Discussion Topic |
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 28, 2015 - 12:27am PT
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FRESNO, Calif. (KMPH) - The family of 24-year-old Cody Byers of Fresno is mourning his death.
The man who had a passion for rock climbing and for nature, died doing what he loved.
Yosemite Park Rangers say Byers fell several hundred feet while making his way down the Royal Arches, which is a popular spot for climbers.
The tragic accident is still under investigation but rangers say it appears to have been an accident, possibly caused by his rope becoming unclipped.
Rangers say the 24-year old was climbing with one other friend.
The family declined an on-camera interview, but told KMPH Fox 26 News after serving in the U.S. Army Byers was set to graduate this May with a computer degree from Fresno City College.
We at KMPH Fox 26 News want to offer our condolences to the Byers family.
http://www.kmph-kfre.com/story/27958165/fresno-rock-climber-dies-inside-yosemite-national-park
Edits: In post 85 Paul Souza reported, They were using double ropes and had just made the first rapp. They made a single rope rap to avoid getting their rope stuck in the notorious bushes just a few raps down from the top. I wasn't too clear on what happened next, but Eric said he wasn't paying attention when Cody began to descend again, first. He said that one end of the rope slipped through Cody's ATC and the rope went whizzing through the anchor and Cody fell with both ropes. So, I am speculating that Cody may have had the other rope coiled on him, leaving both ropes still tied together, but perhaps he grabbed onto the wrong tail.
Eric was stuck at the belay for about an hour and a half until a following party came down and he rapped with them.
In post 92 LuckyNeck wrote: It was Cody's fourth time down the raps. He knew where he was going. There's nothing wrong with the rappels. I cannot say what caused him to let one end of the rope slip through his belay device, but then knowing that doesn't bring my friend back.
In post 42, Jules1985 reported that he was in the next party above Cody and rapped down to the stranded partner. We rappelled the route shortly after the tragedy happened and were able to stay with his climbing partner for a short while until the rescue team came in. We are so deeply sorry and are sending our prayers and thoughts to his family, friends and climbing partner!
The Fresno Bee newspaper had a nice follow up story on February 5.
http://www.fresnobee.com/2015/02/04/4364342_fresno-man-who-died-rock-climbing.html?rh=1
A memorial gathering will be held at MetalMark in Fresno on February 8.
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fat-n-sassy
Social climber
San Francity, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 12:48am PT
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Terrible. We climbed some when I was living in Fresno. He was a great guy. Very sad news.
RIP
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Jan 28, 2015 - 03:16am PT
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hey there say, ... oh my... oh my... :( this is awful news... so very sad to hear this... :(
my deep condolences to his family and loved ones... oh my...
:(
prayers and more prayers for his family at this hard sad time... :(
as they must now face...
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crankster
Trad climber
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Jan 28, 2015 - 05:28am PT
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Bad stuff. RIP.
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Climberdude
Trad climber
Clovis, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 06:21am PT
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RiP Cody. Condolences to family and friends. When I said hello to him in the gym recently, I did not realize that would be the last hello.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 28, 2015 - 06:31am PT
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My sincere condolences to Cody's family.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jan 28, 2015 - 06:33am PT
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Never met him but that smile says it all. Condolences to family and friends.
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Jan 28, 2015 - 07:34am PT
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Very sorry to hear the news
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Trouble
climber
Fresno, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 09:18am PT
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Sad to hear. My deepest and most sincere condolences to the family and friends of Cody.
Those raps have been the site of a few accidents if I recall correctly. I had to take some extra time there years ago when I got off route...sorry to hear this.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jan 28, 2015 - 09:41am PT
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Sorry to hear.
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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Jan 28, 2015 - 09:42am PT
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Cody will be missed. Those that knew him were always in for a fun time with him. He never gave up and always had a quick comment that would leave you laughing. He drove like a bat out of hell and was always willing to help out. He loved to climb and will be missed by many.
Very sad news......
