Test out my free Sequoia & Kings Canyon N.P. topos!

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limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 15, 2015 - 11:51pm PT
I'm working on a little website for Sequoia and Kings Canyon Nation Park (SEKI). Still have a LONG way to go but it's public now so I may as well share. I've started with small random stuff for practice but I hope to have the big complicated crags like Moro and Chimney Rocks up before the summer climbing season. I'll continue updating with my files of info as I have time, it just takes work to get it ready for viewing.

Any input is appreciated!

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/

Oh, and if you're interested in this area you should also check out the long running blog of Rene' Ardesch at http://southernsierraclimber.blogspot.com/ and the newly revived website by EC Joe at http://www.vertical20.com/ This place wouldn't be what it is without those guys!

Thanks,
-Daniel
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Feb 16, 2015 - 06:59am PT
Thanks;......looks awesome......thanks for sharing......(remember;..nobody cares if you tele...).....
It's cool to see some useful climbing info, and climbing related stuff!....(althought the Cats post had some cute pictures!).....
thank you again!
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Feb 16, 2015 - 07:12am PT
Way cool of you limpingcrab. Site looks good and I will definitely use this info. Big thanks.
Flip Flop

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Feb 16, 2015 - 07:41am PT
Awesome and Thank you.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
therealmccoy from Nevada City
Feb 16, 2015 - 08:22am PT
Being that your TRs are so epic this really catches my attention. I do believe I will get some use from these this year. Cheers!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 16, 2015 - 09:51am PT
Well done, happy to see the site is growing!
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Feb 16, 2015 - 10:02am PT
Thanks for the site. I have a bit of info, unrecorded routes, topos and such that this site will encourage me to get to you.

Jeff
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2015 - 10:06am PT
Thanks everyone!

That would be awesome Tork, you can get ahold of me through the site or here if you don't still have my email. I'm hoping the site encourages people to contribute and fill in the history.
Edit: sometimes PMs on here don't go through, so I've heard

I noticed it looks a bit weird on my phone because I draw things to fill a page when printed from PDF so it's tiny on here. EC gave me some helpful tips so I'm messing with it.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Feb 16, 2015 - 10:37am PT
I sent a PM, I am trying, it will be slow. This site and stuff on MP are spurring me on though. I've got a few things to add around Tokopah. I am Jealous of all those routes on the Tokopah Domes. Living in Lodgepole for several summers often unable to find partners, especially for first ascents with longish approaches, I often hiked around drooling over the possibilities up there. Made it to those Domes several times just scouting out lines. I remember that detached pillar, #7 on your topo, looked really cool.
cat t.

Sport climber
CA
Feb 16, 2015 - 03:13pm PT
So cool! Great idea and the website looks awesome.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 06:36am PT
One bump because I've already been sent great info thanks to this thread
Trad is Rad

Trad climber
San Luis Obispo California
Feb 17, 2015 - 12:43pm PT
looks good.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 17, 2015 - 01:33pm PT
Limping.... Very nice... so do you know if anything is on the big limestone wall that is right next to the top of the big switchbacks below Moro? I have looked at it with binos and wondered. I always figured that LOCALS would someday tackle it.

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 03:23pm PT
Guy, thanks for the tip about Little Baldy on MP, I'll try to straighten that history out.

About the marble in the Marble Fork canyon up there, it scares me! I've been all over both sides of that canyon looking for caves (so far there are about 25 and I've discovered and named 8 of them!) and that stuff is pretty hit or miss. There are short sections that could have fun sport routes, but overall it's pretty loose and kinda freaky to scramble on. Also, a lot of it is really sharp and grainy with big crystals.

Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 17, 2015 - 05:14pm PT
Terrific resource. If I can tear myself away from the Needles and/or expand my limited climbing time, I'll check the stuff out.

Thread drift, kind of, but since someone mentioned marble, anyone done the Matterhunk?
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Feb 17, 2015 - 05:27pm PT
Any update on the North Dome rock slide that wiped out several routes?

I'd be curious how those will be restored, if at all.

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 08:26pm PT
Fat Dad, I haven't but I've been up around it and it's smaller grained and overall seems more solid. Looks like a fun adventure route and EC said it was pretty good.

Munge, don't know the details about the exact damage. Too scared to climb up and see what's wiped off!
greyghost

Trad climber
Las Vegas, NV
Feb 17, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
Thanks for posting
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Feb 18, 2015 - 02:59pm PT
Its been a couple years now, FWIW.

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2015 - 04:28pm PT
Bump for the addition of the west face of Moro Rock. First draft at least. That was a pain in the butt!

http://www.SEKIclimbing.com/

crankster

Trad climber
Apr 4, 2015 - 04:31pm PT
Terrific!
ec

climber
ca
Apr 4, 2015 - 09:39pm PT
Daniel, in your Moro descriptions there is a reference to "no clean ascent" to a route that is a 'clean' route. So, is there something not in the gear list, or are you trying to say something totally different as, "route has not been climbed in its entirety without falling, or what?"

 ec
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2015 - 11:52pm PT
Oops, bad choice of words. What I meant was, like you guessed, nobody has climbed Modern Guilt without hanging a bunch on the crux pitch. I should have said nobody has freed the whole thing or something like that.

The other pitches are mostly 5.10 or 11- but that crux pitch is more like 5.12 vertical slab climbing. I believe Brandon Thau freed all the moves but hung a few times.

I've top roped most of an alternative that was easier but I haven't been back to follow through on it. When I went up the whole thing it was pretty incredible climbing the whole way and supposedly it's even better now that the first two pitches were moved.

Thanks for looking through it and pointing that out, I'll fix it soon!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 5, 2015 - 10:32am PT
How did I miss this?

Nice stuff, Crab!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2015 - 06:40am PT
Last bump for the new Moro stuff before I get back to work.

Thanks to EC, Tork and Mooch for the helpful feedback already!
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Apr 6, 2015 - 06:59am PT
Ho GREAT STUFF WHOOT WHOOT !! That takes work good onya' mate!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Apr 6, 2015 - 11:28am PT
Thank you for making this site, it is great. BUT I better see credit where the credit is due for taking a photo of you on the FOrtress! :)))


Also, thank you for linking to EC Joe's site. I remember it was down and through this thread I found out it has been resurrected. Is it an Easter special? Not mentioning southernsierraclimber because it has been there working and I regularly take a look there. And because I am turned off by the short shorts, long dress up socks and climbing shoes combo! :) jk.

