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yfever
Big Wall climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 18, 2015 - 10:25am PT
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Condolences to family and friends....This was passage was read at a celebration of life ceremony for another fellow climber that passed on....
"Though my soul may set in darkness it will rise in perfect light, I've loved the stars to fondly to be fearful of the night
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John Black
Social climber
Boulder, CO
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Jun 18, 2015 - 10:29am PT
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Met him once near the elevators in the Eng Center at CU... he was clearly a climber, so we chatted about that. Seemed like a really bright personality.
I can remember making all kinds of stupid mistakes with gear both on walls and just cragging... luckily I managed to catch them before they killed me. But it's so easy to miss something, and oftentimes the smallest oversight can spell disaster. Sorry it happened to such a nice young man.
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MAD BOLTER
Trad climber
CARLSBAD,NM
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Jun 18, 2015 - 06:49pm PT
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MOST OF FATALITIES ON THE WALLS HAPPEN DURING RAPPELLS.
I USE 3 ATTACHMENTS TO THE ROPE AS BACKUPS. ONLY ONCE HAVING TO RELY ON THE BACKUP WHEN I FORGOT TO HOOK ON THE RAP-BRAKE SO I RAPPELLED TO WHERE I WAS GOING USING THE BACKUP I HAVE BEEN USING FOR ABOUT 100 MILES.
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big wall paul
Trad climber
tahoe, CA
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Jun 28, 2015 - 08:49pm PT
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I think we need to remind ourselves of the cluster that often happens on big walls -- all those ropes and gear and limited real estate in which to sort it all. I bet that contributed to this tragedy. I had many close calls myself, due to forgetting which rope is the lead rope, which is the haul rope, and which ropes are merely stacked. And you're constantly moving from rope to gear to rope, I remember finding myself unattached to anything quite a few times.
At least this guy was tied to the end of the rope; I hardly ever was.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 28, 2015 - 10:50pm PT
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Very sorry to hear about this. Nothing to say about it other than those who need help should seek it, KSolem has some good words.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jun 29, 2015 - 10:08am PT
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Double and triple check every system every time.
That's what our boy is yelling down at us from the clouds. Sorry you had to go so early, even if the view is good - but not from here.
Condolences to all his friends and family.
JL
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Gunkie
climber
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Jun 29, 2015 - 01:07pm PT
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I remember getting the total cluster/fatigue thing going full steam when trying to lower off Dolt to the follow the wide-ish 5.9 pitch to the right and above. I remember yelling JUST STOP in my head and tie in really short, just in case. Well, I had a F-up in my lower out and would have had the end of the rope slide through my hand and I would have slammed into the far corner, even with the short tie-off.
It could have been me, too.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jun 29, 2015 - 02:51pm PT
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I'm fairly certain a climber capable of reaching Camp V on the Nose could offer all the same platitudes on rock climbing safety.
The problem here, IMO, in most of these situations, is simply one of humans making mistakes. Sure - develop those good habits, tie the right knots, pay attention, blah, blah, blah - but your safety is not thus assured. I think the ones quickest to believe otherwise are themselves the most dangerous.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jun 29, 2015 - 03:15pm PT
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In sailing, the end of the anchor line is called "The Bitter End." If it gets loose, off you drift onto rocky shore.
I wish climbers would start calling it that. We are always hearing about somebody getting lowered as the end of the rope passes through the gri gri, and down they go.
Man, I always tied into A rope. Pull up twenty feet and tie in on a bight. Such a simple thing. Still it is one of the main ways to get hurt, even when sport climbing.
That said, most of us have made a mistake, but with less severe consequences. Condolences to friends and family.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jun 29, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
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I think the ones quickest to believe otherwise are themselves the most dangerous.
+10,000
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Dick Danger
Trad climber
Lakewood, Colorado
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Jun 30, 2015 - 12:56pm PT
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Very sad news. RIP Tyler. Condolences to friends and family.
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yedi
Trad climber
Stanwood,wa
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Jun 30, 2015 - 03:00pm PT
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Having lost our 24 year old last September, I am acutely aware just how much this affects family and close relationships. Many hugs and sincere condolences, especially to Tyler's parents.
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