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Happiegrrrl2
Trad climber
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Jan 28, 2015 - 10:10am PT
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I didn't know the man, but can feel the grief his friends and family are going through. Very sorry for your loss.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 10:15am PT
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There will be a memorial gathering at Metalmark on February 8 at 6:30 p.m. In the meantime, the Fresno climbing community is hurting badly. Cody shared a lot of excellent, safe adventures with many here.
John
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Under Achiever
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Jan 28, 2015 - 10:29am PT
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What a terrible loss. Condolences to Cody's family and friends.
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Cogged
Social climber
Merced, Ca
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Jan 28, 2015 - 10:40am PT
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Cody was a great guy. He was always psyched for climbing and life.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Jan 28, 2015 - 10:44am PT
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This is so sad....
My condolences to his Family and many Friends.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Jan 28, 2015 - 11:05am PT
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Condolences to his family and friends. Though I didn't know him, we climbed a couple boulder problems at the gym. Came across as a friendly, good natured, guy who loved climbing.
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Ward Trotter
Trad climber
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Jan 28, 2015 - 11:16am PT
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Deepest sympathies to his family and friends and to the Fresno climbing community in general.
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Matt's
climber
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Jan 28, 2015 - 11:20am PT
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Condolences...
Was this a rappelling accident?
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2015 - 11:46am PT
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Yes, He was descending the rappel route according to the link. We may find out further details, once his partner is able to talk about it.
I never roped up with him, but he was fun to watch climb and listen to. It is a small and close community of climbers here. Cody was a very fun part of it.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 28, 2015 - 11:47am PT
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My condolences to Cody's family and friends.
So sad.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jan 28, 2015 - 11:50am PT
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My condolences to family and friends. What a tragic loss.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Jan 28, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
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Cody was always stoked. He used to come early to the gym as part of the morning crew, so we shared some laughs and some stories, but I never really knew him well. His posse was always game for adventure and his death has shocked the close knit Metalmark Gym family. A really sad day for our local community.
I know others will eventually share details of the accident so we can all learn more for our own knowledge and safety, but my understanding is that he tragically rapped off the ends of his rope(s) on the Royal Arches rappels. A terrible loss.
My deepest condolences to so many who knew him well.
Scott
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CCT
Trad climber
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Jan 28, 2015 - 12:11pm PT
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So sorry to hear about this. He looks like he lived a fun life.
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Jan 28, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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Sorry to hear this. RIP Cody....Condolences to the Family
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couchmaster
climber
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Jan 28, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
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I keep hearing of folks getting killed on the Royal Arches rappel. It seems like many more than were ever hurt or killed on the nasty North Dome Gully walk off. Could anyone speak about if that is true or not? Is there something which needs to be fixed on the rap? Like maybe remove it and stick in a rap or 2 on the walk off descent instead where it's nasty? I've never done the RA rappel. Last trip down we linked RA and Crest Jewel and I thought maybe I'd finally get too rap it but buddy wanted to hike down.
...anyway, condolences to Cody's family and friends, it sucks and I didn't know Cody but what makes it worse to me is knowing that it seems like it is a reoccuring theme on this rap line.
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 28, 2015 - 12:27pm PT
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Sincere condolences to family & friends. A loss to our climbing community that will be felt.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 12:33pm PT
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Very sad indeed. As with everyone, my condolensces to his family and friends. Always sad to see someone with so much ahead of them taken away. It makes an older fart like me feel very lucky to have survived my bad judgment and close calls. I started climbing at 13 and leading stuff at 14, so you know there was a bunch of that.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Jan 28, 2015 - 02:44pm PT
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Deeply sad for Cody's passing. What a smile.
Many thoughts and prayers for his family and friends.
Susan
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Trouble
climber
Fresno, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 03:46pm PT
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@Couchmaster. I have only done the rappel route twice. I remember there is a big tree nearer to the bottom with a bunch of slings around it. If you rap strait down from there (instead of traversing the ledge system) you end up at the ends of the ropes on a blank wall. However, there are two crappy anchors on that wall below the tree. If my memory serves me well... One had two 1/4" rivets or bolts with some sketchy hangars. The other had a one 3/8" bolt with a decent hangar and the other a 1/4" rivet or bolt with a sketchy hangar. I opted for the latter. I stopped my rappel, tied some knots in the ends of the ropes and ran/swung/reached with all I had to make that anchor. The second time I did the rap route I didn't make that same mistake. I'm pretty sure the topo clearly tells you to traverse the ledges.
