Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 68 of total 68 in this topic |
John Morton
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2015 - 07:56am PT
|
Why is it "dyno"? And what happened to "lunge", which was despised as a shameful act of desperation?
Do climbers lunge any more, or do they just dyno?
|
|
kaholatingtong
Trad climber
therealmccoy from Nevada City
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 07:57am PT
|
Oh f*#k that. I don't dyno or lunge. I just make "dynamic" or "big" moves, and only when fully necessary.
|
|
Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 08:06am PT
|
'Cause us idiot "real" climbers have allowed those damn sport climbers to dictate terminology.
I say we should rise up and revolt.
REVOLUTION IS IN THE AIR!
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado, Nepal & Okinawa
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 08:10am PT
|
Curmudgeons rule !
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 08:22am PT
|
And "huck"
Anyone ever use the phrase " next generation"? It's a verb, as in "Dyno, match and next generation on the knob!" - heard from the mouth of a preteen in queen creek '97
Also in the dept of dissused vernacular, "fire a 'Mo"
 I first heard it from Jim Beyr in camp 4 in '79.
|
|
mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 08:53am PT
|
Sierra Ledge Rat is revolting.
|
|
Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 09:06am PT
|
Gaston Rebufatt.
A guy who couldn't crack climb straight in so he tried to pry the edges of the crack apart.
|
|
Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 09:24am PT
|
Oh man that's jingus.
|
|
Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 09:39am PT
|
I remember being told to surf right and up to a knob in the Meadows....
To me it meant to flow a series of static moves whilst me feet and hands moved simultaneously, never stopping to keep the pump factor from creeping up to fast.
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 09:40am PT
|
so when did OVERHANG become INVERT?????
I climb with the youth, they are leaving all the old terms behind....
get with the times.
|
|
Psilocyborg
climber
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 09:58am PT
|
A rose by any other name would smell just as sweet. Its fun to come up with new terms for things you old fuddy duddy.
|
|
Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 10:06am PT
|
"supertopo"
|
|
Ward Trotter
Trad climber
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 10:09am PT
|
Does anyone remember the term "hairball" or was that just occasionally used by my particular set of deranged partners?
"Hairball" was often used to characterize something "dicey" but usually more than just ordinary dicey. I think.
Another one was "massive whippage" or "Major whippage" as in "massive whippage involved"
Sometimes the phrase "a real slog" was used to denote a lot of "bush whacking " .
Two terms one doesn't often hear recently are "prang" and "mank" which I believe originated in the UK, used to denote fatal ground falls and marginal gear,respectively.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 11:01am PT
|
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Dammit have an important meeting this afternoon, tomorrow will have to be my sick/ski day.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 11:17am PT
|
I know I'm being partly serious in a remarkably light-hearted thread, but the etymology of "dyno" begins, at the latest, in John Gill's article on bouldering in Summit in the late 1960's. There he described the "lunge" or its more graceful variant, the "swinging lieback." He went on to describe his rating system, where B2 required use of "controlled dynamic technique."
Now what I'd like to know is the origin of all the "points." The only one I completely understand is the one with which I'm most familiar -- the "yellow point," i.e. chickening out without leaving the ground, caused by looking at the intended climb up close.
John
|
|
scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 12:00pm PT
|
ThatsCool
climber
Way Out
Feb 24, 2015 - 08:59am PT
Always wondered where "gaston" came from, that's a weird one
Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
Feb 24, 2015 - 09:06am PT
Gaston Rebufatt.
A guy who couldn't crack climb straight in so he tried to pry the edges of the crack apart.
It's entirely based on one photograph in a book. Wide crack, sub vertical rock, footholds and mountain boots. No doubt he could climb cracks at least half decently.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 12:33pm PT
|
Thank you Tami. The meanings are now all clear, even if I still don't know the word origins. I do recall doing a few unintentionally pointy-point leads, though. One off-width I did early on, in particular, had a fir tree at its base that had a remarkable resemblance to a shish kebab skewer.
