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clustiere
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 4, 2003 - 03:16am PT
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I was thinking about the lines that were going to occur this red rocks season and thought it would be great to share a list of the lesser know routes (ie not starred in the Swain Book).
Mushroom People 1p 5.10+
Chasing Shadows 3p 5.10 rapped over it and it looked great
THe Next Century 2p 5.10
Y2K a newer classic 4p 5.10
Pine Nuts 2p 5.9+ sweet little roof with jugs
Olive Oil 7p 5.7 well known for its sweet hand crack
Warning Paiute pillar is a death trap
Ginger Cracks 7p 5.9 havent done it but heard multiple good things
Horn Dogger Select 5.8+ 0r new 5.10? var on p8 goes strait up to rap chains w 2 ropes a few raps(2?) brings you back to the top of SS GUllly
Ring tail to Rainbow butress IV 5.10+ one sport protected traverse crux. Another stem corner w fingers makes this route a varnish wonderland of great climbing w/new bolts.
Inti Watana is not as good as the book inplies but it is a long 12p mostly bolted 5.10. nowhere near as sustained as the BVW sport routes
Bruja's Brew looks great 4p 5.9
Whiskey peak is just great rock a few that stick out are
Sand Felipe 1p5.10
Wholesome Fullback 2p 5.10- should be 5.10
Our Father 3p 5.10 w a rebolted (on the better rock) 5.9r second pitch, I only rapped over it as the crowds were all over this.
The Gobbler to the Yellow Brick Road via the Dream of wild Turkey traverse back wards (bring a purple or green camalot for belay with a bolt of the traverse. Thsi makes a great link up. (on second pitch stop and belay on the top of the squeeze part there are two bolts. Look out for the new route that wants to decieve you aout right as the real route goes left (look hard you will see the bolts( more than topo shows)
Anybody else have a few lesser known classics.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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First off, comments on your list:
I'd give Pine Nuts a 5.10b and an R, the holds on that roof were creaking on me and the pro was marginal. This Ain't No Disco was fun, 5.8 not 9+, R but not that bad, bit loose.
Next Century is solid 10+, Y2K is killer 10-
The new variation on Horndogger over the roof is Sundog, Joanne Urioste gives it 5.9 in her new supplement but it's definitely 10a, bring at least one 4"-5" cam for the last pitch (or lots of thin stuff including smallest two lowe balls for 5.9 face var.)
Others:
Arrow Place, first 3 pitches, skip top (recent rockfall in descent gully), bring thin pro for start (like lowe balls).
Group Therapy, rad 5.7 roof chimney near the top, but have to grunt up hollow offwidth on second. Heard that Healy's Haunted House is good.
Mountain Beast, starts Ringtail then goes left on the 3rd pitch or so, maybe some bad bolts in that area, looks awesome (in new Red Book Supplement). Joanne calls the crux of Ringtail 11a in that new supplement.
Diet Delight was good, not a standard edge pull.
The new arete variation on Beulah's Book is great - a few nuts, a few bolts, sling a horn, links back into the long lieback, just killer.
Only the Good Die Young, bad ass, mostly 5.10, bolt ladder 5.11 (traversing roof, then traversing thin face). All bolts replaced.
We did something not in any guidebook opposite Olive Oil, one section of runout 5.9 on super-delicate holds, but tons of fun climbing, around 8 pitches, you end up at the Brownstone Wall. Some loose stuff, not many ascents (no evidence of anything but I bet Joe Herbst was there about when I was born). Email me if you want a topo, there's lots of other stuff you could try there. Some thrashing through scrub oak to approach.
Chuckwalla - kicks butt, George Urioste led us up it and we replaced all the bolts. Major approach. Better for longer days, nice pools for swimming.
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clustiere
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2003 - 10:05am PT
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Great beta. It can be hard to distinguish between the good and bad routes.
I have heard that Eagle Dances aid pitch goes at 5.12, any confirmations. Has it been freed at all.
Also the Crux of Resolution Arete is now 5.12 but also aidable @ C1, the rock on thsi route is not as good as the other classics, but its sooo long, we linked many of the bottom pitches using a 70m rope.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Yeah, I remember hearing that Eagle Dance went free, but then I couldn't find anything about that. Also not sure if it was on lead up the original line of bolts, on lead but runout up this dirty groove over left, or on top rope up one or the other.
Anyone know?
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HandCrack
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal.
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Ah, this is good stuff...
First, a few comments on your picks:
Ginger Cracks - Yes, a great one, easy 5.9. You can now do four pitches and rap, but really, do the whole thing.
Bruja's Brew - A worthy route when others are taken.
Sand Felipe - Great edging that goes on and on.
Healy's Haunted House - First pitch is excellent. The rest has its moments, but not spectacular.
And some climbs I've stumbled across over the years. Some are actually fairly well known by some.
Classic Crack, 5.8 in Calico Basin. Well named. Will give the 5.8 leader a good workout.
Physical Grafitti, 5.6 in Calico Basin. Jugs up a crack.
Great Red Book, 5.8. A well-known classic.
Space Case, 5.7 and Head Case, 5.8 in Willow Spring area. I didn't do the original Case Face route, Hard Case, 5.9. It had a burly looking flared section.
