Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 23, 2014 - 03:38pm PT
|
I suppose I could Google these but would rather hear from ST'ers.
1. What are the best crampons?, I have the step in type and I don't think they would work to well.
2. I'd never get up any ice if it was totally vertical and for sure in no way over-hanging. Are there off angle ice climbs?
3. Does Ouray ice festival have easy climbs? and if so, are there people there who wouldn't mind helping out a noob like me?
4. I live in LA (gag) what is the closest area to ice climb? and are there easy sections? Approach distance?
Appreciate any advice or more info.
Thanks, Karen
|
|
divad
Trad climber
wmass
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2014 - 03:45pm PT
|
You're in LA, you don't have to climb ice.
|
|
SethKane
Ice climber
Bozeman, MT
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
|
1. I'd say any major brand (BD, petzl, Grivel, Camp/cassin) and the model which has replaceable, vertical front points and can be switched to monopoint (BD cyborg, petzl lynx, grivel rambo, cassin blade runner)
2. Anything WI3 and easier is going to be less then vertical
Can't comment on 3 or 4
|
|
Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2014 - 04:19pm PT
|
If you can go to Ouray then by all means do. Tons of loaner gear and clinics for all skill levels. Come see me at the La Sportiva booth.
|
|
Lanthade
climber
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2014 - 04:37pm PT
|
1) the ones that fit your boots. I've used grivel for years and like them. Other good ones out there too.
2) ice will only be overhanging if water doesn't drip. Doesn't really happen (you won't see it as a noob). Lots of easy angle ice if you know where to look.
3 & 4) dunno
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2014 - 04:47pm PT
|
Don't buy any gear....go to the Ouray Ice Festival.
1) Use free demo gear and decide whats best for you before you invest.
2) Take some of the many clinics offered.
3) You will do vertical or nearly vertical ice.
The Ouray Ice Festival is the best way to get introduced to ice climbing on this planet.
|
|
Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2014 - 04:56pm PT
|
Thank you!
|
|
ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2014 - 05:03pm PT
|
1: Petzl Lynx or Grivel G14...or one of the other similar offerings. Just make sure they have vertical frontpoints. It's also nice to have the ability to change between mono points and dual points, especially if you're just starting out.
2: Tons of low-angle ice climbs. Look for climbs with rating if WI 3 and WI 4- and below.
3: I've never been but from what I hear Ouray has pretty much everything available.
4: LAX. Drive to long-term parking, take the shuttle, and get on a plane. Seriously. The next-best option would be to get on a bus. Following these options, Lee Vining Canyon up in Nor Cal has ice. Also, the best ice climb in the Lower 48 is in Yosemite but it very rarely forms and is a serious undertaking.
Are you sure you want to buy ice gear if you're planning on staying in LA? If you're into mountaineering, much of the gear is interchangeable. It would probably be much more cost-effective to simply rent on the rare occasions that you do climb ice.
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2014 - 05:08pm PT
|
JB, you forgot to tell her that she'll also learn about freezing her booty off up there.
|
|
Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2014 - 05:19pm PT
|
Jim, I love the cold!!!!!!
Favorite ski days are when the temps fall so low it drives all the peeps off the runs.
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2014 - 05:21pm PT
|
You might be an ice climber then
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
|
Post on gravsports to look for partners in Alberta.
Yer likely first reply:
"Hey, Karen, here's a nice warm-up climb. It's called 'Polar Circus'. And bring yer lunch."
|
|
Karen
Trad climber
So Cal urban sprawl Hell
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2014 - 06:49pm PT
|
Thanks Dean:)
|
|
Brian
climber
California
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2014 - 07:37pm PT
|
Karen,
Jim gives some good advice about demo gear at the Ouray Ice Fest. We all have our preferences, so best to try before you buy when possible.
From LA, in a car (times could be a bit faster with a liberal interpretation of the speed limit and solid bladder control).
5hrs to June Lake/Lee Vining
~9hrs to Joe's Valley, Santaquin, Provo, Big and Little Cottonwood
12hrs to Ouray and all the other stuff in the San Juans
Or, drive to LAX, fly to Calgary, and drive to the Icefields Parkway--not much more time than a trip to Lee Vining.
