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Messages 1 - 53 of total 53 in this topic
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Apr 10, 2006 - 01:04pm PT
Okay I'll start.

The year was 1972. We still had not attended our first Dead show, had sex or led a 5.10. Most of us were freshman in high school. My friend called my parents house and said, "let's go to Joshua Tree for the weekend."

We packed up the station wagon and drove out of the smoggy have into the quiet desert. When we arrived at the Monument, only a broken wooden sign told us we were there. No entrance station or guard existed and most of the roads were dirt. It was a1 Friday afternoon and we headed out past the Hidden Valley campground to find more suitable camping for our small group of newby cragsters.


Parking on a turnout, we grabbed our gear and walked out to what ios now the Asteroid Boulders to set up camp. As the sun set, my friend noted that "the moon is totally full tonight" and handed out the purple tablets of LSD we were about to ingest.

The moon was brighter than daylight (we thought) and tripping like psychos, we were on other planets and galaxies as we bagged many desperate problems. The experience was truly otherworldly

By the time the morning came, our fingers (and adrenal grands) were worn, but we were completely hooked on climbing at Josh.

Nothing like starting ones climbing career with a few hundred micrograms of the strong stuff, a full moon, a new pair of PAs and a 15 year old body. That was then and this is now.
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Apr 10, 2006 - 02:11pm PT
Hey, how bout some chasm beta?
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 10, 2006 - 02:30pm PT
What are the "Sheep Buggers"??
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Apr 10, 2006 - 03:08pm PT
"What are the "Sheep Buggers"??" Asks the head sheep buggerer himself. Maybe you can give us the definitive answer Russ.
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Apr 10, 2006 - 03:23pm PT
yep I remember walking or stumbling around Josh Baa-baaa-aaaing until I heard someone baaing back then I knew I was close to some familiar company. I could only wonder what climbers in the area thought that didn't know what was up. I use to look for Andre, Bob Cretchfield, Howy King, Dave Wonderly, Prebble Marshall(Jack)and the other "fuzzy butts" out there in this manner.
Peace
straightandnarrow

Sport climber
Salt Lake City
Apr 10, 2006 - 04:53pm PT
Russ, what about the time all of you big boys formed a sex-train behind me in the yuccas? That was so very fun,

Jen
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 10, 2006 - 05:10pm PT
I remember it well. straightandnarrow = Ranger Boone
G_Gnome

Social climber
Tendonitis City
Apr 10, 2006 - 05:25pm PT
I was in the chasm the other week and either my memory is totally gone or the top exit onto the exposed shelf is now inaccessable because some rocks have fallen into the top of the chasm. Has anyone else been in there and can confirm this? I was so looking forward to indoctrinating a newbie into the "step across' out on the ledge but we couldn't get out there.
Ouch!

climber
Apr 10, 2006 - 05:40pm PT
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 10, 2006 - 07:28pm PT
Only Buggerers I knew about: That f'n Fish dude, the Manx, Sims, Mooney, Driver, E (even though he tried not to be), Ken Hamm, Boxer, Craig Fry, and the fringe guys who did not like their own gay group known as the "Joe Boys"... that would be Sewell, Buttfukelmann, Tony Monteil, Joe Hedge, Frericks, Larry Loads, Toe Tag Tom, and a few others.

I think it all started out at the weeping wall one day when the "hotties" (like maybe Craig Fry and Vogel and Largo and Powell/Hensel, Mike and Mari) heard a strange noise off in the distance.... and Largo says "Ho man... it sounds like someone is buggering some sheep..." Next thing ya know... the name stuck. Originally we used to make the noise just to piss off Mooney. For some reason we thought he looked like that goat in a Rowell book that was climbing a 5.9 crack.
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Apr 11, 2006 - 12:01am PT
Golden years, my ass.......the Golden years are still going on.........then and NOW.......(50 years form now, ....2006 will still be part of the Golden years.....I kid you not......)......Yeeehooooo!!!!!!...we are alive, participating, experiencing, and making it happen...........It aint 'over yet.......don't cash in your chips early.....(Excuse me while I change a diaper.......I'm toast......)
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Apr 11, 2006 - 12:29am PT
Right on Todd!!!...
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Apr 11, 2006 - 12:41am PT
Well said Todd!
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Apr 11, 2006 - 12:46am PT
Todd, I mis-named the thread. I meant to call it "Golden Years of Josh Slander and Associated Stories, still going on..."
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Apr 11, 2006 - 01:17am PT
Dr F,

That's a great story. Would that be The Green Rosetta?
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 11, 2006 - 12:25pm PT
The Uplanders... yeah.. Keith Cunning for sure and maybe a guy called Ed??? I think Keith had that big station wagon and would drive out tons of guys in the rig. Not sure who the rest of them were.
straightandnarrow

Sport climber
Salt Lake City
Apr 12, 2006 - 01:19am PT
And then there was the time that Dr. F and I tried to find some solitude together up in the Space Cave.

We only had three condoms, the morning was fast approaching and a group of teenagers were scrambing up to the Cave for there own party.
Once the teens arrived the temperature cool significantly.

