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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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May 20, 2016 - 02:26pm PT
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Solo the big S-Crack on Jesus Wall at Stoney, with a clove-hitch belay. I was strong that day and the bee-hive was on haitus for the winter. Plenty of bat & bird guano to wallow through. It would be a five star route if not for all the poop and bees.
Next to that was doing a long right hand traverse about 3/4 way up Sespe wall and finding a snake coiled up in a hueco.
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TahoeHangDogger
climber
Olympic Valley, CA
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May 20, 2016 - 03:07pm PT
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Labyrinth at Black Wall is an interesting adventure.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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May 20, 2016 - 03:19pm PT
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A climb we called "This will feel a little weird"; following the 1st ascent:
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 20, 2016 - 03:20pm PT
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No one claimed Jeremy's MOM yet?!
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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May 20, 2016 - 03:39pm PT
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In the far out backcountry of Jtree sometime in the mid 1990's, we climbed up a crack and into a horizontal cave for a distance, then popped out on the other side of the rock to continue up the face. I think we called it Captain Caveman or something silly. Good place to contract the junta virus, I'm sure.
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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May 20, 2016 - 07:36pm PT
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The Creature, Joshua Tree.
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Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
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May 22, 2016 - 10:03pm PT
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Mine (so far) was Candyland (.10c) at Phantom Spires.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Topic Author's Reply - May 22, 2016 - 10:39pm PT
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^^Nice, Trad! That is on the list - looks awesome!
Thanks for the eye-candy!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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May 23, 2016 - 02:09am PT
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Goat Rock (across the street from Castle Rock)
went there to get stoned at night, no light, hide out in the cave, true nut cases would do the overhang in the cave, sometimes people would already be in the cave and you could hear them having a party so we sneak back out, parking on slyline at night was legal back then, now they give you a parking ticket for just being alive,
then there was the cliff above the pavilion on Catalina, 12 years old, big ass crowd gathered at the ticket line, all of them looking up and saying
your gonna die!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 23, 2016 - 04:18am PT
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The hands down winner is Depression, II, 5.2/Tenaya Cyn.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Overcoming-Depression-5-1-X/t12504n.html
Sad to relate, folks, but this route is now buried by a large-ish tree which fell over on it. It's impossible to do the route again until it has decomposed or burned.
To my knowledge, it never received a second ascent. It's just as well. The low rating would have led to an eventual death, given the X rating.
But in the real world the climb would have to be Agassiz Column below Union Pt. on the Glacier Pt. Trail.
There is some element of doubt as to calling the experience an ascent, first or otherwise.
But no one can call me a liar if I call it a "first descent."
Jerry Coe was the "leaper" and I the "treelayer."
We climbed a tree part-way to its top and I held the rope, a 150' Mammut.
Jerry jumped and landed on two feet. He then put in a 1/4" bolt, anchored to it, and held the rope while I made my leap, using a belay from the tree.
I remember hurting my palms as I slapped them on the top of the pillar.
We rapped off the bolt like heroes instead of trying any fancy lowering with the treelay.
The experience is mentioned in the fairly recent past here on ST by yours truly.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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May 23, 2016 - 10:04am PT
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Giant sequoia in Yosemite during filming of that short Universal series. The old branch stubs had been protected by the canopy forever, were full of pitch, weighed as much as rocks, and would fall at a touch. And when you got well up the tree you couldn't see the ground or much of anything, and the tree didn't sway smoothly in the wind, it sort of shuddered.
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Fossil climber
Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
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May 23, 2016 - 10:53am PT
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Sometimes it's not the rock that is weird - it's your partner.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2016 - 03:18pm PT
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^^Nice to meet and climb with you yesterday, Jebus!
Another one is Volunteer Park Water Tower. It's bricks with irregularities sticking out of many of the bricks.
It is a popular place to go and traverse boulder - there is a route all the way around the tower, going over the entry-ways.
The climb up the tower has been lead with gear in between the bricks and slinging bricks & the bars in the windows,
but I top-roped it from one of the top window like in this video:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 23, 2016 - 03:44pm PT
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I've got miles in on the Water Tower. Would even go up there in the rain
if it wasn't windy and sometimes if it was to HTFU. I would often wear
my Peutereys and even my Makalus on occasion. Oh, and a loaded pack!
What a loser.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2016 - 04:29pm PT
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LOL, Reilly! Got Mountaineers? ;)
Did anyone ever hit on you? That was an interesting aspect of climbing there...
that and the noises from the ground-cover.
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Stone Cowboy
Trad climber
Livermore, CA.
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May 23, 2016 - 04:39pm PT
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that one at the trailhead of Princess Owatonna
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 23, 2016 - 05:14pm PT
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LOL, Mister E! Yes, at times I felt like a Chippendale dancer,
so to speak. Did you ever go towards downtown from REI? There was an
old sandstone building* there which had some wicked hard traverses on it.
*at Pike and Broadway IIRC
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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May 23, 2016 - 06:22pm PT
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candyland weird? first ascent was done onsight, without falls, with gear.
my weirdest? possibly wild thing.
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jonnyrig
climber
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May 23, 2016 - 07:03pm PT
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The social ladder.
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