I don't know if Cody's accident happened here, but there was an accident in the exact place I am describing as documented on Friends of YOSAR years ago.
http://friendsofyosar.org/rescues/missions/11-20-07_Arches.html
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Bascuela
Trad climber
Fresno, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 05:29pm PT
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Always a smiling face at Metalmark. A sad day
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 05:36pm PT
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I've done the rapps on the RA a dozen times over the past 5 years, including nearly a week ago or so at night. It is pretty straight forward once you do it with someone who knows it. I don't think anything could be done to improve it other than upgrading a few of the bolts with proper hangers and replace a few bolts for added peace of mind.
I've always done the rapps with a 70m rope, so I don't know how close a person may get to the ends of their ropes if they were using a 60m rope. IIRC, the RA rapp route was established for 50m ropes. Please correct me if I'm wrong on that.
I know for a fact that Cody had done the RA at least once, possibly twice before this including the rapps.
I appreciate Cragman's wisdom of using a walk off if there is one. I came very close to going off the ends once when we stretched a rapp on WA Column. Last year when we did the RA, I had come down on a nice ledge and went off rappel without even clipping in. Yikes! No matter how OCD I am about checking everything 10 times before unclipping, mistakes can still happen.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 08:59pm PT
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What a sad, sad report to hear. My deepest condolences to the friends and family of this young climber.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 28, 2015 - 09:03pm PT
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Cragman's wisdom of using a walk off if there is one.
His wisdom is useless.
People have died going down that North Dome Gully.
Several had almost died but where injured and luckily survived in that NDG.
Still others got lost, ledged out going the wrong way, along with other shenanigans and had to be rescued .....
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jan 28, 2015 - 09:36pm PT
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People have been worked rappeling off the two trees straight down instead of using the ramp marked "3rd" in the Reid guide. If you look close you can see a "165?" Directly below the "3rd" class ramp in the guide. If you rap down directly to the two mid face bolts at the second to last rappel station on anything shorter then two 70's you will be 12' to15' short of the bolts. A women rapped off the end of her rope there and two friends have been beknighted going that way. Jaywood and I rapped there with two 60's and had to rap off two f?@&ked nuts to the bolts. The rap needs to be fixed! Unfortunately it's in the guide. My recommendation is to add two bolts above that can be accessed using 50's. That way reaching the bolts is ensured. Knots should always be tied to rope ends but at least you won't keep going looking for something beyond reach.
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Jules1985
Trad climber
Germany
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Jan 28, 2015 - 10:51pm PT
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We rappelled the route shortly after the tragedy happened and were able to stay with his climbing partner for a short while until the rescue team came in. We are so deeply sorry and are sending our prayers and thoughts to his family, friends and climbing partner!
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CCT
Trad climber
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Jan 28, 2015 - 11:30pm PT
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I like the way you think, wstmrnclmr. A rap station at that location could prevent an easy mistake from turning deadly on a popular route.
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jan 29, 2015 - 06:53am PT
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Very, very sad news. My condolences to his friends and family.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Jan 29, 2015 - 07:03am PT
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I've come down the NDG countless times, a few in the dark. If you stay high all the way over to the gully proper before turning down it is fairly straight forward. I never rapped the Arches, but I only did that route a couple of times and generally was topping out on the east side of the column.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Jan 29, 2015 - 08:15am PT
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totally tragic news. my condolences to family and friends in the metalmark community. sounds like he was a great guy. ss
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jan 29, 2015 - 10:53am PT
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Tony,
I came down the rappel route a bunch in 2011 when I was working up there. That rap station out there in the middle of nowhere almost got me also. I was going to the tree but I was looking at that anchor and past the tree I went. I caught one strand with two fingers. I never used two ropes. I always came down just using one rope, I was always alone and couldn't take the chance of getting the rope hung up. I think it is 22 raps using a single rope. I replaced a few bolts at some of the stations with double ring hangers if needed. Clint gave me a topo showing all the stations when using single rope. With a 70m rope there is no downclimbing, third class or otherwise. I saw some other off route stations but did not upgrade those for fear of leading someone off route. Also that summer I upgraded the walk off. I hauled the gear up the NDG and took the climbers trail from the Column over to the RA top out. The trail was overgrown and really hard to follow. When I cleared the brush field at the slabs there were old fire rings everywhere. It appeared as if a lot of folks lost the trail there and had to bivi. I left a large carin where the trail was and cut back the brush a couple feet clear over to the Column along the original trail. I think another station would be a great idea, or just remove that death trap station and maybe another one or two that tend to lead people astray.