EC, some great stories man! Seems like we have a lot in common regarding the drive towards climbing and stuff. Except I am not skilled on face climbing part to run it out on 5.10 face, or to even climb solid 5.10 sloping face/friction. It is an art I would love to get better at. You put up some balls out lines, but one story I particularly enjoyed reading was about the route you guys did on Tehipite dome. Amazing you brought a third who did not know how to jug and climbed only a few times prior to that outing. Surprised he didn't back out after the first hanging bivy or the hike...interesting thoughts about inter-partner relationships when it comes to FAs of lines one or the other is scoping. Daniel and I talked about that subject a few weeks ago. Seems like Richard Leversee was basically giving you the fact that he is going to climb the line you have scoped and told him about? Without inviting you along...seems totally wrong. Stuff like that makes me wish people respected the friendship bond more than they respect the accomplishment. But anyway, great site...



ec

climber
ca
Apr 6, 2015 - 05:50pm PT
VM,
Thx! Hey, Leversee and I did have some 'bad blood' over some things, however we've long since buried the hatchet. I've been tearing sh*t up around here trying to find his FA story on Homer's Nose. It's an entertaining read. If I can find some devices to read 'ancient' digital storage, I'll post it up on the resurrected v20 website.

Daniel,
I added some links to the v20 website of your ongoing Moro Guide/Topos. Good stuff.

 ec
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2015 - 11:33am PT
Bump for the addition of the south face of Moro
http://www.sekiclimbing.com/moro---south-face.html

Taking a break from the site for a week to actually be productive...
brotherbbock

Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
Apr 7, 2015 - 02:07pm PT
Damn, wish I had this resource back in February!

Thanks, and good work!
WBraun

climber
Apr 7, 2015 - 02:10pm PT
Well everything now makes sense.

When I was at Moro rock I had no clue what was what.

I just started climbing sh!t until I got to the top ......
ec

climber
ca
Apr 7, 2015 - 03:23pm PT
Moro Rock & SEKI stories & pictures here
Nanobody

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
Apr 7, 2015 - 08:10pm PT
Is only the South Face subject to falcon closures, or both South and West faces? The NPS website is not very informative
ec

climber
ca
Apr 7, 2015 - 09:01pm PT
South and East...usually
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2015 - 09:05pm PT
Ya, what ec said. Usually all of the south face and only the left (south) half of the east face. West face doesn't have closures
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2015 - 11:07pm PT
Bump for the addition of The Watchtower and the Neat Wall

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2015 - 11:47pm PT
Finally got the east face of Moro uploaded. Someone better use this because I crawled through bushes and fell a bunch trying to get the picture for the overlay!!!


Also made a few updates and corrections to some other stuff as usual if you look around.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/moro---east-face.html

Woot? I mean, holla?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2015 - 09:59am PT
Thanks tad!

Holy crap I hope nobody actually looked at this. Just woke up to notice a ton of mistakes, that's what I get for working late at night.

There, now all two of you who are interested in Moro can look, I think I've got it fixed.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Nov 13, 2015 - 09:59am PT
Nice work, Daniel! This site just keeps getting better.

John
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Nov 13, 2015 - 11:00am PT
This is a truly great resource- thank you!

I have a different recollection of the start of Piece de Resistance, but we may have been totally screwed up and doing it wrong. I recall an easy start to the right, then a long horizontal traverse left over reasonably easy but unprotected terrain, going a little more traversing than the height above the bushy ledge (basically soloing). That traverse led to very featured dihedral for a short ways, then onto a knobby run-out face. The next pitch was waay run-out with some sketchy crumbling chicken-heads underfoot. Still the scariest pitch I've ever climbed, and only 5.9. We bailed after that, still haven't been back. But the start had more traverse than appears in the topo, and I don't see what I recall as the memorable right-facing feature at the end of the traverse before going on the open face above.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2015 - 02:22pm PT
That's funny that you commented on this thread, Nut. I was actually going to climb PDR a while ago until I came across the Mini TR of your trip up the first couple pitches and it scared me! Instead I decided to go have a look from the base and make my best guess from that and the old SEKI guide.

I didn't take any pictures when I scoped it out but here's a pic from the internet of what I saw
First pitch in a wide crack with a bush at the top and a left facing corner to the right, as in the topo.

From there is looked like it went over into that shallow system above and then way left out towards the bigger knobs. I tried to draw that in the topo. Maybe I should show more of a shallow dihedral instead of the little left facing corner at the start of the P2 traverse? The topo is pretty zoomed out so I can't include small features and it was hard to tell from below. Are you saying it traverses further?

I also saw the wide crack to bush to shallow system from here.

If you get bored and want to draw where you went on this pic I'd be interested. I mean, in the end it's totally your fault if there are mistakes since you scared me out of my recon climb :) I should have gone anyway since it sounds like a typical scary Moro route and I'm beginning to become numb to the runout knobs...
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Nov 13, 2015 - 04:05pm PT
I had no pictures from that time, this was the only beta:

From this book:


The line drawing here accords more closely with my memory of things. I may have gone up the crack in the right corner of your picture at the base, rather than the runnel on the face. Then across the bushy ledge, then a very exposed 5.9 step-across move or two to a little ledge at the base of the short dihedral. I think overall, the route is more to the left than is visible in your first picture of the base. But my memory is generally quite bad about these details.


IF ANY AUTHORS OR PUBLISHER WANT ME TO TAKE THIS DOWN, I WILL- LET ME KNOW. I just thought it's been out of print so it doesn't make a monetary difference to them. If that is presumptuous of me, I'll yank it.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Nov 13, 2015 - 04:09pm PT
Upon reflection, we might have done the start of Moro Oro and traversed that ledge, rather than going straight up as the route was supposed to go. But even so, the rest of the route would be more to the left than in your first pic. I recall it being open knobby face, no runnels or crack features or streaks to follow above the short big of dihedral down low.

Edit: Upon more reflection, I think that line drawing is not quite right, or I'm not remembering the scale correctly. I clearly remember going up some left-facing dihedral or mini buttress from the ground to reach that bushy ledge, then traversing left a ways on the bushy ledge, then a left step-across a blankish face section to the good ledge at the base of the short featured dihedral. Above that, wide open face with knobs.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
Ya I've got that book and Greg and Dave won't care if it's posted but I don't know Sally. They lost all the rights to it once the publishing company got bought out so they got kinda screwed. They tried to remake the whole guide to update it about 10 or so years ago and their computer got stolen with no back ups. Huge bummer for nice guys.

Also, crap. It's starting to look like I might finally have to climb PDR once and for all. Any chance you traversed out to the bolt at the top of the 5.9 alternate start?