Spare Rib, 5.8 up near Crimson Chrysalis. Four 80 ft. pitches. A great option if you lose your place in line for CC. Also look at Test Tube, 5.9 just left of Spare Rib. It's three pitches of interesting-looking chimney, if you're into that kind of thing. Check the Urioste book for route info.
The Necromancer. Can't go wrong with any of these routes.
The Friar, first pitch, 5.7 in Oak Creek. A wonderful 100 ft. pitch. I got weathered off - heard the top pitch is hard and scary.(?)
Coltrane, 5.9 in Oak Creek. Long (but nice) walk for a short, hard move (5.9? I don't think so!) 20 ft. off the start of the route, then fun easy slabs to the top.
Shaeffer's Delight, 5.7 in Black Velvet Canyon. From the Supertopo guide. A great warm-up. I didn't notice any bad rock at the start.
Sweet Little Whore, 5.9 at Illusion Crags. Listed as Slight of Hand in the Swain guide. A perfect finger crack start to easier steep juggy climbing higher.
Well, that's enough for now. I'm sure I've left out lots of good ones. I'd love to see some locals give up some of their well kept secrets!
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clustiere
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2003 - 04:25pm PT
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I have heard great things about the wall across from Olive Oil. It looks as if there are at least 3 splitter crack lines that must have been climbed, I'll be out there this winter fer sure.
Also the Challenger wall up the south fork of Pine Creek is supposedly great for hard sport climbing?????
How about some classics on the rainbow wall (besides the original route which is terrific)
Greg if you could send me a topo of that long route across from Olive Oil that would be great my Email is rcrochiere@prescott.edu sorry i can't email you directly right now as my system has a bug for sending now (but it is fine to recieve). Thanks
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Challenger Wall is mostly 5.10d-11 trad, talk to Mike Ward to get an old Jay Smith topo. We scouted the trail (heads off left about 90 mins up Pine Creek), it was difficult to find and had clearly seen very little recent traffic. I have a couple pictures, if you're really interested one of them might help find the trail. Looks like it's a warmer weather crag, all shade and approach is probably 2hrs (going fast) once you know exactly where it is.
Greg
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Oh yeah, also opposite Olive Oil: along the wall before the main wall with cracks, and up the gully past that wall with cracks, are at least 6 bolted anchors in the range of 1-2 pitches up the wall, there are a lot of good looking routes, no beta anywhere that I could find. Saw the anchors from something we did left of Olive Oil.
Greg
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Mad Dog
climber
Podunk, Ameruka
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First comments about other's suggestions:
Ginger Cracks: I thought of it as a good quality 5.7 route with a touch of soft 9, well protected. We were a little confused by Swain's topo WRT finding the start. Look for the features near the start of P2 and you'll find it easily.
Group Therapy: I agree, Greg, this is excellent. Probably not a good first 5.7 lead. That Joe Herbst guy had an eye for a route.
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Other ideas: Frigid Aire Buttress is a fine route. It's not all that impressive to look at from below, but, other than P2, it's great quality and has a huge variety of climbing from face to fingers, hand, OW and chimney. All of the cruxes have excellent pro and solid rock. The initial part of the descent was a bit confusing but once down that part, it's a cruise. The waterfall area you rap down is pretty amazing - I need to get in there in the early spring sometime. If you're wanting to do something mid length with an easy approach, this is it!
The NE Arete of Bridge Mountain is a cool adventure. I had originally planned to link Frigid Aire Buttress to it but ended up doing the scramble approach from south of Icebox up to the right edge of the red/blonde stripe, then did 2 chimney pitches to get to the traverse of the hanging valley. We descended into Laurel Canyon where friends had left a car. The walkoff from the summit is incredible - some of the wildest 3rd class you'll ever see.
Anyone ever do Dark Shadows or another route to the top of Mescalito? How did you top out from the last described Dark Shadows pitch in the red book? How did you descend? Looks cool.
If you want a short day of cragging, Icebox has a bunch of great possibilities, for both hot and cold days. Cold September Morning is a really fun 1-pitch route, also put up by Herbst. Take a 3.5 or 4 Camalot. Wild stuff for 5.8. Plenty of other fun stuff in the area. Easy approach.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Mad Dog - Dark Shadows descent:
At the top of Dark Shadows there's a huge ledge (50' wide, trees), which you can use to traverse off right. Some confusion on the descent stems from people considering the ledge the top of the wall vs. going to the actual top. We used the ledge, so don't know anything about the true summit descent.
Going right on the ledge, you do a little bit of 3rd class chimney stuff up & behind a tower, then work your way along and down slabs and bushes until you reach a drop-off with a bolted rap anchor on a slab. The anchor has bolts that are sticking part way out (not too nasty though) and long slings, and it's a full double-rope rappel from there into a neat chimney. The problem is that the bolts should have been placed 50' northeast on a vertical wall so that you can pull the ropes. With two 60m ropes, we carefully kept the knot on the best side to pull from and avoided any twists, then I had to take the very end of the rope way back from the chimney & up a big boulder and pull from there to get it to budge in the slightest. Eventually got the sucker pulled, but it would be easy to get ropes stuck and no way to get them back except ascend the ropes and try again.