Ice climbing in LA is tough. True there are the oddball obscurities--Williamson, North Face routes on Tahquitz, North Face of the Watchtower, etc., etc. Hell, I think Gordon even climbed ice in Josh one year after a big snowstorm if I recall correctly (I was guiding and got buried in Hidden Valley). But for solid ice trips you are road-tripping--no two ways about it.
I've been lucky enough to live in New England, Ouray, and Chamonix for some spells, and to have a job that lets me get out a bunch; but without the ability to get off solid blocks of time, it is tough to pursue a passion for ice climbing in LA.
Brian
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 23, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
|
I iced climbed in the Northeast from about 1985 to 1995
when I came to California I knew that it would be the end of my ice climbing... closest ice climbing is to get on an airplane to Colorado...
(not that there isn't ice climbing in Cali, it's just not world class)...
Bill McC got me to go to Ouray a few years ago and it was a great re-introduction to ice climbing. First, getting to the ice is a 15 minute walk from down town... you climb all day, then walk back, soak in the hot tub and go for dinner...
...this is opposed to driving 2 to 3 hours in the NE on those frost heaved roads climbing a climb and repeating the drive back... sometimes we'd winter camp to avoid the drive back...
Using the demo gear is a fantastic way to find out what works for you and what doesn't. It's free (well not quite, if you go to the Festival you pay for the clinics, and get to demo the gear, and you have to be there early to get the gear you are interested in) and all manner of gear (including boots I believe) are available to be demo'd.
The modern clothing is also much better than what we had back in the day...
I'd go and take the clinics, an assortment of skill sets and mostly easier stuff to top rope.
|
|
fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2014 - 06:33am PT
|
When in Ouray, do make it out to some of the easier backcountry stuff like Dexter's Slab or up at Skylight if you have a good partner. Assuming the avy conditions aren't poor...
Good to get out and feel that you're really in the mountains and not just the typical icy trench of the gorge.
Hike up to Bridalveil in telluride... Just stand under that sucker for inspiration. First pitch is a Class 2 snowcone. Remember to rap down from there. :)
|
|
Dropline
Mountain climber
Somewhere Up There
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2014 - 06:47am PT
|
Jim's advice is good as always. If you really pursue ice, and general mountaineering too, you will end up with multiple kinds of crampons. Most people prefer vertical front points when climbing waterfall ice. Crampons that can switch between dual and mono vertical front points are more versatile. My preference is offset mono. When traveling on glaciers or on any frozen water other than "waterfall" ice, in my opinion, horizontal front points are much more comfortable, and they are also still great on alpine ice, which is very different than waterfall ice. Horizontal front points can also be very useful when climbing verglas.
Have fun.
Oh, if you want to be an ice climber, get out of LA.
|
|
Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2014 - 06:48am PT
|
Look up Tami's comparison of cavers and ice climbers...
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2014 - 06:52am PT
|
Couple basic tips
Most decent rock climbers pick up water ice climbing very easily. Having a hold pretty much anywhere you choose. What takes a little more time is becoming efficient, Reading the ice, Not getting picks overdriven, not banging knuckles, a relaxed foot angle. Even the steepest higher grade water ice climbs often feel more like just strenuous 5.6.
Leading is where a confident rock climber can get in trouble. Ice pro usually takes much longer to place than what you are used too. The ice is so easy you can forget to place pro before you get tired and need it. You get way above your pro fast. When you get tired and it takes even longer to place, bad situation. Most scared Ive been a couple times on lead anywhere was that scenario. Thinking I would melt off and take a big one before I could hang.
Its the reason so many ice climbers solo. The time it would take to place the pro you could have just gone another 30 feet maybe. Three or four pieces in a pitch equals 100feet of time wasted. Plus most of the time you are far enough above pro you don't want to fall anyway. Sometimes it's just as safe to ignore the pro.
|
|
Tfish
Trad climber
La Crescenta, CA
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2014 - 07:24am PT
|
30 mins from LA
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!