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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 29, 2015 - 02:24pm PT
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I can attest to the dangers of taking rappers lightly. My condolences.
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Matt's
climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 02:42pm PT
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My 2 cents:
No matter how many rap stations are added, accidents will continue to occur on the RA rap route. There is a long distance to go down, and slow/inexperienced parties will often be doing this in the dead of night, onsight. In the height of the climbing season, there are people descending the route by headlamp pretty much every night.
If the real goal is to make climbing royal arches safer-- chop the whole rappel route, and force people to walk off.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
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I think Matt could have a point here. Werner says there have been accidents on the N. Dome gully. I don't doubt it, although I got up it once and down several times without incident. Not fun no matter what. So would we have more or fewer accidents with a parade of noobs down N.Dome gully? We'll never know.
BAd
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
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If the real goal is to make climbing royal arches safer-- chop the whole rappel route, and force people to walk off. -Matt
That's just the silliest thing.
I think Matt could have a point here. -BAd
Not a valid one.
Climbers beginner to advanced need to keep in mind the serious affair rappeling is. Always.
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Matt's
climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 03:10pm PT
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That was my point hfcs-- rappelling is serious and dangerous. All this talk of changing the anchors will not change this.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Jan 29, 2015 - 03:12pm PT
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Sad news indeed....I did not know Cody, but every time I saw him at Metalmark he had Stoke.
Young and strong....two attributes I wish I still had.
The photos Paul took were from the last Tollhouse Faceoff.
A beautiful sunset. It was the last time I saw him outside.
My sincere condolences to his family and all his close friends.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
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This is my topo of the rap route.
It sounds like Tony is proposing adding an anchor 90' or so below the big tree at (15).
It might help somebody, but be sure there is a series of anchors within 90' of each other below that also.
Another option would be to place a bolted anchor right of the tree, directly above the 5.2 downclimb corner.
Then people should rap down the corner instead of the slab below the tree.
Many people are unsure about solo downclimbing this corner.
Another option would be to put a sign on the tree: "rappel down the corner, not the face".
There are several areas where the risk is increased, but a person could also die by going past any anchor and going off the end of the rope.
The places which I think have increased risk are:
 finding (3). My first trip down, I went past it and had to batman back up the rope.
reaching (4). I do it by rapping to a corner and downclimbing 15' to the anchor on a dying tree. There is also a bolted anchor out to the left, but if you use it, your rope could hang up in blocks up and right of you.
(11). The ant tree, first non-bolted anchor. Might be confusing to some people.
(12). Short and not directly visible from (11). One time, Roger and I didn't see it and continued down and left in the ramp to a small tree anchor. Then down to a wet ramp with a poor bush anchor.
(13). Not visible from 12. Somewhat visible in the daylight from the edge of the wall when on rap. Hard to commit to in the dark.
(14). Sometimes there are slings around a tree, sometimes people just downclimb the 5.0.
(15). The big tree with slings. If you go straight down the face below, I'm not sure how far it is to the closest anchor. This is where Meghan had her accident. Instead, I just downclimb the corner. It's 5.2.
(17). This anchor is not immediately visible from above. And you reach it by downclimbing a 4th class slab.
(18). I placed this anchor (my own bolts and hangers). Last spring I heard one of hangers was missing, so I put a new one on it.
(21). I have trouble finding this anchor in the daylight. Usually I downclimb to the top of the first pitch chimney and rap from slings on a tree. Ed mentioned using the anchor for Astrospam, but this anchor may be difficult to locate from above.
Many of these risks occur because there is no direct line of sight to the next anchor.
These can't be solved by adding new bolted anchors, unless you want to create 20' rappels.
One possibility would be to bolt tags or plaques/arrows to the wall in the line to the next anchor.
And as Matt said, even if the anchors were all easy to find, people could still die if they go past them, or make some error like not having the rope fully through their ATC, or not clipping into the anchor correctly.