If I red point the first five feet, grey point the next five feet, then yellow point, have I accomplished a hat trick?
John
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 12:38pm PT
|
Lunge, dyno or dynamic moves are best described (personally at least) by percentages. E.g. for me it's a 50% move.
|
|
StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 12:40pm PT
|
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/big-moe/105722572
I have "bicycled" on the Apron because it was almost impossible to stand in one place on some of that damn polish in EB's. Once, while caught in a thunderstorm, I bicycled and hucked a big mo for the chains to keep from taking a screamer.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
|
Dynamic move-Dyno-'mo-powerglide-dead point-?
|
|
two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 01:31pm PT
|
A dyno is a full on, all 4 points off, type of move. A lunge is a dynamic move of 1, 2, or 3 points of movement. This is how we use the term around this locality. I don't remember it having any origin in sport climbing. It came out of bouldering. Am I wrong about this?
We still use the that term "hairball" around here. I think that came from "You must have more hair on your balls than I do!" Then it progressed to: "That was way hairball!", "That's a way hairballed move!"
etc.
Anybody ever use the term Ano-bano? That might be what you would call yourself, or another, if they were taking too long to rack up, and systematically getting everything perfect for a good lead. In other words, being a little anal-retentive.
A friend of mine still likes to use the term: Moty. As in: I still haven't got my moty working! It's short for motivation.
|
|
john bald
climber
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 01:37pm PT
|
I used to "crush" beer cans.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 02:14pm PT
|
Tami, did you know that Yellow Point is named for the point beyond which
you're sure to die if you keep driving north amongst those crazies up there?
Look it up.
|
|
lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 02:20pm PT
|
"ball"= what I used to do with girls back in the 60's.
lars
|
|
the czar
climber
meyers, ca.
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 02:35pm PT
|
a green point is when you repeat a climb youve done but cant remember cuz you were sooo high that its new again. i think, smoke up kids!
|
|
Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 02:38pm PT
|
I still can't figure out how "send" came to replace a simple "do".
|
|
Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 02:46pm PT
|
I have "bicycled" on the Apron because it was almost impossible to stand in one place on some of that damn polish in EB's. Once, while caught in a thunderstorm, I bicycled and hucked a big mo for the chains to keep from taking a screamer.
Yeah, buddy!!
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 02:54pm PT
|
Do folks still get sewing machine legs?
|
|
Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 03:00pm PT
|
^^^ I do.
|
|
Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 03:11pm PT
|
Gastoning
The internet is a funny place. A search produced this from a photobucket account of one "scgrossman", whom I suspect we all know.
|
|
StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 03:38pm PT
|
I heard someone call it "Elvis Leg" just the other day.
Thankya vera much.
|
|
Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
|
Beta. I barely remember Betamax, but the term lives on. Why not update the term to getting a GoPro download, or YouTubing the moves?
|
|
Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
|
"Aren't you Bob Murray, the lunger?"
"I prefer to think of myself as a 'swinger'."
Can't believe I beat Randisi to it!
|
|
throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 04:46pm PT
|
Cup of tea for every knee
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 04:59pm PT
|
Lifting yer leg up to put yer foot on a hold outside of a crack is 'gastoning'?
I thought it was just climbing. Silly me.
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 05:18pm PT
|
What the Sam Hill are you fellas talking about?
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
|
dyno, lunge, huck, fly, throw, toss, leap, same thing
now that im pushing 60, i prefer fatpoint ascents. in fact typical beta for how i now climb goes something like this:
"wallow the crack to the knee rest, then tard across to the all points off down-dyno, then simultaneous two handed rope pull/bicycle moves followed by a belly friction roll-over onto the ledge. moderate grunt/wheeze/shake until you can grab a handful of weeds. immediately lower to beers."
im not getting older, im getting better
|
|
two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 06:08pm PT
|
At one time quite a few climbers around here used to use the word "spooge". As in, "Hey, do you have a little extra chalk that I could spooge?"
|
|
throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 06:14pm PT
|
"Are you gonna eat that?"
|
|
MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 06:31pm PT
|
One I use with my wife when the occasion calls for it:
"Methinks the lady doth protest too much!"
|
|
coolrockclimberguy69
climber
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 07:45pm PT
|
How much weed is in a "lid"? quarter ounce?
and when did that unit of measurement vanish from the vernacular?
|
|
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 07:52pm PT
|
How much weed is in a "lid"? quarter ounce?