Either way, thanks a ton for the feedback, it's good to know where I need to investigate more. On the bright side my PDR topo is almost the same as the one in the book and you guys found the route so it must work ok?

FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Nov 13, 2015 - 06:32pm PT
Really nice work

Thanks
shylock

Social climber
mb
Nov 13, 2015 - 09:31pm PT
i'll climb PDR with you daniel! hey, sounds like a weekend at moro sometime soon then
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2015 - 09:45pm PT
It's looking that way, Brian. The road is closed right now so we'll have to wait until the snow melts or walk the road from the museum if we want to before spring.
shylock

Social climber
mb
Nov 13, 2015 - 11:34pm PT
wait til spring?? i would expect more from you.. it's like a 20 minute extra walk. on a road.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2015 - 11:49pm PT
Ha! I can't count the number of times people have said they didn't want to climb at Moro because the road was closed. I should have known the night navigation expert was not one of those people.

My sincere apologies.
Rockin' Gal

Trad climber
Boulder
Nov 14, 2015 - 04:17pm PT
What great information on EC's and Rene's blogs and on this site. I loved the pics and stories. Good to know that there's still adventure in climbing.
Sally
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2015 - 09:44pm PT
Thanks for the compliments!

BTW, you related to a Keith and Kevin, same last name?
Indeed, father's cousins. Small world. Actually, ever since one of my grandparents changed their name from Jeffcoat to Jeffcoach there have only been a few generations. If you meet a Jeffcoach we are directly related. Odd last name but at least we get to feel special?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2016 - 10:47am PT
Well, it's winter so I added hospital Rock to the site.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/hospital-rock.html

Not a ton of info for it but it's a fun winter spot and in the shade in summer!

Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Feb 3, 2016 - 11:12am PT
Hey Nutagain! I recently found some slides of the first ascent of PDR while you guys are on the subject. Not the best, there's 2 climbers in the pic. If you could free this part, the route would go free.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2016 - 04:10pm PT
Ha! Whichever you prefer. Although posting beta online might result in actually seeing a single person up there, so beware!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 3, 2016 - 04:28pm PT
If you show up in danland, you are likely gonna get attacked by all the Dans and a gang of salamanders.
Haha. It is not a locals only crag. In fact, I wouldn't be surprise if the guys that climb there would buy you dinner. They are really happy to see other climbers having a good time out there.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 3, 2016 - 04:54pm PT
Danland would be very nice as soon as we get some 55-65 temps in 3 rivers.

Make sure you bring your best game, that stone is really slick...




Just beware of the locals...

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2016 - 05:12pm PT
Danland should be good by this weekend. It's just over 4,000 ft but since it faces SW and it's steep it dries really quickly, so as long as you can handle the temps the rock should be good. They're putting up some climbs waaaaay left in a slabby area that seeps a bit but the stuff in the online guide dries quickly.

Rene may have a better feel for things since he's in the area a lot, maybe he'll chime in.

Basically, if Tollhouse is good it'll probably be good, just a bit cooler.


Edit to add: The rock there can be hit or miss with some awesome climbs and some crumbly ones. If you head down feel free to get a hold of me and I can make some recommendations!

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 8, 2016 - 10:00pm PT
Cool, glad you guys made it and got some climbing in!

Thinking back on it, it totally makes sense that race crack would stay wet a little longer. That would explain why the rock right there is insanely slick.

Hope you found some of the good routes!
Gunkie

climber
Feb 9, 2016 - 07:56am PT
Impressive stuff! Question: What are the Royal Arches or Snake Dike or Nose or RNWFHD equivalents in this region?
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Feb 9, 2016 - 08:36am PT
Danland has been pretty clear of snow and Dan and Larry have been up at their usual twice a week pretty much all year. There have been some cold days but now that its warmer its a great time to go up. There is seepage on some of places. You couldn't find better climbing hosts! Both Dan and Larry are very supportive no matter what rating you are climbing and both climb way harder than most climbers for their 60's age!! You can look at the Case Mountain RAW station which is across from Danland west to get an idea of temps and other cool stuff. http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/mesowest/timeseries.php?wfo=hnx&sid=CSWC1&num=120

For longer routes there is Moro Rock close by. Danland is just inside SEKI
Send

Trad climber
Central Sierra
Feb 9, 2016 - 12:05pm PT
How'd the PDR attempt go? That's on my list for sure, so please spray me down!

Chad
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2016 - 12:10pm PT
I think all the thanks that Dan and Larry want is for people to actually climb there and enjoy the routes. It's hard to believe but that entire approach trail was made without any tools. Dan is a former ranger and wants good climber/ranger relationships in SEKI so he made the trail by dragging his feet and went through six pairs of cheap shoes in the first season! He will occasionally use a rake if the leaves get bad. So basically they just like it when people don't cut corners or smash the little water diversions.

I wish Green Crack was as good as it looked from the ground. The first time I saw it it was still unclimbed and it was kind of a bummer to find that grainy part in the middle once I finally did the route (not the FA). Still fun though!

The dome has 14 pitches on it, but it's not 14 pitches tall. I haven't even been over there yet but I guess they ran out of cracks and started bolting some slab and face routes over there. Larry sounded pretty excited about it so there must be some fun ones! (though he's always just excited in general).


EDIT: Didn't get around to doing PDR before winter came along, Chad. If you end up needing a partner I'll be happy to join if I still haven't done it.
Gunkie

climber
Feb 9, 2016 - 05:19pm PT
I knew I had the guidebook. 1993 edition in mint condition.


Kris Solem on a 5.3+ or something like that.

Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
Feb 13, 2016 - 09:10pm PT
Why are people leaving fixed lines all over the bases of the various climbs at Danland? I went there today and found a huge number of fixed lines. Also, I found a climbing rack with cams and quickdraws in a tree at the base of a climb as well as a fixed top rope with many gear left in the rock. What is with leaving many stick clips all over the place? What is with the belay seat left on the first pitch of the climb? The place looks like a sh#thole. Clean up your sh#t or it will disappear.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2016 - 09:45pm PT
Gunkie, you missed your chance! A few years ago that book was selling for over $300 but now that mountainproject has more info and my site is up the price went way down. Cool to have one in perfect condition!



Climberdude, I hope that was a friendly word of advice and not a threat? All of the gear and ropes up there are Dan's. He lives a few minutes away and is up there several times a week, usually alone. There's a lot of trust in SEKI and no point in carrying everything up and down the trail and many of the fixed lines lead to new areas, projects, or bolts he is upgrading for everyone's enjoyment. In the past 5 or 6 years the number of climbers that had been to Danland could probably be counted on your fingers and toes. It's only been recently that other people have come to climb.

