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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 8, 2015 - 08:32pm PT
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Here's the deal - just came back from a week in the woods at our cabin in the Sierra and the heinous Bark Beetles are running rampant among the pines.
I dropped 15 trees but still need to buck and round them in order to move them out of the area - talking trees in the 60-90 foot range with diameters up to 32 inches.
My problem is with the Oregon B78 chains I am using - the damn things are dulling out after 3-4 hours of work and at 30 bucks a pop I can't justify buying new ones every day.
Which leads me to the subject of field sharpening. In the past I have used rat files and eyeballed the cut - but to be honest - since I had cataract surgery last year my near vision sucks eggs. I have never used bench sharpeners and at 250-400 bucks apiece I not willing to spend until I know it has worth. After all - I can buy 10 or more new chains for that same price and get through the work before they all dull out. (just kidding)
What advice haseth the collective?
Stick with one eye filing or spring for a bench cutter?
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missjr
Trad climber
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I would recommend going with a good quality bar mounted sharpener. My friend who owns a very productive tree service does all his chains with one of these as I do, although there is some technique to it. His is attached to a bench at his shop for stability. We also have a bench grinder that you also mention, however we have never used it since I have been told that they aggressively eat through the metal on the teeth. The chains won't last as long. I have also used a sharpener that you can attach to the car battery that is a grinder and you eye ball it with the angles provided on the chain. This works except they won't give you the accuracy or the same sharpening as the bar mounted sharpener. Hope this helps a bit.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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I think it was Abe Lincoln who said:
"If I had six hours to chop down a tree, I'd spend the first four hours sharpening the axe".
That said, I would much rather chop than sharpen, so treez for the win.
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Ben Harland
Gym climber
Kenora, ON
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I like the Dremel bit. It's quick and effective with no hand filing or jig. I've used a different electric chainsaw sharpener but the stones kept breaking.
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Old&InTheWay
Trad climber
NC
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You can get a guide that fits over the files you're using. That takes out the guess work if you pay attention and have a steady hand. Sharpen the chain when you fill the tank (don't forget the bar oil). Use a sharpy to mark where you started sharpening. I run 5 or 6 file strokes per tooth. Check the chain tension. You may also need to remove the chain, clean out the bar and flip it over so the chain runs the other way especially after a day or so of cutting. Good luck and avoid kick back. Also avoid hitting the dirt with your chain if at all possible.
No need to waste a bunch of money on extra chains. I've had the same chain for 3 years. Keep it clean and sharp and it'll make the job easy.
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Bushman
Social climber
Elk Grove, California
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I been using that guide thingy that clamps into the file too for over 30 years at home and in the field. I try to keep my elbow level for each stroke. Sharp file and a good stump or flat spot not too low to the ground saves the knees and back. Touch up sharpen more often works better than waiting for a dull chain.
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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30 years of cutting up big trees here and the method I use is:
1. keep your saw chain outa the dirt.
2. Use appropriate size round file.
3. Learn to file perpendicular to the saw bar and at consistent 35 degree angle to the front of the powerhead.
4. Take the same number of strokes on every tooth.
Is it the best way? Maybe, maybe not but once mastered all you need is a file. Otherwise get yourself one of the jig thingies mentioned up thread.
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thebravecowboy
climber
liberated libertine
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Bench-mount electric grinders from Stihl, etc are nice but pricy. Harbor Freight has an electric wheel chain grinder that is actually totally worthwhile for your task. I own one and can't really complain at all. Cheaper than paying to have ten chains sharpened.
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Ken M
Mountain climber
Los Angeles, Ca
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Forest Service saw instructor, here.
Unless you are using and sharpening chains often, you will cause a lot of damage using files freehand.
For the occasional sawyer, it is probably far better to get a bar-mounted guide as others have mentioned. It makes fast, accurate work out of the process.
I agree with touching up on each tank so that you keep a very sharp chain, plus it forces you to allow the engine to cool before refueling, as you are advised to do, as well at tightening the chain.
Chain dulling notably in 3-4 hours is about normal, except in oak.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Ive done mine both with a file eyeballing it and with a guided grinder, both out in the feild. I rotate 3 chains and after several sharpenings in the field I'll take one out of rotation and get it done by a professional to get it back to new as can be.
Careful to not take the rakers down too much, it will make it kickback easier?
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thebravecowboy
climber
liberated libertine
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Bench-mount electric grinders from Stihl, etc are nice but pricy. Harbor Freight has an electric wheel chain grinder that is actually totally worthwhile for your task. I own one and can't really complain at all. Cheaper than paying to have ten chains sharpened.
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rincon
climber
Coarsegold
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Just get a pair of glasses. Use the file and guide, it's not rocket science.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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^HaH!
I'm still going with treez approach to jobbing the sharpening out, but I'll be heading north to have The Warbler do mine. (he is steady as rock, no wobbler).
