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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 6, 2016 - 09:51am PT
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By their bleating ye shall know them...
The Sheep Buggerers
Baa baa baa
The sheep buggerers
Were on patrol
Who might they find?
We could not know
No cliff was safe
In J Tree land
What fate might bring
Or was at hand
Baa baa baa
Was what they sang
The Fish and Manx
And all their gang
God only knew
What happened to them
What their victims said
Was heinously grim
Baa baa baa
From round the bend
I kept my space
And my rear end
Guessing all to well
How things might go
What capture meant
Or would portend
Baa baa sheep buggers
Yes it's true
The sheep buggerers
Will gun for you
You'd better wise up
And play it cool
Keep your distance
Don't be a fool
Baa baa baa
On one fine day
There climbed some dudes
On a route that day
A top rope came
And I tied in
To climb to where
The crux began
Baa baa baa
Came from above
The cry for aberrant
bestial love
I passed the crux
And untied there
With two good jams
And a vacant stare
Baa baa baa
They cried again
That I might die there
Was no sin
The rope was gone
As nightfall came
I soloed up
And saved my name
Baa baa sheep buggers
Come for you
It won't bode well
When they catch you
You'll lose your pride
And virginity too
When they latch on
From behind to you
Baa baa baa
In distance yon
The buggerers
They now had gone
I'd crapped my pants
If truth be told
The price for pride
Out in the cold
Baa baa baa
Was what they sang
The Fish and Manx
And all their gang
And God knows what
They'll do to you
It won't be nice
That's all I'm saying
-bushman
04/06/2016
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Show me to the salt lick?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Yeah, them Buggerers™™ were out there! Craig Fry, their fearless leader, still posts here in the politarded threads. Quite a band of misfits he lorded over.
Craig created this chart a while back to show the lineage:
Lots of lore here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=211354&msg=1987668#msg1987668
Another weird twist is all the Sheep Buggerers, including their leader Craig Fry, were members of the Young Republicans based out of Pacoima, Ca. The chapter was eventually folded when the Buggerers revolted against their right wing leader and became mostly left leaning sackless slab climbers of no real note.
From another thread, some additions:
The Inflatable Man
The Human Drug Machine
The Simpleton
Doogan the Tin Man
The Frog
Dick Cilley, second in command to Craig
Tom Grimes
Kevin Powell
The San Diego Bent
The Almondjoybar Brothers
Doc of Shock
Brother Gaines
The Ruby DuLuxe
Doug the Slug Zeisner (2nd strongest man in the world)
The Schmutzfink
Herman the German
That one dude with the big hand... aka "The Hand"
Toe Tag Tom
Luke the Fluke
Karl; with a K
Nay Gro
Dave and Steve Tapes
Them girls that liked Mowtown....
The Old Ass Hippes,
The Bone Tipson or Nardson or Springs
and now by popular demand.... DAVE EVANS
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Illustrious list. I remember Dr. F regaling me with stories of Mr. Long's prowess, all the more impressive coming from a guy with Craig's level of fitness.
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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funny..thats in Lysefjord norway. damn sheep with bells all over. I'd bet they are all psychotic do to the constant noise, other than when they are still
kjeragbolten as they say
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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The Sheepbuggar Flow Chart was created by Russ
But it's completely accurate
Russ was/is the Sheepbuggar historian
Thank goodness someone remembers those great dayz with an eye for detail
don't remember the sackless slab climber part, you may have confused me with my brother, he loves those slabs
We need to organize a Josh sheepbuggar reunion
Can't wait to lord over my minions once again!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, bushman...
oh my... :O
say, my daddy, would have loved that shot...
he sent me the internet photo, once, of the GOATS on the dam wall...
(hope i used the right dam, oh my... ) ...
:)
hey there, lookingsketchythere, ... oh my...
sheep need wings, :(
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Slab climbing??
I tele ski slabs the same steepness as those slabs that some of these Josh climbers bolt up
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2016 - 07:14pm PT
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Hey there say there, sorry Mr Fry if I left you out of my poem.
I can write you back in as the Dark Overherder or Baaad Sheep Number One if you'd like...
My memories of those days are foggy at best, but still my dreams are haunted by the bleats of horror echoing through the JT Wonderland of Rocks in my head from BITD.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Yep, the lists seen above are bogus.
I myself am a proud buggerer and do not appear on either list.
Russell WTF??
At one point I was the patriarch of a proud household in SD with Freriks, Mooney, the Manx and Mike Casper in residence.
OK, maybe Jonny was the patriarch.
......and no Jeff Sewell and the Mims....oh the humanity!!!!!
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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BITD Maria C. took me on one of my first climbs in JTree, Double Cross.
Besides being terrified of heights, I was pretty much overwhelmed by the whole climbing scene, hanging with such great climbers.
As we made our way up the climb, topping out were two young guys, one with long hair and a headband. I thought it odd that they were bleating like sheep and asked Maria about it, I couldn't believe this was a common practice. "Oh, it's nothing, they're just having fun."
Well, OK, to tell the truth it kinda fit the whole scene back then.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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The Creech and her boyfriend E
The Boy toy
The Big Rock boys;
Dimes
Henny, or the Henster/Rooster
Keasy
Winkle
The School Boy Brit, Woody
Homo Joe
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Fun!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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LL remembers:
topping out were two young guys, one with long hair and a headband. I thought it odd that they were bleating like sheep Wow. Sounds like a rare sighting of the Sheep Buggerers' patron saint and defiant guiding light, Bud Scrimshaw.
We just knew her as Dorothy.
photo by Jeff Sewell
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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And let me tell you what,
The Buggerers totally raised the hackles of the nearby Stonemasters:
... Not because they were better climbers, no.
But because they were LOUDER, and had lots more fun.
And darn it, people LIKED them.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Slim (Angione) and I had a random encounter with several key buggerers in a coffee shop in Lone Pine a number of years ago. It was The Driver, Mims and ? We were goal-less and they told us they were headed for Charlotte. We instantly committed and had a grand old time climbing the classic in 2 parties.
I did have a horrifying experience when I woke in the middle of the night. Something was happening to my face and although laying on my back I couldn't see the stars, it was a moonless night.
I was finally able to choke/spasm out a shriek of terror and the creature pulled back. It was a buck deer licking my face!!
Can anybody ID the fellow third in line there?
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Can't do it
But will throw out a random name
The Manxy dude!
Looks like it was more than just a couple years ago
I see EBs
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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How about this guy
can anyone ID?
Might be too easy
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Ok, I've got no idea,
but some one fess it up. . .
who sent me up "loose Lips"?
yeah , still
It was probably Russ (fish) or Mike Paul (Watusi)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Third guy in the pic could be Ken Hamm (the shake bro) or Dan the Human Drug Machine. Either could have been with the Driver and Mims.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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He changed his name
now it's "The Fist"
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Looks like the lot that ditched PE all the time.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Gnomeoftoomanybasehits: Ok, I've got no idea,
but some one fess it up. . .
who sent me up "loose Lips"?
yeah , still
It was probably Russ (fish) or Mike Paul (Watusi)
Certainly not me, and I doubt it was Mike... Have you ever been to JT?? I mean for reals, not like tripping away on an astral projection thing while riding on a dragon with 3 vulvas and doing DMT through a curly straw all while wearing a rugby shirt and an aviators mask sorta thing? You know, like for reals, man.?.?.?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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No CF, not the Manx Cat and definitely not Doug (Moonie). We all lived together in SD, see Santee bouldering photo upthread.
I found this one of Boogleman in Tuolumne. I don't remember the route but looks tilted, the wrong way.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2016 - 07:56am PT
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My Rejection Letter
Crestfallen, I retreated yesterday to my musty greenhouse sauna to baste as sweat soaked the waves of grief washed over my thick hide. Compounded by the awareness of nauseatingly revolting fumes from the adjacent dogs sh#t bucket, I could only think back fondly of my tenure there and the memories of all those years ago amongst the cactuses and yuccas along the gritty sun burnt trails of J Tree land.
Fond memories of huge puss glistened jamming scabs from the wide cracks of that place filled my mind. There was once the time I drove into Hidden Valley, after breaking up again with a Riverside girl I once was in love with, and en-route had ingested a huge quantity of shrooms which were cooking in my brain. I had sat there alone for uncounted hours devoid of all but my wayward spirit to guide me, when the regulars found me I was in an alarming agitated state, and many beers were required to calm me before a midnight run through the desert tired me enough to finally sleep.
Did I not become worthy the time the iron door cave was barred from outside for several hours to prevent my escape? Did not those spluttered bleatings of yore haunt my every dream to humble the tragic man child I once was? Or was it the latent domesticity that finally hobbled me, and removed all hope of initiation into their irreverent adolescent tribe?
But alas as the rejection letter signed by none other than Sheepnonymous fell to the gravelly floor of my pungent perspiration den, I finally understood I would never be eligible for membership to that shallowed crowd. It wasn't that my resume of drunkenness and debauchery were not low enough, nor were my transgressions against the brave and the bold not more than shameful. And my meager climbing skills were clearly of no merit.
There it was, bald faced and obvious. I held up the rejection letter in my grimy claw, and read again, "This reply is to inform you membership to the Sheep Buggerers is not considered due to the fact we've never heard of you...bla bla bla, such and such, bla bla," (end of letter).
-bushman
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 10, 2016 - 08:15am PT
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Russ,
Please give us a rundown on some of the many nick names for the "man with a 1000 names"
Bruckman
I know a couple, but to have a Russ list will be invaluable for historical purposes
I did 100s of routes with the man, including the "Romantic Warrior"
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 10, 2016 - 10:26am PT
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Thanks for the photos and the awesome fond memories of our youth. Still trying to figure out how I ended up on the list right under the Fish?? The only time I really climbed the Fish gave me a black eye....the Creature ;)
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2016 - 11:07am PT
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Name this mystery climber and win a free
'Buggered on Bastille Day' bumper sticker.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 10, 2016 - 11:17am PT
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doing DMT through a curly straw
Not sure he would appreciate that...I don't know, maybe he would?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2016 - 02:25pm PT
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Todd Gordon in pic??
LaWoman: No idea about a black eye, but anything is possible. Climbing is dangerous. Who are you?
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 10, 2016 - 02:30pm PT
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You'll be getting that free bumper sticker now.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 10, 2016 - 02:35pm PT
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Can't you read Russ
LaWomen is Vicky, Vic, the Creature, Creach
She is right below "The FisH" on the original list
Hey Women, how's it going?
What to come to our Sheep Buggar reunion?
It'll be at Russ's house
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2016 - 02:52pm PT
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Can't you read Russ
LaWomen is Vicky, Vic, the Creature, Creach
She is right below "The FisH" on the original list
I don't remember her... sorry.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 10, 2016 - 02:56pm PT
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Don't lie Russ, I think she took your V.
we all thought you liked boys, but she proved us wrong
Don't you remember the thread
"ANYONE know how to get in contact with E. Eriksson?"
She was looking to find her old boyfriend E
I wonder if they hooked back up?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2016 - 03:12pm PT
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Not ringing a bell... I would remember something like that. Maybe you have her mixed up with Jessica or Lynnie something? Ask Winkie. He might know.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 10, 2016 - 03:17pm PT
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I'll PM her and see if she took your V or not.
she can give us details about that night
That might bring up some memories
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2016 - 03:21pm PT
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I'm thinking this was more a Dave Evans thing than me. You just have your studs mixed up big guy.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Apr 10, 2016 - 07:27pm PT
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Stop foolin around and show some action shots with the sheep..or llamas...now...
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 10, 2016 - 09:13pm PT
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Hey Dave, V here. Did NOT takes Russ' virginity....we were friends at PCC. Started going out to JT with a friend of his, Derek Olin. E showed up at school second semester and it was all over...true love. We connected for the first time in 20 years. It was nice...hard to "hook up" over the Pacific Ocean though. I'm going to delete my account after this, but wanted to say muchos gracias to all for the great laughs that ST has brought me. I really enjoy the photos. I'd like to come to the reunion, can I bring E? Aloha, V
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 10, 2016 - 09:29pm PT
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Oh yeah, Russ knows who I am....he's one of the biggest bullshitters I know.
The buggers were 18 when I met them out of HS. Russ hasn't changed much from what I read...did he ever have children??
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 10, 2016 - 10:08pm PT
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I have no idea who this cray cray LAWoman is... probably some wacked out sheepbugger groupie. There are many. Everyone wants a piece of BITD winner pie.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 11, 2016 - 06:28am PT
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photoid=385222
perhaps a wallet or two?
designs by the fish factory - aren't in the cards.
my idiot beginner, while paying me for advice, did not take it
bought a crap metolius, instead
sorry Russ
sincerely (really I do mean IT)
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2016 - 07:32am PT
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You forgot something...[ ]
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 11, 2016 - 08:19am PT
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Must store for historical purposes
L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
Apr 10, 2016 - 09:13pm PT
V here. Did NOT takes Russ' virginity....we were friends at PCC. Started going out to JT with a friend of his, Derek Olin. E showed up at school second semester and it was all over...true love. We connected for the first time in 20 years. It was nice...hard to "hook up" over the Pacific Ocean though. I'm going to delete my account after this, but wanted to say muchos gracias to all for the great laughs that ST has brought me. I really enjoy the photos. I'd like to come to the reunion, can I bring E? Aloha, V
L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
Apr 10, 2016 - 09:29pm PT
Oh yeah, Russ knows who I am....he's one of the biggest bullshitters I know.
The buggers were 18 when I met them out of HS. Russ hasn't changed much from what I read...did he ever have children??
The Fish has children, they got big ole red melons for heads
Hey Russ, when should we come over for the reunion?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 11, 2016 - 09:45am PT
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I found one more of The Manx and I bouldering at Santee. My famous dog Washoe on top of the boulder. He would always meet me on top. Washoe was a sheep buggerer as well.
Washoe was the author of the "Worlds Hardest Dog Boulder Problem." It's out near the Comic Book. What a stud!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 11, 2016 - 09:49am PT
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Everybody loved Washoe
Why did Vic thank Dave?
did you also send her a PM?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 11, 2016 - 10:15am PT
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Hi Vickie, glad to see you are out there alive and well.
I always liked you and thought Russell's behavior towards you was appalling.
But then, he was just jealous of Erik.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 11, 2016 - 11:01am PT
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 11, 2016 - 03:41pm PT
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Sorry Craig, that post was thanking you...have no idea why I wrote Dave :(
Not deleting acct. until everyone has read. Thanks for the post dee, I think I always liked you too...who is this?? Russell knows who Vikki is, he's still just a big ass bullshitter...hey fishy, fishy, fishy. Ying says HELLO!
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 11, 2016 - 05:16pm PT
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Hey Sewellymon, Jeff, I really like the pic of The Driver and Russell in the van...lots of great memories of those boys...what is Moonie up to? How are you and where are you these days? Aloha, Vikki, The Creach
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 11, 2016 - 06:33pm PT
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I will look for the classic shot of the Driver and son peeing in unison.
Got it!. Such a classic father and son shot.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 11, 2016 - 06:58pm PT
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My long lost twin brother was named Dave
Dave Fry
Not sure what happened to him
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2016 - 11:02pm PT
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Here, I fixed it for you, Gnome.
Your welcome...
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Gary
Social climber
Where in the hell is Major Kong?
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Apr 12, 2016 - 07:20am PT
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^ Is that Cranny?
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 12, 2016 - 08:21am PT
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A Google search on Russ Walling brings up a slew of great stuff
Including photos galore
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 12, 2016 - 10:19am PT
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Hey now,
Don't be including me with that unsavory bunch.
I never made so much as a single bleat!
And I was all about tying in with E at the time.
The Buggerers, so named by Lechlinski, were only a few people:
Russ Walling a.k.a. The Fish
Doug Munoz a.k.a. The Moon Fuzz a.k.a. Moony a.k.a. The Fuzz
Greg Byrne a.k.a. The Driver
Karl Rundi a.k.a. The Boxer (probably never made any silly sheep noises either, way too much of a man's man)
The Manx (really their mascot)
The Joe Boys were:
Jeff Sewell
John Freriks
Larry Stone
Dave Bruckman
Joe Hedge
Roy McClenahan (and I broke with that ship, but fast!)
Forget about David Evans and Craig Fry, both solidly ahead of the Buggerer curve.
They are really more an extension of the Stonemasters, belonging to what could loosely be called the second wave, or the Stonemaster middle period.
But, along with Vogel, and hailing from behind the Orange Curtain, they prefer to be known as the B Team or simply see themselves belonging to the loose confederation of: Not-a-Stonemaster.
All Gospel!
Werd to the faithful!!!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 12, 2016 - 12:50pm PT
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Wow
Are you saying I wasn't a sheep buggerer?
what kind of heresy are you speaking of...
What about the flow chart???
and the official list of buggarers!
We just made DE a honorary member, does he still deserve it, now with these new revelations!!
This is all DE's doing from the start, ~10 years ago, but I accept all responsibility.
We need more photos!
We weren't the B Team
We were Team B.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 12, 2016 - 01:19pm PT
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No Crag, I mean Craig, no, no, no. You just weren't and aren't a Buggerer. Same for Dave, I'm sorry to say.
Those guys WERE really good at sounding like sheep.
One time I went into their site, next to Caveman, and they were all bleating away.
It sounded like a PETTING ZOO. Totally cracked me up!!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 12, 2016 - 04:30pm PT
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Even Karl would want that corrected.
He didn't get it clean. But it is WAY cool that he went up there for a crack at it!
[I see you edited "Send" out of your post. Good man, as Karl would say.]
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 12, 2016 - 08:06pm PT
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Vintage late 70s/early 80s Buggerer happenings recorded by Doug Munoz!
The Driver belaying The Boxer on Billabong:
(can the reader detect some excess tension in that cord?)
*Note the Tarbuster constructed blue and red chalk bags.
A direct ripoff of the Mari design. She didn't care, for real.
(Makin' chalk bags! Yay! Great idea as a hobby, horrible idea as a way of life …)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2016 - 08:34pm PT
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2016 - 08:41pm PT
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I think this is original Sheep Buggerer member Mike Pope on Latin Swing in JT
Went all CSI on the pics... this one of me is the same route, same rope, same era, same pic angle.... Good Lord and Hail Satan! I bet it was the same day!!! I must have only had one shirt back then as this is the same outfit I had for the Do Or Fly pic earlier in the thread, save for the orange Hendrix pants.
Who took these? Swelly?
Edit: And LaWoman, I still don't know who you are. Maybe a vague memory of a blond girl, kinda heavy? Hung out with Craig Fry when he was the "Tall Sleek Neufie" ??
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 13, 2016 - 06:23am PT
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Pope's swami is as close to the one I used on El Cap in '74 and JT in '73 as it can get.
Cowboy Larry had one, in '73, and I got mine made identical to his.
I forgot who he had sew them up. Mighta been Donna Pritchett.
I got Marti at The North Face repairs department to sew me up a new one for the Captain.
I didn't know a thing about leg loops yet.
I needed a Robbins butt bag to deal with the cleaning duties on aid.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 13, 2016 - 07:13am PT
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Here's Moony's Effigy Too companion photo to the Halfway to Paradise Walling lead shot.
Maybe a year or two earlier?
Fish, Boxer, & Driver.
I thought we figured out who the blonde guy was?
Maybe even Bushman?
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 13, 2016 - 08:19am PT
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Dick Cilley, second in command to Craig
Seems like a fun bunch of juvenile delinquents, but if Dick Cilley was really second in command, it's just as well that I went back to school.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 13, 2016 - 08:23am PT
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Dick wasn't really a sheep bugger, he was way too worldly
Spending his summers in the valley, other times in Arizona or El Paso
Not like us locals, it was Josh 10 months a year
We need to all chip in and buy him some manly glasses
Those old lady specs make him look a little diesel.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 13, 2016 - 08:40am PT
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David Evans, feeling the shame ... hiding down below the border, shortly after Mooney finally laid it on him:
"Sorry dude, you'll never make the cut and become a Buggerer, not with those pipe cleaners for biceps!"
Deee down at the Throne, Munoz photo.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2016 - 08:40am PT
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Blond guy is Luke Stong... granny killer. And that was his high point.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 13, 2016 - 08:53am PT
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And my personal favorite from the MoonFuzz™ collection ...
The Driver, prepping for The Captain & so proud he can hardly stand himself,
... with Debbie Kiefer backing him up like a model from a Coca-Cola commercial:
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 13, 2016 - 09:01am PT
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^^^^ If he left the ground and left her to the wolves then he was an idiot.
Apparently he had no grasp of natural selection.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 13, 2016 - 09:03am PT
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hahahaha
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 13, 2016 - 09:06am PT
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Look at that pile of EBs
I was in line for a little Kiefer,
she fled the scene before I made the cut
Hot climber gold digger wanted the King!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 13, 2016 - 09:16am PT
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I think this is original Sheep Buggerer member Mike Pope on Latin Swing in JT
Hi, I have to disagree... Mike Pope was not a sheep buggerer.... He started climbing the same time as I did.... 1973. We went to a bunch of BBQ's together while you boys were still in kindergarten. Now I do admit to helping to corrupt some of you boys by supplying liquor/drugs and I do remember showing you all how to get a chick into your tent for the evening.
Just to keep everything correct.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 13, 2016 - 09:19am PT
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There is little room for the voice of reason or historical accuracy here, Guy.
But for the reader who demands it, you da man!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 13, 2016 - 09:24am PT
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Doug Munoz ... definitely got the memo on what to wear to be 70s period correct!
Clean and Jerk:
photo, Munoz collection
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 13, 2016 - 09:26am PT
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Hey Guy
get with the program
It's sheep buggerering slander here
I don't remember any girls, except the creach, margy, Kelly, Jessica, Maria, lynne and Mari
and they were sheep buggereering as well, so there was never any tent action as far as I can remember
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2016 - 09:43am PT
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Looks like Keifer is drinking Coors! +10 for that.
Fry was never in line with any of them women. Word on the sand was he was "into" men and low angle slabs. Neither of those was a Bugger favorite. Pretty well known facts at the time.
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Karen
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ ~ God's country!!!!
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Apr 13, 2016 - 09:45am PT
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Any of you guys have pics of Nay gro?
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 13, 2016 - 09:58am PT
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My tall blond wives will have to disagree Russ
Kiefer would have been a step down, but I was young
I do drink Coors, so that is a plus
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2016 - 10:00am PT
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One time at JT camp, before I had any guns, I was leading way over my head and almost died on Clean and Jerk.
Meanwhile Bachar was doing flawless laps over on the Beaver...
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 13, 2016 - 10:01am PT
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Hacky Sack and Intersection
We would do Mike's Book's every time we were there, 2 or 3 times some weekends
With the second pitch Bill O Bong finish
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Apr 13, 2016 - 10:19am PT
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Nice poem, Tim!
I recommend the Lake District in Wales for a SB climbing trip. Can’t swing a cat without hitting a sheep there. Blakey was kind enough to show me around a few years ago.
I read a good book on the subject recently, The Shepard’s Life, by James Rebanks. The author grew up on a farm in the Lake District and had little formal schooling, but read a lot. Somehow he got into Oxford, graduated, and was offered jobs in finance, but decided to return to life as a shepard.
A must read for all SBs!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 13, 2016 - 10:34am PT
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Karen asked:
Any of you guys have pics of Nay gro?
Here's my favorite portrait of Pat Nay from back in the bad old days:
(We really gave him hell BITD ... He was ready to mash that camera into my face!)
C'est Moi, on Pat's namesake route, Naygris Penis Pillar:
1987 and STILL using a swami...
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2016 - 10:36am PT
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My tall blond wives will have to disagree Russ
Classic case of overcompensation there Craig... after all those years of you gargling man shank it is no wonder you went far to the other side later in life... you know, to try and even it all out.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 13, 2016 - 11:01am PT
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Eeyonkee surmised:
Seems like a fun bunch of juvenile delinquents, but if Dick Cilley was really second in command, it's just as well that I went back to school.
Well, no late 70s/early 80s Josh retrospective is complete without this dandy:
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 13, 2016 - 11:28am PT
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If there was ever was one to make a hetero turn, it would be Dick (I think he told me that).
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2016 - 12:11pm PT
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Assorted Buggerers in their natural environment:
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 13, 2016 - 12:47pm PT
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Craig, none of the chicks on your list are buggerers! Most of the ones you mentioned were classified under "hotties", except for me of course the non climber. After the Fish gave me a black eye I was done. Russ still claims he doesn't know me, but as WE ALL know he is BS'ing...probably doesn't want to explain to the wife about all the groupies. E was not a bugger either, HE was a HOTTIE and could blow any of the buggerers out of the water and they knew it. When I met him he was hanging with the Stonemaster's...many fond memories there. Thanks again for the great photos Fishy and everyone. Aloha
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2016 - 12:52pm PT
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Kevin Powell told of some groupie chick that said, "oh the Moon is soooo long and fuzzy". I think that might be how he came to be called the MoonFUZZ. Can't remember her name though. Might have been the Old Ass Hippy?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 13, 2016 - 01:36pm PT
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... E was not a bugger either, HE was a HOTTIE and could blow any of the buggerers out of the water and they knew it.
Very true....
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2016 - 01:53pm PT
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E caught one of my longest falls in my second year climbing, 50 ft tumbler off the top of Jonah up on Tahquitz. Shirtless with a hip belay he got pretty good rope burn and must've yarded in some rope fast 'cause I stopped 5 ft above the ledge he was standing on, saved my ass, and I'm grateful to this day
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 13, 2016 - 02:29pm PT
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RIP PAT
Bushman, great photo of E. I remember looking into those pretty blues....
E is still da man from what I understand. Floods of awesome memories. THX
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2016 - 02:59pm PT
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Hi Vic,
Guy posted that pic of E. I remember meeting you that time I drove down to go climbing with Eric in the Needles in the mid-80s. Don't think you were so happy to see him go, ha ha. Shows how much you cared about him. You seemed like a nice lady. Last time I saw him was about 25 years ago down in Owens River Gorge. Guess he's still crankin hard after all these years.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 13, 2016 - 03:13pm PT
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Sorry Bushman and THANK YOU Guy for the pic of E.
Bushman, vaguely remember the Needles climbing times. Everything before children seems to be a blur...I'm really going to delete my account, but I
really enjoy the photos and memories ; ) Aloha, Vikki out
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Karen
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ ~ God's country!!!!
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Apr 13, 2016 - 05:05pm PT
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Thanks for posting the pics of Pat!
Jeff cause of Pat I met you!!!
Lastly, rumor has it that E is good in the sack:-)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 13, 2016 - 05:53pm PT
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Being a San Gabriel Valley bunch,
Stony Point was a common target for Buggering!
The Muskelunge on UFO:
photo, Doug Munoz
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Apr 14, 2016 - 07:55am PT
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hey Tim
what about....snakes in the cornflakes?
remember that incident? Bringin back memories
cheers all
EE
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 08:46am PT
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As to the identity of the David Evans/Charlotte Dome mystery man ...
This is definitely Ken Hamm.
He and Joe Kiss rented a house on Sierra Madre Boulevard in Pasadena, near where it bends South, after crossing under the freeway. Technically, it may have been a Corson Street address. Then Karl/The Boxer took Joe's room. I rented a third room in the house, staying with Karl and Ken for a period of time around 1981 or 1982.
Joe was a union house painter and had painted a 2 foot high gray silhouette of a climber coiling a rope, standing on the thick gray craftsman style floor trim of the living room of our climber's pad. His inspiration was taken from a classic silhouette which can be seen on the cover of Gaston Rebuffat's THE MONT BLANC MASSIF, The 100 Finest Routes.
So, speaking of silhouettes, I recognize Ken's profile in the picture above. I see his sloped chin, his sideburns, and the way his brown hair stood up in a haphazard bouffant.
Also, I made that pack he is wearing. Russ and I rented a Consew industrial sewing machine from a friend of my mother's. It was a mess, and Russ, being very good with mechanical stuff, figured out how to get the timing right, but it was funky.
After that, spring of 1982, we rented a better machine and wound up procrastinating with our allotted time. We pulled an all-nighter to finish all the packs and haul bags we would then take to Yosemite, so we could sell them for lunch money. At 2 AM, we were on our last needle. Bullwinkle deemed everything sewn after 10 PM pure crap!
I'll never forget the burgundy fabric which you see on that pack in the picture. Sewed up a variety of custom (read: prototype/experimental) packs and haul bags with that burgundy Cordura. In the pack Ken is carrying, I was trying to replicate the contour of a Karrimor Whillans Alpinist rucksack.
I had pulled the pattern from Marco Milano's Karimor. Marco hailed from the Sierra East Side. And no, Marco was definitely not a Buggerer either!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 14, 2016 - 08:52am PT
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apparently, Russ is spreading all kinds of misinformation
who exactly were the Sheep Buggerers?
who was the leader?
who did the most sheep calling?
and where is the damn list of nick names for Bruckman?
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 14, 2016 - 09:25am PT
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Karen, a MACHINE in and out of the sack ; o
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 14, 2016 - 10:47am PT
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I'm not seeing the "Roman Statue"
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 14, 2016 - 11:03am PT
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Craig, there are only 5 original buggerers:
Russ- The Fish (ring leader)
Greg- The Driver
Doug- Moonie, The Moon, The Moonfuzz, or just plain Fuzzy
Kent- The Manx
Karl- The German
All went to Pasadena High School and then on to Pasadena CC.
Many of the sayings came from black kids in Pasadena and T.V.
Russ was beyond hilarious in the day...lots of good stomach ache laughs.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 01:22pm PT
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^^^
What Vik said. Five of them Buggers, and that is that.
Hi Vikki, nice to hear from you, especially that bit you just laid on us about you and Karen! Ha ha.
Cheers,
Roy
*And don't bother deleting your account. I've already saved the whole thread to my hard drive!
I'll just reinstate all of your posts in one lump sum if you do. heh heh.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 01:34pm PT
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It's all you Jebus, roll with it!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 14, 2016 - 01:49pm PT
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Russ is still hilarious in person, and on the key board
But he plays hard ball when pressured
I kid that he looks like he's top roping Gunsmoke.
and in turn, his response is that Fry is chortling man flesh!
Wow
Tough crowd!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 14, 2016 - 01:56pm PT
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I kid that he looks like he's top roping Gunsmoke.
and that in turn get the response that Fry is chortling man flesh
I never saw the Gunsmoke comment.... the gargling and enjoyment of gargling manflesh by Craig was unprompted. Just the facts at the time. It's ok to be yourself Craig... no one except the Boxer cares anymore. He is still bent on how you claim the FA of the "Fry Problem" when everyone knows the Boxer did it first. He may never get over it, or your roaming hands on the torso of his youth at Dennys.
I still don't know the lawoman, but always glad to hear EE is quite the jackhammer in the sack. That is what the Driver told me too... so it must be true.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 14, 2016 - 01:59pm PT
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Well if facts are what you're looking for, then I will have to set you straight
No man flesh has ever been man handled by me, I really like vagina.
Fry Problem? what year and month was the Boxer ascent?
We can check the records and compare the dates
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 14, 2016 - 02:18pm PT
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The Boxer did it on 3/17/72 my records show.
Anyway... here is some more buggery... stolen from Swelly I think??
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 02:22pm PT
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Jeepers, you feel that? Kind of warming up in here, what with all the excitement.
Here, I'll fling open the window for some fresh air and a few more pictures:
I give you The MoonFuzz, backed up by the MussWadd™™™Walling, preening for and firing Pinched Rib,
When it was still rated 5.7, felt like 5.9 -and was no longer referred to as Death Dike.
(lawn chair was happenin’)
The Moon, with polished aplomb, sauntering up Pinched Rib.
(prolly the only route they did that day: ask SewellyMon, they are his photos after all)
... a days work, well done.
Nothing more to see here, move along ...
photos by SewellyMon
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 14, 2016 - 02:33pm PT
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Tarbuster,
It wasn't about me and Karen, it was about E being a total STUD.
He warned me about you....now you've got my stuff on your hard drive.....
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 14, 2016 - 02:36pm PT
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Hey Russ, I didn't see you at the Coz Fest
what happened, too much sewing backlog?
The Boxer was 6 years old in 1972.
TMI, TMI
No more info on EE's prowess, please.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 03:31pm PT
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Oh shoot,
Sorry Vik, but it WAS a nice thought while it lasted.
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Karen
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ ~ God's country!!!!
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Apr 14, 2016 - 05:35pm PT
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Hey Craig, the prowess award goes to Naygro...
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Apr 14, 2016 - 06:59pm PT
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hey russ
yer pretty f*#ked up in yer head huh brah
wanna get your face beat
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 14, 2016 - 07:54pm PT
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Wow, I go to Mammoth for a couple days and the thread takes off!!!!
AWESOME!
Love all the photes especially of Pat and Larry Loads.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 08:06pm PT
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Me too.
Here's one of my favorite so far:
A model of concentration. I might even buy a used car from this guy!
photo, Dave Evans collection
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 08:11pm PT
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And this one,
Bar none, the best picture I've ever seen of E!
photo by Guy Keesee
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 14, 2016 - 08:16pm PT
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Google "sheep buggerers" and the second photo is THIS!!!
nothing about team B
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 08:20pm PT
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And let's face it,
Everyone featured on this thread drank heavily from the very deep well which these guys dug!
sorry, I stole the picture, so don't have attribution just yet.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 14, 2016 - 08:22pm PT
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Stop the Presses!!!
further Google search came up with Gold
Tarbuster doing some buggerering
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 08:28pm PT
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Oh my gosh.
I was told there wouldn't be any cameras!
I totally would've wore my nicer hat.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 14, 2016 - 08:31pm PT
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It's cool dude
we will just have to add you to the list of real Sheep Buggerers
I noticed you were trying to weasel out of the truth by listing everyone except yourself
but now, there is no escape from it
What were you drinking?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 08:39pm PT
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No worries Craig!
If that's the most questionable list I show up on, I'm good to go ...
I like to say: let them slander me all they want, the truth is MUCH worse!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 09:13pm PT
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And back by popular demand, well sort of back, Pat Nay ...
All bright and shiny, during the 2006 Stonemaster reunion:
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Karen
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ ~
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Apr 14, 2016 - 09:20pm PT
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With his favorite brand of beer!!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 09:34pm PT
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Also from the 2006 reunion,
Larry Loads and Frer-Bear:
Really now, aren't they completely huggable?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 09:56pm PT
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And here's a picture of a can of Fosters from the 2008 reunion ...
With its caretaker, Pat Nay:
photo by Todd Gordon
Charles, Pat and Todd, same party:
photo by Lynne Leichtfuss
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 10:12pm PT
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During the 2008 reunion, The Boxer leading The Flu:
On the summit of Chimney Rock,
Karl Rundi a.k.a. The Boxer and Tarbuster:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 10:17pm PT
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Now we've come full circle.
Just who is responsible for naming the Sheep Buggerers???
Why, the guy in the middle, that's who ...
Bullwinkle, Mike Lechlinski a.k.a. Mo, and Tarbuster:
(And The Fish called him Molinky because that's how the black kids at PHS would've pronounced his name ... not even kidding here)
photo by Lynne Leichtfuss
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2016 - 10:20pm PT
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Don't know why but the Flu was one of my early leads at JT and it seemed way hard and scary at the time. Never went back on it again. Maybe it protects better with cams but I remember being wigged on lead.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 10:22pm PT
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Yes, I think it took something like a number eight stopper sideways?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 14, 2016 - 10:30pm PT
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So, if you happen to find yourself out where the cactus roam,
And you want to track some Sheep Buggerers, just find Craig, and he will point the way!
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2016 - 10:58pm PT
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How did Russ get 'the Fish' nickname anyway?
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2016 - 04:13am PT
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Was it the fish face, like an angry carp? Or perhaps for other reasons? Bait for the Manx. A little fishy cat treat. Curious but not yellow, ah the subtle art of deflection.
All fish sheep diet make for stinky sheep pie. Dont step in it, now I'm asking for it.
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dickcilley
Social climber
Wisteria Ln.
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Apr 15, 2016 - 07:10am PT
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So last night I was sleeping in my tent on the Dorset coast.I woke thinking a badger was trying to steal my food.As I squinted into the darkness I realized that a baby lamb had crawled in under the tent fly. Too bad there weren't any buggerers there. What an opportunity.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 15, 2016 - 08:02am PT
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A couple photos from the last Sheep Buggerer Reunion
Bouldering at the Pumpkin Patch
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2016 - 10:48am PT
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Bushman asked:
How did Russ get 'the Fish' nickname anyway? Was it the fish face, like an angry carp?
Maybe later.
But I'll tell you what, Mooney knows!
This thread needs more pictures of Douglas Munoz.
From the 2006 JT reunion:
Climbing in the Flatirons, later that year:
The Fifth Flatiron:
The Dome, Boulder Canyon:
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Apr 15, 2016 - 10:51am PT
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The origin of the Fish moniker... a classic tale.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 15, 2016 - 11:31am PT
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Swelly.... a step in the growth of one man.
Keep the pictures coming.....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2016 - 12:53pm PT
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Mooney and The Boxer and I started climbing in 1974, when we were 14 years old, on Goldline.
This is way before we could drive, so our maturation as climbers was slow. And for a high percentage of that, through summer of 1977, it was just Doug and me, and still we didn't drive.
In late 1977, I started climbing with Larry Stone and Jeff Sewell and John Freriks. Larry would pick me up at Arcadia High School on Fridays in his big brown Dodge Power Wagon. I did the Joe Boy thing with them pretty solidly throughout the spring and summer of 1978. Also got roped in with Keith Cunning and the Uplanders at that time.
1978 was the year Craig Fry was deemed Rookie of the Year by his peers, which included not just Team B, but the remaining Stonemasters and their immediate disciples.
Fall of 1978 through spring of 1979 I really started branching out and although still doing some first ascents with the Joe Boys, I started climbing more with other people, first with Darrell Hensel, then, Erik Eriksson, Charles Cole, Kevin Powell, Lynn Hill, Dave Evans, Nick Badyrka, and Guy Keesee. Lots of bouldering and top roping with Bullwinkle, Bachar, Long, Mike, Mari, Yabo (... and soon after that, much partying with the Beatles and the Rolling Stones).
One of the main reasons I got out ahead of Munoz and The Boxer and started climbing with Larry, Jeff and John... and then E and others, is that Doug was doing varsity track & cross-country all the way through Pasadena High School graduation in 1978. From 1977 forward, I was only interested in rockclimbing and I was dedicated.
Russ Walling didn't enter into it until he bat-manned the rope behind Munoz on Sundance at Suicide in 1979, virtually as a non-climber. Ed Kaufer (an Uplander) and I climbed The Nose and the Steck Salathe just a month or two later. Bullwinkle and Mari and Lynn were just starting up the wall as we topped out on El Cap.
The Fish rose quickly. The Sheep Buggering thing started sometime after that. Erik met the Buggerers on the PCC campus, playing hacky sack in 1980 or 81. By 1981 and 1982, most of the separation of these different groups had melted away, and we were one big community of fairly seasoned climbers. That's when I started climbing with Russ.
Mooney and I got together just last year to recollect some of these things. Jeff, Erik and I have also looked into these timelines.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Apr 15, 2016 - 01:23pm PT
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Apr 15, 2016 - 01:30pm PT
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Check out the old school quick draws
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2016 - 02:11pm PT
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Jack Marshall a.k.a. Tripper Jack,
Working it on the Big Stone:
photo, Doug Munoz
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2016 - 02:23pm PT
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Erik on Chisholm Trail, Suicide:
photo, Doug Munoz
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 15, 2016 - 02:31pm PT
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Thanks for the photo of TRIPPER on the big stone.
This all brings back the memories that have now become so blurred... it was PRE-KIDS after all. (to Quote LA Women) And you are correct about the different factions blending into just one scene... by the late 70's I was starting to branch out and climb at many different spots around California, The Needles, Sequoia and the Mammoth Lakes area.
Ice camping with Nick.... 1979
BY 1984... I had a family who got most of my time....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2016 - 04:11pm PT
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Photos taken during my tenure with the Joe Boys, in 1977:
A very young Tarbuster:
On the descent from a new route in Indian Cove, Euhedral:
All photos, Larry Stone
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2016 - 04:14pm PT
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Awesome photo of Keith Cunning (leader of The Uplanders), John Thacker, Mike Lechlinski, and John long, 1978 or 79:
photo, The Uplander
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2016 - 04:16pm PT
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Photos taken during 1981 or 1982, when I started climbing with Russ:
Tarbuster and The Fish, horsing around at Turtle Rock:
photo, Shawn Curtis
Tarbuster, Jessica, Russ Walling and Mike Paul kicking the sack with Dick Shockley:
photo, Shawn Curtis
Tarbuster, Crime of the Century:
photo, Russ Walling
The Fish, Desert Song:
photo, Walling collection
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2016 - 05:52pm PT
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A highlight Buggerer moment,
The Manx, really their understudy or even mascot, leading Taxman:
photo, Russ Walling
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 15, 2016 - 06:30pm PT
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Tar, WOW thanks for all that.
I wish I still had a decent slide scanner.
I may go back into the deep depths of the slide archives and pull out some gold.
.....and thanks for the shots of John (Freriks), what a frickin' stud.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 15, 2016 - 06:51pm PT
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When Doug (Mooney) and I moved into the house in Santee (84?ish) with John Freriks and Mike Casper I didn't really know Doug. Later Kent (The Manx) moved in as well. Also Mike's younger Bro John was there almost every night.
We started off a little rough and on one trip down to the "Belly Up Tavern" in Solano Beach with Greg Epperson and others to see the "Rebel Rockers" (?) I wanted to punch his effing lights out. He had a way of pushing your buttons till you wanted to burst.
Soon after that I learned to love the guy. I had my new dog "Washoe" living with us and for some reason I thought it was important to train him as an outside dog.
I learned later that those nights that I made Washoe stay outside Doug would let him in.
Doug had the outside "shack" as his bedroom.
It was something like 10 years later when Margy and Washoe were at Josh and Washoe ran over to a person in a distant group and started jumping up on him and just generally loving him. It was Doug! Washoe remembered him after all that time.
Here is a quickly scrawled story from those days.
"Dang Tar, the memories keep coming back. Yes I lost a rack AND a VW van in Mexico. The '66 van was a money pit. Before this episode I had blown my trick 1835 racing engine (that I had built in our living room in Santee)at Josh, so on this trip it was a measly 1600. It broke down and I had to leave it at the campsite after limping in. I returned a week later with parts, fixed it, enjoyed a weekend of climbing and headed home. On the way home I had another major mechanical and had to park it near La Rumerosa. Marge was escorting me back (after taking me down initially). I pulled all items of value and left it with no regrets. We saw it a couple of times after that and then it disappeared. To lose it was a blessing in disguise. That was the last VW I will ever own.
That Mooney shot is classic. That was the first time we did a route on The Throne. He and I went down with no beta in bad weather (at first). We were driving on a section of road in a wash and it was raining hard and , flooding, quite a bit. I missed where the road cut left out of the wash and then we were in trouble. The water was getting deeper and deeper and the water was shooting up over the front of the van, the van was starting to bog. It was too narrow to turn around and too soft to stop, I had to keep on the gas (as such is possible in a VW van). Just when we were starting to panic the canyon widened and there was enough room, I gunned it hard, bounced over a sandbar and pulled a u-turn, just barely making it. We found the turn and made it to the camp.
The next day the weather was perfect. We headed in to do the E. Buttress, all we knew is that there was a route there somewhere and it was 5.10 and may or may not have had aid as well. We started swinging leads and found the climbing tricky (multiple 5.10 sections) and the route finding even more so. I did quite a bit of aid on at least one pitch, we had no etriers or jumars. There were no topos. We saw no evidence of other ascents. Very late in the day we found ourselves coming up under a huge triangular roof in a dihedral that stuck out 40 or 50 feet. It looked like a total dead end. We thought we were f*#ked. We lucked out though and found a cave/chimney that tunneled through the roof and came out near the summit. We had done about 15 pitches.
It seemed like every time I went to do a big route there it was some kind of epic! Too much fun.
Yes Watusi, Guy Andrews was a bro. I haven't thought of him in a while."
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2016 - 07:31pm PT
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Epperson!
photo, Doug Munoz
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 15, 2016 - 07:32pm PT
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nick name
San Diego Bent
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 15, 2016 - 08:05pm PT
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Or just ... Eppi.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 15, 2016 - 08:06pm PT
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Wow, this thread is da kine. Taking me in the way back machine.
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Friend
climber
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Apr 15, 2016 - 08:47pm PT
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Man, Dave you're a great writer. Roy you too. More, pleeeeeeeeease
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 15, 2016 - 10:35pm PT
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There's gotta be a story here somewhere, Roy..?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 15, 2016 - 10:51pm PT
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Greg sure pumped a mean tank of gas
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 15, 2016 - 10:54pm PT
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Santee locals heard the LA invaders were coming, so we scorched the place
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 15, 2016 - 10:55pm PT
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Mount Woodson Welcome Wagon
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 16, 2016 - 09:45am PT
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There's gotta be a story here somewhere, Roy..?
Fish's van, mind-altering substances, quesadillas, frosted flakes.
