Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
ruppell
climber
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 03:35pm PT
|
Moral of this story likely is - don't spray about soloing 5.7?
Yep. Minimum acceptable grade for spraying about a solo is from here forth set to 10+. If you have a great story to about your ropeless exploits and it is under that grade please consult rc.com.
|
|
Bad Climber
climber
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
|
More Shakira, please!
BAd
|
|
phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 04:23pm PT
|
I just want to say, this thread is a hell of a lot more entertaining than the last Avengers movie I paid good money to see, and I'm getting this for free.
Although I do feel a bit guilty that my entertainment is coming at the expense of poor snowhazed who tried to do a good public service by alerting people to a possible hazard on a widely soloed route.
It's kind of harsh to characterize as spray, his factual statement that he was soloing, which is entirely germane to the story. You guys can be so catty!
:-) Phyl
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
|
Shakira is interesting.
I did the mastering on her big hit "Hips Don't Lie" with Wyclef Jean. OMG she is hot. She is also totally a pro. In the studio she knew exactly what she wanted and was not willing to settle for anything less than perfection. She's probably like that with men too :-)
Oh, did I just Spray? At least it wasn't about climbing.
Regarding the OP, how many family dads ride bicycles in traffic or motorcycles on the freeway? I'm not going to criticize the guy for his choices but one question keeps coming up in my head, does his wife know what he's doing?
I know, pretty personal. But then he started out about a loose flake and next thing you know he's talking about his pregnant wife. That opens the door to all sorts of questions.
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
|
Ooch Burch.
Ron goes nuclear in:
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 04:54pm PT
|
Jeeze people. Nothing wrong with a little spray if you are prepared for it.
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 04:59pm PT
|
|
|
snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2015 - 06:00pm PT
|
To be honest, I wrote the post without much thought beyond the heads up about the flake. Wish I could say I was just trying to stir the pot for fun, instead the details came out as an organic statement of my mindset while in the moment. This certainly validates the point raised- why not just post the beta on the beta page and leave it at that? Regardless of the answer to that, I am warmly entertained by the resulting show.
Spray- well, I can't argue, although it wasn't really my intent. Intention matters little- if the manpris are on, they are on regardless of why. In the words of aesop rock "attention is a must. you don't want to be overlooked. yeah... but you don't want to be looked over too much." At least I didn't spray about all the other ground I covered that day (ooh a reference to potential spray, perhaps implicit spray is even more pernicious than explicit!!)
Ruppel nails one particular element right on the head. Opinions in the form of an internet post will do literally nothing to influence my perspective, choices, or personal understanding. I'll leave that up to my wife, friends, family, and child. In some sense, any direct condemnation is its own form of spray, trying to spray that your perspective is epistemologically superior. In that sense I am not defending anything, because those assaults are impotent. I'm just speaking my mind.
Those that merely offered their perspective as something to consider, well that I admire and appreciate. There is more power in that approach.
That I value the opinion of the real people in my life who care about me, leads to Kris' question if I am being upfront, and to that I can happily answer yes. There was one time when we were first falling in love that I couldn't navigate the topic well with her and went solo without her knowledge. It sucked. Never again. I am transparent to my partner in all things. Radical honesty is essential to soloing, that surrender to the reality of every finely layered stitch or stream of code or nuclear forces that encompasses the present moment and apprehended by a self-aware and referential consciousness is the very thing that allows one to execute with such precision and unmitigated joy.
That day led me to write a longform essay about love, honesty, passion, betrayal, history, genetics, consciousness, and paradox. I've never seen fit to share it much beyond the inner circle- but at the very least I can honestly communicate that I have contemplated these issues at length and continue to have that dialogue.
Gene- My girl is due late October! I'm super psyched! First child for both myself and the wife. I'm sure it will be transformative.
Ok- back to it!
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 06:07pm PT
|
snowhazed
Where you going for the full traverse? That is one hell of a fun day. The rock on Columbia Finger makes Matthes look solid. Spray on. Inquiring climbers want to know. So technically I'm asking you to spray which doesn't violate the rules. lol
|
|
snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2015 - 06:17pm PT
|
ruppel - I was on one of the Tuolumne Triple's - Hobbit to the full Matthes to Cathedral, what a perfect day.
That brings up an answer to the poster who asked- why not bring some rope and some gear? Much harder to cover that much ground efficiently, requires a partner, and simuling has the potential to breed "I have a rope" complacency.
|
|
overwatch
climber
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
|
Nice writing and pics
|
|
mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
|
Yeah, snowhazed, you write well. You make your point(s) very clearly and succinctly.
I fully understand your point of view - you can't be a good father (or husband) if you're not happy.
Stay happy and fershitsakes stay safe too.
|
|
ruppell
climber
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 06:44pm PT
|
Is there anything other than the full Matthes? I still don't understand rapping or downclimbing off after the north tower. You miss some of the best climbing on the route. Plus it puts you at a higher elevation when you finish the ridge on the way over to Cathedral.
|
|
ct
climber
CO
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 10:00pm PT
|
That last photo may be the most vivid shot of the Meadows I've ever seen.
I am proud to be a friend and occasional partner of Mr. Snowhazed, when he chooses to use a rope. As this thread illustrates, his ability to think deeply and articulate clearly and honestly what he is feeling is a rare and delightful quality.
Makes me miss the Meadows. Cheers!
|
|
Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2015 - 10:17pm PT
|
Snowhazed, thanks for the heads-up.
I, too, get what you are saying in your posts and agree with your climbing and life philosophy and attitude as presented 100 per cent.
And congrats on everything!
|
|
overwatch
climber
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2015 - 12:17am PT
|
Ok, ok you write well too.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2015 - 05:43am PT
|
Methinks the OP has cherry-picked his prettiest sounding thoughts, like most people do
Scrubbing Bubbles, now nothing left, but to ramble on?
|
|
Bad Climber
climber
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2015 - 06:15am PT
|
Hey, Snowhazed:
I like them photos! Prolly color enhanced, me thinks, but very, very cool.
To be honest, having the kid seems way sketchier than the solos! Everyone should wear helmets at the birth, for sure.
On Belay.
BAd
|
|
Lloyd Campbell
Social climber
St. Cloud, MN
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2015 - 06:20am PT
|
That last photo may be the most vivid shot of the Meadows I've ever seen.
Yeah, nothing like taking a photo and blowing the hue and saturation out using Photochop.
It's a nice shot, just saying he went way overboard with the post processing.
|
|
skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
|
|
|
Jul 27, 2015 - 06:25am PT
|
^^^^LOL!!!! Yea that one is off the charts! Still, nice photos. And congrads on the upcoming event. I didn't think the birth of either my two kids was too bad (far worse for my wife!), just stay out of reach of your partners hands and you are good to go. I didn't get too much spray on me during either birth, and bonus(!), I was first to hold each of them. Most amazing moments ever for me.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!