PLEASE don't take or tamper with the gear up there! Nobody even cares if you want to TR a route with a rope as long as you leave it safe for the next person. It's a small climbing community up there and everyone gets along great, I'm sure if they even suspected the "Sh*t show" was bothering anyone they would be quick to apologize and move anything that's in the way.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 13, 2016 - 09:48pm PT
It would be a bit dickish to take the rack of the people who put in years of work and love into developing that place. Everything from making the trail you walked on, to cleaning the cracks you climbed, bolts you clipped and topos you used. The fixed lines are on their projects. The crag is being continuously developed. From what i understand the guys who love that place are out there multiple times a week...
Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
Feb 13, 2016 - 10:00pm PT
Yes, it was a friendly word of advice. The place looks horrible with all of fixed gear all over the place. This is in a National Park and all fixed gear must be removed within 24 hours.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2016 - 12:02am PT
Thanks Cosmic!

Climberdude, I'll let Dan know more people are climbing there so he might want to be a little more subtle with is work :)

Have we ever met? If you're from Clovis we should meet up sometime, I'm always looking to meet other valley people!
-Daniel Jeffcoach
doughnutnational

Gym climber
its nice here in the spring
Feb 16, 2016 - 07:38am PT
Why are people leaving fixed lines all over the bases of the various climbs at Danland? I went there today and found a huge number of fixed lines. Also, I found a climbing rack with cams and quickdraws in a tree at the base of a climb as well as a fixed top rope with many gear left in the rock. What is with leaving many stick clips all over the place? What is with the belay seat left on the first pitch of the climb? The place looks like a sh#thole. Clean up your sh#t or it will disappear.

This is messed up. It's not like the owners/developers are hard to find. You are basically inviting someone to go up and steal their gear. Too late now but you should have made an effort to contact them in a less public manner. I'd like to thank Larry, Dan and company for developing an area and being willing to share.
this just in

climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
Feb 16, 2016 - 07:44am PT
Climberdude, stashing gear during the development of an area is totally acceptable in my view. It's a lot of work and I kinda think you should be a little more grateful/respectful for their work and gear. Definitely shouldn't be making a stink out of it.
"Clean up your sh#t or it will disappear." Is anything but friendly advice.
Climberdude

Trad climber
Clovis, CA
Feb 16, 2016 - 08:05am PT
Yes, I agree that stashing gear is usually acceptable and perhaps should be considered. However, to have it just strung out all over the place at the base and on climbs, as I observed, is:

(1) Looks bad to climbers (I thought I came across the scene of a climbing accident, which I have observed twice at other locations or someone trying to make an outdoor climbing gym, a situation I also observed once at remote location).

(2) Looks bad to the public if someone happened to come across it.

(3) Is in stark contrast to the careful effort that people have described the developer used to minimize impact and stay within the regulations of the NP when developing the trail going up to the site.

(4) Is an invitation to having the items taken, by whomever.

By the way, I have also done a lot of development of climbs in very remote locations done rope solo. I lug all my gear in and all my gear out each day. I appreciate the great effort people have done to develop climbs at this location, but was kind of shocked by what I found once I reached the climbing area.
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Feb 16, 2016 - 10:09am PT
Troubling words there climberdude ! I always 'assume' all local climbers support each other and their endeavors. Pretty scary ultimatum coming from a local. I can't imagine having a bad time at Danland or taking anybodys gear. Unfortunately, now that this is mainstream everyone else knows about this too. Danland doesn't get hardly any traffic and having one less climber wouldn't be too bad.
Camahoo

Trad climber
Northern Seki
Feb 17, 2016 - 02:39pm PT
The route you guys are working looks bad ass. Kinda looks like there has been a lot of air time and rubber spent.
A friend and I went up there and gotta say normally I post smart ass remarks. This time however, nice job! There looks to be a lot thought to each line. Bolts where they are needed and the forethought of pitch height to limit rope drag is a nice touch.
I have visited the website and gotta say being from the Northern Seki, you southern guys are doing a great job getting routes and area information out. The northern side is in the shadow of shuteye so our information media person "Da White Crow" has been working on the printed side.
Just a note; JR and I could not see your new route from the parking area, maybe post a card board sign at the top of the trail about route working in progress. That way someone new to the area will not feel like they need to molest your gear. We could see clearly that a route was being developed, however some of us are clueless and don't understand the ownership in the development of an area or route.
Thanks for the hard work.

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2016 - 05:15pm PT
Thanks, Camahoo! I haven't been to Danland in a while but I'll call Dan and catch him up on everyone's thoughts since he doesn't spend much time on the computer.

By northern SEKI are you talking about Cedar Grove/Kings Canyon or are you talking way up there in the backcountry or something?
Send

Trad climber
Central Sierra
Feb 17, 2016 - 06:23pm PT
Fixed lines, woohoo! It's going to be a great spring!
SEKI can be a tough place to find partners sometimes.
Big thanks to the people making this happen!
C-ya out there,.....

Oh, and I'd never steal yer gear. My triples/quad rack is too much sh#t to haul around anyway.....I will buy you a beer though.
Thanks again!


Chad
Send

Trad climber
Central Sierra
Feb 17, 2016 - 06:48pm PT
Jeremy, cool thanks for clearing that up.


Anybody wanna climb at Danland this spring, lemme know!
Highgloss

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 19, 2016 - 04:33pm PT
Not sure whats Danland but Im super down to get on some hq granite anytime.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 19, 2016 - 05:07pm PT
High quality granite...Hamilton and Cherubim domes are top notch. Bubbs Creek Wall is like a backcountry big wall with amazing granite and free climbing. West side has incredible granite honestly. Way better than any of the eastern sierra classics. High country stuff is awesome in own way of course...
Camahoo

Trad climber
Northern Seki
Feb 29, 2016 - 02:06pm PT
Limpingcrab, Northern SEKI as I was using it is the northern most part of the sierra covered in the SEKI guidebook. There is no one name to call this area, between Kings and the San Joaquin rivers. This area is mostly overlooked because of Shuteye and SEKI. Maybe Dinky is the most fitting. Maybe slablands?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2016 - 02:44pm PT
Got it. Lots of new routes going up around there.

For now I'm just updating the site for places in Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Park (SEKI), not all the places covered by the old guide.

So much rock, so little time!
LOWERme

Trad climber
NM
Feb 29, 2016 - 04:43pm PT
West side has incredible granite honestly. Way better than any of the eastern sierra classics.

