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clustiere
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 4, 2003 - 03:16am PT
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I was thinking about the lines that were going to occur this red rocks season and thought it would be great to share a list of the lesser know routes (ie not starred in the Swain Book).
Mushroom People 1p 5.10+
Chasing Shadows 3p 5.10 rapped over it and it looked great
THe Next Century 2p 5.10
Y2K a newer classic 4p 5.10
Pine Nuts 2p 5.9+ sweet little roof with jugs
Olive Oil 7p 5.7 well known for its sweet hand crack
Warning Paiute pillar is a death trap
Ginger Cracks 7p 5.9 havent done it but heard multiple good things
Horn Dogger Select 5.8+ 0r new 5.10? var on p8 goes strait up to rap chains w 2 ropes a few raps(2?) brings you back to the top of SS GUllly
Ring tail to Rainbow butress IV 5.10+ one sport protected traverse crux. Another stem corner w fingers makes this route a varnish wonderland of great climbing w/new bolts.
Inti Watana is not as good as the book inplies but it is a long 12p mostly bolted 5.10. nowhere near as sustained as the BVW sport routes
Bruja's Brew looks great 4p 5.9
Whiskey peak is just great rock a few that stick out are
Sand Felipe 1p5.10
Wholesome Fullback 2p 5.10- should be 5.10
Our Father 3p 5.10 w a rebolted (on the better rock) 5.9r second pitch, I only rapped over it as the crowds were all over this.
The Gobbler to the Yellow Brick Road via the Dream of wild Turkey traverse back wards (bring a purple or green camalot for belay with a bolt of the traverse. Thsi makes a great link up. (on second pitch stop and belay on the top of the squeeze part there are two bolts. Look out for the new route that wants to decieve you aout right as the real route goes left (look hard you will see the bolts( more than topo shows)
Anybody else have a few lesser known classics.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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First off, comments on your list:
I'd give Pine Nuts a 5.10b and an R, the holds on that roof were creaking on me and the pro was marginal. This Ain't No Disco was fun, 5.8 not 9+, R but not that bad, bit loose.
Next Century is solid 10+, Y2K is killer 10-
The new variation on Horndogger over the roof is Sundog, Joanne Urioste gives it 5.9 in her new supplement but it's definitely 10a, bring at least one 4"-5" cam for the last pitch (or lots of thin stuff including smallest two lowe balls for 5.9 face var.)
Others:
Arrow Place, first 3 pitches, skip top (recent rockfall in descent gully), bring thin pro for start (like lowe balls).
Group Therapy, rad 5.7 roof chimney near the top, but have to grunt up hollow offwidth on second. Heard that Healy's Haunted House is good.
Mountain Beast, starts Ringtail then goes left on the 3rd pitch or so, maybe some bad bolts in that area, looks awesome (in new Red Book Supplement). Joanne calls the crux of Ringtail 11a in that new supplement.
Diet Delight was good, not a standard edge pull.
The new arete variation on Beulah's Book is great - a few nuts, a few bolts, sling a horn, links back into the long lieback, just killer.
Only the Good Die Young, bad ass, mostly 5.10, bolt ladder 5.11 (traversing roof, then traversing thin face). All bolts replaced.
We did something not in any guidebook opposite Olive Oil, one section of runout 5.9 on super-delicate holds, but tons of fun climbing, around 8 pitches, you end up at the Brownstone Wall. Some loose stuff, not many ascents (no evidence of anything but I bet Joe Herbst was there about when I was born). Email me if you want a topo, there's lots of other stuff you could try there. Some thrashing through scrub oak to approach.
Chuckwalla - kicks butt, George Urioste led us up it and we replaced all the bolts. Major approach. Better for longer days, nice pools for swimming.
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clustiere
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2003 - 10:05am PT
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Great beta. It can be hard to distinguish between the good and bad routes.
I have heard that Eagle Dances aid pitch goes at 5.12, any confirmations. Has it been freed at all.
Also the Crux of Resolution Arete is now 5.12 but also aidable @ C1, the rock on thsi route is not as good as the other classics, but its sooo long, we linked many of the bottom pitches using a 70m rope.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Yeah, I remember hearing that Eagle Dance went free, but then I couldn't find anything about that. Also not sure if it was on lead up the original line of bolts, on lead but runout up this dirty groove over left, or on top rope up one or the other.
Anyone know?
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HandCrack
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal.
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Ah, this is good stuff...
First, a few comments on your picks:
Ginger Cracks - Yes, a great one, easy 5.9. You can now do four pitches and rap, but really, do the whole thing.
Bruja's Brew - A worthy route when others are taken.
Sand Felipe - Great edging that goes on and on.
Healy's Haunted House - First pitch is excellent. The rest has its moments, but not spectacular.
And some climbs I've stumbled across over the years. Some are actually fairly well known by some.
Classic Crack, 5.8 in Calico Basin. Well named. Will give the 5.8 leader a good workout.
