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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Sep 11, 2015 - 09:12pm PT
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i dont get the fixation on jaws. Its short, its homely, its not particularly fun, and if i can do it without a rope its moderate 5.10, because i suck at cracks
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Sep 11, 2015 - 09:15pm PT
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and good point on stuff you have wired bob, you lose all objectivity when a 5.11d feels like 5.6
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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Sep 11, 2015 - 09:17pm PT
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good point, kevin, the key phrase being "right off the road"
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 12, 2015 - 08:22am PT
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You got a thing for me now? It's okay if you do, the Woodson thread is the no-judgement zone.
That's funny. You sure you got the right thread?
Jaws is right by the road, and there is a cluster of fun stuff to get on right there next to it. THAT's why I'm on about it. That and the fact that it requires a few skills I don't have yet. Woodson is a great skill building area, and that's a fact!
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Sep 12, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
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My little brother entered the '84 contest, and the tender age of about 13. He had started climbing about a year previous, heard about this contest at Woodson, and thought he'd enter in his age range. Got a good spanking from the locals, but it opened his eyes, too.
He had been given a new rope to support his burgeoning climbing habit at a recent holiday- he brought it with him to the contest, not knowing he probably wouldn't need it. (Made him feel like the aspiring climber he wanted to be.) He left his pack with the rope at the sign-in desk, while he made the rounds of the problems. Later, he returned to the desk for his pack, and it was gone! His prized rope, disappeared. Frantically, he asks the folks at the desk if they'd seen it- one said he thought it might have been used on Lie Detector, where Ron Kauk was working the problem.
He walks over there, and sure enough, there's his rope, rigged on the problem...and Ron is tied into the end of it, trying to work the opening moves. There are a half dozen photographers around Ron, and every time he moved an inch, their cameras clicked like mad. My brother tried to push his way through them, but the photogs just elbowed him back. Finally, he managed to get in close enough and yelled, 'Hey...that's my rope!' The photogs just blew him off in disgust....but Ron said, 'sorry man....we just saw the rope at the desk, and thought it was part of the gear.' He asked them to pull & replace it, and gave it to my worried brother.
That simple little gesture of empathy has never left me.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 13, 2015 - 10:33am PT
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Mister E on Jaws 2010
I was thinking that I might be able to test the idea of climbing it at 70 in 8 years...
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 14, 2015 - 12:46pm PT
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balding = low test = good slab climber
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Sep 14, 2015 - 03:15pm PT
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Go do a Kevin "slab" route. You might want some hair. Kevin knows what he's talkin' about. Oh yeah by the way I'm slightly balding on the top and never did have much body hair( I know...TMI), but part of that may due to my heritage.
Peace
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Sep 14, 2015 - 04:01pm PT
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So, I feel that I have to come to Burchy's defense, just a little bit. You asked me what I thought Jaws should be rated. As I recall (always dubious at best), the Poway boys regarded it as 5.11a at first, but I quickly came to regard it as 5.10d. Piggott was the first to do it and he wasn't one to inflate grades. Realistically, on a climb, it would be rated something like 5.10d-5.11a. Maybe just the entrance move. Back then, we bouldered as practice for real climbs and tended to rate boulder moves as if we were doing the move hundreds of feet up rather than just off the ground. Still seems like the fair way to rate boulder moves to me but I've never been much of a boulderer, really.
For the data point, I still have hair. It's all grey and springy or something, however.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 14, 2015 - 04:13pm PT
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Posting on Supertopo = low T = facts = who cares
Only facts on this thread from here on out, no jokes plz
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Sep 24, 2015 - 11:45pm PT
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Looks like an anchor but why isn't it up on top?
....or maybe the real question is, why am I on the Woodson thread?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 25, 2015 - 06:25am PT
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you lose all objectivity when a 5.11d feels like 5.6
Not sure I will ever know what that feels like.....
I'm tall, so maybe the entrance move is easier for me on Jaws. I'm stubborn about when I get it, it's the middle 3 ft section that is off fingers for me, I want to get it jamming straight in. That off finger size is one of my weaknessess for sure. Add in the slight overhang and I am tested on a couple levels. I have a hard time thinking that Jaws is 10b. I could buy 10d, but all these ratings are general guidelines anyway. And Jaws is "5. pretty close to doing it" for me which probably means something 5.10 ish. Ok so what the hell 10b to 10d. I have mild dyslexia anyway.
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Sep 25, 2015 - 01:06pm PT
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Jaws being 10b is as accurate as saying there are no trolls in this thread.
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Pointbrk
Boulder climber
Encinitas, Scal
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Sep 29, 2015 - 09:02pm PT
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Johnny!
How do I miss this sh#t?
LOL
Have I really not had a post Since 2011?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 23, 2015 - 09:05am PT
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Is it true that Erik Sloan has managed to get the Board of Geographic Names to change the
spelling of Mt Woodson?
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Friend
climber
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Oct 23, 2015 - 10:55am PT
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How about some fresh photos, it must be getting nice down there...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oct 24, 2015 - 02:01pm PT
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Firefly! At 11a, now THAT'S a sandbag. 11d if it's a dime. I've seen some good climbers get closed out on that gnarly little morsel.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Oct 30, 2015 - 02:00pm PT
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No mention of putting in sh#tters
That's because there are already shitters on the Lake Poway side. It's the side we use that needs the (potato chip) shitters. Have fun out there!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Oct 31, 2015 - 01:59pm PT
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Dafuq, I can't ID that thing. I hate it when that happens.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Oct 31, 2015 - 02:14pm PT
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Is that the thin aid climb on Everest?
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