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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Oct 14, 2004 - 12:11pm PT
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Negro Blanco, and Woodrow, on Mt. Wilson. Both are big and bold.
Yee-ha!
JL
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RRCNCA
climber
Nevada
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Oct 14, 2004 - 01:30pm PT
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These are some lesser done good routes: Community Pillar (Pine Creek 5.9), Edge of the Sun (Pine Creek 5.10), Aquarium (Juniper Canyon across from Olive Oil 5.8+ 1300' tall if started from canyon floor), Gift of the Wind Gods Mt. Wilson 5.11- 12 pitches), Woman of Mtn Dreams (Mt. Wilson 5.11 19 pitches), Sick for Toys (Back of Black Velvet Canyon 5.10 FRICTION), Orange Clonus (Pine Creek 5 pitches 5.10+), Red Zinger (Oak Creek 5.10 2 pitch dihedral), The Fox (Calico Basin 5.10+ 2 pitch dihedral), Breakaway (Ice Box Canyon 5.10 bolted) I highly recommend all of these. There should be NO ONE home when you arrive!!!
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Oct 15, 2004 - 11:34am PT
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Clustiere, you say Paiute Pillar is a death trap. I'm curious about this route and Bird Hunter Buttress. Swain says "supposedly excellent." It's a long walk so it won't be crowded, the buttress just soars, and it looks old school run out. All in all, very attractive. Old bolts? Bad rock? What have you heard?
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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Oct 17, 2004 - 02:19pm PT
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Hiked up to the buffalo wall a couple of years ago.
The approach is just as burly as you might imagine. More so than the rainbow wall as there is more than one section of 5th class climbing to deal with. That being said the rock looked quite good (better than rainbow wall) and the 2 exsisting routes looked good as well.
Some of my favorite lesser know classic's
Risky business 4 ptich's 5.10+ R on the mescalito.
I've done the first 2 pitch's twice now and they are SWEET! For whatever reason I keep rapping without doing the second half, but fully plan to go back...I've heard they're more of the same stellar climbing.
Chicken Eruptus 5.10- R on the ragged edges wall. The R rating is NBD, and the climbing is fun.
Bruja's brew is super good as well.
The Sensous Mortician is another classic that see's little traffic but is defiantly a worthy route.
josh
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Oct 17, 2004 - 02:56pm PT
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Bird Hunter, as i recall has about 40 bolts on it, all 1/4" death bolts and all need to be replaced. a few belays have these things with no possibility to back up w/ natural gear. I hear the line itself it stellar.
I'll respectfully disagree with Greg on Sundog. It's 5.9 at the crux, and no harder than 5.8 anywhere else.
Stilgars is MUCH better than Tunnelvision (and longer), but its spicy and a tad runout up top. Only a little loose rock. We didnt carry anything bigger than a #4 camalot on it and i dont remember wanting anything bigger. Definitely not a beginner 5.8, though.
Ginger Cracks is a great route....I dont know if i'd call it a 5.7 route with soft 5.9, though. Alot of people misread the topo on the first pitch and climb the wrong crack...
Frigid Air Buttress is one of my favorites and well worth doing. The climbing is good the whole way up and the last pitch makes the climb great.
Chasing Shadows is 5.8, by the way, not 5.10. Its actually a great variation. Havent done the last 50', though...too hot, had to escape into Dark Shadows after the offwidth.
Burlesque looks really good, although I havent climbed it yet. It goes 5.9 offwidth and basically ascends the Frigid Air rappel route.
Some other great routes:
Straight Shooter, 5.9+: perfect fingers
Topless Twins, 5.9: just a nice climb
Magenellic Cloud, 5.9: somewhat tricky pro, but good climbing makes it fun.
Cold September Corner, 5.8: old school 5.8!
Our Father, 5.11 something (the first pitch is fun 5.8).
Sunflower, 5.9R: Probably the best route on the Solar Slab wall...but its rarely climbed.
Red Zinger, 5.10+: To the right of Solar Slab, this one looks like an IC splitter in a corner.
Black Magic, 5.8: To the right of Lotta Balls. Just as good, but more sustained climbing.
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Brad Singer
Trad climber
Lake Arrowhead, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2004 - 04:14pm PT
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Best of the (possibly) lesser known routes I've done at Red Rocks is Nightcrawler (5.10) on the Brownstone Wall. Wish someone would take it to the top of the wall instead of finishing on the pillar.