I was hamming it up, extolling the salt-sugar speedball of the cuisine and Michael J Paul ... trying valiantly to keep a lid on it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 16, 2016 - 09:49am PT
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Before the Sheep Buggerers, before the Joe Boys, the San Diego based Scumbags were skulking around!!!
Bob Van Belle, Doug White, Guy Andrews, Galen Kirkwood, Mike Paul!
photo, Doug White
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christoph benells
Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
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Apr 16, 2016 - 12:22pm PT
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im confused, i thought this thread was about people having sex with sheep, is it not?
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2016 - 04:45pm PT
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Documented X-rays of a random selection of sheep buggerers shows no obvious abnormalities or markers that would account for the aberrant sheep perversions attributable to their tribe.
(Edit)
Later brain scans of sheep buggerers were found to have marked similarities to brain scans of the Nomadic Aboriginal Smoking Duck Tribes of Primordial Northern Europe.
(Source)
Log of American Medical Buggery of Sheep and Acute Severe Sociopathy
(LAMBSASS)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 16, 2016 - 08:47pm PT
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It's about time the Scumbags made the thread!
BVB, Galen Kirkwood and Kelly V. aka "The Troll"(my partner on the Zodiac).
Nice hat Bob!
Don't miss the tool in the background.
YAY, post 200 (Motels)!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 17, 2016 - 06:21am PT
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Props to RUSS WALLING, leader of the Sheep Buggerers !!!
Gotta hand it to him. Pretty modest guy, really. A subtle & gentle soul.
FISH holds up pretty well with all the public adulation:
Tarbuster photo. Manipulation by Willoughby.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 17, 2016 - 06:27am PT
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Tarbuster's on fire!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 17, 2016 - 07:46am PT
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 17, 2016 - 08:19am PT
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One word: MoonChero
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 17, 2016 - 08:56am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 17, 2016 - 10:19am PT
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Truly,
No serious historical treatment of the Buggerers would be complete...
... Without a good look at The Driver.
Originally, pre-Buggerer phase, he was THE BOXER's sub-man!
photo of Greg Byrne, GQ Magazine, January 1983
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Apr 17, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
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Since Tarbuster started including groups from San Diego, it occurs to me that the Poway Mountain Boys are not represented here. Then it occurred to me that the PMB really did end more or less when our charismatic leader, George Manson, died on Denali in 1980. I climbed one more season in Yosemite, then our group pretty much disbanded. The PMB missed out on the JT golden years, which were just getting started. I would have to think that Dick Cilley and "Clean Dan" Grandusky are the key links that connect the PMB to the JT golden years crew since they both hung out with us in our formative years. I would be interested in hearing any stories from guest appearances by the PMB - say, Piggott. I always love Danny stories - Cilley stories too, for that matter. Plot and personality (and creativity). That's what makes for a good story.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Apr 17, 2016 - 05:49pm PT
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Santee locals heard the LA invaders were coming, so we scorched the place
San Diego locals were the best, the burn just added to the place.
Tried of Santee there was always the beach
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 17, 2016 - 08:37pm PT
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The problem with San Diego was that nobody from there could actually pull. End of story.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 17, 2016 - 09:26pm PT
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photo, Russ Walling self-portrait!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 17, 2016 - 09:52pm PT
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Well, I've got nothing for the PMB.
Except that one day I was climbing at Big Rock with Kevin Powell and he was telling me about these various groups. He said, "Yeah, me and my brother are basically the BRB. The Big Rock Boys. Not to be confused with the PMB, Poway Mountain Boys."
Maybe Bushman a.k.a. Tim Sorenson will pipe in. After all, his brother was Tobin, a PMB.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 17, 2016 - 09:54pm PT
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Here's one of my favorite out-of-towner Josh shots,
Eric Ziesche clinging to some Loose Lips:
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2016 - 10:56pm PT
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I never knew Tobin was a Poway Mountain Boy until I read Bruce Adams writing about how they gave him an honorary membership. It's back on one of the Stonemaster or T. Sorenson threads I think. Maybe Bruce is reading here and can illuminate us as to the details. I haven't seen him post or heard from him for over a year. Last I heard he was up in Washington.
The SBs? Well, still totally enjoy the lifetime membeship, sans back problems, ha ha, ow!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Apr 17, 2016 - 11:04pm PT
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Good thread!
great Ranchero!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 18, 2016 - 07:08am PT
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The Big Rock Boys were:
Kevin Powell, aka Dimes, KP, some others
Tim Powell, aka Bugle
Darrel Hensel, aka Henny
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 18, 2016 - 07:33am PT
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Over 200 posts and no mention of Ranger Jan Dick???
Nope, don't need to be a Sheep Bugger to remember this guy. But, the SB's and Ranger Dick shared one of the great rivalries of climber/authority relations. Especially right in that Buggering sweet spot of fall 1979 and winter of 1980, the rivalry was so sweet!
Late one Saturday night I was standing by a warm fire with The Hotties, (the name given to the Stonemasters and their immediate disciples by the various groups of plebes), and out of the black of night we heard a jubilant and raucous band of SHEEP working their way up through the bowels of Intersection Rock.
The Buggerers were getting louder and louder, their cackling amplified by chimneys and chasms. Suddenly, a proclamation echoed off the monzonite rock formations of Hidden Valley, when they suspended their bleating for an outcry: "Ranger Jan Dick is DICK!".
Of course, it HAD to be said.
Then everyone in the campground heard the sound of beer cans rattling down some blackened chimney. The echo seemed to go on forever. Like that scene in Lord of the Rings where Pippin knocks a bucket and chains down an endless, echoing chasm in the Mines of Moria, only to awaken the wrath of a Cave Troll.
Jan Dick probably confiscated more beer from underage drinkers and more smoking paraphernalia than any Ranger in history!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 18, 2016 - 07:49am PT
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LOOSE LIPS!! So it was A Thing to send strong skilled out of towners on that horror show??!!!
and then ya' all got Toad Swine, as a Ranger replacement, hahah Ha
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:01am PT
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Hotties
Group shots
Not a single Sheep Buggerer
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:03am PT
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The Hotties, (the name given to the Stonemasters and their immediate disciples by the various groups of plebes)
I guess it didn't mean the same thing back then that it does now or those guys really liked the Stonemasters, NTTIAWWT
Some great old pictures
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:21am PT
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Russ, some hotties
and Russ's grown up son on the right
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 18, 2016 - 09:21am PT
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Ha ha.
A handful of cliques rose through the ranks, some unaware of the term Stonemaster. So the SMs instead became The Hotties.
In the late 70s, if you hung out with Largo and Bullwinkle and especially Yabo, the term was still in use and the concept was amorphous.
My favorite though, was the usage championed by Lynn Hill's brother-in-law, Chuck Bludworth: THE HAUGHTIES.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 18, 2016 - 09:36am PT
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^^^^^^ That's more like it...crackin me up
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 18, 2016 - 02:18pm PT
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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Apr 18, 2016 - 02:24pm PT
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Gotta love that squirrel sandwich. edited....now back to our sponsor
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Gary
Social climber
Where in the hell is Major Kong?
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Apr 18, 2016 - 05:04pm PT
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Jesus, Eric Ziesche looks desperate!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 18, 2016 - 07:02pm PT
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TAR, Did you see the shoes? on the klettershoe third.
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LOOSE LIPS!! So it was A Thing to send strong skilled out of towners on that horror show??!!!/
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 18, 2016 - 07:26pm PT
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Mr. F has forgotten one of the key players in the "Big Rock Boys" clique......wait for it....Dan Ahlborn.
KP should chime in here.
Loose Lips didn't quite qualify as a "horror show." At least before the big chunk fell off!
Many mortals climbed that baby.
Oh...and Russ...thanks for the shot of Dick Schockley!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:04pm PT
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He hasn't left us... Still kickin' ... last I checked.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:12pm PT
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Not a Sheep Buggerer, but I am sure his ancestors herded plenty of sheep. Dave Evans' dog Washoe was the bomb, One of the best dogs ever! Washoe saved our grow operation in San Diego when some assclowns tried to rip us off, his barking chased them off.
When Craig told the Fish, Yosemite the place to be, We packed into the Driver's van and headed to Tuolumne.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 18, 2016 - 09:29pm PT
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Mr. Evans,
Ditto on Dan Ahlborn.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 18, 2016 - 09:52pm PT
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The big thing which drove these various factions right up against the heels of the Stonemasters,
Was ... As everyone knows,
DIET!
But even more than diet,
At the top of the list was and will always be:
ATTITUDE!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 19, 2016 - 12:37am PT
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I suppose at some point the whole Scumbag saga/facade/brotherhood/insurgency could benefit from, at the very least, some type of documentation, or at least a plausible explanation. Our tiny band was very much apart from various LA crews. We'd roll in, knock out the hards in short order, consume vast -- as in standard setting quantities -- amounts of chemical enhancement products, then tick early repeats of some more latest hards in respectable times, then it was back to the MDA beer whisky pallet fires and so on. Our little group just sort of commingled with whoever was around and up for some drinking drugging and climbing. It is only in very recent years that I became aware of all the sets and subsets and sub-sub-sets of different posses with identities and nicknames and such. From '73 to '87, my busiest years there, my recollection is that groups of folks would just rally in the morning, somewhat randomly, and get out there hittin' the rocks.
We can take credit for giving Yabo his first dose on MDMA (he loved it, we wound up doing it every day for a week), and showing up Thanksgiving '83 with a 10 gallon trash bag full of shrooms that we gave entirely anyway, free by the handfull, keeping everyone in HVCG tripping for a week or more. But in the big picture, we flew under the radar. We were about big parties and big fun, and we really, really liked camping in the monument, so we were pretty much oblivious to the whole scene that revolved around Todd's house during those years. I needed a B-loop campground and a monster pallet fire and some all-night power drugs to make my stay complete!
The "who's who" lists were pretty much secondary to my relationship with the Jtree scene in the 70's and 80's. It was just super f*#king fun.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 19, 2016 - 07:44am PT
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Most of these cadres and their names were short-lived. Two or three years, and usually marking the coming of age of the players. And though they often comprised a group of 4 to 6 individuals, the names were usually meant as a joke. Robs Muir even says that about the Stonemaster marker.
One of the reasons the Stonemaster concept survived is because they (Long, Harrison, Accomazzo, Graham, Sorenson, Muir) were the first of our generation to step through the door and because that term became emblematic of a way of approaching climbing, a kind of what to do and how to go about doing it. The Stonemaster Zeitgeist persisted as the one way for about 15 years.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 19, 2016 - 10:56am PT
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An Accidental History: Masters of Joshua Tree
 Text accompanies Dean Fidelman's article including his photographs, from Climbing Magazine 2004 photo annual
Not so long ago, Joshua Tree National Park was an obscure national monument with nothing of the mystic aura that now lures climbers from around the world. It was an isolated outpost of pitifully small rocks where a few hard-bitten crag rats converged to wile away the winter months until the next season of "real" climbing in Yosemite. In the early 1970s, a tight group of climbers began haunting the area, defining the J-Tree scene of the day: fierce free routes, highball boulder problems, outrageous free solo ascents, and large-scale consumption of mind-altering substances.
John long formed the nucleus of the crew, and his discerning eye for local talent soon expanded the membership. John Bachar caught his attention after casually on-sighting Long' s cruxy Bearded Cabbage ( 5.10c) and was initiated into the circle. Soon, SoCal climbers John "Yabo" Yablonski, Mike Lechlinski, Mari Gingery, and Lynn Hill were roped in.
Bouldering was a favorite activity then, as it is today. "Long would tell us stories about this guy in Colorado named Gill," says Bachar, "about how dynamic climbing was the future. He also made up stories about this solitary boulderer named Oliver Moon. He'd point out some undone, near-improbable problem and say,' That's a Moon problem.' " The farce went so far that an early J-Tree guidebook featured an interview with a caped, shades-sporting Moon.
Bachar, hot on the heels of the Moon myth, produced a slew of real-life highball problems that included White Rastafarian, So High, and Planet X, which still intimidate (and bout) many would-be suitors. Treating the area's relatively short routes as extended highballs, he also initiated a tradition of solo ascents alarmingly near the area's free-climbing standard. Yablonski joined Bachar in the tradition, matching him ball for ball in boldness but falling far short in technical proficiency, producing some of the sketchiest solos ever in the sport's history, including a notorious knee-knocking lap on the 5.12 Leave It to Beaver. By the early 1980s the crew had largely dispersed, but the legacy lives on.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:13am PT
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Never any mention of Gordo or this guy,
Alan Bartlett , I've not found any other pics but this ,
I have a shot of him, on Silent Scream , This is It and It took all this Time .
Here is Katy and the climbSILENT SCREAM
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 19, 2016 - 11:32am PT
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Buff Alpine Club:
Jack Roberts, Dave Black, Mike Graber, Al Bartlett
Not sure of their inception date. Jack may have started climbing before Largo. I will be talking to Al shortly.
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Apr 19, 2016 - 02:45pm PT
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…the names were usually meant as a joke. Robs Muir even says that about the Stonemaster marker.
Pretty sure that only group that was serious about their moniker was the damned Sheep Buggerers. ;-)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 19, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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hahahaha
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 19, 2016 - 07:41pm PT
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That was probably the article by Alan Nelson a.k.a. The Spaced Ranger.
It's here on supertopo somewhere.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Apr 19, 2016 - 08:25pm PT
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Tarbuster...Up the arricept dosage..rj
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 19, 2016 - 08:41pm PT
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Exactly.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 19, 2016 - 08:47pm PT
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So, in which bucket do we fit Alan Nelson?
Probably too young to be a Poway Mountain Boy; but all of the Scumbags knew him.
*San Diego boys represent!
.......................................................................
The real trick was NOT to have a regular climbing partner and to climb with as many people, groups of people, and on as many types of rock as possible.
Exposure is a good thing. Did all the jazz greats blow with just one or two of the other fellows, or one ensemble? No way.
Walter Rosenthal and the Drywall Dogs
It's been awhile, I'm guessing circa 1976, back in a Kelty shop in Glendale CA, Vern Clevenger gave a slideshow on Mescalito and my teenage climbing pal, Douglas Munoz and I attended it like it was Christmas morning. At the time Vern was one of our heroes, given his defining legacy as a prime activist in Tuolumne Meadows.
To a certain degree, Vern used Walter’s good-natured presence on the climb as a comic foil for the story; partly due to Walter’s overall relaxed, good nature, (he said that Walter had a good book to read, just in case they decided to kick back for a day) and specifically because Walter chose to climb in Lowa Triplex, which was the standard high-altitude mountaineering boot at the time. Vern said Walter’s explanation was quite simple:” I'm going to be standing in slings, so what does it matter?” Vern had plans to try to free climb as much of the climb as he could, I don't think Walter cared so much about it and given the report of their ascent that proved to be a more applicable perspective. Vern had maybe one free climbing picture which Walter took of him laybacking an expando flake.
In spring of 1980 I moved to Mammoth Lakes, so I could pick up some mountain travel skills and be closer to Yosemite. I didn't know any climbers up there. I was buying a block of chalk in the pharmacy and Hugh Burton's wife, Kathy Dermitzakis, pegged me as a climber and introduced me to the boys: Marco Milano, Bob Finn, Chuck Cochran, Vern and Margaret Clevenger, Kevin Leary, and Walter Rosenthal.
At the time, Kevin and Walter were sharing a tiny Airstream trailer in the trailer park, out where the golf course now sits. Also there were Marco and Bob sharing a trailer, a nice guy named Jim, who in later years I got to work with at Tamarack Lodge and then Vern & Margaret together in a trailer, where I rented the second bedroom.
They all took me under their wing, which included employment on Bob Stephan’s hard-working drywall stocking crew. At the time Walter was primarily a skier, the rest of them shared enthusiasm equally split between skiing and climbing, but my time with those boys and my defining memories of Walter in particular, are all about the days of the “Drywall Dogs”.
Make no mistake about it: even though Marco was our foreman, Walter was our spiritual leader and Chuck was his lieutenant. These appointments were entirely impromptu of course, more a generation of character than anything else. On a tidy notepad in his pocket, Walter always had the immaculate count as to where the numerous sheets of drywall were to be stacked and he anticipated logistics. Walter was the science officer, (incessantly reading Scientific American), while Chuck, when not giving me sh#t for being young and bow legged, told uproarious stories in his signature drawl and sought to uplift team morale.
Every morning, we’d go to Schatzees Bakery, where Walt, smartly dressed in a dark blue short waisted jacket, wool pants, and stiff leather mountain boots, would see to it that we all had plenty of coffee, and he was the last person to suggest, “perhaps we need a few plugs for the road?”, a “plug” being a buttermilk doughnut, by weight and density, the highest caloric value doughnut a person could buy: essentially a gold brick of dough, butter and sugar.
That infectious laugh! One of the bigger jobs we worked on was Aspen Creek: this gargantuan palace, in its construction phase like the vacuous bowels of a medieval castle, with endless passageways, multiple enclosures and great lofts, was peopled with tough carpenters ambling proudly about with their nail bags dangling like six shooters. He and Chuck would get us to race down the long hallways, up the stairs in teams of two, gripping double bundles of 12’ 5/8" drywall sheets. This became entertainment: and Walt's resulting laugh was more like a hearty exhortation, a sarcastic gulping, it sounded like he was drinking in life with large throatfulls. We worked very hard and owing to the dynamic, cheerfully so.
When a friend of mine, a climbing partner, Jerome Carlian died that summer, Walt, not much of a drinker, bought two Coors talls and sat me down on lunch break to be sure I was okay and talked with me about it, looking after my sense of the whole thing and checked to be sure I didn't feel any guilt, a feeling which he said can be quite normal when one suffers the death of a friend.
About midsummer, Tom Carter and Allan Bard joined our team and the resultant dynamic expanded hilariously! Carter was always humming reggae tunes, while Cochran would cut him up about it and Bardini was just looking for a way out to get back to the guiding, which at the time was being done for John Fisher at the Palisades school. Also joining us was a very large black man named Marcus, who I later beat out in an eating contest, including ribs, corn, potatoes and pie. Little 135 pound Bob Finn could also out-work Marcus in terms of sheer load carrying capacity, which was really something to watch. Marcus knew we were just a bunch of crazy white boys.
In the fall, we all showed up for work one morning on a crystal-clear, beautiful day. Our collective tone was ambivalent; work energy low, appetite for the Sierra light and raging aspen's very high. Walt & Chuck held a pow-wow, then Walt quietly went over to confer with Bob Stephans. He came back and declared the successful outcome of a congenial mutiny! “We’re taking the day off boys; and we are first going to the Bishop Golf Course driving range (Chuck's bid), then we'll have a nice day hiking up Paiute Pass".
Since spring, we’d all been working so hard together and it was largely Walt’s sense of timing and care for the morale of his team that sparked a wonderful day of hooky together. We were all pretty stimulated by the end of the day, having swallowed two well spaced doses of psychedelic mushrooms … and we barreled down the trail from Paiute Pass en masse, running headlong through the aspens in a tunnel of brilliant red leaves.
Via Con Dios Walter,
Roy
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:03pm PT
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Good memoryTarbuster ..cancel the arricept...Was the nice guy " Jim" from Tamarack , Jim Catlin by any chance..? I remember meeting Leary on a new home construction project...We got to talking about ski racing and hit it off big time turning into training nazi's and driving to tahoe in our tired old jalopies...I remember that tiny flash-gordon style trailer that he and Walter lived in and remember seeing Walter for the first time walking down Old Mammoth Road with his sh#t-eatin grin...younger innocent times...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:11pm PT
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By every chance, John.
His wife's name was Ruth, right?
Really good people.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Apr 19, 2016 - 09:18pm PT
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Exactly..!
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Gary
Social climber
Where in the hell is Major Kong?
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Apr 20, 2016 - 07:10am PT
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Tarbuster, you're on a real roll.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 20, 2016 - 09:33am PT
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FOUR ON THE MOUNTAIN
Before the Buggerers, before the Stonemasters and to the day, exactly one year after the Miles Davis album Kind of Blue was released, I was born in Sierra Madre California, within spit-shot of the rugged San Gabriel Mountains, August 17, 1960. Doug Munoz came just four days later.
We were a gang of two for what seemed at the time our whole lives, seeking nursery school adventures and playing army man in back yards, side streets and vacant lots.
Munoz and Tarbuster, 1964:
Doug's parents, Andrew and Ellen, one hot afternoon in summer 1968, took us hiking in the local San Gabriel Mountains. First Water was the designation of a hefty goal for a children's hike. Steep trails cut through scrub oak and manzanita, and after a mile and a half, the path led us down into Little Santa Anita Creek.
Andrew and Ellen sat on the cool rocks beneath an oak tree, talking, handing out Wonder Bread sandwiches and enjoying the shade. Doug's sister, Diane, whom his parents called Sissy, joined us as we slid through a natural waterslide in the creek, formed by a tube-shaped impression scoured over thousands of years into the bright white granite of the watercourse.
The next year, Doug, Erick Dickson (the boy next door), and I decided to stretch out a bit and hike the entire Mount Wilson Trail, 7 miles and over 4500 vertical feet, to the summit of Mount Wilson, at 5,715'. We were all nine years old. It was in fact, Doug's idea. Doug's dog, Boo-Boo, one of those crouton-sized muts, people friendly and with long white and gray hair covering its eyes, would be our protector.
Between us we had a quart of water in a stale aluminum canteen, one baloney sandwich, and a single dollar. Doug's mother did not expect us to make it all the way to the top of Mount Wilson. We did.
When we got to the summit, we were totally blown out. The water had long been finished and our stomachs bore no memory of the 1/3 sandwich which we'd each consumed. We took the dollar to the summit snack shop. Between ourselves and the dog, we split a single chocolate doughnut four ways.
With the change from the doughnut purchase, we phoned home. Doug's parents, Andrew and Ellen, drove the twisty Angeles Crest Highway in their sky-blue 1964 Chevrolet Impala. They picked us up at the base of some giant radio towers on the summit. They were impressed with our fortitude and we were completely flagged.
A modern website describes the hike: "Oaks rule on the trail that goes all the way to Mt. Wilson: (It's very strenuous, so you'll want to work up to that)." But, without the internet and at nine years old, who knew?
It was easy to get car sick on that Angeles Crest Highway. About halfway down the mountain, Boo-Boo vomited his 1/4 doughnut out of the window of the Impala.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kind_of_Blue
http://www.summitpost.org/mt-wilson-trail/459826
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 12:15pm PT
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WOW Roy, you are on a roll. The entire time I was reading about Walter I was thinking I want to meet this guy, I'd really like him, awesome human being, to find out he is no longer with us. Eloquently written. Thank you. The post about you and the boys, hiking in the SG's, Andrew & Ellen, memories as kids doing nothing and everything, all outdoors (no devices) brought back floods of incredible memories. Bouldering in Snow Creek Village at the base of San Jacinto by the time I was 8 years old in our backyard at a cabin my dad built in the late forties. Thanks to our parents who allowed it and our generation who raised our kids to spend as much time outdoors as possible. Many memories of vomiting on the ACH also...."hey dad, can you pull over?" Delighting in the pic of you and Doug ; ) Thanks Roy for the posts and the great oratories. Aloha, Vikki (1960)
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Apr 20, 2016 - 01:25pm PT
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Roy,
Your portrait of Walt Shipley is vivid and excellent. I wish I could have gotten to know him.
I met Kathy D during the summer of 1978 when Sutton and Burton were building houses in Idylwild. I too was working in construction, but as a laborer, helping a guy build a cabin. Kathy and Gerry became friends, as they were both working toward their nursing licenses that summer.
Rick
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 01:32pm PT
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Great story Roy. I, too, was born in Sierra Madre (1958) My grandparents lived in Arcadia. They had a flawless light blue '64 Impala SS that I bought during high school. First hike was Henninger Flats.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 20, 2016 - 01:48pm PT
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The real trick was NOT to have a regular climbing partner and to climb with as many people, groups of people, and on as many types of rock as possible.
That about sums it up Roy. One found partners in Humbler Park, Stoney Point, Intersection Rock parking lot or at one of the few "climbing shops".
Really love the stories....and looking back now I realize just how good we had it in our own little world of climbing. I have friends, and after 43 years at this, who I still get out with on a regular basis.
Do you remember when E had a very clapped out Ford Econoline Van? The one with low compression. Everyone had to exit and push it up that steep part right before Humbler Park?
Fun Times.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 20, 2016 - 02:07pm PT
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Ha ha, good one Guy.
I had forgotten about E's van. A dirty white paint job IIRC.
I'm really glad you have stayed with us on this thread Vikki.
You were a real part of all of this.
Thanks Ricky! (Walt Rosenthal, not Walt Shipley)
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 20, 2016 - 03:29pm PT
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As I said before, we were there in the Josh Golden Years
It was like God rewarded us with heaven on earth
The real trick was NOT to have a regular climbing partner and to climb with as many people, groups of people, and on as many types of rock as possible.
That's what helped me become a real climber.
After my regular partners started losing enthusiasm (Kevin Watts, Matt Montgomery, Fernando Corona, Jim Dody).
I had to go on my own.
All I had to do was drive out there and hook up with a pack of locals.
The locals would sometimes car pool, but gas was so cheap back then that you could do a weekend on $10 which included food.
We would pack as many cars in a camp space that we could, we would all hang and party together, have big campfires after coming back from dinner in town, do hours of hacky sac, big boulder sessions, night walks or do some horror show like the great chasm w/o lights.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 03:43pm PT
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Yeah Roy, it's hard to stay away with the feel good memories that are better than an endorphin rush LOL.
Especially the fun times that Craig mentioned; hangin, partying, campfires, hacky sack, night climbs....I think my first climb was at night...didn't see enough to be scared. Especially the ones with E...
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 20, 2016 - 04:48pm PT
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Especially the ones with E...
More details required.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 20, 2016 - 05:03pm PT
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Truth be told
It was more of the hotty scene I describe, on the main loop.
Those Sheep Buggers and other assorted low life's were banished to the back loop
and would bug us from the "other side" with their incessant sheep calls, notably one red headed melon
Guyman and E were part of the hotty scene as well.
E got mixed up with the Sheep Buggers because they were all from the San Gabriel Valley, so he no choice except to interbreed with them.
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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Apr 20, 2016 - 05:37pm PT
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I think the car that we pushed was my green VW squareback
the van was a 1970 ford E100 6cyl which was yellow and the next one was a 1978 datsun longbed truck which was the dirty white one.
all had bad compression and I think I pushed all those vehicles...alot
EE
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2016 - 05:43pm PT
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I should have known this thread was going to take off the way it did. I'm still waiting for that 'fish origin' story if anyone is so inclined.
Wait...don't tell me?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 20, 2016 - 05:57pm PT
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The E100 1970 6cyl....the one I was driving, on Acid in Sequoia during a heavy snow storm with Floyd Blasting on the stereo, and I backed into a car-hard-in the Moro Rock parking lot. We took off when we realized the owner was nowhere to be found and with a foot of snow on it you couldn't see any damage......
...then you got the VW witch somehow lost the front hood...IIRC.
And Crag is sort of correct about the inner loop vs the outer (dirt-bag)loop, but by the later part of the 70's there were a lot of climbers going out and one of the smartest rangers ever started to let all of the climbers pack into the camping spots between the Old-Woman and the Blob....
he tossed out the stupid two car rule and let us stack park our collection of old cars - as many as we could fit. The only rule was this... "don't come running to me demanding to have cars moved because yours in packed into the middle..." so people started putting car keys on the tires.
The Blue Truck ..... 1992 or so.
Good Times
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Apr 20, 2016 - 07:34pm PT
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Roy, nice writing!
Who are these guys? :-)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 20, 2016 - 07:37pm PT
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I never rode in the yellow Econoline. That's the one I was thinking was dirty white.
The white Datsun. Seemed like the carburetor was never right on that thing.
Another LSD inhabited anecdote:
E and I headed out to Christmas Tree Pass in the Datsun and the stuff kicked in right about the time we arrived. I think Nick Badyrka might have been with us, kind of foggy on that one.
The dirt road was rough and got rougher the closer we came to the crags. With the climbs in view, we hit a gnarly ditch and something busted loose in the bed of the truck and a whole bunch of our water bled out into the desert sand.
Fully blazing, E led a couple of those routes and I followed. I thought the colors were really cool, but the crystals in the rock were pretty big and in places they were coming off like popcorn!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 20, 2016 - 07:43pm PT
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Doug said:
who are these guys?
Derek Olin, E, and Tim Sorenson!
................................
That Goldline photo is pure, well ... gold.
Probably our first trip to Joshua Tree in 1975.
Goldline and mountain boots. Not even PAs yet.
I weighed about 115 pounds. 15 years old.
The Bell helmet hat, not a riff on Henry Barber or Allan Bard, but a holdover from my motorcycle (riding) & sports car racing (spectating) experiences.
At one point I had Polaroids of us in Bailey Canyon in 1974.
All gone now.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 08:18pm PT
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Tim,
LOVE the painting of the Hawaiian outrigger canoe with Mauna Loa in the background and Pele flowing her lava hair into the ocean. That's where I live the Big Island.....
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
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Tim, shhhhhhh sex on the beach....
I remember the time I ran a stop sign out onto Topanga Canyon Blvd. in my Carina that was full of sheep buggerers....the Fish, Moon, Manx?, E and myself. Totally sober. It was Russ' loud sheep call that distracted me and a massive auto crash ensued. Got hit by a VW bug. Any larger vehicle would have killed me in the driver seat. We were heading out to Stoney Point. Don't remember if we made it are not.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2016 - 09:10pm PT
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Even though I don't remember the Lawoman.... I remember this event.
This cray cray woman was driving her turd colored car through the porn capital of the world and then just flat out leaked out onto Topanga Canyon Blvd at full speed.... blowing the stop sign like it never existed. Dude in a VW bug T-bones us (me, the Moon, and E as passengers) The impact pushes us across Topanga and into the center divide, minimum. I'm thinking, yeah... this ain't too bad.... at least we lived.. then the guy gets out of the bug and drops to the tarmac clutching his arm. At that point I knew there would be a delay to our bouldering outing.
So, cops. the whole deal. We eat the lunch we are packing on the opposite curb while the cops do their thing. Stoney is in the distance and we can even see it... After the report is given I kick the drivers door off the steering wheel to return its function and then we continue to Stoney to boulder. We crush them all...
After we leave, it starts raining.... I don't think we had a windshield but we were booking it on the freeway anyway heading home. I think I drove.... We dumped the rig at the CrayCray house and ran before her dad came out to investigate.
As an aside... there were no buggery noises or anything of the like to distract the driver. She was just CrayCray bro. Nothing more.
Good times!!!
Edit: I'd like to inject more facts to this thread, but I'm away from my pics and actually working from early AM to about now. Sad to say... yer kinda low priority right now.
Edit #2: hey, is that pic a ways up really the MoonChero™™™ or someone else's ride? That thing is sweet!
Edit #3: Hey! Check out Yabo doing the ButtonHigh!! (give it time to load)
http://www.fishproducts.com/movies/yabo_buttonhigh.mov
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 20, 2016 - 09:57pm PT
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I CLEARLY remember the very distinct sound of the Fishes voice bleating with an abnormally loud sheep call just before impact distracting me. Why am I cray cray Fishy?? Big hugs, V
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2016 - 10:02pm PT
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I CLEARLY remember the very distinct sound of the Fishes voice bleating with an abnormally loud sheep call just before impact distracting me.
FALSE. Lady driver surrounded by unbound testosterone in attractive packages. The outcome was inevitable.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 20, 2016 - 10:12pm PT
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You knuckleheads are forgetting "The Voice Of the Crags" Alan Roberts. Jeezus effing c......and one other main Buff Alpine Club character Rob Dillinger, boyfriend to the beautiful Debby.
Rob, Sibylle and I worked together on the famed "Mr. Pibbs" commercial, filmed out at the J. Trees.
It was rumored he was killed along 395 late one night due to his....."environmental stance?"
Fill in here.
Thanks Roy for the poignant memory regarding Walter R. He turned his trailer over to Sibylle and I on a number of occasions. That's when I was learning how to ski.
His death was a tragic event and one of Mammoths great epics involving others.
And yes E's vehicle of memory was the squareback. I remember riding from Humber to Idylwild and back sittin' in the front trunk area which had n\o lid. And smoking from the apple pipe while doing so.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2016 - 10:28pm PT
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I showed that photo to my wife and she enlarged it, I mean blew it up, made it bigger, sh#t, whatever...sent it to her phone and told me I looked hot, like a pornstar. What ever could the lady be thinking?
Must've been around 1981, I got really serious about climbing a lot more for several years after losing big bro. Too bad I wasn't as serious about brain cel or hair follicle conservation back then.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 20, 2016 - 10:40pm PT
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Tim, great shot!
That is how I remember you.
And , where the f is Big Al when you need him?
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2016 - 10:55pm PT
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Now the Goat Buggerers, I heard they'll eat anything. Any biters?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Apr 20, 2016 - 11:04pm PT
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Last post on the page-
Just wanted to say keep it up, loving this sh¡t
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Apr 20, 2016 - 11:47pm PT
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^^^Yeah, me 2.
FALSE. Lady driver surrounded by unbound testosterone in attractive packages. The outcome was inevitable.
your a bah-ah-ah-ah-d boy;)
HaHaHahahahaha
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 06:36am PT
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Another Munoz photograph.
Not sure what this is. My notes say "Poor Man's Cringe".
E:
Tarbuster and E, before climbing the Pan Am, The Throne, Canyon Tajo, October 1979:
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 21, 2016 - 07:27am PT
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This Thread is really cool I am enjoying all the old pictures of you guys.
After my regular partners started losing enthusiasm (Kevin Watts, Matt Montgomery, Fernando Corona, Jim Dody).
I had to go on my own.
Actually Craig you and I never roped up together we went hiking a few times and the one time that we went to Joshua Tree together it snowed like crazy I don't know if you remember we spent the whole time sitting in a cave burning. I was pretty sketched out at rock climbing at that point because of my experience with Fernando soloing, I figured I would stick with something safer like martial arts and surfing and it wasn't until the early to mid 90s that I met a guy that climbed extensively with Bridwell through work as a rigger that I was reintroduced to climbing and became addicted to it.
Jim Doty
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Apr 21, 2016 - 08:18am PT
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Dee Eee...I believe Rob perished ( 1990 ? ) when he rolled his truck north of Mojave on 395 in Red Rock Canyon ...He had just started a house for Joe Rousek , a llama rancher , in Aspen Springs .. Joe had to hire another contractor to finish the project...There's a spray painted memorial honoring Rob on the foundation stem wall under Joe's house...
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2016 - 10:51am PT
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Did an El Cap route (either Mescalito or the Shield) where two of our six gallons of water were formerly fabric softener and laundry detergent bottles. We didn't realize until we were well up on the route that no matter how much rinsing we had done before hand, the aftertaste of soap or fabric softener still lingered in the water.
Near the top of the route we had to resort to drinking from those two bottles and the one with the taste of fabric softener was almost unbearable. We figured out that drinking it while holding our noses somewhat mitigated the nauseating flavor. It's what we had to do to stave off dehydration, ha ha, and how we learned the hard way.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 11:39am PT
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Alan Nelson a.k.a. The Spaced Ranger a.k.a. The Kook:
Photo, Sally Moser
Mr. David Evans suggested:
You knuckleheads are forgetting "The Voice Of the Crags" Alan Roberts.
Alan Roberts a.k.a. Voice of the Crags a.k.a. Grandma Roberts!
Chillin' beneath the cottonwoods below Battle of the Bulge, Indian Creek, Spring 1983.
The Pontiac bench seat was still in situ! Anybody remember that?
(Al totally stiffs us on our reunions. Won't even return our calls. Billy Russell bumped into him in Red Rocks about seven years ago, said he looked fine)
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Friend
climber
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Apr 21, 2016 - 11:48am PT
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What and where is the Poor Man's Cringe? Looks like it could be a gem, hard to say from that photo
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 11:49am PT
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Then, Dave asked:
And , where the f is Big Al when you need him?
I just got a pile of guidebooks from Big Al in the mail yesterday.
Had him on the phone for quite a while prior.
In regards to the Internet he told me "I don't say much."
............................................
I'm also hoping someone will chime in about the Poor Man's Cringe
............................................
And no, that isn't the real Moon Ranchero.
But I understand Andy still takes good care of it, and aside from the wheels, it probably looks much the same.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
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Craig Fry, back when he was still called "GUNS"
Also, both Stahl Bros, Evans, Kelly, Mike Paul, Raker ...
David Evans and the crew, Humber Park, 1985
Featuring Kelly, Old Ass Hippie, Hensel, Marge, Pat Brennan ...
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 21, 2016 - 12:52pm PT
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A rare Robspierre (Bob Roback) sighting in there as well.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 21, 2016 - 01:20pm PT
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I have posted it before but I have never seen anyone bang off one arm one finger pull ups in webbing like Craig. Even the Fred Nicole stuff in masters of stone I believe wasn't as impressive although I believe Fred did it with his little finger...hmmmm... okay equally as impressive
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Apr 21, 2016 - 01:35pm PT
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The picture of Erik is taken at the campground for Turkey rocks in the South Platte which has great bouldering. I think this was during the summer of 1983? Erik and Vic were living in Boulder and they graciously let me crash at their place for a few weeks. Erik was working as a machinist at the time. Their Boulder place always had a stream of climbers dropping by; Todd Gordon paid a visit during his drive back to California from his job teaching on a reservation, we all went up to Estes Park to climb, Todd being Todd he instantly made new friends and we all ended up hot tubing and drinking beer at some girl’s house after climbing. Suzanna Bandana a climber from Oklahoma also dropped by, I remember climbing the Yellow and Green spur with her. She got the nickname because she had bandana curtains in her truck shell and she fabricated a few halter top from bandanas. I think she ended up living in San Diego for a while. Boulder locals like John Sherman, Pete Stears(sp) and Rolofson among others would also drop by, fun times.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Apr 21, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
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Best Thread in Years.
Great picture of Little Al. Bummer he refuses to associate with us anymore.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 21, 2016 - 02:12pm PT
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Friend
climber
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Apr 21, 2016 - 02:43pm PT
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Hacky sack hall of famers, where are they now?
Battey, Stahl, Evans (and progeny) still at it. Morro bay last summer.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 03:09pm PT
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Wow, some great stuff coming out here.
You can tell Dave Evans still has good hips: look at all that internal rotation he's getting on his femur.
I know about some of these things!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 21, 2016 - 03:10pm PT
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Mid 80s, 2 car per campground rule strictly enforced.
Was when "The Voice" was my best friend.
I would leave OC at about 5pm on Friday
Drive to Josh and pull in to Al's always open camp site and he would be there waiting for me. I would bring him some food or whatever, and we would hang and chat for a couple hours.
Never had to worry about getting a site.
He went downhill after he moved into to Gordo Ranch in the 90s, the ever present climber trash talk turned him bitter.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 03:27pm PT
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Al, prepped and ready for battle at Blue Gamma, 1983:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 03:28pm PT
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Walter Rosenthal on El Cap:
Photo by Tom Carter
Rosenthal and the Drywall Dogs, fall, 1980 ...
Re-Upping the mushroom buzz on top of Paiute Pass:
It's no coincidence that all of our faces are melted off!
Bob Finn, Marcus, Chuck Cochran, Tarbuster, Walter Rosenthal
Photo by Tom Carter
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 03:37pm PT
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Tarbuster, on Safari with Guy Keesee and Nick Badyrka,
Fall of 1979, either before or after a new route attempt on Peak 11,440', The Great Western Divide:
photo, Nick Badyrka
Nick was calling me ViceRoy during this period ...
Check it out, so dirt poor I had only one pair of shoelaces, doing double duty between my EBs and Adidas Cross-Country.
EB laces lasted about 10 minutes.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 21, 2016 - 03:44pm PT
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Maybe that crew thought they were on top of Paiute Pass but that
photo indicates otherwise. ;-)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 03:47pm PT
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True, true. IIRC the pass was on top of US!
We were just high.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 21, 2016 - 04:16pm PT
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One of my favorite shots of E. Kickin' it on the POW when we did it in the late '80's(?).
Tripper Jack lent me the sub cot for the journey.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 21, 2016 - 04:25pm PT
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Overwatch, I was trolling you to see if you would come out of the woodwork
I do remember getting rained out
Rain was common back then, we would hike around all day and have just as much fun
or at least hike to the IDC (iron door cave)
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 21, 2016 - 05:58pm PT
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ViceRoy..... you earned your spot on the Expedition, we knew if things got bad we could push you out on to the sharp end.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 06:06pm PT
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ACCIDENTAL HISTORY: The Masters of Joshua Tree
photos by Dean Fidelman
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 21, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
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Grandma Roberts ended up being a pirate on the Las Vegas strip. He would cross some swords and then swing on a rope over the bullwarks and drop into the sham briney. Three times a night for $400 a night at the Treasure Island. Married a set of talented 52 EE's and has three mulato babies.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Apr 21, 2016 - 07:47pm PT
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Walter Rosenthal hated construction and most of the losers that lived for it...I remember a story about some dumb ass red neck calling Walter a candy ass...Little did he know...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 08:00pm PT
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We worked loading drywall at this massive project called Aspen Creek, right at the end of 1980.
A lot of the carpenters swaggered about, their nail bags on their hips like six shooters from a Hollywood western.
I was walking behind one of those guys with my hands on my hips, thumbs and forefingers like pistols.
Cochran tapped me on the shoulder and whispered in my ear: "Young one, you don't even want to be doing that ..."
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Apr 21, 2016 - 08:09pm PT
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Tarbusser...LOL...Guys and their carpentry bags...Acid Creek condos..! Talk about a black hole of construction law suits...Tried to get work at Aspen Creek with Matthew Kerwin in 81 ...Matthew is now running the Black Diamond maintenance crew in Verdi...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 08:15pm PT
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From the above article:
Bachar on Crank City (V4), just to the right of the classic So High. "Everybody said, ' Bachar, you're nuts – let's get out of here. This thing will never go,' " says Bachar. "I thought they were probably right but suddenly on my fifth or six try I did the dyno move about 10 feet off the ground and everybody stopped to look. Then nobody wanted to leave."
I was there that day. This happened during the last breaths of the 1970s. We were all on acid. When Bachar topped out, he disappeared for a moment behind the summit and then just his head and shoulders reappeared and he was wearing this great big grin.
10 or 20 minutes later, Mari actually got the second ascent of the Crank City proper, but she didn't continue up the So High, as Bachar had.
Nevertheless, she was so stoked and so were the rest of us.
She was jumping up and down like a little girl having just beat all the other boys at their own game. And she had done just that!
Mari is really good at crimping and crossovers, which is just how you accomplish Crank City.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 08:23pm PT
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Matthew Kerwin, now there's a special person.
He asked me to ski, what's it called, Elderberry on Mt. Tom with him, come spring. He had no idea what a fiasco that would've been bringing me along!
I didn't last the winter. That construction scene was depressing. So it was back to Josh for Roy Boy.
.......................................
... And that bit Russ just laid on us about Alan Roberts. I have it on good authority that is 100% gospel!!!
hahhahahahaha
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 08:35pm PT
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Also from the above article:
Yabo on the notorious, almost-didn't-make-it solo of Leave It to Beaver (5.12a) Maybe Randy Vogel will chime in on this one.
At least one person who was watching literally had to turn away from the near-grisly spectacle as Yabo got crossed up above the crux and had to power through.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Apr 21, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
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The depressing construction scene in Mammoth...Alan Roberts was working for this psychotic painting contractor by the name of Hank who had sniffed too much laquer...He came right out and asked Alan what was the least amount of money he would work for...They were painting a 3 story tall condo that needed some sketchy rope work and the contractor was pimping Alan for ideas on how to rig the building..I think he wanted to pay Alan 6 bucks an hour...Poor Al couldn't believe what the guy wanted to pay him..LOL..
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 21, 2016 - 08:59pm PT
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Shetville, North of Los Angeles!
I just read that below your avatar.
What a total bust up!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Apr 21, 2016 - 09:32pm PT
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Roy, caught in calm repose between the non-stop episodes of antics and epics:
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 21, 2016 - 09:42pm PT
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 21, 2016 - 11:04pm PT
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Nice.
Damn, this thread has legs!
Guargoyal Luncheon Meat WTF? It's time for topos.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 22, 2016 - 08:39am PT
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I do remember getting rained out
Rain was common back then, we would hike around all day and have just as much fun
It was for sure a snow storm because it was significant in my mind due to the fact that I had never heard of snow in the desert before being as noob as they come on things desert. I was a forest and beach kid up to that point. Regardless it is interesting to ponder how things would have been different for me if we had actually climbed something and I had got into it the way I did when I really took up climbing at the ripe age of 35. I was maybe 18-20 years old at most when you and I went.
Those old pics above are so cool.
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:37am PT
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Go Royo GO!!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 22, 2016 - 03:47pm PT
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Those topos could be considered more risqué than full frontal nudity!
... And could get this thread struck from the ethers.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 22, 2016 - 03:48pm PT
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Okay, another picture of Al Roberts.
I think this is my favorite portrait of Al, booting up for our first climb in Canyonlands, early May of 1983.
It might be my favorite climber portrait EVER:
(BIG thanks to Peter Haan for meticulously cleaning up that portrait. Love you, Peter!)
.......................................................................