My personal theory on rappel safety is to keep it simple, and reduce the number of steps involved. I don't use a prusik backup or knots in the ends of the ropes. I don't simulrap. I take care when pulling the rope to send it in a particular direction. I prefer using a single 60m biweave rope to rap this route.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 29, 2015 - 04:23pm PT
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One possibility would be to bolt tags or plaques/arrows to the wall in the line to the next anchor.
I like this idea. Anyone seen quality ways of doing this? Ideas? Am willing/likely to do the work. I'm quite willing to spend some money on good attractive durable pointers.
Offhand I'm thinking of something like the USGS markers Not needed at every station of course. But where useful I think I'd like to instal something.
Matt is correct to a degree for sure. Nothing can be done to completely mitigate rappel risks and mistakes. Yet if we can make this more straightforward for tired and benighted parties I don't doubt it can save a life. Or at least get folks back to the patio in time for some Pizza. Worthwhile on such a heavily used line.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 04:28pm PT
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It should be possible to get aluminum signs with reflective arrows, normally used on streets. $5.35 + shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/NMC-TMA5G-Traffic-Graphic-Aluminum/dp/B00700RY0M/
My partner Bob also has special reflective paint and tiny glass spheres which imbed in the paint. We put these on the top surfaces of the hangers, so they can reflect light from above. We are not sure how durable they are, though.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 29, 2015 - 04:38pm PT
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^ that rap route looks insane. It's 100 times easier to get off el Cap. If the walkoff is worse, then this route is much more serious than it looks.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 04:43pm PT
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that rap route looks insane
It's not.
It's piss easy rappel route.
Sometimes people just make mistakes with their setups, gear or ropes getting stuck above.
You people over dramatize this stuff.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jan 29, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
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You got my vote Tony. That topo worked for me Clint.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Jan 29, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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I'm sure many are encouraged by the fact that experienced climbers are considering if anything can be done to alleviate more deaths and injuries in the descent.
But back to the Thread. A climber has died. A climber that has loved ones, family and friends. The shock of loss and grief is something everyone experiences differently. I pray that each person be comforted tonight and for as long as it takes to process this loss of a very special person. Peace, Lynne
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 29, 2015 - 06:12pm PT
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Lynne: Thank you for your point. I agree. I suggest someone put up a thread devoted to making Royal Arch descents safer, with Cody's accident as a significant motivator. A worthy memorial.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 29, 2015 - 06:25pm PT
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For anyone especially Cody's family I truly hope my statements have not caused any extra hardship in a time for you that is beyond heartbreaking. Myself and I am certain others are wanting to find some way to spare others the same.
It is how I wish to express my deepest condolences.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:26am PT
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Last night I bumped into Eric Swanson, Cody's partner that tragic day, and got the details....
They were using double ropes and had just made the first rapp. They made a single rope rap to avoid getting their rope stuck in the notorious bushes just a few raps down from the top. I wasn't too clear on what happened next, but Eric said he wasn't paying attention when Cody began to descend again, first. He said that one end of the rope slipped through Cody's ATC and the rope went whizzing through the anchor and Cody fell with both ropes. So, I am speculating that Cody may have had the other rope coiled on him, leaving both ropes still tied together, but perhaps he grabbed onto the wrong tail.
Eric was stuck at the belay for about an hour and a half until a following party came down and he rapped with them.
Cody's mother has been at the gym nearly every day since the accident to meet Cody's friend's and the rest of our tribe. She is adamant that everyone keep climbing because Cody would chew everyone's asses for not keeping on enjoying the passion that they all shared. Cody's brother and brother's girlfriend are now members at the gym and Stacey, his mother, plan on becoming climbers as they are learning about the man that everyone loved being around. We have a strong tribe here in Fresno and as Stacey says, it has helped her immensely in her grieving process. She wants to become the "fixture at the gym" that Cody was.
Thanks for the support. :)
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Jan 30, 2015 - 11:14am PT
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That just made me really sad.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 04:57pm PT
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Thanks for the update, Paul S. Like a number of other experienced climbers in recent years, a moments inattention, a little extra confusion with the gear....
Many of us are lucky to still be alive, but more lucky to have lived and climbed and climbed with people like Cody.
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