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Paul W
Trad climber
Three Rivers, CA
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We found chalk and a couple of pieces of bail gear, so somebody’s been up there. Great rock and views on that route! If it was roadside in Yosemite, it would be at least a 3 star climb. The last pitch was pretty wet and icy, which made it interesting. I’m dying to go back and climb Adrift. Also can’t wait to get up to the Tokopah Domes. So much to do around here!
The descent took us an hour and a half to get back to where we stashed our packs, with just a tiny bit of manzanita thrashing.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2018 - 02:50pm PT
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Cool, if you climb Adrift and are in the mood to sketch a topo or record some beta I'd love the details on that climb since I haven't climbed it yet. If not, no worries, then at least I'll have an excuse to climb it.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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dang that snow boots actually looks awesome
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grubs
climber
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Dec 12, 2018 - 10:19am PT
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A note on Tokopah Domes if you haven't been... if you go, climb Tokopah Reality- it's great. And the holes left of Thousand Piece Meal Deal sadly don't go anywhere, just dark pockets, and they don't even connect to each other.
Daniel- thanks for all the info. Hope you heal up fast and can get back to that limestone monstrosity. B and I were really hoping you guys would put something good up over there so we could go do it without all the hard work ;)
-Neal
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2019 - 03:24pm PT
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Thanks Neal! I'm walking again now, albeit slowly. Three months ago today so my bones should be full strength, now I just have to keep up with the PT to strengthen everything else.
New addition:
Squirrel Creek, a small crag near Danland has been added to the site. Both of those locations are prefect for winter for anyone looking for southern Sierra/SEKI options. Squirrel Creek is like 90 seconds from the road and almost everything can be top-roped. Also, nobody has seen a squirrel there yet, last I checked.
http://www.sekiclimbing.com/danland.html
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Jeff G
Trad climber
Fort Collins
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Jan 21, 2019 - 04:43pm PT
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Great info! Thanks for the topos!
What would be a good time of year to try Modern Guilt on Moro Rock?
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jan 21, 2019 - 05:03pm PT
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Wishing you a speedy, and thorough, recovery!!!
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2019 - 06:25pm PT
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What would be a good time of year to try Modern Guilt on Moro Rock? Spring or Fall, it can get pretty warm on the west face of Moro mid-summer. If you're just working on it or climb quickly then it's great any time before noon in the summer since mornings above 6,000 feet are nice, but once the sun hits the light colored granite on that part of the rock it can heat up. It's not unbearable, I've climbed a lot of the moderates on the south and west faces during the summer, but for MG some cool temps and high friction would be helpful.
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Jeff G
Trad climber
Fort Collins
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Jan 22, 2019 - 06:11am PT
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Thanks! Modern Guilt looks really amazing!!
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Jan 22, 2019 - 06:23am PT
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Hey Daniel, he explicitly states in the squirrel creek guide that you shouldn’t walk around on top of the cliff, I.e. to setup a tr. your comment that all routes are toprope-able makes it sound like you can walk to the top to do so... just doin my part with nothin but bad weather and time down here :) .
As far as MG. I’ve played on it in the winter many times. Though it sounds like maybe not this winter? Anyway since you’re from out of state and will likely come to ca in the spring or fall, just hit it then. Perfect stop on the way to the needles from the valley for instance. Or just spend all time in SEKI :) . Daniel is spot on with his summer time beta. Key point being it faces west and some days once in the sun could be fine with a breeze . Additionally, you can likely be past the cruxes once the sun hits...
For granite face climbing, the route is all time..
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jan 22, 2019 - 11:45am PT
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Not this year, but Moro has looked similar several times this year already. We've got a lot of snow Thankfully! Shows the some of the West Face Routes including 'Modern Guilt'.
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spectreman
Trad climber
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Jan 24, 2019 - 07:48pm PT
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Is it possible to hike out from the West Face of Moro or do you have to climb out? If, for example, I were to rap Modern Guilt on a recon mission and TR solo the pitches on my way down, could I then hike back out?
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Jan 25, 2019 - 08:22am PT
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I’ve done that exact thing a couple times. The gulley to the left goes ok. It’s doable but it’s not super fun. Best to just show up with a 1000 ft of rope :)
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2019 - 03:14pm PT
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Hey Daniel, he explicitly states in the squirrel creek guide that you shouldn’t walk around on top of the cliff, I.e. to setup a tr. your comment that all routes are toprope-able makes it sound like you can walk to the top to do so... just doin my part with nothin but bad weather and time down here :) . Mind your own business, don't be a weather sissy and get back to climbing! I deleted that sentence, I haven't read the squirrel creek guide intro yet but I have walked to the top of it. Oops.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2019 - 01:15pm PT
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The Danland guys added some more text descriptions to their mini-guide so I updated the PDF
http://www.sekiclimbing.com/danland.html
I also updated my truck ('cause I'm a poser) so you can find me and say hi next time you visit the best part of Sierra :)
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