Once Russ climbed up though, things really did heat right back up....
Apocalypsenow

Trad climber
Cali
Apr 12, 2006 - 08:53pm PT
Remember the Scrutinizer?
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:17pm PT
Brain Rennie? in front

front row l - R:
Dave Evans, Maria Cranor, Juan Largo the Magnificent, Charles Cole III, Bullwinkle, the Tall Sleek Neufi

Back l - r :
Yabo, Mari Gingery, Mike Lechlinski, lead singer from Journey?, unknown.
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:44pm PT
".. Remember the Scrutinizer?.."

John Hayward. Surfer turned climber. I used to hang with him a lot. He would live in HVCC for extended periods eating high protien monkey chow which he purchased at the feed lot between Morongo and Yucca.

For several years in Josh he was the "witness"for a number of hard ascents. He was a better climber than he would let on to be.

I realized there was more to "The Scrut" than I had thought when one time he actually went to town with me to eat actual food, and when we were finished he pulled out an Amex Gold card and picked up the tab.

I saw him out there a couple years ago unexpectedly. He was rid of the old foil covered car and rusty recumbent bike and seemed quite well.
jclimb

Trad climber
Durango, Co
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:54pm PT
that's an awesome pic. i love journey.
rmuir

Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Apr 13, 2006 - 06:58pm PT
...guy in the back right. Any chance that's Gramicci looking coy?
G_Gnome

Social climber
Tendonitis City
Apr 13, 2006 - 07:54pm PT
That's not Mariah though is it Craig?
Apocalypsenow

Trad climber
Cali
Apr 13, 2006 - 08:35pm PT
Thanks Ksolem, I enjoyed that guy. Nice to hear he is doing well.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 13, 2006 - 08:44pm PT
That was about the time when Yabo free soloed the North Overhang naked at night and we took all his clothes so he wouldn't find them when he got down....but he knew we were gonna steal them ahead of time and hid a secret clothes stash somewhere else. We were all right below him when he did the crux - insane view of the "crack" - we couldn't stop laughing - poor guy, good thing he could keep it together...RIP bro.

He did it all for a nugget of "chocolate" !
sr

climber
Bay Area, CA
Apr 13, 2006 - 09:08pm PT
The two on the rt back- Randy V and Jim Angione ?
Russ Walling

Social climber
Same place as you, man...... (WB)
Apr 13, 2006 - 09:11pm PT
Vogel for sure now! Good one!
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Apr 13, 2006 - 09:17pm PT
Nope not me, I was in a frozen tundra that Josh season.

Funny, Yabo going for the chocolate. Must of lit up the campground getting the full moon like that.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 13, 2006 - 11:51pm PT
JB, As I remember it, Yabo was promised $5 or so. But the chocolate makes a better story.

Yes that is Angione on the right.

bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Apr 14, 2006 - 12:20am PT
Not 5, not chocolate.
james Colborn

Trad climber
CA
Apr 14, 2006 - 11:19am PT
As I finish packing up the camper for my umpteenth trip to JT I am tending to agree with T Gordon that these are the goood old days. Each trip has some outlandish event, be it a climbing achievement or laughing so hard around the camp fire that I cripple myself. JTree keeps on giving.
I will digress. My first visit to the monument was filled with shinanagens. My friend(we'll call him Todd for privacy issues), and I loaded up the truck in Chico and got a couple of names from the ride board at the university to lessen the burden of driving and gas costs. We picked up the girls who were headed to Orange County and they offered to drive 1/2 way. I let them take the wheel while Todd and I crawled in the back to rip a bunch of B-loads. The girls didin't want either of us driving so they drove all the way to Orange, Todd and I do the Spicolli roll out barely able to walk and make the rest of the trip to the park. Waking up to some super human guy (Too Srong Dave?) ripping up evryboulder problem in the camp and then soloing every route in eyeshot. Mind numbing. After a morning of introductory routes we head to Illusion Dweller, on the way we observe a guy passed out in the dirt under his truck with tall boy buds all around him(Tucker? ) We do illusion dweller and walk back towards the parking lot and there is the guy who was past out an hour ago belaying Hidataka Suzuki on Some like it Hot with a cigarette dangling out his mouth and really not paying much attention to his partner. Classic Form. He hits us up for some weed and trades a few hexs for a joint, I think he got the better deal! A true lasting memeory of that two week stay was that we never taped up. OOOPS. I still have the scars today.
Cheers, JAMES
Gramicci

Social climber
Ventura
Apr 14, 2006 - 12:05pm PT
Got it!… “Nugget”
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Apr 14, 2006 - 12:24pm PT
Talk about Slander.

You guys know which magazine that B/W picture is on the back cover of the current issue, eh?














Wait for it.































Urban Climber
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 14, 2006 - 12:45pm PT
"nugget" -- silly me.

Yah, couple weeks ago the people at Nomad's pointed out the shot on the back of "Urban Climber". Kinda seemed an odd place for that particular picture.

