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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
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I suppose I could Google these but would rather hear from ST'ers.
1. What are the best crampons?, I have the step in type and I don't think they would work to well.
2. I'd never get up any ice if it was totally vertical and for sure in no way over-hanging. Are there off angle ice climbs?
3. Does Ouray ice festival have easy climbs? and if so, are there people there who wouldn't mind helping out a noob like me?
4. I live in LA (gag) what is the closest area to ice climb? and are there easy sections? Approach distance?
Appreciate any advice or more info.
Thanks, Karen
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Nov 23, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
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You're in LA, you don't have to climb ice.
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SethKane
Ice climber
Bozeman, MT
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Nov 23, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
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1. I'd say any major brand (BD, petzl, Grivel, Camp/cassin) and the model which has replaceable, vertical front points and can be switched to monopoint (BD cyborg, petzl lynx, grivel rambo, cassin blade runner)
2. Anything WI3 and easier is going to be less then vertical
Can't comment on 3 or 4
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Nov 23, 2014 - 04:19pm PT
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If you can go to Ouray then by all means do. Tons of loaner gear and clinics for all skill levels. Come see me at the La Sportiva booth.
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Lanthade
climber
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Nov 23, 2014 - 04:37pm PT
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1) the ones that fit your boots. I've used grivel for years and like them. Other good ones out there too.
2) ice will only be overhanging if water doesn't drip. Doesn't really happen (you won't see it as a noob). Lots of easy angle ice if you know where to look.
3 & 4) dunno
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 23, 2014 - 04:47pm PT
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Don't buy any gear....go to the Ouray Ice Festival.
1) Use free demo gear and decide whats best for you before you invest.
2) Take some of the many clinics offered.
3) You will do vertical or nearly vertical ice.
The Ouray Ice Festival is the best way to get introduced to ice climbing on this planet.
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2014 - 04:56pm PT
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Thank you!
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Nov 23, 2014 - 05:03pm PT
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1: Petzl Lynx or Grivel G14...or one of the other similar offerings. Just make sure they have vertical frontpoints. It's also nice to have the ability to change between mono points and dual points, especially if you're just starting out.
2: Tons of low-angle ice climbs. Look for climbs with rating if WI 3 and WI 4- and below.
3: I've never been but from what I hear Ouray has pretty much everything available.
4: LAX. Drive to long-term parking, take the shuttle, and get on a plane. Seriously. The next-best option would be to get on a bus. Following these options, Lee Vining Canyon up in Nor Cal has ice. Also, the best ice climb in the Lower 48 is in Yosemite but it very rarely forms and is a serious undertaking.
Are you sure you want to buy ice gear if you're planning on staying in LA? If you're into mountaineering, much of the gear is interchangeable. It would probably be much more cost-effective to simply rent on the rare occasions that you do climb ice.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 23, 2014 - 05:08pm PT
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JB, you forgot to tell her that she'll also learn about freezing her booty off up there.
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
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Jim, I love the cold!!!!!!
Favorite ski days are when the temps fall so low it drives all the peeps off the runs.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 23, 2014 - 05:21pm PT
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You might be an ice climber then
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nov 23, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
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Post on gravsports to look for partners in Alberta.
Yer likely first reply:
"Hey, Karen, here's a nice warm-up climb. It's called 'Polar Circus'. And bring yer lunch."
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2014 - 06:49pm PT
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Thanks Dean:)
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Brian
climber
California
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Nov 23, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
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Karen,
Jim gives some good advice about demo gear at the Ouray Ice Fest. We all have our preferences, so best to try before you buy when possible.
From LA, in a car (times could be a bit faster with a liberal interpretation of the speed limit and solid bladder control).
5hrs to June Lake/Lee Vining
~9hrs to Joe's Valley, Santaquin, Provo, Big and Little Cottonwood
12hrs to Ouray and all the other stuff in the San Juans
Or, drive to LAX, fly to Calgary, and drive to the Icefields Parkway--not much more time than a trip to Lee Vining.
Ice climbing in LA is tough. True there are the oddball obscurities--Williamson, North Face routes on Tahquitz, North Face of the Watchtower, etc., etc. Hell, I think Gordon even climbed ice in Josh one year after a big snowstorm if I recall correctly (I was guiding and got buried in Hidden Valley). But for solid ice trips you are road-tripping--no two ways about it.
I've been lucky enough to live in New England, Ouray, and Chamonix for some spells, and to have a job that lets me get out a bunch; but without the ability to get off solid blocks of time, it is tough to pursue a passion for ice climbing in LA.
Brian
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 23, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
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I iced climbed in the Northeast from about 1985 to 1995
when I came to California I knew that it would be the end of my ice climbing... closest ice climbing is to get on an airplane to Colorado...
(not that there isn't ice climbing in Cali, it's just not world class)...
Bill McC got me to go to Ouray a few years ago and it was a great re-introduction to ice climbing. First, getting to the ice is a 15 minute walk from down town... you climb all day, then walk back, soak in the hot tub and go for dinner...
...this is opposed to driving 2 to 3 hours in the NE on those frost heaved roads climbing a climb and repeating the drive back... sometimes we'd winter camp to avoid the drive back...