A bit more methinks. It also depends if it's a three or four finger lid.
Haven't heard lid in that regard in a very long time.
|
|
Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 07:59pm PT
|
Isn't a 4 finger lid a 1/2 oz?
|
|
throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 08:26pm PT
|
I don't know how much weed was I a lid, but I knew one when I saw one.
|
|
throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 08:30pm PT
|
When Colombian showed up is when we started weighing it up. It was always about 1/4 pounds and 1/4 ounces. Pounds were called elbows.
|
|
throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 08:47pm PT
|
I recall a brick with an old tennis shoe and two spark plugs imbedded within for extra weight.
|
|
Lanthade
climber
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 11:44pm PT
|
I've always been fond of the Conn's retable.
|
|
Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2015 - 11:47pm PT
|
Ranger danger to the maxloads.
|
|
healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2015 - 12:07am PT
|
Gill: "swinging lieback."
Recipe for endless fun on overhanging SE sandstone - my idea of mo' monkey. The only thing better is any swinging which results in climbing with your feet higher than your head. God I love that...
|
|
rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2015 - 05:56am PT
|
From Steve Grossman in the thread http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=522822&tn=20 , the shot of Gaston (on the right) the gave rise to the nomenclature. Leavittation had not yet been invented, but wide stiff mountain boots made up for that.
Some tiltage seems to have been applied to the photos, especially to the left-hand shot.
I agree that it was Gill who heaped enough scorn on the lunge to create the fertile conditions for a more elegant replacement. Of course, the adjustment in linguistics could not, and has not, brought elegance to the activity itself, and on any given day one can see climbers lunging with all the ungainliness of their predecessors.
From Wikipedia, that unimpeachable source of all things known, comes the following description:
"The English term "redpoint" is derived from the German Rotpunkt (point of red) coined by Kurt Albert in the mid-1970s at Frankenjura. He would paint a red X on a fixed pin that he could avoid using for a foot- or handhold. Once he was able to free-climb the entire route, he would put a red dot at the base of the route. In many ways, this was the origin of the free climbing movement that led to the development of sport climbing ten years later."
|
|
pb
Sport climber
Sonora Ca
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2015 - 06:22am PT
|
shralping is to climbing as shredding is to sking
Hi Craig
|
|
WyoRockMan
climber
Flank of the Big Horns
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2015 - 07:59am PT
|
The sooner "gnar" becomes archaic the sooner the world becomes a better place.
|
|
Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2015 - 08:26am PT
|
Hey PB! Doesn't that apply to your old E99's as opposed to your current 5.10's? I could be wrong? Happy days to you!!
|
|
gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2015 - 04:24pm PT
|
in early 70's san diego a lid was as much as you could cram into a baggie and still fold the top over. It was always $10. A good key made about 30 lids, and some of those keys were so compacted you had to tear them apart.
We used to have breaking parties where 3 or 4 of us would fill baggies and get high. Tons of seeds and sticks went into the bags but we left the really big stuff out. Had to smoke lots of joints to get high. We never weighed lids, and no weight was expected. You paid $10 and got a bag of weed. In the mid 70's "gold" came out for $15 a lid, and the lids were smaller. I never saw a weight other than kilo until sin semillion came out around 1980, and that sold by the gram. Hash oil was always around, and you could buy an oiler (hash oil soaked joint) for $5 that would obliterate 2 people. It was a different world back then. We could have never imagined the hydroponic killer strains we have today. These kids really know their weed.
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2015 - 05:59pm PT
|
Now what I'd like to know is the origin of all the "points." redpoint = "rotpunkt" originated in the Frankenjura (Germany).