My condolances to the family and frinds of Cody, so sad.
Roger Brown
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 29, 2015 - 10:57am PT
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I think another station would be a great idea, or just remove that death trap station and maybe another one or two that tend to lead people astray.
^^ Lets do this. Lets make a better rap for RA. Anyone who wants to do the work let me know I'll team up for a few days even and spring some dollars for it.
Seriously PM me and lets make it happen.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:09am PT
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I have everything needed except a plan and labor. I am available now till May, then from June till mid September I will be living in the Valley.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:15am PT
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PMd you.. call me.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:22am PT
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I wrote a response to a similar thread a while ago.. it's all so tragic that the same accident seems to repeat.
My sympathy to Cody's family and friends.
It is easy to get into the idea of moving fast and efficient down those raps. Once I had a very good friend land at one of the stances and start to get into setting up the next rap when I realized he had forgotten to clip in... I pointed it out to him very calmly. This is not the result of inexperience, but of a simple lapse which could happen to anyone... a check list is good to keep in mind and used for every station.
On those last raps off the "ramp" that leads from the chimney to the start of the route that leads to the pendulum: I was exploring with Linda up there once late one day, we walked all the way back to the top of the chimney. The climb Astro Spam has a bolted belay station to the (climber's) right of the chimney start of Royal Arches (to your left when you are looking down). It is a short rappel to the start of the route.
In my mind this is a hugely better way off than wandering around looking for the right tree... I've been there before, and almost made the wrong choice many times. Given that you cross the "ramp" looking for the third class descent to the appropriate but confusing way off, it seemed to me that time that rapping Astro Spam was a much better bet, and much less confusing.
I usually walk off the NDG, but it is because I don't like a bunch of people above me on those raps...
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:25am PT
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Derek, I'm in.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:34am PT
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Great details Roger and, as you found out, it is dangerous. The advent of the use of 70 meter ropes has changed a lot of how rapps are done. Older rapp stations used 50's (the RA raps are set for 50's and it is easy to rapp past the stations, especially in the dark so one has to be extremely diligent in locating when using longer ropes which just about everyone does.)and most newer rapps are set for 60's. So setting for the shortest rapp rope lengths makes sense. I just moved out to Bishop otherwise I'd be up there now putting in the bolts. It should be done asap and I wish I'd been more conscientious about this and asked you Roger when you were in the Valley last summer to do it. I meant to. Climbski, are you able to get there soon? How about Clint? I'm really bummed as I've been involved in bolt replacement and anchor placements and let this slip. If anyone has a kit and is going to the valley soon, please put some in!
Edit: Paul, if you and Derek could do this asap I, for one, would be so grateful! I am sad......
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:42am PT
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My earliest availability would be Feb 8th or after, weather permitting. Would be glad to do as an overnighter if needed in order to take time to do it right. Paul I'm waiting to hear back from Roger too since he already has recent familiarity and stuff to fit the route with it sounds like.
Regardless if this would have helped in this tragedy I'm sure it can help in the future.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:45am PT
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Very sad.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 11:52am PT
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Roger.....Re-read your post. Can you do this this weekend? I may just drive over and do it this weekend if no-one is available. The nice weather has people climbing RA a lot. I've got everything needed and can do it my self but would love help.
Edit: Ed, the problem is the rap as outlined in the guide. People see the rap off in the guide and go that way.