Using the demo gear is a fantastic way to find out what works for you and what doesn't. It's free (well not quite, if you go to the Festival you pay for the clinics, and get to demo the gear, and you have to be there early to get the gear you are interested in) and all manner of gear (including boots I believe) are available to be demo'd.
The modern clothing is also much better than what we had back in the day...
I'd go and take the clinics, an assortment of skill sets and mostly easier stuff to top rope.
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Nov 24, 2014 - 06:33am PT
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When in Ouray, do make it out to some of the easier backcountry stuff like Dexter's Slab or up at Skylight if you have a good partner. Assuming the avy conditions aren't poor...
Good to get out and feel that you're really in the mountains and not just the typical icy trench of the gorge.
Hike up to Bridalveil in telluride... Just stand under that sucker for inspiration. First pitch is a Class 2 snowcone. Remember to rap down from there. :)
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Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
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Nov 24, 2014 - 06:47am PT
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Jim's advice is good as always. If you really pursue ice, and general mountaineering too, you will end up with multiple kinds of crampons. Most people prefer vertical front points when climbing waterfall ice. Crampons that can switch between dual and mono vertical front points are more versatile. My preference is offset mono. When traveling on glaciers or on any frozen water other than "waterfall" ice, in my opinion, horizontal front points are much more comfortable, and they are also still great on alpine ice, which is very different than waterfall ice. Horizontal front points can also be very useful when climbing verglas.
Have fun.
Oh, if you want to be an ice climber, get out of LA.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Nov 24, 2014 - 06:48am PT
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Look up Tami's comparison of cavers and ice climbers...
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 24, 2014 - 06:52am PT
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Couple basic tips
Most decent rock climbers pick up water ice climbing very easily. Having a hold pretty much anywhere you choose. What takes a little more time is becoming efficient, Reading the ice, Not getting picks overdriven, not banging knuckles, a relaxed foot angle. Even the steepest higher grade water ice climbs often feel more like just strenuous 5.6.
Leading is where a confident rock climber can get in trouble. Ice pro usually takes much longer to place than what you are used too. The ice is so easy you can forget to place pro before you get tired and need it. You get way above your pro fast. When you get tired and it takes even longer to place, bad situation. Most scared Ive been a couple times on lead anywhere was that scenario. Thinking I would melt off and take a big one before I could hang.
Its the reason so many ice climbers solo. The time it would take to place the pro you could have just gone another 30 feet maybe. Three or four pieces in a pitch equals 100feet of time wasted. Plus most of the time you are far enough above pro you don't want to fall anyway. Sometimes it's just as safe to ignore the pro.
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Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
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Nov 24, 2014 - 07:24am PT
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30 mins from LA
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 24, 2014 - 08:28am PT
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If you are looking for a good introduction to ice climbing then consider going to the Bozeman Ice Festival December 10-14. Daily clinics and some set up specifically for women will get you going right well.
Inspiring programming at night and tons of talent out during the day make this event a winner every year so add it to the Ouray festival on your noob calendar this year. Great place to rent all of the gear and try it out before you choose your weapons.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Nov 24, 2014 - 08:39am PT
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Yeah and if you go to Bozeman there is a KICKASS Mexican-American place. BEST freaking fish tacos and burritos I had in my life, BY FAR. Thinking of going to Bozeman just for that food. Oh and if Winter Dance is in!
Donini's post is right on. If you can test gear, do it before buying. Also try out ice climbing before buying all the crap.
What worked for me: bought old ice tools and climbed on them with my general mountaineering crampons for two seasons. I think it helps you to improve the technique quite a lot. Harder to cut corners with shittier tols and than if you like to climb ice, you upgrade to new tools and feel like you can climb harder automatically. BD Cobras are my favorite all around modern ice tools. Can do WI2-6 with them. But starting out on some cheaper tools is a good idea. I still have my old ones and can sell them for 150$ (for the pair) if you want (Grievel Light Machines).
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Nov 24, 2014 - 11:51am PT
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I am an old guy so all of the new gear is pretty good by me. The new tools take at least half a grade off of everything. The Ouray suggestion is pretty good as you will get a taste of whether you want to commit to all of the $ you need for this activity. If you like it head to the Canadian Rockies (Feb to early March is probably best) and check out grav sports for conditions. The best thing about the Rockies is the variety of grades and lengths but popular climbs can get pretty crowded on weekends.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Nov 24, 2014 - 12:06pm PT
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Williamson gets good ice in a cold spell. The waterfall wall can get fat, moving left of the Voices wall the main face can have good ice top to bottom for multi pitch off vertical fun.
The Stash slab is low angle easy practice. And finally the main chimney can be a lot of fun with sttep snow and ice at the top.
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2014 - 03:30pm PT
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Anyone know the approx. distance between Montrose, Co. to Ouray?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 24, 2014 - 03:33pm PT
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38.5 miles from the airport to downtown (or uptown for that matter) Ouray.
edit: Easy drive, no mountain passes, road always open.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 24, 2014 - 03:44pm PT
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there's limo service between Montrose Co. Airport and Ouray too...