After that, we descended into a bowl with a couple chimney/gully systems leading down towards the N fork of Pine Creek. We took the right most system, and after 2 or 3 short rappels down the chimney from trees/slung boulders (lots of slings & rap rings), did a full 200' rap into the canyon bottom, and that was overhung for the last 50'.
As far as the route, we forgot to bring the route description, and missed the 30 ft leftward traverse on pitch 7. Going straight up the right crack is fun 5.8 R with good small nuts every 20-30 ft but delicate holds, then a short 5.9 section (good thin cams), but above that we ended up in a steep & tricky 5.9 wide chimney section, just before the ledge (valley 5.9 not epinephrine 5.9).
Planning to go back sooner or later with a replacement kit, the few belay bolts are in poor shape, especially the one on top of pitch 6 (which is best skipped, but still it's the only protection in there; you can back up the protection bolt on pitch 7 and belay from there). We never saw the pitch 7 top anchor, not sure if you can back it up. On another trip we replaced the original pitch 4 anchor and the pitch 5 protection bolt, but didn't go higher.
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JohnDoe
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Nov 11, 2003 - 02:23pm PT
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A great thread. Hard copy in hand. I look forward to exploring some of these climbs. Thanks for the beta! Climb Ohn. Wally
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clustiere
Trad climber
prescott, az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2003 - 12:34pm PT
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Can anybody give a brief account on the Westen Spaces Wall.
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clustiere
Trad climber
phoenix ,az
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2003 - 12:35am PT
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Hymm how about the buffalo wall.
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Nov 21, 2003 - 11:07am PT
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This is great guys.
Had my first visit to RR in October. Loved it so much off back next April with a big gang of us.
Great info.
Anyone know of a route in the very nexk crack chimney right of Tunnel Vision? Don't thik its Group Therapy. Led this by accident and had a full 55m out with four pieces in. Managed to take a stance in a notch about 15feet right of the pitch into the cave of Tunnel vision. If you lent out backwards one could just spy the tree on GT, higher and to the right. Some else has been there as I pulled a couple of biners off rap slings. Nice booty. The pitch was a great stem and off width climb.
Let me know.
Climb safe.
Howie.
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10b4me
Trad climber
Bishop(hopefully)
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2003 - 12:31pm PT
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Anyone know of a route in the very nexk crack chimney right of Tunnel Vision?
In Swains guide, on the TV topo, he mentions a route called Stilgars. He doesn't give route beta though.
When I led this part of TV, I almost followed that route. Fortunately, made the decision to go left.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Nov 21, 2003 - 05:43pm PT
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Stilgar's Wild Ride is covered in the Urioste red book ("The Red Rocks of Southern Nevada by Joanne Urioste, 1984, newly reprinted with white cover), and the Tunnel Vision description is based on Stilgar's since they start in the same place. FA Bob Healy, Joe Herbst, spring '74. It starts where Tunnel Vision does, then "soon veers off to the right in obvious cracks to the right of the main crack and flake system. Midway up the wall, a leftward traverse regains the main crack and flake system..." and in the TV description, "the right facing corner and flake system located directly above the entrance to the tunnel is the upper half of Stilgar's Wild Ride." Pro: "take a large selection, including a 4-inch, a 5-inch, and a 6-inch nut."
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PT
Trad climber
CO
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Nov 21, 2003 - 07:25pm PT
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Stilgers is a nice variation to tunnel vision with a cool wide crack (a tad run out) and a nice face traverse back over to Tunnel vision.
I climbed The Next Century last weekend and I would highly recommend it and Y2K. Out of Control is a great one pitch crack route that doesn't seem to see too much traffic. Also look at Red Zinger and Goobies for Gumbies for awesome crack pitches. Another excellent climb in the Mescalito area that I haven't seen many people on is Edge of the Sun. It is a great 3 pitch mixed route.
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Donny Quijote
Boulder climber
Veracruz, Mexico
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Nov 21, 2003 - 08:34pm PT
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Make sure you don't miss "Peace of Redemption." Should be a classic.
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2004 - 02:14pm PT
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Ginger Cracks is a great route if Crymson is lined up. Does anybody know what that route to the left of the Black tower on Ringtail and Rainbow Butress is?
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Oct 13, 2004 - 04:04am PT
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Anything else here as we enter the season I wonder about brown recluse and the routes across from it in the juniper canyon area. near .... the hour glass.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Oct 14, 2004 - 12:11pm PT
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Negro Blanco, and Woodrow, on Mt. Wilson. Both are big and bold.
Yee-ha!
JL
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RRCNCA
climber
Nevada
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Oct 14, 2004 - 01:30pm PT
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These are some lesser done good routes: Community Pillar (Pine Creek 5.9), Edge of the Sun (Pine Creek 5.10), Aquarium (Juniper Canyon across from Olive Oil 5.8+ 1300' tall if started from canyon floor), Gift of the Wind Gods Mt. Wilson 5.11- 12 pitches), Woman of Mtn Dreams (Mt. Wilson 5.11 19 pitches), Sick for Toys (Back of Black Velvet Canyon 5.10 FRICTION), Orange Clonus (Pine Creek 5 pitches 5.10+), Red Zinger (Oak Creek 5.10 2 pitch dihedral), The Fox (Calico Basin 5.10+ 2 pitch dihedral), Breakaway (Ice Box Canyon 5.10 bolted) I highly recommend all of these. There should be NO ONE home when you arrive!!!