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Chaz
Trad climber
greater Boss Angeles area
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Granberg P-106
This makes it real simple to apply a consistent profile to every tooth.
You'll need to see what you're doing to set it up initially, but once that's done you can sharpen your chain by braile.
Save the box your chain came in, because it'll tell you what size file to use and what angles to set the file guide at.
I don't see a power grinder saving me any effort that's worth the added complexity and chance I'll ruin the chain's tempering by over-heating it.
Manually operated, air cooled, and gravity assisted.
Plus this thing has a cool, old-timey look to it.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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I've been at sharpening my saw chains for 30+ years. (how hard can it be really?) Never really got it right until I checked in with my friend a really good tree surgeon and my mountain guy chainsaw dealer a few years ago.
They both file by hand. PERIOD. And they both gave me about the same instructions.
Warbler gave a clear explanation how to do it.
My tips (many have already been stated)
I got MUCH better when I started using a vise to hold the saw by the bar.
Alternately you can remove the chain, adjust your vise to that it's just slightly wider than the chain drive teeth, drop the chain in. Clamp and file the teeth that are in the vise, loosen vise, move chain, clamp vise, repeat. This works well for a badly worn chain.
KEEP the box the chain came in so you know it's exact file size and filing angles. I'm always amazed how much tooth angles differ.
The simple file guide is very helpful to get the angles right. It doesn't have to be perfect!!! Close is really good enough. I've got a chain that's supposed to be cut at 25 degrees. My guide has a line at 30 degrees. I guesstimate 25 and it works fine.
You can use a chain until the teeth are nearly gone. Much to my surprise! I took a worn chain to my mountain guy to buy a new one and he kinda laughed, put it in his vise and sharpened it...by hand. It worked fine.
Some chains have an engraved diagonal line across all the teeth. When the tooth gets that short it's finished. Otherwise keep sharpening it.
When a tooth cutting edges are completely bright, you're done with that tooth. Remember, there are two edges. The obviously curved vertical edge and the not so obviously curved horizontal (usually also angled) edge BENEATH the flat top of the tooth. On a really dull chain it can take some work to get that edge sharpened evenly. You need to hold the file so that both edges are cut at the same time and therefore same angles.
Some chains have engraved diagonal line across all the teeth. When the tooth gets that short it's finished.
Do NOT file both directions. Only cut in the forward direction. Press file not hard against the tooth so that it contacts both the vertical and horizontal cutting surfaces, run it forward as straight as you can, move file away from tooth and pull it back. Repeat. Learning this motion takes some effort. I find that laying the file guide flat on the angled top surface works well. Remember it doesn't have to be perfect. Press the file rearward against that surface so you cut both at the same time.
File all teeth to the same length. Approximately is good enough. This gets harder the more times the chain is sharpened.
I had a well used chain that I'd managed to get a large difference in tooth lengths. I measured with calipers and found the shortest tooth. Then sharpened all the rest to be close to the same length. That took a long time. Chain is great now.
Take a quick test cut. If the chain isn't cutting good chips do it all over again. Now, all the teeth are bright, so how do you keep your place? I mark the top of the first tooth I sharpen with magic marker.
Quickest way to dull a chain? Hit the dirt or rock for even 1/2 second. Another good way is to let it get loose on the bar.
Whenever I put a chain back on the bar I find have have to re-tension it after only a couple of minutes of cutting. Don't run it loose.
If I'm in the field and the chips are getting smaller, I'll do a quick sharpen right there. If the chain is in good shape it only takes 5 - 10 accurate file strokes to get the edges sharp again. You can test sharpness with your finger. With a little practice you can tell the diff between sharp and not.
One more thing.....If your chain jumps the bar (keep it tensioned properly stoopid...don't ask me how I know) the drive teeth are almost certain to get burred. You won't be able to push the chain along the bar by hand because it will hang up on the nose wheel or the drive sprocket. You usually can't see the burrs but you can feel them with your fingernail. It's slow work but with a sharp medium coarseness flat file you can carefully file the burrs off. Even 1 burr will stop your chain from running.
I always make sure than when properly tensioned I can push the chain all the way around with my fingers.
Files have a finite life. Replace often.
It's quicker and much cheaper to sharpen your own chain than to drive down to the chainsaw store to have them sharpen it or to buy a new one.
Poor eyesight may make properly sharpening your chain impossible.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Track down Blanchard...That guy can sharpen any tool free-hand to a razor sharp edge..
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Ricky D
Trad climber
Sierra Westside
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2015 - 09:22pm PT
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Poor eyesight may make properly sharpening your chain impossible.
This. Had cataract surgery earlier this year and opted for the distance implant and now can't see boo up close.
But I do appreciate the details on chain filing - will probably pick up a bar guide for starters until I get the feel and eye (hah) for freehand filing - cause Lord knows my attempts at free filing so far is causing more harm than good.
Thanks for the input - helps a bunch.
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