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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 10, 2016 - 10:57pm PT
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Alaska and the Yukon
Mount Saint Elias, Abruzzi Ridge Done maybe 4 times?
Mount Fairweather, Carpé Ridge Done twice?
Mount Hunter, West Ridge Done 4 times?
Denali, Cassin Ridge Uber classic
Moose’s Tooth, West Ridge Dangerous but meh
Mount Huntington, West Face 5.9 A2 with “severe snow and ice”
Anything on Huntington is classic
Mount Logan, Hummingbird Ridge Can death routes be classics?
Middle Triple Peak, East Buttress VI 5.9 A3 Done twice?
Western Canada
Mount Sir Donald, Northwest Arete III 5.2 Definitely
Bugaboo Spire, East Ridge III 5.7 Pretty classic
South Howser Tower, West Buttress V 5.8 A2 or 5.10 Duh
Mount Robson, Wishbone Arete V 5.6 Yes!
Mount Edith Cavell, North Face IV 5.7 Easiest big N face is worthy
Mount Alberta, Japanese Route V 5.6 Mostly a descent route
Mount Temple, East Ridge IV 5.7 Anything on Temple
Mount Waddington, South Face V 5.7 It is Fred's route, right?
Devils Thumb, East Ridge IV 5.6 The Devil made me do it!
Lotus Flower Tower V 5.8 A2 or 5.10 Hard to surpass
The Pacific Northwest
Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge Good descent route or ski piste
Forbidden Peak, West Ridge II 5.6 Meh - replace with Goode NE Buttress
Mount Shuksan, Price Glacier Maybe Fred does smoke?
Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress V 5.9 A2 Waay over-rated but big
Mount Stuart, North Ridge III 5.9 Noice if you do the whole thang.
Liberty Bell Mountain, Liberty Crack V 5.9 A3 Sweet line
Wyoming
Devil’s Tower, Durrance Route II 5.6-5.7 Meh
Grand Teton, North Ridge IV 5.7 I guess so
Grand Teton, Direct Exum Ridge III 5.6 Nice for n00bs
Grand Teton, North Face IV 5.8 Historic = classic, I guess
Mount Moran, Direct South Buttress IV 5.7 A3 I guess so
Pingora, Northeast Face IV 5.8 Worth the walk?
Wolf's Head, East Ridge II 5.5 Ditto
Colorado
Crestone Needle, Ellingwood Ledges III 5.7 Bring yer hoe
Hallett Peak, Northcutt-Carter Route III 5.7 Good tuneup for Canadian Rockies
Petit Grepon, South Face III 5.7 Pretty sweet
Longs Peak, The Diamond, D1 V 5.7 A4 or 5.12a Yeah, pretty classic
The Southwest
Shiprock, III 5.7 A2 or 5.9 Mega
Castleton Tower, Kor-Ingalls Route III 5.9 Looks cool
Fisher Towers, The Titan, Finger of Fate, IV 5.8 A3 Didn't Jeremy's mom do it?
California
The Royal Arches, Royal Arches Route III 5.6 A1 or 5.9 Fred was definitely smoking
Lost Arrow Spire, Spire Chimney III 5.5 A3 or 5.10 A2 If you enjoy a good thrash
Sentinel Rock, Steck-Salathe Route V 5.9 A3 Just lock me in the closet for a few hours
Middle Cathedral Rock, East Buttress IV 5.9 A1 or 5.10 POS
Half Dome, Northwest Face VI 5.9 A3 or 5.12 It doesn't even require a rope!
El Capitan, Nose Route VI 5.11 A3 "Mommy, it smells bad here!"
El Capitan, Salathé Wall VI 5.10 A3 Ticks all the boxes
Mount Whitney, East Face III 5.7 Uh, no.
Fairview Dome, North Face III-IV 5.9 Classic queues
Clyde Minaret, Southeast Face IV 5.8 Looks cooler than it is?
Charlotte Dome, South Face III 5.7 Too Far To Walk Rock
Lover's Leap, Traveler Buttress II 5.9 Fred's idea of a joke?
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RyanD
climber
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Jan 10, 2016 - 11:06pm PT
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^^^
Great info Reily.
Cmac put u back on payroll for 2016 or something?
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Dan McDevitt
Trad climber
yosemite
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Jan 10, 2016 - 11:21pm PT
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But this probably would be useful for visitors to the US:
"50 best long free climbs of North America for the 5.6-5.8 climber"
"...for the 5.9-5.10 climber"
...for the 5.11-5.12 climber"
this seems like a great idea Phylp!
50 great routes in each catagory, then you can pick the route to the grade you most enjoy
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jan 11, 2016 - 12:27am PT
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Reilly
Roper and Steck wrote 50 Classics, not Uncle Fred.
