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| Messages 1 - 30 of total 30 in this topic |
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 14, 2015 - 09:59pm PT
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Looks nice, congrats!! Friend and I did the Unemployment Line a month or so ago, and the location of that route is great. So is the climbing. Hope yours is just as good, may try it in the fall!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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May 14, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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Any opinion of how hard this would go free?
Looks pretty sweet, nice job getting to where no human has ever been!
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 14, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
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Way to go bro . . . seeking the path, the multitudinous paths. Sweet granite!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 15, 2015 - 01:37am PT
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Brandon,
I see the topo, but I'm not sure how it matches up with the photos,
since they don't have any lines overlaid to show where the route goes.
Where does your climb go, relative to the original 1960 South Face route?
Did you see any signs of it, like pin scars?
It looks like the start is about the same, then the 1960 route goes up the huge corner in the headwall.
Does your route go up the wall right of that corner?
(The big corner is not shown on your topo, as far as I can tell).
Here's a slightly better photo, which might be useful for drawing your route on:
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2015 - 06:14am PT
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Hey Clint, the route starts direct in the valley between Broderick and liberty cap and then climbs right of the old south face route on the headwall. I'll try to figure out how to draw lines on a photo... The voodoo child variation we did climbs the headwall left of the old route.
While digging a bivy in the big ledge halfway we found an old rusty piton in dirt! Must've dropped from party on old route. Only sign we saw.
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2015 - 06:18am PT
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Roughly the route goes at the shadow line up to the ledge system in the lower part of your bottom photo, and then up to and around the roof system in the middle of the wall right of the old route, with a cool shadow on it... Copy?
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2015 - 06:21am PT
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2015 - 06:22am PT
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2015 - 06:24am PT
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2015 - 06:28am PT
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Most of route would go classic free. A few thin aid sections would be rough, but who am I to say. Would be cool to get a crusher up there to try.
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2015 - 06:58am PT
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 15, 2015 - 07:12am PT
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There are seekers, congrats!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 15, 2015 - 09:07am PT
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If you went up that middle section, would it be a big OW/chimney? As I understand that's the s face route?
Nice looking line, thanks for drawing it up and clarification.
Per Clint's photo seems like you start right of South face, than join it in the middle and split off right or left via different variation?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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May 15, 2015 - 09:40am PT
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Nice line.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 15, 2015 - 01:28pm PT
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Thanks for the overlay photo, Brandon - very clear now.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 15, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
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Neat area. Thanks for the report.
Has anyone climbed the old South Face route recently? I'd be curious to know a contemporary estimation of it.
John
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 15, 2015 - 02:29pm PT
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Yep south face follows a pretty full value chimney system though headwall. Pretty sweet and old school. Didn't look like anyone had been up there for a while but who knows? I believe every pitch we did is new... We cleaned out a bunch and followed thin cracks on the face where the routes might overlap. Awesome area.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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May 16, 2015 - 10:20am PT
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Oh nice! We saw your lines on the first three back in early April and wondered. 10 pitches - sweet!
Can just barely see your fixed line in this one. Those first three look killer.
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2015 - 11:07am PT
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Yep we pushed to gangstas paradise in early April but dropped the wrench for our bolt kit. Doh! We rapped and came back to finish it in May.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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May 16, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
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You should buy the BD nut tool with the built in wrench holes. It's come in handy once when I dropped the wrench and another time when the nuts on some bolts were a different size.
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Gunkie
climber
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May 16, 2015 - 02:25pm PT
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That's awesome! I can kind of remember the days where I had virtually no responsibilities except for a job. I could score long weekends with a little schedule fudging and be in NH or the Daks or the Gunks or the New or Seneca and just climb, climb, climb. Bivy in the truck or bivy on a ledge; it didn't matter.
Keep rocking and keep posting. Well done!
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
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For sure. I scored an NPS gig in the park this season. Should be a rad year, many adventures to come.
Gotta say, the main thing I've learned from being up at Broderick is that, despite common belief, Yosemite is definitely not climbed out. People should stray more from just the classics. High adventure hides around every corner, and even in a place with so many people pouring through (climbers included of course) there's always a place of seclusion. There seems to be tons of stellar climbing hiding in plain view.
And yes, a nut tool with a built in wrench is a great idea. Totally looking into that one.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 16, 2015 - 05:27pm PT
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Nicely done....looks good!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 16, 2015 - 07:39pm PT
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It's helpful to have a keeper sling on the wrench and keep it clipped when out of the bolt bag, or put your hand through the sling when using it.
The cutout on a large stopper may fit some hex nuts/bolts.
Hex and rectangular cutouts on a nut tool might not give you more than 1/12 of a turn, since the hanger gets in the way.
Rectangular cutouts do not work very well.
I just tried it on the below Metolius - for 3/8" wedge stud, only the wiregate part fits, so you can't get it very tight.
For 3/8" Powerbolt hex head bolt, cannot turn even 1/12.
The Metolius looks like it gives you a better chance, though I have not tested it. (I only use booty nut tools!)
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BrandonAdams
Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2015 - 10:38pm PT
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Actually what happened is the leash on the wrench snapped as I tagged up the bolt kit at the end of the pitch. Serves me right for trying to pull the tag over a lip while using mank as a leash. Oh well.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 16, 2015 - 10:41pm PT
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The leash should be inside the bolt bag, I'd say.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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May 17, 2015 - 09:37am PT
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Nice work Brandon. When we were on Liberty Cap I spent a lot of time looking at that wall. Way to get after it.
lars
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 17, 2015 - 09:42am PT
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People should stray more from just the classics. High adventure hides around every corner, and even in a place with so many people pouring through
Shhhhhh.
Repeat routes. Repeat routes. Repeat routes. Repeat after me. Repeat...
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| Messages 1 - 30 of total 30 in this topic |
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