When climbs were done that had been led free in yoyo style,
a red circle "rotkreis" was painted (with nail polish) next to the climb name at the base of the wall.
It denoted a free ascent which was not in the highest style.
Then if someone was able to lead a rotkreis climb free, placing all non-fixed gear during the lead, they were expected to paint in the center of the red circle.
Thus adding the red point to the circle.
Or if the route was FFAed that way without yoyo, the filled circle was used.
I've seen a photo of John Bachar with paintbrush, doing it for "Ensafter", I think.
http://www.frankenjura.com/klettern/poi/9024
He had a somewhat disapproving expression his face -
I don't think he liked the idea of painting the rock. :-)
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/kurt-albert-the-climber-who-invented-redpointing
http://thestonemind.com/2012/07/24/the-rotpunkt-method/
http://thrillseekersanonymous.com/demo/meeting-redpoints-birthplace/
Later, "pinkpoint" was invented for leads with *all* gear (draws, cams, etc.) was left in place (or fixed, or preplaced that day),
but the rope is not left up through the high point like a yoyo.
Later still, people changed the definition of "redpoint" to really mean "pinkpoint",
probably because of the popular crags which were very steep and/or had fixed quickdraws.
So it would be quite a hassle to clean the draws between strict redpoint attempts.
When this change of definition occurred, many people found they could suddenly "redpoint" a couple of letter grades harder than before. :-)
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2015 - 10:11pm PT
|
Piano (verb) ... gradually replacing one hand with the other, a finger at a time.
|
|
John Morton
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2015 - 10:54am PT
|
There's another "point": the teaching concept of "three point contact", i.e. at least 3 of your 4 extremities on the rock at all times, for a secure stance. I think this originates with Robert Underhill pre-WWII, and is typically conservative. Interesting to think that one should need to teach something so obvious.
Underhill would have been aghast at a lunge, which is zero point contact. He would also been aghast at Supertopo, where some might ask whether a climber (a man, at any rate) has 5 extremities, and whether any 3 would qualify.
|
|
throwpie
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 11:56am PT
|
"the leader never falls"
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 11:57am PT
|
We used to just "climb" a route. Now everything is a "proud send."
|
|
two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 03:24pm PT
|
20 years ago, or more, if a climber said they climbed a particular route, they meant that they had led that route, not followed, or top-roped the route.
|
|
jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 03:36pm PT
|
There's another "point": the teaching concept of "three point contact", i.e. at least 3 of your 4 extremities on the rock at all times, for a secure stance. I think this originates with Robert Underhill pre-WWII, and is typically conservative
That may be. The US Army made that rule number one for rock climbing during WWII. It was still almost universally practiced when I started doing dynamics on boulders in the mid 1950s.
"the leader never falls"
Probably first stated in print by Geoffrey Winthrop Young in one of his mountaineering books in the late 1800s or first half of the twentieth century.
|
|
Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 05:15pm PT
|
20 years ago, or more, if a climber said they climbed a particular route, they meant that they had led that route, not followed, or top-roped the route.
Still the only valid standard. Of course that means I probably have a few less routes checked off in my guidebooks than others but so be it. Ain't nothing archaic about that.
One caveat, if a team does a longer route, Astroman for example, swinging leads and no one falls or hangs leading or following it's a done deal.
|
|
Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 10:50pm PT
|
Swami Belt
Hip belay
Dulfersitz
Lederhosen
Stitch Plate
|
|
Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2015 - 11:40pm PT
|
Whatever happened with those little leather balls people used to kick around? I could never really wrap my head around that.
Neutron devices were readily employed.
Or the rather banal "sodium". Atomic symbol Na for callipygian proportions.
|
|
hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2015 - 01:15pm PT
|
where have all the goners gone?
not to be confused with "real gone cats," a real goner was more
than less self forsaken and often went where he had to go.
upon arrival hearalding ensued and following followed
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Feb 27, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
|
long time passing?
|
|
| Messages 1 - 68 of total 68 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!