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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 26, 2015 - 08:56pm PT
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Just arrived near this destination to learn about the fire. We'd been disconnected in the woods of the Uintas so we were unaware. We know the first is 80% contained, but what does this mean precisely for finding camp sites, and climbing at Lover's Leap and nearby places like Phantom Spires?
Would love to hear a local's expertise.
Also, any good places you would recommend to get an excellent internet connection for 2-3 hour conference call when I'm in the area? It's not really something I want to sit in a restaurant to do. Thoughts?
Thanks in advance.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2015 - 09:01pm PT
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^ Good to hear! We were hoping to stop in Carson City tonight and see if you could grab dinner. Instead we are enjoying beeeeautiful Fernely NV. :) Maybe next time.
Thoughts on conference call locale?
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2015 - 09:07pm PT
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Never been here before - I do admit to liking the name a lot. Nonetheless, I don't think it'll be on the retirement short list. :)
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jonnyrig
climber
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Jul 26, 2015 - 09:42pm PT
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There are sights to see along the way. Iron Butte, Dinosaur Rock, All the great climbing around Tahoe, naturally. Depending what kind of food you like, there are a couple nice little restaurants in Carson that are pretty decent.
Mom and Pops right in downtown has a decent breakfast, and Red Hut on the south side has some wicked jalepeno bacon, though it's about a buck a strip. If you find yourself in South Shore at lunch time, Cold Water brewery just over on the California side has some darn good fish and chips.
Conference call? In Ferntucky? Hmmm... short of one of the truck stops there, I duno. Anywhere you get a decent signal, I guess. Been so long since I lived out there it's all different now.
Hope you have a good trip, and don't get smoked out. Lots of fires burning around the state these days. Remember if your camping on forest service land, fire restrictions are high. Only in designated campgrounds. Though I believe you can still use a portable stove with a fire permit, which you can get as you pass through Carson at the forest service office. Have fun!
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 26, 2015 - 10:05pm PT
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Holy smokes! You guys are local and heading Lovers Leap way, then I'd recommend a visit to Woodfords and One of the Days wall. I'm pretty sure brassnuts would get a kick out of that, and it's right on the way. There's a fair share of easy to moderate single pitch routes too just a ten minute approach from parking lot. Also there's excellent camping there with really no restrictions. See the Woodfords thread. Weather's supposed to be very nice too!
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-119.83710&lat=38.76890#.VbW8OfmIkpU
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1103924/Woodfords-Canyon
Also, check out that pic and pitch on the first page - the Big Bad Wolf. To the best of my knowledge it still hasn't gone free, either lead or top rope, lots of wide and that narrow slightly overhanging chimney ceiling's the badness. I bet it's right in brassnut's wheelhouse though! It's on the south facing side however so it would probably require a very early morning effort (with 40 minute approach).
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2015 - 10:14pm PT
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Great stuff everyone - thanks a lot. I wish I didn't have to fool with the conference stuff, but I still have to pretend to be a grown-up on occasion. :)
It'll be my first trip to LL and nearby areas (except Donner's Summit). Looking forward to it. I hear there is nothing but crimps in this part of the state, right? :) heh heh.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
Shitalkqua, WA
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Jul 26, 2015 - 10:57pm PT
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Highway 50 billboard
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2015 - 06:49am PT
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Snort!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jul 27, 2015 - 07:25am PT
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bunny ranch is no vacancy.
though the climbers ranch in
strawberry is empty.
pm me crimp if you need
a warm bath and a cold beer
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jul 27, 2015 - 07:28am PT
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Take him up on that Callie!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2015 - 07:54am PT
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Hope we get to run into all of you!
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Jul 27, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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You'll have great service at the leap and the bunny ranch has free wifi (with qualifying purchase) so you really can't go wrong.
and woodfordsX2
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2015 - 08:50am PT
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I can't wait to give the Dept of Justice the Bunny Ranches phone number in case we are disconnected during our calls! Ha!!
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squishy
Mountain climber
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Jul 27, 2015 - 10:12am PT
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I stopped in the strawberry lodge the other day..omg, it's so bad now, just avoid it altogether..the food sucked, the service was bad and it was over priced..trifecta of suckage, it's so sad, the place was cool once...although the new climbing shop and store across the street kicks ass! They have great gear and beer..
