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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jan 29, 2015 - 08:15am PT
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totally tragic news. my condolences to family and friends in the metalmark community. sounds like he was a great guy. ss
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jan 29, 2015 - 10:53am PT
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Tony,
I came down the rappel route a bunch in 2011 when I was working up there. That rap station out there in the middle of nowhere almost got me also. I was going to the tree but I was looking at that anchor and past the tree I went. I caught one strand with two fingers. I never used two ropes. I always came down just using one rope, I was always alone and couldn't take the chance of getting the rope hung up. I think it is 22 raps using a single rope. I replaced a few bolts at some of the stations with double ring hangers if needed. Clint gave me a topo showing all the stations when using single rope. With a 70m rope there is no downclimbing, third class or otherwise. I saw some other off route stations but did not upgrade those for fear of leading someone off route. Also that summer I upgraded the walk off. I hauled the gear up the NDG and took the climbers trail from the Column over to the RA top out. The trail was overgrown and really hard to follow. When I cleared the brush field at the slabs there were old fire rings everywhere. It appeared as if a lot of folks lost the trail there and had to bivi. I left a large carin where the trail was and cut back the brush a couple feet clear over to the Column along the original trail. I think another station would be a great idea, or just remove that death trap station and maybe another one or two that tend to lead people astray.
My condolances to the family and frinds of Cody, so sad.
Roger Brown
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 29, 2015 - 10:57am PT
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I think another station would be a great idea, or just remove that death trap station and maybe another one or two that tend to lead people astray.
^^ Lets do this. Lets make a better rap for RA. Anyone who wants to do the work let me know I'll team up for a few days even and spring some dollars for it.
Seriously PM me and lets make it happen.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:09am PT
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I have everything needed except a plan and labor. I am available now till May, then from June till mid September I will be living in the Valley.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:15am PT
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PMd you.. call me.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:22am PT
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I wrote a response to a similar thread a while ago.. it's all so tragic that the same accident seems to repeat.
My sympathy to Cody's family and friends.
It is easy to get into the idea of moving fast and efficient down those raps. Once I had a very good friend land at one of the stances and start to get into setting up the next rap when I realized he had forgotten to clip in... I pointed it out to him very calmly. This is not the result of inexperience, but of a simple lapse which could happen to anyone... a check list is good to keep in mind and used for every station.
On those last raps off the "ramp" that leads from the chimney to the start of the route that leads to the pendulum: I was exploring with Linda up there once late one day, we walked all the way back to the top of the chimney. The climb Astro Spam has a bolted belay station to the (climber's) right of the chimney start of Royal Arches (to your left when you are looking down). It is a short rappel to the start of the route.
In my mind this is a hugely better way off than wandering around looking for the right tree... I've been there before, and almost made the wrong choice many times. Given that you cross the "ramp" looking for the third class descent to the appropriate but confusing way off, it seemed to me that time that rapping Astro Spam was a much better bet, and much less confusing.
I usually walk off the NDG, but it is because I don't like a bunch of people above me on those raps...
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:25am PT
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Derek, I'm in.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:34am PT
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Great details Roger and, as you found out, it is dangerous. The advent of the use of 70 meter ropes has changed a lot of how rapps are done. Older rapp stations used 50's (the RA raps are set for 50's and it is easy to rapp past the stations, especially in the dark so one has to be extremely diligent in locating when using longer ropes which just about everyone does.)and most newer rapps are set for 60's. So setting for the shortest rapp rope lengths makes sense. I just moved out to Bishop otherwise I'd be up there now putting in the bolts. It should be done asap and I wish I'd been more conscientious about this and asked you Roger when you were in the Valley last summer to do it. I meant to. Climbski, are you able to get there soon? How about Clint? I'm really bummed as I've been involved in bolt replacement and anchor placements and let this slip. If anyone has a kit and is going to the valley soon, please put some in!
Edit: Paul, if you and Derek could do this asap I, for one, would be so grateful! I am sad......