I took San Juan Skyway (TelluRides rides@tellurides.com), it was $82.50 one way with the Festival discount in Dec 2012
might be less expensive then renting a car, depending on the length of your stay... If you're going to go into the back country (which is to be recommended) you probably would go with someone who has a ride...
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Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2014 - 04:04pm PT
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You won't believe this (I am thrilled) but have a job interview next week to work in Montrose. Lucky for me it will be via skype!
Now all I need to do is learn how to use skype.....
but is this wonderful news or what?! escape LA!!!!!
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Roots
Mountain climber
Tustin, CA
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Nov 24, 2014 - 04:18pm PT
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Whoa lots of good advice so far!
I live in OC...we're in the same warm boat sister Karen. Lee Vining is most consistent and goes at about a +6 hour drive. Stay at Murphy's or the Best Western. The road out to the power plant (TH) is usually accessible by cars but having some clearance and better yet..4x is nicer. The approach is typically +30-45mins to get to the base. Chouinard Falls is what you have been seeking; W2-W3. Steeper stuff to its left.
June Lake has good ice when it's in, but from my experience it's more consistent at Lee Vining. But I don't usually make it up that way until late Feb or March when JL is thin or gone.
Trying the gear as demo is best if that is available to you. Having specialized gear is much nicer than the crossover stuff.
But SabreTooths seem to do that well. Axes that are tools [shrug].
For tools I'd go with a pair of tools that are the most modern with a big curve. I am using Cassin All Mountains and bought the modular grips to switch out for alpine, but depending on the climb/approach I might bring my piolet and one tool.
For what it's worth this year when I was in NH for their Ice Fest, they had all the tools and the ones they loaned out the most were the All Mountains. I tried the latest Nomics for fun and they delivered.
MP has plenty of used ice tools and crampons for usually good pricing.
I didn't see a question about footwear...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 24, 2014 - 04:24pm PT
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Montrose is sweet. The Black Canyon is literally out the back door. Ouray is close and the Utah Desert is only a three hour drive.
Lift skiing at Telluride, backcountry on Red Mountain Pass, really good sport climbing as well as ice in Ouray. Fabulous hiking and fishing and the best scenery in Colorado.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Nov 24, 2014 - 04:50pm PT
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My recommendation is don't over think it. If you have the coin, fly to Montrose, rent a Jeep and head to Ouray. It is a pretty simple way to dip your feet in the water.
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10b4me
climber
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Nov 24, 2014 - 05:51pm PT
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Have climbed, off and on, in LV, and June Lake since 1980. Finally made it to Ouray three years ago. By far, the best ice I've been on.
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climbingcoastie
Ice climber
Sacramento, CA
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Nov 24, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
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Solid advice given so far, but figured I'd add a few things:
Boots- probably your most important piece of gear. You want a minimum of ¾ shank for ice climbing with full shank being better. Get what fits your feet. Everyone has an opinion as to what is best. The best boot is the one that fits your foot!
Crampons- I know a lot of people will disagree with me, but for just starting out horizontal front points are best IMO. Sabertooth’s are the most popular. Chances are you won’t be doing any mixed climbing and that’s where mono points shine. I know of several “pro’s” that will wear horizontal points for pure ice climbing, less chance to shear out.
Tools- any of the modern tools will work. You just need to find the one that swings best for you. I started on a pair of BD Rages that I climbed with for a long time. Everyone around me started using newer tools but none of them felt great. The Quarks felt good but really weren’t THAT much better than my Rage’s to justify the investment. The following year I tried every tool available at the ice fest and fell in love with the Nomics. That’s what I’m climbing on still, but really want to try some of the newer tools out there now.
Ice Fests- if you can afford to get to them they are a great way to demo gear before buying it. As mentioned Bozeman in December, Ouray in January, and just announced Valdez in February. The first two are guaranteed to have demo gear. They are working on getting the sponsors for Valdez to have demo gear. You can literally show up in Ouray in hiking clothes and be outfitted to climb. Either take clinics at the fest and stay a few days after or go at a different time. You will learn a lot at the clinics, but from my experience you won’t climb a lot in them (they have started full day clinics though).
Ouray- The Ice Park is known for its ability to top rope. If you have your gear and can confidently set a top rope anchor, just go and climb until your arms go out. Nothings better than laps on ice. BTW: if you do head to Ouray invest in an Ice Park membership!! It will pay dividends with hotel, meal and clinic discounts.
California ice- I may be mistaken, but I don’t think there is much you can climb without leading it first. That might be a problem if you can’t partner up with someone.
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Gilroy
Social climber
Bolderado
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Nov 24, 2014 - 09:32pm PT
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Laphroaig. Verified best for the climbing of iced terrain though whatever single malt you bring along is my current favorite.
Laphroiag. 'Leap Frog' we called it in Texas because we couldn't wrap our drawl around so many consonants but it sure tasted good.
Fill your flask with decent spirits and your partners will be spirited in kind!
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mission
Social climber
boulder,co
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Incredibly, nobody has rented my 5 bedroom house in Ouray for the Ouray Ice Festival! Here it is: www.vrbo.com/89633
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