So, Alan Roberts may not have been a hot 5.11 leader, but I guarantee you NOBODY could have loved climbing any more than Al. When most of us were barely 20 or just in our early 20s, Al was already 35. At the time we probably didn't appreciate the athletic reality of that disparity.
What if a middle-aged Woody Allen had joined your collegiate gymnastics team? That was Al. He was particular. He loved perfect hand cracks. He was neurotic about rattley finger cracks, and could be the first one to be overwhelmed by the proposition of a certain type of climb. But he would still go!
Roberts was tidy, meticulous, and always well prepared. He was big on details and guidebooks. It's no wonder we called him "Voice of the Crags". I believe he was actually semiretired, or so it seemed. Before we met him, the only job which he'd had that I knew about was his sewing stint with Allan Pietresana 's Buttermilk Mountain Works.
....................................................................
The Voice of the Crags, 3 AM Crack, Super Crack Buttress, spring, 1983:
Roberts on the summit of Primrose Dihedrals, Moses, spring, 1983:
(notice how late it is?)
I've since learned that before he was a climber, he was into golf. (Maybe this comes from Big Al Bartlett. They were close.) And he cut with that crew just as he has with us …
Toss us a bone Al!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 22, 2016 - 03:58pm PT
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This thread needs more Mike Paul!
"Say, where did you boys say you were from? Missouri. Oh ... and what ... Colorado? Check this unit out we just found. It's the Pigpen."
Mike Paul a.k.a. Watusi, Mike Downing, Christian Griffith, early/mid 1980s:
...................................................................
At the tail end of the Stonemaster era, Mike Paul carried on the sandbag tradition just about better than anyone. This guy had stuff DIALED. Find me someone who was better at thin cracks in SoCal at that time, besides Bachar. Or maybe Rick Piggott at Mount Woodson. I double dare you …
By the late 70s, he had absorbed the Mount Woodson classics into his solo circuit. Hear My Train a Comin', Drivin' South, and Californian Knight among others. These are overhanging finger cracks on oversized boulders. Hardly anyone besides Bachar and Mike Paul would've thought of soloing them at the time.
One cold day in Josh, Mike mentioned this to Largo while a bunch of us were out bouldering. Largo kind of had to shrug it off. Not that John didn't believe Mike, and John was stoked for him, but he definitely had to pause. What could he say?
There was a time in the early 80s when Bachar had Mike Paul in his rearview mirror. For real. Not long after Bachar soloed Hot Rocks, Mike soloed Hot Rocks, with Tucker Tech as witness.
One day shortly after that solo, a bunch of us were blazing on Cid (it wasn't all psychedelics all the time mind you, we smoked a lot of marijuana in between trips), and about five or six of us were standing in a lineup. And I really mean a lineup, like cadets at an inspection.
Bachar walked up to us and looked into our pupils and laughed. The breeze was really blowing our hair back. He gave us the usual scant acknowledgment, saying hello to us, but when he got to Mike Paul he just stood in front of him, grinning. Bachar was just staring at him and he wasn't letting go.
Nothing needed to be said. Bachar was acknowledging that Mike was really becoming a bad ass. Mike can be almost shy at times. He just stood there, feeling he was being put on the spot, while Bachar absorbed Mike's aura. We all saw it. Bachar was really paying homage to the balls out spirit of Mike and the competitive spirit of free soloing. Few could really play that game and get anywhere near Bachar, without dying.
.......................................................................
Watusi, after buying chalk in Mexico, spring of 1983.
On our way to a multi-pitch 5.11+ FA called Wall of Voodoo, across from The Throne, Canyon Tajo:
Mike cruising a rare section of face climbing on Wall of Voodoo:
Mike, bouldering one of Bachar's creations, The Optigrip:
Mike Paul, self-portrait:
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Apr 22, 2016 - 04:05pm PT
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Roy, Great shots of Alan. For many years, he lived in a Blue VW Bus, that was (as you mention) meticulously ordered and maintained. We called him the voice of the crags for his particular talent of recalling exact move sequences, gear and other detailed beta for routes. It was uncanny that he not only remembered this, but you could count on it being right. Of course, if you didn't want to know, better not to ask.
For some reason, I can't be sure, but I always got the impression that he was educated as an engineer. We always had fun climbing or shooting the breeze with Alan. After many, many years living the life of a traveling climber (then more stationary at Todd's house) and developing some health issues, he went back to school to train for a career in nursing. He eventually moved to Vegas to finish that up. That was probably the last I saw of him. Too bad, cause he was/is a great guy.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Apr 22, 2016 - 04:10pm PT
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Mike is Mr. Talent. A super talented athlete (climber), then musician and now artist. He would make problems like PigPen look like V0- ("Wow, looks fun and guess it ain't that hard"...hah)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 22, 2016 - 04:56pm PT
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Mike Waugh a.k.a. The Gran Wazoo, Stony Point, and the San Fernando Valley crew.
Aside from Guy Keesee and Nick Badyrka, we haven't really touched on these guys.
Is Jan McCollum from the Valley? I think so. Definitely Hank Levine, Dan Hershman, Tony Yaniro, and probably Randy Leavitt?
Wazoo is truly very strong. Remember the white deck shoes he would trounce us with on the hard problems?
And SUCH a modest soul (right ... uh-huh).
................................................................
How many times has Mike Waugh done the Bachar Yerian? Five I think. Yes:
Bachar Yerian ascent list, courtesy of Clint Cummins.
.................................................................
Mike, hamming it up at Dead Man Summit, 1984:
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 22, 2016 - 04:58pm PT
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Mike Paul, the Watusi
He was one of the top So. Cal. climbers for least a decade
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 22, 2016 - 05:03pm PT
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Great shots of Mike on All Washed Up!
I especially like the black and white.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 22, 2016 - 05:05pm PT
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I hooked up with Dan Hershman a bunch during the 90s up at Mammoth Mt.
We would tele, and his wife would board
It was good times, Bachar, the Fish, Manx, Cole and some other notables would be up there..
I would see them on the bunny slopes as I whizzed by
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 22, 2016 - 06:47pm PT
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I think Bridwell was a pretty badass skier at one point Craig why didn't you hook up with him and like, Steve McKinney? They were buds and that McKinney guy was something else way ahead of his time from the stories Jim told me
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 22, 2016 - 07:04pm PT
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Bridwell and Steve McKinney were done skiing when I was out there
When I lived in Tahoe 81-84, my girlfriend grew up with the McKinneys.
I met Bridwell a couple times up there but he seemed distracted.
I climbed with other locals, Eric Perlman, Stewie, Joe Hedge
I was big into tele 88-2000,
Now the question is
What the hell happened to the Bird?
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 22, 2016 - 07:23pm PT
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Another funny story from BITD
My first time at Suicide Rock (76ish) with my climbing bros, we decide we can for sure do a 5.8, so we go to the North Side and check out the Guillotine
Our fearless leader, Kevin Watts will lead
he gets up to the bottom of the "tine" and gets some good pro in
He launches off onto the lieback from hell, a gapping flake with a slick foot surface,,, he gets up about 10 feet and flings off like a projectile
Luckily the pro holds, so we lower him the ground and BAILLLlllllllllll
10 years later
I walk up to the Guillotine that I still haven't done since that day and launch off for an easy free solo, I get to the "tine" and am reminded of that day long ago, the gapping vertical lieback above me,
but now it feels like a rail from heaven, I fire up it wondering what all the fuss was about back then.
I scramble back to the base and this guy comes up to and says, are you Dr. F?
I ask why, and he says it's me, Kevin Watts, I came up to see my old nemesis, and you are up there free soloing it !! WTF??
he just got out of 8 years in the military and missed it all
not sure happened to him after that
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 22, 2016 - 07:27pm PT
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Now it's coming out, Craig.
How insensitive and just plain demeaning of you ... heh heh.
I mean, really now.
No wonder The Fish rides you so hard!
That IS quite the coincidence.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 22, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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Life has proven strange enough to me that I don't believe everything is coincidence.
Craig I would love to sit in on a story session with you sometime soon I'm sure you have some good ones
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 22, 2016 - 08:01pm PT
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Russ is working on a Sheep Bugger Reunion, right Russ?
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Friend
climber
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Apr 22, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
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That photo of Mike Paul in Craig Fry's book, and a similar one of Woodward flashing the AWU, inspired and amazed me for years. What about the classic footage of MP in Masters of stone, floating the super desperates?? So awesome.
Roy I've always wished someone would do exactly what you are doing, reminiscing about hanging around when JB was firing these uber classic bps. MOre please! Were you there when he found Planet X, the JBMFP, etc, etc, etc, etc?? WRite it down, share it, loving these memories. Carry on!!
sorry. End of gushing fanboy rant.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Apr 22, 2016 - 08:57pm PT
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Mad props to Mike Paul. Truly a very gifted climber but more importantly a nice person to all of us visiting climbers even if he did sandbag us a wee bit! Also did I mention he likes to party hard! Way fun to hang with and toss about some good slander on various climbers . Club salute! Steve S / aka Jack Ness. x-dlfa
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 22, 2016 - 10:10pm PT
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"insensitive and just plain demeaning"
yup
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 22, 2016 - 10:13pm PT
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and Mike Paul appreciates some good punk rock
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 23, 2016 - 05:47am PT
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Friend:
Not Planet X, or the JBMFP specifically, but I will trot out more.
Thanks for reading along ...
Photo search alert!
Craig, maybe you can help, it looks like you have a good archive.
Or anybody else?
One of the best photos ever on this forum is a photomanipulation of Craig Fry buildering beneath what looks like a steel and concrete staircase.
It is in black and white. But somebody Photoshoped a ballerina's tutu on him!
Of course, I don't need to emphasize just how VERY important it is that we find this gem.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 24, 2016 - 08:12am PT
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Little history of Bachar's exploits at Josh are remembered by others
He lived out there during the late 70s to mid 80s,
and did a lot of his stuff alone during the week days.
We all remember his workout installation located at the Gunsmoke,
and we can all point to his test pieces, but not much more.
We remember his campground presence more, blasting funk from his van, the sax.
Mike and Mari probably have the best stories, but they won't play on ST.
Cosmic, I'll only share with you
queue the 666
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 24, 2016 - 05:01pm PT
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The one arm mantle finish to Betty Jo was a nice touch.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 24, 2016 - 05:45pm PT
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I love the Jean Luc Ponty as Russell's soundtrack.
I saw him live during that era at OCC.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 27, 2016 - 02:58pm PT
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Once again guys, thanks for all the photos, memories, etc. Love the pics of Mike Paul...lots of memories there. What happened to the pics that Fish posted...nasty or what? Why removed? Fishy? Thanks Roy for all the good stuff. You too Craig ; ) P.S. When is the buggerer reunion?? I think I can make it if it's this winter....fun times. V
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 27, 2016 - 02:58pm PT
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We need to get Dean to go and find the rare super 8mm movie he made one morning while we tagged along behind JB. This was his morning circuit, Bearded Cabbage, Hot Rocks, Left Ski, and on and on (faded memory)
And Roy, Jan was a Valley Boy and so was Mike Pope, Jim Wilson (wild jim)Shawn Curtis, Dean, and lets not forget "the goyle" (Mike Gardino) or Levi or Dave Katz or or or or or ???
Time to go and dig out some more slides.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 27, 2016 - 04:01pm PT
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Tad.... a different Jim Wilson. "wild Jim Wilson" he is on the TACO (sometimes) .... he still climbs. He is older than me! He was the leader of the Stoney Point crew in the 70's and still is the Mayor of Stoney Point.
Peter Wilkine (sp?) .... another Valley climber, he made almost all of the Gramichi stuff in the 80's before moving on to BD when they moved to SLC...... I wonder just what happened to him? Anybody know, please let me know.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 27, 2016 - 06:09pm PT
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Wilkining or Wilkening
Posting from the Shepards hot springs, skied Mammoth today.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Apr 27, 2016 - 06:58pm PT
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The Jim Wilson i remember had glasses , long hair , beard and looked wild...Think i saw him climbing a tree one night in humber park with a raging party going on below....
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Apr 30, 2016 - 01:30pm PT
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Hey guys, what happened?? Nothing more to say about the Sheep Buggerers of JT?? This stuff was getting me thru the end of an extremely stressful school year with gut wrenching laughter at times. You've all gained many new fans. I think Fishy probably likes that ; ) Doug, Greg, Karl??? Any more photos?
Anyway, Tim, THANK YOU for the fine prose that began it all, the bleating, pics, blasts, and especially the memories that were drawn out of everyone. Thanks to all (*Roy*) for their contributions. I hope there is a reunion, it would be entertaining and fun. I'd love to see the ladies. Aloha, Vikki
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 30, 2016 - 07:57pm PT
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Yes, Jim Wilson.
I knew both and climbed with both.
There was "Wild" Jim Wilson, slightly older than we were, a great guy and hardcore. He may have been a few years older.
And there was Rubideoux (sp?) Jim Wilson. Rubideoux was of my era. My first ascent of Valhalla was with JW in '74. We were the same age, climbing together since '74-, graduated from high school in '75. He led the crux.
I don't remember much about "Wild Jim" but that on one occasion we all hiked up to "One Hour Rock," and did a number of FA's. I think Clark was there and maybe Matt Cox or RV. We did 4 or 5 routes and all were FA's.
This was before Dr. F was born.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Hey Vikki!
We're not done yet!!!
Here's some good stuff to go through: links to a couple of reunion threads.
TONS of pictures.
(You'll find some missing pictures/broken links with red Xs. It happens with the older threads)
The first reunion, Kevin Powell and his partner Laura hosted in 2006:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/181502/Official-JT-Old-Folks-Reunion-Photo-Neb-4-15-16-2006
The second installment, NOT to be missed!
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=182828&f=0&b=0
In 2008, I put together the second reunion at the Dry Lake campground, on the edge of Joshua Tree:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/574993/70-s-Joshua-Tree-Crew-Redux-2008
.....................................................................
... also, Vik, you mentioned Maria, Lynn, and Mari.
Still HOTTIES ... in every sense of the term!
photo, Dave Wonderly
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Guy said: And Roy, Jan was a Valley Boy and so was Mike Pope, Jim Wilson (wild jim)Shawn Curtis, Dean ...
Thanks for filling the group out Guy!
Of course Dean Fidelman was a Stony Point local.
......................................................................
BULLWINKLE TAPS THE FLOYD
By the end of 1976 Munoz and I were making our first forays into the sandy pit of graffiti and pink sandstone boulders that is Stony Point. During 1977 we became regulars.
There were the omnipresent teenage brothers who bouldered exclusively in mountain boots. The young greyhounds had narrow set eyes, sharp noses, and bowl-cut dark brown hair. They were highly skilled and the toes of their boots were totally blown out. They floundered at the real crags, but at Stony, they were little kings.
Scott Loomis a.k.a. The Old Man, was something of a self-driven prodigy. He must've been 12 or 13 years old. Bob Kamps was there, and he would boulder with the young Loomis, giving lessons in immaculate footwork and edging skills. We'd occasionally see Largo and Kevin Powell and Mari and others. We called Kevin "Popeye" for his nasal repartée and wicked strength-to-weight ratio.
Under the eucalyptus trees one smoggy afternoon, a long hair jumped up and grabbed the opening holds to a sort-of-high boulder problem called Pink Floyd. He stuck the holds and his feet swayed out from the overhanging rock. He stabilized, feet still free from the stone, and flung a dyno out left with his right hand, slapping for a gutsy crossover. He latched the hold, making an X pattern with his forearms. Feet still hanging away from the rock, he bumped his left hand to another hold.
I watched intently and counted the moves: dyno entry onto pinch-grip holds in an overhanging wall. Two successive dynos from those holds to grab the next two handholds, all with no feet. Only then did he bring his feet onto the available foot smears and continue his acrobatics, and high enough from the ground to get hurt. His ascent looked practiced, but really elegant and definitely powerful … maybe a little dangerous.
"And that is how you do that, boys."
I was beginning to see this bouldering thing really had potential!
We didn't know exactly why the dude was called Bullwinkle. True, he was lanky and had a rack of hair ... I never learned where his nickname came from, or I've simply forgotten. From Dean I learned about bouldering with gusto. I also learned that once you break bread with him, he'll back you up when you need it!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Shawn Curtis
"Hey man, somebody send me up a reefer or something, FAST!"
That was the first and last time I'd ever heard Shawn asking for stoner supplies. He had just led Stick to What out at Echo T in Josh, circa 77 or early 1978. The sun was bright, we were all young, some of us just on spring break from high school, and the crystalline monzonite was sharp to the touch.
Levi cutoff shorts, EB's, scraggly red hair and a mock-histrionic display. Summoning reefer at his belay stance. I knew I liked Shawn right away, just from his self-effacing, cool-but-concerned style. Pat Nay was there that day too, fresh from his military stint in Germany, wearing an Edelrid chest harness.
It wasn't until the end of 1978 that I met him, when Shawn had returned from a trip to Canada and invited E, Fred Ziel and I to come down to San Diego to take a look at his slides from his trip to the ice fields.
"Man, just look at those glaciers and crevasses! How cool would it be to take acid in that setting!
It kind of hit me as a bit much, but Shawn had a bubbly enthusiasm that made it seem possible.
"Check out those taco shells I had to climb through on this next mixed section!
E and Fred and I went on a few climbing trips together. I didn't make it down to San Diego again for another couple of years, so really getting to know Shawn would have to wait. But we did pass through on our way to climb the Pan Am in late '79.
...............................................................
Fred Ziel, on the Pan Am, Great White Throne, October 1979:
...............................................................
Summer of 1981, some of the Sheep Buggerers and most of the Joe Boys were all up in Tuolumne. Those club names were beginning to wear off.
By this time, having left Southern California for Mammoth Lakes in spring of 1980, I was pretty much an independent actor, and had ties to several groups of climbers hailing from Southern California, Yosemite, and the east side of the Sierra. (By the End of 1981 and Early 1982, Russ and I would become solid pals).
Shawn was there that summer. So was Tim Sorenson. Shawn was big into his photography at that point. He took a lot of pictures of us that summer. Peter Wilkeney was around as well. I was very driven by this time, almost antsy, and it was kind of obvious.
At one point Peter and some others said I should just chill out and drink a beer.
Tim and I had climbed Inverted Staircase on Fairview. The campground was free. I decided my relaxation program would include renovating a lawn chair with the help of a 2 inch swami. Tim and I attacked it like it really mattered and Shawn took pictures.
Shawn's sister has that photograph and a whole bunch of pictures which he took of us that year.
............................................................
Here's a few of shots which Shawn created that summer of 1981:
Mike Pope, On the Lamb, Tuolumne:
Photo, Shawn Curtis
Sir David Evans, The Vision, TM:
Photo, Shawn Curtis
Tarbuster, clowning around on Crescent Arch with Budweiser and reefer, trying, per Peter Wilkeney, to CHILL:
photos, Shawn Curtis
One of my favorite of Shawn's pictures of the 80s crew.
Connie Tobia, Tarbuster, Russ Walling, Mike Paul, Dimitri Barton, Glacier Point, 1982:
Photo, Shawn Curtis
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Maria, Mari and Lynn are three more than pretty incredible Gals both climbing wise and in the human being category. Great picture of them!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Roy, I remember the ascent of Crescent Arch, it was the so called "Beer Ascent."
I'm a little surprised to see cams in use.
That was you, me and Shawn.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Shawn and Jim Angione and I had a memorable ascent of the East Face of Whitney roughly during that time period. It was our first time up the famous peak. We took a rope but I didn't use it and those guys only used it for the crux. We drove up there in Shawn's convertible.
We were camped at the lake the night before and saw a most remarkable rockfall off the ridge below Day Needle.
A suburban house sized block cut loose. We watched in awe as it fell, then hit and broke into multiple train car sized chunks. Then it was 2 dozen VW vans and then it continued to disintegrate.
To this day I've never seen anything like it except on Youtube videos.
I love how a thread like this jars the memory.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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I've got a couple of color prints that Shawn took and developed in his bathroom darkroom. I'll try and find them, scan and post.
He had an artist's sensibility and demeanor.
It's no wonder he had trouble dealing with regular life, sort of like Vangogh.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Not to mention his abilities on the piano!
Yes, Dave, I remember you being on that Crescent Arch ascent and this is in my notes.
Say, think you could dig up, from your notes, an ascent you and I and Lechlinski made of Zeno's Paradox at Tahquitz?
Most of my notes for that time frame have been reverse engineered, but they are getting pretty darn good at this point.
I have it as ~ June of 1979.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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sort of like Vangogh
Remember Shawn had done some sort of spoof, putting his face in something like a Rembrandt self-portrait?
At the least, he looked like those Dutch guys on the cigar boxes. Ha ha.
Rembrandt:
(just add a goatee and you've got Shawn!)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sadly,
I don't have a single picture of Shawn from BITD.
He took a boatload of me, to include attempts at constructing a modeling portfolio.
Bullwinkle looked at the photos and said: "Roy, you look like Mike Paul. Don't models need to have hair?"
Ha ha ha ha.
.......................................
You know who can really tell great Shawn stories: Nick Badyrka.
Russ, of course, has a few good ones.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2016 - 09:25pm PT
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Got any photos of Nick Badyrka, Roy?
Is he still around or post here?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Negative on photographs of Nick. He does post occasionally.
But if you look at that Rembrandt portrait, he sort of has Nick's eyes.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 1, 2016 - 10:05pm PT
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Didn't Nick take a seventy foot face slappin' whipper on Medlicott that summer? I think I remember that was him.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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OK Roy, I have the "2nd ascent" of Xenos Paradox 5.11 in August 1979. Yup, You and Mo and I. One of you 2 led it.
My other notes from that weekend are as follows.
Jonah 5.10d Roy and Dave Katz........(LOL, how about that?)
and
White Maiden 5.7 (must have been a variation), free solo with Roy.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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But, most of all, thanks for reminding me of Shawns virtuoso ability on the keyboards.
Remember going over to the Tuolumne Lodge in the evening and Shawn would hold forth on the (grand?) piano!?!?
Damn he was good!!!
Those were the days.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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IIRC Nick's big fall was a few years earlier. I want to say 1977.
It was on Wrinkle in Time, Medlicott.
...................................................................
On Zeno's, Mo led the 10d fist crack.
We were definitely using friends by then, and I found it interesting that he protected it mostly with large hexes.
I led the 5.11 face crux. I had to do a one arm lock-off!
This was a big deal for me.
Although I had done lots of bouldering and top roping with the Stonemasters the winter prior, this was my first time roping up with Mo, and maybe you as well, Dave.
I had forgotten it was the second ascent!
...................................................................
Yes, Dave, Jonah with Dave Katz.
Here's a good little ditty from that day:
Katz was all psyched to tell us he had done Sh#t for Brains.
To which you replied: "How apropos ..." Ha ha.
[edit] hahahaha
V V V
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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We did give "The Inflatable Man" a lot of sh#t in those days!
Sorry about that Dave!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Up front apologies to Mr. Katz (I love you Dave), but I feel compelled to toss this out.
One time Dave had had enough, he was fed up with all the "Inflatable" BS. We are all at Suicide and Dave comes up to Mo and is ready to throw down.
All the usual suspects are present.
Dave says something like "I'm sick of you guys calling me "The Inflatable Man!"" "You need to stop it!"
He is REALLY PISSED and we are expecting fisticuffs possibly. Dave is SuperCut and there's no telling who would come out on top.
Mo calmly replies "OK, we'll call you "Inflatable Dave."
The subsequent laughter took all the wind out of Dave's sails.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jim Angione!?
I think I cImbed with him.
That rings bells?
Seems like a name I know from around, 88?
Maybe in JTree? Or the Meadows?
After my earliest memories, from the late 70s - but before the 90s
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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So why was he so 'inflatable'? Was it a prodigious toking capacity?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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DEEE,
That's a great story about Dave Katz!
No doubt, that's the day Katz became one of us!
.....................................................................
Speaking of Dave Katz,
Check out this TV short he had me and Dave Vaughan get onto YouTube, for YOUR viewing pleasure!!!
Tube socks, swami belts, EB's ... all the adorable period trappings.
Largo, Lynn, Dave Katz, TV short: Early 80's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8qOlFRW0hZI
Towards the end there is a wacky contextual blooper here, while watching free solo footage, we get the following overlay:
Commentator:
"Thirty feet up, Lynn is perched on a ledge the size of a dime; how does she handle her fear of falling?"
Lynn:
"It's only scary before you fall, after you fall it's kind of a relief, because you realize that it wasn't that bad and I've fallen 40 feet and just hopped back up on the climb and completed it."
Commentator:
"What drives these people to risk their lives for a climb?"
Largo:
"It's just fun ... probably the same ... as sinking a 35 foot jump shot or a sinking a long putt.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Reilly,
Inflatable Man i.e. inflatable ego!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I keep in touch with Slim Jim Angione.
He's doing well.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Roy,
Thanks for thinking about me and posting the links to the reunions! Great photos and memories...having a slamming day at school and it helps when I can take a moment to have a good hearty laugh. The story about Katz is hilarious! Carry on....beautiful day in HI. Can see every valley and tree on Mauna Kea, nice trade winds. Keeps the vog (volcanic haze) at bay ; ) V
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Me, Manx, and Mike Paul. Generator Crack tyrol
Lower Leaf Larry
Mims
Jessica and Shockley
Chopping with Moe, Bachar, and Ed Erenfeld on the crew
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Reilly,
If I remember correctly, the "inflatable" label came from his extremely ripped physique.
When he first appeared he wasn't that big but, after a year or so he was a effing roman statue.
There were climbers using steroids in those days, not that Dave was.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Well, that could explain his 'touchiness', eh?
Did Nurse Ratched miss Mims at bed count?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Only got a minute... remodel in full swing.
Yeah... Cops told us where to go... we go there down by the sewage plant in El Portal. Way late. We go too far and have to hang a u-ee or Y turn thing on the skinny dirt-ish road that has a pretty sheer drop into the merced river on the business side.
I do the turn and hit a boulder on the first leg of the Y... it was hidden in some long brush. No big deal. I back up and promptly go off the road with the ass end of the bus. Rear wheels are not even touching!!! Long drop into the Merced. Everybody out!!! But, when I hit the rock it rotated the front wraparound bumper up enough to make it so neither front door would open!! Trapped like rats. The Garg is headed into the back of the teetering bus, to save his brand new Fires!!! The thing was like a teeter-totter. We eventually bail out the side door and lash the bus off to a fence post with a 9mm.
It is way late now and we go for help. Some river dudes are up the way and have a truck. But, the puss says it is his dads truck and he can't pull us out. WTF over?? But there is like 6 of them and they are way drunk so we recruit them to pull us off the brink by hand.
I stomp on the bumper to get in the front door and fire the rig up.... them boys are pulling for all they are worth as I go through all the gears... finally the real wheels hit tarmac and the bus launches into the crowd!!! At least one dude goes down and partially under the bus. Good times!!
Fires were saved, no real injuries, and the proper tool free bivy was eventually found.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Me and my right hand man
I call him Number 2
Russ's official Sheep Buggerer Flow Chart
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Shawn Curtis. My MAN!
Posthumously, making us ... famous.
German Mike, The Fish, Swiss Jodi, Roy Boy, living the high life!
Dead Man Summit, 1982:
photo by Shawn Curtis, used to great comic effect in VALLEY UPRISING.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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I could have sworn you guys were all in the Mountain Room Bar in that picture...
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Say Tardy... are you sure that is German Mike?? I think not. Maybe it will come to me. German Mike was thinner and liked doing one arms and acid in Camp4. Sorta introverted in a serial killer kind of way. Super strong gymnast type guy.
How about all them super Swiss/German guys? DePaolo and Big Sunny... Michi of course... Jody... German Mike and Mattias.... And the bent one.... Martin Scheel. And we all went to that steak house in the Castro District and the local fellas were foaming at the crotch checking out our meat store.
Remember the convertible that, what was his name?????? Fladdi/Vladdi!! Thats it. We kept calling him Vladdivostok or something and had... a Buick Electra with the girlfriend with the pony tail and they always dressed up like 50's teeny boppers. He was all fussy on the Priest Grade after a run to the Haight since my bus was so slow and he was overheating being behind me...!!
And the Swiss Misses... Dani and Melena?
And Punk Roy our chauffeur in the Swiss Mobile, along with the Writher girl from Ohio(?) and lots of Tangerine Dream and Talking Heads on the EastSide and Tahoe.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Well gee, I climbed the Salathe with him, so we might think I would know what he looks like ...
But that doesn't mean that I do! Ha ha.
Look at that sacked out lawn chair he is sitting in.
Whoever he is ...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Here you are, Russ,
With another one of them foreigners ... Matias, Lurking Fear:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Russ and the Manx, Sundance …
Everything went perfectly that day … until the Manx forgot how to belay:
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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What happened when "The Manx" forgot to belay.
Did he drop Russell to his death!?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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You know how slick that traverse is ... He came off.
"What the hell is going on down there?"
Russ, ever vigilant ... stopped waiting to be caught... grabbed the rope to save himself!
And then all was well again.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mike and Mari.
Two of the strongest, most under-publicized climbers of our generation.
Why? Perhaps because they actually had and have a life.
Unlike those of us with the needs of men and the means of boys who threw it all in for the fame and fortune of the crags!
Mike Lechlinski a.k.a. Mo:
Shaking out!
Slaying dragons on So High:
El Camino Real:
Hamming it up on Dream of Wild Turkeys:
And where there's one M, there is likely another ...
Mari, Turtle Rock bouldering:
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Never heard of them
They must have been down a couple rungs on the flow chart
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Yep, 2 of the best climbers of our generation.
Sorry if I already posted but a better edit.
Swept Away
......of course Mo led the second pitch.
Mike and Mari , and Sibylle and I all had our self sewn fleece jackets that we made back in THAT day.
This is Mike's.
Here, once again, is mine.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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That checkered pile jacket got a lot of mileage!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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The Moon Fuzz, cruising The Flakes, Tahquitz, 1983:
Munoz, heading into Green Arch, with Mo and Roy Balls, 1983:
T Buster, Le Toit, 1983:
*Roy Balls: my nickname when I was a Joe Boy
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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This thread needs more Bob Gaines!
Dick Cilley, getting kicked out of Mammoth Jane's van.
With Mike Paul, savoring the spoils:
(Russ, in the van, Annex lot, Yosemite)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dave Katz,
Showing us what a good sport he is ... serving up endless margaritas at the 2008 reunion:
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Tarbuster... Keep going ! You're on fire... I remember Jane's van in old mammoth , post Cilley...There was a curious disturbance in the Jane force...Was that a 69 Econoline...? rj
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Not sure of the pedigree of Jane's van, RJ.
At one point, it had a serious radiator leak.
Everywhere she went, Jane had to carry gallons upon gallons of water.
And that van happily drank them all down!
Then, it summarily pissed that water right back out onto the highway.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Manx had a habit of the rope jumping his back while belaying. Happened to me twice with him.
Once on Sundance as Roy said.... bolt were whipping by and finally I grabbed the rope and stopped myself. Roy was feeding the Manx pipeloads when I whipped. The other time was on the Sham at Taquitz. I'm one move above the bolt, I pop.. go a long way, off a small roof and through a bush/tree... giant whipper. Rope jumped his back. Ropeburns on the Manx from the arrest. I think we bailed.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Tar...Rodger that on the leaking van ...I can see in that photo of Cilley that he's carrying Niagra Falls in a card board box...If only he knew about Bars Stop Leak...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Roy was feeding the Manx pipeloads when I whipped
It's well-known, I can't be trusted with flammables.
Remember when we were camped back at the scene of the crime, of the Gargoyle/VW bus cliffhanger incident by the El Portal sewage treatment plant, and I tried to blow up that propane cylinder while making coffee???
... And then you, Russ, backed away and fell off the edge of the road into the rocks and bushes?
Good times. Good times.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Manx is living in Australia (Perth) working on a second wife. Here a photo of when Manx and I did the Salathe. BITHD when it was an aid climb and no one else was on the route.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Geeze louise! After reading this I fear for the gene pool!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Nice Doug, you and The Manx on the Salathe.
AWESOME.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Hey Doug,
Thanks for that photo of Kent a.k.a. the Manx!
Why, just look at the young man. Chest open, a model of the perennial yoga asana.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Russ claimed Manx ballooned up to 400 lbs., turned tail and went back to Kentucky and wrote everybody post cards saying "I hate all of you!"
Not sure about that... but he is in Australia doing tech support or computer repair or something. I get reports from the Rubber Maiden from time to time. Last time I saw him he did dwarf me though, and I'm no lightweight.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Geeze louise! After reading this I fear for the gene pool!
Be afraid
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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!!!!!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Remember when we were camped back at the scene of the crime, of the Gargoyle/VW bus cliffhanger incident by the El Portal sewage treatment plant, and I tried to blow up that propane cylinder while making coffee???
... And then you, Russ, backed away and fell off the edge of the road into the rocks and bushes?
That was in the same timeframe as the Garg story... we were in your rig, way late at night making some spro... cuz that's how we did it....
You had like a mini cab over or something on your truck... anyway... making spro and something goes haywire with the stove... a gas lantern is going too... propane starts spewing out of a cylinder and makes all the air milky in the little RV... and there is an open flame with the lantern... I'm in some bunhuggers (summer, dont ask) and bail the rig and start walking away from the soon to explode vehicle... and step off backwards of the bridge that marks the forest service boundary.
I'm flying backwards through the air and land in a giant poison oak bush! WTF??? I take an immediate dirt bath and scrub everything twice... then get in the creek to finish the job. Never did get the oak on that one. Lucky!!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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THIS THREAD IS AWESOME.
Thank you ol'Buster of tar.
and Thank alls Ya'lls!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Okay Russ,
Now break out the story where STRAPPO rode a bicycle into the MR Bar, NUDE, then bonked his head and passed out!?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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I think that was Darryl Hatten on the bike...
Strappo jumped up on the bar-top naked, with a cocktail toothpick crossways into his anteater foreskin, yelled something like "beware my hammerhead shark" then ran down the bar until he took the main roof beam in the forehead. Lights out, naked, hammerhead foreskin intact, laying on the bar unconscious.
You mean that story??
How about Powell and the MellowDick™™™ routine in the 4 Seasons? That is some funny sh#t too.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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KICKASSS™™™
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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This thread needs more BLITZO!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Russ Walling, working toward the FA of Tonic Boom!!!
5.12d, 1990:
Photo by Jim Thornburg
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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A series of nice photographs from SHAWN CURTIS.
Tarbuster, Elusive Butterfly, 1981/1982:
Tarbuster, Howard's Horror Direct, 1981/1982:
Tarbuster, Frontal Lobotomy, 1981/1982
All photos, Shawn Curtis, RIP
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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LOL LOL LOL LOL LOL
I am going to make it thru the school year!!
Roy, You are on fire!! You are my new hero for making me feel so special. Continue getting those photos up, good job!
Doug, thanks for the great pics...so many awesome memories ; )
Fishy, your stories make me laugh to the point of tears...
I even got teary eyed seeing the buggerers at the Weeping Wall.
How many lambs were born unto those buggers anyway?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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The Aussies running around semi naked with flaming newspaper secured in their ass holes was memorable. That story is ... LEGEND.
...............................................................
Yes, the old lounge, before it was the MR Bar.
A couple/three years before the changeover, that's where David Evans and I first spotted Bobbi Bensman ...
When she was fresh off the bus from Arizona and just a 19-year-old skinny climber girl with a bandanna over her hair, stretching out on the floor in a full splits.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Awe, heck,
She may be famous, WAY BadAss♥♥♥
And all that stuff ...
But she is still just Little Lynnie to all of us.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Russ Walling, just being the cool cat that he is ...
Casually modeling a brassiere on his cowboy hat, C4 lot:
Mountains of Muss-cle™ ... FULLY prepped and ready for action:
photo, Walling collection
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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^^^ Is that prior/post bull ride? I heard staying on those bad boys for 8 seconds is a piece of cake. True?
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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I think we should start a Manx appreciation thread. When I think back of all the fun times and the things he did for me, there must be others that Kent helped out. He even gave me a place to crash a few times. One of my fondest memories is digging out of school, meeting up with the Manx and going to Santa Anita and betting ($2) on all the grey horses that day. They ALL came in. I thought their muscles looked bigger ; ) I came home with $140 and thought I was rich!
Another vivid memory of Kent is when I got the flu while living in Tuolumne, I believe the summer of '80. Burning up with fever, The Manx picked me up and put me in the back seat of my '66 Dart, and drove me to the hospital in Bishop. They gave me a shot of penicillin then made we wait to see if there would be any adverse reaction. As soon as we got back to the car I started projectile vomiting in the parking lot. I think E was on the Captain.
Any Manx stories out there?? After all, he was a real bugger...
Moonie, thx for firing up those memories.
Did you ever share how The Fish got his name? We are all curious...please do share : )
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oh, and Vikki ...
You asked about Sheep Buggerer progeny.
Buggerers in whirligig caps. Joe Boys in sombreros.
L-R Tony Montiel, Russ Walling, Greg Byrne, Larry Stone, John Freriks
Photo, Doug Munoz
Tony Montiel, alive and well, not sure about kids.
Russ Walling is like performance art: you only get one shot, so no proj.
Greg Byrne, with his wife Luresa, have a boy named Clayton.
Larry Stone, girlfriend, no progeny.
John Freriks, married with a son, who is also a talented runner.
Doug Munoz, (Buggerer, not pictured), with his wife Joan, have a son named Sid.
Jeff Sewell, (Joe Boy, not pictured) remarried to the lovely Cynthia, has four kids from a previous marriage.
Dave Bruckman and Joe Hedge, both Joe Boys, both single, no kids.
I'm happily married to Lisa.
But, like Russ, no kids … With me you only get one match to light!
.....................................................................
I agree about Sheep Buggerer, Kent Sparks.
All us LA boys were LOUD. He had a different temperament.
A big shout out to MANXY-DUDE!
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Roy, Thanks for filling me in...I don't always recognize folks.
Since I'm listed as a bugger under The Fish on some list, I have twin sons that will be 23 yrs. in July...time sure flies when you're having fun. Turned out to be awesome young men, trying to save the world and all that. I'll try to dig up a pic with all of us in it. Don't take many, don't carry a smart phone.
I'm totally looking forward to the next chapter...180 degree lifestyle change. Thinking about early retirement ; ) Stay tuned. Aloha, V
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Tar.... good Weeping Wall shot.
I wonder if anybody has any photos of the Mass Assaults we would do on Sunday afternoons, after a huge MEGA SESSION at the base of the WW.
Usually Mo would start up Revelations, trailing a rope unbelayed, at the first bolt someone else would tie in and start climbing while Mo would continue.... sometimes we would have Mo at the top with sombody just starting up... about 15 climbers all in all in a huge simul.
I know that little bit of nuttiness had to have been captured by someone.
And a Question for V ...... you had a dodge dart and you drove these idiots around, right? Did you go to school at La Verne?
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Guyman,
Prolly wrong gal. Went to HS at SG, PCC where I met the buggers, then Cal Poly SLO for multiple degrees and credentials...professional student.
Lived with EE in Boulder after a summer in Yosemite ('80-81,'82?, it's fuzzy) where we had lots of folks over for parties and climbing (Aloha Todd G!), Morro Bay and SLO town. Ended up moving to the Big Island in 1990 to have a career as a school counselor. Lived in Yosemite for 3 summers, even while living in Boulder. Sold the Dart to a climber while living in SLO.
Tell me who you are, I do have some memory left...things before children are the most blurry ; ) E has been most helpful in filling in the holes.
Didn't really spend much time driving the buggers around. Just the one time I pulled out onto Topanga Canyon Blvd. when Russ let out an unusually loud bleating sound...completely distracting me. You bad Fishy. More Manx please. Awesome memories of the intersection table too, LOL.
PS. E and Tarbuster were 2 of the cutest guys out there ; )
Dave Katz pretty much looks the same...must be the margarita's!
Russ and Jeff, many thanks for the great pics. More pics Doug!!
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Seattle-ite
Social climber
Seattle
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Also joining us was a very large black man named Marcus, who I later beat out in an eating contest, including ribs, corn, potatoes and pie. Little 135 pound Bob Finn could also out-work Marcus in terms of sheer load carrying capacity, which was really something to watch. Marcus knew we were just a bunch of crazy white boys. Italic Text
Marcus Grear - he lived in Yosemite in the 70's and migrated to the East Side after that. He did road crew all up and down 395 - snow plow, etc. He eventually settled in to South Lake Tahoe. Now he lives in Washington State - but he plans on moving back down that way in the fall. He would get a kick out of reading this. He always enjoyed playing with blues bands in the Bishop area.
Nice stories on this thread....
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Seattle-ite
Social climber
Seattle
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[photo[photoid=455061]id=455060]
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Hey, Seattle-ite, that's pretty cool that you know Marcus.
I have to think Chuck Cochran is still in touch with him as well.
Marcus is a good man.
Your post and pictures are much appreciated!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Keesee said:
I wonder if anybody has any photos of the Mass Assaults we would do on Sunday afternoons, after a huge MEGA SESSION at the base of the WW I remember you guys doing those alpine style ascents. Running belays ... five or six people on a rope, climbing various routes on the Weeping Wall. It was above my pay grade at the time.
And yes, IIRC, there is a picture of that action here on the forum, along with some good stories.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Oh Now I remember Mike and Mari
I checked out my climbing notes from the 70s and there they were
I kept real notes back then, from the 80s on it was just a check mark in the guidebook or a FA name scribbled in the back
I met Mike at Humber Park one morning, summer of 76, both of us were looking for someone to climb with, Mari was off with Bob Camps in Tuolumne for a couple weeks.
I had a bigger rack, so we went to the big stone and did Super Pooper and some other classics, next day we did Suicide.
We met up the next weekend with Mari and did Valhalla.
(For DE, I led the 2nd P. in 77)
We did 100s of routes together over many years, the Nose 8/78.
There was no doubt that Mike became and was the best Southern Cal. local climber (Bacher not being a local) for 2 decades.
And Mari being the best female climber for the same period.
Visited them last Fall out in Josh, still awesome folks.
on 7/1/78
the notes say we did Duck Soup with Guyman!
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Friend
climber
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Craig, I neglected to reply earlier but I enjoyed your response to my question re JB's bouldering exploits. You recalled that he did a lot of that stuff solo on weekdays with no one there to see.... not quite the response I was fishing for, but gold nonetheless. Heady times and legendary personalities for sure. I was born too late.
Killer money shot of ML cruising the X too.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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BITD
We didn't like spotters,
and didn't have pads
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Planet X shot for comparison purposes
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Tarbuster...You look so trustworthy and honest in that portrait...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Trustworthy and Honest......Yes he is.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Honest and trustworthy? Haha.
Only my hairdresser knows for sure.
Arcadia High School, class of '78
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Soon after the "Beer Ascent" of Crescent Arch I moved to Sacramento and went for a semester at American River College.
I climbed almost exclusively with Jeff Sewell's cousin Tom Smith.
Tom was a great partner and WAY psyched! We spent the year touring all of the cool areas available from Sacto. Tom was an expert in (majoring in grape harvesting) ....viniculture and has become a fixture in this world.
We went all over, Donner, Eagle Lake, The Leap, Calaveras Dome and all satellite formations, Phantom Pinnacles, S. Lake Tahoe, Cosumnes River Gorge........everywhere. I see from the records that I climbed with Nick Badyrka and a few others up there as well.
At one point we did a classic FA on the Leap. It was over to the right of the Bear's Reach and such..... We scoped the widest area on the Leap with no routes and saw a cool line with features from top to bottom. We started at bottom and did a 2-3 pitch route that we thought was great. The pro was a little sketchy, one or two bolts, 2 or 3 pitons and the rest clean. 5.9R.
We reported it to the locals and received no acknowledgement. The route never made the guide.
3: O Clock Road Block 5.9r
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Hey, thanks for that Dave!
Craig,
Tell us about Lynnie laybacking that vertical faux-granite light pole on the street where she grew up.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Toe Tag Tom.... I think that was his nickname. Maybe because Tom Smith is a lot like John Doe?
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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I missed the light pole lieback by just one unlucky weekend
She broke up with Keith Cunning and I was next in line,
but that Joshua Tree weekend I missed, the lieback was mastered by The Largo.
And there's no going back after you go Largo....
We're talking liebacks, right?
Our whole world revolved around 'weekends"
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Russ, The LA Woman photo is quite flattering, thank you. Wish folks could see my face so they can tell who I am. My butt isn't that tight anymore and I'm a brunette now.
Dave, I agree...great article from Rolling Stone and well written.
The pics of The Fish really make everything worthwhile ; )
Roy, carry on you are the best! Class of '78 rocks!! Love the hair.
I'm in the SGHS yearbook as a senior that year...are those things online?
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Nice Jeff
Glad to see Toe Tag Tom doing so well
If there is every a party, Tom needs to bring the wine!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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SOUL SURVIVAL
Bachar and Largo were competitive, and Yabo … tortured, half crazy, and painfully sincere.