Physical Grafitti, 5.6 in Calico Basin. Jugs up a crack.
Great Red Book, 5.8. A well-known classic.
Space Case, 5.7 and Head Case, 5.8 in Willow Spring area. I didn't do the original Case Face route, Hard Case, 5.9. It had a burly looking flared section.
Spare Rib, 5.8 up near Crimson Chrysalis. Four 80 ft. pitches. A great option if you lose your place in line for CC. Also look at Test Tube, 5.9 just left of Spare Rib. It's three pitches of interesting-looking chimney, if you're into that kind of thing. Check the Urioste book for route info.
The Necromancer. Can't go wrong with any of these routes.
The Friar, first pitch, 5.7 in Oak Creek. A wonderful 100 ft. pitch. I got weathered off - heard the top pitch is hard and scary.(?)
Coltrane, 5.9 in Oak Creek. Long (but nice) walk for a short, hard move (5.9? I don't think so!) 20 ft. off the start of the route, then fun easy slabs to the top.
Shaeffer's Delight, 5.7 in Black Velvet Canyon. From the Supertopo guide. A great warm-up. I didn't notice any bad rock at the start.
Sweet Little Whore, 5.9 at Illusion Crags. Listed as Slight of Hand in the Swain guide. A perfect finger crack start to easier steep juggy climbing higher.
Well, that's enough for now. I'm sure I've left out lots of good ones. I'd love to see some locals give up some of their well kept secrets!
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clustiere
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2003 - 04:25pm PT
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I have heard great things about the wall across from Olive Oil. It looks as if there are at least 3 splitter crack lines that must have been climbed, I'll be out there this winter fer sure.
Also the Challenger wall up the south fork of Pine Creek is supposedly great for hard sport climbing?????
How about some classics on the rainbow wall (besides the original route which is terrific)
Greg if you could send me a topo of that long route across from Olive Oil that would be great my Email is rcrochiere@prescott.edu sorry i can't email you directly right now as my system has a bug for sending now (but it is fine to recieve). Thanks
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Challenger Wall is mostly 5.10d-11 trad, talk to Mike Ward to get an old Jay Smith topo. We scouted the trail (heads off left about 90 mins up Pine Creek), it was difficult to find and had clearly seen very little recent traffic. I have a couple pictures, if you're really interested one of them might help find the trail. Looks like it's a warmer weather crag, all shade and approach is probably 2hrs (going fast) once you know exactly where it is.
Greg
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Oh yeah, also opposite Olive Oil: along the wall before the main wall with cracks, and up the gully past that wall with cracks, are at least 6 bolted anchors in the range of 1-2 pitches up the wall, there are a lot of good looking routes, no beta anywhere that I could find. Saw the anchors from something we did left of Olive Oil.
Greg
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Mad Dog
climber
Podunk, Ameruka
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First comments about other's suggestions:
Ginger Cracks: I thought of it as a good quality 5.7 route with a touch of soft 9, well protected. We were a little confused by Swain's topo WRT finding the start. Look for the features near the start of P2 and you'll find it easily.
Group Therapy: I agree, Greg, this is excellent. Probably not a good first 5.7 lead. That Joe Herbst guy had an eye for a route.
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Other ideas: Frigid Aire Buttress is a fine route. It's not all that impressive to look at from below, but, other than P2, it's great quality and has a huge variety of climbing from face to fingers, hand, OW and chimney. All of the cruxes have excellent pro and solid rock. The initial part of the descent was a bit confusing but once down that part, it's a cruise. The waterfall area you rap down is pretty amazing - I need to get in there in the early spring sometime. If you're wanting to do something mid length with an easy approach, this is it!
The NE Arete of Bridge Mountain is a cool adventure. I had originally planned to link Frigid Aire Buttress to it but ended up doing the scramble approach from south of Icebox up to the right edge of the red/blonde stripe, then did 2 chimney pitches to get to the traverse of the hanging valley. We descended into Laurel Canyon where friends had left a car. The walkoff from the summit is incredible - some of the wildest 3rd class you'll ever see.
Anyone ever do Dark Shadows or another route to the top of Mescalito? How did you top out from the last described Dark Shadows pitch in the red book? How did you descend? Looks cool.
If you want a short day of cragging, Icebox has a bunch of great possibilities, for both hot and cold days. Cold September Morning is a really fun 1-pitch route, also put up by Herbst. Take a 3.5 or 4 Camalot. Wild stuff for 5.8. Plenty of other fun stuff in the area. Easy approach.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Mad Dog - Dark Shadows descent:
At the top of Dark Shadows there's a huge ledge (50' wide, trees), which you can use to traverse off right. Some confusion on the descent stems from people considering the ledge the top of the wall vs. going to the actual top. We used the ledge, so don't know anything about the true summit descent.