Zumwalt choss....

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2016 - 05:37pm PT
Starting Chimney Rocks and got Crystal Wall up.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/chimney-rocks.html

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 13, 2016 - 01:13am PT
Just updated the south and west faces of Moro rock and added Bear Rock to the Danland PDF. 'Tis the season!

shylock

Social climber
mb
Jul 2, 2016 - 12:45am PT
Don't think the west face ever closes and I think i heard south face is already open...
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2016 - 09:29am PT
Chimney Rocks is closed but it's correct that the west face of moro never closes, as well as the NE face. Radish and I have both had discussions with the new biologist about the South Face route on Moro and he sounded willing to keep it open but that was after the closure was posted online and it hasn't changed

http://www.nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/rockclimb.htm

He may have opened it and just not communicated that to the publicist person running the website.

This weekend will be NUTS up there though! The road to Moro is closed on busy weekend so you'll have to ride the free shuttle (unless you arrive really early), which isn't a big deal. Once you get past the crowds you still probably won't see any climbers.

Edit: Just sent you a PM, Moose

Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jul 2, 2016 - 11:11am PT
Moro is calling! Its a really busy weekend in the park with long waits to get in. But, Its way worth it, once you get on the rock and away from all the tourists. The South Face route on Moro is open. I know they haven't posted it but I have been assured that it is open. Though if you go bring lots of water and be ready for a long day of fun in the sun !!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2016 - 01:40pm PT
Awesome news Rene'! Thanks for the update
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 09:25am PT
Cool, Moose! Hope you had a good time cragging and didn't have too many problems with parking. Be sure to come back for the South Face of Moro, it makes for a fun day.

PM wasn't important, it was just about the closure before Rene' confirmed that it's definitely open.

How was Neat Wall? I've actually never even climbed there :/ I was given the topo with some beta and went and checked it out alone a couple times but didn't do any routes. Looked good enough for anyone in the Giant Forest area with a couple hours to kill, but I'm interested to hear some feedback on the quality and topo accuracy...
ec

climber
ca
Jul 5, 2016 - 09:52am PT
Radish and I have both had discussions with the new biologist about the South Face route on Moro and he sounded willing to keep it open but that was after the closure was posted online and it hasn't changed -lc

Having worked on peregrine projects out there, I woulda thought Rene' had sense enough to realize that if the East Face is closed, there would be NO good reason to open the South Face. Why? In order to access the South Face, one must travel beneath the East Face. These birds are protective during nesting and any 'intruder' may give them reason to burst out of the aerie, which can damage the eggs. Peregrines do not make finely padded nests; they are right on the rock, with a bit of sand, if it's there.

Even after they had abandoned an aerie one year (w/unhatched damaged eggs), they were swooping my exposed ass while not even close to the aerie.


 ec
ec

climber
ca
Jul 5, 2016 - 09:59am PT
limpingcrab,
PDR, starts to the right of the wide crack on the face with the bolts. Then traverses left to the joust pitch. Going up the crack misses some good faceclimbing; it'll warm ya up for what's ahead.

 ec
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 10:25am PT
Thanks ec, Shylock (Brian) and I climbed PDR after it came up on this thread. A little spooky but awesome! We really wanted to free she short aid section but it didn't happen. Only two moves of aid if your 6'4"!


As for the peregrines, I'm no expert but I have learned a fair amount through reading and monitoring them for the forest service for two years. Their sensitivity seems to be influenced by their surroundings and being that the Moro pair has hundreds of tourists above their eyrie (generally more sensitive to disturbance from above) every day I'd be surprised if they're bothered by a few people walking hundreds of feet below. Once on route the South Face is way around the corner and shouldn't be an issue. The biologist seemed to agree but he admitted to being more of a mammal guy in the same way I'm more of a reptile guy.

I'm just happy that he's willing to work with climbers!
ec

climber
ca
Jul 5, 2016 - 05:22pm PT
limpingcrab,
I used to work for those guys for years doing peregrine surveys for them. Even over 'around the corner' is an issue for the birds; even walking below. I speak from having been there. Touroids on top don't seem to matter though, go figure...

 ec
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2016 - 10:15am PT
Thanks Moose, I didn't notice much moss on my scouts but saw some bushy-ness. I know a few people have climbed down there this summer when they stayed in that area and were just looking for some cragging. Maybe it'll clean up soon now that the info is out. Hope it wasn't a waste of your time.

I guess we'll see ec! I'm not too worried either way, honestly...
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2016 - 01:23pm PT
The guys haven't stopped playing at Danland! Updated the PDF to reflect over 20 new routes in two new areas.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/danland.html
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2016 - 11:18pm PT
Added what I know of big baldy just in time for the road to be closed, ha! Contender for my favorite roadside formation in the park.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/big-baldy.html

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2016 - 07:18pm PT
Final bump for Big Baldy for those interested. Possibly gonna start adding some Kings Canyon stuff next...
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Dec 3, 2016 - 10:52am PT
Roadside? "1/2 mile hike"!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2016 - 11:42am PT
Anything under two hours is roadside :)
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Dec 3, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
Haha! Moro & Crystal are closer...
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Dec 3, 2016 - 01:59pm PT
Aldude, I hope your not complaining! Daniel has done a ton of work making this Big Baldy climbing info happen, including lots of rapping and hiking to check on things. And....its FREE online for you.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Dec 3, 2016 - 02:07pm PT
Not complaining...just noting what roadside means.Roadside = bumper belay*
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
Bumper belay is a thing!?!?! I've never tried so I figured if you could climb something car to car in a day it's roadside. Maybe even Castle Rock Spire. Hehe
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Dec 8, 2016 - 02:16pm PT
or Valhalla or The Prism could fall into that category <rolls eyes>

Nice work Daniel!! Long overdue!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 8, 2016 - 02:19pm PT
aldude.... hi, I hope your doing well.


I've never tried so I figured if you could climb something car to car in a day it's roadside. Maybe even Castle Rock Spire. Hehe


Youth.... you do it C to C in 24 hrs, I will take you to dinner at your favorite place in Visalia. Deal???
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2016 - 02:43pm PT
Deal!

I tried once, got close, but think I can pull it off next time.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Dec 8, 2016 - 06:01pm PT
Get cracking!!!! 24 hours not a second more...
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Dec 8, 2016 - 07:16pm PT
Yo GU•...
Bascuela

Trad climber
Fresno, CA
Dec 21, 2016 - 02:25pm PT
Got to visit Danland yesterday. Phenomenal day in t-shirt weather. Got in a few quality routes like Crack-N-Up chimney and Sky Walker to name a few.
But I gotta admit, what I was most impressed about the place was the approach trail. I mean this thing was a serious work of art!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2017 - 01:57pm PT
Ha! Ya, believe it or not, that trail was made without the use of any hand tools because they're sticking to the rules in the park. Purely dragging their feet, with some raking after the leaves fall.