At the end of the 70s, it was my time to shine. I had quit college, climbed The Nose, and started guiding as much as possible. During the winter of '80, Erik and I joined Largo, Lynnie, Vogel, Yabo, and a few others for the FAs of the top rope problems Animalitos and Animalargos, at Hound Rocks, Joshua Tree. These discontinuous crack lines were steep and almost acrobatic. Animalitos was the name printed on a box of animal crackers which we passed around. We had fun naming the second route after John Long: "Animalargos".
While we were warming up, Yabo lit up solo on one of the nearby Baskerville cracks. He was always charging out on something iffy, maybe hoping for approval, but mostly getting his fix. Watching him was kind of yucky. He shook nervously for a good portion of his daily baptism.
A year earlier, I'd had my own baptism.
"Get yer chalk bags! Bachar's goin' to The Beaver!!!" Mari rallied the troops … and anybody who thought they could hang, came with.
We were cliquish as hell. But it was a meritocracy, and people generally self-selected, because the atmosphere was inclusive. The Kirkatron, a pumpy traverse named after the eccentric saxophonist Rahsaan Roland Kirk (idolized by Jimi Hendrix), was one of Bachar's favorite workout venues. So we would all sling laps on the reddish monzonite at the base of Sports Challenge Rock and share a top rope on Leave It to Beaver.
When I buzzed across the traverse, Mari hollered, "Where did we get this kid?", but I snapped off a hold and flew onto my back. I was getting strong, but still a little green.
There were times when being out bouldering was the better call, if just to stay warm. This also suited group activities. There is a water wheel affect when climbing in a collective. Examples get set. People try harder. We made each other better by pushing one another. And as part of his meticulous nature and personal flair, Bachar started wearing these idiosyncratic color-coordinated sports outfits. He was a pro, and acted the part.
Gil Scott Heron: "The revolution will not be televised!" The Last Poets: "Black is you, black is me, black is us, black is free." Bachar had soulful and eclectic tastes in jazz. He could also be sharply standoffish, reciting cutting jabs from Frank Zappa while bouldering stuff you couldn't touch.
Boulder problems and ratings? With Bachar you got the John Gill scale. B1, B2, B3. For a while there, only if something was really stiff, would we let it be called B1. Some of us mortals could do those if we really dug deep. Then there were the "Bachar problems". Usually B1+ or harder. From there, it could get confusing and was open to interpretation. B3 was only allotted to problems which one person could do. As soon as it had a second ascent, the problem automatically became B2. And B2, as far as Bachar was concerned, was virtually nonexistent, reserved only for the very hardest problems. And then he told me: "Just look at Gill's scale, Roy. B1 starts at F10, which is 5.10a or b." So, unless you were Bachar, B1 comprised nearly the whole range, because everything from V0, up to about V7, was just B1, maybe B1+ …
Bachar had gone down to Patagonia with Mike Graham and Bridwell. This was just before Bridwell's ascent of Cerro Torre with Steve Brewer. Spring of '79, Bachar, Erik, Lynn, Mike, Mari, Dan Goodwin, and I went on an overnight trip into The Wonderland, for an ascent of Hyperion Arch. During the hike in, John regaled us with stories of hanging with Bridwell on the train, its steel wheels gravely thundering deeply into South America. They swallowed small chips of acid to pass the time, and eventually aborted the expedition. At the base of their intended route, an avalanche had covered their supplies. Bachar and Graham soon left the stalwart Bridwell to his own devices.
The night before we all climbed Hyperion, campfire and reefer-driven chat provided a cheerful eddy in the cold black night of the desert. As we were zipping into our bags for a night of rest beneath the ceiling of stars, Bachar showed us how to make a bed of coals, covered with a thick layer of sand to keep his Blonde God physique extra warm. So he set it all up and rolled his sleeping mat directly over the coals, which were just a little bit submerged in sand. Somewhere in the middle of our sleep, I awoke to hear Erik giggling. Bachar was hustling about in small fits because he had been getting overheated by the coals. Even legends feel the burn.
One very cold morning after the mass Hyperion ascent, when I was scurrying along the edge of B loop with Lechlinski, getting geared up for the day, Bachar was already halfway up Howard's Horror Direct. He was in the zone, piloting his solo capsule.
"He's crazy, it's way too cold for this. Don't follow that example."
Lechlinski a.k.a. Mo, was 26 and I was just 18. Powerful and intimidating, but with a youthful face and a kind of charm which made him seem years younger, he had a solid presence and was an uncanny nonverbal communicator. So when he spoke, there would usually be some kernel of wisdom in his words.
Mo borrowed Bachar's BMX bike and Evans loaned me his Schwinn stingray death bike and we rode to Keys View. The peddling put heat in our bodies and the effort felt good. It's a few miles, all uphill, we were under-geared, and we weren't seasoned riders, so it was kind of an event.
The descent was fast and fun. I was really stoned. I soaked up the sensations from the mechanics of the speeding bike, rubber tires humming over the grainy road, and Mike's bike whirring along to the side, his body hunched over in a tuck. When we got back to camp, Shockley came up to me, "I hear you and Mike pedaled out to Keys view!" Dick was being congratulatory and it felt special. I was beginning to be part of something – something real and vital and absolutely necessary to the survival of the soul.
Roy McClenahan, May 4, 2016
..................................................................
Another cold weekend at Josh, early 1979, Scatterbrain campsite. Fingertips shredded. Guns holstered. Somebody produced a tape measure and indexed Largo's cranium. One thing led to another and then we were measuring the standing broad jump, grandstanding for Bachar as he let fly.
Mari, Jessica, Roy, Cashner, Largo, Lynn, Bachar:
photo, Dean Fidelman
(the photo is cropped from an 11 x 17, hand-delivered from Dean by Lynn, which hangs in my world headquarters office)
...................................................................
In the photo below, taken the same weekend as the picture above, we see Lynn Hill on the cover of Mountain Magazine, making the FA of a tall boulder problem in Josh. On this day a bunch of us had spread out into the desert, into the Asteroid Belt, including Juan Largo, Rick Cashner, Randy Vogel, Lynn, maybe Erik, and a few others, scouting for new problems.
Some of us were blazing that day ...
photo, Randy Vogel
.................................................................
Commemorative poster featuring Yabo on Planet X, courtesy of Dean Fidelman
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Great writing and photo shares, Roy.
Thanks so much!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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The best of the bestest, Thanks Roy!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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So I'm digging through the DEEP archives and found this one of RV on the FA of Swept Away. I'm looking for the Shawn Curtis prints.
Drilling the second bolt.
He drilled the first pitch and the belay. I led and did the 2nd p in one push.
I got pretty fired up when Roy posted the photos from the Mtn. Mag article and my glorious shot didn't appear. I will find it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Voilà
Dave Evans, FA of Swept Away, November 1977:
photo, Randy Vogel
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Our whole world revolved around 'weekends"
You LA guys. In San Diego we went 24/7, bitches. I got yer Ho Mannnnn right here, Holmes!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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You LA guys. In San Diego we went 24/7, bitches.
Yeah, that may be... but we never taped for size. Aiders on a roll bitches.... Suk it!!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Funny how ' Hoh Man " , a bit of a secret password , spread and to this day invokes laughter ...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Sure ... weekends.
Followed by Monday morning $1.99 breakfast at Don Ricardo's with Russ, Larry Loads, Mo, Driver.
Plus Stony on Tuesday, fingertip pull-up contests on the Boxer's door trim on Wednesday, Rubidoux on Thursday ...
And don't get me started about those early 80s multiple-Denny's-stop-pie-coffee-psychotropic-infused all nighter Friday drives out to Josh with The Fish after his machine shop let him off the leash ...
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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It was all those pebbles down in San Diego that kept the real crags free of vermin.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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I was beginning to be part of something – something real and vital and absolutely necessary to the survival of the soul.
Roy.... very true. I was asked one time by one of the young dudes at SP "so this Stonemaster thing did you need to join like a club?" or something along those lines....
My reply.... we didn't start out thinking we were special in anyway, we were just very young and we were having a blast with this rockclimbing thing. If you were luckey enuf to have lived in those times and you had something to offer, you became part of the group, and the group swallowed you up.
I reall love that shot of DE on swept away... really shows the whole "I made it to this good hold, now WTF do I do with it? "
Keep it up Roy, your making my day.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Tagging along to watch Bachar lead the Beav.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Great story Roy. Keep it up, you're making my week. It was great fun being part of the group...it's amazing how new memories keep popping up. I heard that Ho Man! a few times climbing up Suicide as JL was below me looking up ; )
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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For one thing for sure
We need LA Women on every page
But it could be Marge, she has blond curly hair
Name that Crag?
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Of course our Sheep Buggerer crew were all Geniuses in one realm or another
some in numerous exploits all at one time
That's what brought us together
Have you seen the sewing stitches on the latest Fish Gear. Very impressive!!
Booges, mathematician
swellyman, packaged goody management
DE, Advanced County Bird Watching authority
Moonie, scientist, tele skier, still fuzzy (according to unnamed sources)
Tar, writer, runner's wife
Mims, artist
The Fist, artist
Manx, vacuum salesman
Driver, Billionaire
Loads, Real Estate Mogul
Schumtzfink, hedge fund manager at Goldman Sachs
Mo, retired
I could go on..
but will have to do alittle more research
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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E, genius in developing a lifestyle so he can climb almost all he wants at the highest level for 40 years and into the future
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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This photo seems to pop every time you Google Sheep Buggerer
Part of the Russ collection
hopefully Russ can tell us more
She is wearing EBs, but they look like 3 sizes too big!
so it's old
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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^^^^
Part of the McClenahan archives. I think she is wearing John Shermans shoes.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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How about the Bull Testes??? Buggerer for sure.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Name that Crag?
Looks like Roadside Attraction.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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E, genius in developing a lifestyle so he can climb almost all he wants at the highest level for 40 years and into the future
E, is amazing. In a league by himself.
but enuf of him.... got any more pics of Sue??? post em up
Question.... so when did Clark, join the scene? IIRC, he was always out climbing with like 3 or 4 hawt chicks.... and he kept them all to himself.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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monkey
You win
Pick up your prize after we hang up
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Nice pic of Cilly at his peak
What's holding up his right arm??
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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An unlikely historic figure in the climbing world
The Manxy Dude
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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LA Woman...I can't believe the park rangers let you walk around the park dressed like that...Hadn't you heard about painters pants and rugby shirts..?
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Jeff, LOVE the pic of E...looks like a Viking Warrior.
Guy, a league by himself and still blasting at 49 ;)
Johnny, moved to Hawaii so I wouldn't have to wear much : )
Now I'm blushing...
Roy keep it up...15 more school days. Thank you for your devotion, research,
photos, time it takes to make it all come together, and how it's giving everyone
a load of great memories and warm fuzzies. Aloha nui brah.
P.S. The Ho Man! was on Tahquitz not Suicide, but who remembers anyhow?
Anyone want to have a reunion in the Valley at the end of June???
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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LA Woman...Valley reunion...? Which one...? San Fernando or San Juaquin..?
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Johnny, why Yosemite of course. I haven't been in year's, perhaps it's a mad house, idk
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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The coolest thing about the ManxyDude is how is name is engraved on real permanent signs leading to his namesake boulders... The Manx Boulders. Even the Park Service recognized his brilliance and immortalized him on a few metal and spaceage laminate signs.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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The Manx Boulders.
i luv the manx boulders! They got a little of everything Josh has to offer, along with pigpen of course. and it one of the only places i feel safe to boulder alone.
Often wondered where they got the name. Doubt if the park rangers were the innovators tho? must have been a guide book provocateur?
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Hope Johnny doesn't make it...
What about a Tuolumne reunion? Large campsite? Loads of fun?
Manx, are you out there? Howzit in Aussie land?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yes, Vikki, you're welcome!
Totally agree about Manx being an unlikely historic figure in the climbing world.
And yes, immortalized with signage! Touché!
Hadn't realized over all those years he had climbed The Salathe. Got to be a feather in his cap!
But then when you understand, after Mooney climbed The Nose (with Fish? Boxer?) that he declared it: VERTICAL BACKPACKING, well ...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Tarbuster, Figures on a Landscape, 1981/1982:
photos, Shawn Curtis
Skip Guerin, "topping out" on Pigpen, 1984:
Skip and Mo, clowning around, Turtle Rock boulders, 1984:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mike Paul, A Streetcar Named Desire, 1984:
(Mark Rolofson ... spotting !)
Speaking of Michael J. Paul, check out the story below.
Once you reach a short passage about The Vato Mike Paul, you'll read one of the absolute best lines of shitt talking EVER!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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SHELLY'S MANNE-HOLE
Exactly one year after the Miles Davis album Kind of Blue was released, I was born in Sierra Madre California, within spit-shot of the rugged San Gabriel Mountains, August 17, 1960. Kind of Blue is noted as the best-selling jazz record of all time.
My father had been into jazz since the end of the Korean War. The first music I remember hearing, was jazz. My mother worked a few stretches of swing shift at her job with the Pasadena Police Department, so Rodger had me to himself on those evenings. I feel fortunate to have retained some these very early childhood memories.
Between the ages of two and four years old, I would sit in a big black naugahyde easy chair, listening to jazz on the radio. As Rodger prepared dinner, he kept me satiated and entertained by feeding me olives and radishes while I listened to the music.
In those days, the early 60s, I recall much more vibraphone, or vibes, being played on the jazz stations. The playlist also seemed more trumpet-centric, whereas in later years, and even now I see the emphasis on saxophone. We lived in Southern California, so naturally, the smoother, more introspective West Coast jazz ruled the local airwaves at the time.
There was a radio commercial which got a lot of air time, and it entreated the listener to come out to Shelly Manne's jazz club, which was cleverly named: Shelly's Mann-Hole. Shelley Manne was said to of been one of the most musical drummers around and he was big into the West Coast cool jazz scene.
"What's a manhole, daddy?"
"It's a round metal cover which blocks a big hole in the street. It lets men get down beneath the street in case they need to work on the storm drains and sewers."
"So they play jazz music down there? And there's a guy on a microphone down there? And they make radio from under the street?"
In the 70s my dad liked Quincy Jones, Chuck Mangione, and the compositions and arrangements of Michelle Legrand. He enjoyed playing Mangione's The Land of Make-Believe for my little sister. Sometimes in my early teens, I would thumb through his record collection. Visually, the album that sticks in my mind most is the cover of Milestones. Miles Davis sits on a stool against a burnt orange background. He looks thicker in the face and of better physical constitution than he did in many other photographs. On that album cover, Miles is the solid, serious artist. He holds out his trumpet firmly as if to say: THIS.
I was an inquisitive child. I asked a lot of questions. My father sent me to private schools until third grade. To answer my incessant questioning, to which he already knew most of the answers, Dad bought me a set of Colliers Encyclopedia. I mostly just looked at a section which featured a colorful array of world flags and another which highlighted the varied insignias of U.S. Army uniforms. Rodger eventually read all of those encyclopedias cover to cover. He was a voracious reader and when in his 30s and 40s, many said he could have challenged a graduate degree in history. He had a mathematical appreciation of music.
Rodger had a smooth face with just a wrinkle between his eyebrows. He was of average height, at 5'9". His thin dark brown hair receded, but I never saw much of any gray. For my entire life, he had burly forearms and a beer belly. When he worked on cars, he immediately began sweating like the prolific tennis champion Rafael Nadal, bearing down on the final set of a match.
"Rodge" considered himself a sociopath, which is doubtful on many fronts, but he didn't mince words, that's for sure. In the 1970s and 1980s I became a rock climber. We climbers spent many nights out in the cold and ravaged our bodies on the stone and lived hard at times. Most of us were inculcated with 70s drug culture. During that period in my life, some climbing buddies visited my family home. One of them was a bit war worn, but had earned his wizened visage, indulging many antics and bold adventures.
"Hey dad, this is my friend Mike."
"Hey there, Mike. Want a beer? I see you could use one, you look like 40 miles of bad road. Whatever you've been doing, it's aging you!"
When I was in my early 50s and he was in his late 70s, I asked Rodger what he liked to listen to most. He said, "East Coast jazz. Hard bop."
"What about all those Stan Kenton records you have?"
"That's before I knew what I was doing."
Rodger had a good life for a war orphan from Nazi Germany. John Wayne movies convinced him at 16 years old that the adventure of war was where it was at. He lied about his age to the recruiters, and got himself into the Army a year early. He survived the Korean War and became interested in sports car racing at the invite of my grandfather. For 35 years he had just one job, working as an equipment installer for Ma Bell's Western Electric. He wrenched on cars with his pals and worked as a corner flagman at Riverside International Raceway for almost 30 years. He drank mountains of beer and wine, smoked 2 to 3 packs of menthols a day, and lived happily into his early 80s.
He was hard to kill. He'd been in the hospital for a short stay, with cardiac and other issues and defied all of the doctors. Some of his numbers were extremely good for his age and others indicated he shouldn't have lived another minute. The end was imminent, yet he still continued on for a number of months and in a fairly robust state. We said our goodbyes.
"Roy, I've got one foot on a roller skate and the other on a banana peel."
I couldn't complain when he died. I just saw too many positives to his life and he had been a good father. Physically solid, but heart failing, while loading a case of bottled water into the back of his truck, he went out like a light. That was the expression he would use when my little sister and I were tired kids and fell asleep quickly. I like to say he shopped till he dropped.
I recently acquired 30 vinyl record albums from his collection. (I have yet to get the old 78 rpm records). Given that he said he liked hard bop, I have found it interesting that most of what he bought, purchased in the mid-to-late 50s, is predominantly West Coast cool jazz. Shorty Rogers, Stan Getz, The Lighthouse All-Stars. There's some good stuff bridging away from swing, but not yet bop. The 3 Herds: Woody Herman and his Orchestra. Adventures in Rhythm: Pete Rugolo and his Orchestra. Elliot Lawrence Plays Jerry Mulligan Arrangements.
I'm schooling myself on the history of jazz and the more I read, the more I put it together. With where we grew up, I see why his collection has so much West Coast cool jazz. His modus operandi was to listen and to read. In those days, that process took time. By the time he knew enough to understand his own particular taste, he was raising a family and could no longer justify extras like hi-fi records to indulge his musical interests.
He did have Kind of Blue and Milestones in his collection. Both records ventured into modal jazz, but in Milestones hard bop comes through. I've had those vinyl records of his in my possession for years, because I knew what they were and he let me have them long ago.
I can see why my dad eventually settled in with hard bop. It's how I remember him. Bouncy, upbeat, and can-do. To get a feel for those rhythms and textures and colors that were Rodger, listen to Sonny Rollins: Saxophone Colossus. Throughout my youth he was a compulsive whistler. Now that I have worked through more of his music and read about different styles, I see that he was whistling hard bop!
In my late teens I was into rock and roll and jazz fusion, and that wasn't Rodger's deal. Fathers and sons grow apart. But, when I was 19 years old, I took a young woman named Jeanette down to Hermosa Beach, to see some jazz at Shelly's Manne-Hole. The club felt tiny, and crammed inside next to the tables was a small ensemble doing improvisational jazz. That's bebop in a nutshell isn't it? Of course it has to swing! I really didn't know what I was hearing at the time, but I wanted to like it.
We stayed for a while, had drinks. Then Jeanette got bored with it so we left. We were just a few steps down the sidewalk and briefly looked inside another club as we passed by. A self-conscious rock 'n roller stood defiantly, shod in red tights and knee-high lace up leather boots, making tonal wreckage with his guitar. Jeanette swung her dark brown shoulder length hair around and pointed her perfect nose up in the air toward me, then peaked her eyebrows.
"Maybe that's what we need to check out!"
As she held my arm, I wheeled her around, we picked up our pace on the sidewalk and just kept on moving. I couldn't do it!
Just yesterday I was hiking into the verdant Gregory Canyon, to the right of Chautauqua Park in Boulder Colorado. The red powdery trail beneath my feet was rimmed with rivulets of melted spring runoff and the green scrub along the trail was dotted with aromatic spring blooms. White snows still coated the pointed summits of the surrounding peaks. The Flatirons lay above the steep green lawn at the edge of the manicured path, their slender rectangular faces organized like keys on a vibraphone.
I thought about Milestones, the namesake tune of the album, and how evocative it is of the feeling of spring. I drank in nature's fecundity and felt the rhythms of jazz driving all of it. There is such lively, productive, and hopeful movement in Milestones. It is much like water burbling, green grass swaying in active breezes, flowers rhythmically popping open, little creatures busily scurrying about in the verge.
My old man liked driving. Before I was a teenager, I went lots of places with him in his car, just the two of us. We would race along the edges of the guard rail of the Pasadena Freeway in his Porsche speedster. It felt risky but controlled and I liked the sense of speed. It was here that I learned about confidence under duress.
He would take me to Will Rogers State Beach and the sand always stuck between my toes on the ride home. We did lots of errands together. Rodger would bring me along to his favorite Caldwell Tires in Pasadena. Steeped in the pungent smell of fresh rubber and clanking airguns, he talked shop with his racing buddies.
Rodger liked to drive us up to Altadena to get haircuts in his favorite barbershop. While waiting my turn, I looked at superhero comics books and uncoiled the tiny comic strips wound around pink squares of Bazooka bubblegum. At the end of the cut, there was always the slightly irritating feeling of stiff bristles against my neck as the barber cleaned up. Sitting in that barber chair, with mirrors in front and behind, I marveled at the reflections repeating into infinity.
At the finish of these adventures, I was usually very sleepy. My father would back our car into the garage and had a habit of un-clicking his seatbelt as he shut the engine off, letting the car coast the remaining 10 or 20 feet into the garage. Then, without fail, the un-snapping of his seatbelt would stir me just before the car came to a halt. To be sure I was awake and ready to move on, and in a fatherly sing-song, he would whisper aloud: "End of the line."
Milestones:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Saxophone Colossus:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Kind of Blue:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kind_of_Blue
Shelly's Manne-Hole:
http://jazzprofiles.blogspot.com/2008/08/manne-hole-part-1.html
East Coast/West Coast:
http://hubpages.com/entertainment/East_Coast_West_Coast_Jazz_in_the_50s
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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great evocations, Tarbuster...
a fine draft.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Lisa and I have been married 16 years.
May 6, … It's our anniversary!
Pretty sure I won the life partner sweepstakes.
One of my favorite pictures of THE BUNNY (she's a hopper), on the left, during a 36 mile run up Haleakala.
She WON the race!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Great stuff Roy.
That run looks core. I bet the humidity was brutal.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Thanks fellas.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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congratulations! long may you (both continue to) rule
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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And write like it matters!
Thanks, Jeff & Hoob.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Lisa, on Safari:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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One of my all-time favorite portraits of E!
Atlantis, Needles of Cali, 1983:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Spencer, Evans, lovely redhead, Rob Stahl, 2006 Reunion:
Yeah that's the ticket ... this thread needs more Spencer Lennard, and more BVB!
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Roy, congratulations to you and your cute honey "bunny" on your 16th!
The humidity is horrendous at times, do you ever get to Maui? 17 minute flight to Kona.
Hope the two of you have a great day. Thanks for the pic of E, cutie ; )
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Spencer, Craig and DEE, boulder session prep
Somethings never change.
Roy congratulations on 16 years.... time fly's when your having fun.
Any Photos of Dan Leichtfuss? IIRC he was one of those SD people.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Roy! Thanks for all the writing. You too Dave and Craig. You guys have brought a lot of good memories back up. We really did live thru some golden years.
One of my fondest memories of you guys is when you asked Hauser if you could borrow his van to get out of the wind. We look in a couple minutes later and you had the mirror off the wall and are doing lines. He was so straight I thought he might die of shock. I did finally get him to drink tequila some nights around the campfire.
Jan
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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What happened to Little Laura?
I forgot.
For L.A.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Nice write up Roy, keep them coming. (RIP Roger)
It was during one of the door-jam pull ups, bong-loads, sht talking and listening to music way too loud sessions at the Boxer’s house in 1979, when Roy shows up and regales us with stories about climbing with this guy Erik, who he informed us was, “The best face climber in North America”.
Shortly after this Roy invited me to go ice climbing in Lee Vining with him, Erik and their friend Lou. I was a little more than intimidated to meet Erik given his reputation. I think the only reason Roy invited me was so I could fill a pipe as I had just procured a bag. We all rented cross country skis from the now defunct Alta sport and headed up to Lee Vining for the weekend. Lou had a couple of Lowe Big Bird axes (state of the art at the time), Roy had some Forrest tool we ended up nicknaming the plate maker because every time he set the tool a large plate of ice would come raining down. One giant block of ice hit me in the shoulder basically giving me a neurapraxic lesion, paralyzing my arm for about 4 days, because I couldn’t use my arm E ended up belaying both Roy and Lou at the same time while I crawled away from the bombardment to lick my wounds and watch from the sidelines. I ended up meeting Erik again at Pasadena City College.
Erik at one time or another ended up mentoring all of us; Roy, Russ (The Fish), Greg (the Driver), Karl (the Boxer), Kent (Manx), myself (Moonie) and I am sure many others, giving us all a leg up in our climbing.
Here are a couple of shots from that weekend (winter of 1979-1980) back when ice climbers wore wool and needed two hands to set a screw.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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In the pit toilet??
Wow, a lot of wasted hours were spent looking everywhere except the most logical place.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Roy, That piece lightened up my otherwise tedious day. Great stuff. And, Congratulations on your and Lisa's anniversary. Been up Haleakala and running that is impressive.
To add a tid-bit about the DE picture on the FA of Swept Away. Dave has traversed off the hanging belay, and is trying to get situated on some rather poor footholds to pull out his hammer and drill a bolt. It seems like it would make a good picture. So, I pull out my Nikon, focus and shoot (this is really a two hand maneuver), while trying to maintain some semblance of hip belay. I don't think Dave was pleased...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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IIRC that bolt on Swept Away is a sketchy spot to hang out as it is, nevermind actually having to drill!
Doug: the plate maker was a Snowdon Curver. Orange shaft. A hand-me-down from E.
Thanks for the pictures!
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2016 - 03:38pm PT
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So sad about Laura Bradbury^^^^
Hey Roy,
Before finishing your story I was already googling and listening to Sonny Rollins, St Thomas, then got to the bottom of the read to see you had already posted all those great jazz pieces, ha ha. Guess I jumped the gun but the story about you and your dad really got me to remembering my brief period of interest in jazz, the Bird, Coltrane and other greats.
Solid writing dude, bring it.
-bushman
PS
Happy Anniversary and many more to you and your true beloved!
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Doug (Moonie),
Thanks so much for the history and the photos.
I am really enjoying all of this...the stories, laughs,
and most of all, the reconnecting.
Have a great weekend everyone! Aloha Friday, V
Roy, you're still the best in my book :)
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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La LA women
do you live in Hawaii or Pasadena?
more questions
How did you end up with the Russ crew
was one of them a BF,
tell all, before E
Thanks
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2016 - 05:19pm PT
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Swept Away on a Winter's Day
Swept Away, the classic Evans/Vogel route, was one of the more striking face routes like Figures on a Landscape that I always wanted to do in the years while I climbed at Joshua Tree.
On a cold winter morning around '78 or '79 my older brother and I hiked to the base of Swept Away and uncoiled a worn red rope below a shadowed wall. It was one of those rare occasions where we ever partnered and after my sketchy first pitch lead, I gladly took a position belaying from the butt bag and scanned the route ahead. What route? Aside from a few obvious flakes, in the early light I didn't know how it would go.
Tobin passed me at the belay and after padding my ego for my lead, he cast off to the first bolt. He made a few quick scrunching and unwinding moves and progressed upwards rapidly. At the blank looking crux I don't remember that he ever paused. Soon it was off belay and I dreaded the exit from my cocoon at the hanging belay for what seemed an ominous duty, at best I hoped to be able to clean the gear. My poor skills at that grade were evident as I blew off well before the hardest moves and hung there. Tobin yelled to me from above.
"What's happening, did you pass the crux yet?" To my dismay I could only holler for him to lower me. After a short back and forth exchange he persuaded me to return to the belay and rest before trying it again. Second time around I fell twice but got back on to finally finish under max tension. Winded and soaked in sweat on the forty five degree day I joined him up top, but I was thrashed. Tobin was so positive, telling me, "you'll get it next time and, that was probably a solid eleven."
A couple years after that Tobin departed us, and I went back there a wiser, stronger, and more experienced leader with a solid partner (Roy?) On that sunny spring day I gave the route my best effort. The crux was at my fingertips, but the sequence eluded me and I took a good ten or fifteen foot fall. I jumped back on it straight away and after some mental mechanics and perseverance, it yielded. Of course my partner cruised it, but my mind was in the clouds, for I could only imagine I had my big bro up there congratulating me at belay.
-Tim Sorenson
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Craig,
Look at the post on April 10 at 9:13 pm. I don't know how to screen shot on the new computer. I grew up in SG. Had a BF in HS for 3 years. After that, went to PCC and met the buggers. Played lots of hacky sack and started going out to JT with The Fishes friend Derek Olin (Moonie posted a pic of he, Bushman,and E). Erik showed up second semester 1980 and it was love at first sight. We lived together for 5 years until 1985. I had to finish college and E had to keep living the lifestyle. Went to Cal Poly SLO for many degrees and credentials. Moved to Hawaii in 1990 to be a school counselor. Had twin boys 1993. Currently in the midst of a divorce and hope to be back in LA at the end of the year. I think you're obsessed with the LA woman photo...do you like my butt? V
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Me, Mike and Mari did the second ascent of Swept Away the next weekend
I led the second pitch and found the pro to completely suck
so after spending too much time fiddling with mank, I finally gave up and just fired past to the jugs above
There are some nice moves above the crux
As we walked back to our cars, we saw Lynne Hill take this Yuugge whipper on EBGBs (30ish ft), and then went right back up and fired it
I will remember that day because of this extra visual
she just floated down like a fairy and the fall was like no biggy for her.
I'm like, if I fell like that, it would not ever be what I just saw, it would be epic.
Thanks Vic
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Spencer Lennard on what looks to be some five star boulder problem
after Lycra was banned
San Diego Bent looking on
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Early ascent of New Generation, '75
Place your guesses on who they might be
I was 16 at the time, just taking photos and doing 5.8 max
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Friend
climber
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I led the crux on Swept Away in 1999, I was so proud. Belayed by none other than Dave Evans himself. What a class act and all around awesome guy.
Tim, very touching post about Tobin. And Roy, jesus man, the post about your dad just about made me cry half a dozen times. Phenomenal. As others have said, keep it up!!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jan thanks for the memory.
After we had borrowed the use of Dave's van on that very windy day Dave said to us"you guys have a monkey on your back."
That became the working title for the route in progress"Monkey on my back."
Later under Randy's volition, without consulting the other members of the first party, the route name became"figures on a landscape."
I'm posting on my iPhone from the shepherds hot springs near mammoth!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Dee Eee....Shepards tub..? You running with the sheep out there..?
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Jesus H Christ
This thread not only blows mind...it's what make SuperTopp so SUPER!
Damn. All the crap that gets posted....I don't even bother to look any more. Except when The Mighty Thor points me to something priceless like THIS!
Just amazing. Thanks Roy. Thanks everyone. I feel blessed to have know most of you...some for part of my life, some to this day. Climbing just RULZ so hard! Gotta love it. Btw, dowloaded most of the photos.
Roy, at your Gordo party you told me that you and your friends always liked me and Vicki back in the day. Well...that meant a lot to me, and of course we felt the same way back...still do!
Lovalovalove this thread...carry on y'all!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Definitely Hensel belaying in that B&W of New Gen. Maybe Bobby Kessinger getting ready to lead 2nd pitch.
Posting from Android phone on the toilet. ;)
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Other possible names
Barimia, S. Curtis, Jim Wilson?
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Indeed, looks like Bearamia (sp?) sitting on top of wall. And, could be Jim Wilson (Rubidoux variety) with Hennie.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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I haven't done New Gen since the mid-80's, but I remember the hard climbing starting straight away from, No-Go ledge and going straight up, but in the photo it makes it look like you traverse way off to the right before heading up. That's a great shot. Loved those mass assaults on Suicide routes. My memories are still pretty crisp!
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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I think you're obsessed with the LA woman photo...do you like my butt? V
How about an updated photo?
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Friend,
My sentiments also to Tim and Roy's shared writings. Continue on gentlemen and never stop pouring it out.
Hummerchine,
Glad you're also loving this awesome thread filled with wondrous memories of BITD.
Are there 2 Vikki's?
Are you speaking of me?
The V that was with E?
Please tell me who you be...
Overwatch: NOT
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Roy-Loved the portrait of your father! Heartfelt and poignant, what a pleasure to read.
"You look like 40 miles of bad road" is outstanding! What a character.
Reminds me of the time an old climbing friend came from the airport to my work in downtown Denver, so that I could take him to my house. The receptionist pondered his weathered visage and his big pack, rang me over the intercom, and whispered,
"There is a homeless man here to see you."
This thread's an all-timer, thanks for all the photos and contributions.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Overwatch: NOT
Worth a shot
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Roy/
loved that piece about your father.
It read like jazz.
Imagine that.
This whole thread is awesome, thanks.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Swelly
I hope your slides aren't repeats of mine!
Tar told me to take the photo down
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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I found V on-line
Nice Butt!
My friend
Russ's friend
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Vikki Vernola, meet Tom Michael a.k.a. Hummerchine's lovely wife, Vicki.
Seen here with Tom Carter, El Cap Meadow, May 1987:
...................................................................
In the photograph, they are scoping, literally …
This guy …
… Guiding this guy, Giuliano, up The Nose:
Here's the skinny on our guided ascent of The Nose:
The patron of our ascent, Inge Vogle, was an heiress connected to the Werner Von Braun Huntsville Alabama WWII rocket program. She hailed from Switzerland at the time of our climb, in 1987. She really, really wanted to meet us on the summit of El Capitan in a helicopter and couldn't understand why the Park service wouldn't allow it!
So, instead of using the East Ledges, we walked out to Tamarack to a meet Inge at her rented motorhome stocked with a feast including limitless bottles of Italian Barolo and Far Niente Chardonnay. This was the first time YMS conducted a guided ascent of El Capitan. We did it in two parties of two. The other guide was Doug Nidever. Inge had rooms kept for Doug and me in the Ahwahnee the entire time we were on the wall, just in case we came down early.
She also rented the Queen's Suite on the top floor of the Ahwahnee, so we could dine there in private. (I think that is all of the seventh floor). She didn't like the dress code requirements for eating down in the public dining room so eventually just rented out the entire Basket Room for our private lunches and dinners, which grew to include many Yosemite locals.
Our wall food was mostly cooked by the Ahwahnee and we filled zip lock bags from seven silver trays of food prepared by the hotel, all laid out for us on a long table up on the seventh floor. It was May, and the weather was cool and we climbed through storms and even some snow, which the Italians liked!
I've never done a TR on this because I only have half of the pictures.
Maybe I could spin this into something worthy of an article for Alpinist, if I get more pictures.
I recently Googled my client, Giuliano Trucco, and see that he appears happy and healthy and still skiing (and probably climbing) in Cervinia.
Doug's client,Walter Cazzanelli, is also present in the link below.
I have a friend who speaks fluent Italian and could probably reconnect me with those guys. Better do it while we are all still alive!
Le Guide Alpine del Cervino:
http://www.guidedelcervino.com/content.asp?ID=2
Inge Vogle, our patron for The Nose (Center, in pink),
On left, Bruce Brossman. To the right of Inge, Giuliano Trucco and Doug Nidever:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Craig,
... more high school darkroom nuggets from Suicide BITD, less random fluff, if you please?
... And that pic of mine you keep posting is Sue Wint. Courtesy Sue & Charlie Fowler.
.....................................................................
Sue is Da Bomb. Cruises 5.11 in loose shoes. Totally good natured person.
Sue, Eldo:
Sue, Pingora:
*Sue is the Vikki Vernola of the Boulder climbing scene!
(sort of ...)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Hensel, Thin Red Line:
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Roy- man, I'll never forget your story from the Winds with those gals.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I know, huh, with the magic mushrooms and everything.
You remembered!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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*Just gave Lisa an awesome foot rub,
So, I'm good to go with some more goofy stuff here for you cool cats!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Erik Eriksson .... MENTOR. Just like Munoz said!
No lie.
This is how it's done:
Photo, Ed Kaufer
*(E and I, With Ed Kaufer, heading up into Mount Watkins, South face, 1981)
I actually had a number six stopper in. It fell out and E was clueless as of the taking of the photograph.
Also, my pack strap had just come loose, so I was in a bit of a pickle.
Good mentorship, clearly, is all about ... Cripes, what is it all about?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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David Evans said:
After we had borrowed the use of Dave's van on that very windy day Dave said to us "you guys have a monkey on your back."
That was the day you and Randy and Craig powdered your noses for a solo train on Walk on the Wild Side, yes?
I was there for that!
I think it was Larry Loads and me, after climbing in the Hall of Horrors, who spied you guys doing that ascent, cordless.
Good call ... good call.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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TB, thanks for reposting that Thin Red Line.
Those shots of Sue were causing me to ...., breathtaking!
i've walked by that Line many times wishing to feel burn..
Is that a JW Rte?
i like hearing the roundabout of the FA's on this thread the most!
You know, what was going on up to, and the FA day. Keeps me on the edge of my seat..
:)
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Me and Booges did Thin Red Line TR
It was cool.
It was easier than we thought it would be
The Walk on the Wild Side Story will have to be posted again
Maybe from Sketchy, or DE
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Randy Vogel said:
Indeed, looks like Bearamia
Yes, this thread needs more Kim Carpenter a.k.a. Dave Carpenter a.k.a. Bearamiah!
And we thought Clark Jacobs was the ladies man!
With Maria and Mari, 2006 reunion:
Photo, Dave Wonderly
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Me and Booges did Thin Red Line TR
Right on!
didnt Jonny W. lead it though?
or maybe Michael Paul?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yabo ... Blazing
photo, Blitzo
................................................................
Commemorative poster featuring Yabo, Planet X, courtesy Dean Fidelman:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Thin Red Line, FA (TR) Ron Fawcett, 1985. First lead: Jonny Woodward and Darrel Hensel. (no date given)
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Woodward did the second ascent of Thin Red Line, a few minutes after I did the FA. Fawcett had TR'd the line prior to that.
Might have ended up with more than 2 bolts on the route, except JW told me to go for it and refused to send up the bolt kit. But, that's an old story that's been told before.
Edit: Roy beat me to it...
I ended up doing the FA as opposed to JW since he was a little unmotivated after having nearly grounded the day before (on a different route).
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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My info comes from Bartlett's guide. Looks like he has your names reversed.
I wonder if Vogel has the correct order of attribution?
[edit] Actually, Darrel, from reading your post, the correct attribution is to leave Woody's name out of it!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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To my mind, the Team B trifecta is:
Swept Away, 5.11a, FA: Dave Evans and Randy Vogel, November 1977.
Figures on a Landscape, 5.10b/c, Randy Vogel and Dave Evans, November 1978. (Ahem, 10b/c for a 10d leader!)
The Last Unicorn, 5.11a, FA: (first pitch) Dave Evans, Craig Fry, and Randy Vogel, 1980. (second pitch) Alan Bartlett and Dan Michael, April 1981.
Taken from Bartlett's guides.
*Question: wasn't Spencer Lennard involved in The Last Unicorn?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Hauser, Waugh and I started bolting the Thin Red Line but none of us would commit to the crux section. We did put a TR on it and tied Hauser off hanging in the middle of the route. This was payback for him teaching us the 'meter game' when being TR'ed on Wanger Banger the day before. We did eventually come let Hauser down... after about an hour of hang time.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I was never a big fan of the meter game.
I'll walk off, thanks!
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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I see Bartlett made the same mistake a lot of people make. There isn't an "h" in Jonny's first name. What's wrong with people? Don't they realize the Brits don't even have an "h" in their alphabet? Think about it. Ever hear a Brit pronounce an "h"? I thought not.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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What is "The Meter Game?"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Ha ha.
Not Bartlett's mistake, Darrel. Mine.
I use voice control software for typing and it defaults to Johnny.
Correction made!
...............................................................
The meter game:
One of those euros, maybe that really strong germanic alpinist guy ( Reinhard Karl?) with the round glasses who visited us (and rode an avalanche down San Jacinto) ... would ask, before someone was about to be lowered from a top rope: "How many meters?"
Then, he, or whoever was belaying, (whether or not the victim had indicated any number of meters) would throw a bunch of slack in the system (IIRC, a big monkey fist knot was employed as a stop) and the lowering climber would be dropped quite some distance.
Overhanging rock preferred. It became very common at The Beaver.
Russ once let me go for about 20 feet, and started laughing, and told me my head and hair looked like a pineapple.
That party trick got old pretty quick for most of us.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Spencer was not on The Last Unicorn
I would substitute "Such a Savage" for "Swept Away" on the trifecta.
And imagine that, I first scoped them and then put the first ropes on all 3 of them!
These 3 routes have some of the best rock quality in the park.
The rock quality on "Swept Away" is just so so.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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If I'm still posting too much fluff, let me know
I don't want to ruin such a fun thread..
here is what I've been doing.
I just Google a name, go to images, and pick out some fun ones to post
Like the Manxy Dude
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Google search results
The Sheep Buggerers of JT...BITD :: SuperTopo Rock Climbing ...
http://www.supertopo.com › Climber's Discussion Forum
SuperTopo
Apr 6, 2016 - 20 posts - 15 authors
Russ Walling ... The Sheepbuggar Flow Chart was created by Russ .... Sounds like a rare sighting of the Sheep Buggerers' patron saint and ...
Thin Red Line
Henny led it but he forgot to put 2 of the bolts in.
Maybe someone needs to fix it so it could be a normal sport climb.
I just checked the guide, it's 5.12c R
Does it really need to be an "R"
maybe later today I'll go out there and fix it....
for ya
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Thought I'd post this one of Mike Casper and Rob Raker from our trip to climb Orizaba in '84 or so. Mike was a peripheral buggerer and shared our household in La Mesa with Freriks, Mooney and the Manx.
Bad info a post or two above regarding Last Unicorn. RV left the ground first and placed the first bolt. I went from there on the ill-famed "acid traverse" and placed the next bolt or two. I believe RV finished the pitch.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Craig,
LOL LOL LOL -lots of fluff on that butt!! I like the Manxy one though ; )
Thanks for all the photos. Who's the Viking puffing a fatty with Mo??
Hope I get to attend a reunion someday...fun times! Keep it up.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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Roy,
Thanks for the clarification on the Vicki's and the comparison to Sue...what a compliment! LOVE the skinny on your guided ascent of the Nose with Giuliano and the Rock Star lifestyle with Inge, good fun! I have a passion for Italians ; ) My dad was from Italia. Haven't been since the late 80's, but am brushing up on my Itailan in the hopes to hit the Dolomite mountains in the next couple years. Always enjoy the On Belay! 1981 photo no matter how many times I see it, I get a BIG grin on my face. Carry On....V
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Even grainy and crusty routes at Josh cleaned up over time. Coarse and Buggy was very crusty on the FFA:
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Serious wedggie, those shorts are tyrannical.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Jonny Woodward, in 1982/3 when he first came to the US - on an early ascent of Scary Poodles. Check out the "Contact" shoes. The change in manufacturing of EBs in 1982, to a pre-molded rand and sole, was widely criticized as a blunder that made the shoes inferior in performance. People began looking for an alternative, and the Contact was one of these shoes. But, soon, Bachar meet up with some Spaniards who had a new shoe (the Fire) and climbing shoes were never the same again.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Mari, ever fashionable, showing off the latest in Cliffhanger ear-wear.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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CLASSIC photo of Vicki and Chester (her dog) Roy! I can't believe you found it! That was May 1987...I was busy soloing The Aquarian Wall towards the end of a year-long road trip. We moved to Wenatchee July 4, got married August 17, opened our new dental practice December 7. That was rad!
(sorry LA Woman...I like Vicki's a lot but I don't think I know you)
Tom Michael
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Awesome! Since Tom Michael (Hummerchine) has honored us with a post or two. I will post this shot of him leading Semi Tough (edit- Thanks Russell)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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More Margy!
My lovely young girlfriend and now almost ex-wife (after 33 years together) Margy Floyd on the Apron. Remind me what the route is, everyone has done it......(edit) Son of Sam 5.10a???
Margy on the Traveler Buttress, Lovers Leap
Margy on Lotta Balls, Red Rocks
Margy on Ancient Arts, Fisher Towers (all free ascent)
Margy on a serious mtn. bike ride in Moab area with Greg Epperson and Jim Angione
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Pretty sure there are some notorius Sheep Buggerers in this photo. Lookin' Sketchy had *just* rolled into HVC with a box full of the new '86 JT guidebook. A huge bleating noise broke the morning silence as a woolen stampede nuzzled into the Purple Bible. A riot of wool flew into the air as pitched battles erupted in the flock over names and grades and stars and FA credits: (left to right we have Brooke Sandahl, Tim Wagner, Vogel, The Voice, Jocelyn, Epi, Schwietzer, Leavitt)
Meanwhile, over at Scumbag Central:
As Le Tarboostier relaxes and gloats, Job Well Done:
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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DEeeeEE: That looks like Semi Tough, not Panther Crack
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Dr. F was correct
First to put up ropes on a route doesn't refer to Who put the first bolt in, it means that they were part of the Party that put the ropes up first.
