Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 38 of total 38 in this topic |
Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jun 19, 2015 - 06:18pm PT
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Totally rad!!! Kudos for their dedication and skill.
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Jun 19, 2015 - 06:55pm PT
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Well done! Incredible multi-year effort.
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supafly
Trad climber
vancouver, bc
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Jun 19, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
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Where was Adidas to sponsor the media coverage on this event?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 20, 2015 - 12:16am PT
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Wow! Congratulations to the first ascentionists.
John
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 20, 2015 - 05:15am PT
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Kids today!
Sheesh . . Full value!
Just keep kickin' !
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Gunkie
climber
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Jun 20, 2015 - 05:41am PT
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Wow. I've always wanted to climb the Heart Route by aid or free... well, by aid. I always thought it was a cool line in spite of people telling me it was a chossy mudfest.
I think this is an awesome achievement. Well done.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 20, 2015 - 06:35am PT
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Nice work! That is so, awesomely cool!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jun 20, 2015 - 06:56am PT
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New route: Climb Sacherer Cracker and continue to top via difficult climbing.
Great accomplishment. Congratulations. I love that it starts from the top of the Sacherer Cracker. As Dean would say, "Everything is connected."
And, apparently, this brave new world is based on huge sideways dynos.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jun 20, 2015 - 10:14am PT
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Proud!!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jun 20, 2015 - 12:46pm PT
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V10 downward dyno...
props to these guys
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jun 20, 2015 - 02:28pm PT
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Amazing accomplishment Mason and Brad!
Were these guys unsupported too?
If so, that's even more badass!!
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DaveT.
Big Wall climber
Mammoth Lakes
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Jun 20, 2015 - 10:38pm PT
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Damn good job guys! Amazing accomplishment.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jun 21, 2015 - 08:41am PT
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Randisi, I believe the uproar over the Dawn Wall began when it was first aacended and the fallout led the media to go all-in, letting it all hang out.
The nobodies nobody knows were much less of a draw and managed to keep it sane and "real." Their reward is in having done it, pure and simple.
It's a totally impressive thing, and I remember my first year there, in Camp 4, hoping to meet either Kroeger or Davis, two of the younger generation, like myself, but that never happened.
Tremendous accomplishment, especially after a longish hiatus and getting their "second wind."
That is some bad-ass climbing on the Bartlett Wash crack, too, O MY GOD!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 21, 2015 - 09:52am PT
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Pretty rad! Always thought that feature looked super fun to free, I love big granite dihedrals and that has it's fair share!
How many new pitches, and any new terrain? Really cool how the original lines on El Cap get new attention in the modern era :D
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Jun 21, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jun 21, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
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How many sling belays?
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Jun 21, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
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Wow! Great job to the FFA team.
New route: Climb Sacherer Cracker and continue to top via difficult climbing. Love it!
V10 downward dyno... I wonder if there's a video of it somewhere, or how soon there will be one.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 21, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
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How many sling belays?
Oh, you....
;)
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Jun 21, 2015 - 03:10pm PT
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Awesome. More photos!!!!! please!!!!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 21, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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There are more photos by Ben Ditto on Mason Earle's instagram page:
http://instagram.com/mason_earle/
Probably we will see a nice set of photos soon on the Eddie Bauer blog?
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Jun 21, 2015 - 11:25pm PT
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I could totally do that if I could climb hard 5.13/V10.
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crøtch
climber
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Jun 22, 2015 - 01:53pm PT
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Way to go, Brad & Mason!
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Jun 27, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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I got on this route a few days ago with Alex Honnold to try and make a one day assent. We avoided the direct Heart Route Start and climbed The Freeblast instead. This took out three of the nine 5.13 pitches on the route including the v10 dyno on pitch 6. Alex sent the route with only two falls both of which he did on his second try. I ran out of steam trying to get through the A5 traverse just a few pitches below the summit.
