Lover's Leap/Phantom Spires - Impact of recent fire?

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
This thread has been locked
Messages 61 - 80 of total 95 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
Litter carried out was empty which made us think it was a recovery. Happily we were wrong...only patient was flown out. Looked like a fun route you were on...how was it?
GoMZ

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jul 31, 2015 - 08:30pm PT
Aww missed you by a day Jebus, hope all is well with you friend.
GoMZ

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jul 31, 2015 - 08:38pm PT
I will! Sounds like it was interesting. Was looking at that route yesterday on mtnproject. We should get out climbing man. You know I'm in slt now.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 08:44pm PT
Looked like a cool route. Sorry it was a veggie route. Saw some crazy scenes today. HH is in order!
GoMZ

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Jul 31, 2015 - 08:50pm PT
Glad you guys are alright, and hope you had a good dayclimbing.

seems like people bite it at the start of that route pretty frequently.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Aug 1, 2015 - 12:59pm PT

Callie on vacation? Climbing?
What's this world coming to?????

hee hee hee. . .

I hope you & BN are havin' a great trip--I wanna see
pictures when you guys get back!
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Aug 1, 2015 - 06:23pm PT

seems like people bite it at the start of that route pretty frequently.

I wish someone(Petch) would put a bolt on that thing!! I've personally have helped carry two broken bodies off there. And watched 4-5 others flown out. SUCKS!

I say this only cuz off the decking potential on bad gear. And I don't think it even has an "R" or an "X" rating?

A bolt is only 5 bucks. Don't clip it if you don't want too.
Norwegian

Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
Aug 1, 2015 - 06:36pm PT
or how about this?

employ common climbing sense
and if there is only 1 piece
between you and the ground
and you are about to pull
the crux of the route,

throw a second piece in.

it's got your back.

no bolt required.
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Aug 1, 2015 - 10:06pm PT
The crux of The Line is not that difficult . . . unfortunately 5.9 can be pretty unforgiving. Bolting the crux would desecrate the route. The aspiring leader is responsible for developing the necessary skills to ascend the route safely . . . or not.



Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Aug 1, 2015 - 10:16pm PT
If you are decking on Farley, you probably should not be trying to lead it . . . the individual is responsible for developing the required ability.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Aug 2, 2015 - 07:16am PT
BB......no bolt necessary the crux of the Line is well protected and can be backed up to hold a dory, as the Norwegian says simply put in two pieces between you and the ground. Sorry to hear about the fall and hope they heal fast and well.
Crimpergirl

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
Adios LL. Strolling in Truckee now....
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Aug 2, 2015 - 02:48pm PT
My old hometown, love that place!
ecflau

Gym climber
CA
Aug 3, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
I got 3 pieces of gear in before the crux

I could definitely see someone who doesn't have a lot of experience (esp pro on LL can be a little more tricky as its not as smooth as splitter Yosemite cracks) place a shitty cam and it blows. When I did the Line (finally), I was pretty solid on 5.9 and usually 5.9 is cruiser for me, but I definitely found it more awkward then hard, and more than once after placing a piece, I inspected it and had to fix it. I would say no bolt needed, but would definitely recommend the leader to be a pretty confident 5.10 climber before attempting this route.

Kind of rough cause LL is usually the place to start for a new aspiring trad climber because of the easier grades, but I actually found that I had to be a little more careful with pro at LL then Yosemite... either way, I was glad that I waited and got a few years of trad experience before doing the Line, if I did it earlier on when I was just graduating out of a gym, I could see it being scary.
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Aug 3, 2015 - 03:12pm PT

"Its ONLY 5.9" is the thought?

Is it tho? Despite the gear factor. It is a large percentage of climbers that whip on that so-called "5.9". I've heard 5.10+ climbers have to hang there. It's not a gimmie on the On-sight. It's gotta atleast be as hard as the Exorcist 10a in JT? And as far as the pro, it's atleast precarious Mama Woolsey which is rated 10a R. And MW's moves only feel 5.9 to me.