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Oct 15, 2004 - 11:34am PT
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Clustiere, you say Paiute Pillar is a death trap. I'm curious about this route and Bird Hunter Buttress. Swain says "supposedly excellent." It's a long walk so it won't be crowded, the buttress just soars, and it looks old school run out. All in all, very attractive. Old bolts? Bad rock? What have you heard?
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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Oct 17, 2004 - 02:19pm PT
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Hiked up to the buffalo wall a couple of years ago.
The approach is just as burly as you might imagine. More so than the rainbow wall as there is more than one section of 5th class climbing to deal with. That being said the rock looked quite good (better than rainbow wall) and the 2 exsisting routes looked good as well.
Some of my favorite lesser know classic's
Risky business 4 ptich's 5.10+ R on the mescalito.
I've done the first 2 pitch's twice now and they are SWEET! For whatever reason I keep rapping without doing the second half, but fully plan to go back...I've heard they're more of the same stellar climbing.
Chicken Eruptus 5.10- R on the ragged edges wall. The R rating is NBD, and the climbing is fun.
Bruja's brew is super good as well.
The Sensous Mortician is another classic that see's little traffic but is defiantly a worthy route.
josh
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Oct 17, 2004 - 02:56pm PT
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Bird Hunter, as i recall has about 40 bolts on it, all 1/4" death bolts and all need to be replaced. a few belays have these things with no possibility to back up w/ natural gear. I hear the line itself it stellar.
I'll respectfully disagree with Greg on Sundog. It's 5.9 at the crux, and no harder than 5.8 anywhere else.
Stilgars is MUCH better than Tunnelvision (and longer), but its spicy and a tad runout up top. Only a little loose rock. We didnt carry anything bigger than a #4 camalot on it and i dont remember wanting anything bigger. Definitely not a beginner 5.8, though.
Ginger Cracks is a great route....I dont know if i'd call it a 5.7 route with soft 5.9, though. Alot of people misread the topo on the first pitch and climb the wrong crack...
Frigid Air Buttress is one of my favorites and well worth doing. The climbing is good the whole way up and the last pitch makes the climb great.
Chasing Shadows is 5.8, by the way, not 5.10. Its actually a great variation. Havent done the last 50', though...too hot, had to escape into Dark Shadows after the offwidth.
Burlesque looks really good, although I havent climbed it yet. It goes 5.9 offwidth and basically ascends the Frigid Air rappel route.
Some other great routes:
Straight Shooter, 5.9+: perfect fingers
Topless Twins, 5.9: just a nice climb
Magenellic Cloud, 5.9: somewhat tricky pro, but good climbing makes it fun.
Cold September Corner, 5.8: old school 5.8!
Our Father, 5.11 something (the first pitch is fun 5.8).
Sunflower, 5.9R: Probably the best route on the Solar Slab wall...but its rarely climbed.
Red Zinger, 5.10+: To the right of Solar Slab, this one looks like an IC splitter in a corner.
Black Magic, 5.8: To the right of Lotta Balls. Just as good, but more sustained climbing.
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Brad Singer
Trad climber
Lake Arrowhead, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2004 - 04:14pm PT
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Best of the (possibly) lesser known routes I've done at Red Rocks is Nightcrawler (5.10) on the Brownstone Wall. Wish someone would take it to the top of the wall instead of finishing on the pillar.
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Oct 19, 2004 - 10:06pm PT
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Brad,
Ryan here, lets finish that if your finger can handle it. How was Sedona?
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Oct 19, 2004 - 10:20pm PT
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I climbed Piaute Pillar after doing Epinephrine and so my opinion may have been swayed based on relativity. Still I do recall the following based on my scribbles in my book, 230ft pitches large death plates and flakes ripping off, 4 pieces of gear per pitch (3 were micro stoppers) perhaps off route at the very top ( no harder than 5.9rrrr)the first pitch (on topo) was great and we started the route from the creek bed adding perhaps 4-6 piches of 5.7-8r climbing up a crack system. I left a cam just sitting on a ledge its your if you find it but you have to tell me for laughs sake. Good luck.
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vegastradguy
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Oct 20, 2004 - 01:54am PT
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the two climbs in Calico:
Atman, 5.10
Yin and Yang, 5.11
both of these are supposedly outstanding!
as for Our Father- no bolts were added, i think. its still runout enough to make me shudder at the thought of actually climbing it. (i only led the 1st pitch at a measly 5.8!)
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Nov 13, 2004 - 02:45pm PT
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wondering about linking the pink tornado right or left to gwondonna land boogie or scotty anybody done this link up on Mt Wilson Brennon and Kennega say they couldn't link it because of a headwall (them be solid climbing folk) so I am wondering if their is a secret.
clust
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Nov 16, 2004 - 04:09am PT
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nobody?
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TomMoulin
climber
Las Vegas
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Nov 17, 2004 - 12:13pm PT
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Don't know anything about that link up,
Some lesser known classics
Although off by itself the Fox is a contender for the best single picth in Red Rock.
