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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Oct 29, 2018 - 05:39pm PT
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awesome! face down is more like 12c than 12a imo... so hard! what about north face routes? i know freaky deaky fell down (or is that right?) but there aren't any others?
if broken heels = seki climbing content, then ok by me
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 29, 2018 - 10:03pm PT
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The real reason those guys broke you!!!! ;)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2018 - 10:48am PT
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Haha! Well it worked, Munge.
Thanks Brian, I changed the grade and made the gear suggestion a bit more specific. I found one other person who climbed it and also though it was a sandbag.
When that rock fell on the northeast face it took "Freaky Deaky" and "Now You See 'Em, Now You Don't" down with it. I only know of one other route from the old SEKI guidebook and it's listed as an unknown one pitch climb so I just didn't include that side of the spire.
I have found at least two anchors and one piece of bail gear high up on the wall by searching through a spotting scope and my pictures. I asked around at Montecito and haven't found anyone who knows about those possible routes.
Go climb them and find out! I would go TR solo that face and find out, but, you know, the approach isn't wheelchair accessible.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 30, 2018 - 04:30pm PT
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We know you are good on your knees ;) ;)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2018 - 05:50pm PT
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Well, I do have scabs on my knees.
Chimney Rock is now up and running. Lots of things I need to double check but I'll have to wait until next season, unless you nice folks want to go test it and let me know. There's a previously unpublished route on Chimney Rock and on Chimney Spire included. And probably some wrong info so it'll be a surprise.
http://www.sekiclimbing.com/chimney-rock.html
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2018 - 05:07pm PT
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Bump for Brandon Thau putting up a new route with his son and Neal Harder, so that's been added now. It's called 1000 Piece Meal Deal because there are so many chicken nuggets, I mean heads. I love those domes.
http://www.sekiclimbing.com/tokopah-domes.html
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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with his son too, how cool. I wonder if that roof also has a 'reality' type route on it. I never made it that far over there to look.. didn't vitaliy do a new route on santa cruz? where's that go?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2018 - 05:01pm PT
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Dang it! I forgot about Vitaliy's new route so I'll have to edit again.
I don't remember any cracks through that roof on the far right, just the giant holes.
Speaking of new routes, I was missing a bunch that were just done on Chimney Rock this fall. Here they are for the hardmen and women out there.
http://www.sekiclimbing.com/chimney-rock.html
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Something funny about the 3 new 5.12 routes on Chimney Rock NW face....No bolts?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2018 - 10:24am PT
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Probably bolts, just received overlays and gear info.. Once I get more beta I can make topos with bolt counts.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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what's funny? and what do you mean by asking 'no bolts?' they look effing awesome to me!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2018 - 12:36pm PT
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Just got the bolt counts and more accurate descriptions so I’ll add the extra info in the next couple days
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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How ya healin'? Hope you're not getting cabin fever.
Tokapah Domes have always called out to me and I've never answered that call. Maybe in the next couple of years. Looks like there's still room out there.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2018 - 09:25pm PT
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Ha! I got cabin fever after about two hours. I don't remember the last time I went two weeks without going to the mountains so I rolled my wheelchair around Grant's Grove in SEKI this weekend, that helped.
Tokopah Domes are great, I love it up there. It's day-trip-able from the parking lot if you're agressive, but I'd recommend hanging out up there for a few days.
PS: updated a little mistake on the west face descent routes. Not much else this week, took a little break to watch birds in my yard :/ Also bought knee pads so I can crawl to the river to fish :)
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Nov 15, 2018 - 07:28am PT
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Did I ever send you the 3rd pitch variation for Timex that Roger Hayashi and I did in 1996? Wasn't sure if it was worth noting on the topo for The Watchtower. We ended up calling it the 'Casio Traverse'.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2018 - 09:40pm PT
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Huh? No I don't think I know about that but I'd like to! (sorry, slow reply, I got my wheelchair up to a cabin so I could at least look at mountains)
Also fixed an error on North Sentinel and added a short route to Buena Vista Peak on http://www.sekiclimbing.com/
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Paul W
Trad climber
Three Rivers, CA
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Nov 27, 2018 - 10:12am PT
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Thanks for all of the free content. I did Snowboots with Chad on Sunday, and it was nice to have a topo with us. It was a very fun route that made for a nice day trip. The last pitch and a half were quite wet and cold, which added to the adventure.
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Paul W
Trad climber
Three Rivers, CA
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mooch
Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
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Sent you the variation for The Watchtower.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2018 - 02:17pm PT
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That’s awesome, Paul! I’ve never heard of anyone else climbing it. Doesn’t mean nobody does, of course, but it’s cool to see that scenic route get some love. I hope the Topo and beta weren’t terrible. I also hope you found a better descent route than I did.
Thanks mooch, I’ll update that soon.
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