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2015 - 10:28am PT
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Excellent beta!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
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Lovers Leap has service at the camp ground! Awesome!!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2015 - 12:50pm PT
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BrassNuts has a list...he says "only the desperates!!" Ha! Big peregrine closure (I am good with that). He is looking at options now....I am guessing up to the 5.11s at most.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Jul 27, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
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Have a good time at the Leap!
ATT has full LTE bars - Verizon is probably good also. Strawberry Lodge is walking distance - food, beer, wifi, and $5 showers. Also visit the market across the street.
Put Scimitar 5.9 on your tick list!
If it's a hot day, crag at Dear John Buttress - great climbs in the shade!
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jul 27, 2015 - 01:11pm PT
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+ 25 for Squirrel at the store/gas station.
BAd
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2015 - 01:32pm PT
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Great stuff! Thanks everyone. We are at site 17 if you are around. Birds are good fun here too!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 27, 2015 - 01:38pm PT
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At the Leap! Kewl!!!
Love the Leap!!! Mrs Monkey loved the Leap too!! It's on our list of places we need to go back to!! Say hey to BN!! Hope he's keeping the Old Chub cold!!!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2015 - 01:45pm PT
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Will do. He needs to get online here!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 27, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
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Brassnuts here....looking for a partner here at Leap or somewhere near (9 to easy 11s) on Wed 7/29 and Thurs 7/30 while CG is busy with her conference calls. Post here since the email on the topo sometimes does not work.
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10b4me
Social climber
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Jul 27, 2015 - 02:25pm PT
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I can't wait to give the Dept of Justice the Bunny Ranches phone number in case we are disconnected during our calls! Ha!!
I hope they don't get it mixed up with the Moonlight Bunny Ranch #. :-)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 27, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
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Brassnuts here....looking for a partner here at Leap or somewhere near (9 to easy 11s) on Wed 7/29 and Thurs 7/30 while CG is busy with her conference calls.
I'm in!
Or at least I would be if I was there...like Locker...I better bail!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jul 27, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
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Candyland and Steppin' Stone at Phantom Spires are true classics. There's a less visited area called Wright's Lake a few miles past Phantom Spires, if you're interested in getting off the beaten path. however, if you've never climbed at the Leap, I'd definitely go there first, it has many great routes, and some fun bouldering near the camp, too.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Jul 27, 2015 - 04:24pm PT
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Ah you'll probably already be gone but we will be there next Sunday the 2nd for a few days. Friends from Josh will also be there.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jul 27, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
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ah. i'll be climbing
piss pitch poles the next 3 days.
have fun.
do hospital corner
and the line.
surrealistic direct.
east corner is great.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Jul 27, 2015 - 08:10pm PT
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"The owner is one and the same Mr Dennis Hoff. Who BANNED me for life from his businesses. Im proud of that too! ;-)"
Now that sounds like a great story!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jul 27, 2015 - 09:09pm PT
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Did Scimitar this afternoon after getting settled into camp, excellent and interesting route. More fun tomorrow, routes TBD. If anyone would like to rope up weds/Thurs post up and we'll get out. Cheers.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2015 - 07:12am PT
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In case anyone is interested...that route is no face route!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jul 28, 2015 - 07:23am PT
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Air quality was good yesterday, slight breeze, a little hazy now and then. This morning is breezy with clear blue skies...
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2015 - 05:44pm PT
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Fun day out today. Still looking for partners to climb with BN at the Leap, Woodfords, or any So. Tahoe area.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Jul 28, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
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Just go across the road to Strawberry Station when they open in the morning, fire pit and chairs on the side, Squirrel and Mrs Squirrel inside... go inside, ask for climbing partners. .. also pick up a really great photo of LL with the routes on it.
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Jul 28, 2015 - 06:30pm PT
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Agree, support Squirrel. Best shop in the area...oh yeah, the only one.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2015 - 06:42pm PT
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Great! Happened to go and meet squirrel before we even saw your posts. Cool shop and nice guy! Will be back in the morning for some coffee!!!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 28, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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Today, because poor BrassNuts is climbing with his sport-wanker wife, we turned the volumne down and did the first pitch of Traveler Buttress then went right and did Corrugation Corner. Yeah - that was no sport route or face climb either! haha! The wide flaring beasty section of Traveler Buttress was cruel, but other than that, I passed as a hardman trad climber for the rest of the route. :) Fun day and all new pitches for both of us. Hardly anyone around either. It's really beautiful here. :)
Other than an exciting conference call tomorrow, not sure what we'll do.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jul 28, 2015 - 09:01pm PT
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Craven Image and Hospital Corner are really good.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 29, 2015 - 06:18am PT
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If you are into hiking and/or trails, a walk or run up Mt Tallac offers excellent views of surrounding areas, including of course Lake Tahoe to the East and Desolation Wilderness to the West. Trailhead is just north of Camp Richardson. Trail is well kept, akin to the Tahoe Rim Trail or climbing approach trails in Tuolumne. A run is about 1 hr 30 to the top. Have fun!
