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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Mar 24, 2016 - 03:53pm PT
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The fixed lines were crap in early June 2015. They filled up the links/coldshuts at several anchors so we couldn't use our own lines unless we cut/dropped the junky/core-shotted/knotted fixed lines... I wouldn't mind seeing them removed.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Mar 24, 2016 - 04:01pm PT
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I sure was happy to see them there a while back when I came down and there were 6 parties rapping..not 6 people, 6 groups of people.
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labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
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Mar 24, 2016 - 04:08pm PT
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More anchors is the obvious solution. One set for fixed lines. Another for people using their own ropes.
Or perhaps an elevator?
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travis h
climber
CA
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Mar 24, 2016 - 06:34pm PT
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Here are some photos I took while descending the East Ledges on Sunday, March 20.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 24, 2016 - 08:46pm PT
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Gold!!
And so original, too!
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gstock
climber
Yosemite Valley
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Mar 25, 2016 - 06:27am PT
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Most of the descent routes in Yosemite Valley have been swept by rockfalls over the past several decades, including Leaning Tower, the Gunsight, the Katwalk and Middle/Higher Cathedral Gully, Cathedral Spires Gully, El Cap East Ledges, North Dome Gully, etc. Even if you were going to descend only via the established trails off the rim you would be walking through rockfall-prone areas (take, for example, the 1980 Upper Yosemite Falls Trail rockfall which caused three fatalities and 19 injuries).
Bottom line is that risk from rockfall doesn’t necessarily end at the top of the climb, and climbers should maintain vigilance and caution all the way back to the car (which is when the risk becomes much greater).
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FrankZappa
Trad climber
Hankster's crew
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Mar 25, 2016 - 07:09am PT
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I'm curious as to why folks feel that the descent needs fixed lines?
ie why is it so important to have the lines fixed when one can easily rappel using their own equipment?
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Mar 25, 2016 - 08:19am PT
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Soloists doing multiple carries to get their gear down - this alone would put fixed lines on this descent for much of the season, and their free climbing ropes would be trashed and unsafe in just a few days. Some parties have friends meet them at the top to help carry, hang out, camp, whatever. There are also probably as many base jumpers going up there as freeclimbers. The locals put them there and maintain them. The rangers use them, too. I have never heard about a discussion from them to remove them. Climb there much? No, you don't, and your opinion here on the matter is worthless.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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Mar 25, 2016 - 09:48am PT
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All the argument for the ropes are arguments of convenience. Same with many of the bolted belays next to cracks. I grew up climbing in an area with no bolts or top rope anchors and it sure taught me a lot about building anchors etc...
I know that the situation in Yosemite is unique, but still find it lame that so many climbers are willing to just let the standards slide and take some of the challenge out of the experience in the name of convience. You want convenience? Is Yosemite the McDonalds of big wall climbing? I've always used my own lines to descend because I don't want to deal with a surprise core-shot or passing a knot in the middle of the rap. How many (regularly done) wall routes in the valley still have pitches with gear based anchors? Kinda lame that people are just too lazy to build their own anchor (where safe) or set their own raps. Too much dumbing down, making easy, and murdering of the possible if you ask me. Fux those lines, make people live up to the challenge rather than bringing the challenge down to the lowest common denominator!
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canyoncat
Social climber
SoCal
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Mar 25, 2016 - 12:41pm PT
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Woot-boy likes to spend other people's money. Keeping it classy, Grifter Style.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Mar 25, 2016 - 02:13pm PT
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Woot-boy likes to spend other people's money.
I wonder how the sum total of all funds ever donated to Erik's paypal would compare to the hourly total of employer's money wasted on ST's top 20 posters.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Mar 25, 2016 - 04:11pm PT
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Is Yosemite the McDonalds of big wall climbing?&
Yes. And every bit as crowded.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 25, 2016 - 05:16pm PT
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There are rappel anchors further down from the regular rappel anchors.
I've gone that way when the regular rap rappel is tied up with slow parties descending.
Two full rope length raps to the ground.
The fixed ropes have also been used to ascend the east ledges for quick access to the top for rescue personnel in stormy weather when helo flights were grounded.
Clint's photo below shows in red the rap anchor further down from the regular one.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 25, 2016 - 05:27pm PT
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We are all following along , 'Raptley'35 yrs ago there were fixed lines there and plenty of other places too,Ya' want it to be more pure, not in the realm . . .
when climbers are at the helm
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 25, 2016 - 05:30pm PT
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LOL .....
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 25, 2016 - 05:51pm PT
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Always good to see the viewpoint of someone who has been climbing around the Valley probably more than any other person!
Too bad there are not more useful Valley climbing threads on this forum.
If it helps, one of the things that makes it easier to stay off non-climbing threads here is that instead
I visit several other forums and even facebook (many climbers on there these days).
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Mar 25, 2016 - 06:20pm PT
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Sh#t,
Now how do I get rid of this smoking duck avatar?
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Mar 25, 2016 - 08:17pm PT
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To echo Werner's... comments the 'eastern' rap route which is the red line in Clint's photo is either 3 or 4 165' raps. Note that there are no fixed ropes, but you can do the rap with double 50's. By my estimates you can't do these raps with a single 60, 70, 80 or 90m rope.
The first rap is down the low angle slab at a big tree with slings and links right where you head over to the start of the 'western' rap. The rap is around 150'. You can also down climb or belay this section as the difficulty is low 5th class. If you have a haul bag you probably want to rap with the bag on your back rather than lower it.
The second rap is a full 165' down the face and ends on a moderate sized ledge. Traverse right(northeast) about 20-25'(you are still clipped into the rap rope) over to the next anchor.
The third rap is about 150' to a small tree with slings and rings.
The fourth rap is about 70' to the ledge system at the base of East Ledges route. Traverse west back over toward the 'western' rap route and follow 3rd and 4th class ledges down 100-150' to the trail.
People sometimes make the mistake of trying to rappel from the bottom of the fourth rappel(and leaving their own gear), but if you traverse west you can avoid doing that.
Did I get that right Clint?
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jstan
climber
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Mar 25, 2016 - 08:28pm PT
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I'm leaving my avatar photo. I am going to remember this nonsense.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 25, 2016 - 11:26pm PT
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Too bad there are not more useful Valley climbing threads on this forum. I agree and it is very sad. No one even really curious anymore. I remember golden time - ask something and Clint reply in 10 min with detail photos, descriptions, and old schoolers drop the stories..
WTF I am doing here?
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