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CCT
Trad climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
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The woman who rapped off the ends of her rope in that location was using a prussick-style back-up, in a rather creative way. Fatigue and low glucose, and the poor decision-making that goes along with it, played a big role. Luckily she survived. However, it almost certainly would not have happened if there had been a rap station reachable with 60m ropes.
Thank you to those of you who are making it happen.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Jan 29, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
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Sharing in grief for the loss of Cody and special blessings to his mother and father. Impossibly hard to lose your son or daughter at such a sparkling age.
Thank you guys Roger and Tony and Derek. That rap has been difficult just as described for many parties, especially since by the time you get down there it can be dark:30.
This fix is great contribution to a classic route. pm sent
Edit: also thanks to Paul for starting this thread. I had heard about it elsewhere. RL is right about backing up the rappel with a prussik and end knots. People get all over me for taking the time to do it but I do every time and it has saved my sweet ass in a big way
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jan 29, 2015 - 12:14pm PT
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Sorry to hear about this.
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
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My deepest sympathies to Darrel and family.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 12:30pm PT
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Many of the surrounding trees have old tat on them that should be cut off as well to prevent any future confusion.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 29, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
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Perhaps reflective tape/markers occasionally even pointers at anchors for those unfortunate enough to be descending in the dark for the first time. To really do this right takes some planning and time, Probably more than one go.Should be a rewarding fun/hardwork project in about my favorite place on earth.
That does not mean doing a quick trip to clean up offroute anchors is a bad idea. Probably the best way to start planning. Roger has the gear needed to do a high quality retrofit. Perhaps bypassing problem areas and make this well fit for both single 60's or double ropers.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 01:02pm PT
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I agree that other things can be done but I can take care of the rap station which I think is the key problem as it relates to the guide. People unaware and using the guide who decide to go down from tree rap will pass directly over new station. Unfortunately not all watch supertopo but rely on the guide.
Edit: Roger uses largely ASCA (Fixe ss double ring 3/8"). There may need to be discussion as to whether ASCA gear can be used to retro. I can provide and install same gear without ASCA stamp and it will be quality install. The rap install at that place would be between the trees and the station. Anyway, I think Roger, Clint or Greg Barnes could give reference to my bolting skills.
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climbinginchico
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 01:05pm PT
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That's so sad- condolences to his friends and family.
I had to rap off RA on Saturday in the dark after being slower than expected due to a combination of just coming back after two shoulder reconstructions and getting stuck behind a few n00b parties. Luckily my partner and I were prepared with headlamps and were super cautious with double checking each other, that we had stopper knots tied, and which rope we were pulling each time we went to start a new rap. It's too easy to have one little mistake or moment of complacency become costly.
I completely agree that some of the old tat needs to be cleaned up- there are lots of instances of old webbing on trees/bushes not too far away from bolted anchors- pretty obvious they were left at night when someone couldn't find the bolts, or someone was too lazy to look for a minute.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
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Tony, there's no issue with using ASCA hardware for this. After all, the original rap stations were retrobolts decades after RA was climbed, and then more intermediate stations were added late '90s/early 2000's, and it's not like the rap stations are retrobolting free climbs. No one wants to see repeated accidents on a dedicated rappel route that is often rappelled for the first time at night.
Condolences to all those that knew Cody.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jan 29, 2015 - 02:24pm PT
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I can attest to the dangers of taking rappers lightly. My condolences.
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Matt's
climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 02:42pm PT
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My 2 cents:
No matter how many rap stations are added, accidents will continue to occur on the RA rap route. There is a long distance to go down, and slow/inexperienced parties will often be doing this in the dead of night, onsight. In the height of the climbing season, there are people descending the route by headlamp pretty much every night.
If the real goal is to make climbing royal arches safer-- chop the whole rappel route, and force people to walk off.
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
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I think Matt could have a point here. Werner says there have been accidents on the N. Dome gully. I don't doubt it, although I got up it once and down several times without incident. Not fun no matter what. So would we have more or fewer accidents with a parade of noobs down N.Dome gully? We'll never know.