I agree w/ RRNCA Community Pillar is super neat, unique climbing, chimneys, alcoves. Also that crack pitch on Orange Clonus is fantastic, the rest is not so hot.
The wall to the right of Epinephrine (lone star, texas hold'em) has really nice rock, and a roof that looks WILD.
Anybody know about Heart of Darkness above Dark Shadows?
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Recently climbed Sunflower and Mountain Beast they were great..............
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clustiere
Big Wall climber
running springs, ca
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Feb 23, 2005 - 02:49pm PT
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how about gwondonnaland boogie
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 23, 2005 - 03:22pm PT
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When we did Epinephrine on Nov. 19 there was a line of fixed ropes about 75' to the right of Epi going up around a 1000' - any idea what they were all about? Looked interesting.
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DavisGunkie
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Feb 23, 2005 - 03:56pm PT
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i have a question when entering the canyon for Olive oil. we ended up tryin gthis real thin seamed corner thinking it was olive oil at first but ended up backing off of it after my partner broke a hold and ended up with a twisted ankle.
you go up and traverse around a small buttress to a large ledge with another 15 foot section before you hit the corner.
apparently soeone else had been near there since there was a small rotting sling on a sad little bush up there.
was that an actual route?
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Nightcrawler, Hourglass diversion good to do both only need one rope!!!!!!!!!!!!
Aquarium is ok..
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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"Anybody know about Heart of Darkness above Dark Shadows?"
From the last belay on Dark Shadows, travese dead left (.11a) then head straight up. No bolts. Open face. Pretty good run outs. Lots of wires. A touch of 5.10, but mainly necky 9. 4 or 5 more pitches depending on how you rig the belays. Never heard of anyone repeating this after Lynn Hill, Richard Harrison, Randy Grandstaff and I did the first ascent in the late 70s. But surely someone has repeated such an obvious and striking line.
JL
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OW
Trad climber
Patagonia
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"Never heard of anyone repeating this after Lynn Hill, Richard Harrison, Randy Grandstaff and I did the first ascent in the late 70s. But surely someone has repeated such an obvious and striking line."
I saw slides of a guy from Oregon that did it. He thought the roof was 10+ and funky to protect. Your gang left fixed pins in the roof or were they placed by a previous aid attempt?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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"I saw slides of a guy from Oregon that did it. He thought the roof was 10+ and funky to protect. Your gang left fixed pins in the roof or were they placed by a previous aid attempt?"
I don't remember the roof having any pro--I think I just ran it off the belay. Maybe that's why I remember it as 5.11a. Be interesting to know if there's been any bolts added above. Felt a little sketchy up there with three guys hanging off wires at the belay as the leader ran the rope over creaky boilerplates 1,000 off the deck.
JL
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Oct 21, 2005 - 04:09pm PT
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Mountain Beast\, Aquarium, Sunflower
? do you think that Red Rocks has more stone than Yosemite??????????
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flamer
Trad climber
denver
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Oct 21, 2005 - 08:22pm PT
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RR might have more rock than Yose....there is so much back in those canyons....tough to tell....
Couple of more comments and routes to add here.....
I finished Climbing Risky Business last spring...the whole thing is absolutly stellar. It's Neighbor, Excellent Adventure is also good, but is not only a step up in Difficulty but also in seriousness.
Climbed a route Largo put up on the Mescalito...The Walker Spur...this route is extremely good. Aboout as close to climbing in the Valley as you can get in RR.
Largo....that bolt is junk!!
Also how would you feel about someone adding a bolt on the first pitch? I'm not planning on doing it, but a certain prominent local thought it would be a good idea....
josh
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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AH ha the seson is here for red rocks, so in order to keep the crowds dispursed lets keep the list going.
Did unimpeachable groping 7-8p 5.10+ sport with a direct start that was like .10+ too soo dont climb the tree, just bring green yellow and red aliens tye off tree if you need (if I recall you only need teh yellow)it was excelent. Also good was Black Magic. Frigid Air Buttress was awesome, blue bunny was a fun rap up to the day. I was wondering about Clod Tower, and the upper pitches of the Nightcrawler. I am really interested in the Gift of the Wind gods. Any body know what the route to tthe right of power failure is, I recall a bolted beautiful dihedral the upper section seemed less obvious.
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BrentA
Gym climber
Las Vizzle, on the rizzle
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Nightcrawler tops out no prob. Just keep climbing up. I find TV to be much more enjoyable and interesting than Stilgars.
Someone mentioned Texas Holdem here, and I found it to be pretty uninteresting, except for that hand's pitch which is superb!
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Oct 10, 2006 - 02:29am PT
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bump
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NoRushNoMore
climber
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Oct 10, 2006 - 05:07am PT
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Risky Business (as mentioned above), very fun and .. risky just a bit. Last pitch is 10a at most, 5 bolts or so
Rap with one 70m rope.
La Clerta Edad (Strawberry Shubert). Super adventure.