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:42am PT
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My earliest availability would be Feb 8th or after, weather permitting. Would be glad to do as an overnighter if needed in order to take time to do it right. Paul I'm waiting to hear back from Roger too since he already has recent familiarity and stuff to fit the route with it sounds like.
Regardless if this would have helped in this tragedy I'm sure it can help in the future.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:45am PT
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Very sad.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:52am PT
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Roger.....Re-read your post. Can you do this this weekend? I may just drive over and do it this weekend if no-one is available. The nice weather has people climbing RA a lot. I've got everything needed and can do it my self but would love help.
Edit: Ed, the problem is the rap as outlined in the guide. People see the rap off in the guide and go that way.
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CCT
Trad climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
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The woman who rapped off the ends of her rope in that location was using a prussick-style back-up, in a rather creative way. Fatigue and low glucose, and the poor decision-making that goes along with it, played a big role. Luckily she survived. However, it almost certainly would not have happened if there had been a rap station reachable with 60m ropes.
Thank you to those of you who are making it happen.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Jan 29, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
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Sharing in grief for the loss of Cody and special blessings to his mother and father. Impossibly hard to lose your son or daughter at such a sparkling age.
Thank you guys Roger and Tony and Derek. That rap has been difficult just as described for many parties, especially since by the time you get down there it can be dark:30.
This fix is great contribution to a classic route. pm sent
Edit: also thanks to Paul for starting this thread. I had heard about it elsewhere. RL is right about backing up the rappel with a prussik and end knots. People get all over me for taking the time to do it but I do every time and it has saved my sweet ass in a big way
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jan 29, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
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Sorry to hear about this.
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
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My deepest sympathies to Darrel and family.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 12:30pm PT
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Many of the surrounding trees have old tat on them that should be cut off as well to prevent any future confusion.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 29, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
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Perhaps reflective tape/markers occasionally even pointers at anchors for those unfortunate enough to be descending in the dark for the first time. To really do this right takes some planning and time, Probably more than one go.Should be a rewarding fun/hardwork project in about my favorite place on earth.
That does not mean doing a quick trip to clean up offroute anchors is a bad idea. Probably the best way to start planning. Roger has the gear needed to do a high quality retrofit. Perhaps bypassing problem areas and make this well fit for both single 60's or double ropers.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 01:02pm PT
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I agree that other things can be done but I can take care of the rap station which I think is the key problem as it relates to the guide. People unaware and using the guide who decide to go down from tree rap will pass directly over new station. Unfortunately not all watch supertopo but rely on the guide.
Edit: Roger uses largely ASCA (Fixe ss double ring 3/8"). There may need to be discussion as to whether ASCA gear can be used to retro. I can provide and install same gear without ASCA stamp and it will be quality install. The rap install at that place would be between the trees and the station. Anyway, I think Roger, Clint or Greg Barnes could give reference to my bolting skills.
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climbinginchico
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
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That's so sad- condolences to his friends and family.
I had to rap off RA on Saturday in the dark after being slower than expected due to a combination of just coming back after two shoulder reconstructions and getting stuck behind a few n00b parties. Luckily my partner and I were prepared with headlamps and were super cautious with double checking each other, that we had stopper knots tied, and which rope we were pulling each time we went to start a new rap. It's too easy to have one little mistake or moment of complacency become costly.
I completely agree that some of the old tat needs to be cleaned up- there are lots of instances of old webbing on trees/bushes not too far away from bolted anchors- pretty obvious they were left at night when someone couldn't find the bolts, or someone was too lazy to look for a minute.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
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Tony, there's no issue with using ASCA hardware for this. After all, the original rap stations were retrobolts decades after RA was climbed, and then more intermediate stations were added late '90s/early 2000's, and it's not like the rap stations are retrobolting free climbs. No one wants to see repeated accidents on a dedicated rappel route that is often rappelled for the first time at night.
Condolences to all those that knew Cody.
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