BAd
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
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If the real goal is to make climbing royal arches safer-- chop the whole rappel route, and force people to walk off. -Matt
That's just the silliest thing.
I think Matt could have a point here. -BAd
Not a valid one.
Climbers beginner to advanced need to keep in mind the serious affair rappeling is. Always.
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Matt's
climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 03:10pm PT
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That was my point hfcs-- rappelling is serious and dangerous. All this talk of changing the anchors will not change this.
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Jan 29, 2015 - 03:12pm PT
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Sad news indeed....I did not know Cody, but every time I saw him at Metalmark he had Stoke.
Young and strong....two attributes I wish I still had.
The photos Paul took were from the last Tollhouse Faceoff.
A beautiful sunset. It was the last time I saw him outside.
My sincere condolences to his family and all his close friends.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
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This is my topo of the rap route.
It sounds like Tony is proposing adding an anchor 90' or so below the big tree at (15).
It might help somebody, but be sure there is a series of anchors within 90' of each other below that also.
Another option would be to place a bolted anchor right of the tree, directly above the 5.2 downclimb corner.
Then people should rap down the corner instead of the slab below the tree.
Many people are unsure about solo downclimbing this corner.
Another option would be to put a sign on the tree: "rappel down the corner, not the face".
There are several areas where the risk is increased, but a person could also die by going past any anchor and going off the end of the rope.
The places which I think have increased risk are:
 finding (3). My first trip down, I went past it and had to batman back up the rope.
reaching (4). I do it by rapping to a corner and downclimbing 15' to the anchor on a dying tree. There is also a bolted anchor out to the left, but if you use it, your rope could hang up in blocks up and right of you.
(11). The ant tree, first non-bolted anchor. Might be confusing to some people.
(12). Short and not directly visible from (11). One time, Roger and I didn't see it and continued down and left in the ramp to a small tree anchor. Then down to a wet ramp with a poor bush anchor.
(13). Not visible from 12. Somewhat visible in the daylight from the edge of the wall when on rap. Hard to commit to in the dark.
(14). Sometimes there are slings around a tree, sometimes people just downclimb the 5.0.
(15). The big tree with slings. If you go straight down the face below, I'm not sure how far it is to the closest anchor. This is where Meghan had her accident. Instead, I just downclimb the corner. It's 5.2.
(17). This anchor is not immediately visible from above. And you reach it by downclimbing a 4th class slab.
(18). I placed this anchor (my own bolts and hangers). Last spring I heard one of hangers was missing, so I put a new one on it.
(21). I have trouble finding this anchor in the daylight. Usually I downclimb to the top of the first pitch chimney and rap from slings on a tree. Ed mentioned using the anchor for Astrospam, but this anchor may be difficult to locate from above.
Many of these risks occur because there is no direct line of sight to the next anchor.
These can't be solved by adding new bolted anchors, unless you want to create 20' rappels.
One possibility would be to bolt tags or plaques/arrows to the wall in the line to the next anchor.
And as Matt said, even if the anchors were all easy to find, people could still die if they go past them, or make some error like not having the rope fully through their ATC, or not clipping into the anchor correctly.
My personal theory on rappel safety is to keep it simple, and reduce the number of steps involved. I don't use a prusik backup or knots in the ends of the ropes. I don't simulrap. I take care when pulling the rope to send it in a particular direction. I prefer using a single 60m biweave rope to rap this route.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 29, 2015 - 04:23pm PT
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One possibility would be to bolt tags or plaques/arrows to the wall in the line to the next anchor.
I like this idea. Anyone seen quality ways of doing this? Ideas? Am willing/likely to do the work. I'm quite willing to spend some money on good attractive durable pointers.
Offhand I'm thinking of something like the USGS markers Not needed at every station of course. But where useful I think I'd like to instal something.