Pitches 2-3 are a quite a bit harder then 9+ or 10a as suggested by the Brock's book. Bring up to #4 camalot
Walk to the right on the large ledge at the top of the pitch 4 (90' or so) and rap Unfinished Symphony (skip 5 and 6, they don't worth it)
Pitch 4 of Triassick Sands, not in the supertaco book but super, indian creek like corner perfect hands
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WoodySt
Trad climber
Riverside
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Oct 10, 2006 - 12:22pm PT
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"Healy's Haunted House" is a good route, but be aware that the second pitch begins with a runout that carries great risk.
You rap "Dark Shadows". Excellent route I've done twice. "Lotta Balls Wall" is loaded with excellent routes as is "The Necromancer". "Frogland" is a classic.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Oct 10, 2006 - 12:32pm PT
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Josh wrote: "Climbed a route Largo put up on the Mescalito...The Walker Spur...this route is extremely good. Aboout as close to climbing in the Valley as you can get in RR.
Largo....that bolt is junk!!
Also how would you feel about someone adding a bolt on the first pitch? I'm not planning on doing it, but a certain prominent local thought it would be a good idea...."
Kindly refresh my memory about Walker Spur. I draw a total blank on that one. And what "bolt" are you talking about??
JL
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Moonbluff
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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Oct 25, 2006 - 07:40pm PT
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First of all, I'll second a recommendation for any of the following in Red Rock:
Bruja's Brew
Group Therapy
Stilgar's Wild Ride
Black Dagger - the best 5.7 in the park
Frigid Air Buttress
Horndog and Sundog
Spare Rib and Test Tube
Burlesque
Black Orpheus
Nadia's Nine (more like 10a!)
Arrow Place
Community Pillar
And, I'd add to the list:
Peaches 5.9 variant, Children's Crag, Willow Springs, overhanging lieback, burly single pitch
Purblind Pillar (5.8) a new route put up by Karl Wilcox and Joanne U. on Angel Food Wall
Rawlpindi (5.8) next to Birdland, a new route put up by Karl and Heidi Wilcox
The Big Horn (5.8) next to Birdland, single pitch, finger crack crux
Rainbow Buttress (5.8) we did the right side variation - the thin crack in the dihedral. Long day!
Refried Brains (5.9)
Small Purchase (5.9) a good dihedral
Splitting Hares (5.8), a new route next to Next Century
Illusion Crags, south of Windy Peak, has several good routes on quality rock. Use the Swain guide, Brock blew it here. Routes include:
Arm Forces (5.9)
Slight of Hand (5.9)
First Lady of Magic (5.9)
Deez Guys (5.8)
Solar Slab has a couple of good new routes:
Sandstone Overcast (5.8 C1) between Johnny Vegas and Beulah's Book, quality p1, fun 40' overhang to aid up (thin) on p3.
Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
Heliotrope (5.8R)
MysterZ (5.7) is good, but linking it to Armatron (a new 5.9 on Brownstone) is lovely!
Nevada Book (5.8) is a fun route near Running Man Wall, similar to Great Red Book.
Peanut Butter and Jam (5.9) at Chocolate Rocks is a burly Herbst OW, fun!
Lebanese Jojo (5.9) in Icebox was good until it got retrobolted.
NE Arete of Bridge (5.6) is so so climbing is a stunning setting. Getting there is all the fun.
Intestinal Flu (5.8) is good OW at Sheep Skull, a sandbag.
Take Cat in the Hat to the top of Mescalito. Lots of hiking followed by one more pitch. Descend the same. Beta in the DeAngelo book.
Drat Crack and Goodtime Charlie (both 5.8) next to Gourmet Miel in Icebox were fun single pitch routes.
Atras (5.8) in the gulley to the left of Necromancer in Icebox is a good old school route.
There is definitely good climbing off the beaten path, away from the crowds. Jonny
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Mar 22, 2008 - 04:47pm PT
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Yeah I frigging bailed on the route years ago. Funny because then I went out and did mushroom people. I was scared of the wide, I shoule go back now that I got Keekler under my belt.
I am winderign if any other routes are comming to mind
Primarily I am looking to do a few routes up on Wilson.
So pink tornado right or left to gwondonnaland boogie?
The Women of mountain dreams.
what else i have done Res arete and Inti .
Other routes I am wondering about is the complete Dark Shadows and Cartwright Corner. Clod tower????
????
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Double D
climber
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Mar 22, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
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Java on the 1st ascent of Mushroom People
One of the coolest things I remember about climbing at RR was "alpine" training on long ridges. Finding one that had ledges every 10-15' with moderate bouldering from ledge to ledge. The crux was knowing or finding a way to get down...it's complicated there.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Mar 22, 2008 - 09:53pm PT
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Secondhand beta alert:
A couple friends of mine did the entire Dark Shadows a couple years ago, they had an old guide and didn't know most people rapped.
They reported the climbing above as very run out, couple of crappy pieces per pitch. Mostly .8 & .9 and less? They also had an epic rappel, but I think if you know the walk off to mescalito you'd be ok.
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Landgolier
climber
the flatness
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Mar 22, 2008 - 10:35pm PT
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Mushroom people is good, don't miss Topless Twins (5.9) and Heavy Spider Karma (5.6 but worth it) left of there. Don't get temped by the easy stuff left of HSK, though, the rock is schitt and they're twice as long as the guides say.
