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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Another thing that helps is to step your file size down a 32nd when you're halfway thru the length of the tooth after a dozen or so sharpenings, as the tooth is no longer as tall, due to it's front to back taper.
Good one. But at this point given I don't cut that often anymore I also have extra chains and just take'm to the shop with a decent bench grinder setup.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Jun 10, 2015 - 07:01am PT
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When sharpening by hand, use a vise to hold the saw securely.
Forest Service saw instructor, here.
LOL!!!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
dancin on the tip of god's middle finger
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Jun 10, 2015 - 09:51am PT
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take it to the saw shop.
they do up a fine job
and if you bring them several chains
the unit price gets down to around 6 bucks each.
best six bucks you'll ever spend.
plus we help to keep their service / supply shop alive.
ironically,
my local shop here in pollock pines
is a closet hipster joint.
a stage for bearded bohemians
to chat about their current
favorite classical pieces.
and talk politics.
ever the mind-adventure,
each time i step boot in camino power tool.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Jun 10, 2015 - 10:20am PT
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My technique is a bit unconventional, but it's served me well.
Every couple of hours, holding the angle of the blade at a perfect 35-degrees across your thigh, lower the running saw down into the meat of your thigh. You are trying to hold the angle steady as the running chain contacts femur.
Hold it lightly there, with the teeth just barely biting into bone. Keeping the angle steady is critical! Perhaps a friend can help.
The blood is a mess, but it's an integral part of the process as it provides necessary lubrication for the honing process. That's the one major downside I've found in the process. But the pros outweigh the cons.
There is no "honing" material like bone. Also, it's a renewable resource!
I've found that keeping the position right for about five minutes is all you need.
Of course this method won't sharpen a totally dull chain, but it will put a hone on one that's not too far gone. If this method doesn't work, then your chain was too far gone. You can't know until you try.
Oh, and I highly recommend washing the blood out of the chain after each honing session. The clotting can cause stickiness and overheating. If you don't wash, you'll end up with a black, tarry residue, not unlike thick sap, that's a real pain to deal with.
Another tip is to reuse the same point of entry repeatedly during the day. If you feel like the bone is getting a bit thin, you can always move to a new spot, but it's amazing how much honing you can get out of even one spot.
Again, it's an unconventional approach and not for everybody. But nothing beats it for a quick field hone. Literally "rinse and repeat" as needed, and you can go the whole day without any need of a full-on sharpening. I can't think of the last time I needed to take my saw in for a professional bench-sharpening.
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