Lover's Leap/Phantom Spires - Impact of recent fire?

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Bad Climber

climber

Jul 29, 2015 - 06:28am PT

Definitely do Hospital Corner--but don't rap. Continue up the Slash--a little funky--to Dead Tree Direct. This is a classic, right up the center of the highest part of the Leap.

BAd

Rollover

climber

Gross Vegas

Jul 29, 2015 - 08:25am PT

Hello CG and BN!!
Wish I could be there!!!
Just wanted to add to the fray..
I'm sure you already have many options but wanted to add a few..

Dear John Buttress has a couple of fun routes!
Great afternoon shade and really fun short cracks at God of Thunder area..doing the first pitch
only there are three variations..
.9,.10a,.11b all within 8-10' of each other..

Also..If Surrealistic Pillar or direct( FA Jello1969!) is occupied,
Sinbad-Herbert .10a is 50' to the right and mostly shaded. Fun jamming and stemming with dykes(shocker!)..

The Groove .7 another 100' or so up and right of Surrealistic area..morning shade..great option to the "cruise" linkup to which Ron referred.
This thing swallows wires like no other. Put up by Royal's Rockcraft instructors in the 1970's..
Who knows for sure who did the FA??
Paging Roger Breedlove??...(he was an instructor there I believe) Peter Haan too?!?
Bolted anchor at 100' for people who don't want to top out semi runout 5.4..
I often used this as the approach to Traveller's Corrugation Hospital Corner etc..

Don't forget Sugarloaf too!!! No dykes here.. But amazingly good granite!!

My favorites there include:
The Fracture .10d mostly fingers (actually the first pitch of Grand Illusion.13c/d, with the crux roof mockingly poised another 100' or so above you)

Taurus .11b (FA Mark Hudon and Max Jones) fingery/bouldery start to beautiful undercling flake..
These 2 routes are a mere 25'-30' apart as well. Late afternoon spot for sure if you like shade..

Farley .9 (FA Eric Beck and Steve Roper) is an amazing flake a couple of routes left. Also afternoon shade..
Those three alone are worth the approach..
I think Norwegian has rope-soloed all three of these routes..

Dominion .10a (Gene Drake RIP?)is also a great route over near East Chimney and you can get a good look at
Captain Fingers.12+ (FA Mark Hudon) a stunning and unique overhanging serrated flake surrounded by colorful lichen.. The climb is out of my league but the rock is So beautiful..
Climbing Magazine cover route..

For morning shade at Sugarloaf:
Pony Express .9 is a fun 2-pitches (.8,.9)

Hyperspace .10b (FA Jay Smith and Richard Harrison RIP) thin crack to undercling. Fun!!
Weeg rope soloed these also!!
Have a look at Fat Merchant's Crack .10b++ (FA Royal Robbins) on your way back down. Never did it cuz it looks BURLY!!
I think Weeg free-soloed this thing ( along with the likes of Royal Robbins and I'm sure other Hardmen..

Fingerlock .10b (FA Jim Orey) on the Sugarbun is great fun too..early morning shade..

BN has probably climbed all these great routes already!! ;)

Sorry for such a long post!!

Rollover

climber

Gross Vegas

Jul 29, 2015 - 08:42am PT

Rollover

climber

Gross Vegas

Jul 29, 2015 - 08:44am PT

BrassNuts

Trad climber

Save your a_s, reach for the brass...

Jul 29, 2015 - 08:58am PT

Cool, thanks for all the suggestions, much appreciated!

Rollover

climber

Gross Vegas

Jul 29, 2015 - 09:10am PT

Ron..
What did you use for the start of The Fracture when aiding without microcams the initial flake?
I seem to remember a zero cam at the start.. But it's been 14 years.. Hehehe.
Did you just boulder out the start?

Thanks BTW Ron this thing eats wires sooo well at the crux...

Roger Breedlove

climber

Cleveland Heights, Ohio

Jul 29, 2015 - 12:51pm PT

Rollover,

I don't know who did the first ascent of The Groove up and right of Surrealistic Pillar. It may have been done before I started working for Royal. Dick Erb worked for Royal from the beginning of RockCraft and would probably remember who put it up.

This is the link to his ST member profile Dick Erb

GoMZ

Trad climber

South Lake Tahoe

Jul 29, 2015 - 01:36pm PT

Brass Nuts, I am available to climb tomorrow (thursday) if you're still looking for a partner. I live about 15 minutes away in South Lake. There are others on this forum who can vouch for me as far as safety/experience goes. Call or text me or respond here if you're interested 760-914-1479

Thanks,
Steve

BrassNuts

Trad climber

Save your a_s, reach for the brass...

Jul 29, 2015 - 02:51pm PT

Hey Steve, Thurs would be great! A route at the leap would be best logistically if that interests you. I'll give you a call this afternoon, thanks! Dave

Big Mike

Trad climber

Jul 30, 2015 - 11:40am PT

How's the smoke up there????

Crimpergirl

Sport climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 30, 2015 - 06:52pm PT

Hi Mike! No smoke at all. Mild temps today. Really nice!

GoMZ

Trad climber

South Lake Tahoe

Jul 30, 2015 - 08:03pm PT

Had a great day climbing with you Dave, and it was nice meeting you Callie. Hope our paths cross again soon!

BrassNuts

Trad climber

Save your a_s, reach for the brass...

Jul 30, 2015 - 08:22pm PT

Thanks for getting out today Steve, good fun! Enjoy your van and see you again I'm sure, cheers!

Crimpergirl

Sport climber

Boulder, Colorado!

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2015 - 04:29pm PT

Someone took a digger on the Line today. Best wishes for a full recovery. We got some photos of rescuers and the chopper hauling him/her out we will post later.