I mostly just feel The Line's 5.9 rating is JINGUS! Fantasia, and MDA both have a 5.9 R rating and I haven't heard of anybody getting hurt on either one of those? Maybe because the nOObs investigate a rte a little deeper with an "R" rating! And causes them to bridle the "plug-n-go" attitude.

If the crux was 50 or 100 ft up this would be a nonissue. But since it is 15-20ft of the deck. And being there has been 30+ people HIT THE DECK (and have to be carried or flown out) seems relatively easy to predict more will crater in the future : ( With a bolt 4-5ft below the first piece, this would prolly never happen again : )

We certainly should have some sortof modern standard to asses the legitamacy of the First Ascensionist standard for describing a rating.. And bring about an honorable way to "adjust" the rating?

There are lots of really good 5.6 - 5.9 face climbs at Josh that were put up by 5.12 climbers who only put 1 bolt right in the middle of a 50ft climb (so they never get done). So what's the reason for putting up a rte like this?? To cheap and lazy to put in 3-4 more bolts? OR, just put in the one to prove your boldness on 5.9 while being a 5.12 climber?

I realize it takes arrogance for some to reach the summit, and for others, humility. Is it really unanimous that each subsequent ascention be in the same tradition?
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Aug 3, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
I've been on the Line only once. I found one solid piece of gear a ways up but it would not keep you off the ground if you blew the crux. I found a thin piece of gear (can't remember if it was a small stopper or a small cam) right at the crux. Either way it was a small piece of gear and not 100% bomber IMO. I would not have been willing to climb hard enough to fall on it. I found the climbing just easy enough that it was not likely that I was going to test that piece. If I had fallen and that piece had popped, I would have hit the ground. No way did I find enough gear at the start to keep 2 pieces between me and the ground. It is not surprising to me that people deck on that route with some regularity. A bolt is not the answer, but I think it is a route that warrants strong caution for the 5.9 leader.
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Aug 3, 2015 - 04:34pm PT
You slot a stopper just before the crux. The trick is to set it deep and give at downward yank to set then a short sling or quick draw and its bomber. When I first led that in '71 there were a number of fixed pins and I believe one there. Actually the stopper slot was enhanced by pin placements. As far as difficulty; it is certainly easier than many comparable thin crack climbs at the Leap like April Fools and Rednecks.
Alpamayo

Trad climber
Davis, CA
Aug 3, 2015 - 04:58pm PT
I'm pretty sure that is exactly what I did. But still, it is a small stopper, not super confidence inspiring IMO. If you fall and it pulls, you are hitting the deck. I saw no way to keep a second piece between me and the ground. Like I said, a bolt is not the answer, but that start is not good for 5.9-limit climbers and I am not surprised that there are accidents with some regularity.
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Aug 3, 2015 - 05:36pm PT

When I first led that in '71 there were a number of fixed pins and I believe one there. Actually the stopper slot was enhanced by pin placements.

So your obliged to the notion that the protection isn't "natural" and infact has been "enhanced"?

So using The Line as an example, what would you say(having history and her facts to set on the table) is the higher ethical road to take in the future?

1. The chiseling out of a crack until it can accept "natural" gear.

2. The placing of a bolt next to the gear unaccepting Natural crack.

Inquisitive minds would like to know ; )
Bad Climber

climber
Aug 3, 2015 - 05:58pm PT
@Blue:

I wish someone(Petch) would put a bolt on that thing!! I've personally have helped carry two broken bodies off there. And watched 4-5 others flown out. SUCKS!

A bolt should (and would be) pulled and patched immediately. I'm far from any kind of super stud, but I've done that route many, many times, starting 37 years ago and repeated again last year. The first time I was 16 (without chalk, too, though I'm a total white-hands guy now), and it was always fine. A stopper with a short draw is BOMBER at that first crux--totally bomber. It's deep, constricting perfectly, just a great, great piece, and you can get a piece or two in before as well. Anyone getting seriously hurt has made some serious mistakes. Climbing is dangerous, people. Build your skills and take your chances. Glad the person had a helmet on. Sorry she decked. Let's hope for the best.

BAd
Messages 61 - 80 of total 95 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
 
Our Guidebooks
spacerCheck 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks

guidebook icon
Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta