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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Jun 21, 2015 - 03:10pm PT
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Awesome. More photos!!!!! please!!!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 21, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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There are more photos by Ben Ditto on Mason Earle's instagram page:
http://instagram.com/mason_earle/
Probably we will see a nice set of photos soon on the Eddie Bauer blog?
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Jun 21, 2015 - 11:25pm PT
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I could totally do that if I could climb hard 5.13/V10.
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crøtch
climber
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Jun 22, 2015 - 01:53pm PT
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Way to go, Brad & Mason!
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Jun 27, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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I got on this route a few days ago with Alex Honnold to try and make a one day assent. We avoided the direct Heart Route Start and climbed The Freeblast instead. This took out three of the nine 5.13 pitches on the route including the v10 dyno on pitch 6. Alex sent the route with only two falls both of which he did on his second try. I ran out of steam trying to get through the A5 traverse just a few pitches below the summit.
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#310
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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Jun 27, 2015 - 07:16pm PT
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Congratulations! I know Chuck is thrilled in the great beyond. I have forwarded the Alpinist story to Scott. I think he will be thrilled as well. Things just evolve to get ever more interesting/challenging.
Chuck's wife
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 27, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
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Epic! Are you calling the alternative start version "Light Hearted"?
(Saw something to that effect on facebook).
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Jun 27, 2015 - 11:29pm PT
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Light Hearted sounds perfect.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 28, 2015 - 04:15am PT
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Unbelievable
Awesome
Rad
Gnarly
Far out
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Jun 29, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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Outstanding! Amazing! Good work guys.
Cheers,
Doug
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Jun 29, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
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I'm really psyched that this project went down! Awesome work guys!
I'm kind of curious about the downgrade of the G.G.: Golden desert 12c, A5 traverse 12d... is that a joke or a way to point out that the new 5.13 pitches are way harder than the existing ones? According to Mason's topo there are only six 5.13s, not nine. Even if you consider the two I mentioned above, the tally still only comes to 8. Anyway, not trying to take anything away from the accomplishment - I think it's a really really proud effort and the newest free route on the Captain!
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Jun 29, 2015 - 03:20pm PT
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I thought pitch 5 was in the mid 5.13 range but mason being a good bit taller thought it was easier. It has a super height dependent move. 5.13 for anyone under 6 feet. The upper pitches of Golden Gate are rated 13a but probably easier if compared to the lower pitches which are more solid for the grade.
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Jun 29, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
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Sweet! Thanks for the clarification! That dyno would probably be closer to 5.14 as well if you are not tall.
I look forward to the video or more detailed story with more pictures - whatever Ben and Cheyne were making there!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 29, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Excellent!.. every couple decades or so it seems a group comes along and explores new possibilities in our favorite valley.
Really appreciate the shares Gobi! Pretty amazing crew the valley has attracted these last few years. Keep it up.. all of you! What a time, place, and group of people...enjoy
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RasVegas
Trad climber
Goodyear
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I've free soloed that several times (frying on acid laying in the meadow below)! Well done boys. That's freakin solid!
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Congratulations Brad! You're a freaking one of the best man.
By the way, I think Natalie saw you the other day in Trader Joes. She said you were on the phone and was not sure if you recognized her.
Hope to run into you soon or get in some climbing again.
Cheers,
Darshan
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Kligfield
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Congratulations to Mason and Brad on their free ascent of the Heart Route. I was fortunate to make the second ascent of this in 1971, together with Jimmy Dunn and Andy Embick. Over the years I have kept in touch with Scott Davis who made the first ascent in 1970 with Chuck Kroger. All of us are amazed and proud of the ability of the current generation of free climbers to carry out this accomplishment. During the time of these early El Capitan ascents, all of the emphasis was on getting up the climb--whether by aid or free. But there were moments when all of us were thinking "Could this part EVER go free?" For example, on the lower angled slabs below Heart Ledge, we used lots of hooks for our etriers to get up. But we did imagine some day in the future when better climbers would use their talent to cling to very small feldspar and quartz crystals on this face to do it all free. Higher up, when nailing and cleaning the Heart roof, it was apparent that fingers could be inserted into these cracks--again causing us to imagine the future when strong athletes with the right ability might be able to free it. And of course on the "A5 Traverse" there were moments when it was hard to put in pitons or "bashies" and we had to cling to the small holds ourselves to get across. So again, it is truly a very satisfying thing to see that a climb done so long ago is finally a free climb. Congratulations from all of us and we look forward to hearing of further exploits of this standard in the future. Roy Kligfield (Boulder, Colorado).
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