Just updated Danland with a few new topos and the route descriptions people have been asking for. Route descriptions are a separate document available to download.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/danland.html

Also, Rene (Radish) has a stash of great pictures of the area he'll be posting on his blog soon, so check that out every so often if you're interested.

http://southernsierraclimber.blogspot.com/

It's climbable in the winter!
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jan 29, 2017 - 11:06am PT
Spectacular year round crag that's getting some traffic these days. Nice location and close to town. Thanks for putting the info up Daniel....
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2017 - 04:04pm PT
I'm going to start adding a few climbs for Kings Canyon while we await the eventual completion of a guide for Yosemite's forgotten sibling.

Here's North Sentinel, outstanding crack climbing. First draft at least, I'm sure it'll be tweaked before the road opens this year.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/north-sentinel.html

Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Feb 13, 2017 - 04:50pm PT
Nice as always Daniel. I'm curious....where does this fit in your Sentinel Topo..around the corner?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2017 - 04:56pm PT
Thanks.

North Sentinel would be about where the route names are in your pic. You can see grand Sentinel in the background of my approach pic.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2017 - 03:50pm PT
I've got a few crack trad climbs up for Kings Canyon, so now here are some TR, sport and face climbs up while we wait for an update on the guidebook.

Brand new 5.11a, safe, mostly bolt protected 1,200 ft route up a marble face by the road in California? Yes please.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/boyden-cavern-area.html

guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 17, 2017 - 04:36pm PT
Limping.... looks like a good climb.

Chris Labounty????

The same one?

was he part of the starting team?

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2017 - 06:02pm PT
Yup, he and Brandon started it, then Brandon returned to finish it with Sean if I remember correctly. Wish I would have been able to meet Chris, he sounds like he was a great guy to be in the mountains with.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 24, 2017 - 09:00am PT
Hey limping.... is the MMMM climb south facing? When is the best time to climb it? Looks to be just what im looking for, a nice day out in the mountains without a 15 mile hike.

Ross... when do you think the Scenic Byway will be open?? I needs a Shuteye fix... badly.
i-b-goB

Social climber
Wise Acres
Mar 24, 2017 - 09:40am PT
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Mar 24, 2017 - 03:01pm PT
Pretty mountains bump.






Paul W

Trad climber
Visalia, CA
Mar 27, 2017 - 03:21pm PT
The usual Moro closures start on Saturday, April 1.

https://www.nps.gov/seki/planyourvisit/rockclimb.htm
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2017 - 09:11am PT
I missed a bump to my thread, I'm a failure!

Paul is right about April 1st Moro closures, Jeremy. What's yet to be determined is if they will close the South Face route this year. Last year the new biologist up there was receptive to the idea of leaving it open so we'll see once the details are posted. I drove by yesterday and the approach road is still closed so you'll have to walk a bit either way. A friend climbed the south face two weeks ago and the approach gully was fully of snow so it sounded interesting!

Guy, Magic Mountain Marble Majesty is south east facing, maybe ESE. That road usually opens in April, haven't heard of any major rock falls this year so hopefully that will still be the case. It should be dry by then but that marble is so tacky that you could probably climb it wet.
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
Mar 29, 2017 - 10:45am PT
Senor Daniel! Looks like a nice variation and separate route could be done after the first pitch of 'Chasing The Wind' (see photo where the big arch starts on the left). Lots of territory up there.

Hey Jeremy, how's it going? Hoping to chat (since ST email doesn't work).
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 29, 2017 - 10:56am PT
Limping thanks for the Info.

mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Kernville Annex)
Mar 29, 2017 - 12:55pm PT
five five niner prefix, right Jeremy? Gonna give you a ring. Much better to chat! :)
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Mar 29, 2017 - 01:05pm PT
My friend Bruce Bourassa was on the FA of Cosmopolis. He told me he thought it might go free. I hiked up that DOA gully to scope it. It looks really good, but damn I was dead on arrival after ascending that gully. Things in Kings Canyon tend to be a lot bigger than they look.

Another example of that phenomenon is Silver Slipstream. When you start hiking out there it looks like it's maybe a quarter mile or so to get there. But after the first quarter mile it doesn't look any closer. When you finally arrive the thing is immense.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2017 - 10:54am PT
No problem Jeremy and Guy, always looking for an excuse to stop grading and talk about mountains.

Senor Daniel! Looks like a nice variation and separate route could be done after the first pitch of 'Chasing The Wind' (see photo where the big arch starts on the left). Lots of territory up there.
Ya, because that part of the face is lower angle you could go almost anywhere. Not to mention to lower 2/3 of North Sentinel is still unclimbed, all of the routes on the site are just on the headwall. The lower section looked uninspiring from below, but looks pretty darn fun and clean from above.


Funny you mention that Kris, I talked my wife into a "quick" detour out to look at Silver Slipstream, with our son in tow. It was not as quick as I sold it to be! That part of the canyon is like a lost world. Little boulders on google earth turn out to be bigger than my house.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 30, 2017 - 11:12am PT
I think Kris has the name of the climb wrong... It is "Scarlet Slipstream"

If I recall correctly... and that place is like being in the drop zone at certain times of the year....the bolt hangers are all flattened out, shatter scars all over the place, logs shattered and pilled up at the bottom... It was like a place humans did not belong at.



limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 30, 2017 - 12:20pm PT
Oh ya, you're right Guy. I also heard that some ice climbing has been done in that area by folks willing to ride bicycles out after the road is closed.

Giant bowling alley plus ice? No thanks.
dkark23

Sport climber
FRESNO
Dec 5, 2017 - 03:39pm PT
@limpingcrab do you have a list of names/grades to go with the topo you posted for crystal wall?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2017 - 04:32pm PT
Ya, it's all on the site http://www.sekiclimbing.com/crystal-wall.html

Click the button at the bottom do download it as a PDF. If should say that but apparently I left the button saying "enter text." Oops.

Speaking of that, I should add more stuff at Chimney Rocks. With this new job and moving I have neglected the site for a while.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2018 - 12:23pm PT
Updated the west face of Moro, east face of Moro and lower Tokopah Dome with a new route or two each, and some fixes.