"Sex, Drugs & Rock" was the caption. Not sure about the sex part.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Apr 14, 2006 - 02:21pm PT
With regards to the chasm. My friend also tried to show me the entrance. It has collapsed. We wandered around for quite some time to find the back entrance and he showed me what remained. It was a pretty fun rock scramble down in there!
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 14, 2006 - 03:29pm PT
Craig: Rumors of Black Diamond ('Nimbo Clatus') being poorly bolted are overblown. It has been lead by a number of people. Certainly adequately protected for anyone climbing at the grade.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/california/joshua_tree/queen_mountain/105724525

I won't step into the quagmire of adding bolts to existing routes, particularly remote and difficult climbs about which no one has complained about the protection.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 14, 2006 - 05:30pm PT
Crag: This is what I have for FA info....

THE BLOODLINE 5.12a FA: Todd Battey, Dave Evans, Craig Fry and Rob Stahl. March, 1989; FFA: Eric Erickson and Craig Fry.

Does this sound right?
de eee

Mountain climber
Tustin
Apr 17, 2006 - 11:30am PT
Seems like everybody whos anybody has poached a route or three from Dr. F. YEAH!
Fun hangin' with you yesterday Dr. but no more comments about perfect memory, eh?

If you can dish it out, you've got to be able to take it.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Apr 17, 2006 - 02:14pm PT
Crag:

Great seeing you and everyone else.

The Mountain Project (formally ClimbingJTree.com) site is a user created/contribution site. So there are going to be mistakes, omissions and stuff depending on the who originally contributed the info. I doubt that any of these mistakes are intentional.

So the best thing you can do CF is to submit a comments correcting info. Often Chris Miller (one of the site admistrators) incorporates this stuff to the original route posting.
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Apr 18, 2006 - 12:32am PT
Okay, well since we are all coming clean with pastg thefts and questionbaly ethical behavior, I have to admit a serious violation of the ethics guidelines.

I stole the first acsent of the "Beaver", free solo.
EE

Ice climber
Arcadia
Apr 18, 2006 - 01:10am PT
And Dr. F, speaking of theft. Didn't you steal my supergood pal Tarbuster from me, just when things were getting interesting?
EE

Ice climber
land of odd
Apr 18, 2006 - 09:25pm PT
But Dr. F, Tarbuster was my sub-man, not yours. There have been books written about maintaining the pecking order.

Want my reading list?
straightandnarrow

Sport climber
Salt Lake City
Apr 18, 2006 - 10:25pm PT
Dr. F/EE,

Don't bicker over Tarbuster, he's mine! Mr. Buster and I go way back, especially in bed.

Dr. F, you and I sp[ent quite a bit of time making babies; luckily none were made.

Time sure does fly don't it?

Jen
hashbro

Trad climber
Not in Southern California
Apr 20, 2006 - 01:16am PT
Dr. Sketchy,

thanks for all of your great work documenting the historical events of our climbing past. The new Josh West guide is brilliant!

WBraun

climber
Apr 20, 2006 - 01:29am PT
Oh you want to take all the credit for yourself, huh?

You give no credit to your belayer, whom without, you would never have done anything.

Just fucckin with ya man
todd-gordon

climber
Apr 20, 2006 - 01:43am PT
Some people credit the first ascent PARTY or TEAM....doesn't matter who in PARTY or TEAM climbed the damn climb......others people just go with the person or persons who did the climbing AND did the route without hanging or resting or pulling........maybe the first ascent should only be the person who LEAD the climb?... or drilled the bolts?....What???...I personally go with whoever CLIMBED the route (any style...free, aid, hangs, whatever...)for short routes....and first ascent team or party for longer routes......(Team effort, mate...)... sticky business, aint' it?.......Good thing climbers are an honest bunch ; never lie, fabricate, forget, or tell half-truths.......
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Jul 23, 2007 - 01:33am PT


Jim Angione.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
Apple Valley, California
Jul 23, 2007 - 02:14am PT
Does anyone remember when ALF set fire to Pinched Rib??

:)
G_Gnome

Sport climber
Everywhere, man...
Jul 25, 2007 - 05:11pm PT
Was Pinched Rib still 5.8 at the time?
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Jul 25, 2007 - 05:18pm PT
classic thread

LOL'd when i read Fish's

"Originally we used to make the (sheep bugger) noise just to piss off Mooney. For some reason we thought he looked like that goat in a Rowell book that was climbing a 5.9 crack."
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Feb 13, 2010 - 01:54pm PT
Sketchy got the Bloodline info right. We all climbed it at some point, but I don't recall anyone leading it without a fall until I heard about E. I actually drilled at least one bolt (below the one finger hole). I was hanging from a hook on a hold that no longer exists because someone (who shall remain nameless) pulled out on it instead of down ;-) I worked on one of the other bolts as well, but don't remember how much because I am getting old and forgetfull too....at least they were put in from the ground up.
Russ Walling

Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
Nov 16, 2012 - 11:11pm PT
Bump for Dr. F
locker

Social climber
Nov 16, 2012 - 11:13pm PT

^^^

Stalker...

Heard through the Grapevine that he's closely related to that Dahmer fellow...

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