fa on south face of Broderick

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BrandonAdams

Big Wall climber

Oakhurst, CA

Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2015 - 11:07am PT

Yep we pushed to gangstas paradise in early April but dropped the wrench for our bolt kit. Doh! We rapped and came back to finish it in May.

limpingcrab

Trad climber

the middle of CA

May 16, 2015 - 12:37pm PT

You should buy the BD nut tool with the built in wrench holes. It's come in handy once when I dropped the wrench and another time when the nuts on some bolts were a different size.

Gunkie

climber

May 16, 2015 - 02:25pm PT

That's awesome! I can kind of remember the days where I had virtually no responsibilities except for a job. I could score long weekends with a little schedule fudging and be in NH or the Daks or the Gunks or the New or Seneca and just climb, climb, climb. Bivy in the truck or bivy on a ledge; it didn't matter.

Keep rocking and keep posting. Well done!

BrandonAdams

Big Wall climber

Yosemite, CA

Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2015 - 05:09pm PT

For sure. I scored an NPS gig in the park this season. Should be a rad year, many adventures to come.

Gotta say, the main thing I've learned from being up at Broderick is that, despite common belief, Yosemite is definitely not climbed out. People should stray more from just the classics. High adventure hides around every corner, and even in a place with so many people pouring through (climbers included of course) there's always a place of seclusion. There seems to be tons of stellar climbing hiding in plain view.

And yes, a nut tool with a built in wrench is a great idea. Totally looking into that one.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

May 16, 2015 - 05:27pm PT

Nicely done....looks good!

Clint Cummins

Trad climber

SF Bay area, CA

May 16, 2015 - 07:39pm PT

It's helpful to have a keeper sling on the wrench and keep it clipped when out of the bolt bag, or put your hand through the sling when using it.
The cutout on a large stopper may fit some hex nuts/bolts.

Hex and rectangular cutouts on a nut tool might not give you more than 1/12 of a turn, since the hanger gets in the way.

Rectangular cutouts do not work very well.
I just tried it on the below Metolius - for 3/8" wedge stud, only the wiregate part fits, so you can't get it very tight.
For 3/8" Powerbolt hex head bolt, cannot turn even 1/12.

The Metolius looks like it gives you a better chance, though I have not tested it. (I only use booty nut tools!)

BrandonAdams

Big Wall climber

Yosemite, CA

Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2015 - 10:38pm PT

Actually what happened is the leash on the wrench snapped as I tagged up the bolt kit at the end of the pitch. Serves me right for trying to pull the tag over a lip while using mank as a leash. Oh well.