Discussion Topic |
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 28, 2015 - 09:48am PT
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Mark Hudon texted me yesterday afternoon from The Valley that a death had occurred above Camp 5 on The Nose yesterday. Does anybody have any details? My sincere condolences for all those involved. It saddens me and scares me how quickly it can go from a beautiful day of climbing to a terrible day so fast. Much tragedy in the mountains lately. Be smart and be safe out there friends.
Scott
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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May 28, 2015 - 10:01am PT
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Bad news , always sad to hear.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 28, 2015 - 10:07am PT
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Very sorry to hear this.
My sincere condolences to friends and family.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 28, 2015 - 10:24am PT
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More grief. I await more info, but already I feel awful. I remember vividly watching the rescue from Camp 5 in the fall of 1972 from a bivy on the Powell-Reed. That accident resulted from a toppled block.
John
P.S. Thanks, SF_Lemur. My condolences to you, your friend, and family. I can't imagine much of anything more wrenching than burying one's child.
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SF_Lemur
Sport climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 11:15am PT
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The climber was my friend's nephew. They aren't releasing the details yet, but Tyler was only 22. When I find out what happened I'll let the forum know.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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May 28, 2015 - 11:20am PT
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My condolences to the Family and Friends of the deceased.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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May 28, 2015 - 11:25am PT
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Thank you SF_Lemur.
We'll keep it respectful.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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May 28, 2015 - 11:28am PT
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Oh No!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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May 28, 2015 - 11:32am PT
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Very sad. So happens that I turned 22 on the Nose.
Condolences to friends and family.
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 11:34am PT
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Damn it man.
Condolences to all involved.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
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May 28, 2015 - 11:54am PT
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Very sorry to hear this.
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crankster
Trad climber
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May 28, 2015 - 12:43pm PT
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Very sad news. RIP, Tyler.
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asioux
Trad climber
Rancho Cucamonga
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May 28, 2015 - 12:57pm PT
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Tyler was the Colorado party? He wore glasses and had a unique voice?
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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May 28, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
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Damn!
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Roushski
Mountain climber
Durango, CO
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May 28, 2015 - 04:11pm PT
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Damn indeed
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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May 28, 2015 - 05:19pm PT
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Yet another, so tragic to read about this.
My condolences to all of his family and friends.
And a big thank you to YOSAR for all you do.
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elcap-pics
Big Wall climber
Crestline CA
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May 28, 2015 - 05:25pm PT
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I talked to the two guys with the man who died. They said he was going to rappel down to camp 5 from camp 6 to get some gear they dropped. He was tied into the end of the rope and must have thought he had engaged the grigri when he leaned back and fell. He was not attached to the grigri at all and went the length of the rope and hit the upper ledge at camp 5,over 200ft below. The end of the rope was three feet short of the ledge when one of the partners got down to him and the stretch caused the fatal injuries. He was taken off the rope and laid on the ledge. The rope was cut up pretty badly in several places but held. YOSAR able to get the deceased climber and the two partners hauled to the top that evening. The operation was over last night and didn't carry into the morning.
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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May 28, 2015 - 05:41pm PT
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thanks for the update Tom. Super sad, condolences to his friends and family
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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May 28, 2015 - 06:01pm PT
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The "everything happens in threes"?
Very sad. So young. It always breaks my heart.
Susan
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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May 28, 2015 - 06:06pm PT
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I remember being very tired and having to force myself to double/triple check myself when I did the nose. Really sad.
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jstan
climber
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May 28, 2015 - 06:14pm PT
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A few years ago I was prussicking up the trunk of a palm tree to prune off dead fronds. I make
a practice of always leaning back slowly when expecting an anchor to take hold. In this case it
did not take hold because I had come unclipped while fighting with the fronds. It is the
assumptions we don't feel need to be verified that get us. Nearly every time.
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10b4me
Social climber
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May 28, 2015 - 06:17pm PT
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Condolences to the family, and friends.