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jul 29, 2015 - 06:28am PT
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Definitely do Hospital Corner--but don't rap. Continue up the Slash--a little funky--to Dead Tree Direct. This is a classic, right up the center of the highest part of the Leap.
BAd
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jul 29, 2015 - 08:25am PT
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Hello CG and BN!!
Wish I could be there!!!
Just wanted to add to the fray..
I'm sure you already have many options but wanted to add a few..
Dear John Buttress has a couple of fun routes!
Great afternoon shade and really fun short cracks at God of Thunder area..doing the first pitch
only there are three variations..
.9,.10a,.11b all within 8-10' of each other..
Also..If Surrealistic Pillar or direct( FA Jello1969!) is occupied,
Sinbad-Herbert .10a is 50' to the right and mostly shaded. Fun jamming and stemming with dykes(shocker!)..
The Groove .7 another 100' or so up and right of Surrealistic area..morning shade..great option to the "cruise" linkup to which Ron referred.
This thing swallows wires like no other. Put up by Royal's Rockcraft instructors in the 1970's..
Who knows for sure who did the FA??
Paging Roger Breedlove??...(he was an instructor there I believe) Peter Haan too?!?
Bolted anchor at 100' for people who don't want to top out semi runout 5.4..
I often used this as the approach to Traveller's Corrugation Hospital Corner etc..
Don't forget Sugarloaf too!!! No dykes here.. But amazingly good granite!!
My favorites there include:
The Fracture .10d mostly fingers (actually the first pitch of Grand Illusion.13c/d, with the crux roof mockingly poised another 100' or so above you)
Taurus .11b (FA Mark Hudon and Max Jones) fingery/bouldery start to beautiful undercling flake..
These 2 routes are a mere 25'-30' apart as well. Late afternoon spot for sure if you like shade..
Farley .9 (FA Eric Beck and Steve Roper) is an amazing flake a couple of routes left. Also afternoon shade..
Those three alone are worth the approach..
I think Norwegian has rope-soloed all three of these routes..
Dominion .10a (Gene Drake RIP?)is also a great route over near East Chimney and you can get a good look at
Captain Fingers.12+ (FA Mark Hudon) a stunning and unique overhanging serrated flake surrounded by colorful lichen.. The climb is out of my league but the rock is So beautiful..
Climbing Magazine cover route..
For morning shade at Sugarloaf:
Pony Express .9 is a fun 2-pitches (.8,.9)
Hyperspace .10b (FA Jay Smith and Richard Harrison RIP) thin crack to undercling. Fun!!
Weeg rope soloed these also!!
Have a look at Fat Merchant's Crack .10b++ (FA Royal Robbins) on your way back down. Never did it cuz it looks BURLY!!
I think Weeg free-soloed this thing ( along with the likes of Royal Robbins and I'm sure other Hardmen..
Fingerlock .10b (FA Jim Orey) on the Sugarbun is great fun too..early morning shade..
BN has probably climbed all these great routes already!! ;)
Sorry for such a long post!!
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jul 29, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jul 29, 2015 - 08:44am PT
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jul 29, 2015 - 08:58am PT
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Cool, thanks for all the suggestions, much appreciated!
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Jul 29, 2015 - 09:10am PT
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Ron..
What did you use for the start of The Fracture when aiding without microcams the initial flake?
I seem to remember a zero cam at the start.. But it's been 14 years.. Hehehe.
Did you just boulder out the start?
Thanks BTW Ron this thing eats wires sooo well at the crux...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jul 29, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
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Rollover,
I don't know who did the first ascent of The Groove up and right of Surrealistic Pillar. It may have been done before I started working for Royal. Dick Erb worked for Royal from the beginning of RockCraft and would probably remember who put it up.