Matt is correct to a degree for sure. Nothing can be done to completely mitigate rappel risks and mistakes. Yet if we can make this more straightforward for tired and benighted parties I don't doubt it can save a life. Or at least get folks back to the patio in time for some Pizza. Worthwhile on such a heavily used line.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 29, 2015 - 04:28pm PT
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It should be possible to get aluminum signs with reflective arrows, normally used on streets. $5.35 + shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/NMC-TMA5G-Traffic-Graphic-Aluminum/dp/B00700RY0M/
My partner Bob also has special reflective paint and tiny glass spheres which imbed in the paint. We put these on the top surfaces of the hangers, so they can reflect light from above. We are not sure how durable they are, though.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver, Colorado
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Jan 29, 2015 - 04:38pm PT
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^ that rap route looks insane. It's 100 times easier to get off el Cap. If the walkoff is worse, then this route is much more serious than it looks.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 29, 2015 - 04:43pm PT
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that rap route looks insane
It's not.
It's piss easy rappel route.
Sometimes people just make mistakes with their setups, gear or ropes getting stuck above.
You people over dramatize this stuff.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Jan 29, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
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You got my vote Tony. That topo worked for me Clint.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Jan 29, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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I'm sure many are encouraged by the fact that experienced climbers are considering if anything can be done to alleviate more deaths and injuries in the descent.
But back to the Thread. A climber has died. A climber that has loved ones, family and friends. The shock of loss and grief is something everyone experiences differently. I pray that each person be comforted tonight and for as long as it takes to process this loss of a very special person. Peace, Lynne
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jan 29, 2015 - 06:12pm PT
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Lynne: Thank you for your point. I agree. I suggest someone put up a thread devoted to making Royal Arch descents safer, with Cody's accident as a significant motivator. A worthy memorial.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Jan 29, 2015 - 06:25pm PT
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For anyone especially Cody's family I truly hope my statements have not caused any extra hardship in a time for you that is beyond heartbreaking. Myself and I am certain others are wanting to find some way to spare others the same.
It is how I wish to express my deepest condolences.
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Jan 30, 2015 - 10:26am PT
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Last night I bumped into Eric Swanson, Cody's partner that tragic day, and got the details....
They were using double ropes and had just made the first rapp. They made a single rope rap to avoid getting their rope stuck in the notorious bushes just a few raps down from the top. I wasn't too clear on what happened next, but Eric said he wasn't paying attention when Cody began to descend again, first. He said that one end of the rope slipped through Cody's ATC and the rope went whizzing through the anchor and Cody fell with both ropes. So, I am speculating that Cody may have had the other rope coiled on him, leaving both ropes still tied together, but perhaps he grabbed onto the wrong tail.
Eric was stuck at the belay for about an hour and a half until a following party came down and he rapped with them.
Cody's mother has been at the gym nearly every day since the accident to meet Cody's friend's and the rest of our tribe. She is adamant that everyone keep climbing because Cody would chew everyone's asses for not keeping on enjoying the passion that they all shared. Cody's brother and brother's girlfriend are now members at the gym and Stacey, his mother, plan on becoming climbers as they are learning about the man that everyone loved being around. We have a strong tribe here in Fresno and as Stacey says, it has helped her immensely in her grieving process. She wants to become the "fixture at the gym" that Cody was.
Thanks for the support. :)
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Jan 30, 2015 - 11:14am PT
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That just made me really sad.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2015 - 04:57pm PT
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Thanks for the update, Paul S. Like a number of other experienced climbers in recent years, a moments inattention, a little extra confusion with the gear....
Many of us are lucky to still be alive, but more lucky to have lived and climbed and climbed with people like Cody.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Jan 30, 2015 - 05:19pm PT
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That certainly brought tears to my eyes.
As the mother of a son close in age these events always gut me.
Susan
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CKR
climber
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Jan 30, 2015 - 08:12pm PT
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Very sad to hear this. I knew Cody from the "morning crew" at metal mark as well. Hope Eric is holding up ok.
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LuckyNeck
Trad climber
the basement of Lou's Tavern
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Jan 31, 2015 - 05:38pm PT
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It was Cody's fourth time down the raps. He knew where he was going. There's nothing wrong with the rappels. I cannot say what caused him to let one end of the rope slip through his belay device, but then knowing that doesn't bring my friend back.