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spectreman
Trad climber
Fort Collins
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Mar 22, 2008 - 10:57pm PT
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The route "Drifting" is absolutely incredible!
Check out the Jungle Wall as well, it has two classic 5.11 pitches.
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Indianclimber
climber
Las Vegas
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Mar 22, 2008 - 11:00pm PT
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Peyote Power(5.9) to the right of Dark Shadows is a great climb and a good alternative if Dark Shadows is busy
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Sherri
climber
WA
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Mar 23, 2008 - 12:36am PT
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Landgolier said, "...don't miss Heavy Spider Karma (5.6 but worth it) left of there. Don't get temped by the easy stuff left of HSK, though, the rock is schitt and they're twice as long as the guides say."
Thanks for the heads up on that "easy stuff" left of HSK...I was going to head over there with a couple of non-climbers, thinking they could be entertained by trying a few laps on the easier(sub 5.6)stuff before I took a stab at some of the moderates there.
Maybe not the best place for them to try their shoes out, from the sounds of it. I don't want to freak them(one of them is my mom.)
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SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
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Mar 23, 2008 - 01:00am PT
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I cant't help myself here.
I love "Group Therapy" like I love a few women in my life. Such a sweet, sweet route. We did it because Tunnel Vison as taken by slow noobs. I swear, I have no regrets.
Group is a mostly easy route with places that make you go "humm" but can be protected and is fun and exposed the whole time. Just one of those routes that allways be favorite of mine forever.
And I just did one of my local favorites, "Festering Crabs" in Arkansas today. Climbed that thing a dozen times and still love it. Do some routes become like an old girlfriend, you just want to do them over and over?
SammyLee
Edit to add, Festering was my first trad lead, and today, I let (so to speak) my good buddy, Demetri, make his first lead on Festering. He did well. good on ya man!
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Mar 23, 2008 - 12:06pm PT
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Sammy what makes it so good? Interestingly enough I have heard similar feedback and I often don't pay much attention to 5.7 routes in RR cause of a)huge horns too eZ and b) low angle chimney/gullies/ledges. But I did enjoy black dagger and olive oil but hated Geranamo.
Fridgid air
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SammyLee2
Trad climber
Memphis, TN
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Mar 23, 2008 - 12:16pm PT
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It was good for me because I am not such a good climber. The big horns, being less than vertical combined with good exposure made it fun. Plus that chimney near the top adds a little spice. It looks harder than it is which made me feel good about making it.
Also, it was my first multi-pitch climb and my first time at RR. You know how it is with those "First Times" ;-)
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Sherri
climber
WA
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Mar 23, 2008 - 02:28pm PT
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Geronimo was my first RR multi. I thought it was stellar in every respect(moves, exposure, rock quality). That could have been because I had nothing to compare it to, but now that I've done a couple of others, I still hang on to that one as my favorite.
Maybe one does tend to view that "first time" through impressionable eyes.
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Mar 23, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
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I thought "One eyed Jack" was such an awesome feature. Those pockets next to the crack were so rad.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Mar 24, 2008 - 01:08pm PT
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Sweet I gight have to head out to willow springs some time here.
I guess that MT. Wilson is the road less traveled. Are people aware that you can do Inti Watana which is a 5.10 sport climb and join the upper pitches of Resolution Arete which goes no harder than maybe one pitch of 5.8/9 crack to the top of MT Wilson SO hear me now 16-20 pitch route with crux 5.10 bolted on 2nd pitch and more people don't go up here??? Wow This is like Ray Jardines dream of the Nose on Red Rocks biggest piece of Rock and people don't sign up?? Well if your looking for a way to get up the biggest baddest rock in the park for climbiing that is easier than the Prince of Darkness there it is. You can even bring two ropes and rap off if you wanted from the top of Inti Watana p12. COme on folks lets see some headlamps up there next weekend!!!!!
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Mar 24, 2008 - 07:19pm PT
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Community Pillar does that require 2 ropes to rap or could I get away with 1 70?
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Mar 26, 2008 - 02:02am PT
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How about The Clod Tower IV 5.10 to the left of Crimson Crysalis?? Any beta or news?????????
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Mar 26, 2008 - 11:40am PT
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The route to the right of Power Failure is called All You can EAT. It was named for the All you can eat sushi on Rainbow which is a regular stop on RR trips. This route may become popular after the upper pitches groom up a bit..
Gondwonna 5.9+? has seen only a couple of repeats though it has been retro bolted for climber pleasure and survivability. Doing the Boogie now would probably still be one of the the first five or six ascents of this lesser known and 'possible' future classic. Linking it with one of the Pink Tornado routes is the obvious directissima way to go just expect more meters of serious climbing than the Res.
Another route that may become popular as it gets more ascents is Amber 5.10 on Whiskey Peak
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Gobi
Trad climber
Orange CA
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Mar 26, 2008 - 01:15pm PT
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I don’t know if anyone has mentioned The Warrior on Cactus flower tower but I think it deserves the title of “Classic”. Not your typical RR climb, not the third pitch anyway. The only bad part is the long approach and some loose rock here and there.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Ok so previously I bad mouthed five seven routes in red rocks but I did Birdland to wrap up my trip and I thought that it was just awesome. Do the splitter black crack on the wall to the left when you descend and you will be smiling. How did these routes get soo popular?
