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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 10, 2015 - 11:35am PT
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That does suck! Nice guy! Scarpelli introduced us, less than amonth ago!
Be careful out there!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 10, 2015 - 01:41pm PT
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Very sad to read this. When I started climbing in the Valley in the late 1960's, almost all the fatalities were already rappelling accidents. The Madsen tragedy and a fatal breaking of rappel slings on Goodrich Pinnacle were the next ones after I started, so I've always been wary of rappelling.
In the original Roper A Climber's Guide to Yosemite Valley, David Brower had a publisher's preface that we snickered at because most of what it said seemed obvious and old-fashioned, but it had one statement that I've always kept in mind. Regarding rappel slings, he said to use those in place only if you know it's new, tied with the correct amount of slack, etc. Otherwise it's safer to supply your own, remembering the price if it fails.
John
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Sep 10, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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Has this accident been clinically assessed yet? From up-thread it was hinted/suggested that the anchors did not fail.
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yedi
Trad climber
Stanwood,wa
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Sep 10, 2015 - 06:17pm PT
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Really sad, my condolences to family and friends. I always really disliked rappelling and walking off was always my first choice if at all possible. If not, every anchor was scrutinized heavily by both of us. Then double checked.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 10, 2015 - 06:24pm PT
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Jaybro, that was the Keith out in Vedauwoo with Scarpelli mid August?? Man... really nice guy. Patty and I spent a little while talking to him one day after Scarpelli split for the day. RIP
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 10, 2015 - 06:40pm PT
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Yes Sced, same guy. I met him the same way, from Bob. Ed Oak and I talked to him about climbing and guiding, afer Scarp split. I sent Bob a condolence text which he responded back to.
So sad!
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clockclimb
Trad climber
Orem, Utah
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Sep 16, 2015 - 09:53pm PT
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It's a small world. The girl I was climbing with at Cirque of the Towers just bumped into one of the search and rescue people who did the body recovery. This fellow investigated the anchor that failed as the two victims were retreating from the Northeast face. She didn't get details from him but it sounded like they were using an old existing rappel anchor. The second was also tied into it so when it failed they both went. It hits close to home since I have bailed from the same route before due to weather.
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couchmaster
climber
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Sep 17, 2015 - 08:19am PT
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What a terrible thing to have occur. Sorry for the loved ones. I'd be curious to know what the investigation turns up. Donini's hair raising story a few years back of nearly buying the farm on a rap should be enough to make anyones hands shake and pants be soiled.
The old Hill Street Blues admonition applies: "Hey, be careful out there".
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 17, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
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Anyone hear any more details on what happened?
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Sep 19, 2015 - 07:01pm PT
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So sorry
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Sep 20, 2015 - 02:52pm PT
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Here is a post on MP from Jonathan MacDonald's wife. The thread, which otherwise parallels this one, is at http://www.mountainproject.com/v/pingora-fatalities/110962003 .
"As far as anyone has been able to tell (NOLS/Search and Rescue/Coroner, the men were not feeling confident enough to finish the climb. It was about 1-2pm, and they decided they needed to go back down. When they were rappelling the rope seemed to have gotten stuck and Jon went up to get it unstuck. Sometime while either going up to get the rope or right after he got the rope unstuck he fell. The amount of slack in the rope made his fall greater than normal, causing that much more weight on the rope and anchors. All of the ropes and webbing were intact. The cause has been put to safety anchor failure. The rock came away from the face and then men both fell. The fall was from 150-300 feet. I may not be accurate in all my wording (Jon was a much better climber than I am), but the men were very good climbers and this was supposed to be an exhilarating, yet easy climb. The few pictures we have of the ascent shows some bloody arms and hands from earlier in the climb. It is possible earlier falls had made it too tiring or difficult to finish the climb.
These were both amazing men, fathers, husbands, and climbers. They both loved teaching others to climb (Jon taught me). They were not dare devils and were safe climbers. Jon would be the first to tell someone if they were making a stupid mistake climbing and help to correct it.
If anyone finds a Saint charm (as in Catholic saint) near the base or on the face, Keith's family would really like it. You can message me to get it to them.
Please be safe! Don't take climbing lightly. Believe me, you have a really shitty 20 seconds as you fall, but we have to pick up the pieces and raise the children alone and somehow teach our children the same thing that killed you, because you loved it so much."
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Sep 20, 2015 - 09:17pm PT
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I'm bumping this to give a little more exposure to the request for the Saint charm if it can be found...
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 21, 2015 - 08:46am PT
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Thanks for posting that MP link rgold. Patty and I had met both Keith and Jonathon at Vedauwoo about 2 weeks before this. We are both very sad about the accident.
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