Working on Chimney Spire so I have a question and am hoping I get lucky with an answer:
Does anyone know the history, name or grade of the bolted route to the left of Duet and right of Only the Good?



http://www.SEKIclimbing.com
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jul 14, 2018 - 02:26pm PT
Might be a Barry Chambers route.?.
ec

climber
ca
Jul 14, 2018 - 06:47pm PT
I believe that was a route done by one of the guys that worked at Monecito Sequoia Lodge.

Late Ď90ís

 ec
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
Jul 14, 2018 - 10:06pm PT
This route was bolted up to the crux, with aid, by John Garrison, who worked at Montecito Sequoia, and Frank Oliveira of the Fresno area. The late Bruce Price was belaying them and instructing them as they had never aided before. I showed up late and Bruce wanted me to take over because they were tired. I hang-dogged my way up the thing, working it out, and was able to lead past the crux after 2-3 attempts. I pulled up the Bosch with the tag line and drilled another bolt. Led to the top of the point, on natural pro. I came back next week, with Leni belaying, was able to fire it. Garrison got the second ascent the next week, I think. Not sure of the rating, but could be in the 11a/11b range. Bruce wanted to call it "A Few Good Men" as he had just seen the movie. I'm not much on the military themes, but I told Bruce fine, after all, it was his bolts and Bosch.

Bruce had been a Vietnam Wartime Marine and I guess it meant something to him. It was done in 1993, I believe.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2018 - 11:14pm PT
You guys are awesome, thanks a ton! I love history and hate writing "unknown" on stuff. For that whole area Richie Copeland (RIP) was a friendly and helpful contact while he worked seasonally at Montecito so it's been hard to gather info since his accident.

I still need a few better pics for overlays but you've saved me some time so thanks again, it's great hearing how stuff happened from the people that know or were there.

-Daniel
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
Jul 15, 2018 - 07:54am PT
The big thank you goes to you limpingcrab for taking all of the time and energy to collect all of this information! It looks like you're doing amazing work. So, Thank You!!!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2018 - 11:02am PT
Christian Black, a seasonal ranger in Kings Canyon this season, made a little mini-guide of the routes he climbed. He sent it to me and I think posted it a few other places, so I added it to the site to give a few more option for Kings Canyon until I get more on the website or the guidebook gets finished. What a nice dude!

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/kings-canyon-samples.html

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Sep 28, 2018 - 11:27am PT
He's the holder of the current speed record on Freak Show! :)


Sounds like he's having hella fun down there!
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Sep 28, 2018 - 12:11pm PT
That's great Daniel! I had heard several times this season about all the parkies climbing down there. Wish I could have joined them. I'm pretty sure that they will be keeping Cedar Grove open longer this year too so you all go get some!!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2018 - 10:28pm PT
Lots of time on my hands so Chimney Spire is up and Chimney Rock is coming soon, in addition to edits and additions to other areas that have been generously shared with me.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/chimney-spire.html

Kitty from Hell is sooooooo good. Can't find anyone who's done Power Crystal?
shylock

Social climber
mb
Oct 29, 2018 - 05:39pm PT
awesome! face down is more like 12c than 12a imo... so hard! what about north face routes? i know freaky deaky fell down (or is that right?) but there aren't any others?

if broken heels = seki climbing content, then ok by me
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Oct 29, 2018 - 10:03pm PT
The real reason those guys broke you!!!! ;)
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2018 - 10:48am PT
Haha! Well it worked, Munge.


Thanks Brian, I changed the grade and made the gear suggestion a bit more specific. I found one other person who climbed it and also though it was a sandbag.

When that rock fell on the northeast face it took "Freaky Deaky" and "Now You See 'Em, Now You Don't" down with it. I only know of one other route from the old SEKI guidebook and it's listed as an unknown one pitch climb so I just didn't include that side of the spire.

I have found at least two anchors and one piece of bail gear high up on the wall by searching through a spotting scope and my pictures. I asked around at Montecito and haven't found anyone who knows about those possible routes.

Go climb them and find out! I would go TR solo that face and find out, but, you know, the approach isn't wheelchair accessible.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Oct 30, 2018 - 04:30pm PT
We know you are good on your knees ;) ;)
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 30, 2018 - 05:50pm PT
Well, I do have scabs on my knees.



Chimney Rock is now up and running. Lots of things I need to double check but I'll have to wait until next season, unless you nice folks want to go test it and let me know. There's a previously unpublished route on Chimney Rock and on Chimney Spire included. And probably some wrong info so it'll be a surprise.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/chimney-rock.html

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2018 - 05:07pm PT
Bump for Brandon Thau putting up a new route with his son and Neal Harder, so that's been added now. It's called 1000 Piece Meal Deal because there are so many chicken nuggets, I mean heads. I love those domes.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/tokopah-domes.html

shylock

Social climber
mb
Nov 4, 2018 - 06:44am PT
with his son too, how cool. I wonder if that roof also has a 'reality' type route on it. I never made it that far over there to look.. didn't vitaliy do a new route on santa cruz? where's that go?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2018 - 05:01pm PT
Dang it! I forgot about Vitaliy's new route so I'll have to edit again.

I don't remember any cracks through that roof on the far right, just the giant holes.

Speaking of new routes, I was missing a bunch that were just done on Chimney Rock this fall. Here they are for the hardmen and women out there.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/chimney-rock.html

aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Nov 4, 2018 - 08:26pm PT
Something funny about the 3 new 5.12 routes on Chimney Rock NW face....No bolts?
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2018 - 10:24am PT
Probably bolts, just received overlays and gear info.. Once I get more beta I can make topos with bolt counts.
shylock

Social climber
mb
Nov 5, 2018 - 11:30am PT
what's funny? and what do you mean by asking 'no bolts?' they look effing awesome to me!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2018 - 12:36pm PT
Just got the bolt counts and more accurate descriptions so Iíll add the extra info in the next couple days
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
Nov 6, 2018 - 09:48am PT
How ya healin'? Hope you're not getting cabin fever.

Tokapah Domes have always called out to me and I've never answered that call. Maybe in the next couple of years. Looks like there's still room out there.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2018 - 09:25pm PT
Ha! I got cabin fever after about two hours. I don't remember the last time I went two weeks without going to the mountains so I rolled my wheelchair around Grant's Grove in SEKI this weekend, that helped.

Tokopah Domes are great, I love it up there. It's day-trip-able from the parking lot if you're agressive, but I'd recommend hanging out up there for a few days.