Going right on the ledge, you do a little bit of 3rd class chimney stuff up & behind a tower, then work your way along and down slabs and bushes until you reach a drop-off with a bolted rap anchor on a slab. The anchor has bolts that are sticking part way out (not too nasty though) and long slings, and it's a full double-rope rappel from there into a neat chimney. The problem is that the bolts should have been placed 50' northeast on a vertical wall so that you can pull the ropes. With two 60m ropes, we carefully kept the knot on the best side to pull from and avoided any twists, then I had to take the very end of the rope way back from the chimney & up a big boulder and pull from there to get it to budge in the slightest. Eventually got the sucker pulled, but it would be easy to get ropes stuck and no way to get them back except ascend the ropes and try again.
After that, we descended into a bowl with a couple chimney/gully systems leading down towards the N fork of Pine Creek. We took the right most system, and after 2 or 3 short rappels down the chimney from trees/slung boulders (lots of slings & rap rings), did a full 200' rap into the canyon bottom, and that was overhung for the last 50'.
As far as the route, we forgot to bring the route description, and missed the 30 ft leftward traverse on pitch 7. Going straight up the right crack is fun 5.8 R with good small nuts every 20-30 ft but delicate holds, then a short 5.9 section (good thin cams), but above that we ended up in a steep & tricky 5.9 wide chimney section, just before the ledge (valley 5.9 not epinephrine 5.9).
Planning to go back sooner or later with a replacement kit, the few belay bolts are in poor shape, especially the one on top of pitch 6 (which is best skipped, but still it's the only protection in there; you can back up the protection bolt on pitch 7 and belay from there). We never saw the pitch 7 top anchor, not sure if you can back it up. On another trip we replaced the original pitch 4 anchor and the pitch 5 protection bolt, but didn't go higher.
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JohnDoe
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Nov 11, 2003 - 02:23pm PT
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A great thread. Hard copy in hand. I look forward to exploring some of these climbs. Thanks for the beta! Climb Ohn. Wally
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clustiere
Trad climber
prescott, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2003 - 12:34pm PT
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Can anybody give a brief account on the Westen Spaces Wall.
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clustiere
Trad climber
phoenix ,az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2003 - 12:35am PT
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Hymm how about the buffalo wall.
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Nov 21, 2003 - 11:07am PT
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This is great guys.
Had my first visit to RR in October. Loved it so much off back next April with a big gang of us.
Great info.
Anyone know of a route in the very nexk crack chimney right of Tunnel Vision? Don't thik its Group Therapy. Led this by accident and had a full 55m out with four pieces in. Managed to take a stance in a notch about 15feet right of the pitch into the cave of Tunnel vision. If you lent out backwards one could just spy the tree on GT, higher and to the right. Some else has been there as I pulled a couple of biners off rap slings. Nice booty. The pitch was a great stem and off width climb.
Let me know.
Climb safe.
Howie.
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10b4me
Trad climber
Bishop(hopefully)
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2003 - 12:31pm PT
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Anyone know of a route in the very nexk crack chimney right of Tunnel Vision?
In Swains guide, on the TV topo, he mentions a route called Stilgars. He doesn't give route beta though.
When I led this part of TV, I almost followed that route. Fortunately, made the decision to go left.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Nov 21, 2003 - 05:43pm PT
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Stilgar's Wild Ride is covered in the Urioste red book ("The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste, 1984, newly reprinted with white cover), and the Tunnel Vision description is based on Stilgar's since they start in the same place. FA Bob Healy, Joe Herbst, spring '74. It starts where Tunnel Vision does, then "soon veers off to the right in obvious cracks to the right of the main crack and flake system. Midway up the wall, a leftward traverse regains the main crack and flake system..." and in the TV description, "the right facing corner and flake system located directly above the entrance to the tunnel is the upper half of Stilgar's Wild Ride." Pro: "take a large selection, including a 4-inch, a 5-inch, and a 6-inch nut."
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PT
Trad climber
CO
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Nov 21, 2003 - 07:25pm PT
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Stilgers is a nice variation to tunnel vision with a cool wide crack (a tad run out) and a nice face traverse back over to Tunnel vision.
I climbed The Next Century last weekend and I would highly recommend it and Y2K. Out of Control is a great one pitch crack route that doesn't seem to see too much traffic. Also look at Red Zinger and Goobies for Gumbies for awesome crack pitches. Another excellent climb in the Mescalito area that I haven't seen many people on is Edge of the Sun. It is a great 3 pitch mixed route.
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Donny Quijote
Boulder climber
Veracruz, Mexico
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Nov 21, 2003 - 08:34pm PT
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Make sure you don't miss "Peace of Redemption." Should be a classic.
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2004 - 02:14pm PT
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Ginger Cracks is a great route if Crymson is lined up. Does anybody know what that route to the left of the Black tower on Ringtail and Rainbow Butress is?
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Oct 13, 2004 - 04:04am PT
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Anything else here as we enter the season I wonder about brown recluse and the routes across from it in the juniper canyon area. near .... the hour glass.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!