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#310
Social climber
Telluride, CO
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Jun 27, 2015 - 07:16pm PT
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Congratulations! I know Chuck is thrilled in the great beyond. I have forwarded the Alpinist story to Scott. I think he will be thrilled as well. Things just evolve to get ever more interesting/challenging.
Chuck's wife
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 27, 2015 - 08:37pm PT
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Epic! Are you calling the alternative start version "Light Hearted"?
(Saw something to that effect on facebook).
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Jun 27, 2015 - 11:29pm PT
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Light Hearted sounds perfect.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jun 28, 2015 - 04:15am PT
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Unbelievable
Awesome
Rad
Gnarly
Far out
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Ottawa Doug
Social climber
Ottawa, Canada
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Jun 29, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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Outstanding! Amazing! Good work guys.
Cheers,
Doug
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Jun 29, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
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I'm really psyched that this project went down! Awesome work guys!
I'm kind of curious about the downgrade of the G.G.: Golden desert 12c, A5 traverse 12d... is that a joke or a way to point out that the new 5.13 pitches are way harder than the existing ones? According to Mason's topo there are only six 5.13s, not nine. Even if you consider the two I mentioned above, the tally still only comes to 8. Anyway, not trying to take anything away from the accomplishment - I think it's a really really proud effort and the newest free route on the Captain!
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Jun 29, 2015 - 03:20pm PT
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I thought pitch 5 was in the mid 5.13 range but mason being a good bit taller thought it was easier. It has a super height dependent move. 5.13 for anyone under 6 feet. The upper pitches of Golden Gate are rated 13a but probably easier if compared to the lower pitches which are more solid for the grade.
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Jun 29, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
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Sweet! Thanks for the clarification! That dyno would probably be closer to 5.14 as well if you are not tall.
I look forward to the video or more detailed story with more pictures - whatever Ben and Cheyne were making there!
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jun 29, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Excellent!.. every couple decades or so it seems a group comes along and explores new possibilities in our favorite valley.
Really appreciate the shares Gobi! Pretty amazing crew the valley has attracted these last few years. Keep it up.. all of you! What a time, place, and group of people...enjoy
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RasVegas
Trad climber
Goodyear
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I've free soloed that several times (frying on acid laying in the meadow below)! Well done boys. That's freakin solid!
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darshahlu
Trad climber
Irvine, CA
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Congratulations Brad! You're a freaking one of the best man.
By the way, I think Natalie saw you the other day in Trader Joes. She said you were on the phone and was not sure if you recognized her.
Hope to run into you soon or get in some climbing again.
Cheers,
Darshan
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Kligfield
Mountain climber
Boulder, CO
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Congratulations to Mason and Brad on their free ascent of the Heart Route. I was fortunate to make the second ascent of this in 1971, together with Jimmy Dunn and Andy Embick. Over the years I have kept in touch with Scott Davis who made the first ascent in 1970 with Chuck Kroger. All of us are amazed and proud of the ability of the current generation of free climbers to carry out this accomplishment. During the time of these early El Capitan ascents, all of the emphasis was on getting up the climb--whether by aid or free. But there were moments when all of us were thinking "Could this part EVER go free?" For example, on the lower angled slabs below Heart Ledge, we used lots of hooks for our etriers to get up. But we did imagine some day in the future when better climbers would use their talent to cling to very small feldspar and quartz crystals on this face to do it all free. Higher up, when nailing and cleaning the Heart roof, it was apparent that fingers could be inserted into these cracks--again causing us to imagine the future when strong athletes with the right ability might be able to free it. And of course on the "A5 Traverse" there were moments when it was hard to put in pitons or "bashies" and we had to cling to the small holds ourselves to get across. So again, it is truly a very satisfying thing to see that a climb done so long ago is finally a free climb. Congratulations from all of us and we look forward to hearing of further exploits of this standard in the future. Roy Kligfield (Boulder, Colorado).
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| Messages 1 - 38 of total 38 in this topic |
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SuperTopo on the Web
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FFA - Mason Earle (all), Brad Gobright (all but the V10 dyno), 6/2015
Let us know!