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MikeL
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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May 28, 2015 - 06:19pm PT
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Geez. I'm so sorry. RIP
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Ward Trotter
Trad climber
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May 28, 2015 - 06:27pm PT
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Condolences to family and friends. So tough to bare ,especially at such a young age.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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May 28, 2015 - 06:39pm PT
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So heartbreaking, hard enough to read let alone to lose a young family member or great friend.....my sincerest condolences.
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Grippa
Trad climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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May 28, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
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Condolences to the family of our brother, and another fallen Monkey.
Always check your own systems, and make sure you yell up or down to your friends to make sure they check theirs too.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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May 28, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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With deep sadness and healing energy sent to all that were close to him.
And another appreciation to YOSAR for your work.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 28, 2015 - 07:17pm PT
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My condolences to friends and family. This is a hard loss to take.
It's high time to give all these convenience devices a hard edit.
Redundancy pays.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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May 28, 2015 - 07:46pm PT
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I'm really sad to hear this news. Condolences to friends and family.
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Lambone
Big Wall climber
Ashland, Or
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May 28, 2015 - 07:52pm PT
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Ah, sh#t.
Check yourselves bros!
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asioux
Trad climber
Rancho Cucamonga
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May 28, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
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I am deeply sadden by this tragedy. I met this young man and his two partners on Sunday as we jugged and hauled our stuff to sickle. The next day (Monday) early morning around 5 am Tyler and I jugged up to sickle together on our separate fixed lines. My condolences to his two partners and his family. My memory of him will remain in my heart....Armando Fimbrez
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 28, 2015 - 09:22pm PT
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Best wishes to those who loved him.
Check yourselves bros!
And check your partners. Every time.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 28, 2015 - 09:52pm PT
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hey there say, SF_Lemur and the family...
my deep condolences and prayers, for the loss of the dear nephew, and climber-friend, of his buddies... :(
very sad...
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Maeday
Trad climber
San Francisco
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May 28, 2015 - 10:43pm PT
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This is so sad. That kid was young.
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splitter
Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
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May 29, 2015 - 05:04am PT
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My memory of him will remain in my heart....Armando Fimbrez PRECIOUS!
edit: AF - i don't believe it was simply by chance that you shared those special moments with him. memories, jagged and painful they can sometimes be. but, your words also contain much warmth and feeling for a kindred spirit who so deeply touched your heart. your sharing this, deeply touches ours. therefore, with us his memory will likewise remain. But for now, in regard to his family and friends, our hearts weep.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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May 29, 2015 - 05:18am PT
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heartfelt condolences to family and friends of a lost tribe member.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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May 29, 2015 - 06:33am PT
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It's hard to read about this :( condolences to the friends and family.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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May 29, 2015 - 07:02am PT
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So very, very sad. I'm so sorry for the grief Tyler's family and friends must be experiencing right now.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 29, 2015 - 07:17am PT
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There but for the grace of God go many of us who've experienced close calls.
It's always tough to say, and getting harder by the day.
Condolences to the family and partners of this young man.
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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May 29, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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So sad to hear one of the clan has gone. To me it doesn't matter if it occurs climbing, by accident, or more natural causes - the person is gone from this world.
Condolences to the family and friends.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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May 29, 2015 - 09:11am PT
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Best thoughts to his loved ones.
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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May 29, 2015 - 09:59am PT
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Wow really sorry to hear. My sympathies with family and friends.
If someone loves you, stay safe out there people. And someone loves you. When you break, the people who love you break too.
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bbbeans
Trad climber
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May 29, 2015 - 11:17am PT
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Very sad. Thoughts go out to his family and friends. 22 is much too young.
"Growing old is a privilege denied to many. "
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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May 29, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
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This is heartbreaking. A "simple" mistake, a moment of inattention, some fatigue. Things that should never happen, but somehow happen too often. Really heartbreaking.
Deepest condolences to his family and friends.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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May 29, 2015 - 03:39pm PT
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I hope the family and friends of this young man are able to find peace and solace after such a terrible loss.