I scoped the Super Dome the weekend or month before, maybe with the same FA crew
while out there, we prolly checked out at this beauty,
Hyperion Arch
Not sure if it was the 2nd or 3rd free ascent that I did in 1977
a couple years before the Super Dome FA
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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One of those euros, maybe that really strong germanic alpinist guy ( Reinhard Karl?) with the round glasses who visited us (and rode an avalanche down San Jacinto) ... would ask, before someone was about to be lowered from a top rope: "How many meters?"
Largo was showing Reinhard Karl around Joshua Tree and took him to the Beaver for a top rope session. Mike, Mari, E, Jack Roberts, Reinhard’s wife, and a whole bunch of others were there. Mo was running laps and giving beta. Many of us were falling off. Reinhard had the belay set up with a munter hitch and when lowering off would ask, “How many meters? “ and then let out a ton of slack and drop you. Jack Roberts got a huge gobi on his hand from the V slot jam near the bottom and he still kept throwing himself at the climb ripping up his mitt, when He lower off Reinhard’s wife takes a look at his bloody hand declares, “ You’re a hard man Jack”.
Largo was giving running commentary on everyone’s attempts, I pitch right near the top; had one or two moves left. Largo yells up, “Oh man, you’re only an angstrom from the top”. (Had to go home to look up what an angstrom was) Typical fun at Joshua Tree, laughs all around.
Reinhard was the first German to climb Everest along with his other accomplishments. Unfortunately, He died in an Avalanche on Cho Oyu in 1982. RIP
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Even though the Schmutzfink was a couple years late to be labeled a Sheep Bugger, he gets honorary membership
he is a pure ass sheep buggerer if there was ever one
I don't even know his real name?, like the Manx, you only know them by the Fish created nickname
I hit a gold mine if you want to relive some ST glory days
link to mussy
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/174168/Mussy-NEB-Down-N-Dirty-Part-12
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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The following post made possible by Pam Roberts!!!
Some of you may know, I am now the custodian of Jack Roberts' entire collection of 100 issues of Mountain Magazine. Beginning with numero uno.
Imagine my delight when Pam produced the issues, not in boxes, but in a pristine lock box with six drawers, a lid with hasps, and a handle.
Everybody STAND UP and say: Pam Roberts, you are the bomb!
......................................................................
Randy Vogel's 1982 article from Mountain Magazine, issue number 83:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jack!!!
photo, care of Dane Burns
(... and presumably that photographer's website tag at the bottom of the photo, which I can't quite make out)
Alaska Jack:
Jack Roberts, ambassador, snappy dresser, humorist:
.........................................................
Excellent recollection by Mooney!
You're a hard man Jack
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Thanks Cosmic
should I queue the 6666 for you?
Will that make you happy?
I like Schmutzfink better
no wonder that's the name I remember
I Goggled it already, and didn't get anything good to fluff with
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Where are the sheep you promise?
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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I didn't do sh#t
You LIE
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Cosmic needs to step up his game
and be a honest player if he wants to fit in
I told him I would delete the 6666 if he asked, he said no
he likes the attention
I will have subtract a six now
back to 666 for you
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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This thread needs more Todd Gordon ... Man or Superman?
photo, Gordon collection
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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The Deviate picture in Randy's article is my brother Dave.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Todd
with his girl friend Lynne
Sandstone nightmare
He's a lot better climber than most people realize,
here he is on some 5.12
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Best multi-pitch crack routes in Josh:
Instead of hanging belays, you MUST walk and/or drive between pitches!
These linkups were really fun to execute.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Hey Dave...was Marge on Anti-Jello Crack?
If so that was Vicki's hardest send...back when she climbed:D
(Edit: saw the Lonely Dancer post...looks correct)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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No Tom, Apron not Dome.
I could be wrong but......anyone?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Thanks Jeff, I don't have a guidebook handy but.......sounds familiar.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2016 - 08:37pm PT
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Not Harry Daley?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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I was looking for some other stuff but found this book of mega clean topos that I made back in the day.
It refutes something I said up thread but I'm good with that. I led the second pitch of Swept Away on the FA in 2 different pushes....OK what evs.
There may be other cool stuff in here.
I remember now....we went up in the late afternoon and I got the bolt in to protect the crux and RV took the shot in Mtn. Mag. We were done at that point. I was worked.
On the ground were Jim Dutzi and son(?) with peyote. We hustled down and ............
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Dave, The Apron crack route looks kinda like Lonely Dancer 5.10c.
Nice Topo. One of the days, Wonderly took some pictures of us with mu camera from the ground. Have the slides somewhere.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Dee eee....drove by the shepards tub a few hours ago...You posting out there again..?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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NO, NO, I'm thinking it was "Son of Sam." 5.10a !!!!!!!!!!!!!!5/85
Oh, and also, I'm thinkin' "put up ropes" means you put up a rope, not just standin' around twiddling your thumbs while some other dude put the rope up.
Just sayin'.
Johnny, I left there yesterday around 1pm.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Here's some Joe Boy hieroglyphics,
Depicting FAs of routes done in the Indian Cove backcountry, between 1978 and 1980:
Artwork, Jeff Sewell
Alternate renditions:
Artwork, Roy McClenahan
1978
February, FA Euhedral, 5.7, Roy McClenahan, Larry Stone
March, FA Babylonia, 5.7 , Roy McClenahan, Larry Stone
1979
January, FA Taken for Granite, 5.7+, Jeff Sewell, Larry Stone, Dave Bruckman
February, FA Cactus Cooler, 5.10a/b, Roy McClenahan, Larry Stone, Jeff Sewell
February, FA 200 motels, 5.7+, Roy McClenahan, Jeff Sewell
March, FA Let's Bolt, 5.7, Roy McClenahan, Jeff Sewell, Dave Bruckman, John Frericks (Listed as FA April 78, in Jeff's artwork above)(establish first pitch of Cracked Actor)
April, FA Carmania, 5.7, Jeff Sewell, Roy McClenahan, Larry Stone
April, FA Spanish Bayonet, 5.8+, Lynn Hill, Roy McClenahan, Larry Stone, Jeff Sewell
1980
January, FA Cracked Actor, 5.9, Roy McClenahan, Larry Stone, Nick Badyrka (Listed as FA January 1, 1980 in Jeff's artwork above)
February, FA attempt, Scream of the Butterfly, Roy McClenahan, Jeff Sewel
February, FA attempt, Chaos and Control (Chaos, a right arching finger crack, became a Hidetaka Suzuki project)
February, FA Tied to the Whipping Post, 5.11a, Roy McClenahan, Nick Badyrka, Jim Angione (Listed as FA January 2, 1980 in Jeff's artwork above)
February, FA Hightops, 5.10a, Roy McClenahan, Jeff Sewell (Listed in Bartlett guide as February 1979. May have been late 1979)
February, FA Mr. Pibbs, 5.9, Roy McClenahan, Ron Hassler
February, FA Madam Wong's, 5.10 Roy McClenahan, Ron Hassler
*Alexander's Empire a.k.a. Ancient Kingdom a.k.a. NASA Wall
*Chocolate Sundays became Afro Awareness Week
All routes as listed in Bartlett's 1991 guide, Rock climbs of Indian Cove
*Mr. Pibbs & Madam Wrong's: both are bolted slabs. They are further up the canyon from Rattlesnake Buttress, beyond Hightops, and on the right. A few 1/4 inch bolts per climb. The routes went unreported.
*Hey Jeff, the 200 Motels mystery is solved!
We did in fact climb that route. It is not a mis-attribution in the guidebook, as you see it was included in my drawing.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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That is so cool this thread is a treasure trove
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Ha ha.
Spanish Bayonet was Lynnie's lead, and has since been retro bolted.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/spanish-bayonet/105723943
In the second topo, see Jeff Sewell's skull and cross bones markup!
We all saw her run it out past ground fall territory and then place a shaky hex.
"Hey Lynn, what's with the funky nut placement?"
"Protection is just psychological, boys."
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Spanish Bayonet was Lynnie's lead, and has since been retro bolted.
Wonder who did the deed? Mistaken second FA?
We climbed it in Feb. '93 and the bolt was there, so sometime prior to that.
I have no idea how we ended up back in that canyon that day, but kind of recall it being a nice route.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Probably Bill Todd and John Nye.
They did these some of things in 1987, before we reported any of it.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Randy Vogel!
This portrait of M&M is tops!
It's pure cultural anthropology.
No question, this was a tribal thing:
Photo, Randy Vogel
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Yep, a TRIBAL THANG.
And we start them off real young … Hanna preps the rads, 2006:
Hanna's parents, Bob and Joselyn:
Faced with an earlier defeat at the boulders, Hanna turns to her trainer for moral support:
Photo, Bob Van Belle collection
...................................................................
Check it, people, just look at Hanna NOW!
16 years old and clearly an exemplary human being:
photo, care of Bob Van Belle
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Can't believe it has been that long since the boulder session. Hannah looks wonderful Bob. Bet you are a proud papa.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Rachel cruising at the Cohn Ranch last year.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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This thread needs more women!
There, I feel better already ... Lisa, Joselyn, Jessica, 2006 reunion:
*Hey, Vik, I bet you remember Jessica, Bullwinkle's girlfriend BITD?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Rachel and Hanna, 2006:
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Voice of the Crags
or just "voice" for short
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WBraun
climber
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Yeah ^^^ I remember him lol.
This thread just keeps on buggering ......
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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It is perhaps more than coincidental that BVD has a red-headed Hannah of nearly identical vintage of my Hannah (he and Joselyn aren't red-heads - just saying...)
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Slightly OT, but seems to fit here anyway.
This photo (like all taken that day) are of Yabo's first trip up Leave It To Beaver. He was reasonably in control and I took a lot of shots.
Upon returning to Terra Firma, perhaps Yabo felt that it had been too easy, or he hadn't suffered or excised himself enough. So he went for a second round.
I don't believe any of us could bring ourselves to take pictures of that shake-fest. We could scarcely watch as he barely made his way upward. He was gassed and you could see it. A couple desperate dynos near the top made you want to turn away... but we were transfixed and repulsed at the same time.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Another route me and Booges did was "Power Fingers" (now known as Repo Man) after the bolts were chopped, 2nd or 3rd ascent?
so now you have to do 5.12 moves way out where a nice big fat bolt should be, but was chopped for very stupid reasons
I found it very hard, and was glad Booges led it.
Someone should go back and replace the bolts to make it a good route,
as it stands now, it's just a waste of good rock.
I eyeballed it years before the FA, but didn't see enough holds, so didn't bother going up on it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jesus StahlBro, you're right -- was that bouldering sesh really 10 years ago?! God, we age.
I will say that for all kinds of different reasons, that day is in my "Top 10 Best Sessions Ever" list. The nostagia factor, us having kids (KIDS?!) in tow, the excellent companions, the perfect temps. That day also produced a couple of my all time favorite Josh photos:
Spencer, getting everbody psyched as only he can do!
Best posse ever:
This one, in particular, sums up what a great day with friends in Josh really adds up to and comes down to:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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BVB and Epperson, 2006:
This thread needs more Guy Keesee! From the 2006 reunion:
This thread needs more Dave Wonderly ... 2006 reunion:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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I agree, BVB, that day bouldering in 2006 was tribal perfection ...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Randy,
If you missed one of my (many) stories and/or posts up thread, that Yabo/Beaver photo and your commentary are totally on topic!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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More tribes people and their offspring from 2006:
Jess & son, Rain:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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2006, all hands on deck!
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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This thread needs more Dave Wonderly
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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BITD, Dave Tapes was almost never seen in regular climbing shoes.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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This was an Epperson prank in Mex between 80 and 83.
It's all wrong...... the brand is wrong and..... well.....
Jesus effing C.
OK, I recognize the van.....it's mine.
What evs.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Here is "The Rake" following "Zig Zag" in 84 or so.
Note the focus.
He is hungry.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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BTW. Rob Raker was known as the "RAKE" because of his prodigious ability to consume FOOD.
We would be at Jan's Red Kettle in the am in Idyllwild and the meal would be winding down...and I mean ...after our refills on coffee had hit the waitress's limit....like 6 times around.
Rob would be lookin' at my plate...and would ask ..."DE are you done with that?" I would look down...and there was only the garnish on the side of the plate left and say "yes Rob." He would scarf it up, just like that.
Then he would look at Mariah's plate. He would ask..."Mariah, are you done with that?" She might have a 1/2 a helping of hash browns left. "Yes Rob, I'm done.".....and just like that...gone.
Then Mari, "Mari, are you done with that?....maybe 3 bites of egg, one bite of bacon, three bites of hash browns." "Yes Rob, I'm done." GONE.
....and on around the table until all plates were clean.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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So, Dave, what was the EPPERSON prank?
I DO see some malt liquor cans there. What climber would drink LITE beer?
Now that I have some modern guidebooks to peruse, I can catch up and see if some of the oddball FAs I've been involved with have been published.
Do you remember RED BULL? It was named after the malt liquor we were drinking that day.
Red Bull, 5.11b, Banana Cracks Formation - Northeast Face, FA, Roy McClenahan, Dave Evans, Jim Angione. No date given in the Bartlett guide.
"There is a bolt with a chain-link hangar at the start." Ha ha. What a cheap bastard I was during that period. (We used a Bosch hammer drill).
...................................................................
And Zigzag!
Got off route, trying to do something else, (maybe Mechanics?) and onto Zigzag once with Larry Loads. Didn't like the feel of things.
Started down climbing. Got just short of the ramp and asked for tension at a fixed pin…
Tension never came and I went bouncing down the ramp and into a bush, just short of a hefty drop.
Whoops, my tie-in knot wasn't finished!
Larry remembers, when I went whizzing by him, thinking he had failed to belay properly, I said: "Thanks Larry ..."
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Man, one of the best days ever. What a posse. Soloing the Nutcracker was a hoot too.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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As long we're showing some kiddos.
Seth Leichtfuss, age 5, Walk on the Wild Side for the TV Show "That's Incredible." Thanks again, Randy and Maria.
Edit: I do believe the child has a swami belt. :)
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Mmmmmm
Smoking hot babe marries...me!
(not sure what she was thinking but I ain't complaining)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Yes Roy, the Schlitz cans were mine but the Lite, Hell NO. That was pre-Cobra and definitly Pre-211. Maybe even pre-Red Bull era?
Yep Tom, lucky dude.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Got it. The joke WAS the Lite beer itself.
Think you can come up with an FA date for Red Bull? In your excellent notes?
I'm going to guess 1989.
...................................................
LL: five years old, sweet!
...................................................
Tom's bride! Totally smoking hot! And then the look on Tom's face, totally priceless!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Eppies joke was stringing them all around the inside of my van on fishing line while we were out cragging. I think it was at The Trono.
Wow, those years were prodigious in FA's... insane.
Finally found it.
Easter week (7th day of the week) 4/89 "The Red Bull" 5.11 b/c Roy, Jim Angione.
I remember it was pretty much your gig (although not sure who scoped it, by CF rules that meant it was all mine if I did.), you led it. We were poor and using the "double chain link" as hangers
We did the FA of Oui Oui 5.10+ (aka, We Wee) the same day.
12 FA's that week, 22 routes. 9 days straight, I won't try and count the bolts placed.
I think I remember you saying you were getting tired of the pressure of doing FA's all the time and just wanted to climb.
I didn't understand what you meant by "pressure."
Oh, that was right after the Louie incident. The first FA of the week was called, "Never Cry Louie." with Margy 5.7/8.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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So fun having these "new" (1992, ha ha) guidebooks from Bartlett.
Ah, yes. The Oui Oui. 5.10c/d, Roy McClenahan, Jim Angione, Dave Evans
Pressure! I was totally kidding. The pressure being having to actually leave the campground and go look for routes.
So to underscore the gag of escaping the pressure of looking for routes ...
We were standing at the edge of B loop. I shut my eyes, held one arm straight out in front of me with my finger pointed forward, and had you guys spin me around in a circle until I stopped.
Kind of like pin the tail on the donkey, or piñata bashing ...
I declared what ever rock I was pointing toward, then we would go climb it. And a new route exactly where I was pointing. So, when I stopped, and opened my eyes, I was pointing towards Peewee rock, straight at what would become the Oui Oui.
The strategy worked like a charm!
I had forgotten that we didn't just call it Wee Wee. Thanks Dave!
We were on a roll. We had the touch. (even if climbing offbeat junk) ...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Dave,
What about Cowboy Junkie? When? (likely 1989)
Queen Mountain, near Walt's White Rain.
I see you make mention of it on Mountain Project on the White Rain page.
They have Cowboy Junkie, 11c, Roy McClenahan, Dave Evans, but no date.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/cowboy-junkie/105724510
In the five books I have from Bartlett, none of them appear to cover Queen Mountain.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 10, 2016 - 07:42am PT
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Doing new routes! Nothing else compares!!! (... Okay that's a bit overboard)
BITD, few things felt more meaningless than putting them in from the top down.
But meaningless things can be fun!
... I have to say, CHOPPING routes (six or seven years earlier) was probably as much of a giggle as RAP placing them!
Hitler’s Brain:
Rudy McNugget, leading (with wicked tension a.k.a. "take"), Roy, fulfilling route construction tasks.
1989/90
Photo, Russ Walling
Tonic Boom:
Russ (leading?) & Roy ... living the life!
1989/90
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 07:42am PT
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There is a bunch up there that may not have gotten reported.
Dave,
How about Skinhead Nose Jerky? I think that was 5.10+ or something.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 10, 2016 - 08:30am PT
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Nice, I had forgotten the spinning Roy blindfolded first ascent selection method! Or SRBFASM.
I'm at Chevron El Segundo and will check the records later.
Rob, yes, there were a number of raving skinhead related route names following the raving skinhead incident.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 10, 2016 - 09:35am PT
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Other regulars during the heady Sheep Bugger years (1977-1982ish) were:
Charles Cole the Third
Gibb Lewis
Rick Accomazzo
Largo
Bullwinkle
Kelly Carrigan
Herb Leggar
Mike Waugh
Yabo
will try and add to list
Here is a phrase that will be remembered forever by a small membership of locals
"a Sewell hit
It's when you have just the tiniest bit of herb left, so you have to divide it up so everyone gets a Sewell hit, and if you're lucky, you get 2 Sewell hits!
it's about the size of a quarter of a normal hit.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 10, 2016 - 10:04am PT
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"Sewell hits"
"raging Visigoth"
LOL!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 10, 2016 - 10:27am PT
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There are times when sewell hits are a mandatory excercise
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 11:29am PT
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Roy,
Thanks again for all the great photos, especially Jess and Rain...he must be a teenager by now.
Where is Jess living? Lots of memories there for sure. Love the "tribes people" shot of TG and JB.
Doug,
Nice shot of Dave Tapes.
Jeff,
LOL, I think we all had a pipe like that at one time or another!
Are you sure you have pics of me? I usually avoided camera's BITD and still do : )
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 10, 2016 - 11:40am PT
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Jessica, is well and living in Colorado....
LA Women... after Dean, she married Curtis and lived in Mammoth and had two kids, Max and Rita... they are young adults. Then she married D and had two kids, Rain and ?? .... They operate a school for underprivileged wayward youths with a heavy emphasis on "real world outdoor skills".. sort of like outward bound.
at the 2006 reunion Rain was about 8 so yea he is about 18 now.
And Largo could run through about 2.3 oz /weekend.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 11:53am PT
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Guy,
Thanks for the update on Jess...a woman after my own heart, wayward kids, teens and the outdoors, real life skills. I knew she had been in Mammoth for quite some time, but not about the second set of kiddos. Go Jess!
Ho Man! I believe it...I'm sure there are many in our generation still self-medicating, is that a WWII parent thingy or just plain dysfunction?? idk
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 01:08pm PT
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Jeff,
Wrong V. I never climbed 5.10...must be the other Vicki. Can't wait to see your photos though.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 10, 2016 - 03:11pm PT
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Loving this thread!
Looks like we are having our 2016 reunion, right here, right now!
Bearamiah, toking up, 2006 reunion ...
(Joselyn, Hanna, Spencer, Bob Bolton, Tarbuster with tequila, Kim Carpenter)
BVB photo? What a great shot. I'd love a high resolution version.
Spencer, Mike Graham, Guy Keesee, The Boxer, Dave Schultz, 2008 reunion:
Bullwinkle, 2009 reunion:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 10, 2016 - 03:37pm PT
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Roy Boy, White Rastafarian, 1984:
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 04:12pm PT
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Jeff,
I thought it was 5.10...but perhaps it was 5.8 BITD. Who was I climbing with?
The Fish? Maybe this is where I got the black eye ; )
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 04:35pm PT
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Roy,
LOVE the series shots of you on White Rastafarian. It is like having a reunion! Keep it up brah!
I'd like to have a real one (reunion) in January out at JT...is that a possibility?
We can make it a V retirement party! Curious about Jeff's photos. I don't remember doing much climbing,
I was such a social butterfly.
Hope Craig doesn't obsess : ) Too Late V, "I like big butts, I cannot lie."
Sir Mix-a-lot?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 10, 2016 - 05:25pm PT
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The thing this photo captures, Roy, is the precise moment when Hanna, collapsed with despair, realizes "Oh sh#t, they're drinking whisky, doing pipeloads, they all talk non-stop sh#t and these are my parent's friends?!
Please god, don't let it run in the family....
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 10, 2016 - 05:32pm PT
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Too late V
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 10, 2016 - 05:35pm PT
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What do the kids of climbers from our age group become?
Drug addicts? drug free?
Jaded beyond belief like their parents?
or having an amazing curiosity for life and learning?
Please discuss
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 10, 2016 - 05:53pm PT
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Naaaa, we got lucky, Hanna turned out awesome:
Inspired, no doubt, by her parents' artistic aspirations!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 10, 2016 - 05:59pm PT
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Meanwhile, Eppi sets up for the move on the hardest V4 in the Monument, spotted by Stahlbro, Spencer, and Bearamiah -- 75 year's worth of combined spotting experience:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 10, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
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Bona fide Stonemaster sighting!
Rick Accomazzo, Flagstaff, 2008:
Just had lunch with Ricky today.
A committee of 12 Nobel laureates and the Dalai Lama couldn't design a better human being!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 10, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
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Bona fide Stonemaster swag:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 10, 2016 - 06:14pm PT
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OMG, this thread TOTALLY needs more Mike Paul:
Photo, Greg Epperson
Photos, Mike Paul collection
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 10, 2016 - 06:19pm PT
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Mike Paul is the only person that I know that could cruise both the Bachar Cracker and Pumping Monzonite
Never saw any one else top out on these problems
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 06:44pm PT
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LOL!! Craig, I can only dream of having a butt like that! I've never had one :(
WWII peeps, I TOTALLY have an AMAZING curiosity for life and learning.
I was a professional student and ended up getting 3 degrees and 3 credentials,
all in education. Go figure.
Not jaded, we all questioned authority, then did what we wanted.
We could have all been sheep...
Roy, keep up the great photos. Rick is still looking hot on the crags.
Lunch? CA, CO, or AZ? Thanks for the update.
Mike Paul, awesome dude!
Jeff, thanks for the compliment. I was all of 19 or 20 yrs. old : )
Now we all think we're middle aged...isn't 55 the new 40?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 10, 2016 - 06:55pm PT
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Vik,
I live in Nederland, 3000 vertical feet and 18 miles west of Boulder, Colorado.
Moved to the region in 1990. Actually, drove out here with David Evans' gal, Margie, just for a visit and never left.
Lived in Marshall, just outside of Eldorado Springs, for 10 years.
Lisa and I have been in Nederland since 2001.
When Ricky goes snowboarding in Rocky Mountain National Park, he sometimes drops in and we have lunch.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 10, 2016 - 07:01pm PT
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How's the Cross Country Center doing up there
Is Global warming causing problems?
I did many a km skating there
It was the first years of skating, and they had signs saying no Skating on this or that trail
I would say, "I will skate anywhere I want to skate" and skate it anyway, laying minor waste to their machine laid parallel tracks....
just more evidence of being completely Jaded
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 10, 2016 - 07:20pm PT
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The Eldora cross-country nordic center rocks!
I can't use it anymore, too many musculoskeletal issues.
But Lisa skates those steep trails like a champ.
We've been getting pretty darn good winters here. Though spring tends to come earlier than it did in the early 90s.
..................................................................
Climbing in the Flatirons with Rick, 2008:
Pinot Noir with Ricky at Chez Accomazzo:
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WBraun
climber
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May 10, 2016 - 07:33pm PT
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You know .... they make ladders for getting up stuff and the intelligent class uses them.
You can buy them or get them just about anywhere.
But instead climbers do it the hard way for life while the rest of the world shakes their heads .......
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 10, 2016 - 07:38pm PT
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Yep!
Artwork by OUCH!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 10, 2016 - 10:01pm PT
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Dude,
Cowboy Junkies in 3/89 5.11c You led the crux.
I was thinking it was the same weekend we went up and did the White Rain. So wrong. I will have to go way back. WE hiked up with Walt Shipley and Billy Russell.
It was the same weekend I led Private Idaho 5.11b and The Gila Monster FA5.8+ and The Tripper Jack classic of all time....2nd ascent....The one with a thin crack and a face crux...out near Gilligan's Island.....but on the other side 5.11 b on both cruxes.
It was the weekend after the FA of my hardest lead ever. The FA of the Bloodline.
Gots to go to bed....lates.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 10, 2016 - 10:14pm PT
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There's always more room for Mike!
Once upon a time in Yosemite:
Two years and 700 laps later:
Years and then decades flew by, but somehow it stayed same as it ever was:
Wherever you were was home
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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May 10, 2016 - 10:20pm PT
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Wait - Driver is a BILLIONAIRE?
Someone has to ask the off-topic questions...
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 10, 2016 - 11:42pm PT
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MisterE,
No, Geologist.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 11, 2016 - 06:46am PT
|
QUESTION:
Just how balls out courageous would the rest of us have to be to walk in Kyle Van Bell's shoes?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Vik,
Since you are big into education ...
And Craig said:
or having an amazing curiosity for life and learning?
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 11, 2016 - 06:56am PT
|
So, Dave,
You are saying the FA of Cowboy Junkies is either March or May of 89?
(I'm thinking it's a typo)
*Thanks for the correction!
...............................................................
Mike Paul was SO bad-ass on those Mount Woodson cracks.
I was there with him and the Swiss contingent, early 80s, he was lit up on mushrooms and we watched him solo Hear My Train. To see this was to witness a virtuoso.
Can we say CONTACT HIGH???
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 11, 2016 - 07:07am PT
|
Eric Z, Swiss Michi, Mike Paul, John Mallery, bare foot Swiss stoner dude, winter 1984:
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 11, 2016 - 10:56am PT
|
I found this shot of Tom Smith on our FA at the Lover's Leap, 3 o'Clock Roadblock 5.9+ R. 9/1981
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 11, 2016 - 11:34am PT
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How cool is that!
Probably not many bolts needed, if any, right? (forgot what you said up thread)
And not in any guidebooks?
.....................................................................
Yes, Jeff, Loose Lips.
I have a whole sequence of that lead by the Z. Money shot already posted.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 11, 2016 - 07:39pm PT
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Best wishes to Vickie.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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May 11, 2016 - 08:31pm PT
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Thanks Dave!
Your response is to my email...write her, she'll dig it! (I forgot to include her email address...added it here)
(We are watching the sun set...we've had like the best spring EVER!)
Here's the email:
Hey…I’m overdue to write about something important. Sorry for the delay, but it took a while for me and Vicki to wrap our heads around it.
Vicki was diagnosed with Waldenstrom macroglobulinemia early this year. If you want more details just google it. Bottom line, it’s a rare form of indolent blood cancer. “Indolent” is the good part…that means “lazy” or slowly progressing. Although it is currently not curable it is also treatable…and likely won’t shorten her life at all. Still…ain’t exactly good either. There are 1500 cases diagnosed each year in the US…which is bad since there isn’t a ton of research.
This was found on a routine blood test. She has since had a bone marrow biopsy done to confirm the diagnosis. About half of her bone marrow cells are cancerous. Those cells no longer produce red blood cells so she is anemic (weirdly enough she has been anemic ever since I’ve known her). The cancer cells also produce a protein that is not meant to be in your blood (that’s how they found it). If you get too much of that it starts to cause other symptoms, which she does not have at this time. From what I’ve read this varies a ton from patient to patient…some get symptoms at low levels, others don’t at high levels. They can strain it out if it gets to be a problem.
Most patients they watch and wait…her anemia and blood levels of the protein are increasing so her doctors recommend treatment. She has seen Dr. Libby at Seattle Cancer Care Alliance, and Dr. Tucker here in Wenatchee. They have both worked together treating patients in the past…and both seem excellent. There are MANY different treatment options…the best one seems to be a combination of two different chemotherapies. Even that isn’t as bad as it sounds…it’s not the kind of chemo that makes you sick or makes your hair fall out. One drug is a monoclonal antibody specific for the cancer cells that they have had for about 15 years…thank god we live in the space age, since without this her prognosis would be poor.
She had a port installed in her chest a few days ago…they inject the chemo into that (it messes up small views….the port goes into a large one). So Monday she begins the chemo…two days in a row a month apart for 6 months. First day is 7 hours…they infuse really slow to make sure there is no adverse reaction. Then she is supposed to be in remission for years…can have the port removed if she wants.
Even though this sucks…and we have both lost plenty of sleep over it…she’s doing quite awesome, and this has brought us even closer together.
I’ve been wordy enough…I love Vicki so much! Wish her well…her email address is vicdisco@aol.com.
Tom
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 11, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
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Hey!!
Best vibes out to Vicki! And to Chester too, though I imagine he would be about 40 by now...
Tom Michael... for sure honorary Buggerer!!
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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May 11, 2016 - 09:14pm PT
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Thanks Russ!
Chia...Chester's replacement
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 11, 2016 - 09:14pm PT
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1500 cases per year ... Keep that nasty stuff under wraps and stay strong Vicki!
Chia is dwarfing that tennis ball?!
The little pup must be monster big!
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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May 11, 2016 - 09:39pm PT
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Uhhhhh...not really, it's a tiny dog's toy. Here is a better perspective next to Petra, our daughter:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 12, 2016 - 06:40am PT
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haha. Ball made for mini-rackets. I figured ...
Petra looks ready to lead the rads!
Exactly how we used to turn out for the crags BITD.
Petra is a cutie!
... and I like your sense of interior design.
(please pass that along to the boss, if she's the curator of such things)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 12, 2016 - 10:39am PT
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Pope was a San Fernando Valley guy, right?
Mike Pope, standing in front of his namesake climb, Pope's Crack!
I want one of those Guinness T-shirts!
Pope now married to Sue Tonelli, living on the Eastside, with one or two kids IIRC.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 12, 2016 - 03:57pm PT
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A few years ago I was coming down off a peak in the Sierra and spied a fellow coming towards me. Lo and behold it was Mike Pope on a "day hike."
We visited for a few minutes and he was off.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 12, 2016 - 07:28pm PT
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Remember that Boulder problem in Humber Park, Weasels Ripped My Flesh? It traverses to the left. I was all proud that I had it dialed. Heel hook and everything.
Pope walked up and powered across, no heel hook, just brute force. This was probably 78 and my first meeting with the man. What struck me was his understated and soft-spoken demeanor.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 12, 2016 - 07:43pm PT
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His excellency , Pope Michael the XXlll...A truly holy man with the demeanor and patience of Jobe...
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 12, 2016 - 07:47pm PT
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Heel hook?????
you don't need no stinking heel hook
but I was built more like Mike, but taller
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 12, 2016 - 07:57pm PT
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Fry...Does size really matter...?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 12, 2016 - 08:11pm PT
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Speaking of Jane Sievert!
Definitely had some good laughs and good times over the years ...
We both paid our dues up at Tamarack.
photo by BVB
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 12, 2016 - 08:28pm PT
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I was standing in Humber Park one morning and a van passes by loaded with an outdoor ed class....This lady was pounding on the van window and yelling trying to get my attention...I thought she was a special ed person so i pretended i didn't see her...Turns out it was Jane...Wish i hadn't looked away...Oops..Sorry Jane...That was a great crew of people at the Rack and a good winter to be up there...Rumor has it Harding washed dishes there at one time...?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 12, 2016 - 09:04pm PT
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One of the epic Tamarack dig outs.
All the guests were lined up in their cars, idling, because a massive deposition had been forecast, so they were trying to escape and Guerrilla Gulch cut loose before they could get out.
This avalanche completely blocked any exit strategy, other than hiking out to Old Mammoth.
Dan Asher chose the most congenial amongst us to go knock on car windows and ask people to exit their cars. Then the entire retinue of lodge and cabin guests were cabin bound so long that all of their cars became completely buried in the lineup.
We would have needed plastic shovels. Lots of bodywork got damaged in the dig out. Huge insurance bust on that one!
This was the winter that both Millis and John Ball were up there.
Also, Ramona's boyfriend, Randy. And of course, Matthew Kerwin.
This same winter, the water filter (which serviced the entire Lodge) got plugged up and Randy led Rick Thomas, myself and a bunch of other young men out into the night with our shovels. It was a good distance away from the lodge and cabins. We dug a pit 25 feet deep and 30 feet across. The location of the filter wasn't even marked. He triangulated it between familiar trees. When we got to ground, we were dead on mark!
......................................................................
Ramona Snody on the left, Roy boy on the right, winter 1983.
Every available Tamarack employee was called into duty for this dig out of all of the parked cars, which were lined up right in the roadway in front of Tamarack.
Cochran taught me to use silicone spray on my shovel:
Photo, John Ditttli
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 12, 2016 - 09:27pm PT
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Geeze Roy.. I was in on that filter dig to China...how come i don't remember you...? I had just come back from Royal Gorge after doing a 50K race...I was pretty spent from the race and ended up shoveling into the wee hours of the morning as i recall...I was sitting in the lodge hallucinating from exhaustion...Great dittli photo...donner shoveling party...that was a huge winter lots of snow and lots of snow in Don's nose...I think i remember Randy...? Reddish hair...?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 12, 2016 - 09:29pm PT
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That's right. Red hair. He was a big Peter Gabriel fan.
I had forgotten you were on that dig. You and I really didn't know each other, until we went down to Joshua Tree (?) together. Probably not long after the dig out in fact. When we got back to the lodge after the dig, we were all heroes!
The 50 K Royal Gorge race rings a bell. I think I remember just how blasted you were after that epic. And yes, reporting hallucinations!
IIRC, you were a conscript for that detail.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 12, 2016 - 09:43pm PT
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Finding that filter box was like finding a needle in the haystack...Amazing...I wonder if that car you were digging out was Rick Thomases girlfriend Perry...? I think that's her subaru...? God i suddenly feel old...Do you remember the cabins that were converted into Eagle and hawk cages...? Millis and Ball were the elder statesman...what a pair...Ball died in a ultralite crash....Wish i had known you better....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 12, 2016 - 09:53pm PT
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Yes, John ball and Debbie Jo had a big ass hawk enclosure right inside their cabin!
I knew about John balls death. Death by flying! How apropos for him. But way too young. He told me I would become an interesting old man. Working on it!
Rick's girlfriend, maybe from the following year, I don't recall her name, but she was a real looker and a good person.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 12, 2016 - 10:10pm PT
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Perry was Rick's GF....They got married moved back east i believe...Bumped into Debby Jo on the green church road last summer...she was with a bird watching group by the ponds and i was pedaling the bike and had stopped to see if the group had seen any rare birds...Debby Jo ID'd me immeadiately and we conversed...Cool lady..
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 12, 2016 - 10:13pm PT
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Debby Jo ID'd me immeadiately
That is so tempting!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 12, 2016 - 10:17pm PT
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Don't hold back Reilly...!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 12, 2016 - 10:23pm PT
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Hey! Get a room snow bunnies.... this is a buggery channel!!
Break with some buggery or bugger off.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 12, 2016 - 10:40pm PT
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This baby's gonna' break 1000 easy.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 12, 2016 - 11:04pm PT
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Damn Roy, I love threads like this because they fill in all sorts of blanks for me. I'm not even sure where the f*#k Tamarack Flats is. In the late 70's and all through the 80's I was dipping in and out of so many scenes at so fast a pace it was impossible to keep track of what was happening where. The fact that even when I was around I stayed on the margins didn't help much, either. What really strikes me is how The Evergreen State College crowd spread out into every nick and cranny of the climbing world. By the time I took that photo of Jane I'd already known her for seven or eight years.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 13, 2016 - 12:20am PT
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Roy,
I'm lagging...10 more school days. Totally agree with the 8 TLC's...not into traditional education.
Can adversely effect health and creativity. There are plenty of awesome kids out there with the same philosophy.
Most of them have great parents ; )
Craig,
Read the question wrong...I'm not much of a climber, but my twin sons, like most of us, went through a major partying phase in high school and early college. At almost 23 yo, they are completely drug free/sober and I had nothing to do with it. They're like "been there, done that". They both have a zeal and curiosity for life. Both are surfers living in HI. One is doing the firefighter, EMT, paramedic thing on Kauai, the other is an environmentalist currently being hired by DLNR on the Big Island. I'm a proud momma : )
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 13, 2016 - 01:14am PT
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This baby's gonna' break 1000 easy.
And I still don't quite know anything about the Sheep Buggerers! wtf. And am I the only living SoCal climber who never spent a single night at Todd's house? In fact I only remember going there once for a couple of hours, in 1985 I think. You guys need to dumb this thread down for me. If that's possible.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 13, 2016 - 06:31am PT
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Ha ha. Good one Russ. Take a seat! … (classic Russ-ism)
I know you were kidding.
......................................................................
Good call though, now that we can sight the crest of 1000 posts, a SYNOPSIS is in order!
This thread is about a lot more than just the Sheep Buggerers, who are: Russ Walling a.k.a. The Fish, Doug Munoz a.k.a. Mooney, Greg Byrne a.k.a. The Driver, Kent Sparks a.k.a. the Manx.
It's about their influences, which is why I've written about the Stonemasters here. It's also about the prevailing culture and everyone else who was around Josh in the mid-to-late 70s and throughout the 80s, which is why BVB is here.
I've written about my pilgrimage to Mammoth Lakes in spring of 1980 (in order to position myself close to Yosemite), Walter Rosenthal, and the Drywall Dogs, which is (tangentially) why there is a picture of Mammoth Jane, and is partly why RJ is here.
Rosenthal was in a slideshow given by Clevenger, which Munoz and I attended, which heavily influenced us at the time, 1976 or 77, and I've told that story here.
Hell, I'm not a Buggerer and I'm here! But I grew up with the Moon Fuzz, a prime Buggerer, and we started climbing together in 1974, so I've written some about our adventures together as kids. There is a story here about my father, who influenced a bunch of us with his hilarity!
It's also about the Joe Boys, analogs to the Buggerers, who predated the Buggs by a couple of years. The Joe Boys are: Jeff Sewell, Larry Stone, John Freriks, Dave Bruckman, Tony Montiel, and me, initially ... then, Tom Smith.
It's about Erik Eriksson, who was a mentor to just about everybody in both groups! And his girlfriend of the time, Vikki Vernola!
There has been mention of Keith Cunning and the Uplanders, contemporaries of the Joe Boys.
We've covered, in brief, the San Fernando Valley crew: Bullwinkle, Jessica Perrin, Guy Keesee, Nick Badyrka, Shawn Curtis, Mike Waugh, Jan McCollum, Dan Hershman, Mike Pope, Scott Loomis a.k.a. The Old Man, Bob Kamps ...
We didn't forget the BRB a.k.a. the Big Rock Boys: Kevin Powell and brother, Tim(?) Powell, Darrell Hensel, Dan Ahlborn.
Also, those swank dudes who routinely splintered off from the San Diego based Scumbags: Bob Van Belle, Mike Paul. And Epperson and Alan Nelson, because they were there.
Plus, Alan Roberts a.k.a. The Voice of the Crags, Maria Cranor, and Lynn Hill, kingdoms unto themselves!
We have input here from Team B, who are Craig Fry, Dave Evans, Randy Vogel, and Spencer Lennard … (Spencer, who we have yet to hear from).
Last but not least, there is the dynamic duo of Mike Lechlinski & Mari Gingery, immediate disciples of the Stonemasters (we were ALL disciples of the Stonemasters), who are featured here because Mike a.k.a. Mo, NAMED the Buggerers!
[Edit: whoops, apparently, as the reader will note in subsequent posts, Largo named them. Mea culpa. But Mo sure helped to popularize the term, as that's who I first heard it from. And Mo did once refer to Russ as "The Caustic Fish" and on several occasions, "The Butthead"...]
Tamarack Flats is in Yosemite Valley. Tamarack Lodge and Resort is adjacent to Mammoth Mountain, comprising a lodge, a bunch of dilapidated summer cabins pressed into winter service, and a Nordic skiing center. I spent the winters of 1983 and 1984 working there, saving money to go climbing.
And besides, we all loved the Eastern Sierra a.k.a. the Eastside, and couldn't get enough!
http://eastsidesports.com/eastside/
....................................................................
There are your cliff notes to the Sheep Buggerers of Josh, BVB.
....................................................................
Tarbuster and the Moon Fuzz, racked and ready for their first Grade VI, 1969:
(1969, this is the same year of the story which I told way up-thread, FOUR ON THE MOUNTAIN, about our hike up Mount Wilson at nine years old)
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 13, 2016 - 09:36am PT
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ekat...i did numerous trips to the filter when Norm owned the place...I wonder if the gallon of Tamalax forced him into diaper mode...?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 13, 2016 - 09:57am PT
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And then there was Connie Tobia, Jane Sievert's partner in crime.
photo, Doug White
Connie was from New Jersey and became a contingent of the Olympia crew. Connie and I dated and climbed for a period in 1982. She was a natural climber and could hang with the culture. Sometimes Russ and I would bug Shawn Curtis and Connie would join in, calling him The Weenis.
Shawn hated that! "I'm not the Weenis! I'm not the Weenis!"
photo, Doug White
Connie, Tarbuster, The Fish, Mike Paul, Dimitri Barton, Glacier Point, 1982:
Photo, Shawn Curtis
Sadly, both Shawn and Connie are now gone.
RIP Connie Tobia
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1454593/RIP-Connie-Tobia
RIP Shawn Curtis
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/75081/RIP-Shawn-Curtis
Images of Shawn Curtis
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1376031&msg=1377128#msg1377128
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 13, 2016 - 10:16am PT
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 13, 2016 - 10:33am PT
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I tried to entice Spencer to post up
But the hook wasn't baited properly
I will try again
I sure wish DE would tell us the "Walk on the Wild Side" story
If I told it, I would definitely get some more shit
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 13, 2016 - 11:17am PT
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Roy,
Thanks for the buggerers synopsis. I've got to dig out that old
Climbing magazine with the SD Bouldering article in it...love the pics
of E : ) I think he came in 2nd place that day. I have photos somewhere.
I'm going to put a statement out there...I believe that JL named the buggerers,
not Mo (Lechlinski) BITD. The Fish gave me the name The Creature,
Creeeeech, (Ho Man! Who are those guys, it sounds like they're
buggering a bunch of sheep!) Fish called E Springs...most likely because
of the hair. Anyone?
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 13, 2016 - 11:20am PT
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Russ
I checked your choice of a reunion site
looks good
I'll see you there
I might have back up plan in case of rain
My Largo nickname was the "tall sleek Newfie"
Ho man!
I never had a fish nickname
none of us Team B got fish nicknames
They just used our last names
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 13, 2016 - 11:38am PT
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Classic
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 13, 2016 - 11:39am PT
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Roy is getting on in years and his mind is just not what it used to be.... Fact and fantasy are slowing turing into one vivid mess.
Largo did (as stated by the lawoman) bellow those very words. I think it was at the base of the Weeping Wall, immediately after he snatched a bag of bunk weed right out of Freriks hand, declared it lawn clippings, and then he heard the bleating.... With a head snap and stern glance he said, "Ho mahn!!!! It sounds like they are buggering a bunch of sheep over there!! Who are those guys??"
I'm forgetting the proximity, but the newly minted buggerers were on top of Hernia or doing the Spatula or Zorro Zuchini or something. Pretty sure what he heard was Evans and Fry and maybe the Fuzz and Driver bleating. Crazy kids...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 13, 2016 - 01:14pm PT
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Jeepers, glad we got that settled!
Thanks for the fact checking, Vik & Russ!
From the linked thread:
I think it all started out at the weeping wall one day when the "hotties" (like maybe Craig Fry and Vogel and Largo and Powell/Hensel, Mike and Mari) heard a strange noise off in the distance.... and Largo says "Ho man... it sounds like someone is buggering some sheep..." Next thing ya know... the name stuck. Originally we used to make the noise just to piss off Mooney. For some reason we thought he looked like that goat in a Rowell book that was climbing a 5.9 crack.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 13, 2016 - 01:16pm PT
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Always a good policy not to stray too far from pictures of E:
Needles, I think … or Mexico:
The Dulldrills, 1983:
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 13, 2016 - 01:18pm PT
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Who is "Vik"? Vic Damone? Always loved his crooning. Didn't know he was a buggerer.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 13, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
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Ya, I was there that day
I told Largo, "let's go pummel those little carpet baggers into a pulp, that'll stop them from annoying our pristine Rock experience, they really suck"
He says "no young grasshopper, some day those little boys will grow up to be big boys, they might be sick in the head and they might retaliate, so lets' just belittle them unmercifully"
"Ho man, we will call them Sheep Buggerers, and let it be known, they should be hauled off in stretchers, but we will let them live another day"
It's been along time, I may have not remembered it perfectly
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 13, 2016 - 01:55pm PT
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Frickin Fish,
There is nothing wrong with Roy's mind or brain!!
I think I'm Vik, LA Woman, V, The Creature, Creech, etc.
You named me dude...I think your mind is....well...?
Roy,
Keep those pics of E coming! Loving it....
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 13, 2016 - 04:55pm PT
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Frickin Fish,
There is nothing wrong with Roy's mind or brain!!
I think I'm Vik, LA Woman, V, The Creature, Creech, etc.
You named me dude...I think your mind is....well...?
Sorry Ma'am, but you are mistaken. I think you have me mixed up with someone else from what appears to be your very colorful past.
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WBraun
climber
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May 13, 2016 - 04:58pm PT
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I think I'm Vik, LA Woman, V, The Creature, Creech, etc.
She said; "I think"
She doesn't even know who she is ........?
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 13, 2016 - 05:17pm PT
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The Fish always gave me sh#t...ask DE. Now that I'm posting...
some things NEVER change.
Roy wrote "Thanks for the fact checking Vik & Russ"...I don't THINK,
I KNOW he was referring to me AND I know who I am WBraun.
eKat- mind and brain one in the same?...ask Largo.
Jeff, we need those photos!
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WBraun
climber
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May 13, 2016 - 05:32pm PT
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Well?
Who are you?
You must post photo of yourself .....
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 13, 2016 - 07:23pm PT
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Your traveling through another dimension, a dimension not only of sight and sound but of mind,
a journey into a wondrous land whose boundaries are that of imagination- Next stop, the Twilight Zone!
Is this the Sheep Buggerers of JT...BITD thread?
eKat- yes I would.
Are you someone I know? There are people on this thread that have more than one avatar.....
Thanks Jeff. I'm enjoying the stories and photos the most ; )
Have a great weekend everyone!
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 13, 2016 - 07:30pm PT
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BITD:
Shawn Curtis known for his mantle prowess
Mike Pope's partial claim to fame was on sighting Le Toit at Tahquitz
Here a couple of shots from the past
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 13, 2016 - 07:50pm PT
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Thanks Doug, you and Roy both have great stuff. I feel like Gretel though...
keep em coming.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 13, 2016 - 07:56pm PT
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Beautiful. One of my all time favorite Clapton tunes.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 13, 2016 - 07:59pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
If you like that
take a load of this..
it doesn't get any better than this for Afro jazz
[Click to View YouTube Video]
This was part of the Team B sound track
Plus; King Sunny Ade, Burning Spear, Steel Pulse, Third World
GOD damn it, I can't stop the I.T.T. to check out the King Sunny
Hang in there ,it,s almost over, just another 15 minutes
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 13, 2016 - 08:17pm PT
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We are all just waiting for Jeff's scan bombardment late this weekend or Monday. Mther efffer.
BRING IT ON!
I've got a couple of recent ones.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 13, 2016 - 08:30pm PT
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I never realized that the B Team was into Cultural Appropriation to such a degree.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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May 13, 2016 - 08:32pm PT
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Screen capture!!!! That's my grandma in the lower right...
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2016 - 09:39am PT
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It's all in the angle of the dangle, grandma...
This thread could always benefit from some more Tobin.
I've never seen this photo by Shawn Curtis of Tobin on The Void.
I'm really slammed with work issues this last couple weeks...
Couple stories I'd like to tell soon and post here when I have more time;
Tobin's stoned North Overhang solo at dusk...
It was the only time I ever saw him smoke pot, it was well before he was born again.
Also, recollections of climbing with a stalwart EE on the Salathe.
Have to head out to the equipment yard this morning and rewire the lighting on an old brush chipper. So long for now...
-bushman
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2016 - 10:29am PT
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Also, as a birds eye witness to Nick Badyrka's enormous Newtonian nose slapping launch off 'Wrinkle in Time,' and as a close recipient of the red wine/chocolate soft cone after-launch in the back of my Beetle afterwards, I only wish I could remember who I was climbing with on Cibola (I think) at the time, and who all else was there that day...although I'm positive it was during the summer of '81, because that was the year I had the rusty red VW Bug.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 14, 2016 - 10:38am PT
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The Head of Team B: Mr. David Evans.
__
And the real forerunner and founder of Team B: Matt Cox
Think this is out by the Comic Book.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2016 - 10:47am PT
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I used to smoke the butts BITD and was climbing with Matt Cox and some others in the Hall of Horrors, and there abouts one weekend. He had this annoying habit I quite enjoyed, every time I went to spark a match to light my smoke before a route, he'd swiftly lean over and blow it out, I mean quick as lightning every time. He probably added a good ten minutes to my lifespan that weekend.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 14, 2016 - 12:04pm PT
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Tim,
Thanks for the sharing...looking forward to more stories with pics. V
looking sketchy there- LOL, that's what my Italian father thought also,
couldn't understand a damn thing we were talking about! Constantly, telling us to stop using the word "Man!" and to say something he could understand.
When we talked, my friends thought we were yelling at each other and it tripped them out.."why are you and your dad yelling at each other?"..."we're not yelling, we're just having a conversation!" The LA slang was heavy BITD. I got most of my vocabulary from Frank Zappa and the Fish. The Fish got most of his lingo from shows like Dragnet, many of the shows on MeTV today, and black kids. LOL those were the daze!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 14, 2016 - 02:30pm PT
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One of my early encounters with the Sheepbuggers was at the Hall of Horrors in Josh. It seems that a group of them were making an assault on Grit Roof. Wishing to observe the goings on without being noticed, we approached from the back side of the boulder filled gap between the formations. You could tunnel under the boulders to a point where you emerged near the base of Dog Day Afternoon.
We huddled at that spot and listened to the proceedings. We couldn't really understand what they were saying. It was like some local dialect or street language so foreign to us that we were dumbfounded. We felt as though we were witnessing some manner of "generation gap."
Later, as we got to know these characters, it was obvious they were demented in their own special way...just like us.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 14, 2016 - 04:18pm PT
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What? They had to project Grit Roof?! Oh, the humanity...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 14, 2016 - 05:38pm PT
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Randy Vogel ... he shoots, he scores!
Later, as we got to know these characters, it was obvious they were demented in their own special way...just like us.
... Lots of great stuff here in the last 20 posts.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 14, 2016 - 05:41pm PT
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Keith Cunning, BITD:
Photo, Keith cunning collection
Keith Cunning & his little Martians, 2008:
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 14, 2016 - 06:05pm PT
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Oops, wrong thread.
Death Valley Superbloom 3/16.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 14, 2016 - 06:10pm PT
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Team B
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Team B was a competitive analysis exercise commissioned by the Central Intelligence Agency (CIA) to analyze threats the Soviet Union posed to the security of the United States. In May 1976, President Gerald Ford invited a group of outside experts to evaluate classified intelligence on the Soviet Union. The purpose behind the invitation was to put a fresh pair of eyes on the same data-sets that analysts within the intelligence community were looking at. The intelligence community was in the process of putting together its own assessment on the Soviet threat as the Team B panel of outside experts produced its assessment. Team B, approved by then Director of Central Intelligence George H. W. Bush, was composed of "outside experts" who attempted to counter the positions of intelligence officials within the CIA.[1] Team B concluded that the National Intelligence Estimate (NIE) on the Soviet Union, generated yearly by the CIA, underestimated Soviet military power and misinterpreted Soviet strategic intentions. Its findings were leaked to the press shortly after Jimmy Carter's 1976 presidential election win in an attempt to appeal to anti-communists in both parties and not appear partisan.[2][3]
The Team B reports became the intellectual foundation for the idea of "the window of vulnerability" and of the massive arms buildup that began toward the end of the Carter administration and accelerated under President Ronald Reagan.[4]
And you thought we were just some select group of elite hottie locals from OC... NO way
It was CIA all the way,,, it's all documented in wikipedia
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 14, 2016 - 06:19pm PT
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This is one of my first ever aid leads at 13/14 yrs. old. It is on the diatomaceous earth cliff at the NW corner of Upper Newport Bay.
They call it "earth" for a reason, it ain't rock.
Note the blue suede shoes and home made sewn etriers.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 14, 2016 - 07:06pm PT
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That B&W almost look sepia, Dave.
Must Photoshop that with paisley psychedelia texture!
....................................................................
Clark Jacobs, Mayor of Idyllwild:
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 15, 2016 - 08:37am PT
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Russ posted this link from 10 years ago
so classic
I guess Hashbro deleted it after 53 posts, since it doesn't have a title
It's funny to see these old threads with all of Dr. F posts deleted
(nice job RJ)
But I remember the fun interaction me and Tar had with "straightandnarrow"
straightandnarrow
Sport climber
Salt Lake City
Apr 12, 2006 - 01:19am PT
And then there was the time that Dr. F and I tried to find some solitude together up in the Space Cave.
We only had three condoms, the morning was fast approaching and a group of teenagers were scrambing up to the Cave for there own party.
Once the teens arrived the temperature cool significantly.
Dr. F/EE,
Don't bicker over Tarbuster, he's mine! Mr. Buster and I go way back, especially in bed.
Dr. F, you and I spent quite a bit of time making babies; luckily none were made.
Time sure does fly don't it?
Jen
It was all BS, but that's the kind of fun that I like!!!
I PM ed her, to find out more, but she wouldn't reveal any real info, but did send a photo of her butt in shorts
didn't recognize it
she didn't post much more after those first couple months
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 15, 2016 - 08:40am PT
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I did a search on her,
from another thread
Firstly, due to our personal history, I'd have to have assurance that you would not "try anything" with me as I am no longer heterosexual and I've heard you are married. Secondly, due to my fairly huge sexual appetite, I'd have to have latitude to bring a selection of dildos (and other sexual apparatti) on the job so that I can stay centered between orgasms.
Let me know your thoughts,
Jen
Wow!!!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 15, 2016 - 08:56am PT
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So there was more than just sheep involved...?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 09:44am PT
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Hilarious. (and weird)
Doesn't sound like there were any sheep involved!
Unless ... it's a troll by some random bugger.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 09:49am PT
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Mike Paul, Doug Van Holmes, Jonny Woodward, Andre Olobri, early 80s:
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 15, 2016 - 12:09pm PT
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Keep the stories coming
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 15, 2016 - 12:35pm PT
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Tar...it could be a troll to hide that sheep were in fact , abused , something future employers don't like to hear...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 12:46pm PT
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BTW, John, I spoke with Leslie Dittli at length a couple days ago.
And yes, that was Perry's blue Subaru at the big dig out.
......................................................................
Good one Doug!
Also, so cool you have our early climbing photos.
That JT/Bailey Canyon goldline belaying shot you recently posted of me is likely fall of '75.
My Dexter hiking boots were purchased before summer school physics class in 1975, and IIRC, our fisrt Josh trip was after the Mineral King backpack trip that same summer. By spring of '76, I had purchsed the red Mammut rope. Also, by then, I had red PAs and you wore brown RDs.
From that backpack trip, with your dad, summer '75, at the base of Sawtooth Peak, my first Sierra scramble:
Thanks for pulling that trip together for us!
Tarbuster, Andy, and that suave North Face Tuolumne tent.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 15, 2016 - 12:47pm PT
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Rose Van McDonald.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 12:50pm PT
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... or Rudy McNugget ... or ...
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 15, 2016 - 01:13pm PT
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Cool Roy.. You're part of the Tamarack alumni ! I'm living down the hill from the dittlis now.. Did a drive by this morning...Their house overlooks Crooked Creek and a large meadow where the Basque graze sheep...
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Pasadena, CA
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May 15, 2016 - 01:49pm PT
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Doug, Ellen Munoz sitting in front of the Hidden Valley sign?
Great memories of Andy dude. I believe it was your parents that told me I was growing on them :)
We were all so strange back then and not many chicks hung with you buggerers...
DE heavy. Sounds like some great experiences with a good friend.
Enjoying the stories, keep it up. Perhaps more about your dad...
Jeff, we're all looking forward to more of your contributions from BITD. Appreciate the time and energy.
Bushman, more Tobin stories!
V
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 01:50pm PT
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MoLinky, cranking the gumdrop:
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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May 15, 2016 - 01:55pm PT
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Keep it coming Roy. Great Stuff!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 15, 2016 - 02:06pm PT
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Doug's father Andy......we named the route "Andy Dude" at Suicide after him.
Sawtooth Peak was an early peak for me as well. Soon after my father died on Split Mountain his friend Valerie Cooley took me there and she and I bagged it....maybe 1970. She also took me on a rafting trip on the Stanislaus River right before one of the big dams was finished. It was soon after that that part of the canyon was flooded forever (?) and that whitewater erased.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 02:08pm PT
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Your old man died on Split Mountain, wow.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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E, Fred Ziel, Trono, after summiting the Pan-Am, October 79:
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 15, 2016 - 04:31pm PT
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Thanks Roy, not familiar with the John Wolfe era crew. Gotta love the Munoz'
Love that photo too ; ) Met E three months after that climb.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 15, 2016 - 04:40pm PT
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Being part Viking, and knowing many, I gotta say I've never seen one like
The E with such a righteous 'fro. Gotta be a story there, even if only
of interest to geneticists.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 05:10pm PT
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Here you go, Vikki, an excerpt from Randy's article, posted way up thread:
Interestingly, when Doug and I first started climbing in what was then "The Monument", we only knew about the Desert Rats, because John Wolfe and Bob Dominick had produced the only guidebook. So we were totally ignorant of the Stonemasters, who were already in full force.
For instance, a benchmark Stonemaster climb in Yosemite, Astroman, had been done in 1975. In 1976, the following winter, our first year at Josh (we were both 15), we knew nothing of it. We knew nothing of The Vampire, at Tahquitz … or Largo, or Accomazzo, Richard Harrison, Bachar, et al. Just the Desert Rats. As far as we knew, they were the dudes!
IIRC, in that original (or early) orange Wolfe/Dominick guidebook, there was a picture of John Long soloing White Lightning, on Hemingway Buttress.
Before there was a Tapes brothers, there was just Steve, of Steve and Dave Tapes. I wish I knew Steve's last name. (Dave Tapes a.k.a. Dave Wonderly). Steve pointed this picture out to me from one of those early guidebooks of Largo, climbing that route without a rope. This was where I first learned about about the activity of free soloing. And John long.
Another tidbit, John Wolfe's wife, Mona Wolfe, is the mother of the Stahl brothers. The person who has been posting here as Stahlbro, is Rob Stahl.
Doug and I used to see Dave Stahl, when he was just a scraggly blond haired kid, even younger than we were, (he was 13 years old I believe), running all over the rocks looking honed. One day we saw him top roping Water Chute, 5.9. We thought he was bad ass. For his age, he probably was!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 05:35pm PT
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E, The Viking, Humdinger, Yosemite:
photo, Shawn Curtis
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 15, 2016 - 05:49pm PT
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A classic early shot of Juan Largo pulling hard on thin dime holds.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 15, 2016 - 05:53pm PT
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!!! Thin crimps, big fella ... looks desperate!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 15, 2016 - 05:56pm PT
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And, yes, Craig Fry was on the FA of Last Unicorn and lead a section (like the rest of us). He drilled the third bolt. This is above the acid traverse (which was boldly lead by Dave Evans), in the thin corner section. We took turns drilling. After Craig came down, I finished up to the belay ledge and drilled a bolt and placed a fixed pin (at that large, grey pointed flake, far up and left of the corner).
[There is a "story" about that bolt and fixed pin when Hensel and I went up to do a second pitch...]
Jim Angione either eating or smoking something and DE belaying.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 15, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
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Wow
Such beautiful rock
Got anymore pics from that day
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 15, 2016 - 06:16pm PT
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Wow Roy, so thoughtful! Thanks for the history, insight, and another nice photo.
Rellly, Viking on father's side...hair from the mother's side : )
Randy, nice photos and the rock is beautiful. Thanks. Bring em on...
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Karen
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ ~
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May 15, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
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I'm pretty sure the woman sitting in front of the Hidden Valley sign was Woody Stark's wife Mary.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 15, 2016 - 07:01pm PT
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found some old scans
EE
Owens River Gorge
Josh
Not E
First ropes on "Black Diamond"
Wow!!!!
use the wrong words and I get this?
I fixed it, now I'm not wrong
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 15, 2016 - 07:18pm PT
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Pics of E on Bloodline...NOT the FFA.
Already documented in previous threads.
Nice photos though.
CF just thinks that every repost is going to rewrite history.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 15, 2016 - 08:55pm PT
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Craig, I for one, appreciate ALL the superb photos...what great memories : )
Some of which are blurrier than others...it's OK DE.
Good stuff!
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Spencer Lennard
Trad climber
Williams, Oregon
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May 15, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
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This is another award-winning thread packed with inspirational images, memories (accurate and fantasy)and brilliant and never ending slander.
I sure wish I had carried a camera back in the day.
Bushman, have you ever climbed (or mostly climbed) the longest route on Tahquitz rock? If so can you please report that detailed saga?
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 15, 2016 - 09:55pm PT
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And let's hear about skateboarding from Humber Park to Hemet...
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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May 16, 2016 - 07:14am PT
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This is a great thread with some good stories and cool photos.
I climbed a lot at the Monument starting in 1972 and around 79' I didn't go there as much opting for other climbing areas.
I guess I should have hung around more in the 80's it would have been cool to see some 2 legged sheep.
Keep the posts and photos coming.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 16, 2016 - 07:39am PT
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Rellly- check out the Angel of Death thread with the Melodic Viking Death Metal on it...favored by many Vikings.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2016 - 07:56am PT
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Infamous rescue on the WMW on Tahquitz?... Was actually my 2nd attempt at a fifth class route. Regardless of the quality and experience of my partners and mentors, I had a pretty rocky (no pun intended) start at climbing which I found needless to say, quite demoralizing.
Spencer, I'll add the White Maiden's tale to my list and save the story for a later post, but will be happy to tell it.
For now, I'm off to work , busy trying to keep prospective customers from the clutches of my competitors.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 16, 2016 - 08:46am PT
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Roy,
We spent a bunch of wasted hours finding different ways to enter the Water Chute. I think we came up with 5, 3 of which involved running at the thing and jumping into it. I think the best was running and doing a 180 mid-air to land arse first.
I think my stepdad's (John Wolfe) brother stuck it first with a flying double arm-bar. He took some gymnastics was reputed to be able to do a standing double backflip. I did seem him do it into a pool once.
After we did the upper spire we were getting ready to step off to start the rappel. We heard a siren go off, and remembered they were getting ready to blow up a bunch of loose rock on upper Yosemite falls after some tourists were killed on the trail. We decided to stay and watch ;-)
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 16, 2016 - 10:50am PT
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Sewellymon,
Yep! My brother and his bride to be lived there for a while. Had some good parties too! I was actually born in Sierra Madre. I'm sure we hung out at some point.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 16, 2016 - 11:23am PT
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Doing it in Robbins added another level of challenge as well!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2016 - 12:12pm PT
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From a thread Largo started about Mount Rubidoux History:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1795656&msg=1795656#msg1795656
........................................................................
In the middle of the photograph from this bouldering competition are Vikki Vernola and Russ Walling, maybe Doug Munoz or Dick Cilley on the right?
photo, Guy Keesee/Yafer collection
.........................................................................
I would guess Doug Munoz to the right of them. Though, that's pretty hard to know unless Doug tells us he was there that day.
Doug used to sit that way with his legs together. Could be Dick Cilley, as noted below. (This person appears shorter than Doug).
Another look:
Commentary about the picture, from the man with the animal nickname:
Damn! Looks like me right in the middle and Dick Cilley just to the right. The chick down and left might be The Creature and bottom left corner might be Banny Root? Is that Loomis down there too?
The lower right hand corner looks like a couple of kids we called the Bowling Ball Twins. Just left of them looks like the Rubidoulux aka Chris Hartfield or maybe Dave Tapes.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 16, 2016 - 12:38pm PT
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I remember watching Millis on the Water Chute. He had it wired.
I walked up in my RDs and stepped right into it. He was...confused.
How in hell did I do that on the first try when it had taken him several to get it down?
I had no answer other than it was sheer n00bish luck, but with a good teacher, obviously.
This was in the week prior to Christmas in 1970, a bitter cold experience in the high desert, and it even snowed one night, chilling the Red Mountain to perfection.
Tad, nothing like having an extra challenge by using RRs! Why no friction boots, bud? Were those all you had?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 16, 2016 - 12:39pm PT
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I thought it was a pic of him when he auditioned for Caddyshack!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2016 - 12:57pm PT
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Steve Sutton, Fire or Retire, 1987:
Tarbuster, Butterfly, 1984:
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 16, 2016 - 01:12pm PT
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The Fish said " The chick down left might be The Creature"...WOW! His memory is back. Yep, that's The Creature.
Where is the venue? SD? Rubidoux? V- Thanks again Roy. Nice shirtless photo of the Butterfly, great looking stone.
Are you sure that's Dick behind you Russ? Kinda looks like Mooney...where are those glasses when you need them?
Mooney, were you there that day? Person does appear shorter than you and face is looking more like Cilley's...
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 16, 2016 - 01:21pm PT
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The Rubidoux Bouldering Contests (all two of them) were loads of fun and attracted climbers from near and far. [They were held at Mt. Rubidoux near downtown Riverside]
KP and Hensel selected almost all the problems... my job was to keep them from sandbagging the ratings too much. Rob Raker used his portable personal computer (when these were a real rarity) to help tally the scores and get results out in a timely manner.
Lots of people volunteered their time, ropes and effort to pull them off. The payoff was so many people getting together and having a blast.
There is a thread/TR about the 1984 Contest http://www.supertopo.com/tr/The-1984-Mt-Rubidoux-Bouldering-Contest-with-some-Legends/t11301n.html
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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May 16, 2016 - 01:30pm PT
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The Rubidoux Bouldering Contests (all two of them) were loads of fun and attracted climbers from near and far.
Randy, what year was the other one?
I went to one of those, but don't remember which one.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 16, 2016 - 01:32pm PT
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Randy, thanks for the history of the contests and the link. Great fun!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2016 - 01:44pm PT
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Good call Randy, with the Mount Rubidoux contest thread!
Nice pictures, done with a large format camera.
Bill Leventhal identifies the guy on the left as Gargoyle,
I think he might be right. It was the cigarette that threw me off the first time I saw these:
Photo, Radish, from the 1984 Mount Rubidoux thread
We don't really have very many pictures of The Gargoyle!
The clincher for me would be his nose, and look at the size of those feet!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 16, 2016 - 01:46pm PT
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That is Cilley for sure. That post was years ago lawoman. I think the Driver ID'd those people for me. I only know it is Cilley... the rest are ghosts.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2016 - 01:54pm PT
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The Skip and Dick Show, Colorado, 1986:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2016 - 02:10pm PT
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Mrs. McCord's first grade class, Carden School, 1967
Doug Munoz on the far left, Tarbuster in bowtie:
That's my first girlfriend, Jill, on the left.
In second grade, though, Angela on the upper right, lured me with her siren call.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 16, 2016 - 02:27pm PT
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Randy, what year was the other one?
I went to one of those, but don't remember which one.
The first one was in 1983, with second in 1984.
The idea for the Rubidoux contests originated from a running series of bouldering contests at Woodson that had ceased a number of years previously (I think Werner Landry was one of the organizers of those). We had such good memories of those Woodson contests that we decided to put one together on our home turf.
Without Henny and Powell's motivation, and help from so many others, these would have never gone further than campfire bs.
After helping organize the two Rubidoux contests, I think we got a better idea of how much work this was and had a better appreciation for why the Woodson contests had fallen into obscurity.
I think that the year following the 1984 Rubidoux contest (or not too long afterwards) another Woodson contest (Great Western Bouldering Contest) was held. It may have lasted for a couple years (at various locals in SD County).
All were a blast and evoke great memories.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 16, 2016 - 03:15pm PT
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At one of those Rubidoux contests I was excited to find out a girl I liked and had just met was to be a judge/belayer at one of the spots. I got the beta from RV and sauntered down to hang out with little Margy.
Well...one thing led to another and most of you know how that turned out.
She has a classic story regarding the "Skip and Dick Show."
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 16, 2016 - 03:29pm PT
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E says CF is right. He did the FFA with Craig on Bloodline, back then a 5.12.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 16, 2016 - 03:59pm PT
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No comment.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 16, 2016 - 04:12pm PT
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Hey LA Woman, the only problem is that E is wrong and that the FFA of Bloodline was done on the FA.
This has come up a number of times on the retardnet mostly due to the fact that Dr. F has a bad, bad, bad memory and that E wasn't there on the day of the FA.
It is an honest mistake.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2016 - 04:21pm PT
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Just loving this thread!
All those Stahl Bro pictures on the previous page are super fun.
Especially the picture of Dave and Irene.
Dave's Margie picture is the stuff of cuteness.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 16, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
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Who actually did the FA of The Fry Problem? Largo?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 16, 2016 - 04:29pm PT
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I know Roy, just look at that girl!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 16, 2016 - 04:31pm PT
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"Stahl Brothers" camp scene.
Left to right...Todd Battey, hidden girl(?), Tom Burke, Craig Fry, David Evans, Maureen Battey (Mo), Dave Stahl, Karl, the Jewish girl(?).
Help me out.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 16, 2016 - 04:31pm PT
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I was at the Rubidoux Bouldering Contests where Ron Fawcett won and nabbed a porta-ledge as a prize. (Fawcett was a true master and impressed everyone.)
I remember meeting Margy and her friend Kelly for the first time at the Rubidoux contest, two single girls; DE and Dave Tapes where all over them before anyone else had a chance.....
Here is a memory; Roy and my first trip to Joshua Tree armed with Lowa Boots, a partial set of stoppers and a Joe Brown Helmet. Long faces; as we were failing to get very far off the ground on anything we tried. A group of climbers saw us flailing away. Took pity on us and graciously led us up the mighty southeast corner (F4) of intersection rock for our first JT climb. Standing up on intersection rock for the first time was priceless.
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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May 16, 2016 - 04:39pm PT
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Hey Dave i really dont care but It prolly depends on your definition of a free ascent
mine was good....by just about anybodys standards.
I think that the doc indicated that maybe there was some um er " hangin" going on during your ascent. when Craig and todd battey took me to that route......
Craig followed it free *)
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 16, 2016 - 04:40pm PT
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Great post Doug...it is quite a magical place...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 16, 2016 - 04:42pm PT
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Thanks E, yes it does depend on your definition of a "free ascent,"...and I'm sure yours was very clean.
That doesn't surprise me. What does is your quick presence on the internet, poised and ready!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 16, 2016 - 04:47pm PT
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I only remember one complete free lead
Not really sure about other ascents of the route, where aid may have been used on the ascent.
I remember E leading it, and believing it was the first complete free lead, I followed
some other folks prolly got a TR
I took photos, which were too rare back then
Please let us know where we are wrong.
Then we can get over this dispute.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 16, 2016 - 05:00pm PT
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The Fry Problem as I recall was first done by the Boxer. I think he named it "Fry Quits" to go along with Martin Quits, Stitcher Quits, Mr. Bunny Quits, Sphincter Quits, etc...
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ionlyski
Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
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May 16, 2016 - 05:08pm PT
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More posts from Jen please!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 16, 2016 - 05:09pm PT
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e-mail Largo
and ask him if the Boxer did it first
Since he was there the day we named it the "Fry Problem"
also there were; molinky, ,mari, Bullwinkle, Jessica, other hanger ons, like Yabo etc...
if he agrees, then we will call it the "Fry Problem"
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E
Ice climber
mogollon rim
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May 16, 2016 - 05:10pm PT
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yup every once in a while I get on this site....mostly to post stuff on my death metal thread.
Everybody is watching this thread so why not state the facts.
Hard to believe that you guys are still hashing out this dumbass shite
I dont think I got credit for this one in the guide...credit goes to DEE ya?
If ya wanna talk sh#t lets address the facts surrounding the first ascent of Black Diamond....you know the guys that were hiding in the bushes planning to steal your route and did
I do believe that got the right amount of bolts...5 in 60'
led that one twice...flash with witness
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 16, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
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We were planning on putting in more bolts on the Black Diamond
but DE wasn't part of that story
it was the sheep buggererrs that were hiding in the bushes, waiting to Pounce!!
or maybe not really sheep buggerers, but molinky and tom
they were checking us out with binocs,
Then
"why put bolts in when they are such a bother to stop and have to place"
they put the bolts in while hanging on hooks, then fired up to the next good hook placement to put the next bolt in, without regard to future leaders.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2016 - 05:45pm PT
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Awesome.
Like, six conversations going here. Polyrhythmic!
...........................................................................
Last Unicorn has to be one of the coolest routes in Josh.
(haven't done it, that always helps the mystique factor)
photo, Randy Vogel
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 16, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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God dam she was cute, lower Rock Creek. This was right about the time she was Queened and won the California State Championship Downhill Title for the Sport class age 25-30 for the year 1983? This was at Big Bear, Snow Summit in 1983/4.
Our little and way fast dog Scout chasing.
Check the focus.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 16, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
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Reminds me of a scene I witnessed while working the jail years ago...half a dozen naked men in a holding cell....waiting to be processed into the facility....standing against one wall....jerking off to see who could shoot the farthest across the room.
ummmm..... ok.
Back to the buggery
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 16, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
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I guess the dispute has been settled
Next topic
why are all of Tar's posts of photos so much better?
That Last Unicorn is going offfffffffffff!!!
I want to go there tomorrow and FS it!
or envision it tonight in my dreams
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2016 - 06:13pm PT
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I use photo bucket and size them however I think best.
So, usually they are larger.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2016 - 06:18pm PT
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Mark Rolofson, Cole Arête, 1984:
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 16, 2016 - 06:23pm PT
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I love the "Cole Arête"
you jump up and grab a piece of coal and then you have to mantel it
and there is this other hold that you can use....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2016 - 06:39pm PT
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Thanks for putting the little dunce cap on the "e". I snagged it!
..................................................................
Hey Doug, you think those Goldline photos are perhaps from Bailey Canyon and not Joshua Tree?
I lost all of the original Bailey Canyon Polaroids from 1974.
Waffle stompers and work boots!
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 16, 2016 - 07:47pm PT
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Definetly Bailey canyon, most likely 8th grade
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 16, 2016 - 07:53pm PT
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Yes, I would love to see you Free Solo the Last Unicorn. That would be awesome. How about Wednesday? I can make that.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 16, 2016 - 07:53pm PT
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Thanks moonie
it is a very important question
what do our kids grow up to be?
hey DE
please discuss the bloodline time line for us
so we can consider the facts
sorry on the FS
I did it already, earlier today
it was sweet, the 2nd pitch was easier w/out any rope drag
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 16, 2016 - 08:00pm PT
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Gotta keep the words-to-photo ratio proper:
Jocelyn and Pottenger: Sunday morning hangover action, 1985:
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 16, 2016 - 08:04pm PT
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Mooney, It's a very cool experience...it's all about staying calm and allowing your heart to beat normally. We have Tigers here..fast heart beat, adios amigo.
Can never get tired of looking at JT rock...incredible looking stone.
We need more chicks on this thread. Glad the dudes are chill'in.
Oops, spoke too soon...the guys are NOT chill'in. We're all getting up in years as The Fish would say, who remembers? Who cares! It was all fricken super fun good times. Young, wild, and free...sex, drugs, rock'in roll, remember? Oh yeah, and some of us climbed...
8 more days with the students! I think I can I think I can... We had a pakalolo bust in 4th grade last week about a doz. kids. Thought I'd never be shocked in all of my years of high risk counseling, these kids were 8-10 yo!! Some girl brings an oz of her dad's best stuff and hands it out in the cafe before school starts. Sounds like some of em ate it before going into the testing lab. I need to get out...FAST!! Where are all the new young counselors? Send them to HI, they're needed.
On yeah, EE is probably the most stalwart guy I know and know there are others that would agree wholeheartedly, but guess what?? After all the climbing he has done in the last 47 years, do you think he remembers EVERYTHING? We are all human with limitations. Let the sh#t go.
Cragman, WELL SAID!!
Oooohhhhh Jeeeffff! We need some stories and photos before things get out a hand here...
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 16, 2016 - 08:08pm PT
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Now declared a pussy
What's next,
fist a cuffs?
and for what???
only DE will tell
I anxiously await
I sure hope it's me and not EE that's in trouble
since it was EE that says he led the FFA of Bloodline
and I agree with him, and have the photos of the FFA
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 16, 2016 - 08:17pm PT
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 16, 2016 - 08:17pm PT
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Got the Girl!!!
I guess you didn't read up on the current state of the Sheep bugger bachelor hood
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 16, 2016 - 08:18pm PT
|
I want a McLoven DL
where did you get that??
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 16, 2016 - 08:18pm PT
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LOL. So good......and just in time.....time to go back to light hearted fun.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 16, 2016 - 08:20pm PT
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 16, 2016 - 08:23pm PT
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 16, 2016 - 08:25pm PT
|
At least now you can tweet from the Cube Site
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 16, 2016 - 08:30pm PT
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 16, 2016 - 08:33pm PT
|
NOOOOOOOOOOOOooo
Not moreeeeeeeeee Topooooooooosssssss
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2016 - 08:35pm PT
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Hank Caylor and Bachar:
This was the last time I saw JB, during his slideshow tour.
Dude could really roll it out and had great comic timing.
Hank was doing his best drunk & belligerent peanut gallery show, interrupting, swooning, cat calling.
(Hank appears to be with child)
Bachar didn't care, and just said: "Heh, heh. I like it!"
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 16, 2016 - 08:47pm PT
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Walt was what my old man would call a real gross out artist.
We just called it The Walt Show.
Walt on an FA:
photos, Hy Zornes
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 16, 2016 - 09:09pm PT
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Posted this on the Stoners Highway thread, seems to fit here too. Dave and Erik doing their best "Ho Mohn!" pose.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 16, 2016 - 09:40pm PT
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LOLLOLLOLLOLLOL Russ you really know when to ham it up...Unreal!
McLovin the HI license, looks real ; ) Please delete the Mule Show, nasty.
Jeff, no worries! Bring em on, it's just for fun, remember?
Roy has many wonderful friends and resources that contribute
great material. Look at that mag collection alone.
Randy, nice shot of E...and DEE. Largo impressions were popular BITD.
Thanks for getting back to being lighthearted...life can be heavy at times.
Cragman, WELL SAID!!
Aloha Todd!! Lots of good memories...hope to get to JT someday... Thanks for the photos.
It's V from BITD. Been on the Big Island 26 years now. How many kiddos do you have?
Teenagers? Retired? Glad you joined the bugger thread, not that you're a bugger or anything...
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
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May 16, 2016 - 09:44pm PT
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DE;.....sheep buggerer.......I guess....I always thought the sheep buggerers were those dudes who did the stick fights in idyllwild....kats, memes, disimpleton, the hand;..those dudes;....my memory of those days went up in smoke....although there was the faction of sheep callers who let out the "baaaaahhhh". sheep noise whenever someone hung on the rope or fell off a climb....(you were immediately speed lowered to the turf once you weighted the rope)....
For the record;...i was NOT ever one of those.....you know;..sheep buggererers.....whatever they even were;....i wouldn't consider myself being lumped in with "those" guys......nothing wrong with them, mind you.....i just hung with other circles most of the time...(although i have done a few climbs with DEE......a few thousand.....)..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
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May 16, 2016 - 09:49pm PT
|
This is about the time frame you are talking about.......stuff was going on in the "monument"...and it wasn't all climbing..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
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May 16, 2016 - 09:52pm PT
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DEE.....climbing 5.11.....(i know;..it's a warm up grade now for the gym climbers;.....it still has some street cred in joshua tree;.....watered down in new jack and red rocks.......no doubt..)..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
|
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May 16, 2016 - 09:55pm PT
|
If anyone buggered a sheep...it's probably this one here..
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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May 16, 2016 - 09:59pm PT
|
[photoid=456712]
Too much time on their hands...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 17, 2016 - 08:11am PT
|
E, M&M, Atlantis, 1983:
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
|
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May 17, 2016 - 10:52am PT
|
Roy, Nice photo...my Needles memories are returning ; )
Be nice today everybody...
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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May 17, 2016 - 12:36pm PT
|
Wow!
Great photo barrage!
Please keep me coming!!
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
|
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May 17, 2016 - 12:39pm PT
|
Wow Jeff...flipp'in awesome! I really don't think that's me on Pinched Rib though...did frequent bandana's,
but the shorts and socks are not mine...long braid down the back...not me. It is The Creech sitting on the rock though.
Larry roll'in, the baby Fish, E on Hidden Arch, nice! Keep em coming.
I'll add an "after" pic of Miss Vikki later.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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May 17, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
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Rest day on the Sheep Ranch:
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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May 17, 2016 - 01:30pm PT
|
Quick binger with the Hot Line Bong, between laps on whatever the 11c of the day was:
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
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May 17, 2016 - 01:36pm PT
|
Rest day on the Sheep Ranch
What, y'all were so high you thought it was day? Whoa!
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
|
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May 17, 2016 - 01:51pm PT
|
Here's the "after" pic : )
Jeff, Thanks for your time and energy you've exerted to make more memories!
I should have done some photo shopping...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
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May 17, 2016 - 02:00pm PT
|
Sheepbuggerer recruiting poster:
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 17, 2016 - 02:24pm PT
|
Vic, looking good for mid 50s
if I saw you on the street I would still recognize you
Do you live in Hawaii? why LA women then
Thanks for the photos Sewelly
keep em coming
that one of me must be way old, EBs and my homemade leather chalk bag
What year did Fir'es come out again?
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
|
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May 17, 2016 - 02:47pm PT
|
Craig, Thanks for the compliment, 56 next month. HI can keep one young in some ways, don't have to deal with the multitudes and the kiddos keep me young. You can take the woman out of LA, but you can't take the LA out of the woman ; ) I'm really a mountain girl at heart, could only live on the Big Island with it's peaks. Looking to retire early, move back to CA for a short time, then...let the adventures begin! Would like to live near the Rocky Mountains...
*I changed my location to Buggerville.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 17, 2016 - 03:15pm PT
|
That's a nice run of photos Jeff!
Good climbing portraits of our buddies.
For historical flavor, this one of Dave Tapes is my favorite:
I like this for composition & ambience.
Vikki in happy Zen composure on cool rock garden structure:
Photos, Jeff Sewell
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
|
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May 17, 2016 - 03:23pm PT
|
Seems like many of us lived in Tuolumne summer of '81. We went to Mammoth a lot...it was the first summer of the outdoor concerts there...several of us went to see Jimmy Buffett?..I think it was free! E and I moved to Boulder after that summer, returning to Yosemite the following summer for vacation!
Roy, was doing yoga full time BITD : )
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
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May 17, 2016 - 03:32pm PT
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So that picture? is that the young LA woman?
And It is a stellar # , the code for the picture is, - 4,5,6,7,8,9
And Now this took 2 of us to do so
(and yes , both are cool looking spotz)
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
|
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May 17, 2016 - 03:40pm PT
|
Gnome of the Diabase, Yes, the young LA Woman, The Creature, The Creech, V,
Vic, and whatever else...I know I know you, remind me who you are...
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
|
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May 17, 2016 - 03:43pm PT
|
The Summer of 81, half of the Southern California climber scene was in Tuolumne meadows
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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May 17, 2016 - 03:43pm PT
|
Awesome pictures except what is with the Children of the Corn?
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
|
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May 17, 2016 - 03:48pm PT
|
Overwatch, martians...Lost in Space from BITD.
That's where The Fish got his name...the palsying made him famous! He would just suddenly drop and start flopping all over the ground...LOL.
Cosmiccragsman, spent many daze out there from '79 - '81, '82 mostly with E.
Jeff, did Laura end up in Tazmania??
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
|
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May 17, 2016 - 03:59pm PT
|
Wow Jeff, awesome string of pictures. The Dave Wonderly series is great, with the tennis shoes and all.
Bob, Totally Classic, per usual. Waugh gave me the one you did of the "Don't Call Me Fifi." These things are art.
Vicky. Super nice that you honored us with your comments. Glad you are doing well.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
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May 17, 2016 - 04:07pm PT
|
LA , I am a Lurker and was around , I was in the Monument the 1st time as tourist with the family in 78 or 79 (looking at colleges with big sis) We spent a day top roping, that was for me, then we stayed in Plam Springs, that was the family thing.
Then once my sister moved to Santa Monica, giving me a couch to recuperate on,
I made the regular winter/spring break pilgrimage, 80, 81, 83 , 84 ,87, & 88.
maybe I'm in some group shots, any chance that some one remembers?
I was not in the competition for the ladies. At just a smidge over 5 feet tall, not much to look at compared to those OC boys, but i was a climbing' fool, with leather for skin, my secret weapon,
as well as the fact that I weighed in @ under 100 pounds! (a wrestling thing, so I knew what I weighed)
ah youth, so wasted on the young,
but maybe not us?Who took the picture?
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
|
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May 17, 2016 - 04:32pm PT
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Jeff, nice looking rock. Love the old skool wood pipe ;^)
Thanks Randy, it's been good catching up with folks.
Very fond memories of Alan Nelson the summer of '81 in Tuolumne.
He's someone I'll never forget. Good times.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 17, 2016 - 04:35pm PT
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Sheepbuggerers? Retrobolting my routes?! ARF! ARF!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 17, 2016 - 04:37pm PT
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Sibylle and I hiked up there between July 1-4 1977 and did that baby (The Smokestack). It was a big day.
We borrowed Gail Wilt's (she lived in Bishop and was Alan Bartlett's room mate) car for the approach (we had hitch hiked from the OC) and did some damage to it. We had to buy her a new muffler after.
We also did Cucumbers 5.10 (on Cardinal Lodge Crag), and the NE Face of Picture peak IV 5.10 that weekend.
We did the 2nd free ascent of Keeler two weeks later.
That was her gift to me. The idea that if you were going climbing you should go big every time.
Well.....I guess that wasn't her only gift to me....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 17, 2016 - 04:39pm PT
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Breakfast, the most important meal of any climbing day.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 17, 2016 - 04:59pm PT
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Hey look! It's the Scheeeeeepbugglerzz! Hey guys, cna I climnb with you??!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 17, 2016 - 05:02pm PT
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All kidding aside...we all worship in the Church Of The Monument.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 17, 2016 - 05:19pm PT
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] heavy on the Saturation and compromised exposure/brightness;
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2016 - 05:23pm PT
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Dee you dog you!!
I always had a crush on Sibylle, since the first time I saw her climbing at Suicide in the early seventies (edit), how could a 15 year old lad forget...
But of course I doubt she knew I existed, I was but a boy, and a novice at that.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 17, 2016 - 05:51pm PT
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Doty
Those were Keith Cunning's children
The lead Uplander
he put up Power Fingers, which I mentioned a couple pages back
He was one of Largo's protégées
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 17, 2016 - 05:53pm PT
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Never heard of this Bruckman character
are you talking about Booges?
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WBraun
climber
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May 17, 2016 - 06:08pm PT
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How hard is that thing?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 17, 2016 - 06:10pm PT
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Smokestack!
Climbed the Smokestack with Banny Root in spring of 1980. With Jerome Carlian I had also done an early season ascent of the south face of Clyde Minaret, in May. We did a direct start, now rated 5.9 or harder IIRC, and I wore Lowa Scouts.
Smokestack was a real hoot. Plenty of snow still on the Wheeler Crest, so we carried an ice ax and definitely needed it for the descent gully. Once we got to the bottom, the two of us broke out down the hill, hurling ourselves over sage bush and making deep landings in the soft sand with our heels.
It was a straightforward day as far as the climbing went, I led all of the pitches, and it was a hearty, adventurous climb, but the memory of blasting down out of the Wheeler Crest with Banny will stay with me for a long time.
Roy Boy, summit of Clyde Minaret, may, 1980:
.......................................................................
Sibylle and Rick Accomazzo, 2008:
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 17, 2016 - 06:57pm PT
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It's Boymen...Thanks for the nice pics bvb, Gnome, Jeff and Roy...gotta love those Bugger shots. You guys are going to break 1,000.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 17, 2016 - 09:50pm PT
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Yes, Sibylle was one of the 3 loves of my life.....And only second to Margy the one I climbed the most sh#t with.
First El Cap route, 2nd free Keeler, Wind Rivers, Sierra big stuff etc. as well as other more valuable life lessons.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 17, 2016 - 10:38pm PT
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At any given moment, you could count on the Girls of Scumbag to be in various states of undress. Too many trips to France early on had their effect:
Fitness was key:
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 17, 2016 - 10:48pm PT
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July 21-24, 1977
We hitch hiked up for Keeler as well. My mother was in Mexico and had left me her orange Datson wagon, it was a lemon. She made me promise that I wouldn't drive it to the mountains so I figured that the desert was OK. We would drive it to The Outpost in Victorville and hitch from there. It was strait forward to hitch up 395 from there. With Sibylle standing there we always got rides.
Jeff it was fairly cruise but I did the majority of the leading. I led 15 and she led 3, or so the records state. We spent one whole day at the base acclimatizing and doing other things to further our acclimatization.