PS: updated a little mistake on the west face descent routes. Not much else this week, took a little break to watch birds in my yard :/ Also bought knee pads so I can crawl to the river to fish :)
mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
Nov 15, 2018 - 07:28am PT
Did I ever send you the 3rd pitch variation for Timex that Roger Hayashi and I did in 1996? Wasn't sure if it was worth noting on the topo for The Watchtower. We ended up calling it the 'Casio Traverse'.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2018 - 09:40pm PT
Huh? No I don't think I know about that but I'd like to! (sorry, slow reply, I got my wheelchair up to a cabin so I could at least look at mountains)


Also fixed an error on North Sentinel and added a short route to Buena Vista Peak on http://www.sekiclimbing.com/
Paul W

Trad climber
Three Rivers, CA
Nov 27, 2018 - 10:12am PT
Thanks for all of the free content. I did Snowboots with Chad on Sunday, and it was nice to have a topo with us. It was a very fun route that made for a nice day trip. The last pitch and a half were quite wet and cold, which added to the adventure.
Paul W

Trad climber
Three Rivers, CA
Dec 6, 2018 - 09:31am PT

mooch

Trad climber
Tribal Base Camp (Riverkern Annex)
Dec 6, 2018 - 10:10am PT
Sent you the variation for The Watchtower.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2018 - 02:17pm PT
Thatís awesome, Paul! Iíve never heard of anyone else climbing it. Doesnít mean nobody does, of course, but itís cool to see that scenic route get some love. I hope the Topo and beta werenít terrible. I also hope you found a better descent route than I did.

Thanks mooch, Iíll update that soon.
Paul W

Trad climber
Three Rivers, CA
Dec 6, 2018 - 02:38pm PT
We found chalk and a couple of pieces of bail gear, so somebodyís been up there. Great rock and views on that route! If it was roadside in Yosemite, it would be at least a 3 star climb. The last pitch was pretty wet and icy, which made it interesting. Iím dying to go back and climb Adrift. Also canít wait to get up to the Tokopah Domes. So much to do around here!

The descent took us an hour and a half to get back to where we stashed our packs, with just a tiny bit of manzanita thrashing.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2018 - 02:50pm PT
Cool, if you climb Adrift and are in the mood to sketch a topo or record some beta I'd love the details on that climb since I haven't climbed it yet. If not, no worries, then at least I'll have an excuse to climb it.
shylock

Social climber
mb
Dec 7, 2018 - 08:45pm PT
dang that snow boots actually looks awesome
grubs

climber
Dec 12, 2018 - 10:19am PT
A note on Tokopah Domes if you haven't been... if you go, climb Tokopah Reality- it's great. And the holes left of Thousand Piece Meal Deal sadly don't go anywhere, just dark pockets, and they don't even connect to each other.

Daniel- thanks for all the info. Hope you heal up fast and can get back to that limestone monstrosity. B and I were really hoping you guys would put something good up over there so we could go do it without all the hard work ;)

-Neal
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2019 - 03:24pm PT
Thanks Neal! I'm walking again now, albeit slowly. Three months ago today so my bones should be full strength, now I just have to keep up with the PT to strengthen everything else.


New addition:
Squirrel Creek, a small crag near Danland has been added to the site. Both of those locations are prefect for winter for anyone looking for southern Sierra/SEKI options. Squirrel Creek is like 90 seconds from the road and almost everything can be top-roped. Also, nobody has seen a squirrel there yet, last I checked.

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/danland.html

Jeff G

Trad climber
Fort Collins
Jan 21, 2019 - 04:43pm PT
Great info! Thanks for the topos!

What would be a good time of year to try Modern Guilt on Moro Rock?
two-shoes

Trad climber
Auberry, CA
Jan 21, 2019 - 05:03pm PT
Wishing you a speedy, and thorough, recovery!!!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 21, 2019 - 06:25pm PT
What would be a good time of year to try Modern Guilt on Moro Rock?
Spring or Fall, it can get pretty warm on the west face of Moro mid-summer. If you're just working on it or climb quickly then it's great any time before noon in the summer since mornings above 6,000 feet are nice, but once the sun hits the light colored granite on that part of the rock it can heat up. It's not unbearable, I've climbed a lot of the moderates on the south and west faces during the summer, but for MG some cool temps and high friction would be helpful.
Jeff G

Trad climber
Fort Collins
Jan 22, 2019 - 06:11am PT
Thanks! Modern Guilt looks really amazing!!
shylock

Social climber
mb
Jan 22, 2019 - 06:23am PT
Hey Daniel, he explicitly states in the squirrel creek guide that you shouldnít walk around on top of the cliff, I.e. to setup a tr. your comment that all routes are toprope-able makes it sound like you can walk to the top to do so... just doin my part with nothin but bad weather and time down here :) .

As far as MG. Iíve played on it in the winter many times. Though it sounds like maybe not this winter? Anyway since youíre from out of state and will likely come to ca in the spring or fall, just hit it then. Perfect stop on the way to the needles from the valley for instance. Or just spend all time in SEKI :) . Daniel is spot on with his summer time beta. Key point being it faces west and some days once in the sun could be fine with a breeze . Additionally, you can likely be past the cruxes once the sun hits...

For granite face climbing, the route is all time..
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Jan 22, 2019 - 11:45am PT
Not this year, but Moro has looked similar several times this year already. We've got a lot of snow Thankfully! Shows the some of the West Face Routes including 'Modern Guilt'.
spectreman

Trad climber
Jan 24, 2019 - 07:48pm PT
Is it possible to hike out from the West Face of Moro or do you have to climb out? If, for example, I were to rap Modern Guilt on a recon mission and TR solo the pitches on my way down, could I then hike back out?
shylock

Social climber
mb
Jan 25, 2019 - 08:22am PT
Iíve done that exact thing a couple times. The gulley to the left goes ok. Itís doable but itís not super fun. Best to just show up with a 1000 ft of rope :)
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2019 - 03:14pm PT
Hey Daniel, he explicitly states in the squirrel creek guide that you shouldnít walk around on top of the cliff, I.e. to setup a tr. your comment that all routes are toprope-able makes it sound like you can walk to the top to do so... just doin my part with nothin but bad weather and time down here :) .
Mind your own business, don't be a weather sissy and get back to climbing! I deleted that sentence, I haven't read the squirrel creek guide intro yet but I have walked to the top of it. Oops.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2019 - 01:15pm PT
The Danland guys added some more text descriptions to their mini-guide so I updated the PDF

http://www.sekiclimbing.com/danland.html



I also updated my truck ('cause I'm a poser) so you can find me and say hi next time you visit the best part of Sierra :)

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