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Greg Barnes
climber
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That dang internet, of course!
Mark asked me to keep Birdland out of the Supertopo guide so I did - he was hoping to keep the crowds down. No luck, word spread, photos and descriptions appeared, and kaboom! - lines, lines, lines. You just can't hide awesome moderate routes unless you tell zero people...and Birdland is one of Red Rock's best.
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tenesmus
Trad climber
slc
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that one is pretty cool
Any opinions on Lone Star? It looks kinda serious but I get kinda psyched reading about it.
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MZiebell
Social climber
Prescott, AZ
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bump
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Sherri
climber
WA
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"Peanut Butter and Jam," a single pitch 5.9 at Chocolate Rocks, is a contender. Despite a 20 minute approach, its outside-of-the-Loop-Road locale keeps it off the radar for most RR visitors. Classic Joe Herbst burlfest.
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NoRushNoMore
climber
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Apr 26, 2008 - 06:24am PT
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From our trip this past weekend:
Adventure Punks, mixed feelings, looks like somebody reverted route to the original state: one bolt at the top of the first and second pitches and no bolts at the top of third (there are visible bolt holes)
First pitch start is 30-35' or so runout before you get a chance to place your first cam behind a crappy flake and may be it was 9+ at some point but rather polished by now. Not sure what FA team did but older topo points to an alternative start some 30 feet left in the dirty right facing corner. First two pitches are longer then 120’ each so don't count on a 70m rope. Third pitch is not a varnished 10a but rather smooth 10b/c corner (dep on your finger size)
Edge of the Sun, very nice ... just keep your cool. First pitch is a bit of a route finding, second half follows corner just some 6 feet left of the main aręte. Second pitch is something else: see of small fragile knobs, only 3 bolts for 140' but there is one micro cam spot 20' of the station and a chicken head you can sling 20' after the last bolt. Third pitch 10d is more like 10c but exposure at the start of it while moving around aręte and above the roof is incredible. Top out is beautiful. You can rap down with one 70m rope that is just barely long enough to get you down.
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say-no-to-rap-bolting!
Trad climber
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Apr 26, 2008 - 10:09am PT
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Ying Yang is awesome...
Largo,
have the 2 bolts been replaced on the crux pitch of woodrow???
looks awesome!
nice essay in the new red rock guide about the first ascent by JL.
read it!
cheers,
ben
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say-no-to-rap-bolting!
Trad climber
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Apr 26, 2008 - 10:33am PT
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and a few good one's:
cut loose(10d) is an awesome flake.
Running man (11d) is my absolute favorite pitch in RR.
Pablo diablo(12d),Sonic Youth(11d), Native Son(11c) and of course Monster Skank(13b) are fun sportclimbs.
and the best of all: Spring Break (11d) a super good face climb following a thin crack providing pro up a stellar buttress in Ice Box Canyon. Just too good to believe it.
Risky business(10cPG13) has some excellent climbing.
Cloud Tower is very classic but not busy at all. With only a few wider sections this is a very good multipitch crackclimb.
Rainbow Country looks brilliant but HARD, didn't climb it.
have fun!
ben
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Moonbluff
Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
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May 19, 2008 - 02:24pm PT
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Just to follow up on Community Pillar - you can get down with four single rope rappels. Beta on Mountain Project or Larry's guide book "Red Rock Odyssey".
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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May 16, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
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Bump to end the Red Rocks season
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Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
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May 16, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
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A little beta on Our Father.
My guidebook said 2 bolts on the 2nd pitch, I only found 1. So the bolts are new but there are less of them. It is about 20' to the first bolt(5.8+), there is a nut placement available but it is only a few feet above the belay ledge, after the bolt it is about 20' to the next gear placement. The crux is 8'-10' above the bolt. I found it to be reasonable.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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May 16, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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There's only one bolt, it used to be doubled (2 bolts right next to each other), that's probably what you saw in the Swain guide. It's been a single good bolt for at least 10 years or so.
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Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
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May 16, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
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That makes sense. If there had been 2 bolts it wouldn't have been runout. Good route, and good list/discussion of lesser known routes.
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Snorky
Mountain climber
Carbondale, CO
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May 22, 2009 - 01:43am PT
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Agree with Mad Dog
Frigid Air Buttress is a superb climb with little traffic. Huge belay ledges. Save some alertness and daylight for the somewhat complex descent. Climbs more like a Yosemite climb.
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Bad Fiducci
climber
Wilson, WY
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Dec 30, 2014 - 05:55am PT
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Try Joanne of Arch, on Windy Peak. Excellent route, no traffic. Go on up and walk off, not that tricky but leave some time for figuring it out. Inobvious descent.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Jan 19, 2017 - 10:14pm PT
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BUMP
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jan 20, 2017 - 11:07am PT
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Good rainy day bump.
It gave me some great endorphin release reading the names and recalling the feel of so many routes that I have done there.
And so many still left to do!
Dry conditions will come again someday, but we need the rain so, no complaining.
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clustiere
Trad climber
berkeley ca
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Jan 25, 2017 - 08:36am PT
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The brownstone wall seems to have had a lot of development in the last decade.
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