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Byran
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 13, 2015 - 04:50pm PT
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So, more to the point - this Coz guy. When he did this, was he a 5.13 climber who is totally comfortable on 5.11 terrain? Or was this someone who was just comfortable about pushing his limits and going big on the fall? Or both?
Looking through the FA index, it looks like in the mid 80's he did the first ascent of Roadside Attraction (5.12a) as a free solo and also put up Machine Gun (5.13c) at Little Wing. So yeah, probably pretty solid on 5.11.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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May 13, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
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unprotected kitty litter lead
The best of times are kitty litter, lichen encrusted leads. They smell great!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 13, 2015 - 05:00pm PT
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The FA/FFA of Return to the Stone Age by Scott Cosgrove and Ed Barry was in 1985.
It's one of the earliest of Scott's Yosemite FAs,
but both these guys had already done their early ascents (#3, #5) of the Bachar-Yerian in 1984 and 1985.
There weren't too many 5.13s in 1985, but he did 5.13 FAs in Yosemite in 1988 and the early 1990s.
I believe the route did coincide with an old aid route in places,
but often routes are freed by variations away from the original aid line.
2578. Bridalveil Falls - East Buttress 5.8 A3, 6p, FA: Royal Robbins, TM Herbert, 1963
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 14, 2015 - 10:36pm PT
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YES. HE WAS VERY COMFORTABLE AT 5.11 cordless,
I have to try and get the far off shot of Coz sending Left Ski track solo in '82,
It s a slide that I need to scan. . .
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 28, 2016 - 11:08am PT
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Nice to see Darryl on the list...
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