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TRo
climber
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May 23, 2016 - 07:50pm PT
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TRo
climber
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May 23, 2016 - 07:54pm PT
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2016 - 09:29pm PT
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Very cool!
The cuts are masonry blade marks from cutting blocks?
I guess they don't mind bolting - why are the anchors crappy?
Edit:
Did you ever go towards downtown from REI? There was an
old sandstone building* there which had some wicked hard traverses on it.
*at Pike and Broadway IIRC
Reilly yes, we tried that traverse as part of our Capitol Hill circuit - never got far on it...
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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May 23, 2016 - 09:46pm PT
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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May 24, 2016 - 04:23am PT
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Did a Sierra climb that involved jumping from the top of a small tower to a ledge on the main peak
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TRo
climber
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May 24, 2016 - 04:47am PT
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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May 24, 2016 - 04:43pm PT
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someone just posted an account of wild thing. pretty much how i remember it, but not many brain cells left from that period...
i do recall falling in the summiting slime/bat sh#t chimney for a ways. i always wondered what would happen if you fell in one of those tight squeeze things, you sort of rattle down like you'd expect until you wedge in.
of note, my partner for this adventure was the infamous edward drummond. someone posted up thread about sometimes its not the rock but the partner.. in this case the best/worse of both worlds.
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Steven Amter
climber
Washington, DC
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May 26, 2016 - 02:16pm PT
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In about 1977 I put up an unreported route in the Cirque of the Towers area of the Wind River Range. It was with a climber whose name I have long since forgotten (he was a teacher from upstate New York - Albany or Syracuse area?).
We started up on an established route that near the top entered into a large chimney with crappy protection (old pins) that led deeper and deeper and had us doing big stemming moves. Rather than continue up the chimney, we elected to go deeper into it an found ourselves in a cave where we could see a little bit of daylight at the other side.
The light was from a small hole in somewhat broken rock - an opening smaller than a bowling ball. We spent the better part of an hour whacking away at the rock until we widened the hole enough to crawl out onto a decent, steep face that, as far as we could tell, had never before been climbed. Some more pitches and we topped out. At the time, I felt somewhat embarrassed by the whole episode, so I never reported the "route."
But in my head I have always remembered the route by the name "Caver's Delight."
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 26, 2016 - 03:02pm PT
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Ames memorial at vedawoo
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localdan
Trad climber
Visalia, CA
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May 27, 2016 - 06:29am PT
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Humanality, Tonsai beach, Thailand. I hadn't climbed limestone much, not used to looking for tufas to stem off of.
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__e Whitehouse
Social climber
Ouray, colorado
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May 27, 2016 - 09:30am PT
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FA with Derek Hersey in Wild Iris, named it Nothing to do with cowboys so what anyhow.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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May 27, 2016 - 10:05am PT
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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May 27, 2016 - 11:08am PT
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Was climbing "Under the Bigtop" at the leap recently, when I got to the wide horizontal opening at hand hight. The sloper is covered with birdcrap so I endeavered to jam a foot in that thing to rest up. To my surprise, when I reached into it to place gear I had to scrape out about six large fishheads that the falcons left there. Bones and all.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 27, 2016 - 11:17am PT
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The Embarrassment of Rich's was kinda weird. The first piece was a #6 Friend, followed by a purple TCU. The the overhanging hand crack, filled with fresh bat guano.
The route changes with every ascent!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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May 27, 2016 - 11:23am PT
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Chockstone Chimney has some good-weird elements to it.
*The crux is weird in that you have to do a balancy sequence to a boa-like tree limb, then monkey up long, smooth, cascading tree limbs for a while.
*The core of the climb is comprised of a series of weird and beautiful chimneys, all distinct from one another. The first is clean and tree-choked and all kinds of fun, the second is pitch-black dark, the third is angular and bizarre with all kinds of geometry afforded by a massive intruding flake and a large roof that caps it and chops up the light coming in from the top, and the last is the namesake chockstone chimney.
The descent is almost as strange and wondrous as the climb, involving a traverse through Sherwood Forest (really cool), unlikely and hard to find raps, steep raps, questionable raps, and finally a waltz down the El Cap Gulley and past the Hourglass Flake.
Great day, the Chockstone Chimney, full of weirdness and a damn good outing.
Here's Pellucid's TR: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Chockstone-Chimney-with-LeBruce-Photo-TR/t12154n.html
Book of Job isn't weird except in that when looking up and sussing from the base it looks like it's a steep line. When looking down on your second as they come up to your belay it also looks like a steep line. But while you're climbing it, there's nothing steep about it.
Hmm seems steep
Still looking steep from below
The fall of the trail line, the body position, the roof - seems to indicate steep climbing. But when you're on lead wow nope not at all.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Tork, where the heck is that route with the tubes?
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L
climber
A place where Blue is the new Black...
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I'm wondering where the heck MisterE is.
Of all the MIA Tacoians, I miss his posts the most.
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