No, the S Face of Wadd is not one of UF's routes. He and his brother made the 2nd asc. FA was done by House and Weissner.
Uncle Fred recently wrote "100 Favourite North American Climbs". Somewhat biased, as one might expect, but worth a look. The selection is limited to climbs which he has done himself, so is not all inclusive--although he had thousands to choose from. None of the routes are marked on the photos, making it hard to determine where the face climbs are located. Lots to do there.......
Cheers!
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Bababata
Mountain climber
Utopia
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Jan 11, 2016 - 02:50am PT
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Nice post, Rgold!
Given the criteria and what I've climbed personally, I'd get rid of the EB of Middle Cathedral, the Royal Arches, Traverler's Buttress (these three don't even reach true summits), and Fairview Dome... and I'd replace them with Positive Vibes, Epinephrine, the Rostrum, and Snake Dike, all of which have better climbing, appearance and exposure (plus some great history).
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 11, 2016 - 04:19am PT
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the book is what it is. a great read and an inspiration to the new climbers of the eightys. there is Zero need to change anything about it. A modern book would start from scratch and be completly different. If the book was at all succesfull it would probobly ruin a bunch of climbs....
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Jan 11, 2016 - 06:24am PT
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Why leave out Eastern Canada? Thor and Asgard were climbed in 1953 and other routes put up in the mid '60s. Could have been called "...of Western North America".
Very clever, Reilly.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jan 11, 2016 - 07:07am PT
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Those formations in Baffin are out of this world. God put them there for the sole purpose of tempting climbers.
Really striking.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 11, 2016 - 07:36am PT
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Hamie, they had to have consulted with Uncle Fred as there's no way those guys would have
included some of those heaps like Price Glacier and Crestone Needle. And how else to explain
Waddington S Face and Royal Arches?
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Jan 11, 2016 - 07:36am PT
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First, you may not choose two routes on same formation.
As others have said, you need ice routes.
You have nothing on east coast, think about that.
There are plenty of 1-5 pitch classics you skip all over, but routes to be here must be 3 pitches minimum
there should also be two lists,
mortals- one that can be done
immortal- best line but hard-
think like Ken Wilson.
//special place in my world for triple crown, totem pole (original route), cleo, spider rock.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 11, 2016 - 07:43am PT
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Rick D. apparently you know little about ice...
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 11, 2016 - 08:05am PT
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Most suggestions here say even this new book should be named "50 Ancient Climbs" - for those interested in continually reliving the past.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 11, 2016 - 08:06am PT
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Great post, Reilly - very funny!
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Jan 11, 2016 - 08:15am PT
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East Face of Whitney & Royal Arches can go.
I disagree Chris, If only from an historical perspective.
There should be more ice routes, both pure, and mixed.
Widows Tears? Even though it only forms sporadically.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jan 11, 2016 - 08:41am PT
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...there are no climbs done after 1970 in the book. Actually, Middle Triple was done in 77, I think there may be 1-2 others.
That's the biggest issue with the book today, is that it was published before the free climbing revolution.
Modern climbers are interested in working their way through the free climbs - Naked Edge, Astroman, Moonlight, etc.
The magic and popularity of 50 CC is the apprenticeship it so masterfully laid out. Here is a step by step book, follow this path - from the Royal Arches to Middle Triple.
But today it's nearly irrelevant. The sport now is all about free climbing.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 11, 2016 - 08:44am PT
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Just leave the book alone, Mr Grumpy, Write your own.
This + 100.
You can't "rewrite" it, the book is it's own snapshot in time. Anyone can write their own "list" guidebook. Self-publishing has made that possible. Get busy, put out your own book, then stand back and reap the maelstrom of climbers demonstrating that they can't agree on anything, most especially a list of "classic" climbs.
The sport now is all about free climbing.
Says the lumberjack of the tree.
I bet there are those that would say the sport is all about bouldering... and others that would say it's all about mixed... and...
It's all climbing.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 11, 2016 - 08:51am PT
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Certainly, I'd exchange NE Butt of Higher for East Butt of Middle Cat. Or Braille Book.
Traveler's at the Leap? Hmm, surely there are many that are more classic than that.
Something at the CA Needles, for sure. Atlantis or Don Juan Wall are just a couple. Spooky, if you're looking for a moderate.
J-Tree is a pile of piles, nothing there classic enough to rank in the top 50. But City of Rocks? Perhaps, but those are just piles too.
As for writing another book, there are several--but it sure is fun thinking of your favorite 50.
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Jan 11, 2016 - 08:54am PT
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^^^ so whatever happened to the book, Chris?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jan 11, 2016 - 08:55am PT
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.. is there a book called '50 favorite climbs' which has a really cool list of climbs?
50 Classic n00b Climbs, that's the title bro.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!