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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 24, 2014 - 08:28am PT
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If you are looking for a good introduction to ice climbing then consider going to the Bozeman Ice Festival December 10-14. Daily clinics and some set up specifically for women will get you going right well.
Inspiring programming at night and tons of talent out during the day make this event a winner every year so add it to the Ouray festival on your noob calendar this year. Great place to rent all of the gear and try it out before you choose your weapons.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 24, 2014 - 08:39am PT
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Yeah and if you go to Bozeman there is a KICKASS Mexican-American place. BEST freaking fish tacos and burritos I had in my life, BY FAR. Thinking of going to Bozeman just for that food. Oh and if Winter Dance is in!
Donini's post is right on. If you can test gear, do it before buying. Also try out ice climbing before buying all the crap.
What worked for me: bought old ice tools and climbed on them with my general mountaineering crampons for two seasons. I think it helps you to improve the technique quite a lot. Harder to cut corners with shittier tols and than if you like to climb ice, you upgrade to new tools and feel like you can climb harder automatically. BD Cobras are my favorite all around modern ice tools. Can do WI2-6 with them. But starting out on some cheaper tools is a good idea. I still have my old ones and can sell them for 150$ (for the pair) if you want (Grievel Light Machines).
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Nov 24, 2014 - 11:51am PT
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I am an old guy so all of the new gear is pretty good by me. The new tools take at least half a grade off of everything. The Ouray suggestion is pretty good as you will get a taste of whether you want to commit to all of the $ you need for this activity. If you like it head to the Canadian Rockies (Feb to early March is probably best) and check out grav sports for conditions. The best thing about the Rockies is the variety of grades and lengths but popular climbs can get pretty crowded on weekends.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Nov 24, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
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Williamson gets good ice in a cold spell. The waterfall wall can get fat, moving left of the Voices wall the main face can have good ice top to bottom for multi pitch off vertical fun.
The Stash slab is low angle easy practice. And finally the main chimney can be a lot of fun with sttep snow and ice at the top.
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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Anyone know the approx. distance between Montrose, Co. to Ouray?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 24, 2014 - 03:33pm PT
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38.5 miles from the airport to downtown (or uptown for that matter) Ouray.
edit: Easy drive, no mountain passes, road always open.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 24, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
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there's limo service between Montrose Co. Airport and Ouray too...
I took San Juan Skyway (TelluRides rides@tellurides.com), it was $82.50 one way with the Festival discount in Dec 2012
might be less expensive then renting a car, depending on the length of your stay... If you're going to go into the back country (which is to be recommended) you probably would go with someone who has a ride...
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2014 - 04:04pm PT
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You won't believe this (I am thrilled) but have a job interview next week to work in Montrose. Lucky for me it will be via skype!
Now all I need to do is learn how to use skype.....
but is this wonderful news or what?! escape LA!!!!!
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Nov 24, 2014 - 04:18pm PT
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Whoa lots of good advice so far!
I live in OC...we're in the same warm boat sister Karen. Lee Vining is most consistent and goes at about a +6 hour drive. Stay at Murphy's or the Best Western. The road out to the power plant (TH) is usually accessible by cars but having some clearance and better yet..4x is nicer. The approach is typically +30-45mins to get to the base. Chouinard Falls is what you have been seeking; W2-W3. Steeper stuff to its left.
June Lake has good ice when it's in, but from my experience it's more consistent at Lee Vining. But I don't usually make it up that way until late Feb or March when JL is thin or gone.
Trying the gear as demo is best if that is available to you. Having specialized gear is much nicer than the crossover stuff.
But SabreTooths seem to do that well. Axes that are tools [shrug].
For tools I'd go with a pair of tools that are the most modern with a big curve. I am using Cassin All Mountains and bought the modular grips to switch out for alpine, but depending on the climb/approach I might bring my piolet and one tool.
For what it's worth this year when I was in NH for their Ice Fest, they had all the tools and the ones they loaned out the most were the All Mountains. I tried the latest Nomics for fun and they delivered.
MP has plenty of used ice tools and crampons for usually good pricing.
I didn't see a question about footwear...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 24, 2014 - 04:24pm PT
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Montrose is sweet. The Black Canyon is literally out the back door. Ouray is close and the Utah Desert is only a three hour drive.
Lift skiing at Telluride, backcountry on Red Mountain Pass, really good sport climbing as well as ice in Ouray. Fabulous hiking and fishing and the best scenery in Colorado.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 24, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
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My recommendation is don't over think it. If you have the coin, fly to Montrose, rent a Jeep and head to Ouray. It is a pretty simple way to dip your feet in the water.
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10b4me
climber
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Nov 24, 2014 - 05:51pm PT
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Have climbed, off and on, in LV, and June Lake since 1980. Finally made it to Ouray three years ago. By far, the best ice I've been on.
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climbingcoastie
Ice climber
Sacramento, CA
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Nov 24, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
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Solid advice given so far, but figured I'd add a few things:
Boots- probably your most important piece of gear. You want a minimum of ¾ shank for ice climbing with full shank being better. Get what fits your feet. Everyone has an opinion as to what is best. The best boot is the one that fits your foot!
Crampons- I know a lot of people will disagree with me, but for just starting out horizontal front points are best IMO. Sabertooth’s are the most popular. Chances are you won’t be doing any mixed climbing and that’s where mono points shine. I know of several “pro’s” that will wear horizontal points for pure ice climbing, less chance to shear out.
Tools- any of the modern tools will work. You just need to find the one that swings best for you. I started on a pair of BD Rages that I climbed with for a long time. Everyone around me started using newer tools but none of them felt great. The Quarks felt good but really weren’t THAT much better than my Rage’s to justify the investment. The following year I tried every tool available at the ice fest and fell in love with the Nomics. That’s what I’m climbing on still, but really want to try some of the newer tools out there now.
Ice Fests- if you can afford to get to them they are a great way to demo gear before buying it. As mentioned Bozeman in December, Ouray in January, and just announced Valdez in February. The first two are guaranteed to have demo gear. They are working on getting the sponsors for Valdez to have demo gear. You can literally show up in Ouray in hiking clothes and be outfitted to climb. Either take clinics at the fest and stay a few days after or go at a different time. You will learn a lot at the clinics, but from my experience you won’t climb a lot in them (they have started full day clinics though).
Ouray- The Ice Park is known for its ability to top rope. If you have your gear and can confidently set a top rope anchor, just go and climb until your arms go out. Nothings better than laps on ice. BTW: if you do head to Ouray invest in an Ice Park membership!! It will pay dividends with hotel, meal and clinic discounts.
California ice- I may be mistaken, but I don’t think there is much you can climb without leading it first. That might be a problem if you can’t partner up with someone.
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Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
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Nov 24, 2014 - 09:32pm PT
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Laphroaig. Verified best for the climbing of iced terrain though whatever single malt you bring along is my current favorite.
Laphroiag. 'Leap Frog' we called it in Texas because we couldn't wrap our drawl around so many consonants but it sure tasted good.
Fill your flask with decent spirits and your partners will be spirited in kind!
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mission
Social climber
boulder,co
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Incredibly, nobody has rented my 5 bedroom house in Ouray for the Ouray Ice Festival! Here it is: www.vrbo.com/89633
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