And for his partners on the climb, after an experience like this there are all sorts of places your mind can take you. If you need help get it. Internalizing what happened up there will take a toll on you. I don't know if you guys read this forum, but I had a climbing experience when I needed professional help to get my act together (not something to get into here but pm me if you want. Maybe I can give you some clues what to watch out for.)
Heartfelt condolences to family, friends and partners.
Kristian
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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May 29, 2015 - 09:31pm PT
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... there were five climbers collected near Camp VI. A team of two and a team of three had been climbing alongside each other over the previous days. A member of the team of three was leading midway up the Changing Corners pitch, when the group noticed a piece of gear had landed on a small ledge roughly 25′ below Camp VI. In a quick conversation, one member of the team of three decided to rappel to the gear and retrieve it. The other climbers noticed the climber lean back before falling from the Camp VI ledge. "hindsight is 20/20" but out of the 4 other people involved there, seems a better plan for retrieving something 25 feet below could have been hatched. I guess if you're on the nose, it's expected you have your sh#t together 100% (no need to partner-check knots etc). Sorry to fr-amily and all.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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May 29, 2015 - 10:51pm PT
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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May 30, 2015 - 02:45am PT
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hey there, thank you for sharing this photo of tyler... and the article, so that we can know who he was/is...
such a sad loss of such a wonderful friend... once again, i am so sad for your loss and my prayers for all his dear friends and family and loved ones...
:(
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zBrown
Ice climber
Brujò de la Playa y Perrito Ruby
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May 30, 2015 - 07:13am PT
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Though he started off with mudpies, Gordon also had a penchant for baking elaborate birthday cakes, French pastries, tarts, cinnamon rolls and everything in between. He also loved to ski in the backcountry and was extremely close with family members.
"It overlaps with his personality as a whole," said Eddie Marovich. "Being able to bake and provide something delicious for all of his friends and family. It speaks to his character of wanting to make other people enjoy themselves.
"He was an amazing person to have in your life."
Here's a friendly site which I had never seen before.
http://www.friendsofyosar.org/index.htm
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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May 30, 2015 - 08:04am PT
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"hindsight is 20/20" but out of the 4 other people involved there, seems a better plan for retrieving something 25 feet below could have been hatched.
Nothing wrong with the plan. A mistake was made rigging the rappel -that's all. I can't recall doing a big wall without having to rap down occasionally for one reason or another (pulling the haul bag past a lip, finding a flat spot to bivy, retrieving a dropped clothing item, etc.)
We all have moments of inattention, sometimes that can happen at the wrong time. I have accidentally run two red lights in my life. I did not realize it until I was halfway through the intersection at full speed. I just spaced out for some reason. It was only providence that no one was coming the other way.
Condolences to the friends and family of our fallen brother.
Bob
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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May 30, 2015 - 08:31am PT
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condolences..
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msiddens
Trad climber
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May 30, 2015 - 08:34am PT
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This is so sad, condolences
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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May 30, 2015 - 01:30pm PT
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Prayers and condolences.......my heart breaks.
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Rankin
Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
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May 30, 2015 - 04:55pm PT
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Damn that really sucks. I once failed to clip both plates of the Grigri 2 before belaying my partner. Luckily I caught it early and was able to fix it without incident. Still gives me shutters thinking about it.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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May 30, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
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This is really terrible. I find this kind of thing far more tragic than the higher profile deaths that catch the attention of national media.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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May 30, 2015 - 07:26pm PT
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Peace to Tyler and his family.
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OTC
Social climber
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May 30, 2015 - 08:01pm PT
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Condolence to family and tribe.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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May 31, 2015 - 12:37am PT
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Damn sorry to read this. Condolences to his family and those that knew him.
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yfever
Big Wall climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Jun 18, 2015 - 10:25am PT
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Condolences to family and friends....This was passage was read at a celebration of life ceremony for another fellow climber that passed on....
