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Messages 1 - 69 of total 69 in this topic
Dr. F

Boulder climber
Costa Mesa, CA
Apr 10, 2006 - 09:54am PT
Are you sure you want stories and slander, it might offend some ones poor little built up ego. I've heard that some stories should never be told, bringing up the past is just foolish, or is it?
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Apr 10, 2006 - 10:04am PT
Okay I'll start.

The year was 1972. We still had not attended our first Dead show, had sex or led a 5.10. Most of us were freshman in high school. My friend called my parents house and said, "let's go to Joshua Tree for the weekend."

We packed up the station wagon and drove out of the smoggy have into the quiet desert. When we arrived at the Monument, only a broken wooden sign told us we were there. No entrance station or guard existed and most of the roads were dirt. It was a1 Friday afternoon and we headed out past the Hidden Valley campground to find more suitable camping for our small group of newby cragsters.


Parking on a turnout, we grabbed our gear and walked out to what ios now the Asteroid Boulders to set up camp. As the sun set, my friend noted that "the moon is totally full tonight" and handed out the purple tablets of LSD we were about to ingest.

The moon was brighter than daylight (we thought) and tripping like psychos, we were on other planets and galaxies as we bagged many desperate problems. The experience was truly otherworldly

By the time the morning came, our fingers (and adrenal grands) were worn, but we were completely hooked on climbing at Josh.

Nothing like starting ones climbing career with a few hundred micrograms of the strong stuff, a full moon, a new pair of PAs and a 15 year old body. That was then and this is now.
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 10, 2006 - 11:06am PT
Remember the early years when you can have as many cars per camp as the parking space would allow. We would have 20 cars in some sites. Never a problem finding a site, just pull in to your friends site and wait for the weekend to happen, campfires, speed chess, mid night bouldering, hacky sack, the great chasm with no flaslights.No Rangers.That was until about 79'.
Then the Rangers became cops and the end was near. One weekend I remember there was a mass round up bust, many people were caught doing something wrong.We ran out into the desert when we saw them coming.I think the Sheep Buggers drove the Rangers over the edge.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Apr 10, 2006 - 11:11am PT
Hey, how bout some chasm beta?
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 10, 2006 - 11:30am PT
What are the "Sheep Buggers"??
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 10, 2006 - 12:06pm PT
Ba'a 'aaa
I was hoping to never resort to that
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Apr 10, 2006 - 12:08pm PT
"What are the "Sheep Buggers"??" Asks the head sheep buggerer himself. Maybe you can give us the definitive answer Russ.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Apr 10, 2006 - 12:23pm PT
yep I remember walking or stumbling around Josh Baa-baaa-aaaing until I heard someone baaing back then I knew I was close to some familiar company. I could only wonder what climbers in the area thought that didn't know what was up. I use to look for Andre, Bob Cretchfield, Howy King, Dave Wonderly, Prebble Marshall(Jack)and the other "fuzzy butts" out there in this manner.
Peace
straightandnarrow

Sport climber
Salt Lake City
Apr 10, 2006 - 01:53pm PT
Russ, what about the time all of you big boys formed a sex-train behind me in the yuccas? That was so very fun,

Jen
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 10, 2006 - 02:10pm PT
I remember it well. straightandnarrow = Ranger Boone
G_Gnome

Social climber
Tendonitis City
Apr 10, 2006 - 02:25pm PT
I was in the chasm the other week and either my memory is totally gone or the top exit onto the exposed shelf is now inaccessable because some rocks have fallen into the top of the chasm. Has anyone else been in there and can confirm this? I was so looking forward to indoctrinating a newbie into the "step across' out on the ledge but we couldn't get out there.
Ouch!

climber
Apr 10, 2006 - 02:40pm PT
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 10, 2006 - 04:15pm PT
All I remember of the sheep buggers is they were a bunch of obnoxious, post pubescent, just out of high school, pimply faced, headbanger brats. Just like every new Gen. But they were funny, and I mean really funny. There was the F'n Fish, Nims, Manxy Dude, Larry Loads, the driver, Moony, Frericks, and a couple more. I used to think that kieth Cunning was the leader, probably not, I'm not sure, but what was his nick name? Largo's special buddy boy?
And they would never stop with the Ba'aa'aaaa.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 10, 2006 - 04:28pm PT
Only Buggerers I knew about: That f'n Fish dude, the Manx, Sims, Mooney, Driver, E (even though he tried not to be), Ken Hamm, Boxer, Craig Fry, and the fringe guys who did not like their own gay group known as the "Joe Boys"... that would be Sewell, Buttfukelmann, Tony Monteil, Joe Hedge, Frericks, Larry Loads, Toe Tag Tom, and a few others.