This is the link to his ST member profile Dick Erb
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GoMZ
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Jul 29, 2015 - 01:36pm PT
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Brass Nuts, I am available to climb tomorrow (thursday) if you're still looking for a partner. I live about 15 minutes away in South Lake. There are others on this forum who can vouch for me as far as safety/experience goes. Call or text me or respond here if you're interested 760-914-1479
Thanks,
Steve
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jul 29, 2015 - 02:51pm PT
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Hey Steve, Thurs would be great! A route at the leap would be best logistically if that interests you. I'll give you a call this afternoon, thanks! Dave
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jul 30, 2015 - 11:40am PT
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How's the smoke up there????
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
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Hi Mike! No smoke at all. Mild temps today. Really nice!
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GoMZ
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Jul 30, 2015 - 08:03pm PT
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Had a great day climbing with you Dave, and it was nice meeting you Callie. Hope our paths cross again soon!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Save your a_s, reach for the brass...
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Jul 30, 2015 - 08:22pm PT
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Thanks for getting out today Steve, good fun! Enjoy your van and see you again I'm sure, cheers!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 04:29pm PT
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Someone took a digger on the Line today. Best wishes for a full recovery. We got some photos of rescuers and the chopper hauling him/her out we will post later.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Jul 31, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
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The start of that is a bit sketch. I'm surprised more people don't hit the deck on that. Hope they are ok.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Jul 31, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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Bummer. That seems to be an annual event. Best wishes for a easy recovery.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 05:02pm PT
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Asked the EMTs and the squirrels....gear pulled, climber decked, helmet shattered and saved the climber. Yikes and happy it was not a retrieval.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 05:50pm PT
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Still...sounds like a significant head injury based on the talk at the store. Think we climbed next to this pair earlier in the day.
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GoMZ
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Jul 31, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
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That's terrible, good vibes sent out to the climber that decked.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 07:54pm PT
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oh - and must report a Jebus H Bombz siting earlier in the day too (not the party who decked for sure!)
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 08:19pm PT
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Litter carried out was empty which made us think it was a recovery. Happily we were wrong...only patient was flown out. Looked like a fun route you were on...how was it?
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GoMZ
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Jul 31, 2015 - 08:30pm PT
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Aww missed you by a day Jebus, hope all is well with you friend.
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GoMZ
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Jul 31, 2015 - 08:38pm PT
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I will! Sounds like it was interesting. Was looking at that route yesterday on mtnproject. We should get out climbing man. You know I'm in slt now.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 08:44pm PT
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Looked like a cool route. Sorry it was a veggie route. Saw some crazy scenes today. HH is in order!
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GoMZ
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
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Jul 31, 2015 - 08:50pm PT
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Glad you guys are alright, and hope you had a good dayclimbing.
seems like people bite it at the start of that route pretty frequently.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Callie on vacation? Climbing?
What's this world coming to?????
hee hee hee. . .
I hope you & BN are havin' a great trip--I wanna see
pictures when you guys get back!
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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seems like people bite it at the start of that route pretty frequently.
I wish someone(Petch) would put a bolt on that thing!! I've personally have helped carry two broken bodies off there. And watched 4-5 others flown out. SUCKS!
I say this only cuz off the decking potential on bad gear. And I don't think it even has an "R" or an "X" rating?
A bolt is only 5 bucks. Don't clip it if you don't want too.
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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or how about this?
employ common climbing sense
and if there is only 1 piece
between you and the ground
and you are about to pull
the crux of the route,
throw a second piece in.
it's got your back.
no bolt required.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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The crux of The Line is not that difficult . . . unfortunately 5.9 can be pretty unforgiving. Bolting the crux would desecrate the route. The aspiring leader is responsible for developing the necessary skills to ascend the route safely . . . or not.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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If you are decking on Farley, you probably should not be trying to lead it . . . the individual is responsible for developing the required ability.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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BB......no bolt necessary the crux of the Line is well protected and can be backed up to hold a dory, as the Norwegian says simply put in two pieces between you and the ground. Sorry to hear about the fall and hope they heal fast and well.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 2, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
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Adios LL. Strolling in Truckee now....
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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My old hometown, love that place!
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ecflau
Gym climber
CA
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I got 3 pieces of gear in before the crux
I could definitely see someone who doesn't have a lot of experience (esp pro on LL can be a little more tricky as its not as smooth as splitter Yosemite cracks) place a shitty cam and it blows. When I did the Line (finally), I was pretty solid on 5.9 and usually 5.9 is cruiser for me, but I definitely found it more awkward then hard, and more than once after placing a piece, I inspected it and had to fix it. I would say no bolt needed, but would definitely recommend the leader to be a pretty confident 5.10 climber before attempting this route.
