid climbing than free climbing? My thinking behind this question is that for aid you could place a few then a pin and feel pretty safe and move faster.
michaelc

Trad climber
Sydney Oz
Oct 28, 2010 - 06:59am PT
Another post..... Ref the development of nuts:

My understanding is that prior to nuts rounded pebbles were placed in cracks and then slings looped around for protection

The centre piece of the Llanberis Pass is Centotaph Corner on Dinas Cromlech, climbed by Joe Brown

Myth has it that there is a fairly large pebble from the river below jammed in the corner called The Pudding Stone that has migrated itself up and down the climb over the years

Detail can be found in Rock Climbing in Snowdonia By Paul Williams on Page 175
Guide book quotation
Guide book quotation
Credit: michaelc
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 28, 2010 - 11:49am PT
Some early nut history from the other side of the pond ala Royal Robbins and Tom Higgins...Nuts to You!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1220704&msg=1253959#msg1253959

Edit: Tom's The British Are Coming article is reproduced in its original form as part of this thread.
LongAgo

Trad climber
Oct 28, 2010 - 04:51pm PT
Duncan,

If you are interested, the link to the "old article" in Summit I reference in my above post is here:

http://www.tomhiggins.net/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=25&Itemid=20&limit=1&limitstart=0

I didn't relay info on all the climbs we did in the Llanberis Pass and Snowdon area, but did reflect on the machine nut protection, grading system and climbing spirit. There's also a bit on meeting British climbers in Chamonix.

LongAgo
BlackSpider

Ice climber
Nov 26, 2010 - 11:48am PT
This seemed like a good photo for this thread:
Credit: BlackSpider

Story here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=59099
go-B

climber
Matthew 25:40
Nov 26, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
Thanks Jello, still my fav nut was to use Lowe TriCams at Courtright Res. perfect holes!
EdBannister

Mountain climber
13,000 feet
Nov 26, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
Thanks for the post Jeff!

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 4, 2010 - 07:25pm PT
A classic Peck Cracker ad from Summit May 1971.


Very well made and ubiquitous nuggets! Show us your Pecks!!!
HighTraverse

Social climber
Bay Area
Dec 4, 2010 - 07:54pm PT
We called 'em Peckers.
Seemed appropriate since they never seemed to stay in long enough. Always slipped out when you leaned back to look up the route.
I've got 2 or 3 I picked up used in about '75. Don't know if I've used 'em since about '78.
And no, I'm not posting a pic of my peckers.

I still take two or three larger hexes on alpine routes. Very handy on broken ground, behind flakes, between boulders. Places cams don't work so well or take longer to set. Lighter than a cam of similar size, takes up less space in the pack.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 18, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
For your holiday pleasure, diminutive nuts or the tiniest of Peckers! LOL



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 19, 2010 - 07:01pm PT
Knurly little bumps!
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Dec 19, 2010 - 07:06pm PT
I still carry the two smallest ones.

The work where nothing else will.
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Dec 19, 2010 - 08:04pm PT
Ok, here it is the best nuts or (stoppers) are made by Tom Frost. Period Ö
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 19, 2010 - 08:13pm PT
Little known secret---If you buy a set of Sentinel Nuts, Tom swages them up out in the garage himself! How cool is that?!?
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Dec 19, 2010 - 08:44pm PT
Itís true. Thanks Steve! Old school hand crafted gear.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 20, 2010 - 12:15am PT
From the hands of the Master...
duncan

climber
London, UK
Dec 21, 2010 - 04:40am PT
...by way of a nudge.

LongAgoTom...I missed your post first time around, fascinating, thanks for this. As you suggest, there can't have been many active American climbers visiting the UK in the 60s. We forget how different climbing cultures evolved, like Galapagos finches, in the relative isolation of those times.

If you've not seen it already, I think you'll enjoy the film I've linked to here.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 1, 2011 - 01:51pm PT
Tom sent me some loose Sentinel Nuts to play around with so I thought that I would post a couple of shots of his elegant design work.



Johnny K.

Mountain climber
Southern,California
Jan 23, 2011 - 12:00pm PT
This thread is one of the most interesting.Get back up to the top =D
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 5, 2011 - 08:38pm PT
Can't decide between flat and curved Stoppers?!?

Now you don't have to...




With the Salewa Bi-Caps! The #9 is shown here...




The tapped holes are struck with a punch to fix the wire and limit the range of the swivel action.

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