I think it all started out at the weeping wall one day when the "hotties" (like maybe Craig Fry and Vogel and Largo and Powell/Hensel, Mike and Mari) heard a strange noise off in the distance.... and Largo says "Ho man... it sounds like someone is buggering some sheep..." Next thing ya know... the name stuck. Originally we used to make the noise just to piss off Mooney. For some reason we thought he looked like that goat in a Rowell book that was climbing a 5.9 crack.
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 10, 2006 - 07:34pm PT
This is a story about a FA route fumble. I am the only one to blame for this lose.
I was descending Tahquitz N. side and gave a quick look at the Y-Crack. Whats that to the right, its a crack, it looks hard, but good, and probably doable, I haven't ever heard of anyone.
I not sure how long after that, but I was able to persuade Mo Linky to have a look, w/ a rack and we're ready to go. It looked alittle bit above my head, so I offer the lead to Moe, thankfully he accepted. He goes up, ands he up there for what seemed like an hour and half, which I didn't have problem, but it was cold. Back in those days we did what was called free climbing, you start at the bottom and work your way up the route by free climbing. No hanging, no resting on tension, if you want tension, it will be on your way to the deck. You hang, you haven't done the route..
But after I was belaying forever, I was frozen toast, I start up and its really hard, now I see why Mo was up there forever, its amazing that anyone could hold on so long, fiddling with pro and all. Its probably steeper than dead vert. So its here that I take a fumble, couldn't follow w/out hanging. Topped out, thanked Mo and wrote him up for the FA, and only him, there were no others.
Did it a couple years later w/ E, it was hard but didn't have too much trouble following E.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 10, 2006 - 09:01pm PT
Golden years, my ass.......the Golden years are still going on.........then and NOW.......(50 years form now, ....2006 will still be part of the Golden years.....I kid you not......)......Yeeehooooo!!!!!!...we are alive, participating, experiencing, and making it happen...........It aint 'over yet.......don't cash in your chips early.....(Excuse me while I change a diaper.......I'm toast......)
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Apr 10, 2006 - 09:29pm PT
Right on Todd!!!...
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Apr 10, 2006 - 09:41pm PT
Well said Todd!
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Apr 10, 2006 - 09:46pm PT
Todd, I mis-named the thread. I meant to call it "Golden Years of Josh Slander and Associated Stories, still going on..."
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Apr 10, 2006 - 10:17pm PT
Dr F,

That's a great story. Would that be The Green Rosetta?
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 11, 2006 - 09:06am PT
Russ
I was never a sheep bugger. You trying to sneek that one through. I probably grouped all you young punks together, wasn't there the upland Boys too.
Green Rosseta, Moes name, cool song from Joes Garage, Frank Zappa. The route was covered in green lichen. He also had to pull out a some loose rocks, clean out dirt, and skate the footholds clean.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 11, 2006 - 09:25am PT
The Uplanders... yeah.. Keith Cunning for sure and maybe a guy called Ed??? I think Keith had that big station wagon and would drive out tons of guys in the rig. Not sure who the rest of them were.
straightandnarrow

Sport climber
Salt Lake City
Apr 11, 2006 - 10:19pm PT
And then there was the time that Dr. F and I tried to find some solitude together up in the Space Cave.

We only had three condoms, the morning was fast approaching and a group of teenagers were scrambing up to the Cave for there own party.
Once the teens arrived the temperature cool significantly.

Once Russ climbed up though, things really did heat right back up....
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 12, 2006 - 09:01am PT
Heres another FA route fumble story, Grand Theft Avocado.
I had attempted to free solo it couple times before for the FA, but for some reason, I always had tennis shoes on. I guess regular climbing shoes were too tight back then to boulder and solo around in (before 5 tennies). So this one time, I bring DE to it, and tell him that I've tried a couple times before, it looks 5.6 to 5.8. As luck would have it, DE had boots and chalk, and went right up it. I tried it again in my tennies for dual FS FA, but got shut once again. DE took the gold, and his name apropos.
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 12, 2006 - 09:07am PT
Strait^narrow
That was good times, no wonder I hated those sheep bugs, getting in my action
Apocalypsenow

Trad climber
Cali
Apr 12, 2006 - 05:53pm PT
Remember the Scrutinizer?
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 13, 2006 - 03:04pm PT
Heres a picture from ~1978, can you name those folks.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 13, 2006 - 03:17pm PT
Brain Rennie? in front

front row l - R:
Dave Evans, Maria Cranor, Juan Largo the Magnificent, Charles Cole III, Bullwinkle, the Tall Sleek Neufi

Back l - r :
Yabo, Mari Gingery, Mike Lechlinski, lead singer from Journey?, unknown.
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Apr 13, 2006 - 03:44pm PT
".. Remember the Scrutinizer?.."