Kind of rough cause LL is usually the place to start for a new aspiring trad climber because of the easier grades, but I actually found that I had to be a little more careful with pro at LL then Yosemite... either way, I was glad that I waited and got a few years of trad experience before doing the Line, if I did it earlier on when I was just graduating out of a gym, I could see it being scary.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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"Its ONLY 5.9" is the thought?
Is it tho? Despite the gear factor. It is a large percentage of climbers that whip on that so-called "5.9". I've heard 5.10+ climbers have to hang there. It's not a gimmie on the On-sight. It's gotta atleast be as hard as the Exorcist 10a in JT? And as far as the pro, it's atleast precarious Mama Woolsey which is rated 10a R. And MW's moves only feel 5.9 to me.
I mostly just feel The Line's 5.9 rating is JINGUS! Fantasia, and MDA both have a 5.9 R rating and I haven't heard of anybody getting hurt on either one of those? Maybe because the nOObs investigate a rte a little deeper with an "R" rating! And causes them to bridle the "plug-n-go" attitude.
If the crux was 50 or 100 ft up this would be a nonissue. But since it is 15-20ft of the deck. And being there has been 30+ people HIT THE DECK (and have to be carried or flown out) seems relatively easy to predict more will crater in the future : ( With a bolt 4-5ft below the first piece, this would prolly never happen again : )
We certainly should have some sortof modern standard to asses the legitamacy of the First Ascensionist standard for describing a rating.. And bring about an honorable way to "adjust" the rating?
There are lots of really good 5.6 - 5.9 face climbs at Josh that were put up by 5.12 climbers who only put 1 bolt right in the middle of a 50ft climb (so they never get done). So what's the reason for putting up a rte like this?? To cheap and lazy to put in 3-4 more bolts? OR, just put in the one to prove your boldness on 5.9 while being a 5.12 climber?
I realize it takes arrogance for some to reach the summit, and for others, humility. Is it really unanimous that each subsequent ascention be in the same tradition?
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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I've been on the Line only once. I found one solid piece of gear a ways up but it would not keep you off the ground if you blew the crux. I found a thin piece of gear (can't remember if it was a small stopper or a small cam) right at the crux. Either way it was a small piece of gear and not 100% bomber IMO. I would not have been willing to climb hard enough to fall on it. I found the climbing just easy enough that it was not likely that I was going to test that piece. If I had fallen and that piece had popped, I would have hit the ground. No way did I find enough gear at the start to keep 2 pieces between me and the ground. It is not surprising to me that people deck on that route with some regularity. A bolt is not the answer, but I think it is a route that warrants strong caution for the 5.9 leader.
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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You slot a stopper just before the crux. The trick is to set it deep and give at downward yank to set then a short sling or quick draw and its bomber. When I first led that in '71 there were a number of fixed pins and I believe one there. Actually the stopper slot was enhanced by pin placements. As far as difficulty; it is certainly easier than many comparable thin crack climbs at the Leap like April Fools and Rednecks.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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I'm pretty sure that is exactly what I did. But still, it is a small stopper, not super confidence inspiring IMO. If you fall and it pulls, you are hitting the deck. I saw no way to keep a second piece between me and the ground. Like I said, a bolt is not the answer, but that start is not good for 5.9-limit climbers and I am not surprised that there are accidents with some regularity.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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When I first led that in '71 there were a number of fixed pins and I believe one there. Actually the stopper slot was enhanced by pin placements.
So your obliged to the notion that the protection isn't "natural" and infact has been "enhanced"?
So using The Line as an example, what would you say(having history and her facts to set on the table) is the higher ethical road to take in the future?
1. The chiseling out of a crack until it can accept "natural" gear.
2. The placing of a bolt next to the gear unaccepting Natural crack.
Inquisitive minds would like to know ; )
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Bad Climber
climber
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@Blue:
I wish someone(Petch) would put a bolt on that thing!! I've personally have helped carry two broken bodies off there. And watched 4-5 others flown out. SUCKS!