I guess the most interesting thing about our ascent was that we went in planning on doing that route on Mt. Hale, a little further in. I was scared of Keeler but realized as we were hiking that it couldn't be anymore difficult than Hale. I told SCH, "let's do Keeler instead." She was totally psyched.
I remember the crux pitch for me was a 10A/R or so OW, I may have been off route. I placed my biggest hex, a #10 endwise (the biggest available at the time) and had to go quite a ways chicken winging, heel toe, etc. up the perfect splitter. I remember talking with Jay Smith later from his and Richard Harrison's 3rd free ascent 2 weeks later. Jay said he went further left and found a 5.9 finger crack.
This was somewhere between the Red Dihedral and the Glen Denny bolt protected OW.
The 10B pitch down low was loose but not too bad and the Glen Denny bolt protected 10A OW was easy.
I thought the Red Dihedral pitch was one of the best I had ever done, great position.
We missed the classic ledge on the arête near the top featured on the cover of Ascent Magazine, may have been slightly left.
We did it in 18 pitches in 9 hrs.
The rack was totally minimal, Chouinard stoppers 2-7 (or 8? I don't think the 8 was out yet but...), Hexes 7-10 and about 6 or 8 runners.
I don't remember much else except being totally stoked and that it snowed lightly on top.
My only regret was not taking a camera.
Two weeks later we went to the Wind River range and shredded and a month later my first El Cap rt., The Nose (early all clean ascent), it was her 3rd Captain route. She had already done the Salathe with Tom Dunwiddy and the Triple Direct with Beverly Johnson, "Walls Without Balls."
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2016 - 11:30pm PT
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Edited and reposted from the EE appreciation thread;
With EE on the Salathe
Although it was thirty five years ago it's time I paid homage and recounted the story from my first El Cap route with a dude who's still livin' the dream on the big stone.
Erik Erikson was one of my first climbing partners and mentors at Tahquitz and Suicide rocks in the early and mid '70s. He took me on and witnessed most of my folly on the sharp end and at the edge of my ability or beyond. That was probably one of the easier albeit deadlier tortures that Erik was to endure during the course of my tutelage. His encouragement coupled with sardonic wit served to temper and quell my exuberant zeal for climbing myself into situations for which I had no obvious solution. Over the course of a couple years I narrowly survived several dangerous leader falls before Erik's chagrin and admonishments began to curb me of my wanton flirtations with mortality.
A few years and many routes later found us both in the Valley looking for a partner and teaming up for our first El Cap route. It was February 1981, five months after Tobin died soloing in Canada and I had come to Yosemite adrift and confused, but intent on trying to reconnect through climbing with some of what I had lost.
I remember talking with Erik about how I often thought about doing El Cap but never had the courage to attempt to do so until then. Tobin's death was the catalyst. I had been thinking a lot about how Tobin had done so many hard climbs, first ascents, and big alpine routes all over the world in his short life and yet here I was, barely getting up a few easier walls in California in relatively the same amount of time. It felt like I hadn't even started seriously climbing yet, so I felt honored and committed to doing the Salathe route at Erik's suggestion, and of course in the back of my mind I was still scared shitless at the prospect of launching off into the unknown on that long route.
Skip ahead a few days and we had been cruising all the aid and some 5.9 or 5.10, we'd gone through a cold dripping bivy in the alcove below El Cap Spire and we were starting on day three. Above the slimy block pitch, the next lead was mine and I was supposed to tension or swing to Sous Le Tout ledge and fix before our next bivy on the Block's sloping ledge. Erik had insisted much to my dismay that I was off route and was wasting precious hours or the possibility of our not summiting the next day. This weighed on my mind during the bivy as I slid down and scooched up all night long on the sloping ledge with the drip drip of the mini waterfall wetting my feet through my bag by dawn.
So Erik jugs up to my high point and sure enough I was off route and I'm starting to stress but he finds the left crack and Sous Le Toit and gets us back on route. After a thorough drubbing I started up some A2 about 30 feet above Erik when I levered out on a #3 cam and wanged it straight into my forehead, and commenced to cry out like a little girl as I felt the blood hot on my face and hand. I lowered down to Erik and whined plaintively, "How bad is it, Am I going to need stitches, man?" "Dibbs, it's just a scratch, man!" he says disgustedly. Without missing a beat he reaches up and slaps a patch of duct tape on my forehead and tells me, "Now get back up there!" I think we topped out that day or the following morning.
Too many years have gone by to remember much else, but I know how Erik looked up to and respected my big bro. For the way he kept it together for our first voyage up the Captain, I think Tobin would have been grateful to him for that.
-Tim
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 18, 2016 - 12:02pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 18, 2016 - 12:10pm PT
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Good story Bushman! February, 81, sounds like a winter ascent to me.
So your wet bivy was due to snow melt from the summit?
That's interesting. I would've guessed Erik climbed El Capitan some years earlier.
He and I and Ed Kaufer did Mount Watkins South Face in 80 or 81.
And yes, Tim, you and I climbed Swept Away together either in winter or fall of 81.
.........................................................................
Dave Evans wrote:
We hitch hiked up for Keeler as well. My mother was in Mexico and had left me her orange Datson wagon, it was a lemon. She made me promise that I wouldn't drive it to the mountains so I figured that the desert was OK. We would drive it to The Outpost in Victorville and hitch from there. It was strait forward to hitch up 395 from there. With Sibylle standing there we always got rides. That's funny! Hedging your bets and hitchhiking the rest of the way. Technically, you were in the mountains as soon as you started heading up Cajon pass!
......................................................................
Keep them coming Jeff!
Nice to finally see the archive after all these years.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 18, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
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But Roy, I didn't drive it TO the mountains, I drove it THROUGH the mountains and TO the desert.
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rbolton
Social climber
The home for...
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May 18, 2016 - 12:43pm PT
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Here you go, ecat!
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2016 - 02:26pm PT
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February or March of '81 on the Salathe on with E, Roy.
My first three I did back to back that spring, wall fever I guess...Salathe, Nose, and Zodiac.
Then came the burnout, ha ha!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 18, 2016 - 04:20pm PT
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Here
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 18, 2016 - 04:21pm PT
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comes
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 18, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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1000
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 18, 2016 - 05:11pm PT
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1001!!!!
I changed the photo
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 18, 2016 - 05:24pm PT
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Baa baa baaaaaaaaaaaaa
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 18, 2016 - 06:31pm PT
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I'm with eKaterinaSoulita on this one ...
The Jeff Sewell cache is wringing the yesterday sweetness straight into our hot little hands!
And yes, Jeff looks to be turned out in white Navy pants. Not painters pants. (high-waisted, flared or belled at the bottom) ... just a notch up on the scale of rare. All hail the 70s!
.......................................
*And I made those blue and red chalk bags with my bare hands on a black Singer!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 18, 2016 - 06:33pm PT
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Tarbuster, Taxman, 1984:
Mike Paul, Firé or Retiré, 1984:
Slides smoothed to immaculate perfection by Peter Haan!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 18, 2016 - 06:50pm PT
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Fire or Retire was one hell of a hard problem for me. I got up it exactly once, after a hundred tries, and never did it again. You gotta be smoooooth to get up that motherucker.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 18, 2016 - 06:52pm PT
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This thing, one the other hand: 100% wired from the get-go, Woodson represent:
On a trip down from Evergreen one Fall, 'tusi show it to me, flashed it, with spot-on accurate running beta from Mike. It has jams n' stuff! Is beta aid?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 18, 2016 - 06:55pm PT
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Speaking of Taxman and Mike, we showed up in Josh a couple of days after Tim and Dan (?) did it in '76 (?) I think? Kevin zeroed in on us like a lazer and dragged us up there straightaway. I think we got the 5th and 6th ascents.
Tasty little morsel, instant classic. Not as good as Whistling Sphincter, however!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 18, 2016 - 07:02pm PT
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This guy. World's most accomplished Joshua sandbag machine.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 18, 2016 - 07:04pm PT
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The all-important anti-kink rope maintainence session: c'mon baby, do the twist!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 18, 2016 - 07:08pm PT
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One day he's a mere grommet
Nest thing you know he's leading me and Brooke Sandahl on a early visionary Stingray exploratory voyage
Oh me oh my, how the time does fly...
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 18, 2016 - 07:33pm PT
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One weekend
Kevin (Dimes) and henny was all excited about their new TRs
and brought us out there for some fun
Zola Bud and Mary Decker
Great TRs, what year was that, 80 or 84'
it was an Olympic year
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 18, 2016 - 08:05pm PT
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Clean and Jerk! So good!!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 18, 2016 - 08:54pm PT
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Where the hell is Rich Sims....when...you need him?
Grossmont Community Hospital FA with Rich... 5.8 4/84.
We bagged the FA AND got caught by security (well after). .... Then took the elevator down.
....they declared us too cool to bust. Prolly had Eric Clapton playing...
(edit)
I know Bob, WTF. We were lingering at the car and gloating on the
FA and gazing up at the "crag" when the security guard walked up, the rope was laying on the hood. We had to tell him all about it and he was totally cool.
we might have even had beers opened....well OK, now I'm stretching it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 18, 2016 - 09:05pm PT
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Too cool for school, Dave?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 18, 2016 - 09:11pm PT
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Zola Bud 10D and Mary Decker 10B
9/87
Hmmm, not actually an Olympic year.
OK what evs....
"All That Matters Is Now."
Chris Pierce
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 19, 2016 - 07:40am PT
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Hey, BVB, you got that Mike Paul pre-Caliente portrait handy?
Pretty much just a headshot. He looks pensive, focused, heroic.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 19, 2016 - 07:41am PT
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Mike Paul, Hobbit Roof, 1984:
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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May 19, 2016 - 10:30am PT
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Hoooweee! This thread is a really good book..
Thanks everyone for your contributions and "electric" sense of histrionics.
And for somehow tying my own fun times on these climbs to the past and future.
We ALL must have taken the same batch at some point..
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 19, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
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I must've been lucky not to get one of those funky pairs of EB's!
1980 I spent four weeks in the valley and then six weeks in Tuolumne..... And everybody was there.
It was "honor system" when paying for the campsite!
....
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 19, 2016 - 01:45pm PT
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Hey, BVB, you got that Mike Paul pre-Caliente portrait handy?
Pretty much just a headshot. He looks pensive, focused, heroic.
This one, Ray? Cool but concerned...
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 19, 2016 - 02:00pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 19, 2016 - 05:01pm PT
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One can easily see why we also called him "The Roman Statue"!
A good picture of Shawn Curtis too, standing proud ...
.....................................................................
Yes, Bob, that's the one. It's an essential Watusi portrait.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 19, 2016 - 05:12pm PT
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Tarbuster, The Importance of Being Earnest, 1983:
The crew, same day ... Craig Fry, Roy, Mike and Mari, Fred East:
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 19, 2016 - 06:41pm PT
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I checked my log
and there it was, 1983
The Importance of Being Ernest, 5.10c
but no other info
and not long after that, that log was abandoned
and I went to just check marks in the guide book, with no dates or anything else
well they weren't check marks, they were underlines of the names in the index
and underlines of the topo names
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 19, 2016 - 07:09pm PT
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That's fun.
Your notes should have it as spring?
I was among the first in the US to get a pair of Fire, spring of '83.
Just happened to be in Mike Graham's office when Lechlinski was picking up his investor pair, and there was one extra pair, my size.
*Spencer and Russ were also there that day on Importance of Being Earnest.
I wish I took more group photos BITD.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 19, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
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Tarbuster, Free South Africa, 1988:
Rudi, holding cord.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 19, 2016 - 08:56pm PT
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More pictures from the 2006 reunion.
Spencer Lennard, Bob Bolton:
Kim Carpenter:
Big Bob Bolton:
Carpenter, Spencer, Robs Muir:
Robs, BVB:
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 19, 2016 - 10:02pm PT
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I love the shot of Shawn standing tall, SWEET.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 20, 2016 - 05:36am PT
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Shawn was fun to hang out with: smart, patient, and up for a good time.
He liked well-organized, slickly produced music and had a good selection of live performances on videotape. Roxy Music, Frank Zappa, King Crimson.
......................................................................
Roy Boy, White Cliffs of Dover, 1981:
Photo, Shawn Curtis
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 20, 2016 - 07:05am PT
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Bouldering Flower of High Rank, 1985.
That year, each day after I finished guiding, Clark Jacobs and I used to solo tag team The Flower and Johnny Quest.
Then, every Sunday night, my weekend's work done in Idyllwild, I would blast up to Tuolumne for some midweek highlife.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 20, 2016 - 07:29am PT
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And the next shoe revolution, the Five-Tennie. The gray version was supreme at Josh.
Riding the Bearded Cabbage in the shoe with the black x-mark, 1985:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 20, 2016 - 07:40am PT
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Kenny Ariza, Illusion Dweller, 1984.
This is the year he and The General and crew showed up in matching pile jackets which Kurt's mom sewed for them all.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 20, 2016 - 07:41am PT
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Skip Guerin, Pinhead, 1984.
Skip was in Josh full force that year.
After guiding and partying with the weekenders, he and I and Mike Paul would drop down to North County San Diego and hang with Shawn for midweek R&R.
He stayed through spring and early summer, doing the Idyllwild thing with me and Mike and the Brother Gaines.
These photos were smartly cleaned and tuned by Peter Haan.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 20, 2016 - 05:27pm PT
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 20, 2016 - 05:53pm PT
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Skip G. was an awesome climber
but .. but..........
am I wrong to think that he may have been a bad influence is some esoteric way.
with those bare feet, or some other stuff
I'm not dissing him
just wondering what others have to say
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 20, 2016 - 06:02pm PT
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Well, Skip had a penchant for rum and coke cocktails, Häagen-Dazs, and sports cars.
Dude could party.
Also had endless stories of antics with Mark Wilford!
...Any of that could be a risk factor for impressionable types!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 20, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
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Almost looks like Dave Yerian standing behind Mike Paul at More Monk.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 20, 2016 - 06:20pm PT
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and that was Joe Hedge in one photo that was not annotated
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 20, 2016 - 06:30pm PT
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I did a FS of WOTWS the weekend before
and so was psyched about how it was such a spiritual experience it was
Completely a Zen mind meld with the nothingness that permeates all dimensions
miles away from other humans, just pure climbing motion, no stopping for belays, nor rope drag, no extra poundage of gear, all the other cool stuff associated with FS-ing
The next weekend
You guys!!!
Let's go do it..
It'll be awesome
Ya hooo
What The F...
what the hell is all the racket coming from the parking lot, a half a mile away...
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 20, 2016 - 06:48pm PT
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I call him Booges
he led Imaginary Voyage when we did it..
some the other nick names are a little disrespectful
the Roman Statue is OK
Nothing bad could be said about his on-sight lead ability, it was always top Notch!
We did at least 40 routes together, maybe more
and of course I would get a nice TR on the 5.12 R leads, and I would take the lead on the next pitch
Thanks bro
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 20, 2016 - 07:14pm PT
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Dave Tapes
I'm not sure if he's still alive or not
Black Diamond early ropes
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 20, 2016 - 07:19pm PT
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I was always hoping to sandbag Booges on some real Mt. Biking
take him on one of my trails
or not a trail
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 20, 2016 - 07:22pm PT
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Tarbuster, those first shots up top are fantastic!
Always love pictures with good shadows on rocks :)
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 20, 2016 - 07:31pm PT
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Them "Old Ass Hippies" were cool! Warren (I think) was like an AI guy with a giant brain. Maybe robotics? And Carrie was a.... hmmm..... ultimate crag eye candy with a could be your mom bent. Anyway, always great running into them at the crags. Good stuff. Where are they now??
As for the driver and the dislocation... It was his elbow, and he was having none of Jack honking on it as a cure. I don't think that elbow ever really recovered from that incident.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 20, 2016 - 07:35pm PT
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I don't think I posted this before.
The topo book has some good sh#t.
My crux pitch was lower than my memory told me.
I drew some good topos bitd.
OH, OH, note the comment on the gully to the right. DEATH! That is a whole other topic!!! Maybe Pat Brennan is out there somewhere.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 20, 2016 - 07:39pm PT
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Who is the girl?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 20, 2016 - 07:43pm PT
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Incredible lifespan to this thread!
At this point, we can declare the 2016 Josh Crew Reunion an unqualified success!!!
And we telecommuted the whole shebang.
................................................................
*The Driver's main squeeze, Nikki, IIRC.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 20, 2016 - 07:48pm PT
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I can't find the photo of the couloir that me and DE did a FD on
first descent, we used a special technique of keeping one hand on the back brake, and you slide the bike below you while toggling the back brake like a ski pole
but you just wait, Mt. Bike first descents are the new hot sport on the horizon!
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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May 20, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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BITD IN FULL EFFECT!
Thanks for the quality content.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 20, 2016 - 08:00pm PT
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I know, I know.
It's all about ME!
But, that is all I've got left.........and we all have to agree....This thread haS TO LIVE ON AS LONG AS POSSIBLE.
So... give it life.
I'm going to deal out these topos SLOWLY.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 20, 2016 - 08:03pm PT
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I don't remember Nikki but she sure looks hot. That black hair is.....!
Awesome.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 20, 2016 - 08:04pm PT
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Nice topo... slight correction: Bird on a Wire was done by Craig Fry as the FA. Along with most of the others.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 20, 2016 - 08:05pm PT
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Russell......I need to talk to you.......
......and wear the purple robe.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 20, 2016 - 08:06pm PT
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2016
If we were smart, we will schedule a Real Reunion for 2016 ASAP
I would have it my house, but then it would be too far for the fish and tucker
and then we would get Russ alone, we can pummel him in good ole sheep bugger fashion.
oh wait, me and Russ are going to first pummel Birchy, and then Locker
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 20, 2016 - 08:08pm PT
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Nikki was great... Driver was quite the ladies man and usually ran something with a bit of mocha in them.
I remember us blowing up the aluminum block Vega one of his women had on a JT run... then the Brazilian that spoke the Spanglish or PortuEnglish.... then the blond white girl with the dirty mouth who called me "Dick, c*#k, Ass...." once in a moment of frustration. Good to see he finally got the ship righted and settled down.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 20, 2016 - 08:19pm PT
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according to sources
The Driver is now a billionaire
and the Schmuztfink is now a highly respected real estate mogul
the story is that he was an East German Olympic Gymnast pumped with steroids and on an East German Hard Core regimented training regime.
So when he tunneled under the wall and escaped to the new world
and ended up in JT
he was a little taken back when he found out that Molinky was the best, and the Rock at Josh was really abrasive, but he went on to become the world renowned Schmuztfink, and that he could copyright, right?
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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May 20, 2016 - 08:26pm PT
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There is so much yarn I could knit a sweater.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 20, 2016 - 08:32pm PT
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After reading "Night of the Long Knives" the Schmutzfink turned his swap meet finds of Nazi memorabilia into a real estate empire. He supposedly had the actual circumcision knife used on Hitlers micro-penis. The sale of that item is where the bulk of his empire came from.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 20, 2016 - 08:36pm PT
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That is exactly the story I heard
but wanted to be alittle more discreet
who cares how you make your millions, as long as it's millions
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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May 20, 2016 - 08:43pm PT
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
May 20, 2016 - 08:32pm PT
After reading "Night of the Long Knives" the Schmutzfink turned his swap meet finds of Nazi memorabilia into a real estate empire. He supposedly had the actual circumcision knife used on Hitlers micro-penis. The sale of that item is where the bulk of his empire came from.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 20, 2016 - 08:52pm PT
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For some nice J tree rock
repost of LST's Last Unicorn
some more good rock
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 20, 2016 - 09:07pm PT
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^^^Yum. What's that?
oh wait, me and Russ are going to first pummel Birchy, and then Locker
HaHAHahAHHAhaHAhHAhHaHahAHhAhaaaaaa!
Truth be told......
edit; HahaHahAHhahHAhHAhAhAHAHAHAHhaahAhaaaaa
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 20, 2016 - 09:14pm PT
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there's a lot of pummeling that needs to be done
are you on the list too BB?
Cosmic is..
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 20, 2016 - 09:19pm PT
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Probably. But not for the reasons they are. Ha!
i'm a pummeler, not a pummely......
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 20, 2016 - 09:30pm PT
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^^^
Hyperion Arch!
She's a real beauty, yes?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 20, 2016 - 09:41pm PT
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Yep.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 20, 2016 - 09:53pm PT
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... and why is this 2016 Reunion an unqualified success?
Why, because, like any bona fide adventure: it ain't over 'till it's over ...
I'm going to go pass out behind some trash cans now.
........................................................................
But first, not so fast DE, it is all about YOU,
At least for the time being, because Rich Sims is not likely to come to your aid anytime soon on this one ...
Would you please mark up this crag shot to indicate your historical line of ascent?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 21, 2016 - 07:22am PT
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E, 2006 reunion:
Roy, Erik, Provo, 1981:
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WBraun
climber
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May 21, 2016 - 07:24am PT
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Just see these two Americans.
They went to climb ice and only found running water ......
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 21, 2016 - 08:26am PT
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We went to climb running water...
But found mostly ice!
We made do ...
Americans: optimistic, improvisational, can-do!
Yep, we are doers!!!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 21, 2016 - 08:49am PT
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Roy, your photo of the Grossmont Community Hospital didn't show our line, but this one does. To the right of center is a stone wall arete next to a series of balconies. We climbed the obvious right hand arête and tied off the railings for pro. Dead vert. 5.8+ or so, it was a little pumpy on the lead. It was about 10 or 11 pm.
(edit) Where the hell is Rich Sims....when...you need him?
Grossmont Community Hospital FA with Rich... 5.8 4/84.
We bagged the FA AND got caught by security (well after). .... Then took the elevator down.
....they declared us too cool to bust. Prolly had Eric Clapton playing...
(edit)
I know Bob, WTF. We were lingering at the car and gloating on the
FA and gazing up at the "crag" when the security guard walked up, the rope was laying on the hood. We had to tell him all about it and he was totally cool.
we might have even had beers opened....well OK, now I'm stretching it.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 21, 2016 - 09:26am PT
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All.... I went over to Yafers last nite and had a few beers.... I got him to look around to see what he could see....
Supposedly there might be more... in a shoe box lost in a closet. We will see if that ever shows up, but I figured you boyz might know some of these people. All Josh lo-lifes from the 80's.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 21, 2016 - 09:33am PT
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This is fun.... we have some more....
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 21, 2016 - 09:43am PT
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Mike Guardino... A man who made his mark on the climbing world.
Goyle on Hi Noon
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 21, 2016 - 10:04am PT
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I think that is DE in the 3rd pic?
Betty Joe Yablonski?
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2016 - 10:15am PT
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Someone else would have started this thread or revitalized an older Bugger thread had I not,
but I had no idea the treasure trove stored when tapping in this time around.
A 'fluffering you go...
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 21, 2016 - 10:20am PT
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Bushman...Thanks for igniting this firestorm of nostalgia...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 21, 2016 - 10:25am PT
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Good question Tad!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 21, 2016 - 10:31am PT
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Rubidoux Bouldering contest!!!!! I missed out on these deals, cause I was having a different kind of fun.
I recognize Nay Gro....... anybody able to ID any of these folks?
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 21, 2016 - 10:54am PT
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My favorite. Mari always just flowed up the stone, smooth, effortless and with grace.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 21, 2016 - 12:42pm PT
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Annotation for untitled photo
TR on "High Noon" above Gunsmoke
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 21, 2016 - 01:03pm PT
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Thanks CF... I added for posterity sake.
In a 1,000 years, historians researching "The reason for the decline of civilization" will find this thread, get the names right and point to Russ and the SheepBuggers as the root cause of it.
Keep posting my brothers
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Friend
climber
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May 21, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
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toprope on High Noon is not a bad idea. Kind of do or die at the top.
Any sheep bugger tales of this Idylwild classic? Monster sandbag compared to other B1s in the Fry book.
As for me... well, I tried it for years. Then one January my wife split with another guy. I was full of anger, took it out in finger training and running 6-8 miles a day, and couldn't eat for weeks.
Post holed up to South ridge on Valentines day (!) and climbed this beauty 4x in a row.
Thanks honey.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 21, 2016 - 01:44pm PT
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Then one January my wife split with another guy. I was full of anger, took it out in finger training and running 6-8 miles a day, and couldn't eat for weeks.
Hahahahah... Good one Friend. I think lots of climbers have used the same motivation in the past.
I have...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 21, 2016 - 03:05pm PT
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Well done "Friend." South Ridge Arete?
Guy, I think I see Pat Brennan in the Guardino shot, But can't ID anyone else.
I was just reading the Galen Rowell Sierra FA thread and found this shot of Four Gables. It shows a pretty good view of an FA that Sibylle and I did in July 1978. The crack system starting just left of the bigger snow field to the right of the main pillar and going just left of the big gray intrusion 1/2 way up is "The Beagle" IV 5.9+ FA DE, SCH 13 pitches
Photo credit: Reilly!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 22, 2016 - 01:11pm PT
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Funny, I only did 7th Heaven once, 1977 I think, and it was with none other than the ubiquitous Dave Evans.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 22, 2016 - 01:47pm PT
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Friend, sounds like you could be a friend of mine;)
A de rigueur illicit ascent of Seventh Heaven on the Cohn Property. And sure as the sun rises, those dogs started barking up a storm
Ha! In the 90's i'd swear they sounded like tigers
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 22, 2016 - 05:24pm PT
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Friend
Skip Guerin did the FA of the South Ridge Arete
Mike Paul gave me a guided tour of the area way BITD
and most the info in the book
Mike Paul is the only one I ever saw do the thing, but I'm sure a couple other big names worked up it.
I never spent the time on it to do it.
I'm upgrading it to B1+
I did a covert FS of Seventh Heaven 78ish (after doing it before)
I was on and off the illegal property in 10 minutes
It was totally Zen, I'm pretty sure he talked to me
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 22, 2016 - 05:34pm PT
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Bob, I've got "7th Heaven" on the weekend of Oct.22-23, 1977. Was Randy Vogel there too?
I did my first 5.11 lead that weekend. It was "Jumping Jack Crack!!"
I had followed a few before that including Insomnia (TR), New Generations (Kevin Powell led), Short but Thin, Pterodactyl Terrace R. side, and Valhalla.
"Obscured By Clouds" was my first 5.11 9/74. with Matt Cox and E.
I remember watching Mike Graham on the FA with the clouds drifting through! Hmm...that was in 74 as well. We must have done an early ascent.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 22, 2016 - 06:23pm PT
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Yeah, Randy and somebody else did it right in front of us. We four route-poaching thugs walked over there together. I wanted to get off the climb so bad I started running up the second pitch and you had to remind me to put in some pro. Good times! I clearly recall taking note of your ultra-controlled edging technique when you led the first pitch.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 22, 2016 - 08:28pm PT
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it's really soothing hearing these stories:)
When you guy's weren't setting the standards, then you were stabilizing them!
i feel lucky to be so close to the roots of this phenomenon we know as climbing..
i'll never stop listening!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 22, 2016 - 09:09pm PT
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Don't buy the illusion. We've each hired these PR hacks. They are crafting all of our posts for us. They have to tone it down a lot, because the actual truth is so far-fetched nobody would believe the stories.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 23, 2016 - 10:39am PT
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Geez, Dee ee, at least you could give me credit for my pic! ;-)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 23, 2016 - 10:54am PT
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Oh sorry Reilly! I should have thought of that. I have been reprimanded before for the same egregious act.
My bad.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 23, 2016 - 10:57am PT
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 23, 2016 - 07:02pm PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 23, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
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The little lady gettin' 'er done, Spring '85, with the swank custom Gold Lamé chalkbag. Function meets fashion on the crags over yonder:
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 23, 2016 - 10:23pm PT
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Jocelyn sporting her best farmer tan, EBGB's, Spring '85
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 23, 2016 - 10:26pm PT
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Kerwin attempting a photobomb, Gunsmoke, '86. I pitched off the top of High Noon that day and didn't walk right for a month.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 23, 2016 - 10:27pm PT
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Oldschool Gun Development. Don't call her dude.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 23, 2016 - 10:34pm PT
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2am shroom-fueled mass assault on The Creeping Jew, on the way to the Chasm:
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 23, 2016 - 10:44pm PT
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Most Josh Trips involved plenty of this: mid-morning hangover nap, first generation Kinnaloa Sketchpads were a major lifestyle upgrade
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 24, 2016 - 02:07pm PT
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Mooney, funny you should mention "Fin Dome," 11,693.
In April 22-25 1977 Slim Jim Angione and The Reverend Jim Dutzi and I went in to that area over North Dragon Pass, 12,400+, class 3 (there may have been hallucinogens involved).
Our main objective was (the classic) Mt. Clarence King, 12,905. It was early season and all the lakes were still frozen over and mucho snow. We walked straight across that big lake at the bottom of North Dragon Pass.
Jim and I did a FA on Fin Dome the day before we climbed Clarence King, "Duck Feet" 5.8+. It was a rest day.
The next day the 3 of us climbed Clarence King (5.4).
We went out over Glen Pass, 11,943 and then Kearsarge Pass, 11,760. That was a big day.
BVB, love the shot of "The Creeping Jew," and any and all shots of Jocelyn.
Oh. ps. I like the little dog snoozing with you!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 24, 2016 - 02:17pm PT
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Creeping Jew/Chasm/Oven
Classic JT link-up
Bonus points for Sprinting Jew
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 24, 2016 - 05:05pm PT
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E, Future Games wall (?), 1984:
ChuckleMan, Semi-Tough:
Bruckman is bearing down so hard he could be making diamonds out of the stone!
*Edit made to reflect Semi-Tough.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 24, 2016 - 05:38pm PT
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Does anybody else remember the weekend evening when some motorheads from LA build a massive fire and used it to ignite a magnesium engine block in Hidden Valley Campground? Everything within a one-mile radius was lit up brighter than the noonday sun. The rangers from Lost Horse could see it and actually showed up after about 30 minutes. They took stock, decided it was ordinary no harm no foul HVC antics, and left. This was back in the late 70's when they never even bothered to pay little if any any attention whatsoever to HVC.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 24, 2016 - 05:41pm PT
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Roy,
That second shot of Mr. Bruckman is actually a different route in Real Hidden Valley: Semi Tough.
But, in in the fog of memory, it is all the same anyway. right?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 24, 2016 - 05:58pm PT
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Thanks Randy.
I'm not so sure that I took those pictures!
I'm still holding out the possibility they're not mine. IIRC, someone sent them to me claiming they were my photographs.
I have a vague memory of shooting my pals at Future Games when I was convalescing ...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 24, 2016 - 05:59pm PT
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Wow so true, underwater.
RV what route?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 24, 2016 - 06:06pm PT
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Hey Dave,
I like that you are starting to flesh out your timeline here in this thread, with dates and FAs.
At some point, maybe you could put together a timeline of your notable ascents?
I'm collecting these in preparation for oral histories down the line.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 24, 2016 - 06:32pm PT
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Classic E in a collared shirt. Arcadia prepster : )
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 24, 2016 - 06:41pm PT
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Roy, there is nothing I would love more than to flesh out my own glorious past, especially when my ego needs it most. I won't say why.
Maybe later.
I am headed up to the eastside to meet my Rockreation posse for cragging and my own selfish downhill skiing needs.
.......and I am bringing a fresh baked peach pie from the peaches grown in my backyard and baked by my Ex, Margy.....that we picked together this afternoon.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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May 24, 2016 - 06:47pm PT
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Hang in there Dave...it all passes by eventually.
Wish we were there for the pie.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 24, 2016 - 06:56pm PT
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Thanks Vick.
You are the greatest.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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May 24, 2016 - 07:18pm PT
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Dee Eee...If it makes you feel any better it's snowing up on the hill right this moment...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 24, 2016 - 07:33pm PT
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Well Johnny, if you mean Mammoth ...why....yes..it does.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 25, 2016 - 05:01am PT
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Dave,
A couple of weeks ago I left you a voicemail with my phone number.
Just get in touch with me at some point down the line and we can discuss your timeline.
Berg heil!
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 25, 2016 - 09:24am PT
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Movin' to the country I'm gonna eat a lot of peaches
Movin' to the country I'm gonna eat a lot of peaches
I'm movin to the country gonna eat a lot of peaches
Movin' to the country gonna eat a lot of peaches
I took a little nap where the roots all twist
Squished a rotten peach in my fist
And dreamed about you woman
I poked my finger down inside makin' a little room for a ant to hide
Nature's candy in my hand or can or a pie
Millions of peaches peaches for me
Millions of peaches peaches for free
Millions of peaches peaches for me
Millions of peaches peaches for free
(Presidents of the USA)
Fresh Peach pie and the east side of the Sierras, nice……, Good luck with your transition Dave.
Driver and I also went in over Dragon pass, thought we were doing a FA on Fin Dome, we did run into some old slings up high may have been your route. We had done Clarence King a couple weeks before, Sierras are truly awesome.
Keep the photos coming everyone….
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 25, 2016 - 10:40am PT
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Hang in there Dave, better days await.
Edit
Notice there is no chain link fence around the stamp mill. People actually came and enjoyed things without f*cking them up.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 25, 2016 - 11:48am PT
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Lost Horse Mine - Before it was closed to bikes ;-)
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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May 25, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
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The glory days of Mt. Biking...before it was banned most places. Bikes and equipment was, as the photos show, primitive.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 25, 2016 - 04:43pm PT
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 25, 2016 - 04:48pm PT
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One of the reasons I like this thread is because it's reminding me of all the small details that, added together, made climbing at Josh and Idyllwild in the 70's so vividly exotic and adventuresome. It just occurred to me that for us down in San Diego the drive from Escondido all the way to Suicide and Tahquitz was on two-lane blacktop roads. This was before I-15 was put in and the drive was all on old Highway 395, then through Hemet and up to Idyllwild. Temecula was a gas station and a burger joint; there was nothing between Temecula and Hemet except cows and a couple of fruit stands. If you were headed to Josh, it was 395 to Hemet to Banning before you were on an Interstate. Everything was new and different. The first time I drove through Yucca Valley it was a couple of gas stations and burger stands. I don't remember the particulars but for some reason it was just me and Alan Nelson's mom. Those were different times. Our group was, well, a different kinda bunch:
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 25, 2016 - 05:06pm PT
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Great pic Bob!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 25, 2016 - 05:30pm PT
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Really Bob! I only recognize 2 peeps in the shot. Who is that character in the hat back Center?
edit: No, make that 3 peeps.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 25, 2016 - 07:18pm PT
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Nice words there from you BVB!
In the end, it was all just millions of peaches for free ...
Thanks everyone, for a terrific thread!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 25, 2016 - 07:25pm PT
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I'm thinking that Alan Nelson wore that same hat and glasses until his last days... Great pic BVB
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 25, 2016 - 07:45pm PT
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Russell, you got that right.
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fosburg
climber
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May 25, 2016 - 08:32pm PT
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Damn
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 25, 2016 - 11:55pm PT
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Really Bob! I only recognize 2 peeps in the shot. Who is that character in the hat back Center?
The guy in the back with the hat is Pete Nelson, Alan's dad. To his left is Off White, Alan is easy enough to spot, and I'm the archetypal geek off to the right. Other great trivia from this photo: the women in the photo poached some of our (the guys) virginity; I climbed a bunch of peaks including a new route on Junction Peak with Alan's dad; and the guy who is standing to Pete Nelson's right is Mike Weegie, who died of a heart attack while attempting the Sierra Club RCS's crazy belay test. A lot of stuff happened on that seven-day trip. It's most enduring legacy is the Thanksgiving-In-Josh tradition that our little group -- which expands and contracts in phases -- has kept alive for the last 43 years. Some years we've been 35+ strong, other years it's been maybe ten or fifteen die-hards who always show up, come hell or high water.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 26, 2016 - 07:42pm PT
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That is so cool.
You and Al and off-white were the only ones I recognized.
I was a little iffy on Al because he almost looks like a girl in that photo.
And I was a little iffy on off-white just because
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2016 - 09:57am PT
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Bump for an early Tobin Story...
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2016 - 09:57am PT
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Tobin and his Acapulco Sunset on Intersection Rock
Of recollections dulled by living, and memories roughed by the drugged abuses of my youth, there are still some that work their way through the fog of time with near clarity, albeit a few minor inaccuracies, to recall once more here. Growing up with Tobin Sorenson was rarely dull and for most climbers and those afflicted by the adventure gene, there are many firsts along the way. Experimentation with disaster and mortality are the common thread of our experience. Though some considered Tobin as somewhat chaste and unworldly, this was not completely the case. He always had a gamblers heart and did partake of the herb, only once that I recall, at the behest of his friends before the bible and its work almost completely took hold of his life.
To my mind, Tobin never had a top rope from God, as this would bear out later on with his tragic accident on Mount Alberta. But his conviction, whether for climbing or for his faith in Christ, though he never made it his business to preach to me, was illustrated by his well known talent for commitment both on and off the rope, which was culminated by a short and momentously spectacular alpine climbing career. But this story is of a more innocent time, when the Stonemasters were in their formative beginnings, and soloing 5.11s and 5.12s at Joshua Tree was not yet de rigueur for the day.
It was circa early 1970s and there I was tagging along with my big brother, Tobin, and the Stonemasters again. We were eating and hanging at the site beneath the big boulder under the Blob, on the northwest end of the Hidden Valley loop at sunset. The usual communal meal had been donated to, and/or bummed and scarfed by the usual peanut butter and air-bread crowd, Tobin and I, Bullwinkle, et al. Pipe loads were being passed and new among the imbibers, the normally abstinent Tobin consented to a long and choking lung full of the Mexican bud du jour.
"I see green spots!" Tobin exclaimed after catching his breath. "Whoa, you better take it easy there, son," a seasoned member of the group cautioned. But Tobin announced to their chagrin that he was going to solo the North Overhang on Intersection rock and off he was like Dorothy exiting up the yellow brick road as if to find a wizard. I stepped out into the road and looked south towards the brooding slot at the top right corner of the formation already mostly in shadow, it's cap still bathed gold and red by the sunset as Tobin ran down the road towards it with just his sneakers and a chalk bag.
Worried friends started after him, one or two followed quick on his heels in the hope of dissuading him. "Let's solo Mike's Books and throw him a top rope!" someone yelled from the group. Free soloing easier routes were by then a common practice among the Stonemasters crowd, but in Tobin's altered state it was of some concern to me as well others in that instant and I followed along knowing that I could be of little help with my scant experience having only climbed roped on easier fifth class routes during that juncture.
5.9s were still out of my league and I had no idea that Tobin had probably soloed the North Overhang countless times at the end of many a hard day's climbing. By the time I got halfway to Intersection, Tobin was already up under the big overhang above the ledge at nearly a hundred feet above the ground, and reaching out left to the crack. I had only followed the easier traverse out right on a top rope before and I could not imagine that what he was doing was sound in his condition. I had never seen Tobin intoxicated except for the time when we were boys out to test a theory we had heard, and we got drunk by rapidly chugging large quantities of plain water. The intoxicating effect was minimal, but the after effect was not.
Up on Intersection, two or three other climbers were still working their way up to the ledge, and as I stood with a group from a distance staring up in silence, Tobin hung off the first jams moving his feet up the face on smears, and there he paused long enough for someone near me to say in a hushed voice, "C'mon Tobin." And then Tobin proceeded to smoothly climb up and left, he swiftly scrambled to the top, and he turned and faced the sunset in the fading light. As Tobin ran off east to descend Mike's Books, a climber with rope in tow was just making his way up from that direction, obviously too late to give Tobin any assistance. The climber continued over to the top of North Overhang, if for nothing but to offer a rope to the stragglers below. Back at where we were, Tobin ran up to us in the dwindling light and between deep breaths asked, "What's next?" and not waiting for an answer, he headed off towards another formation.
If this tale is off by more than a few characters or sentences, it might serve to bring some of Tobin's friends out of the woodwork and I would happily rewrite it again. For what is writing if not crossed eyes at midnight and a headache at four am, if it serves to bring to light a small truth, or a chuckle to the writer at the very least.
-Tim Sorenson
05/29/2016
Edit; Afterword;
It was several years since that day in Joshua Tree and a year or more after Tobin died before I climbed out under that overhang, and contemplated doing what he and so many others had done before. My climbing years were at their peak in the early '80s and I found myself soloing every so often, but only on crack climbs with good jams and face climbs with solid holds. On this particular day I had been soloing with a group of regulars in the afternoon around the campground. After soloing the Eye, Geronimo, and Double Cross, we headed over to Overhang Bypass on Intersection. It was at that point a few of us decided to take the North Overhang option. I had led it several times by then and the crux had become comfortable and easy to me with a rope. But here I was at dusk, on a day not unlike that day I first saw Tobin solo it.
As my friends disappeared above me, I looked forebodingly at the crux moves around that corner onto the open face and longed for the easy option out to the right again. But my ego got the best of me and I took the jam and pulled around left with my feet on friction. As I held myself in with one good jam, I trusted my feet long enough to reach for the next good jam, and I knew for certain in that moment that I would never climb like my brother. I felt safer again higher up, but would never solo the route again after that, nor any other where I felt so insecure or in such a predicament.
I never mentioned it to anyone that day, how I felt vulnerable, exposed, mortal, and I wasn't likely to. On other solos I did during those years of equal or more danger, I can only say, I must have just put the relative danger out of my mind. I may have only been soloing easy routes by the standards of the day, but hard 5.10 was almost my limit while climbing with a rope. I really had no business soloing some of the things I did.
I don't know how Tobin had the courage to pull off the things he did during his climbing career except to say, it was in his nature and his outlook. He put everything he had into climbing, as if it was expected. That was the major difference between him and me. I was only infatuated with climbing, but he was completely enraptured.
-TSS
05/29/2016
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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May 29, 2016 - 02:27pm PT
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Thanks Tim. Your piece is another example of the value of this forum.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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May 29, 2016 - 08:15pm PT
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Thanks much Tim, for this last story and for starting and hosting the thread!
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2016 - 09:38pm PT
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Baaaaaaaaaaaack at you Roy, you're welcome, and thank you for all your great stories and contributions. To yourself, Craig, Dee, Russ, Vicky, and to so many others who have really kept this thread alive. I will try to dredge up a few more distant memories to post from time to time, whatever I can shake out of the old brain pan and such as time from work will allow. The thread will be here for the Buggerers or any others who care to post, troll, or enthrall.
I really would have liked that honorary Sheep Buggerer membership though, but on second thought, I'm afraid to find out what that initiation process actually might be.
Cheers for now,
-bushman
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 30, 2016 - 11:34pm PT
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just look'in in here to try and fill some void..
Thanks Bushy!
JT is taking on some changes lately.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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May 31, 2016 - 03:27am PT
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Good one Bushman, your brother continues to inspire every life he touched
But back at the Munument, yessirreeee, those velco-gloved sheepbugggererzz cut a pretty wide swath up thar in the Monument, where men were men and the sheep were inseminated. Shucks, us Scumbags, the forsaken stepchildren of the SoCal scene, hell we was just dinkin' around on our little backyard pebbles, hoping to sit at the cool kid's table someday, and take on summa those thar sandbox sandbags with our big boy pants draped around our knees and a rack of #10 hexes and Eiger ovals scored at the Santee swap meet...
And although the fame and glory and women and B-loop campsites doggedly eluded us in the Monzonite Crucible, for some reason all the manga octopus porn cartoon fans just loved us in Japan! Ho Sai Gai!!
Hellooooooo Kitty!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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May 31, 2016 - 06:17pm PT
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One of my problems about story telling was the lack of notable epics
You got to have epics to spin a good tale about
I never had a single un-planned bivy
I was never rescued or did a rescue,
nor watched some super death epic
It was a Zen thing, no epics
just do it and move on to the next thing to do
The Zen Gods looked favorably upon this young Grasshopper
Many a free solo was on the guidance of the Zen Gods assuring a spiritual experience if you go for it, and that's what it was all about.
I’m sure most of the rest of the Sheep Buggers were all tuned into to the same cloud of Zen angels looking over us.
But I do have this one nOOb lame ass epic at Suicide Rock in 1977, I was 18
Spencer Lennard was hot for cracks after a season in the Valley
He had done the Orangutan Arch, so he really wanted to do Wet Dreams which was one of the hardest cracks at the time.
It looked a little over my head at the time, but what the hell, I'll get a TR, right? What could go wrong?
I lead the Flower, and set up a hanging belay above the tree.
Spencer leads it flawlessly, and now it’s my turn.
Right off the bat I’m having problems, Spencer yells down, “use your left foot, wedge it in toe down!!” or was it "toe up"
“I’m trying!!, my foot doesn’t want to wedge that way..”
I somehow wiggle to the near the end of the crack and all of a sudden find that my elbow has dropped into a perfect deep slot that instantly wedged my elbow .. I try to pull it out, I try again,…and again, oh f*#k, my elbow is really stuck.
But since the climb is a traverse, I can’t take tension, I can’t do anything but hang off my stuck elbow on an overhanging wall with the only foot holds being the damn crack I can't get my foot wedged in..
It would have been less of an epic if Ricky Accomazzo wasn’t looking on, since he came upon my mini epic while he was descending from some other route. He yelled encouragements “pull it out!”
Great, now Ricky has to see how lame I am, with my F-ing stuck elbow.
After about 10 minutes, I’m able to muster the super powers needed to do a one arm with my good arm on some sloper so I can extract the lodged appendage.
I continued on to the next 5.11+ moves with some major problems, some stoppers that were practically fixed, which required me hanging some more.
I finally topped out with some sore humility. I wrote it down as an aided ascent.
I did it years later with E, no stuck elbow but still had problems with the toe wedge. Not on my top 10 list.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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May 31, 2016 - 07:19pm PT
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Good stuff Dr. F!
Saw a guy get his helmet stuck in that wide chimney thing to the right of the weeping wall... David? Goliath? Whatevs... Helmet stuck (in the before helmets on everyone era) in front of our crew... well, an elbow is way more noble. I'm thinking he slid down a ways and got his head wedged. He was up there a while.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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May 31, 2016 - 09:27pm PT
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PRICELESS.
Tim's story about the N. Overhang and then Mr. F on Wet Dreams.
I just got back from 6 days skiing, climbing, hiking and soaking on the east side near Mammoth.
Had a super great day climbing with 2 young super psyched young women from our gym, Rockreation, crazy, too much fun. I love those girls, Laura and Ann.
Ann
Laura
These young women are the real deal.
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Friend
climber
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LMAO loving these stories.
Thanks for bumping that photo Craig. That was a memorable day. Darshan managed to redpoint Etude and was super psyched. The vibes were good, I finally got up the nerve to try Wet Dreams and flashed it. We were both over the moon. Kia Ravanfar took that shot.
Here is a different angle, some years later. You can't really see the leader from the belay but it's a great one to watch from above. Steve Strong getting ready to go anaerobic.. photo by me.
Edit: Wet Dreams was established by Tobin Sorenson and John Bachar. I know Tim S. is reading this thread. Part of the intimidation of the route was knowing those two guys put it up. Bachar was posting on ST at the time and I wanted to email him to see if he remembered anything from doing the FA. But I thought, who am I to email Bachar. Then he fell a few years later. I always regretted not sending that email. RIP fallen heroes
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Well put oh Mighty Thor...especially the edit.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Where were you climbing with those girls Dave? Looks really cool!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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From Mt. Project
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Tom, we went to Cardinal Lodge Pinnacle and the lower Owen's River Gorge.
They dragged my ass up some cool stuff!
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Great recollection Craig. Love Wet Dreams which was certainly one of our first anaerobic threshold routes at Suicide.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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On another trip to Suicide in 77, Spencer and I went to do Flakes of Wrath as a warm up. It’s quite a hump from Costa Mesa. Spencer starts out on the lead .. and can’t figure out the cruxxy moves at the bottom to get into the Flakes. It’s all slippery and awkward.
After it looks like he won’t be able to figure it out, I yell over “check out the crack to the left!, we can do a FA, maybe now or never.”
He launches off into the unknown and it’s like G-d split that flake with diamonds,
I follow and commend the change in plans, Johnny Quest it is.
Photos from Mt. Project
We went back the next weekend and I led the crack, and then we put up a 2nd pitch with a bolt.
Tom Smith?
VVV
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209er
Social climber
Oakdale
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A morning after. Moon, The Ugliest Girl in the World [?], and Spewell, camp cook.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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The words “Stahl Brothers” have little significance other than for a small select crew of Southern California Locals, which makes it seem odd that people still want to be referred to as “Honorary Stahl Bros”.
The original Stahl Bros; Rob and Dave were climbing at an early age at Josh in the 70s with John Wolfe. They did some FAs and had years of experience. I met them in 1980 when I moved to Isla Vista for a couple years at UCSB.
They had corralled all the real climbers in Santa Barbara area at the time into the tribe “Stahl Bros” which consisted of Rob and Dave Stahl, Todd Battey, Bob Robach, Tom Burke, Paul Binding, and Andy Cratter. There were some tag along girl friends at the time that were referred to as Stahl sisters, then they became Stahl wives.
And then we had our Den Mother, Mona Stahl, and she would gladly drive us the crags in her V Dub Van to anywhere we wanted to go when we had time free from college. We made every Josh New Year and a couple trips to the Valley, Needles, and then some weeks in Tuolumne during the summer for many years straight.
It was good times.
This story is a prelim into the next tale on the discovery of climbing on Queen Mt.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Poodle Smasher
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Queen Mountain
One cold winter weekend, us Stahl Bros decided we should backpack out to the farthest reaches of the known Wonderland, and explore it for new routes.
We hiked through many new areas at the time, past the area that later produced “Poaching Bighorns”
and decided to bivy at the base of what’s now called “Smashing Poodles”.
That planned bivy night in the Wonderland turned sour after we went to sleep and it started raining, and then hailing.
I had a bivy sac, so I just pulled the top over my head, and didn’t care what happened. I woke up with a half an inch of sleet covering me. Some of the other Stahl Bros weren’t so well prepared, and got a little exposure, so we bailed quickly to Echadadas.
We all talked about how much we wanted to go back and work these great routes we just found.
The story about our hope to go back and do the “Poodle Smasher” will have to wait for another day.
While we were on our exploratory tour, we looked eastward up the obvious canyon leading up into Queen Mt. from the middle of the Wonderland. On the Canyon walls there were routes, and all the way up it looked like there was good rock, maybe there’s good rock up there on that high plateau, it sure looks good.
I’m not sure how long it took after that year, but we all wanted to go all the way up that canyon. So we made plans and went at it as an exploration hike.. It didn’t take long to get passed our old bivy spot after finding a short cut by going high from Uncle Willi’s along the base of Queen Mt. There were some big boulders in the major canyon past the poodle area that we found some pictographs, so we checked them out.
And then as planned, we went straight up the canyon eastward into the bowels of Queen Mt. At the top of the canyon, there was a Native Indian cave with matates, pottery shards and pictographs. There is another Indian cave up to the North from this cave. Once we got on the plateau we hiked up the stream bed into the central valley where there are now over a hundred routes.
We worked some great boulder problems that day, that we called the “Milks”, and searched the area for more Indian caves that never materialized. Dave Stahl found this completely flawless opalescent chalcedony arrowhead, and he was about to throw it into the bushes for what he called "safe keeping"… I freak out when I see it and yell stopppppp, and beg him to let me take some photos of it for safe keeping and then we'll throw it in the bushes. He questions my credentials but says what the hell, here you go.
It’s for sure my best arrowhead photo, I'll have to post it.
Once on top of the Queen Mt. plateau, we knew the fastest way back to the cars was straight South, so we charged down the southern scree slopes of Queen Mt. right back to Uncle Willies in what seemed like minutes. The next day we went up, from the Queen Mt. road.
We made it back up to the same area in 41 minutes, so hence it was the 41 minute dome.
The next weekend I explored the area 41 minutes past the 41 minute dome and found the Bloodline crags, some more Indian caves and some pottery shards. It was the mid 80s Golden Age of Josh exploration!!
photos from Mt. Project
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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My mom befriended many a dirt bag over the years, feeding many a complete Thanksgiving dinner in Hidden Valley. She made many trips to Nepal with my step dad John, and bagged some good trekking peaks.
Core StahlBros for sure
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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That's an awesome Queen Mountain story, Craig.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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I was checking out my old climbing notes about the Johnny Quest FA, it was 1977, not what the guidebook reports; 1979.
And after me and Spencer did Johnny Quest, we did Valhalla, and then I had the "Wet Dreams" epic.
The guidebook's comment on Wet Dreams is "more like a nightmare" which sounds about right.
Found some more good info, more stories to be written soon
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Crag...I did Johnny Quest in 77 or 78 so what you said about the 79 first ascent makes sense...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Do you see what I see?
Last Monday night from the Shepard's hot springs near Mammoth.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Looks like a sheep sunset...How's the new male escort service going..?
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Great story Craig, awesome pictures and nice Daisy Dukes, Stahlbro
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Not many peeps can rock the white daisy dukes. My bother will probably give me a good ration for posting that, but hey, what are brothers for?
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Thanks ekat. I will let him know. I think they ripped when he made the left hand reach ;-)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Huh. Is that Woodpecker Crack or Tar And Feathers or whatever they call it? Looks familiar but not quite steep enough
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Stahlbro
Is that him on the left in your avatar photo? The gams look similar
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Over,
Nope, that is me. Family resemblance I guess.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Buggery bump.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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I guess I could brag more about my ex.
Margy was quite an accomplished mtn. biker as well as climber. She was California State Champion in Downhill in 1984 in the 25-30 age class.
Here she is on the Lower Rock Creek with Scout in hot pursuit.
She cut her teeth riding with "The Rads" on the Sierra singletrack and in Laguna Beach.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Just found this shot of Margy and her then best friend Kelly Carignan on From Bad Traverse (Tahquitz) in 1984. Kelly was part of the buggerer scene for quite awhile after she hooked up with Dave Tapes (Wonderly). Later, after they broke up she disappeared to Colorado with Bobby Rotert.....and worked at.....
This may have been their first time up Tahquitz.
"The definition of cute."
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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She worked at Neptune's, then Trango, where they named a carabiner after her!
Last I spoke to Kelly, she was re-schooling for a "real" job. A capable person, for sure.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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After Waugh and I did Wet Dreams we watched the Troll lead it. He never did fit himself into the slot and had to work way harder than us little guys to do that route. Quite a memorable route.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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From Bad Traverse
from bad to worse
I never got it until the other thread appeared today
Me and Kelly had boy/girl friend try outs
It never took
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Yes, it is a real route. edit: quick edit Craig!.......
There is a picture of the 3 of us on it in 1984 just up thread. Dude.
We went up there because I needed to check it off. The photo shows us in the act of checking it off.
Oh, thanks Tar, I was trying to remember Trango. I got some of their ice screw clips from Kelly while she was there. After that she went to a female oriented clothing company....named....?
She and I would catch up at "the show" every year.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Maybe Stoneware Designs, acquired by Trango in 2001, originally started by Sari Nichols in 2006?
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Roy, I think that is it.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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This thread needs more slander.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jul 22, 2016 - 03:20pm PT
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Bump for more slander.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2016 - 11:52am PT
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In Bolder Days/a climbing poem
In bolder days
When I was a lad
I started climbing
When belays were bad
Two bolts or a stopper
Would make us feel glad
But a rusty old pin
Was sketchy and sad
A rope 'round the back
Was a solid bet
And the Sticht Plate
Was better yet
But the limey's belay
'Round the back of the neck
The first time I saw it
I thought "What the heck!"
Sometimes when I stood
At the base in my boots
Whether a big wall
Or the steep free routes
My stomach in knots
As the butterflies grew
And I feared the worst
Like we sometimes do
And late at night
In the long bivouac
My nerves wouldn't rest
As I turned in the sack
But I steeled myself
Before the dawn
That the light of day
Would help me move on
Some faces were grand
With no words for the view
Others grim you know
And reeked of guano
There were climbs that took
Everything that we had
With our spirits low
When the weather looked bad
And once in awhile
We didn't get very far
Or injured ourselves
Too far from the car
And others times
It was no cigar
As we retreated to
The nearest bar
All the climbing years
Were for better or worse
Adventures that I
Could never rehearse
Like the time cutting loose
'Neath the Molar Traverse
As I spiraled about
With a colorful curse
Once high on the Shield
My partner appeared
Not once but three times
It was rather of absurd
As he fell past the bivouac
With nary a word
And came to a stop
Like a jangling bird
And the topping out
After days on a wall
When gravity left us
Was the strangest of all
As our elation was tempered
By the journey's near end
Though a treacherous descent
Might be 'round the bend
In bolder days
When I was a lad
We often went climbing
When the anchors were bad
When a hex or a stopper
Would make us feel glad
Lest a rusty old pin
Was all that we had
-bushman
07/24/2016
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jul 24, 2016 - 12:14pm PT
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^^^Pnicest
ha.
seriously tho...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 24, 2016 - 04:15pm PT
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Tim, that was great.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jul 24, 2016 - 05:57pm PT
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You have outdone yourself. Wonderful.
Glad you survived to tell the tales. :0(
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Jul 24, 2016 - 06:05pm PT
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I have a question for Craig Fry: Probably just before your rise to head of the Buggerers, there is a tale of your stealing Largos down jacket... then took it on a wall (you tried to climb a wall???) and spilled tuna juice and whatnot all over it. The theft went unknown until pics of you in the jacket showed up at a Randy Vogel slide show.
Elaborate please...
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jul 24, 2016 - 06:08pm PT
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and jesus wept;(
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 24, 2016 - 07:55pm PT
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Oh, *this* thread again? What a great bump. I got more sh#t needs spewin' is all I gotta say about that.
Craig WHO?!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 24, 2016 - 08:08pm PT
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Pig Pen, 2a.m., no chalk, blown-out NPS Ranger hiking boots, Gold Toe Support Hose, Chivas 12 by the barrel. Cause that's just how Scumbags roll, Holmes.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Jul 24, 2016 - 08:18pm PT
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courage is never holstered by a clock
those suspenders are tight!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Jul 24, 2016 - 09:01pm PT
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Legendary...unprecedented...No man alive...!!!
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Jul 30, 2016 - 08:39pm PT
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Bob........ so good.
.....and Jeff. So cool. That's the kinda' thing might git me to puff.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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After all the talk about the jacket, I guess I need to set the record straight
We were in the M&M van doing the usual slander sesh (1979) with the ever present (See above post) fun bag. But it's getting cold, and I look over and Largo has this big bag of jackets, so I grab this nice down jacket out of the bag and tell him that I need to use it for a couple hours.
He's like wooo nelly there, that's my new sweet powder puff jacket I just got from a sponsor.
I'm like "Sit Down!!"
"I just need the F-ing jacket for a couple hours, so hand it over short stuff", "I'll make your sponsors proud!"
"Look, It's way too big anyway, I look like the Michelin man.!"
Well I forgot to give the jacket back at the end of the day, and the very next weekend, me and Mike L. were doing an early ascent of "The Shield". So the jacket was perfect, light, warm, big...
So on the wall
Mike is leading some pitch way up there, and he comes whipping off w/o notice,.. I'm preoccupied with other things, one thing was a can of tuna
after the can split all over me, I picked up all the chunks and put them in my pocket, I poured the rest the tuna nectar left over on the chunks for flavor.
I led the next pitch with a can of tuna in one pocket and a can of peaches in the other, I would just take a dab here and there between placements.
So later we see these photos of us on the thang, and Largo is like WTF!!!!
"That's my F-ing Jacket!!! Where is it?"
Do you really want it back dude, it's kinda dirty still.
He's like "Dude, I need that jacket for my upcoming season in the Alps!"
Well fine, here ya go, you clean it.
Then Largo has the temerity to ask "what about the gloves that were in the pockets of the jacket, where did they go?"
I'm like, "who do ya think I'm am, the Goodwill?"
(I trashed those gloves long ago)
Good luck in the Alps!!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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I will await Largo's request for an apology
and offer full reciprocity
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2016 - 05:10am PT
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^^^^^^^^^^
That's funny, Craig...
How's that working for you?
The coyotes just sounded, once more at 4:45 am as usual.
Like them with all or some humility I bring this offering;
Gored on Buzzard's Peak
As we walked
we sang a favorite song
That day we set out
In a throng
It was Tobin, Larry
And the Kilmer Boys
Who'd allowed me then
To tag along
We were all of nine
To thirteen in years
On Buzzard's Peak
Our hearts were set
Hiking through
Rural suburban streets
"Norwegian Wood"
Was our favorite yet
After miles uphill
By way of brambles
We clawed our way
Up to the peak
And ate our lunch
Like hungry puppies
By then
The legs were feeling weak
On the way back down
There stood a cow
Solitary, ordinary
Chewing on her cud
And strangely enough
I took off running
I'd seen plenty of cows before
Oddly I was spooked but good
As I sprinted down the hill
The cow enlarged
Looming o'er to trample me
I cried "It's a bull, run!"
The guys all started cracking up
The beast had never budged
They said "It's just a cow!"
They laughed and had their fun
"Oh"
I said Sheepishly
As tears ran down
My freckled cheeks
We got home at sunset
All tired and scratched up
But Tobin and the Kilmer boys
Teased me about it for weeks
"It's a bull, run!"
"No, It's just a stupid cow, Tim!
It hasn't moved an inch!"
When things got tense
Or boring, Tobin quipped
"It's a Bull, no it's just a cow, Tim"
And broke the mood
In a pinch
When I was 'gored' on
Buzzard's Peak
And thought so cruel
The world could be
I knew nothing yet
Of cruelty
Or what suffering
I was still to see
All those years ago
When we were boys
We had the whole world up ahead
But now I laugh sometimes
Though life can be a bull
It's true, other times
"It's just a cow"
So placid like the bovine
-bushman
08/07/2016
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Actually
Since Largo seems to be off climbing threads
I have to come clean
The roles were completely reversed.
It was My Jacket that Largo borrowed!
With full on tuna and peach detritus attached when returned
Then the photos surfaced and heatedly debated!
I may have done some embellishing "Largo style" for added entertainment value.
The Fish was trolling me about the jacket, so I went with his prod for fun.
The phrase "Who do you think I am, the Goodwill" was straight from his mouth.
and, I don't not expect full reciprocity
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2016 - 07:41am PT
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Emphasis on 'don't not'
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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I'm hearing the jacket fit Long like something a speed skater would wear.
But he used it anyway.... Ho man!
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Sep 27, 2016 - 09:03am PT
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Sounds like Satan's Son has resurrected
Apparently he is Pure Evil and Lies about everything
What other lies can you post about me SS
Your dark side loves to jump on the bandwagon of lies, doesn't it
me and Cosmic have a deal, he lies about me, and I post him as SS
He loves it, he said to Bring it ON!
vvvvv
it saddens me that people have to lie about me to feel better
You lie, you lose
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Sep 27, 2016 - 10:41am PT
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It saddens me that our once fearless leader Craig is now at this level. Oh how the mighty have fallen.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 28, 2016 - 02:48pm PT
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Important dispatch from behind The Orange Curtain!
Craig Fry, garden party ready, pulling down at his Adams Street bridge glue-on climbing area:
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Nov 28, 2016 - 02:59pm PT
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is there another stair case like that around Santa Monica?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Apr 11, 2017 - 12:55pm PT
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Bump for buggerery.
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2017 - 09:58pm PT
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Sheepshape and Skunksplat
Sheep dip for breakfast
Sheep dip for you
Sheep dip's my favorite
Flea free also too
My dogs roll in sheep sh#t
Sheep roll in it too
If you roll in that sheep sh#t
They'll always love you
My cats love them critters
Especially when dead
In the mornings I wake up
And find them in bed
O de dead skunk
O de pee yew
O de skunk's carcass
Go fetch, Pepe too
If you love dead varmints
And livestock manure
I'll know how to find you
By your nauseating allure
Sheep sh#t and cow dung
Dead skunks and fresh fur
It's always for breakfast
Of that we'll make sure
-sheepman
04/12/2017
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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Apr 14, 2017 - 07:19am PT
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Baa baa baa
Good to hear from you Bushman. Always enjoy the poems.
Thinking about Tobin on this Good Friday morning. Enjoy Easter with your family. Much Aloha from a real bugger : o )
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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Apr 14, 2017 - 07:27am PT
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BTW Recently spent time with the Rubber Maiden and the wife watching footage off beta from BITD. It was quite strange watching the young Creature amongst the herd. The Driver attempting to fire many times and Mari making it look like a cake walk...good times.
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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Apr 14, 2017 - 07:36am PT
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Aloha Friday! Enjoy the long weekend.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 16, 2017 - 03:25am PT
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? Hmm?
on a some what obscure thread about poodles,
the Reason for putting the word 'poodle' in the names' of climbs;
including
The Story!
( Flufffy -needs a leash , Fluffy Gone ! I told you so Fluffy needed a leash),
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2966425/What-the-hell-is-it-with-j-tree-and-poodles
That aside . . . .
Some pearls dropped that need to be here :
bvb,
Social climber
flagstaff arizona,, Apr 16, 2017 - 01:52am PT
Yeah Randy, the social and cultural landscape that flourished in Josh from the early 70's to the mid-80's was an apex of SoCal climbing culture -- it was striking and vibrant in every respect, from the the striking level of boldness and vision and creativity and expertise in the climbing and bouldering, to the barely-in-control party scene that hummed during the week and then wildly spiked on the weekends, and the sheer scope and complexity of the loosely interwoven tribes and clans and cliques that taken together represented an astonishing concentration of climbing talent -- somebody should write a book, because it was a brief, intense, and truly unique flash that came and went so fast that it took some scenesters years to figure out that the bloom had fallen from the flower. I'm just now getting some perspective, given that 30 years or so have passed by the by. It was definately a one-time event, and if you were there you should consider yourself lucky. It was like a private Burning Man for climbers that lasted for ten straight years. Not bad for a sandbox full of chossy pebbles and blobs of petrified oatmeal.
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Craig Fry
Trad climber
So Cal.
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Apr 16, 2017 - 09:29am PT
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Amen Brother
It was the Golden Years
Abundant FAa, abundant friends and over the top fun and memories
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 12, 2017 - 01:40pm PT
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^^^ That photo of the Wolfe guide brought back so many memories I went to amazon and ordered one used. I threw my Wolfe guide away when Vogel's purple guide came out. Won't be the same as mine, but what the hey.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Aug 12, 2017 - 04:26pm PT
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Sewelly say:
I was the first Bugger to garner media attention
You were a Joe Boy. Anything more is aspirational and revisionist.
Plus, we all know that is a picture of Ron Fawcett. A good pic though, and a personal favorite!
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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The Manx
Social climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Mar 29, 2019 - 02:19pm PT
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Wow. Hello everyone! I watched free solo yesterday, saw john bachar had died back in '09 and looked around the memorial page. Got a bit nostalgic and found this thread. Not sure anyone will see it of course but shout outs to my high school era friends! Moonie, Fish, Driver, Veee, Eeee, Sewellymon, and more I'm sure.
So they named some boulders after me huh? I think Mr. Rubbernutz may have mentioned it sometime back but I'm unsure. My memory comes and goes and have been diagnosed with a rare condition that has early onset Alzheimer's as a possiblity so I got that to look foraward to!
If anybody is wondering I am married to my second wife for 19 years now and we have 2 beautiful daughters aged 11 & 16. Moved to Australia in 2003 and absolutely love it here. I do not climb anymore but I also don't drink anymore. Not that the two are related, well they were for me way back when, heh.
I may have to dig out some old photos and the flatbed scanner and share them here, we'll see. It's been a trip seeing and reading in here so I'll give back if I can.
Cheers,
Manx
Edit: Dave Evans..... Just saw Washoe and more memories came flooding back. I have had the pleasure of seeing his relatives work a herd of real sheep here and I always think of your great dog. Cheers mate!
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The Manx
Social climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Mar 29, 2019 - 04:33pm PT
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Holy crap, some things never change! The sh#t talking, lmao. I just paused after the first 400 posts here and come back to the end to set some folks straight! I only dropped you one time Muss at Taquitz(sp)! But I did cop an earful from Doug about a crappy belay stance he thought I had on some climb we did out of Mammoth one time. I was bomber, he never fell so it didn't get tested anyway. And what's this Kentucky stuff? 400 lbs?! Postcards? I lived in Virginia for a spell after my first marriage broke up. Whenever I'm in LA I try to look folks up, I never hated anyone!
And Jeff, those little shacks in the canyon were the pits! I remember"wallpapering" over holes in the wall with the funny section of the newspaper. Also a favourite budget gift wrap choice of mine at the time.
I will find photos eventually but it's still early and everyone is asleep. No doubt I will stumble across more wrongs to be righted as well. But seriously, it's great to see this. I look forward to reading on.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Mar 29, 2019 - 05:08pm PT
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^^^^
Yeah, unreal huh? Those guys are still trying to hang all that sh#t talking onto me... I was the quiet one... Craig Fry was the trouble maker and major sh#t talker.
Somewhere Roy talks about the incident over on Suicide... he fessed to feeding you pipeloads while I whipped... It was a long one!
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The Manx
Social climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Mar 29, 2019 - 08:37pm PT
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Random pic of Russ from bitd. That is Taquitz in the background I think??? This was most likely before I dropped him. And while I have apologized many times in the past I will do so again now because even though I maintain it only happened once, that is once too many. Sorry Russ, glad I didn't kill you. :-D
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The Manx
Social climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Mar 29, 2019 - 08:53pm PT
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Russ and I took a couple of days, hiked to some lake a few hours from the main camping in Tuolumne, did some fishing and mingled with the locals. Come to think of it, this is a different bear from a different time but we did run into a bear on that brief trip so I'll leave the pics up. As I recall we spent some considerable time up in trees watching the bear make it's way around the lake as light faded. Russ was armed with firecrackers that were later used on a pesky marmot. The bear never did bother us again and when asked later by a ranger hiking up as we were heading down if we heard any gun shots earlier we of course said no sir.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Mar 29, 2019 - 09:01pm PT
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Hahaha! So good! Bravo Manxy
That fish is a monster! Could feed a family of 8!
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The Manx
Social climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Mar 29, 2019 - 10:34pm PT
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I'm am pretty sure this is Fishy looking for the exact spot where I will attempt to murder him, ha!
Just a couple of fools getting ready for the day.
I'm fairly certain this is Frerricks feeding rope to the Pieman in Tuolumne. Can anyone confirm?
No doubt who this stud is.
This is a Poloroid! Not exactly sure where in the monument this is though.
Hidden guns at work, stand clear please. :D
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Mar 29, 2019 - 10:40pm PT
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Mega!!
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The Manx
Social climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Mar 29, 2019 - 11:02pm PT
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On to Moonie..,
Sometime in late summer '82 Doug and I decided to do the Salathé wall. My memory, as bad as it is, I can't recall 8f it was before or after doing the Nose with the Driver. Someone may recall but no matter, I had the wherewithal to note on the back of the photos for this excursion but not the other. Anyway, route decided, Doug thought 8t best to do a warm-up climb to get in shape for it. Of course I just sheeped up and said sure moonie, whatever you like. So we set off to do Clyde Minaret.
Hiked in one day and camped near a small lake near the base. Up before the sun and off we went. I don't remember it being particularly difficult, I just remember being scolded about one belay he didn't think I did well enough. Not enough pro in in the event of a fall and we'd both tumble to the bottom or some such nonsense. I reckon it was fine and since I'm here telling the tale I also reckon the scales on the matter tip in my favour. In any event we made it to the top, scrambled back to base camp just as it was getting dark again and hiked out the next day.
The next week or so and we did the Salathé. I'll only post a couple of photos so as not to bore anyone. It's a good bet that most here have done it and seen hundreds of photos by now so here's mine......
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 30, 2019 - 06:02am PT
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Manx for the winning~schwimmingz & it was post number 1234 !!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Mar 30, 2019 - 09:57am PT
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Welcome to the forum, Kent!
You should definitely post more pictures of the Salathe. It doesn't matter if we've seen it before or how many times, we want to see your photos.
As to the facts and sequencing of the Sundance belay escape maneuver: Kent, I had been feeding you pipe loads and sips of Budweiser while you were paying out the rope over easier terrain. This was prior to Russ taking a slip higher up (at or near the crux), not exactly during. I know this because I was watching him when he fell. I looked to my left and saw that the rope was free from your hands and you were looking side to side as the rope was whizzing around your waist – wondering what had happened. The Fish grabbed the rope and saved himself!
So yeah, it happened twice. We were all kids once.
Good on you for moving to Australia and making a life there. Sounds like your memories are pretty good thus far, let's hope you keep that prognosis at bay as long as possible!
– Roy
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Mar 30, 2019 - 10:09am PT
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^^^^^^
Haha! Budweiser too!! You dudes are savages!
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The Manx
Social climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Mar 30, 2019 - 07:47pm PT
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I will take your, and Fishes, word for it Roy. I remember once but I also remember being just me and him. I'll apologize once more and I'll move on to the Driver.
I am fairly certain we did the nose before the Salathé making it my first big wall as I'm certain a forced 2day event on Washington column doesn't qualify as such. While I made notes on picture backs of pitches and such I neglected to put a date. I remember calling my mom beforehand while in retrospect the call afterwards might have added years to her life or at the least more sleep to her nights inbetween. This recollection also lends towards it being a first because I have no memory of ever doing it again.
I remember Russ calling my mom a hypochondriac on more than a few occasions but we were very close until she passed shortly after my move down under. She sewed blue foam mat material to the inside leg sections of my harness as I had found it to be somewhat uncomfortable when practicing with the thing. It did make a difference in my comfort level to be sure.
The climb.... We were met with moisture to some degree every day as I recall but nothing too bad save for the first day when we decided to bivvy in dolt hole. Well I was more in than out with that role reversed for Greg.
The rest was mostly uneventful except for one standout moment. I don't remember the day or the pitch but Greg was cleaning and he was having a helluva time getting one piece out. He cursed and he huffed, he swore more and then he just said "F*#k this, I'm going to sleep!" I laughed but was dumfounded as he crossed his arms, closed his eyes and had a look on his face similar to a child pouting about having to stop playing and get ready for bed when the absolute opposite was all they wanted to do. I do not recall the final disposition of the offending piece. Whether it was sacrificed or eventually collected are gone from my memory but the 15 or so minutes it took him to regain composure and soldier on are not.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Mar 30, 2019 - 08:00pm PT
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No worries on the droppings Manxie... no apology needed. I don’t think I cared then and I certainly don’t now. That is just how we rolled back in the day. Nowadays there would be a 300 post thread on it and much armchair analysis...
"F*#k this, I'm going to sleep!" Hahaha! Too funny!
Keep posting up! This sh#t is superb!
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 31, 2019 - 06:58am PT
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Found this old photo of Tom Grimes, he is in the Rt photo 1984
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The Manx
Social climber
Brisbane, Australia
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I read earlier in the thread where Vickie posted about free concerts in mammoth and that brought back a few memories but I'll need help on a detail.
After one particularly long summer and some of us were low or out of money but didn't want to head back to LA yet someone had the idea to go to mammoth and apply for food stamps. I think I went there with Craig but am fuzzy on this detail. I do remember the pos van I had and it may have been the summer I had driven to Yosemite after buying that van while visiting my dad in Kentucky. The thing was a '66 Dodge that was so badly rusted you could see the road through sections of the wheel well. (Too many winters back east driving on salted roads) But it had a built up bed with storage underneath, shag carpet on top and curtains my step mom made so was ideal, at the time, for camping. I drove my van, and I'm going to keep saying Craig until someone corrects me, Craig drove his vehicle. We did successfully obtain food stamps and camped in the Twin lakes campground for a bit.
I do remember wanting to go to one of those concerts mentioned above but we had no brewskis and that was a problem. You can't buy booze with food stamps but they would give you cash money change for purchases under $5 so we made several trips in and out buying candy bars and whatnot until we gad enough cash to get the brews. I think the concert was Jose Feliciano but I remember it being packed and not being able to see much (kind of like Jose, ba-dum-tis).
If memory serves Craig got a job labouring in construction for a bit and after my driveshaft fell out when a u-joint failed I got a job at the Chevron station. We would still make a few trips into Tuolumne but Craig left that scene while I stayed on, working at the Chevron until it got too cold and finally heading back to LA. Good times.
I think it was after this that I ended up in Sierra Madre canyon next to Jeff because I do remember selling that pos van to pick-a-part after I bought a newer'67 Dodge van sans shag carpet but also set for camping.
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The Manx
Social climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Jeff, not that brilliant. When I got the job I went and told them that I didn't need them any more. I don't recall all the details but I ended up paying everything back! So it was more of a student loan kinda thing, ha!
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Nice blast from the past Kent.
In the future some national parks' historian will have to figure out how these boulders were named after a tailless cat....
The Salathe was one of my favorite wall, my notes have us climbing it summer of 1982. No one else on the wall, those days are gone. The Fish and the Boxer did it before us and said it was awesome. I remember the Fish telling us one of them dropped the haul bag from a belay and the bag went for a full rope length fusing the knot in the haul line.
My memory of you dropping Russ was when you two climbed the Swallow (back when it was rated 5.8) at Taquizts, quite a bit of slander about the rope jumping your back.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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My memory of you dropping Russ was when you two climbed the Swallow
It was on the Sham... the aid part. Thin crack, then a bolt then a #1 stopper... I got on the stopper and it shifted... I said "heads up" and was trying to step back down into the aiders on the bolt... stopper pulled and I was gone. I remember holding onto my balaclava as I tumbled through a bush and went a ways. Didn't lose the 'clava though. Must have been cold up there.
From the small blue Taquitz guide:
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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Apr 10, 2019 - 09:34am PT
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Aloha Kent,
Thanks for the great pics. Many fond memories of JT and Yosemite high country. I'll never forget you driving me to Bishop Hospital so sick they shot me up with penicillin.
I cut school once and we went to Santa Anita. I put $2 on each grey horse that day and they all won...$140. Good times!
Bring the ohana to Big Island sometime. Lots of space. Your sister in Buggery, <3 V
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The Manx
climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Apr 11, 2019 - 03:14pm PT
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Hey Vicki,
Good to see you. We talk often of getting back to the states but mostly for the kids to see Disneyland. I'd like to get back and visit my birthplace in Honolulu but funding holds us back. I take it Tripler Army hospital is still there? Mom used to tell us stories of playing with scorpions 🦂 on the beach but my memory doesn't go back that far, heh.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 11, 2019 - 09:50pm PT
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^^^^
Looks like Mike Paul over there in the MC Hammer pants.... along with the Oregon Bong Squad
(Lol... sorry Mike!)
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L.A. Woman
Social climber
Buggerville
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Apr 12, 2019 - 07:46am PT
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Yeah Tripler still there. Crowded island, nearly a million peeps.
Scorpions? You must have lived on the west side. Desert. The Big Island is special. Has those high peaks and a wide variety of climates. We just had a late winter storm, as much of the country is. Snowed on Mauna Kea.
AKDOG aka Moon Fuzz, thanks for sharing more pics. Good times.
Aloha Friday everyone!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Apr 12, 2019 - 07:59pm PT
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Kinda random and not really related to any sheep molestation and I'm too late for Throw- Back Thursday but...
How's the "gracious living" going there Russ?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 12, 2019 - 08:17pm PT
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^^^^
Cool postcard! Like they say, “it is fine in 29”
A short back story to the Manx.... we met in high school... early in the morning, like first period gym class. We had swimming. F*#k that, too wet and cold for me, and I guess the Manx too. We both had doctors notes for having bad ears or something. We ended up playing chess every day in the bleachers, in street clothes, while them other fools swam around chasing a ball or something. Not sure how we ever endedup at the crags.... I remember going to JT with the Fuzz and Driver and Boxer crew.... I cant remember how we lured the Manx out there.
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The Manx
climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Apr 13, 2019 - 06:19pm PT
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Postcard from 1964! Wow! Way cool.
Fish... Chess.. lol We were convinced that the 'darker clientele' urinated endlessly in the pool and we weren't swimmin in that! I remember we used to play chess over the phone too. Upset the rents big time tying up the phone for hours. I also played some chess with Moonie but dayum!, that boy could play. Don't think I ever beat him.
I don't remember the first time I went to jt but we were big into weed at the time. I do remember dividing up kilos of the stuff on the Driver's kitchen table. Poker games in Dere's garage with that star pipe. Not sure if you did the poker scene much. Cislo did. Cislo and his mom, rofl. What a relationship those two had. He also made it out to the crags with Dere but it never caught on with them.
Too many afternoons/evenings in Driver's van doing pipeloads and brews. He set up a rope ladder in his neighbours tree that we all spent some time on.
Who was the big guy, maybe a friend Chris'. Pat Nay maybe? A quote you said to him has stuck in my brain all these years.. you told him "Fat, drunk and stupid is no way to go through life". Heh
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 13, 2019 - 07:05pm PT
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Haha... yep
Was way into poker at Deres... and comic book collecting and then playing poker for the comics. Games all the time with Paul Claussen, the Vienna Sausage, Dermot Begley, Tom Czerney, Cislo (lol) and whoever we could lure in. Guys lost a lot of money in those games. I remember bikes and paychecks being signed over on the spot! We must have played like 4 or more times a week!
Haha yeah that was Pat Nay... too funny! He sorted it out after them early days.
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The Manx
climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Apr 14, 2019 - 01:24pm PT
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Jeff, my father lives in Kentucky and I drove cross country one year to hang out with him. I may have purchased the guide book before or while driving through, I really don't recall. I do remember camping there one night, doing a little bouldering, but not much else. Vickie had given me a CSNY tape to take with me. I think it was titled So Far as she said I would be so far away from everyone. That year I sold my '78 Vette (Chevette) and bought the '66 Dodge van I mentioned earlier. I ever only spent a couple of months in Kentucky. I was born in Hawaii as father was in the Navy at the time but I grew up in so cal. La Crescenta, La Cañada, Pasadena, Sierra Madre so you can put the Daniel Boone romanticism about my youth to rest once and for all, heh.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 14, 2019 - 01:36pm PT
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Kent!?! No way!
Wow, glad to see you live and prosper!
I'm having flashbacks from Pawnee when we all lived there together.You, me, Washoe, John (Frer-dog), Doug (Moonie) and Mike Casper, with frequent visits from brother John Casper, Cyndie and all the SD locals of the day.
TOO MUCH FUN!
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Aeriq
Sport climber
100-year Visitor
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Apr 14, 2019 - 06:40pm PT
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Did any man actually fvck a sheep?
This is historically important information.
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The Manx
climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Apr 15, 2019 - 12:46am PT
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Dave! Good to see you man! I think I may still have Schlitz Malt in my system from those days. And kamikazes were a thing too! Surprised any of us still have functioning livers after those days. I posted earlier about remembering Washoe, what a magnificent beast he was.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Apr 15, 2019 - 07:40am PT
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The Manx
climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Apr 16, 2019 - 11:36pm PT
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Doug, I recognise Dere but not the other guy. And does Dere have a guitar?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 17, 2019 - 06:48am PT
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The other guy is probably Stan.
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The Manx
climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Apr 17, 2019 - 11:22am PT
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Stan..... From upper hastings/around the corner from the grocery store? Can't think of his last name but he had a dog named deeohgee?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 17, 2019 - 11:44am PT
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I'm thinking it's Derek's budy, Stan Cevino(sp?)
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Apr 17, 2019 - 12:08pm PT
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"actually fvvk a sheep?
This is historically important information."
The sheeple of white fluffy color community own the rights to those pics, and a settlement was reached to keep the identity of the offspring private. The national exquirer newspaper bought the rights to the story to keep it out of the mass tardia, though rumors and in-ewe-uendo continue of a new grotto location.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 17, 2019 - 06:47pm PT
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Stan Savino... high school chum of ours. Don’t know if that is him in the pic though.
Edit: not Stan in the pic. He was way smaller than that. I don’t know who it is. Fuzz, who is it?
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Apr 17, 2019 - 10:47pm PT
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Derrick's friend Pierre (can't remember his last name), lived up in Sierra Madre canyon, Derrick on guitar, Pierre on flute.
Here is a camp 4 photo from 1979, Manx supervising, while Russ hangs the food bag
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The Manx
climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Apr 18, 2019 - 12:50am PT
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Russ, do you remember the guy we called 'L' in camp 4 one summer? The guy was perpetually blazed, thus the name, and he used to chase squirrels everywhere. A quote from him has stuck with me over the years. "Go, go, go, dig, dig, dig. Acorns have pores!" LOL
Stan Savino I remember breaking stuff at his house. Specifically an old 12" black and white tv that we strung up over a street light and dropped it. Just before said destruction a neighbour of his came out and offered us money for the thing but we all agreed watching it smash would be much more fun and indeed, it was. Heh
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 18, 2019 - 08:08am PT
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That L dude was a tripper... lots of cases like that in the Valley back then. Now they are all living in Sprinters!
Pierre Swadowski (sp?j was the flute dude. Talked to him via email a year or so ago. I was sorta thinking that was him in the pic as it looked like the shadowy figure had a flute... good one!
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Bushman
climber
The state of quantum flux
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2019 - 09:28am PT
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Bugger on boys!
Maybe I’ll see you on the far side.
-Dibbs
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Apr 18, 2019 - 12:30pm PT
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Best thread on ST by far.
I remember the first time we ran into a group of SBs. We couldn't understand their unique argot. Then CF gave us the primer.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2019 - 12:43pm PT
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Dont know if this got whacked in the copyright purge... but here are some early bugger pics from a party...
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The Manx
climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Apr 20, 2019 - 01:12pm PT
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Bleating wasn't the only noise at jt bitd. At some point Russ became concerned about snakes so on our longer walks between formations we could sometimes be heard using his unique snake warning noise. IIRC it was something along the lines of ewwwwww eeeeeeee ewwwwwww with the thought that this noise would warn any snakes in our trajectory that we were coming and they best get out of the way. It must have worked because no one ever got bit!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2019 - 01:19pm PT
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Note that the Driver has his arm in a sling in those party pics...
that was from the infamous fall off of Pink Royd at Stoney Point... he pitches, puts his arm out behind him, and dislocates the thing... no worries though. Jack Roberts (rip) was there and kept insisting he could fix him right up by pulling on it. Driver was like "fuk that" and went to the hospital instead.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 20, 2019 - 03:33pm PT
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It must have worked because no one ever got bit!
Clearly all the deaf snakes (they being 100%) got the memo. LOL
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 20, 2019 - 05:41pm PT
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Lookit that thing !!!!!!
It's 20 feet long !!!
Ho Leee sh!t ......
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The Manx
climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Apr 20, 2019 - 06:22pm PT
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Jeff, that's not me on belay. Never wore a headband like that and way too much hair!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 20, 2019 - 07:21pm PT
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Driver's bouldering fall at Stoney Point. That was actually the 1st time I'd met him. Late '78 or early '79.
And ya..Jack was enthusiastically working the arm to no avail...
I was not with you guys at the ER. Wasn't one of the nurses Yaniro's Mom?
You talking about the day the Driver smacked his elbow and we met Yaniro's mom at the clinic afterward, Jeff? Of course you are.
Quite the coincidence that Jack and I met the Yaniro mom as a consequence of Greg's crash.
I don't remember much about his actual fall. Happens fast, you know. I caught his thumping out of the corner of my eye. Tony's mother was pretty cute! A talker, too.
Jack drove us there in his yellow Datsun B 210. Who else was hangin'? I can't quite remember. Maybe just you sending us off to the clinic. There was only room for three.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Apr 20, 2019 - 08:04pm PT
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Remember the day swelly and have similar pics, now deleted.... check the shoes on the belayer and the white chalk bag belt... dolt bag? That could be a key as to who it is. I’ll check the archives
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Apr 21, 2019 - 12:54am PT
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Lookit that thing !!!!!!
It's 20 feet long !!!
Ho Leee sh!t ......
(Fisticuffs) FA by John Long and Rick Accamazzo in 1973.
We were a bunch of posers, just trying a Largo climb made us quake... the shorter the better.. :-)
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 21, 2019 - 10:34am PT
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Yo Bros! Thanks for the comments on Washoe. He was The King for a long time.
No other dog could touch him.
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The Manx
climber
Brisbane, Australia
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Apr 22, 2019 - 04:32pm PT
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Clearly all the deaf snakes (they being 100%) got the memo. LOL
Leave it to Fish to work out what sounds translate into vibrations snakes can understand. Cleary he's a genius!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 18, 2019 - 02:49pm PT
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Before we say adieu
Whatever happened up there made you stronger
How did Russ get the name "Fish"?
I'll tell ya this ~ '
Too Much Of Everything Is Just Enough
After partying all night & a beer for breakfast
I had a seizure in front of Mike Paul (Watusi) & the whole crew
late fall; early November '81?
Still shakin here bosss!
Wasn't safe to go solo into the realm back then
Kieth Burkett was a savior introduced me to Big Mike I was small
I trailed around with Big Al & Katie Wilkinson,
( Like the razor blade company, remember the sound in the ads of swords clashing?)
FROG had brought me down from the Ditch,
BvB gnew my bodacious Red headed sister
She lived in Santa Monica, I hung out there a bit.
Gonzo took me in 'winter '84?
Buy yourself an Atom Smasher Deluxe
Still the best deal going; out of a hundred sacks on the market
& 'cause it has Deluxe in the name, everyone wants that...
Marketing JeenRuss
rottingjohnny, Sport climber, Sands Motel , Las Vegas
~~~~, , May 18, 2019 - 08:53pm PT
Katie Wilkinson....? Blast from the past....
A shot to show the route, "Silent Scream",(back when it was fresh, No Chalk)
so a bit far, but you can make out that girl; unforgettable
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Sands Motel , Las Vegas
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May 18, 2019 - 08:53pm PT
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Katie Wilkinson....? Blast from the past....
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JOEY.F
Gym climber
It's not rocket surgery
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May 19, 2019 - 05:01pm PT
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....
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 19, 2019 - 05:36pm PT
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Washoe ruled. I'll never forget the night he hung tough on our MTB ride from HV to Desert Queen mine.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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May 22, 2019 - 09:55pm PT
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Russ the guy you have labeled Raul Camargo at the party is Jerry Adamee another Pasadena high kid.
here are a few more picks from BITD before this forum dies.
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