John Hayward. Surfer turned climber. I used to hang with him a lot. He would live in HVCC for extended periods eating high protien monkey chow which he purchased at the feed lot between Morongo and Yucca.

For several years in Josh he was the "witness"for a number of hard ascents. He was a better climber than he would let on to be.

I realized there was more to "The Scrut" than I had thought when one time he actually went to town with me to eat actual food, and when we were finished he pulled out an Amex Gold card and picked up the tab.

I saw him out there a couple years ago unexpectedly. He was rid of the old foil covered car and rusty recumbent bike and seemed quite well.
jclimb

Trad climber
Durango, Co
Apr 13, 2006 - 03:54pm PT
that's an awesome pic. i love journey.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 13, 2006 - 03:58pm PT
...guy in the back right. Any chance that's Gramicci looking coy?
G_Gnome

Social climber
Tendonitis City
Apr 13, 2006 - 04:54pm PT
That's not Mariah though is it Craig?
Apocalypsenow

Trad climber
Cali
Apr 13, 2006 - 05:35pm PT
Thanks Ksolem, I enjoyed that guy. Nice to hear he is doing well.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 13, 2006 - 05:44pm PT
That was about the time when Yabo free soloed the North Overhang naked at night and we took all his clothes so he wouldn't find them when he got down....but he knew we were gonna steal them ahead of time and hid a secret clothes stash somewhere else. We were all right below him when he did the crux - insane view of the "crack" - we couldn't stop laughing - poor guy, good thing he could keep it together...RIP bro.

He did it all for a nugget of "chocolate" !
sr

climber
Bay Area, CA
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:08pm PT
The two on the rt back- Randy V and Jim Angione ?
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:11pm PT
Vogel for sure now! Good one!
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:17pm PT
Nope not me, I was in a frozen tundra that Josh season.

Funny, Yabo going for the chocolate. Must of lit up the campground getting the full moon like that.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 13, 2006 - 08:51pm PT
JB, As I remember it, Yabo was promised $5 or so. But the chocolate makes a better story.

Yes that is Angione on the right.

bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 13, 2006 - 09:20pm PT
Not 5, not chocolate.
james Colborn

Trad climber
CA
Apr 14, 2006 - 08:19am PT
As I finish packing up the camper for my umpteenth trip to JT I am tending to agree with T Gordon that these are the goood old days. Each trip has some outlandish event, be it a climbing achievement or laughing so hard around the camp fire that I cripple myself. JTree keeps on giving.
I will digress. My first visit to the monument was filled with shinanagens. My friend(we'll call him Todd for privacy issues), and I loaded up the truck in Chico and got a couple of names from the ride board at the university to lessen the burden of driving and gas costs. We picked up the girls who were headed to Orange County and they offered to drive 1/2 way. I let them take the wheel while Todd and I crawled in the back to rip a bunch of B-loads. The girls didin't want either of us driving so they drove all the way to Orange, Todd and I do the Spicolli roll out barely able to walk and make the rest of the trip to the park. Waking up to some super human guy (Too Srong Dave?) ripping up evryboulder problem in the camp and then soloing every route in eyeshot. Mind numbing. After a morning of introductory routes we head to Illusion Dweller, on the way we observe a guy passed out in the dirt under his truck with tall boy buds all around him(Tucker? ) We do illusion dweller and walk back towards the parking lot and there is the guy who was past out an hour ago belaying Hidataka Suzuki on Some like it Hot with a cigarette dangling out his mouth and really not paying much attention to his partner. Classic Form. He hits us up for some weed and trades a few hexs for a joint, I think he got the better deal! A true lasting memeory of that two week stay was that we never taped up. OOOPS. I still have the scars today.
Cheers, JAMES
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Apr 14, 2006 - 09:05am PT
Got it!… “Nugget”
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Apr 14, 2006 - 09:24am PT
Talk about Slander.

You guys know which magazine that B/W picture is on the back cover of the current issue, eh?