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Oct 19, 2004 - 10:06pm PT
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Brad,
Ryan here, lets finish that if your finger can handle it. How was Sedona?
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Oct 19, 2004 - 10:20pm PT
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I climbed Piaute Pillar after doing Epinephrine and so my opinion may have been swayed based on relativity. Still I do recall the following based on my scribbles in my book, 230ft pitches large death plates and flakes ripping off, 4 pieces of gear per pitch (3 were micro stoppers) perhaps off route at the very top ( no harder than 5.9rrrr)the first pitch (on topo) was great and we started the route from the creek bed adding perhaps 4-6 piches of 5.7-8r climbing up a crack system. I left a cam just sitting on a ledge its your if you find it but you have to tell me for laughs sake. Good luck.
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Oct 20, 2004 - 01:54am PT
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the two climbs in Calico:
Atman, 5.10
Yin and Yang, 5.11
both of these are supposedly outstanding!
as for Our Father- no bolts were added, i think. its still runout enough to make me shudder at the thought of actually climbing it. (i only led the 1st pitch at a measly 5.8!)
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Nov 13, 2004 - 02:45pm PT
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wondering about linking the pink tornado right or left to gwondonna land boogie or scotty anybody done this link up on Mt Wilson Brennon and Kennega say they couldn't link it because of a headwall (them be solid climbing folk) so I am wondering if their is a secret.
clust
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Nov 16, 2004 - 04:09am PT
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nobody?
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TomMoulin
climber
Las Vegas
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Nov 17, 2004 - 12:13pm PT
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Don't know anything about that link up,
Some lesser known classics
Although off by itself the Fox is a contender for the best single picth in Red Rock.
I agree w/ RRNCA Community Pillar is super neat, unique climbing, chimneys, alcoves. Also that crack pitch on Orange Clonus is fantastic, the rest is not so hot.
The wall to the right of Epinephrine (lone star, texas hold'em) has really nice rock, and a roof that looks WILD.
Anybody know about Heart of Darkness above Dark Shadows?
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Recently climbed Sunflower and Mountain Beast they were great..............
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
running springs, ca
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Feb 23, 2005 - 02:49pm PT
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how about gwondonnaland boogie
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2005 - 03:22pm PT
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When we did Epinephrine on Nov. 19 there was a line of fixed ropes about 75' to the right of Epi going up around a 1000' - any idea what they were all about? Looked interesting.
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DavisGunkie
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Feb 23, 2005 - 03:56pm PT
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i have a question when entering the canyon for Olive oil. we ended up tryin gthis real thin seamed corner thinking it was olive oil at first but ended up backing off of it after my partner broke a hold and ended up with a twisted ankle.
you go up and traverse around a small buttress to a large ledge with another 15 foot section before you hit the corner.
apparently soeone else had been near there since there was a small rotting sling on a sad little bush up there.
was that an actual route?
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Nightcrawler, Hourglass diversion good to do both only need one rope!!!!!!!!!!!!
Aquarium is ok..
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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"Anybody know about Heart of Darkness above Dark Shadows?"
From the last belay on Dark Shadows, travese dead left (.11a) then head straight up. No bolts. Open face. Pretty good run outs. Lots of wires. A touch of 5.10, but mainly necky 9. 4 or 5 more pitches depending on how you rig the belays. Never heard of anyone repeating this after Lynn Hill, Richard Harrison, Randy Grandstaff and I did the first ascent in the late 70s. But surely someone has repeated such an obvious and striking line.
JL
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OW
Trad climber
Patagonia
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"Never heard of anyone repeating this after Lynn Hill, Richard Harrison, Randy Grandstaff and I did the first ascent in the late 70s. But surely someone has repeated such an obvious and striking line."
I saw slides of a guy from Oregon that did it. He thought the roof was 10+ and funky to protect. Your gang left fixed pins in the roof or were they placed by a previous aid attempt?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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"I saw slides of a guy from Oregon that did it. He thought the roof was 10+ and funky to protect. Your gang left fixed pins in the roof or were they placed by a previous aid attempt?"
I don't remember the roof having any pro--I think I just ran it off the belay. Maybe that's why I remember it as 5.11a. Be interesting to know if there's been any bolts added above. Felt a little sketchy up there with three guys hanging off wires at the belay as the leader ran the rope over creaky boilerplates 1,000 off the deck.
JL
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