A bolt should (and would be) pulled and patched immediately. I'm far from any kind of super stud, but I've done that route many, many times, starting 37 years ago and repeated again last year. The first time I was 16 (without chalk, too, though I'm a total white-hands guy now), and it was always fine. A stopper with a short draw is BOMBER at that first crux--totally bomber. It's deep, constricting perfectly, just a great, great piece, and you can get a piece or two in before as well. Anyone getting seriously hurt has made some serious mistakes. Climbing is dangerous, people. Build your skills and take your chances. Glad the person had a helmet on. Sorry she decked. Let's hope for the best.
BAd
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Doesn't matter to me Blue, not my FA or FFA. Ask TM or Higgins.
A bolt might prevent a good many craters, but with the routes extreme popularity there would be those that still managed to taste the dirt.
We already had a few larger size stoppers by then, though none small enough to fit that slot Ron. We also had several machine nuts that we ground the threads out of and slung. Nuts were available in limited numbers and style.
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pinckbrown
Trad climber
Woodfords, CA
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Hey,
I just repeated the "groove" a few days ago,
hadn't done it in decades - now there are belay
bolts on the 1st pitch - WTF
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rick sumner
Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
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Hey Bob, those first moves off the ground are tricky and I could see how somebody could easily crater. After they bolt the Line maybe they can install a few more there.
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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one of my first leads at that grade. a solid stopper protects that move. in later years did more than few ascents sans gear at all. climbing safe is about climbing within your ability.
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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I guess "hurr hurr" is the new "stroke", oops I mean "stoke" get a room boys. Sash
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Funny how selective "ball-cupping" has become. WLM vigorously cup Croft's, Bachar's and many other's sacs yet say's "Hurr Hurr"when it suits his childish ways. I may have hit a nerve?
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Get your story straight Bomz. Milt has never ever, ever ever contacted any administrator from Mt. Project or any other climbing web site, for any reason you're either a purposeful liar or just mistaken. Prove your allegations or apologize. Hurr Hurr
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Bomz, You're a pathetic liar then, there is no source other than your feeble imagination. Sad that you get off on trying to "reduce" other climbers
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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See what you started Crimpergirl !!! You two left just in time, such is life in the Trench of Highway 50 :^)
PS.....Trust you enjoyed your stay, LL is a great crag with many fine locals.
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Sorry WML, I didn't mean to be overly confrontational when I answered a question as to the definition of Hurr Hurr. Maybe I got it wrong dunno? But it seems you are a bit hypocritical in your thinking, When you want to share the "stoke" you hear no disparaging comments from me or anyone else but if someone you "perceive" as an old timer or some with a lower "perceived" skill set than yourself, wants to share you bust out a Hurr Hurr. Why is that the case? Do you like to "reduce" people in every aspect of life or just in the climbing arena? Stoke is stoke regardless of traveling to The Creek, wow never did that before or sitting watching the sun go down. Maintaining your way of thinking takes a lot of unnecessary energy, and does nothing but allow you to "toot" your own horn while honking at the "lesser" folk
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sasha Cohen
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe CA
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Sorry for assuming anything, your right I don't know you. I guess I'm in a bad space right know. Sorry again for being less than what we are all meant to be, . I think I need to leave hear for good, have me nuked please.... Delete me and all things I have said. I'll hold on to the good. Weston, I see in you all the things the Universe affords. When I see that in you and you see that in me there is only one of us. Peace my brother
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2015 - 10:28am PT
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I promised some photos of the helicopter plucking in case anyone is interested. We had a cool vantage point. The carried the climber away from The Line to fly him away (that's why he is not in front of the Line).
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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my shoes were at the bottom
of psychedelic tree
that day.
as i walked back to retrieve
them i passed these
two middle-aged gents;
nice fellas,
kinda professional looking
as they roped up for the line.
i bid them well-time
and headed down to market
for a fat beer.
then i saw the medics
mobilizing in the meadow
and i had a suspicion
which was later confirmed
when i trucked back up
there to the base
and found a spat of blood,
one sock, and a mini first aid
kit in a zip lock.
then i whispered up the line.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2015 - 11:27am PT
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I think that was the pair. They'd been climbing next to us earlier and given clear indication that they were inexperienced climbers (at least inexperienced at placing/retrieving gear).
Wish we'd have run into you Weeg.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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I hope you guys got to check out tombstone and boot hill. From the angle of the photos appears maybe? Tombstone's a favorite!
Norwegian, is that pin on Psych 1st pitch still there?
Be safe everyone.
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| Messages 1 - 95 of total 95 in this topic |
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