Wait for it.































Urban Climber
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 14, 2006 - 09:45am PT
"nugget" -- silly me.

Yah, couple weeks ago the people at Nomad's pointed out the shot on the back of "Urban Climber". Kinda seemed an odd place for that particular picture.

"Sex, Drugs & Rock" was the caption. Not sure about the sex part.
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 14, 2006 - 10:16am PT
Hey Fish, only The Largo can call me the tall sleek Newfy.
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 14, 2006 - 11:10am PT
Heres one last story to stir to pot alittle more before it boils. Its a classic FA route poach in every facet.
The day after me, and the Stahl bros discover the Queen Mt. climbing area, we bring DE,T Gordon, Barlett and bunch of other folks up there to show them our find. As they are doing up a bunch of FAs, I decide to hike out to the next ridge of crags for exploration. Lo and behold, its the Olympic Dome with 3 perfect routes,never seen before.
So next time, I lead the the hike to the dome with the usual crowd to start some routes. I give the Icon to DE to lead, (he's such a nice guy) and me and Todd Battey start on the Bloodline. We go out several times to work the bloodline, but the best route I was saving for last, it looked quite hard, for sure 5.12, overhanging, perfect rock 4-5 stars. We named it the 'Nimbo Clatus'. We first tryed top roping it, and got up about a quarter of the way. Epps says "the hotties would do it up without much problem". I think to myself, "oh they may struggle alittle". See, we were the B+ Team during those days. The hotties being Mold Linky (ML)and Tim Girge (TG)(names changed to protect the guilty), they were more of the A+ Team, since Bachar wasn't around any more. Well anyway, I've already talked about the cliff to them a couple times and their reply was, "sure it's a good crag, just like all those other times you had found the best route ever, your crazy, its too long of a hike, Bla, Bla"
But when we were out there w/ Epps and Spenc, and the top rope going, I look on the horizon with my binoculars and see a crowd of people watching us with binocs. Who could it be. It turns out to be ML and TG, who after that day, went back out the same week on a poaching expedition. They called it the Black Diamond, and definitely did it in better style than I was planning. But since they were so hot and so trad, they used hooks to place the bolts. They would race up as far as they could, throw a hook on a flake and rest while bolting, then race up the next highest flake. Theres not that many good flakes. Hence the bolts are way too far apart for any normal climbers to enjoy. Bachar did the second and commented that was super high quality, quite bold and could use some more bolts. But of course, that will never happen. So anyway, I sent Mold a letter voicing my grievances, which didn't go over to well. I think I'll go back out there some day and put in a bunch of extra bolts, just to bring it down to my level (lowest common denominator).
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Apr 14, 2006 - 11:21am PT
With regards to the chasm. My friend also tried to show me the entrance. It has collapsed. We wandered around for quite some time to find the back entrance and he showed me what remained. It was a pretty fun rock scramble down in there!
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 14, 2006 - 12:29pm PT
Craig: Rumors of Black Diamond ('Nimbo Clatus') being poorly bolted are overblown. It has been lead by a number of people. Certainly adequately protected for anyone climbing at the grade.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree/queen_mountain/105724525

I won't step into the quagmire of adding bolts to existing routes, particularly remote and difficult climbs about which no one has complained about the protection.
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 14, 2006 - 02:01pm PT
Thanks Sketchy
But whats this, in the Mountain Project Guide, it says "The Bloodline" FA by DEE and T Gordon. History sure can change fast in the heads of these boys. I'm not even sure that they were that day. It was actually me and Todd Battey working on it for weeks and we just couldn't get past this one section. So we brought out the big guns, E.E. He led it w/out falling. Me and Battey followed, not sure who else was there that could follow 5.12.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 14, 2006 - 02:30pm PT
Crag: This is what I have for FA info....

THE BLOODLINE 5.12a FA: Todd Battey, Dave Evans, Craig Fry and Rob Stahl. March, 1989; FFA: Eric Erickson and Craig Fry.

Does this sound right?
de eee

Mountain climber
Tustin
Apr 17, 2006 - 08:30am PT
Seems like everybody whos anybody has poached a route or three from Dr. F. YEAH!
Fun hangin' with you yesterday Dr. but no more comments about perfect memory, eh?

If you can dish it out, you've got to be able to take it.
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 17, 2006 - 09:23am PT
I can take it. Thats why I dish it out.
The info in the Mountain Project Guide seems suspect. Greenhorn, FA by DE and others? Bloodline? Also CCole wasn't on Poaching.
You shoulda stayed, Me and spence found a new bouldering area.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 17, 2006 - 11:14am PT
Crag:

Great seeing you and everyone else.