"Though my soul may set in darkness it will rise in perfect light, I've loved the stars to fondly to be fearful of the night
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John Black
Social climber
Boulder, CO
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Jun 18, 2015 - 10:29am PT
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Met him once near the elevators in the Eng Center at CU... he was clearly a climber, so we chatted about that. Seemed like a really bright personality.
I can remember making all kinds of stupid mistakes with gear both on walls and just cragging... luckily I managed to catch them before they killed me. But it's so easy to miss something, and oftentimes the smallest oversight can spell disaster. Sorry it happened to such a nice young man.
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MAD BOLTER
Trad climber
CARLSBAD,NM
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Jun 18, 2015 - 06:49pm PT
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MOST OF FATALITIES ON THE WALLS HAPPEN DURING RAPPELLS.
I USE 3 ATTACHMENTS TO THE ROPE AS BACKUPS. ONLY ONCE HAVING TO RELY ON THE BACKUP WHEN I FORGOT TO HOOK ON THE RAP-BRAKE SO I RAPPELLED TO WHERE I WAS GOING USING THE BACKUP I HAVE BEEN USING FOR ABOUT 100 MILES.
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big wall paul
Trad climber
tahoe, CA
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Jun 28, 2015 - 08:49pm PT
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I think we need to remind ourselves of the cluster that often happens on big walls -- all those ropes and gear and limited real estate in which to sort it all. I bet that contributed to this tragedy. I had many close calls myself, due to forgetting which rope is the lead rope, which is the haul rope, and which ropes are merely stacked. And you're constantly moving from rope to gear to rope, I remember finding myself unattached to anything quite a few times.
At least this guy was tied to the end of the rope; I hardly ever was.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jun 28, 2015 - 10:50pm PT
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Very sorry to hear about this. Nothing to say about it other than those who need help should seek it, KSolem has some good words.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jun 29, 2015 - 10:08am PT
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Double and triple check every system every time.
That's what our boy is yelling down at us from the clouds. Sorry you had to go so early, even if the view is good - but not from here.
Condolences to all his friends and family.
JL
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Gunkie
climber
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Jun 29, 2015 - 01:07pm PT
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I remember getting the total cluster/fatigue thing going full steam when trying to lower off Dolt to the follow the wide-ish 5.9 pitch to the right and above. I remember yelling JUST STOP in my head and tie in really short, just in case. Well, I had a F-up in my lower out and would have had the end of the rope slide through my hand and I would have slammed into the far corner, even with the short tie-off.
It could have been me, too.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jun 29, 2015 - 02:51pm PT
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I'm fairly certain a climber capable of reaching Camp V on the Nose could offer all the same platitudes on rock climbing safety.
The problem here, IMO, in most of these situations, is simply one of humans making mistakes. Sure - develop those good habits, tie the right knots, pay attention, blah, blah, blah - but your safety is not thus assured. I think the ones quickest to believe otherwise are themselves the most dangerous.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Jun 29, 2015 - 03:15pm PT
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In sailing, the end of the anchor line is called "The Bitter End." If it gets loose, off you drift onto rocky shore.
I wish climbers would start calling it that. We are always hearing about somebody getting lowered as the end of the rope passes through the gri gri, and down they go.
Man, I always tied into A rope. Pull up twenty feet and tie in on a bight. Such a simple thing. Still it is one of the main ways to get hurt, even when sport climbing.
That said, most of us have made a mistake, but with less severe consequences. Condolences to friends and family.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Jun 29, 2015 - 07:27pm PT
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I think the ones quickest to believe otherwise are themselves the most dangerous.
+10,000
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Dick Danger
Trad climber
Lakewood, Colorado
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Jun 30, 2015 - 12:56pm PT
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Very sad news. RIP Tyler. Condolences to friends and family.
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yedi
Trad climber
Stanwood,wa
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Jun 30, 2015 - 03:00pm PT
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Having lost our 24 year old last September, I am acutely aware just how much this affects family and close relationships. Many hugs and sincere condolences, especially to Tyler's parents.
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