I didn't climb with him every time he went out, as I am busy, but just about every time i was able to get out to climb in the last year he was a part of the group. I cycled with him most Sundays, as we were preparing for a double century.
The first four days of the new year saw us and three others on the east side. Bouldering a couple days with a day in the Gorge in between, and a stop in the Alabama hills on the way home. Same as the trip we took over there in march, and the previous January.
For only having been climbing for about two or three years, he was getting pretty good. I spent a day with some professional climbers once, and noticed they got paid to climb because they naturally treated it like it was their job. Cody was beginning to adopt this same attitude. he was funny and entertaining, and at the same time was able to focus in when necessary.
I'm gonna miss that bastard yelling funny encouraging sh#t into my ear while im trying to climb harder. "FINISH YOUR MILK!" he used to say, if it looked like you were about to back off a hard boulder problem and not top out. and the ever funny, "breef" if you stopped breathing while concentrating too hard and not climbing relaxed.
...countless other sh#t like that.
See ya round buddy. I miss you already.
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rodermck
Social climber
san jose ca.
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So sad so young my heart goes out to his family and friends he was doing the sport he loved and will be remembered for that and let that to be a warning to others on the dangers of rrapping!!.. May he RIP!!..
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Vladimir
Trad climber
Los Altos, CA
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I'm not 100% clear on what happened, but aren't knots on the ends of a rappel rope supposed to prevent exactly what happened?
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The Real Mad Dog
Gym climber
Napa, CA
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This is a tragedy that never should have happened. If you cannot see that both ends of the rope descend to the next rappel point, you need to tie the ends of the rope in a knot so that neither can slip through your ATC. And if you're climbing with a partner who may pass out (e.g., one who gets occasional seizures), you always tie the knot.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Not the place for this conversation guys. That's why we started the other thread.
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Christofari
Big Wall climber
Sebastopol, CA
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I'm crushed to hear this story. I'm so sorry for all of the family and friends of Cody. Please make sure, for those in the tribe and adjacent, to look after each other especially in the months and years that follow after the shock wears off. We're all on the same team, which is very mighty and supportive.
August 16th, 2014 our climbing community lost Brad Parker on Mathes Crest after proposing to his girlfriend, Jainee, on top of Cathedral Peak. We are still devastated, but closer than ever. Like a few of you that have mentioned, follow through with your ambitions in honor of your dear friend Cody. He will live on through the positive ways he affected you. Use the legacy he has left behind to propel you and others forward safely.
Please, please always go a bit heavier and/or slower for the sake of safety. Adventures, as we all know, are what give us our balance in life and getting home safe is always the first priority for everything we do.
The sport of climbing is going to be growing and it's up to us, however seasoned of a climber you are, to teach and/or help the newer climbers about our awesome culture and etiquette. Be safe, leave no trace, and adventure big with honor.
My deepest condolences to those of you who knew Cody.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Wishing Cody the best on the greatest adventure and condolences to his loved ones missing him
Let's make more of a point when things like this happen to have one thread for the fallen and a separate thread for accident analysis. Relatives and friends tend to find these threads
respect and Peace
Karl
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Nice words Lucky Neck. I suppose one way climbers mourn is through accident analysis, which often starts to sound disconnected from the grieving and condolences, but the two are always intertwined. I'm sure Cody would be saying "Check those rap knots guys!", (with an F-bomb thrown in there for Codyspeak) if he saw a similar thread for a fallen comrade. Its funny, though I didn't know him well I still half expect to see his face and hear his distinct voice in the early mornings at the gym. Such a terrible loss for sure. Condolences and thoughts going out to all who knew him today.
Scott
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Michael Nicholson
Big Wall climber
Thousand Oaks
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RIP Cody. I wish his family the best.
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Heartfelt condolences to Cody's friends and family.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Condolences to family and friends, I didn't know the lad but may he rest in peace.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Great tribute to your friend Lucky Neck! He must have been a rad guy. No ones time is guaranteed. We all need to take the time to appreciate our friends and family!
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ninjakait
Trad climber
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Condolences to family and friends.
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