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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:57am PT
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We used to just "climb" a route. Now everything is a "proud send."
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:24pm PT
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20 years ago, or more, if a climber said they climbed a particular route, they meant that they had led that route, not followed, or top-roped the route.
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Feb 26, 2015 - 03:36pm PT
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There's another "point": the teaching concept of "three point contact", i.e. at least 3 of your 4 extremities on the rock at all times, for a secure stance. I think this originates with Robert Underhill pre-WWII, and is typically conservative
That may be. The US Army made that rule number one for rock climbing during WWII. It was still almost universally practiced when I started doing dynamics on boulders in the mid 1950s.
"the leader never falls"
Probably first stated in print by Geoffrey Winthrop Young in one of his mountaineering books in the late 1800s or first half of the twentieth century.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Feb 26, 2015 - 05:15pm PT
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20 years ago, or more, if a climber said they climbed a particular route, they meant that they had led that route, not followed, or top-roped the route.
Still the only valid standard. Of course that means I probably have a few less routes checked off in my guidebooks than others but so be it. Ain't nothing archaic about that.
One caveat, if a team does a longer route, Astroman for example, swinging leads and no one falls or hangs leading or following it's a done deal.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Feb 26, 2015 - 10:50pm PT
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Swami Belt
Hip belay
Dulfersitz
Lederhosen
Stitch Plate
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 26, 2015 - 11:40pm PT
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Whatever happened with those little leather balls people used to kick around? I could never really wrap my head around that.
Neutron devices were readily employed.
Or the rather banal "sodium". Atomic symbol Na for callipygian proportions.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Feb 27, 2015 - 01:15pm PT
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where have all the goners gone?
not to be confused with "real gone cats," a real goner was more
than less self forsaken and often went where he had to go.
upon arrival hearalding ensued and following followed
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 27, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
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long time passing?
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