The Mountain Project (formally ClimbingJTree.com) site is a user created/contribution site. So there are going to be mistakes, omissions and stuff depending on the who originally contributed the info. I doubt that any of these mistakes are intentional.

So the best thing you can do CF is to submit a comments correcting info. Often Chris Miller (one of the site admistrators) incorporates this stuff to the original route posting.
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Apr 17, 2006 - 09:32pm PT
Okay, well since we are all coming clean with pastg thefts and questionbaly ethical behavior, I have to admit a serious violation of the ethics guidelines.

I stole the first acsent of the "Beaver", free solo.
EE

Ice climber
Arcadia
Apr 17, 2006 - 10:10pm PT
And Dr. F, speaking of theft. Didn't you steal my supergood pal Tarbuster from me, just when things were getting interesting?
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 18, 2006 - 05:49pm PT
Tar buster was crazy, he just took off one day
It wasn't me
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 18, 2006 - 06:24pm PT
Thanks Sketchy for the info
Your books have the correct info, I will submit any other suspect material to Mt Project.
DEE,What did I say about my memory?, I said I remember most things, but the things I do remember, are mostly (>95%) accurate,in some fundemental way. How say You.
What do your notes say.
EE

Ice climber
land of odd
Apr 18, 2006 - 06:25pm PT
But Dr. F, Tarbuster was my sub-man, not yours. There have been books written about maintaining the pecking order.

Want my reading list?
straightandnarrow

Sport climber
Salt Lake City
Apr 18, 2006 - 07:25pm PT
Dr. F/EE,

Don't bicker over Tarbuster, he's mine! Mr. Buster and I go way back, especially in bed.

Dr. F, you and I sp[ent quite a bit of time making babies; luckily none were made.

Time sure does fly don't it?

Jen
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Apr 19, 2006 - 10:16pm PT
Dr. Sketchy,

thanks for all of your great work documenting the historical events of our climbing past. The new Josh West guide is brilliant!

WBraun

climber
Apr 19, 2006 - 10:29pm PT
Oh you want to take all the credit for yourself, huh?

You give no credit to your belayer, whom without, you would never have done anything.

Just fucckin with ya man
Dr. F

climber
Costa Mesa
Apr 19, 2006 - 10:43pm PT
Hey, I was there too.

I just don't remember.
todd-gordon

climber
Apr 19, 2006 - 10:43pm PT
Some people credit the first ascent PARTY or TEAM....doesn't matter who in PARTY or TEAM climbed the damn climb......others people just go with the person or persons who did the climbing AND did the route without hanging or resting or pulling........maybe the first ascent should only be the person who LEAD the climb?... or drilled the bolts?....What???...I personally go with whoever CLIMBED the route (any style...free, aid, hangs, whatever...)for short routes....and first ascent team or party for longer routes......(Team effort, mate...)... sticky business, aint' it?.......Good thing climbers are an honest bunch ; never lie, fabricate, forget, or tell half-truths.......
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 22, 2007 - 10:33pm PT


Jim Angione.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
Apple Valley, California
Jul 22, 2007 - 11:14pm PT
Does anyone remember when ALF set fire to Pinched Rib??

:)
G_Gnome

Sport climber
Everywhere, man...
Jul 25, 2007 - 02:11pm PT
Was Pinched Rib still 5.8 at the time?
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 25, 2007 - 02:18pm PT
classic thread

LOL'd when i read Fish's

"Originally we used to make the (sheep bugger) noise just to piss off Mooney. For some reason we thought he looked like that goat in a Rowell book that was climbing a 5.9 crack."
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 13, 2010 - 10:54am PT
Sketchy got the Bloodline info right. We all climbed it at some point, but I don't recall anyone leading it without a fall until I heard about E. I actually drilled at least one bolt (below the one finger hole). I was hanging from a hook on a hold that no longer exists because someone (who shall remain nameless) pulled out on it instead of down ;-) I worked on one of the other bolts as well, but don't remember how much because I am getting old and forgetfull too....at least they were put in from the ground up.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Nov 16, 2012 - 08:11pm PT
Bump for Dr. F
locker

Social climber
Nov 16, 2012 - 08:13pm PT

^^^

Stalker...

Heard through the Grapevine that he's closely related to that Dahmer fellow...

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