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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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3 bolts
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F10
Trad climber
Bishop
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Well said Ron
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gonamok
climber
dont make me come over there
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I usually don`t post but thought I would throw a few things out there. First off Scattergun did not put the route up I did. He showed me the route and we thought it would be fun as a lead. Neither of us could find it online or in any guide books. In the past couple decades that friend of mine and I have climbed at Woodson and neither of us knew it was a line that went. It was put in ground up. A good friend of mine belayed me. I put the anchor bolt far back so others could use them for the crack and center of the face. The route has been up going onto 2 years. So far I have only heard good things about this route till John started crying about it. Claims he tried it off of the old rusted leaper hanger a few years ago. I would love to watch him do it, that thing probably could not support his body weight let alone his ego. As for John it seems whenever their is a problem his name comes up. He seems to like chopping other people's stuff, but it`s ok for him to bolt whatever he wants. Don`t worry I know where most of his bolt are ;) I recall a certain route at Suicide that got anchor bolts after all of these years for a certain someones convenience. Lets not forget he removed the pins from Etude, or the hanger from Sundance. Oh wait I didn`t do it but know who did (wink wink). I know of more should I go on? As far as his friends backing him they are just doing what friends do. A dark cloud always seems to follow where ever this climber goes.
As far as the bolts on the face by POA, GCS, or Yoav they are not mine. Although the one on Yoav is great for keeping the rope out of the crack, but hate to break the news to everyone it`s been there for a while. It has been there for just over a year before the route got posted on mountainproject.
Just wanted to get a few facts straight. Do whatever your going to do because your going to do it anyways. Just remember in the end the rock pays. Please don`t pm me or write posts to me. I normally don`t the forum this stuff because I think it can be toxic. I like to come on Supertopo from time to time to see what I love....climbing.
last word from me - this is so wrong on so many levels. The guy who wrote it is a real piece of work. First of all, if he had been climbing at woodson for 20 years , as stated, i think we would know him. So whats your name bunky? Want to give yourself a little credibility? Ok so this guy goes on about how they couldnt find any record of the little slab being climbed therefore it must have been unclimbed....we never recorded dumpy little problems like that on the hill, there are millions of them. I would think that a grizzled veteran would see the tr bolt above the slab and shrewdly deduce that it had been climbed before. What did you think the bolt was for, dude? Put it in from the ground up...right. I neglected to mention that i climbed the lil slab after i removed the bolts, self belaying by moving an ascender up the fixed line after each move. Its 5.9, has been chipped and the bolts were not drilled from stances. The second bolt was waist high when on the stance you would drill from, and i dont think youre gonna hold the drill that low when on the lead.
After a quick (and fabricated) defense of his actions the guy goes right into a personal attack on weinberg, as if john wrote the woodson ethic or something. Etude? Sundance? I dont think they are at woodson. I found that disapproval witin the real woodson local cadre was unanimous among those i contacted about it. I call myself johns friend, but his backing was because he was right, not because we are blindly loyal, you twit. Havent seen Johns dark cloud, but mr. wherethef*#kwereyouthewholetime certainly has one now, if he didnt before. Get the facts straight...the comic relief is appreciated there. The ending is so darling. "please dont write posts to me" he just wants to spew and retreat to wherever invisible woodson hardmen go. Dude.....
oh and the leeper is fine, in 20 years you never used a single 1/4" bolt to tr from? Nobody is gonna fall anyway. If i were a few years younger id solo it just to make a point, its easy enough, im just too fat and awkward to risk such things these days
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 10, 2015 - 07:51pm PT
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bump this sh#t. MOAR SLANDER!!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 10, 2015 - 07:56pm PT
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Just a reminder to all you hard guys: girls were running ropeless laps on Jaws before you were born. Before. You. Were. Born.
sukit
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 11, 2015 - 02:58am PT
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First pic , Razor's Edge?
I've never used a rope on Jaws even before I could get up the thing. That provided some good learning experiences. I never really considered what would happen if I came off after you can no longer step back onto the boulder behind you. I was pretty psyched when I finally got it. I climb it just about every time I visit; one of the best.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 11, 2015 - 06:48am PT
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More like brainoffoolishness coupled with lifeoflucky
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 11, 2015 - 07:06am PT
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Due to variance in the crack as it gradually widens from tips to hands most will encounter a "bitch to jam" move or two somewhere along the way. I find a right hand thumbs up pinch to be effective.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 11, 2015 - 07:19am PT
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Going thumbs down with the right hand is counterproductive (harder) in the off section because the right side of the crack is offset.
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Friend
climber
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Sep 11, 2015 - 10:04am PT
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I think Clark is right re Jaws. Thumbs down left, thumbs up right. There is a hard jam midway which requires thoughtful milking.. thinking about Burch's picture ^^^ !!! may help.
Here's a BVB-style move topo for Driving South based on my vivid recollection. Don't read if you want to onsight.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 11, 2015 - 11:00am PT
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Funny, Patty studies the heck out of that video. About as straight in as most would get I suspect. Because of the range of sizes, this is next on my "want to do" list.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Sep 11, 2015 - 01:51pm PT
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If I can't do Jaws when I'm 70, please, someone shoot me. As for Boulder 13, when I did it, no one was climbinf offwidth by putting their feet first. I did it as a very-wide fist jam with a real offwidth move or two. Climbing it this way , for me, felt like 5.11+.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Sep 11, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
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^^^^Doods the arm bar KING.
To be able to do Jaws at 70, I need to be able to do it at 59 first. I'll get on that right away (after it cools off a little around here that is) ;) . I am the optimist when it comes to that problem.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 11, 2015 - 03:04pm PT
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Russ already said that Boulder 13 was 10d; industry standard no less. I have no reason to doubt him. Boulder 13 is a touch harder than Jaws so...I guess 10 c/d for Jaws (industry standard of course).
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Sep 11, 2015 - 04:34pm PT
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I'm enjoying the "Driving South" topo. I think I can do it now.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Sep 11, 2015 - 05:03pm PT
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Don't sweat it Burch. We've all received an indiscriminate bitch slap on the hill at one time or another.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 11, 2015 - 05:46pm PT
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By the time I got to be a regular at Woodson (1975ish) Jaws was the benchmark for 5.10b.
I think it might have been a little bit sandbagged. Or maybe that was the proper grade for those who knew how to climb cracks, and climb them well. At times I had it so dialed that I was no longer capable of putting a realistic grade on it. 5.7? 5.8?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 11, 2015 - 07:35pm PT
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By the time I got to be a regular at Woodson (1975ish) Jaws was the benchmark for 5.10b.
And dimes were the benchmark for movie ticket prices, we get it gramps...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Sep 11, 2015 - 08:42pm PT
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The speed of light is and always will be 186,000 miles per second, unless someone decides to recalibrate our entire system for measuring time and distance and weights and measures, pal.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Dont put in bolts, as a rule
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